Insulating an attic roof from the inside, how to avoid mistakes. How to insulate an attic floor for winter living: do it yourself How to properly and how to insulate an attic roof

Internal insulation of an attic is one of the most difficult construction tasks. And all because the result is important here: how the roofing pie will behave in winter, whether there will be any leaks, whether there will be a smell of dampness, and whether it will all have to be dismantled later. Why such difficulties? The fact is that no matter how carefully the budget for building a house is planned, as a rule, it is still not enough for everything. To the point that even the owners of the future family home decide to buy laminate flooring cheaper - just to finish the repairs and just start living. And the most popular expense item, which is immediately cut as soon as the lack of funds becomes clear, is attic insulation. “Later, in the future,” the owners promise themselves, especially since insulating the attic from the inside is not a problem at all, and you can start it at any time, even in winter.

In fact, there are a lot of subtleties and nuances here, and therefore, if you have already taken up this matter, carefully study this article. And everything will work out!

Why do problems arise?

There are statistics: up to 30% of attics have to be remodeled after the first winter. The roof covering, interior trim and films are removed, and the insulation is dried. In this case, a lot of materials have to be thrown away, and this is another unplanned expense. Even if you hired a professional team of builders, this is not a guarantee of the well-being of the future attic, especially if the roofing cake is thought out without taking into account the peculiarities of the local climate.

Why is this happening? So, in Russia there is dampness, cold and 24-hour negative temperatures- Not unusual. And the lower the ambient temperature, the greater the volume of steam that penetrates through the vapor barrier - all due to an increase in the partial pressure difference. And at the same time, the migration of moisture through the cold membrane slows down significantly, although it does not stop. Bottom line: the situation is even worse than under standard tested conditions. And therefore, you cannot test the vapor permeability of a roofing pie in European conditions and expect the same good result in the Siberian regions.

Here's a simple illustration to help you understand what we're talking about here:

Note that the maximum water vapor pressure on the roofing pie is in the residential attic. And it’s not even that there are people in such a room much more often than in an ordinary cold attic - it’s just that the pressure of warm air is additionally added to the steam pressure. Moreover, these processes are so obvious that they can be observed in the form of real leaks!

The fact is that wet insulation loses its properties very quickly. And the more humid the air that reaches it, the faster the thermal insulation decreases. For example, basalt insulation with a humidity of only 5% already loses its heat by 20% than dry insulation.

For example, just one cubic meter airspace, if it relative humidity is 100%, at a temperature of 20C contains 17.3 grams of water - simply in the form of steam. And the lower the temperature, the more difficult it is for air to hold water in a bound state. And when the temperature drops to 16C, there will be only 13.6 grams of water vapor in the same air, and the rest will settle as water in the insulation. Let us conclude: moisture in the insulation appears due to the condensation of excess water vapor from the air as the temperature decreases. And it must be actively fought. And this is far from the only problem - now we will deal with them all.

Let's start insulation - work technology

Let's start with the first problem - insufficient thickness of the joists if you insulate the attic after the construction of the entire house and installation of the roofing. Why is that? Let's take a closer look at this issue.

Thus, attic insulation can be divided into basic and additional. Basic is insulation, which is carried out during the construction of the roof of the house and involves the use of lightweight insulation directly into the rafter structure. And here additional insulation is already turning an uninhabited attic into a full-fledged attic.

With basic insulation the main task– to minimize the heat loss of the house through the roof, and such basic insulation may well replace additional internal insulation, if only you choose the insulation wisely, do not skimp on its thickness and think through the rafter system well. That's what those builders often do own home who understand that 20 rooms may not be enough in the future, and additional space for a billiard room, library or sauna cannot be a problem. And therefore, it is better to initially build it completely residential, and not finish something later.

But, if during the construction of your house you decided to make do with basic thermal insulation and now you have enthusiastically taken up the task of arranging your living and cozy attic, then the only option for you is additional internal insulation with all its nuances, the main one of which is the insufficient thickness of the rafters, which were not originally designed for dense internal insulation. But the problem is completely solvable, as proof of which we have prepared for you detailed master class:

Now let’s move on to more insidious aspects that are no less important: proper vapor barrier and waterproofing, which you may have to redo.

No - dampness and smudges!

For any insulation it is extremely important to create the right conditions, otherwise the material will quickly become damp and instead of a source of heat it will become a source of dampness, mold and cold. What are these conditions? Let's take a closer look!

What is dew point?

The first and most important quality of any insulation is low thermal conductivity. Thanks to it, the insulating layer rigidly separates warm air inside from the cold outside. It would seem that they inserted insulation into the rafters, secured it - and that’s all that else is needed? Not so!

Firstly, from the outside, the whole thing must be carefully waterproofed from rain and damp air, because... In this regard, such a roofing pie is a real sponge. Secondly, any insulation also has a second quality - vapor permeability, i.e. "breathes". Now let’s remember physics: the warm, humid air inside the room under the roof (always humid!), without finding an obstacle, easily passes inside the insulation and collides with its colder part, the one that is closer to the roofing pie. And there this air condenses, settling in the form of droplets, which is called the dew point. What's the point of external waterproofing then? Mineral wool insulation is especially susceptible to this phenomenon, note.

Therefore, our first task is to ensure that as little steam as possible passes through the insulation, because even super-diffuse membranes in the cold do a poor job of removing water vapor, due to a significant slowdown in moisture transfer processes. And this is a question of proper vapor barrier of the attic insulation.

Here clear example, to which unpleasant consequences leads to ignoring the concept of dew point:

Vapor barrier: warm European winters and Russian frosts

In fact, in Western Europe, where winters have always been mild, there is no need for vapor barriers with special properties - simple packaging films are quite suitable. So they sometimes end up in Russia, although their vapor barrier properties are not high. These are LDPE roll films, which stands for “low density polyethylene”. In such films, uneven thickness and microdefects are noticeable. Their main purpose is product packaging.

Little better are reinforced materials, which are made by hot pressing a film onto a mesh of twisted thread. In production, such films are injured by mesh nodes, and as a result, the low vapor barrier properties are further reduced. Although the film itself turns out to be much stronger than usual, of course.

More reliable are bag fabrics made from polypropylene threads and spunbonds. The former are additionally laminated with molten PEPN, but a uniform and continuous film is still not obtained, although the strength is pleasing. And the latter are made from non-woven polypropylene fiber, but its vapor permeability is still in the range of 15-25 g/m2 per day, and this is a very low figure.

And it boasts the best vapor barrier properties aluminium foil, which is suitable even for arranging steam rooms in which the pressure and volume of water vapor are the highest. The only point: such a vapor barrier additionally creates the effect of a thermos in the attic, simultaneously reflecting invisible heat rays back into the room. That’s why it’s better not to insulate a small attic room this way, but for a spacious one it’s just the same.

Therefore, if you want to save heat as much as possible, or in the attic you plan to make good sauna, then you need this vapor barrier:

Or immediately purchase insulation with an aluminum side:

We close access to water vapor

But remember that it is still important to properly lay and waterproof a good vapor barrier film, otherwise water vapor will still find its way in.

The joints of vapor barrier sheets are usually sealed with a special adhesive tape made of butyl rubber, but even in this case complete tightness cannot be guaranteed. The thing is that over time, the adhesion of the sticky layer decreases, and with additional load the canvases come unglued. That's why when installing exterior finishing, when it is possible to attach the same drywall directly to a vapor barrier, many people install additional sheathing. Its task is not so much to ensure that the finish is fixed more evenly (which is also important), but rather to press the tape or sealant with the slats.

In addition, this lathing (usually with slats up to 3 cm thick) additionally allows for installation electrical wires directly under the sheathing, and not through the insulation, as many do and which can hardly be called a technically competent solution.

But the places where the vapor barrier adjoins the passing pipes and brick walls must be insulated with special sealants or tapes.

Another important point: never tighten the vapor barrier - fasten it with a small margin. The fact is that all wooden structures, which is rafter system, naturally dry out and become slightly smaller in size. The frame itself becomes mobile, and there is a risk of ruptures under the roof outside and under the sheathing inside. And then - surprise!

Does external waterproofing “breathe”?

So, on the warm inner side of the insulation we install a vapor barrier, which does not allow moist air to enter from the room. And on the outer, colder side we are already attaching waterproofing, which will protect the insulation under the roofing pie from external accidental leaks of melt water or rain.

And the further development of events depends on how “breathable” the top waterproofing film turns out to be. So, if you purchased the most ordinary roll of inexpensive waterproofing, things are bad, the moisture from the roofing cake will evaporate for a long time and difficultly, as a result - dampness and gradual destruction of the insulation. But modern vapor-permeable membranes are called “smart” for a reason: they do not let moisture in, but remove water vapor out. It's all about their unusual, well-thought-out structure. This is why it turns out that when using cheap barrier films, even expensive insulation does not last long, and repairs are not far off.

Please note that the diffuse membrane should fit as tightly as possible to the insulation, without any gap, like with a regular film. Otherwise, the membrane material will cool more strongly, and the temperature will become lower than the steam migrating through the insulation. You will see the result in the form of ice directly on the membrane, which will cause it to lose its vapor-permeable properties even more.

When do you have to dismantle the roof?

Quite often during the construction process, roofing material or reinforced films are installed as roof waterproofing. And a couple of years later, when the attic turned out to be very necessary and everyone at home enthusiastically began to repair it, it turns out that without full analysis the roof won't work anymore.

What's the matter? The fact is that such waterproofing does not “breathe” at all, and any insulation under it will completely bend. That’s why, if the roof of your house is still under construction, but you are thinking about putting off insulating the attic for the future, immediately use a good super-diffuse membrane as waterproofing.

But how can something get into the insulation if we have already installed a vapor barrier? The fact is that not a single film in the world is capable of retaining water vapor 100% - they are very small. And no matter how hard manufacturers try, there is no absolute barrier. And even more: modern vapor barrier films actually don’t even do their job halfway, and only the highest quality ones are capable of retaining steam by 75-80%. Everything else, unfortunately, penetrates inside the roofing pie.

Let's sum it up ogi. You should end up with a roofing pie with two films that have absolutely opposite properties: the inner one does not let steam into the insulation, and the second one saves it from a small amount that accidentally gets there.

Insulation of complex structural elements

If you have decided on insulation and insulation materials, congratulations! Prepare everything carefully, calculate everything you need and feel free to proceed. Main, installation work Exercise only in a well-ventilated area. And finally, when working with modern insulation materials, many manufacturers advise using a vacuum cleaner before insulating the attic roof from the inside, and after it is finished.

Insulating pitched and straight attic walls is not difficult, and the first difficulty you will encounter is windows and other complex structural elements. It is also important to properly insulate them, leaving no chance for moisture or water vapor to leak through. Do you know what are usually the most problematic places in attic rooms that cause mold and smudges? So take this issue seriously:

Here is another tricky moment when the attic ceiling is not made of logs, but a solid slab. You need to insulate it like this:

And finally, after insulating the attic, make sure that snow does not accumulate later in the drains and on the ridge - the entrance and exit of the movement of under-roof air. To do this, it is more rational to install ventilation pipes along the entire roof ridge, and make the ridge itself unventilated. That's all the difficulties!

Insulation of the attic roof is one of the key stages in creating a reliable roofing pie, which is designed for long term operation. To provide comfortable conditions For year-round living in the attic floor of a house, it is important to choose high-quality insulation and install it correctly.

Functional features of the thermal insulation layer of the roof

Properly executed insulation of the roof structure from the inside makes it possible to provide a favorable microclimate in attic room. During the cold season, heat will be effectively retained there, and in hot weather, thermal insulation will not allow the air in the rooms under the attic roof to overheat. To create effective roof insulation, you need to understand the intricacies of roofing installation technology and use high-quality materials and tools.

Insulation of mansard-type roofs is carried out according to the same principles as the insulation of ordinary roofing structures, but increased requirements are imposed on mansard roofs. This is due to the design features of attic rooms, the walls of which are either formed by the roof slopes and gables of the house, or are closely adjacent to the slopes. For this reason, the air in attics gets very hot in the summer heat and cools down quickly in winter.

The multi-layer mansard roof pie consists of the following components (from the inner layer to the outer):

vapor barrier layer;
insulation;
clearance for ventilation;
waterproofing;
roofing material.

The presence of all layers is mandatory, since each of them performs a strictly defined function. Ventilation and the thermal insulation layer of the roofing pie require increased attention, since the level of comfort when living in the attic floor of the house depends on their quality performance.

When choosing insulation, you need to pay attention to such an indicator of the material as thermal conductivity. It characterizes the ability of a material to transfer heat into or out of a room. The lower this indicator, the better the material protects against heat loss, therefore, the smaller the insulation layer can be used to achieve the necessary thermal insulation characteristics of the roof.

In a heated room, the greatest heat loss occurs through the roof, since, in accordance with the laws of physics, warm air rises. Heat penetrates through the roofing pie and is transferred finishing coating, which is covered with a layer of snow in winter. Snow has a porous structure, and due to internal air pockets, it acts as an external heat insulator at air temperatures below -2 degrees.

If the heat loss of a house through the roof is large, the roofing material heats up, causing the snow to melt. When the air temperature drops, melted snow forms an ice crust. This is dangerous for the roof covering, since when water freezes it has a negative effect on the outer surface of the roof. Ice, unlike snow, is not a heat insulator; in addition, it is denser in structure - the ice crust on the roof significantly increases the load on the structure. If the insulation from the inside is done correctly, the snow on the roof will not melt in winter.

During the hot summer period, excess heat is transferred from the roof into the room. The air can overheat so much that even air conditioners will find it difficult to maintain a normal microclimate in the attic floor. Installing a reliable thermal insulation layer from inside the roof will avoid such problems. Of course, the air in the attic will be heated more than in the rooms on the first floor, but the difference will not become uncomfortable.

Features of attic roof ventilation

Insulating an attic roof requires a special approach. This is due to its design features. If we compare the structure of an ordinary roof and an attic one, it is obvious that the main difference is the size of the ventilation space between the living spaces and the roof. Ventilation of a conventional roof is ensured by the presence of an attic with dormer windows. The ventilation space of the attic roof is very limited - it is only about 10-15 centimeters.

Proper ventilation is extremely important when arranging the roofing pie of an attic roof. The ventilation gap between the waterproofing and insulation helps remove excess moisture from under the roof, protecting the entire structure and extending its service life. In winter, ventilation prevents the roof from overheating and the formation of an ice crust on it. In hot weather, ventilation removes some of the heat from under the roof, thereby avoiding overheating of the air in the attic floor and the structural elements of the roof.

Choice of insulation

At the stage of preparation for installation of the roofing pie, you should decide on the choice of material for insulation. The number of layers and thickness of thermal insulation depends on the correctly selected type and technical characteristics. The modern construction market offers a wide range of materials for insulating roof structures. Among the most popular are:

polyurethane foam;
extruded polystyrene foam;
glass wool;
mineral wool.

Foam glass can also be used, different kinds natural insulation for installation from the inside (wood shavings, seaweed, granulated paper, etc.).

There are four main criteria for choosing a thermal insulation material:

coefficient of thermal conductivity;
moisture resistance;
fire resistance;
environmental Safety.

Note! To insulate a mansard-type roof, it is recommended to use a material whose thermal conductivity coefficient is from 0.05 W/m*K and below.

The higher the moisture resistance of the insulation, the longer it will retain its functional qualities. Fire resistance is an important criterion for ensuring home safety. It is also important to consider the environmental friendliness of the material and its safety for humans. But the last two parameters do not affect the durability and efficiency of roof insulation.

Mineral wool is insulation made from molten rocks. The material retains heat well, does not rot, is resistant to temperature changes and aggressive environments, and practically does not absorb moisture. Mats of various thicknesses made of mineral wool are especially convenient to use for roof insulation if the pitch of the rafters corresponds to the width of the mat.

Glass wool is made from molten glass; in its properties, this type of insulation is close to mineral wool, but has a lower thermal threshold of -450°C. It has good heat and sound insulating characteristics. Glass wool is frost resistant. Moisture can accumulate between the fibers of glass wool, so waterproofing must be done correctly.

Mineral wool and glass wool allow you to insulate the roof with minimal financial investment. The disadvantages include the need to create a thick layer of insulation and several layers of vapor and waterproofing.

The roof structure can be insulated from the inside using polymer materials - polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam. The advantages of polyurethane foam (gas-filled plastic) include high ability to retain heat, lightness, and durability. Polyurethane foam does not allow steam to pass through and is not affected by moisture. Extruded polystyrene foam allows you to effectively insulate the roof - its thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.05 W/m*K. The material is hydrophobic and does not allow steam to pass through. Flammability class from G1 to G4, depending on the type of material. The disadvantages of polymer insulation include their artificial origin and relatively high cost.

If you have a goal to build a house exclusively from environmentally friendly materials, you can insulate the roof with natural heat insulators. Despite good thermal conductivity and environmental friendliness, various types of natural insulation materials have their drawbacks. Foam glass is highly fragile. Granulated paper, as well as mats made of reeds, straw, seaweed and similar materials are highly flammable and require special skills when installing.

Insulation installation technology

To understand how best to install thermal insulation when installing a roofing pie, you need to familiarize yourself with the step-by-step instructions for carrying out the work in advance. In general, insulating the roof of a house comes down to the following steps::

preparing space for installing insulation;
laying a thermal insulation layer;
fixation of material.

At the project preparation stage truss structure it is necessary to determine the step with which the rafters will be installed. It is necessary to take into account that the rafter system must be reliable, that is, the pitch should not exceed the recommended values. If the type of insulation is chosen in advance, it is recommended to install the rafters in such a way that the mats or insulation boards fit tightly between them from the inside. This simplifies the insulation technology and minimizes waste of thermal insulation material.

Waterproofing is laid above the thermal insulation, between the sheathing and rafters. The material is overlapped, laying begins from the bottom edge of the slope. Then wooden counter-battens are installed - their thickness creates the required roof ventilation gap. The slats can be attached to the rafters with nails, but it is better to use self-tapping screws. Insulation is laid and attached to the prepared structure from the inside between the rafters.

A rafter leg made of metal or wood is a cold bridge, since its thermal conductivity coefficient is much worse than that of a heat insulator.

For this reason, when insulating an attic, you should not limit yourself to installing a heat insulator between the rafters - it is better to install a continuous heat-insulating layer on top of the already laid mats and rafters. For a continuous layer it is better to use thinner insulation. This method improves the quality of insulation. The disadvantages include the fact that in this case the rafters are hidden, and they are more difficult to use in the future for fastening other structural elements. To facilitate further work, you should correctly mark the location of the rafters.

A vapor-permeable film should be laid on top of the thermal insulation. Its use allows you to divert excess moisture. Then the prepared structure is secured with lathing. On final stage work in progress interior lining ceiling. Proper roof insulation allows all year round use attic floor as a living space in which a favorable microclimate is maintained.

Insulating an attic roof: how to insulate from the inside and what is better, video

Find out how to insulate mansard roof from the inside, and what type of insulation is better. Insulation technology, waterproofing and ventilation of the attic roof along with a training video

How to properly insulate an attic roof from the inside with your own hands

Many homeowners are tempted to furnish their home with a comfortable residential attic. Such a desire is natural; this is a wonderful opportunity to increase the area and living space of your home. In addition, this gives the building a special charm and introduces a certain amount of romanticism into its appearance.

Special skylights enhance the impression. Today, most new private housing is immediately built with an attic. But often, wanting to increase household ownership, and in not new houses, owners equip and insulate old uninhabited attics.

The attics are located almost under the roof itself. What requirements are usually placed on them? It is important that it is cool enough in summer and dry and warm in winter. In order for a room to meet the specified requirements, it is important to know what processes take place in it and to understand the essence of proper insulation.

Produce everything necessary work with my own hands not difficult, their technology is quite simple. The main thing for this is a conscientious partner and the presence necessary tools. If everything is done technologically correctly, the wooden rafters will not get wet or rot, and the thermal insulation material will serve for a long time and reliably.

Attic: why do you need roof insulation?

Housing under a roof is a special room. Its walls are closely adjacent to the roof surface, while the ventilation gaps are only 10-15 cm in size. This is associated with characteristic feature premises - it instantly cools down in winter, and literally heats up before our eyes in summer. In winter, such valuable heat for housing escapes through the roof, but in summer, on the contrary, it heats up greatly, noticeably increasing the temperature of the room.

The processes taking place depend on the quality of ventilation, as well as the thermal conductivity of the materials used for manufacturing.

In the summer it becomes hot, heating the entire structure, causing the air in the room to become very hot. If the building has a familiar cold attic, then everything happens differently.

The function of a heat insulator in such housing is performed by the air in the attic and the snow on its roof in winter.

The backfill materials on the floor, together with the air, retain the heat coming from below, from the dwelling.

Thanks to this, even in very frosty winters, the temperature in the attic stays around 0 degrees. The snow outside does not melt, being another, additional insulator. In summer, t is regulated by vents on the gables, which play the role of a kind of ventilation system. How to insulate an attic?

Attic insulation: materials

Choosing the optimally suitable material is a very important task. After all, a lot depends on its type - the thickness of the insulation “pie” itself, the number of minimum layers in it.

It has special requirements:

Low thermal conductivity. The best material is a material with a coefficient of no higher than 0.05 W/m*K.
Ease. The weight of the material matters; it should not overload the roof.
Low moisture permeability. If the roof suddenly leaks, it should not get wet and lose its qualities. Or it should be well insulated to avoid getting wet.
Fire resistance. It is extremely important that the material is non-flammable and does not support combustion.
Elasticity, shape retention. Due to their location, lightweight mineral-based materials can seem to slide off, leaving voids. That's why it's so important that it can maintain its shape.
Resistant to sudden temperature changes.
Strength and durability.

Of course, all these points are ideal, but this does not happen often.

Glass wool

This is perhaps the most good decision for insulating the attic roof from the inside. This is a plastic material that fits compactly between the rafters, covering all free space. Mineral wool does not support combustion and does not burn itself. It is extremely lightweight and has excellent insulating properties.

Basalt wool in slabs retains its shape remarkably. Its disadvantage is that it easily absorbs steam and water, and therefore requires additional hydro- and vapor barrier. This is very important: after all, if mineral wool gets wet, it will irreversibly lose more than half of its useful qualities. If this happens, you will have to change it.

Despite this drawback, this is one of the most suitable materials for insulating the roof from the inside. She is easy to work with, she has affordable price. Strict adherence to technological instructions when working with it eliminates possible disadvantages.

This is a very popular and in demand material. But the use of polystyrene foam for attic insulation should be considered in more detail.

The material has certain characteristics that can be considered virtually unique.

These are its extremely low thermal conductivity, minimal weight, low moisture permeability, and ideally rigid shape.

But along with these wonderful positive qualities, it also has obvious disadvantages. Different varieties materials have varying degrees of fire resistance. And for insulation, its flammable varieties are often used. And this is extremely dangerous. When a fire occurs, the fire rises, and if the insulation catches fire, it will be almost impossible to survive in such a flaming attic.

Expanded polystyrene is not very convenient for work; when cutting, cutting and installation, it crumbles quite a lot. When using it, gaps remain between the rafters, and they have to be sealed somehow. Over time, it collapses and begins to crumble even more. Based on all of the above, we can conclude that using polystyrene foam in this case is not very wise.

Extruded polystyrene foam

This is a wonderful material for insulating the attic from the outside, for laying under the roof, on the rafters. It is quite durable, retains its shape well, is not afraid of high humidity and, very importantly, does not burn. It deserves special attention that insulation requires a not very thick layer - 5-10 cm.

Polyurethane foam

This is a new generation material. By using special installation it is blown into the voids of the insulated material, leaving no gaps or holes. This spraying helps prevent the formation of cold bridges.

This material is not afraid of fire and water, it is light, durable, and holds its shape well. But it also has a minus - it has an extremely low vapor permeability rate: it almost does not breathe. Consequently, without the installation of forced ventilation, there will always be high humidity in the attic.

Perhaps this is one of the most suitable materials for insulation from the inside, and its use is actually an ideal option.

It, like the previous one, penetrates into the smallest holes, filling all the gaps.

It is also extremely light, not afraid of moisture, does not support combustion at all and “breathes” perfectly.

In addition, its fundamental difference from other materials is that it is completely harmless to health and absolutely environmentally friendly. Neither tiny particles, nor even the evaporation of ecowool can cause harm to health, unlike the same mineral wool.

Attic roof: how to insulate from the inside

When choosing the best way to insulate an attic roof, you should pay attention not only to the performance characteristics of the insulating material, but also to specific features its application. The most convenient way to insulate a room is from the inside: if there are no contraindications to it, and space allows.

Used for this Various types insulation - both mineral wool and extruded foam, blown in with ecowool or polyurethane foam. The key to the reliability and durability of materials is compliance with a competent combination, or “pie,” of roof insulation. This will also ensure comfortable living underneath, that is, in the attic.

Insulation pie – from the inside out

When using cotton wool materials for insulation, a vapor barrier film must be used. With its help, mineral wool will not be exposed to moisture coming from the living room with steam.

Regardless of the insulation chosen, waterproofing will be required in any case. Its purpose is to protect wooden parts roof structure. The role of waterproofing is played by special super-diffuse membranes, which have special qualities.

They can release steam outside, but at the same time keep moisture out. A gap must be left between the roof and the waterproofing membrane for ventilation. Its size can vary from 4 cm to 10, depending on the material and type of roof. Through it, excess steam will be removed from the insulation.

Attic: roof insulation from outside

It is more convenient to do this while construction is still underway. If it is already completed, you will have to remove the roofing material. External method roof insulation keeps all available living space safe and sound. The solutions of some designers also suggest using roof rafters as decorative elements interior

Technology

For external insulation, only slab material with high density is used.

These include Penoplex (extruded polystyrene foam).

It is not afraid of moisture, and it does not need a vapor barrier. The “pie” for external insulation with polystyrene foam looks like this:

Extruded polystyrene foam in slabs;
Waterproofing membrane;
The gap with the sheathing is ventilation;
Roofing material.

An obvious advantage of such insulation is free access to the rafters at any time, facilitating their inspection and even repair. The method of insulation with Penoplex over rafters is distinguished by the fact that it allows you to install a complete thermal insulation protective layer, preventing the creation of cold bridges.

If a special system is used for insulation curtain façade, glass wool with waterproofing and vapor barrier films can be used as insulation. And under the planned wet facade You can successfully lay regular foam plastic. The main thing to achieve success is strict adherence to technology.

How to properly insulate an attic roof from the inside with your own hands

How to insulate an attic roof with your own hands? Methods of insulation from the inside and outside. Let's choose insulation: polystyrene foam, mineral wool, etc. Roof insulation =>

Insulation of the attic roof

If the attic space remains uninhabited, the air in the under-roof space serves as good thermal insulation (along with insulation of the ceiling). In the case of the attic, everything is completely different: here the thermal insulation is very close to the roofing material and the task is not only to insulate the attic, but also to create such conditions that the entire roofing system will serve for a long time.

Insulation of a sloping mansard roof must be carried out according to certain rules

Let us say right away that all wood that is used in the construction of the roof must be treated with antiseptics. Indeed, everything: battens and counter-battens, and rafters. All wooden parts. It is also necessary to make them less flammable. To do this, they are treated with fire retardants. All elements located on the street side are treated with compounds for exterior work. Treat all wooden parts facing indoors with impregnations for interior work. If you use a composition for outdoor use indoors, the specific smell will remain for several years. If it’s the other way around, the wood on the outside may be damaged: the degree of protection is insufficient. Therefore, do not save on this matter.

More. Before describing how to insulate an attic roof with your own hands, it is worth recalling this: a ventilation system must be organized in the under-roof space. For this purpose, special ventilation holes. Through them, air escapes from under the roofing material, carrying away excess moisture. And it must get under the roof deck through the overhangs. There is absolutely no way to do everything hermetically. This is where the air intake comes from. This is the only way the condensate will dry out in a timely manner and the roof will last a long time.

In order for the insulation to be correct and moisture to be removed in a timely manner, it is necessary to move air masses under the roofing material

Proper insulation of the attic

To keep the attic floor warm in winter and cool in summer, there were no problems with high humidity icicles did not freeze on the roof, it is necessary to properly insulate the roof. But in the case of a roof, insulation, steam and waterproofing are comprehensive solution and one without the other works very poorly, or does not work at all.

If the sloping roof is also the walls of the attic floor, the pie will be as follows (from inside to outside):

internal cladding (plasterboard or lining);
sheathing;
vapor barrier;
insulation (the thickness of the insulation depends on the region and parameters of the insulation, for middle zone Russia is about 200 mm);
superdiffusion membrane;
ventilation gap;
sheathing;
roofing covering.

How to insulate an attic roof: the sequence of layers of broken roofing for a living space

The photo shows the insulation of a sloping attic roof in a graphical version. Please note: a superdiffusion membrane is placed above the insulation (indicated blue). Its purpose is to prevent formed condensation or precipitation seeping through the roofing from entering the insulation and to remove the steam that did get into the mineral wool, ensuring its drying. Therefore, with vapor permeability from 1500 g/m2. This layer is often called waterproofing (that’s what it actually is), only the waterproofing is vapor-permeable.

Laying waterproofing

Ideally, it is laid exactly as shown in the figure: wrapping the rafters and laying closely on the insulation. Often, to save money, it is rolled out over the rafters, but not by pulling it, but by making a sag of 3-5 cm. This option also works well: moisture gets to the surface, and then rolls down and is removed outside the roof. Here is another important point: the membrane must extend into the drainage gutter. Then moisture will be removed from the under-roof space.

You can lay the waterproofing this way: with a slight sag, but definitely NOT pulling it

A few more points on laying the membrane. It rolls out across the rafters, starting from the bottom. The first row runs into the gutter. The next one rolls out with an overlap of 10-15 cm. And so on until the ridge. At the ridge, the membranes on both sides are cut along the upper edge and secured. A strip rolls along the ridge, going down from one side and the other of the roof. This creates a coating along which water flows all the way to the drainage gutter.

Vapor barrier and rules for its installation

It is worth talking separately about vapor barrier. This should also be a membrane. Polyethylene or polypropylene film will not work: its characteristics are not the same. The vapor permeability of this layer (expressed in g/m2) should be minimal. Ideally, it is equal to zero. That is, this layer should not allow vapors to pass from the room into the insulation layer. When using mineral wool as insulation, this is very important: when it gets wet, it loses more than half of its properties, and when it freezes in a wet state and then melts, it completely crumbles into dust.

Therefore, the vapor barrier film is also laid with one panel overlapping the other. Moreover, these joints are glued with special double-sided vapor-impermeable tape (it looks like adhesive rubber). An ordinary painter's or stationery tool will not work. They do not provide 100% steam protection. In addition to the joints, all junctions are also glued: from below, from the sides, from above.

There is a line marked on the vapor barrier. It marks the border from which the next layer begins (this is the amount of overlap) and the line along which the canvases are fastened with tape

The vapor barrier is usually attached to the joists using staplers or, as in the figure, with internal sheathing slats for installation of the sheathing. In this case, another ventilation gap is formed, which will dry out the finish and membrane. This gap is desirable, but not required. In principle, the lining can be mounted directly on top of the membrane.

Thermal insulation

How best to insulate a sloping roof is a complex question and there is no clear answer to it. Mineral wool is used, only hard, with a density of 30-50 kg/m3. Since the attic roof usually has a large angle of inclination, then soft materials may slip. It is for this reason that it is better to take slabs. Although in this case you will have to adjust the pitch of the rafters to the size of the insulation: it should be 10-15 mm less than the width of the slab so that the material fits between the beams and holds well.

Thermal insulation must be laid so that there are as few cold bridges as possible. For central Russia, 200-250 mm of mineral wool is usually required. These are several layers of mats. When laying between rafters, the slabs are positioned so that the seams of one row overlap the next. The width of the insulation, as already mentioned, should be slightly wider than the distance between the rafters. Then the slab becomes tight, eliminating the presence of cracks. If the width is larger/smaller, you have to cut the material. In this case, the chance of getting a smooth edge is small and there are a lot of residues left.

If the dimensions of the rafters do not allow laying all the insulation, planks of the required thickness are stuffed across the side of the room. The remaining insulation is placed between them. A vapor barrier and, if necessary, lathing for finishing are already attached to the top. This option is even better: cold bridges are completely eliminated, even covering the rafters. This method requires slightly higher installation costs, but the attic will definitely be warmer, which will reduce heating costs.

How to insulate an attic roof: work order

The good thing about the attic floor is that it allows the completion of construction to be extended. It is immediately necessary to lay and secure the superdiffusion membrane on the rafters, along with the sheathing and roofing material. And insulating the attic can be done from the inside after some time.

But please note: the waterproofing layer must be installed together with the roofing. This is the main mistake of many developers: they do not install this membrane. As a result, it is either necessary to remove the roof and lay it, or to invent systems to correct this deficiency. The whole problem is that in this case there is no cheap solution that guarantees the normal condition of the materials.

We insulate from the outside

If you do everything at once, the order of work is as follows:

on the side of the room, a sheathing is placed across the rafters - thermal insulation will lie on it; instead of the sheathing, sometimes a cord or galvanized wire is attached;
Thermal insulation material is laid on it from the roof side (according to all the rules, moving the seams, making sure that there are no cracks);
a superdiffusion membrane is rolled out over the thermal insulation;
the sheathing is stuffed;
roof covering is laid;
on the side of the room, a vapor barrier is fixed and glued;
with or without lathing, the finishing is installed.

Insulation of an attic roof from the outside: the work is not difficult, the thermal insulation is laid on the sheathing lined at the bottom

With this option, working with insulation is not difficult: it is easy to lay, it rests on the sheathing (laces).

Insulation from the inside

This option allows you to postpone the interior finishing for the required period (useful if there is a shortage of funds). After installing the rafter system, here is what you need to do:

roll out and secure the waterproofing;
fill the sheathing (if necessary, counter-lattice);
install roofing material.

For the first stage, this is all the necessary work. Once you are able to continue, you will need to insulate the attic roof from the inside. It will no longer be so convenient to work: you will have to make an enclosing structure that will prevent the insulation from being pushed out higher than necessary. The cotton wool itself will have to be fixed somehow: it tends to fall on your head. The order of work is as follows:

Between the lags, in increments of 40-50 cm, you stuff strips that will hold the thermal insulation, providing the required ventilation gap;
thermal insulation of the required thickness is laid and secured (the rules remain the same);
a sheathing is nailed in to hold the insulation layers in place;
a vapor barrier membrane is laid and glued;
The sheathing and finishing material are installed.

If you use slabs, then insulating the attic from the inside is also easy

A few notes on how thermal insulation material can be laid. If these are mats made of high-density mineral wool and their width is slightly larger than the pitch between the joists, everything is relatively simple: they themselves hold up well.

If rolled mineral wool is installed, everything is more complicated. When insulating the attic roof from the inside, it is laid from bottom to top. Take the lace construction stapler. Roll out the cotton wool, press it against the slats, fasten a piece of lace with staples, drawing the letter Z. This is how you secure the first layer, followed by the second and all subsequent ones.

In general, if you want the attic roof to be warm, it is better to use mineral wool mats of the required density of 30-50 kg/m3. They are tough enough to hold their shape well. Softer rolled materials on vertical surfaces or with a large slope cake, settling down, and the thermal insulation of the attic roof deteriorates.

These are the consequences of laying rolled mineral wool of insufficient density

What is the best way to insulate an attic roof?

As mentioned above, the most popular material for insulating an attic roof is mineral wool. She is good, but not at all ideal: she is afraid of moisture. That is why it requires such careful protection from all sides so that it retains its properties.

Foam plastic (expanded polystyrene)

The roof is sheathed with foam plastic or extruded polystyrene foam - EPS. Polystyrene foam (grades PSB-S-25, PSB-S-35) has good characteristics, but when burned it emits harmful substances, although there are self-extinguishing brands (with special additives). It is better to use them for roof insulation.

The main advantage of polystyrene foam: low price. It is easy to install: it is placed between the rafters, all joints are sealed with polyurethane foam. It’s convenient to insulate the attic from the inside with polystyrene foam: just order the slabs the right size- 10-15 mm more than the clearance between the rafters - and place them tightly. Due to their elasticity, they hold up very well.

A ventilation gap is also left on the roof side and waterproofing is installed. But she protects more wooden structure, since polystyrene foam is not afraid of moisture, it practically does not absorb it, and does not conduct steam. This is where the main drawback lies. Since the material does not allow steam to pass through, it is necessary in the attic good system ventilation, and this is an additional cost.

EPS has best characteristics: under equal conditions, its thickness is two times less than mineral wool of the specified density and one and a half times less than that of foam plastic. It also has a locking system that reduces the risk of gaps through which heat can escape. Another plus: extruded polystyrene foam is not liked by mice and insects; fungi and mold do not grow on it. What limits its use: a respectable price. You also need a ventilation system.

EPS brands - Ekstrol, STIREKS, PENOPLEX, URSA XPS, Technoplex, PRIMAPLEX, Styrofoam, KINPLAST, Teploizolit, GREENPLEX. Although the technology is the same, there are some differences in characteristics, so compare when choosing.

Not long ago, a new type of insulation appeared: expanded polystyrene foam. It is applied in liquid form to the surface, reacting with air, increasing in size many times over, filling all the cracks and forming a monolithic layer. This is, perhaps, the only way today to correct the situation and efficiently insulate the attic if, when installing the roofing, they forgot to lay a layer of waterproofing.

This is the process of insulation with expanded polystyrene foam (left) and what happened as a result. Excess is trimmed to the level of the log

This insulation has good characteristics (thermal conductivity coefficient 0.036-0.040 W/m² °C), but has a special application technology. It is necessary to organize a closed cavity into which the composition will be poured. In case of mansard roof the side parts are rafters, nailed to them from below and above sheet material(Fibreboard, GVL, plywood, etc.).

A feeding sleeve is launched into the formed cavity, from which loosened cotton wool emerges under pressure. It fills all cavities, forming a single layer of insulation.

The process of insulating an attic roof with ecowool

The main advantage of ecowool compared to all the insulation materials described above: it conducts vapor. It can absorb moisture up to 20% of the volume and then release it. That is, there is no need to organize a vapor barrier: humidity is regulated naturally, as is the case with wood. The ventilation gap between the roof and the insulation should be the same, as should the properly organized movement of air masses in it.

Attic insulation: inside, outside, materials

It is always tempting to use attic space for living space. For comfortable conditions, it is necessary to insulate the attic room. It can be made from the inside and outside using different materials.

Insulation of attic roofs from the inside, instructions and video

Increasingly, happy owners of country or private housing are tempted by the opportunity to build a residential attic space in their home. Thanks to this, it becomes possible to expand the square footage of living space and add individuality to a standard building.

IN Lately Most suburban buildings are immediately built with an attic, but this does not mean that they do not have problems with insulation and through them, as through old attics, up to 30% of heat is still lost.

So that with the onset of winter cold the attic floor will be warm and cozy, and in the summer heat it will be cool and The roof structure has lasted quite a long time, you need to understand the features of insulation of such a room and the processes occurring in it.

Moreover, all the work can be done independently if you have an assistant and the necessary tools. The main thing is to follow all the rules and regulations for the insulation of such structures, and then the thermal insulation, like the entire roof, will last for many years without major repairs.

In what cases may attic insulation be needed?

The attic floor is a room of a special design, in which the walls practically merge into a single whole with the surface of the roof and the ventilation gap does not exceed 100–150 mm. Exactly because of this reason the room quickly cools down in winter and heats up in summer. The entire surface of the roof structure is, as it were, a heat accumulator in summer heat and through it the heat goes outside with the onset of cold weather. First of all, this is due to the level of thermal conductivity of the materials used to construct the roof.

In winter, heat flows from the batteries rise upward according to the laws of physics, being distributed under the roof vault and freely escaping to the street, since the materials from which a standard roof is made easily conduct heat.

In this case, the snow melts, which turning into ice, destroys the roof. In turn, in the summer heat the air in the attic becomes so hot that it becomes difficult to breathe. At the same time, even a very powerful air conditioner cannot cool such a room.

What to do in such a situation? There is only one answer - to properly insulate the attic space by choosing the right thermal insulation material, the parameters of its thickness and placement in the under-roof space, in compliance with the technological process.

For example, if the insulation is done with insufficiently thick material, selected by eye, then the problem will only be partially solved and the room will continue to be cool and uncomfortable. Only insulation that is correctly selected in terms of thickness and thermal conductivity will allow you to qualitatively isolate the attic from the roof structure, and during construction proper ventilation all excess moisture will be quickly and easily removed outside.

How to insulate attic roofs - criteria for choosing material for insulation

Selection of quality thermal insulation materials to insulate an attic space from the inside - a very responsible process. The thickness and multi-layer nature of the roofing cake will depend on the type of insulation and its main characteristics.

Due to the fact that the attic is a room of a specific design, the choice of insulation should be based on the requirements for it:

It is very important to correctly calculate the thickness of the insulation, which should be based on the characteristics of the construction region, the thickness of the walls of the house, the presence or absence of insulation, as well as the thickness of the roofing pie. All these parameters are of high importance and only based on them can you choose the right thickness of the insulating material. If you skip the calculation stage, then it is better to opt for mineral wool 25 cm thick.

What is the best way to insulate an attic from the inside?

For internal thermal insulation of the attic, you need to choose high-quality insulation based on the climatic characteristics of the region where the building is being built. Due to thermal technical features, each type of insulation has its own advantages and disadvantages, on which the popularity of the material is based:

The technology for installing a thermal insulation layer in the under-roof space of a roof with your own hands involves the use of either mineral basalt insulation or expanded polystyrene slabs. Such materials are easy to work with and have high quality technical characteristics. Often a combination of roll material is used and insulation in slabs. Mineral wool is laid between the roof rafters, and polystyrene foam boards are mounted on top of it.

Insulating “pie” for thermal insulation of the attic

Only by observing correct sequence an insulating “pie” from the inside of the attic roof, you can achieve comfort and coziness in the room at any time of the year. Moreover, this design has the following layers:

The vapor barrier layer is mandatory requirement for laying cotton insulation. Thanks to this, you can effectively protect mineral wool from steam and condensation. When using polyurethane foam, a vapor barrier is not required.

A waterproofing layer is needed in all situations and its use will depend high-quality protection of wooden elements of the roof structure. As waterproofing, it is advisable to use diffusion-type membranes, which freely allow vapor to pass out and do not allow moisture into the room.

There must be an air ventilation gap of at least 50 mm between the layers of heat insulation and waterproofing material. Its main purpose is to remove excess moisture from the insulation.

Insulation of the attic roof from the inside between the rafters

Process internal insulation installation of a mansard roof should begin at the construction stage of the building. This is the only way to check the correctness of the layers of the roofing “pie”. In this case, it is advisable to make it yourself detailed diagram attic space and mark on it the places to be insulated from the inside.

Very often the attic structure has a trimmed structure. Simply put, between the lower part of the roof slope and the interior decoration of the room there remains free space that does not need to be insulated. But in such a situation, it is important to insulate the ceiling along the very edge of the roof structure.

At this stage, all work on insulating the attic can be considered completed. But in order to fully understand the essence of the installation process, you can familiarize yourself with the video of insulating the roof of the attic floor. If you plan to insulate an attic in an old building, but do not want to dismantle the roof structure, then there is a little trick. The waterproofing layer is rolled out directly from the inside of the attic, wrapping the rafters and bringing the material into the space between them. But in such a situation it will not be possible to defend wooden beams in case of leakage of roofing material.

Construction of thermal insulation from the inside under the rafters

An attic roof, the insulation of which is carried out from the inside, when the thermal insulation is laid on top of the rafter structure, and not in the space between adjacent beams, turns out to be very warm. Thanks to this method, you can avoid cold bridges, which are played by wooden beams. With this method, the insulation will fit tightly to the bottom of the beams, and the resulting space will serve as additional ventilation. But it must be taken into account that in such a situation the usable area will be reduced on all sides by 300 mm. The installation process of insulating the attic from the inside is due to the following activities:

Do-it-yourself insulation of an attic roof is a fairly simple process and does not require high professionalism or expensive materials. Therefore, anyone can figure out how to insulate an attic, even if they have minor repair skills.

Insulating an attic roof: how and how to properly insulate an attic from the inside with your own hands, video

Features of insulating an attic roof with mineral wool with your own hands. Various ways insulation of roof structures on the attic floor.

Usually a house is built quickly, often everything is put under the roof during the summer season. After interior decoration you can move in, do landscaping local area and expanding the functionality of the home. In this article we will tell you how to insulate an attic from the inside if the roof is already covered. The information will help you decide on the choice of material - this often depends on the initial conditions, and will explain the subtleties of its correct use.

Insulation of an already covered roof has its own characteristics that you need to know about Source pinterest.com

After this, you will speak the same language with the builders. Which is a good incentive for them to offer and demonstrate their best and do the work even better.

General points

Let's start with the fact that the attic is a bit of a special room. Its overall structure requires a careful, meticulous approach. And the insulation of the attic roof is even more so:

Mostly you will have to insulate vertical or inclined surfaces. Therefore, it is better to immediately exclude all soft “pliable” materials, namely mineral wool rolls.

It is advisable to navigate for materials with low dead weight. Since the rafter system is already experiencing significant loads from wind and snow. In addition, the load on load-bearing walls will not increase much.

Insulation is often required gables. They are not always made by analogy with a main wall. May be made of facing material. Or the frame is simply built for insulation.

It happens that the attic area significantly larger than the size of the house itself, while part of it rests on columns. In this case, you will also have to insulate the ceiling in contact with the street.

If the attic floor protrudes beyond the house, additional insulation of the floor is required Source metasold.com

It should be understood that the thickness of the insulation must correspond to the weather conditions of a particular climate zone, while having a small reserve. To gain the required thickness, the insulation is installed in several layers, and the relatively small dimensions require joining.

Important: splicing any insulation requires a careful approach. The joints of different layers should not be concentrated in one place. To prevent freezing, they should be spaced as far apart as possible. It is important to constantly remember this so as not to spoil the material, especially when insulating a sloping roof.

Video description

We will dwell in more detail on insulating a house with polystyrene foam. Find out how safe polystyrene foam is in our video:

It happens that the width of the rafters does not allow for the required thickness of insulation. To continue you need additional frame. It is better to arrange it across, this will make the entire rafter system structurally even stronger. And insulation is more effective - additional insulation will cover the joints of the main insulation and rafters.

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer turnkey house insulation services. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

Preparation

All wooden surfaces must be treated with antiseptic and fire-retardant impregnations.

All wooden components must be treated with protective materials Source remontik.org

On structural elements you need to immediately identify “unreliable places”. For example, the connection of the outer rafter to a pediment made of facing bricks. Or an overlapping connection between a rafter and a screed, made without insulation. It is necessary to eliminate the shortcomings - if possible, foam them or line them with a sealant. Otherwise, they will not be able to withstand through blowing and freezing.

It is necessary to minimize the use of metal fasteners. This is especially true for metal linings secured with bolts. Of course, the bolted connections will remain, but the plates should be made from thick, durable plywood and replaced. The remaining metal parts are painted with primer-enamel and covered with a layer polyurethane foam. Metal directly in the insulation is a source of condensation and dampness.

Insulation of the rafter system

It’s great when the insulation of the attic from the inside was planned in advance, or “just in case” the constructive points for this were observed by the builders:

A roofing membrane is mounted on the rafters.

A counter-lattice is provided.

The pitch of the rafters is maintained corresponding to the common length or width of the insulation.

It is convenient to carry out insulation if it was planned at the construction stage Source bamban.ru

It is worth noting that these are ideal initial data, allowing you not to look for a “way out of the situation”, and to insulate the maximum volume of the attic with high quality without extra costs. Such conditions make it possible to use vapor-permeable insulation. And these are comfortable living conditions.

Insulation of an unprepared roof

When the decision to insulate is forced, the roof is usually not prepared. There is nothing terrible about this, it is even possible to choose the following options:

Insulate with materials that do not require waterproofing.

Build a special frame for living space.

In case of insulation of a roof that is not prepared for this, special compounds can help Source paspraypros.com

Foamed polyurethane foam can play a special role here. Although equipment is required for its application, insulation occurs in a continuous layer and does not depend on design features roofs.

Foamed polyurethane foam is one of them Source da.decorexpro.com

This also includes ecowool. Although its installation requires a roofing membrane, it is quite possible to make a continuous layer of insulation.

Video description

In our video we will look at how polystyrene foam is produced, is polystyrene foam harmful and where is it used?

Effective insulation

Stone wool

Due to their elasticity, the mats adhere well between the rafters and allow installation without additional fastening. A relatively dense structure stone wool prevents its shrinkage over time. Therefore, it has proven itself well on vertical surfaces.

Stone wool mats come in different thicknesses, and you can choose the one you need based on climatic conditions and other materials used Source pallazzo.su

To further reduce the risks, every 3 meters of height it is necessary to arrange supports for the insulation - add a horizontal frame element.

A commonly available popular material is penoplex. It is very effective as insulation. Its use is justified in areas of the country where it is not advisable to use mineral wool - a large thickness is needed, which significantly steals space, and the cost is prohibitive.

Under normal conditions, it saves significant space when every unit of volume is important:

It can be mounted between rafters of small width, and the insulation will be effective.

It does not require additional waterproofing, since it does not allow water to pass through. That is, the absence of a roofing membrane is not critical.

However, it is still desirable to have a ventilation gap with the roof to quickly remove condensate vapors. This way the rafters will last much longer, because they are not protected.

Extruded polystyrene foam does not require mandatory waterproofing Source pt.decorexpro.com

When insulating with penoplex, it would be useful to take measures to increase fire safety. For example, use open installation of electrical wiring, laying it out structurally, like design solution. The thing is that penoplex itself does not support combustion, but at high temperatures it melts very quickly.

Proper completion of work

The insulation has been installed, but the process must also be completed correctly. It must be protected from damp vapors from the room. For this, a vapor barrier film is installed. Moreover, the overall result greatly depends on the thoroughness of execution. Although each package is supplied with instructions, let us briefly repeat:

The subsequent canvas overlaps the previous one by at least 15 cm.

The joints are taped with special tape.

However, attic vapor barrier has a dual purpose. Oddly enough, it also protects the residents themselves. The fact is that vapor-permeable insulation is not strong enough and can be slightly weathered. From the outside this is not so important, plus it is protected by the roofing membrane. And inside it is necessary to exclude even the minimal possibility of the insulation components being released into the air - to reliably cover it.

The final stage is covering the insulation with canvases, on which the finishing is subsequently applied. Source obustroeno.com

Of course, this does not apply to Penoplex. But it is also recommended to protect against it; an effective material is penofol.

As for insulation of any type. In addition to the vapor barrier device, a technique that at first glance is unnecessary, but effective, is often used. Before finishing, intermediate, seemingly unnecessary material is installed. It can be OSB, GVL or GKL - it depends on the design. Moreover, the technology is fully observed - all joints are carefully sealed. This is an additional barrier against the unwanted effects of materials.

Video description

About insulating the attic from the inside in the video:

Results

It turns out that insulating a roof from the inside if the roof is already covered is quite possible to do efficiently. Moreover, not only having planned everything in advance, but also on a long-ready roof that was completely unsuitable for this. Now, knowing the intricacies of the process, it is much easier to choose a good performer for such an important task.

Such a desire is natural; this is a wonderful opportunity to increase the area and living space of your home. In addition, this gives the building a special charm and introduces a certain amount of romanticism into its appearance.

It is not difficult to do all the necessary work with your own hands; their technology is quite simple. The main thing for this is a conscientious partner and the availability of the necessary tools. If everything is done technologically correctly, they will not get wet or rot, but will serve for a long time and reliably.

Housing under a roof is a special room. Its walls are closely adjacent to the surface, while the gaps are only 10-15 cm in size. A characteristic feature of the room is connected with this - it instantly cools down in the winter, and literally heats up before our eyes in the summer. In winter, such valuable heat for housing escapes through the roof, but in summer, on the contrary, it heats up greatly, noticeably increasing the temperature of the room.

The processes taking place depend on the quality, as well as the thermal conductivity of the materials used for manufacturing.

In winter, the heat rising from the radiators spreads under the roof arch and then evaporates due to the heat transfer of the roofing materials. The snow lying on the roof begins to melt and, turning into ice, destroys its covering.

In the summer it becomes hot, heating the entire structure, causing the air in the room to become very hot. If the building has the usual cold attic, then everything happens differently.

The function of a heat insulator in such housing is performed by the air in the attic and the snow on its roof in winter.

Backfill materials, together with air, retain heat coming from below, from housing.

The room must be properly insulated: with carefully selected material, the required parameters, and in full compliance with the technology.

Attic insulation: materials

Choosing the optimally suitable material is a very important task. After all, a lot depends on its type - the thickness of the insulation “pie” itself, the number of minimum layers in it.

It has special requirements:

Low thermal conductivity. The best material is a material with a coefficient of no higher than 0.05 W/m*K.
Ease. The weight of the material matters; it should not overload the roof.
Low moisture permeability. If the roof suddenly leaks, it should not get wet and lose its qualities. Or it should be well insulated to avoid getting wet.
. It is extremely important that the material is non-flammable and does not support combustion.
Elasticity, shape retention. Due to their location, lightweight mineral-based materials can seem to slide off, leaving voids. That's why it's so important that it can maintain its shape.
Resistant to sudden temperature changes.
Strength and durability.

Of course, all these points are ideal, but this does not happen often.

In each specific case required thickness calculated strictly individually. If you select this indicator approximately, then most likely 25 cm will be enough.

Glass wool

This is perhaps the most successful solution for insulating the roof from the inside. This is a plastic material that fits compactly between the rafters, covering all free space. does not support combustion and does not burn itself. It is extremely lightweight and has excellent insulating properties.

Basalt wool in slabs retains its shape remarkably. Its disadvantage is that it easily absorbs steam and water, and therefore needs additional. This is very important: after all, if mineral wool gets wet, it will irrevocably lose more than half of its beneficial qualities. If this happens, you will have to change it.

Despite this drawback, this is one of the most suitable materials for insulating a roof from the inside. It's easy to work with and has an affordable price. Strict adherence to technological instructions when working with it eliminates possible disadvantages.

Styrofoam

This is a very popular and in demand material. But the use of attic insulation should be considered in more detail.

The material has certain characteristics that can be considered virtually unique.

These are its extremely low thermal conductivity, minimal weight, low moisture permeability, and ideally rigid shape.

But along with these wonderful positive qualities, it also has obvious disadvantages. Different types of material have different degrees of fire resistance. And for insulation, its flammable varieties are often used. And this is extremely dangerous. When a fire occurs, the fire rises, and if the insulation catches fire, it will be almost impossible to survive in such a flaming attic.

It is not very convenient for work, as it crumbles quite a lot when cutting, cutting and installation. When using it, gaps remain between the rafters, and they have to be sealed somehow. Over time, it collapses and begins to crumble even more. Based on all of the above, we can conclude that using polystyrene foam in this case is not very wise.

Extruded polystyrene foam

Polyurethane foam

This is a new generation material. Using a special installation, it is blown into the voids of the insulated material, leaving no gaps or holes. This spraying helps prevent the formation of cold bridges.

Ecowool

Perhaps this is one of the most suitable materials for insulation from the inside, and its use is actually an ideal option.

It, like the previous one, penetrates into the smallest holes, filling all the gaps.

It is also extremely light, not afraid of moisture, does not support combustion at all and “breathes” perfectly.

In addition, its fundamental difference from other materials is that it is completely harmless to health and absolutely environmentally friendly. Neither the smallest particles, nor even the evaporation of ecowool can cause damage, unlike the same mineral wool.

Attic roof: how to insulate from the inside

When choosing the best way to insulate an attic roof, you should pay attention not only to the performance characteristics of the insulating material, but also to the specific features of its application. The most convenient way to insulate a room is from the inside: if there are no contraindications to it, and space allows.

Various types of insulation are used for this - mineral wool, extruded foam, blown in ecowool or polyurethane foam. The key to the reliability and durability of materials is compliance with a competent combination, or “pie,” of roof insulation. This will also ensure comfortable living underneath, that is, in the attic.

Insulation pie – from the inside out

When using cotton wool materials for insulation, a vapor barrier film must be used. With its help, mineral wool will not be exposed to moisture coming from the living room with steam.

If glass wool is replaced with polyurethane foam or ecowool, there is no need for vapor barrier.

Regardless of the chosen insulation, it will be required in any case. Its purpose is to protect the wooden parts of the roof structure. The role of waterproofing is played by special super-diffuse membranes, which have special qualities.

They can release steam outside, but at the same time keep moisture out. A gap must be left between the roof and the waterproofing membrane for. Its size can vary from 4 cm to 10, depending on the material and type of roof. Through it, excess steam will be removed from the insulation.

Attic: roof insulation from outside

It is more convenient to do this while construction is still underway. If it is already completed, you will have to remove the roofing material. The external method of roof insulation keeps all available living space safe and sound. The solutions of some designers also suggest using roof rafters as decorative elements of the interior).

It is not afraid of moisture, and it does not need a vapor barrier. The “pie” for external insulation with polystyrene foam looks like this:

Extruded polystyrene foam in slabs;
Waterproofing membrane;
The gap with the sheathing is ventilation;
Roofing material.

An obvious advantage of such insulation– free access to the rafters at any time, facilitating their inspection and even repair. The method of insulation with Penoplex over rafters is distinguished by the fact that it allows you to install a complete thermal insulation protective layer, preventing the creation of cold bridges.

It is customary to insulate the front part of the attic together with the facade of the building, that is, from the outside. How to choose the right material for this? It depends on what was used to build the house and, of course, the preferences and desires of the owner.

If a special hinged system is used for insulation, glass wool with waterproofing and vapor barrier films can be used as insulation. And under the planned wet façade you can successfully lay a regular one. The main thing to achieve success is strict adherence to technology.

The attic is located under the roof of the house. The upper floors have greater contact with the external environment than the lower ones.

For this reason, heating in an uninsulated attic will become useless.

Without high-quality thermal insulation of the attic, icicles can form. They appear as a result of emanating heat flows from inside the house, which cause the snow on the roof to melt.

Placing an attic will eliminate the penetration of heat from outside and retain warm air in the house.

Roof insulation prevents condensation formation. The difference in temperature between the attic and the street suggests the appearance of water droplets. Without proper insulation, there is a possibility of mold.

The technology for insulating an attic roof is not as simple as it might seem at first glance, and this article will be a visual aid for those who do not know how to insulate an attic roof from the inside with their own hands. If you are planning, be sure to read the article at the link.

In this article you will learn how to insulate an attic roof for winter living and how to choose the right insulation.

Before you start insulating the attic roof of a private house, you need to choose a suitable insulation for these purposes. Each type has a different number of layers and thickness of thermal insulation. There are several types of roofing thermal insulation materials for insulating the roof of an attic floor:

Mineral wool. Certain rocks are used for its production. Among the advantages are increased fire resistance, good thermal insulation properties , maximum mildew resistance and rotting. The disadvantages are large mass and moisture permeability. Thermal insulation of an attic roof using mineral wool is not only cheap, but also practical. We talked about roof insulation with mineral wool in.
Glass wool. Now outdated, but still quite well-known type of material. To obtain it, glass must be melted. It has excellent thermal insulation properties. Does not absorb moisture, is not afraid of fire, insects and rotting. The disadvantages include the penetration of glass microparticles into the human lungs, which can cause serious harm health. After some time it may begin to crumble into small particles.
Polyurethane foam. Mainly consists of an inert gas phase. It is divided into two types - soft and hard. Very light, provides high-quality insulation heat and noise, not afraid of water. PPU is quite flammable. Read more.
Expanded polystyrene. It is polystyrene foam. Available in foamed or extruded form. Its raw material is polystyrene granules. pros- environmentally friendly material, lightweight, moisture-resistant, has good heat and sound insulation properties. TO cons include lack of resistance to fire and destruction of foam under mechanical stress.

Calculation of insulation thickness

The thickness of the insulation is different meanings in construction regions. Heat air implies a smaller thickness of insulation. Areas with a predominance of low temperatures - greater thickness of insulation.

Attic roofs have 3 types of enclosing structures:

Attic floor
Coating
Gable walls

They have differences in heat resistance. Much less heat escapes through the walls of a building than through the coating.
The thickness of the material is selected individually depending on the type of structure.

NOTE!

The thickness of the attic roof insulation is calculated according to SNiP II-3-79 or according to the universal formula:

δ ut = (R - 0.16 - δ 1 /λ 1 - δ 2 /λ 2 - δ i /λ i)×λ ut

δ ut - material thickness
δ i - expresses the calculated thickness of the structure layer;
R - thermal resistance of the structure for a certain area, (m²×°C/W)
λ i - degree of thermal conductivity of the insulation layer of the structure, (W/m×°C),
λ ut - coefficient of thermal conductivity of thermal insulation, W/(m °C).

An example of calculating the thickness of insulation

Let's assume that the attic cladding is done from the inside. In order: lining made of wood, vapor insulation made of polyethylene film, mineral wool, air gap and roofing material. The formula indicates the thickness each layer, their thermal conductivity coefficient, and arithmetic operations are carried out to obtain the required thickness.

Roofing pie device

The attic roof has several functional layers. The types of roofs with their structures vary in degree of complexity.

Collectively, the layers of the attic roof are called roofing pie(another scheme for insulating an attic roof).

There are 2 types of attic: exploited and cold. The roof structure is selected taking into account the choice of attic structure.

In the case of a cold attic layout, only the overlap.

If you plan to have an attic, you will need to do roof insulation.

It is in this case that a roofing pie is created.

The pie consists of:

interior decoration,
lathing,
counter battens,
insulation,
ventilation gap,
roofing material.

Carefully!

Insulation of an attic roof from the inside

Insulation of the attic roof from the inside occurs in the following sequence of actions:

It is recommended to start work from the bottom edge of the roof. Waterproofing film laid out overlapping, the edges are secured with adhesive tape.
Nailed to the rafters using nails counterbattens. This is necessary to ensure ventilation gap and high-quality adhesion of the film to the roofing material.
After this, it fits without gaps insulation. Can be used mineral wool.
Free space is hemmed vapor barrier membrane.

Insulating an attic roof from the inside, how to avoid mistakes. How to insulate an attic floor for winter living: do it yourself How to properly and how to insulate an attic roof

Why do problems arise?

Let's start insulation - work technology

No - dampness and smudges!

What is dew point?

Vapor barrier: warm European winters and Russian frosts

We close access to water vapor

Does external waterproofing “breathe”?

When do you have to dismantle the roof?

Insulation of complex structural elements

Functional features of the thermal insulation layer of the roof

Features of attic roof ventilation

Choice of insulation

Insulation installation technology

How to properly insulate an attic roof from the inside with your own hands

Attic: why do you need roof insulation?

Attic insulation: materials

Insulation of the attic roof

Proper insulation of the attic

How to insulate an attic roof: work order

What is the best way to insulate an attic roof?

Insulation of attic roofs from the inside, instructions and video

In what cases may attic insulation be needed?

How to insulate attic roofs - criteria for choosing material for insulation

What is the best way to insulate an attic from the inside?

Insulating “pie” for thermal insulation of the attic

Insulation of the attic roof from the inside between the rafters

Construction of thermal insulation from the inside under the rafters

General points

Video description

Preparation

Insulation of the rafter system

Insulation of an unprepared roof

Video description

Effective insulation

Stone wool

Proper completion of work

Video description

Results

Attic insulation: materials

Glass wool

Styrofoam

Extruded polystyrene foam

Polyurethane foam

Ecowool

Attic roof: how to insulate from the inside

Insulation pie – from the inside out

Attic: roof insulation from outside

Calculation of insulation thickness

An example of calculating the thickness of insulation

Roofing pie device

Insulation of an attic roof from the inside

The essence of logical-probabilistic methods

Kosyrev Alexander Vasilievich First Secretary