How to install a router on a table. Milling table. milling table for manual router

professional processing and manufacturing wooden parts only possible using milling machine. You can fully use this tool in a special installation. This is the milling table. This installation is rare, and those options that are on sale are quite expensive. It makes no sense to spend a lot of money on the purchase of this design, since you can make it yourself.

Milling table: purpose, types

The convenience of using a router placed in the table lies in the optimization and safety of working with wood, as well as the speed of manufacturing parts. The principle of operation of this installation is quite simple, since the milling cutter does not move along the surface being machined, but the part moves relative to it. The milling cutter, fixed in the table, gives more wide opportunities detail processing. As a result, the blanks of products are obtained as in professional furniture workshops with the appropriate equipment. Before making a milling table, you need to decide on the appearance and size. It is necessary to take into account the possibility of upgrading the table. It is important that the table is reliable and stable in use. The presence of drawers will create additional comfort in work.

compact homemade construction replace industrial machine

There are three main types of router tables:

1. Stationary - a specialized design, usually bulky and unmovable.
2. Portable - has compact dimensions and relatively low weight. This table is easy to move.
3. Aggregate - the design provides for the expansion of the surface of the saw table.

Construction scheme

For self-manufacturing of countertops, MDF boards are usually used, pasted over with various plastic coatings, thick plywood or boards. These materials are easy to process, light in weight and durable.

Wooden structure is easy to handle and use

Some craftsmen believe that a metal countertop is the most durable and durable. They are right, but such a table with an electrical appliance will become an excellent conductor, which is unsafe. Also, the metal is prone to corrosion, so it must be painted.

Milling table tops must be smooth. Often they are made of plastic or metal. These tables have a perfectly flat surface that is immune to moisture. Phenolic plastics lend themselves well to processing. This is very convenient when making grooves for aluminum profile or when drilling holes for fasteners longitudinal stop. Like MDF, plywood and boards, these materials have reasonable prices.

In branded worktops made of steel or aluminum, holes are already provided for a specific router model. If the manufactured models of countertops are made of MDF boards or plastic, then firms prepare only holes for the plates. Although this does not always happen.

There are holes in the sole of the plate through which the router is fastened with screws to its base. These plates can be made of metal, plastic, polycarbonate or aluminium. The plate for the router must be installed flush with the surface of the countertop. If any part of the insert protrudes above the surface, the workpieces will catch on it.

The table top is equipped with adjusting screws or other devices to level the plate. It is better to choose a plate with replaceable rings. This is necessary to select the holes of the rings according to the size of the diameter of the cutter. This makes it easier to remove chips and other debris from the working surface milling table.

Create convenience in selecting the diameter of the cutter

When performing milling operations, a longitudinal stop is often needed, which guides the workpiece under right angle. In order for the work to be done accurately, it must be even along its entire length, located strictly perpendicular to the table surface and easily reconfigured for various processes. The front parts of the stop can be made both solid and in the form of several overlays. To accumulate chips and debris, the side stop is equipped with a pipe. The hose of the vacuum cleaner is connected to it.

The front parts of the stop in the form of several fixed overlays

Milling table can be upgraded with a bed in which the grinder will be fixed. More about self-manufacturing you can read this design.

Necessary tools and materials

1. Joiner's glue.
2. Bolts with nuts.
3. Screws.
4. MDF board and birch plywood
5. Electric jigsaw.
6. Spanners.
7. Sandpaper.
8. Ruler.
9. Pencil

Drawings and calculation

To make a table for a router, you can use a separate surface, which is fixed in wooden poles or between two pedestals. Most in a simple way creating a countertop, a supporting part and parts for a milling table will use an MDF board or birch plywood with a thickness of 16 to 25 mm. If the plate is covered with plastic, then there will be less resistance during operation. The plate laminated on both sides will not warp during operation. In our case, in the manufacture of the milling table, we used:

1. 1 MDF panel, size 19x1000x1800 mm.
2. 1 plywood sheet, size 19x1000x1650 mm.
3. 1 plate, size 4x30x30 mm.
4. Aluminum rails - 2.3 m.
5. Wheel support with brake - 4 pcs.

Photo gallery: Milling table schemes

Step-by-step instruction

The structure of the top of the table will consist of wooden parts that are sawn from a single 19mm MDF board. Birch plywood can be used as a replacement for this material.

• Saw the sheet material into fragments according to the indicated dimensions.

1 - working surface; 2 - emphasis base; 3 - its wall of the stop; 4 - scarf (4 pieces, dimensions for 19 mm plywood); 5 - tsarga (2 pcs.); 6 - side bar; 7 - connecting bar (4 pcs.)

Before sawing into parts, it is necessary to check the thickness of the MDF board, as often it may not match the specified parameters or be defective.

• It is necessary to remove the plastic lining from the sole of the router. In the future, it will serve as a template for marking the cutters on the surface of the countertop.

The plastic overlay will serve as a template when marking

• On the largest sawn part No. 1, 90x70 cm in size, make markings for the cutter. To do this, draw a line in the middle at a distance of 235 mm from the edge, putting a mark. Then place the overlay so that the router adjustment mechanisms are closer to the edge of the table. Having positioned the trim evenly, mark the places for drilling holes that will be fixed with screws.

Mounting holes must match the trim

• Measure the diameter of the lining and the distance from the outer edge to the cut of the sole, as shown in the image.

Determination of its diameter

• From the middle of the cut part of the sole, draw a line perpendicular to its center, where: S = D/2-(D-H).

Measurements are taken from the cut of the sole of the lining

• Using the holes in the sole of the lining, mark the future holes for the mounting screws.

Using an overlay as a template

• In parts No. 2 and 3, drill holes for fasteners and cutters. At the base and front of the stop, make markings for semicircular cutouts, as shown in the image. Using a jigsaw, cut semicircular cutouts. Sand the surfaces.

There are no semicircular cutouts in the diagram.

• Fasten four planks (parts No. 7) to the underside of the table top with screws.

Use carpentry or epoxy as glue.

• Glue the rest of the blanks and secure them with screws. Install a router on the bottom of the tabletop.

1 - side bar for fixing with clamps on the goats; 2 - tsarga; 3 - countersunk guide holes; 4 - front wall of the stop; 5 - self-tapping screw with countersunk head 4.5x42; 6 - scarf; 7 - stop base

• Now we need to make support structure table. In our case, its height will be 820 mm. For this, a sheet of birch plywood 19x1000x1650 mm was used.

1 - external side stand; 2 - internal rack; 3 - rear rack; 4 - base

• Cut plywood into pieces according to size.
• Assemble the table structure, fixing its parts with self-tapping screws, screws, glue. The result is a frame with free space in the cabinets, which are convenient to use for storing tools and consumables.

1 - side stand; 2 - support on wheels; 3 - the bottom of the structure; 4 - inner panel; 5 - rear pillar

• Then you need to make mounting plate, which will contribute to a greater overhang of the cutter due to the tool attached to it. For the manufacture of the plate, duralumin, getinax or polycarbonate with a thickness of 4 to 6 mm is required. Cut out a square from the specified material, the sides of which are equal to 300 mm. Glue the sole of the router on it (using double-sided tape). In this case, the overlay will be used as a template. Drill the plate through the holes in the lining. After that, remove the overlay and make recesses for the caps in the plate with a large drill.

Allows the cutter to handle the details as much as possible

• As shown in the image, you need to place the plate and trace its outline. Draw and cut a cutout on the tabletop, the edges of which should be processed sandpaper.

A pre-drilled hole will make the process easier

• At the place where the cutter is attached, drill holes and widen them with reverse side countertops with a 11 mm drill. Lay the mounting plate on the prepared hole in the worktop, aligning them for bolting. Attach the part to the sole of the router. Insert the tool into the worktop and fasten it with screws.

The holes of the worktop and the plate must match

• For the convenience of working on the machine, it is necessary to modify the side stop and equip it with a rotary one. This will help further process the ends of narrow parts. To do this, you need to cut guides from a T-shaped profile into the surface of the plate.

Swivel and side stop make the process convenient

• Install the guide profile in the front plate of the stop for fastening clamps, linings and protective devices.
• To connect the vacuum cleaner to the machine, it is necessary to make a pipe for dust removal. To do this, you need to cut a piece of 140x178 mm in size from plywood. In the center of the part we do round hole for fastening the adapter for the vacuum cleaner.

The part is made of plywood

• For a stop, add a safety shield made of plywood and plexiglass.

Wing nuts are used for convenience.

• For milling small fragments, make clamps and clamps. To do this, cut out the details from plywood in accordance with the dimensions in the image. When making a clamp-comb, it is better to use maple wood. To cut the part, you need to choose a section with a straight direction of the wood fibers. Ridge slots are best done circular saw on the machine.

Allows you to fix details when processing small fragments

• Fix the guide with clamps. Sand all surfaces of the table, especially in places where milling work will be carried out. Clear All wooden elements from dust and cover with oil.

Safety

When working on a milling machine, accidents and injuries from contact with the rotating mechanisms of the cutter and particles of workpieces flying off from it are possible. Before starting the router, you need to remove all tools from the surface of the countertop, clean its surface from debris and small particles. It is also possible to equip the milling table with a protective screen that will prevent the scattering of particles.

While working at the table, it is unacceptable to clean and lubricate parts, remove protective screen and measurement of workpieces. Protective goggles must be worn to prevent the flying particles from getting into the eyes. This is especially true for high-speed milling or processing of bronze elements, cast iron or silumin.

It is necessary to cut the cutter into the part gradually. The mechanical feed must be turned on until the part comes into contact with the cutter drill. During the rotation of the milling mechanism, it is unacceptable to place hands close to the rotation zone of the tool. Before installing the drills, you need to make sure that they are reliable and durable, as well as the integrity and correctness of sharpening. Drills should not contain metal chips and cracks. If such defects are found, they must be replaced.

Video: Making a do-it-yourself milling table

Thanks relatively inexpensive materials and your skill can build a compact design of the milling table. This will allow you to produce parts with high-precision cutouts and high-quality processing at home.

The plates are a combination of two plates 3 mm thick each, which are attracted to each other with flush M4 screws. The plates can be purchased in a disassembled state, a cheaper (budget) option. Then you yourself will have to countersink the holes in the top plate for the M4 screw, and cut the threads under the M4 in the bottom plate in the holes, and assemble the plates together yourself. Or you can purchase it in a version that is already completely ready for installation in the countertop.

The plates have dimensions based on the size of the soles of the milling cutters and can be made in three versions:
Option 1: Both plates (upper and lower) are completely made of steel (steel3)
Option 2: Top plate made of of stainless steel AISI 430, St.3 bottom plate
Option 3: Both plates are made of AISI 430 stainless steel.

In addition, for some types of routers there are two options external dimensions plates.
The plate is installed in milling table top into a specially milled window and aligned parallel to the plane of the tabletop using hardened pins (the pin has a flat tip and a hole for a hex key), which are screwed into the formed shelf of the tabletop window. To do this, it is necessary to drill holes in the shelf of the tabletop on which the plate will lie with a 4.5 mm drill, and then use the wrench to screw the pins into these holes. Table top for milling table can be made from laminated plywood, solid wood, chipboard, etc.

Mounting plates manual router allow you to do homemade milling table.

Make a milling table with your own hands, having drawings in front of you, necessary materials, fastening, not difficult. Some people think it's better to buy ready product. Others are sure that homemade table allows you to precisely adapt the work site to your needs, the nuances of a CNC machine or a conventional hand router. What to choose is up to you.

To make yourself a table for a router, you first need to decide what it will be. The operation of a milling machine may vary depending on a number of factors, including the size of the machine itself.

Working on a table for a CNC milling machine begins with the fact that you choose which drawing will become the basis for manufacturing. Not infrequently, work is carried out without drawings. But then you must draw the parameters of the future table yourself, cut its elements using a circular saw. The components that will be required to make a homemade table should be selected based on its main elements.

1. Construction type. Work outside the workshop, and with constant movements, it provides for the choice of a portable table for a CNC machine or without program control. If the work will be carried out in the garage, workshop without the need to carry the table, you should choose stationary table under your cutter. There is an aggregate type. This is an option when expanding the table top of your milling machine or making a rotary version of the design.
2. Tabletop. To do top cover your table, use chipboard sheets or MDF. These materials are easily cut with a circular saw, so the work is not difficult. Many make a homemade table using a pressed table top. But it is important to understand that when working in conditions increased dampness they quickly swell and become unusable. Alternatively, you can choose plastic. An excellent practical countertop is created from polymer sheets. Metal is stronger, but heavy material. If you decide to choose aluminum, be sure to cover it with a protective varnish layer.
3. Groove and emphasis. Work on a milling machine usually involves longitudinal processing of the side of the workpiece. If you want to process transverse end elements, the design must include a movable stop. This emphasis will move in the grooves. The groove will also serve as a fixation of the clamping elements of the structure.
4. Milling cutter installation. Using a homemade table, the hand router can be attached to the table directly to the bottom of the tabletop or to a removable platform. The first option is easier to do, but if you choose the second method, you will get some advantages in the form of easier removal of the cutter when changing cutting tools. In this regard, the mounting plate is the preferred option, which will take a little longer to tinker with.
5. Longitudinal stop. This stop acts as a guide for the workpieces. Therefore, the most important requirement is that the emphasis must be as even as possible. Since this is a homemade table, you can make an emphasis using the T-slot. Clamping devices and other components are inserted into it, which make it easier to work on the machine.

All necessary elements can be cut with a circular saw. Making a homemade table is not a problem. The tabletop, stop, guides, fasteners are clearly indicated in size if you use standard drawings. Taking finished drawing, you can adapt a homemade table for a CNC machine to your own needs. Do what is best for you. Finding the drawings themselves is not difficult, and you probably have a circular saw in your arsenal of power tools, since you are going to make a table for a CNC machine.

Do it yourself

To make yourself a table for a manual router or a machine with a CNC module, you will need drawings and the necessary elements of the future design, which we described above.

When choosing a drawing for a future design for a milling machine, be sure to focus on the dimensions of your machine, as well as the dimensions of the space available for placing equipment. Do big table under small machine with CNC does not make sense, exactly, as well as vice versa.

You can always redo the drawing, make some corrections, based on available materials, features of the machine, the presence of a circular and other nuances. If you need a good coordinate table under a milling cutter, it is better to purchase a factory-made one. Making a homemade coordinate table is quite problematic.

We offer you the option of a small table, the work on which will allow you to easily place a small desktop CNC router or without a module. The advantage of this design is that it is easy to do it yourself, it has small size, not complex fasteners are used here.

1. The desktop and side racks are recommended to be made of laminated plywood. The material must be thick enough to withstand the load. Approximate dimensions countertops will be 40 by 60 millimeters. Not taking into account the corner stop, the height will be 35 cm. The corner stop itself has a height of 10 cm. Instead of plywood, metal or plastic plate. The plate made of such materials is more durable and less prone to wear. But the metal plate will add weight, making the table not so mobile and light.
2. On the surface of the tabletop, make three grooves that will serve to install the rails. Auxiliary components of the future work surface can be installed here, which you may need to operate milling machines or a circular milling machine.
3. To increase the stability of the leg attachment structure, reinforce with chipboard or MDF sheets No. 22. The legs of the table must be set at some distance so that there is room for fixing templates and clamps with clamps.
4. You can close the mechanism of the machine by covering the bottom of the front panel with a sheet of plywood or other similar material.
5. Under the side stop, grooves must be made along which it can move. At the required place, the stop is fixed with bolts and nuts. And it is better to use wing nuts. In this case, you can easily remove the stop and put another unit in its place.
6. The stop is connected to a branch pipe, which is necessary to remove dust and chips during processing. To remove waste, use ordinary corrugated hoses, which are widely used in the organization of sewage. Through the clamp, you can connect a home vacuum cleaner.
7. If you have desktop machine, it is better to provide for the presence of a toggle switch to turn the machine on and off. If you do not have a desktop, but a simple manual milling cutter, such a toggle switch is not required.
8. The stop includes two elements that can move or move apart depending on the size of the working tool. To fix the sash, use the wing nuts. This design makes it easy to extract milling device out of the bed and change cutters as needed.
9. What material to use for the mounting surface under the CNC router, decide for yourself. Experts advise taking textolite or plexiglass.

A similar table for a desktop or manual milling machine can be made using a circular saw, electric jigsaw and standard tools. The coordinate version of the table is much more complicated, because the work involves the use of appropriate drawings and materials.

Which table to choose for you - a coordinate or a regular home-made milling cutter with or without a CNC, decide for yourself. The work must be carried out with high quality, observing all the specified dimensions. Watch the video instructions to help you determine which table is best for your machine.

A milling machine is a professional woodworking tool that requires special installation. For installation, a milling table can serve, which is rarely found on sale, and those that are on the market cost a lot of money. Therefore, it is much easier to make a milling table with your own hands. It is the presence of a special machine that allows you to optimize the work as much as possible, make it safe and process the workpieces more quickly. This is due to the fact that it is not the tool (milling cutter) that moves along the material being processed, but the part is moved along the resulting machine. Below will be described how to make a homemade milling table.

The quality of work largely depends on the choice of a table for a milling machine.

Choice of material and table type

Professional craftsmen who are engaged in carpentry always try to make themselves a specialized milling machine. It not only simplifies the work, but also allows you to make more accurate and accurate cuts that will not differ from the factory ones. Many foreign companies offer some models of specialized milling machines, but these models are either not well thought out (not ergonomic and inconvenient), or they cost a lot of money, which will pay off for a long time. Homemade machine, made for yourself, will save money, will be convenient during operation. To make a machine for yourself, you must first decide on the type of its design.

As a countertop for a milling table, MDF boards or wood of different species are usually used.

In principle, all types of machine tools can be divided into 3 types:

• stand-alone (personal, non-portable);
• portable (small portable);
• expandable (stand - wing to the table).

Determining the type is quite simple, for which you should know the operating time on the machine. For long and long work, you should choose a separate machine. In case of rare use of the tool, a portable one is also suitable. A prefix or wing to the table is suitable if there is not enough free space. The advantages of a stand-alone table include the fact that when long work with the tool, you can not turn it off.

For the manufacture of machines, you can use MDF boards (on the countertop), pine boards(relatively cheap material) or boards of any other material. It is much easier to use MDF after all. This is the cheapest material for the production of furniture, easy to process. If financial opportunity allows, then preference should be given to natural wood.

Special mention must be made of metal. Some people consider metal to be the most durable material, and they are right. Metal is much stronger than wood, but it has significant drawbacks. For example, it is an ideal conductor, so it is not recommended to mount an electrical appliance on such a surface. Another disadvantage is weight. You should take care of the strength of the legs, which must withstand not only the surface of the table, but also the sum of the masses of the tool, parts and workpieces, the weight of a person. In addition, in winter, in an unheated room, the metal will be cold and create discomfort for the working master, the metal may rust. Therefore, it is strongly recommended to abandon the metal.

Small design details

To make a good multifunctional table, you should know the principle of the router.

In order to make a good machine, you need to know how the router works, and how best to process workpieces on it.

So, the milling cutter is mainly used for processing the longitudinal edge of the part. If it is necessary to mill grooves across the workpiece, it is recommended to provide a special groove in the design for the stop-carriage. In addition to the function described above, additional clamps can be mounted in the groove for better processing blanks.

It will greatly simplify the work of an emphasis placed longitudinally, which will act as a guide for the materials being processed. This stop must be perfectly flat and even, the working plane of the stop must be perpendicular to the plane of the table surface, and the stop itself must be movable. The latter is required to adjust to the dimensions of the workpieces. With proper manufacture of such an emphasis, the machine will be able not only to mill, but also to joint (plan) materials. A groove should be provided in the stop, which will allow the installation of auxiliary tools. You can also provide attachments for a vacuum cleaner hose on it, which, working on blowing, will allow you to quickly clean the treated surface from chips and sawdust, improving visibility.

A properly made milling table with metal plates will allow you to quickly change the cutter if necessary.

But the most important thing is the way the router is attached. To mount the tool, metal countertops are usually used, which look like a small plate that is attached to the countertop. The milling cutter is attached to this plate with screws or bolts in specially made holes. The use of such a mini-surface will save up to 1 cm of milling depth, you can make a quick dismantling (mounting) of the tool and more evenly fix the tool to the metal tabletop.

The speed of removal of the milling cutter from such a plate will allow you to quickly replace the cutter on it. There is still a gain and on fastening. So, if for attaching a tool to wooden table top very careful leveling of the surface is required, it is necessary to drill holes in the right places, which for another model of the tool may not be suitable both in diameter and in attachment points, then in the case of a metal mini-surface, the surface of the boards is leveled only at the attachment point of the sheet of metal, points fasteners will always be static, which will allow you to quickly change the tool if necessary. Each router has its own attachment points, so before installing it, it is recommended to familiarize yourself with its drawings.

Installing the router using the drawings is not difficult - just drill holes, maintaining the dimensions (distances between them).

Table manufacturing procedure

A properly assembled milling table allows you to process various surfaces.

A primitive home-made table may look like this: an MDF tabletop, fixed on 4 legs, on (under) which a tool is installed, a board is fixed on the tabletop - a guide that can be fixed to the table and with clamps. This is the easiest option. However, it is irrational, because part of the tabletop (at least 50%) will not be used in the process of work, in addition, there is a high probability of uneven installation of the router, which will cut uneven grooves. It is more rational to use this design on the folding wing of the table. This will significantly save space in the workshop and rationally use the work surface.

The next option differs from the previous one in advanced features. So, in the middle of the table, a hole is made for mounting the tool, the Guide Board is made with a groove for processing thin workpieces, and fixed with self-tapping screws. Next, a groove is made (at some distance from the router), which will allow milling workpieces at an angle.

A portable machine looks very simple. Small legs are attached to the tabletop (the size is equal to the length of the router + 5-7 cm). The dimensions of the tabletop itself are minimal, allowing you to install only a router + 15-20 cm. This option will be mobile (portable), but it will be inconvenient to work on it long time. This mini-machine is suitable for extremely rare tool use.

Individual workplace

Consider the manufacture of a "serious" table for a router.

To begin with, it is worth mentioning the size. On average, the size can be 1 x 1 or 1 x 0.7 (0.8) m. This will not only allow you to work comfortably on the table, but also place other auxiliary items on it. A frame is knocked under the tabletop (legs, which should be attached not only to the tabletop, but also have an additional screed).

Then they do the countertop. For its manufacture, it is necessary to knock down the boards (under right size), carefully plan them with a planer and sand them with sandpaper so that they are almost smooth surface. Then plywood is glued onto the countertop. It will make the surface almost perfectly flat. To prevent plywood from peeling off under the influence of vibrations, it should be additionally fixed with self-tapping screws. When the glue dries and the plywood is fixed to the countertop with self-tapping screws, a hole is cut in the middle of the countertop for mounting the router. The hole should have a rectangular shape and have dimensions equal to the size of the router + 50-100 mm in length and width.

The tabletop surface of the milling table must be even and smooth.

The next step is to prepare a metal plate to which the router will be attached. It should have a size equal to the size of the hole + 2.5-3 cm in length and width. The fixing points of the tool are determined in place.

Next, install a guide board or stop. The latter is preferable. It is better to make the emphasis movable (as described above) and double, so that they can clamp the material. Mobility is provided by grooves for the entire length of the table, into which metal guides are inserted. An anchor is made on the stops themselves, which will enter the guides. It can be cut out of wood or attached to the wheels stop.

For the convenience of work, grooves are cut out in the tabletop, which will allow processing workpieces at an angle. Their width and the distance between them is determined by the master. Several drawers for tools can be attached to the bed. So that the table has a pleasant appearance, you should make slopes on the tabletop and legs. and varnish all surfaces.

Such a table will allow you to quickly, without straining, process workpieces, which will make the woodworking time enjoyable.

The milling table will facilitate your work and help to increase the accuracy of processing workpieces. You can buy a ready-made one, or you can make a router table for a manual router with your own hands, using woodworking skills. We have prepared for you a fairly detailed step by step instructions for table making.

The essence of all designs of a horizontal milling table is the same, the idea is clear - you need to think it over for yourself and execute it, taking into account your capabilities. And in the end, get a machine that allows you to process workpieces much more accurately and perform operations that previously seemed difficult for a manual milling cutter.

Decide on the size of the work surface, starting from the dimensions of the workpieces being processed and the free space in the workshop. Start small - build simple countertop, laying in the design the possibility of modernization. Work on it and gradually bring to mind.

Make a tabletop

The simplest table for a milling cutter is a separate working plate, placed on carpentry goats or between cabinets. The fixture costs a penny and is made in a few hours, but will allow you to perform a significant proportion of the same operations as a multifunctional machine. You only need MDF or birch plywood 19-25 mm thick. Better fit a plastic-coated panel that provides less friction resistance, and a plate laminated on both sides will not warp during operation.

Set the exact right angle of the cut on the circular saw, cut the parts according to the dimensions and grind the ends.

Cutting pattern: 1 - main plate; 2 - stop base; 3 - front wall of the stop; 4 - scarf (4 pieces, dimensions for 19 mm plywood); 5 - tsarga (2 pcs.); 6 - side bar; 7 - connecting bar (4 pcs.)

Advice. Before cutting, measure the thickness sheet material often deviating from the standard. Make adjustments to the drawings, eliminating problems during assembly of the structure.

Remove the plastic pad from the sole of the router.

Draw a line in the middle of the slab and mark 235 mm from the edge.

Place the overlay so that the router's main controls are next to the edge of the table. Visually align the center of the lining with the marked point and mark the places for drilling the holes for the mounting screws.

Determine the center location for the sole with equidistant screws.

For a base with asymmetrical screws, measure the diameter of the rubber and the distance from the outer circumference to the cut of the sole.

Draw a line with a pencil in the middle of the beveled side, calculate the distance from it to the center:

• S=D/2-(D-H)

Position the cut perpendicular to the midline and mark the center of the sole.

Mark the mounting screw locations.

Drill mounting holes and under the cutter, countersink the recesses. Mark semicircular cutouts in the base and front wall of the stop.

Cut out the bends with an electric saw. Make auxiliary frequent cuts perpendicular to the edge of the part, slightly leading to the marking line. Then lead the file a little closer to the contour line - the pieces will fall out without interfering with the movement of the canvas. Sand the cutout with sandpaper wrapped around the pipe.

Fasten the connecting strips from the bottom of the tabletop.

Glue all the blanks and fasten with additional screws. Pick up screws longer than the regular ones by the thickness of the plywood and install the router at the bottom of the slab.

1 - side bar for fastening with clamps on the goats; 2 - tsarga; 3 - countersunk guide holes; 4 - front wall of the stop; 5 - self-tapping screw with countersunk head 4.5x42; 6 - scarf; 7 - stop base

Fix the table on the goats with clamps, fix the position of the stop with clamps and get to work.

Build a solid foundation

The worktop can be installed on a frame of low height, sufficient to accommodate the router. A portable table is stored on a rack, and is fixed on a workbench for work. If you often mill and have free space in the workshop, add support pedestals to the table top and get a full-fledged machine.

Cut the cabinet pieces to the dimensions given for the 820mm high table or modify them so that the tabletop is level with other equipment .

Frame details: 1 - outer side panel; 2 - inner panel; 3 - rear panel; 4 - base

Lay the tabletop upside down. Install side panels in sequence and fasten them with screws, pre-drilling pilot holes. Fasten the base, lay the frame face down, align the square corners and install the two back panels.

At the end, attach the wheel supports to the bottom of the hull using roofing screws. Position the wheel mounting pads at least 20 mm from the edges.

1 - side stand; 2 - wheel support; 3 - bottom; 4 - internal rack; 5 - rear panel

Use free space in cabinets to solve the problem of storing tools and consumables.

Insert mounting plate

Get a longer cutter overhang by placing the tool on a 4-6 mm thick plate made of duralumin, getinaks or solid polycarbonate.

Cut out a 300 mm square from the sheet, put it on a workbench. Glue the plastic sole of the router on top with double-sided tape, placing it in the middle face up. With a drill of the same diameter as the fixing screws, drill holes in the plate using the plastic pad as a template. Remove the sole, make recesses for the caps with a countersink or a large drill.

Screw the plate to the disconnected router, insert an 8 mm drill into the collet. Lower the body of the tool until the drill touches the surface and rotate the chuck, marking the center. Unscrew the plate and make a hole according to the mark with a hole saw.

Place the plate on the tabletop and trace the outline. Draw and cut the cutout by inserting the jigsaw blade through drilled hole. Trim the ends with a file and sand with sandpaper.

Fix the thin boards around the marked contour with clamps.

Clamp in collet copy cutter bearing, set the cutting depth to match the thickness of the mounting plate. Carry out the milling in several passes, then add 0.5 mm with the micrometer regulator of the router and make the final pass.

Drill through holes under the screws and expand them from the back of the worktop with an 11 mm drill for self-locking nuts. Clean the surfaces and install the nuts on the epoxy, leveling with the screwed bolts.

Fit the mounting plate to the cutout, lay it in place, drill the fixing holes and countersink with front side. Attach the part to the sole of the router, insert the tool into the tabletop and tighten the screws. Check that the plate is flush with the tabletop plane, if necessary, compensate for errors with washers.

Improve your focus

For faster and more convenient setup of the machine, modify the parallel side stop and complete the machine with a rotary stop, which helps to process the ends of narrow parts. The latter can be taken from a stationary circular saw. Cut aluminum guides with a T-profile into the surface of the plate. To make cutouts in the countertop, use a router or a circular saw with a slotted disc.

Lightly round the top corners of the grooves with sandpaper. Cut the profile to size, drill holes according to the diameter of the screws, process them with a countersink. Insert the parts into the grooves, make thin holes and tighten the hidden screws.

Drill 7mm holes in the base of the stop, pick up hex bolts and plastic handwheels with nuts.

Install the guide profile in the front plate of the stop to secure the clamps, auxiliary pads and protective devices.

Cut out a plywood cover with a hole in the center, fasten it to the scarves located near the cutout of the longitudinal stop. Connect the adapter and connect the vacuum cleaner when working on the milling table.

Add a safety shield to the stop, made from plywood trim and a strip of plexiglass.

To make oblong cuts, drill 7 mm holes at the indicated points, connect them tangentially and make cuts with a jigsaw.

Make homemade clamps and clamps needed for milling small elements.

A comb press can be made from maple wood, choosing a straight-grained area. Make the gaps between the ridges on a circular machine:

1. Set the cutting height to 50 mm.
2. Set the cutting width to 2 mm.
3. Make a cut.
4. Pull the workpiece back with the manual pusher.
5. Turn the board 180°, saw through the other side.
6. Move the stop by 5 mm, repeat the operations.
7. Move the fence back again and make cuts all over the workpiece.

Secure the clamps to the rail with bolts and wing nuts.

1 - stopper; 2 - clamp-comb; 3 - protective shield; 4 - aluminum guide; 5 - nozzle for a vacuum cleaner

Sand the surfaces of parts, especially in places where workpieces will pass during the milling process. Clean the machine from dust and coat with oil.

1 — drawer for cutters; 2 - trapezoidal groove for stop

Summing up the project

Materials needed:

1. Plywood 19x1525x1525 mm - 2 sheets.
2. Plastic 4x30x30 mm.
3. Several dozen screws.
4. Aluminum guides - 2.3 m.
5. Wheel support with brake — 4 pcs.
6. Glue joiner's and epoxy.
7. Bolts M6 with nuts.

The ability to take your time and think through every step, accurately mark and cut blanks, or the desire to learn this, came in handy. The result is a solid milling table for little money. In the future, it is worth thinking about equipping the machine with a switch and a milling height adjustment mechanism.