Today we will talk about such ongoing work as processing the end sides of logs. This is very milestone during the construction of a log house, one should not think that the neighbor did nothing and the trouble will pass me by. And remember, your neighbor's trouble did not pass at all, but hid and waits, as it were, to hit harder.
Wood is primarily a living material, and requires proper attention and care.
Vital processes left to chance will not lead to anything good. That is why we will introduce you for what, how and with what to process the end of the log house according to the opinion and experience of the company's specialists and we hope that we can protect you from unpleasant surprises.
When sawing timber, logs, we open a “green light” for various kinds of fungi and pathogenic bacteria of a tree, believe our experience, they will not deny themselves the pleasure of settling in the open pores of wood and creating their own colonies, which will lead to the development of putrefactive processes.
To prevent such an attack, proper places should be treated by special means antiseptic protection.
If it became necessary to process the entire log house, then it is necessary to take into account following rules:
- it is impossible to carry out processing immediately after the log house has been erected, it is necessary to withstand a certain period of time, about one year, so that the wood acquires the necessary moisture content;
- when working from the outside, in no case should you apply funds inside the house, let the tree "breathe";
- darkened areas are cleaned only before applying the funds and not before.
This is what regarding the processing of the house itself, now let's move on to the next stage of the ENDS.
The end sides, as we already wrote, are nothing more than ordinary saw cuts, which are the “conductors” for tree diseases. This is the "Achilles heel" and processing is carried out immediately. Why?
Yes, everything is simple, there is no escape from the laws of nature and physics:
- along the side, along the fibers, moisture moves to the end sides very quickly;
- with untreated ends, the evaporation of moisture occurs unevenly, which leads to the formation of cracks;
- on open areas fungi and other pests instantly settle on the end sides of the log, this is favored by the increased humidity of the sawn area;
- Treated sides allow for natural shrinkage to prevent cracking.
SELECT COMPOSITION FOR PROCESSING.
Let's start the old-fashioned way with our favorite and proven old-fashioned way, using LIME.
It is a natural natural antiseptic, which is also an excellent protection against UV radiation. The price is cheap, what else do you need. We see joy in the eyes, but do not rush to run for shopping, there is one significant BUT.
Such a composition will wash away the first rain, and if you are stubborn and continue processing after each rainfall, then it's up to you. Someone seals the cuts with diluted PVA glue or paints over with acrylic-based varnish. In these cases, the pores of the wood are completely clogged and air circulation and moisture exchange processes are disturbed.
Currently developed modern facilities end caps that are functional, easy to use and reliable. Consider some formulations from local manufacturers.
Reviews on their use, according to a survey of consumers, were divided into two camps, but since such funds exist, we will also mention them for educational purposes, and whether to use them or not, the choice is yours: "SENEZH TOR" is a gift from Russian manufacturers.
The composition has the ability to deeply impregnate wood fibers, passing water through itself, but at the same time controls and reduces the evaporation of moisture from the bowels of the wood, prevents the formation of cracking and deeper cracks. Environmentally friendly material, as it does not contain toxic components that affect human health and the surrounding air. Non-flammable, resistant to sub-zero temperatures.
"NEOMID TOR PLUS" - " cousin» of the previous composition, forms an elastic film on the surface of the ends, which repels moisture, but allows the wood to "breathe". Protects from rotting and mold formation.
"BIOTOR" - the principle of operation is similar to the previous ones, with natural shrinkage it protects against cracking, reduces deformation.
How to correctly trim a log cabin.
When erecting walls, we often see a difference in the length of the logs, there is nothing special here and it is simply necessary to level them with an improvised tool, a chainsaw, so that the protrusions are the same. Mandatory grinding will remove darkened areas, visible small flaws when sawing logs.
Work is being done grinder or "grinder", equipped with a special nozzle. The primary process includes sandpaper with a coarse abrasive, and the final one with a finer grit. We warn you, such work should be carried out only in clear, sunny and dry weather! Wet wood is difficult to process, and various kinds of burrs and other scuffs are provided.
To get started, you will need a grinder and a grinding disc with P60-80 grain. Carefully grind the ends of the log house with a grinder, since the quality of these actions will depend on how deep it gets protective compound into the timber structure.
Impregnators and septic tanks
As a primary protection, impregnation solutions can be used, which include various biocides that protect the tree from harmful bacteria, fungi and insects (the most dangerous of which, for example, bark beetle). Such solutions are produced by both domestic and foreign manufacturers, for example, Tikkurilla offers seven positions of protective compounds.
Impregnation solutions are applied with a wide brush in several layers. Each subsequent layer is applied only after the previous one has dried. It is recommended to apply two or three layers of this solution with a time interval of no more than 12 hours.
The disadvantages of impregnating solutions include the fact that they evaporate over time, therefore, for reliable protection wood after processing, it is desirable to cover it with an additional layer of sealant.
Please note that the log house purchased from the manufacturer must already be treated with an antiseptic. Moreover, the processing should be deep - with immersion of logs in baths with a solution, i.e. one that cannot be done.
Sealants
The main advantages of the sealant include the fact that it penetrates well into the structure of the tree and is fixed in it when it dries, preventing moisture from getting inside. The composition is applied with a brush, also in two layers. After drying, it forms an acrylic film on the end of the log, which will protect your log house.
Oils and paints
But there is more a budget option protect the log house - processing its ends with used engine oil, which you will find in any car service or garage cooperative. For reliable protection, double application of oil with a frequency of 8-12 hours is sufficient.
Once a year, preventive lubrication of the ends should be carried out. Drying oil can also be used to protect the log house, since it has an affordable price, and is similar in action to sealants, however, over time it will evaporate, and the treatment will have to be repeated. You can also paint the ends of the log house with paint that has been liquidly diluted with a solvent. This way of applying acrylates or oil formulations will allow them to penetrate the wood fibers and seal them, keeping them from moisture and fungus.
END protectionProtection of logs of a felling from CRACKING. Protection of the ENDS of the log house.
After assembling ANY wooden house, no matter what it is made of: from a hand-cut log, from a rounded log, from a bar natural humidity or from profiled or planed timber, one of the main and most important task is to preserve appearance houses and the quality of the log or timber from CRACKING, keep the ends of the house from the log or timber from cracking.
How to avoid cracking logs and cracks in the beam.
When building a house or a log house from a hand-cut log, as well as from a rounded log, a log or bar of natural moisture is usually used. The house is assembled and left to stand and dry naturally - "shrinkage".
During this period, usually lasting from 6 months to 1 year, less often up to 3 years, the wood of the log house or timber begins to dry out naturally, releasing excess moisture, which it was saturated with during the growth of the tree, in environment. Time and speed of selection excess moisture from timber capillaries and logs depends on many initial factors:
- Wood harvesting time . Those. when timber was being harvested for the construction of your house or bath. If the forest was harvested for construction in the winter, then the moisture content of logs and timber may be minimal, because. sap flow in wood during the winter period is practically stopped or very little - the tree "sleeps" waiting out the winter and cold. But with the first rays spring sun the movement of juices and moles inside a living tree is activated, the tree is saturated with juices for growth in the warm summer season,
- Wood species used to make your home. The looser the wood, the more it can crack. Dense wood gives off excess moisture more evenly, which means that it cracks less,
- Region of timber harvesting . The more northerly, more severe, continental climate of growth and harvesting of the tree from which the house is built, the tree used to build your house or bathhouse can grow more slowly, the smaller the width of the "annual ring" by which the age of the tree is determined, the denser it wood is produced. From wood obtained in wetlands or damp lowlands, you are unlikely to be able to get a quality log house,
- From the age of the tree used for the construction of a log house or for the manufacture of timber for it. The faster the tree grows, the longer it is, but thinner, the density of wood in young trees is less than in centuries-old pines, which are usually cut down by high-quality log cabins,
- From proper storage sawn trunks harvested even in winter or from winter felling forests. Immediately, a debarked log begins to quickly and unevenly release natural moisture, which affects uneven drying and, as a result, severe cracking,
- From the correct felling of the log house and the processing of logs and log cabins carpenters in the manufacture of a log house and on the correct felling of a log house and the experience of carpenters who cut a log house and must know some rules that minimize cracking of a log in a log house or bathhouse. For example, it is enough to make a small longitudinal cut with a chainsaw along the groove of the log to minimize external cracking of the log, and if the log tries to form a crack, then this slight gap in the presence of such a technological groove should occur inside the log along the groove, and not along the outer or inner wall of the log facing outside or inside the log house. Such a crack does not affect the quality of the log house, does not spoil its appearance and is invisible on the surface of the house,
Usually quality houses they build from the forest of winter rolls of natural humidity, the logs of which are harvested in December - February. The felling of a log house on plots according to the project of the customer or the manufacture of timber for the customer's house kit can also be done in the winter. The cutting of a log house and the preparation of timber at sawmills usually takes about a month. The first log houses for assembly at the customer's site are usually ready for delivery to the customer by the end of February, beginning of March. Assembling a medium-sized 7x9 house takes about 2 weeks to a month. Those. log house from winter forest can be handed over to the customer in March. The weather in March is still quite cold and the built house does not experience sharp fluctuations in temperature and releases excess moisture from relatively evenly.
The logs of the log house assembled into the finished log house or the beam laid into the walls of the house should “dry”, “sit down”, “stand” as evenly as possible for a certain time to avoid a sharp removal of moisture from the logs or beam, which can lead to severe cracking of the log and beam or "twisting" logs and "twisting" timber in the walls of the assembled house. The slower the temperature changes at the time of standing the log house, the smoother the differences in day and night temperatures, the better, more uniform and better than wood in a log house, get rid of excess internal moisture and the less likely it is that the timber will crack in the walls of the house.
Why cracking of logs and timber occurs, cracks in the ends
logs and in a bar after assembling a house or a bath during the standing period.
Cracking of logs in a log house, cracking of the ends of logs, cracking of a beam occurs due to the fact that the beam or log begins to very quickly and, as a result, unevenly give up its moisture when the various sides of the log or the wall of the beam are unevenly heated by various external or internal influences, for example, sharp warming, rapid the onset of spring with warm weather during the day and strong cooling or frost at night. Severe fluctuations in daily temperatures, active thermal effects of the sun, which strongly heats only one outer side of a log or timber house assembled on standing, forced internal heating or heating of the log house when the fine finish at the unfinished stage of standing a log house or a bathhouse, it leads to a change in the difference in the density of wood. Log logs on the heated sunny side, where the density of the wood has become less due to the rapid dehydration of the log or timber, which is why the density of the wood has become less than the density of the log saturated with moisture on the side of the house not heated by the sun, the log breaks - cracks in the logs of the log house or cracking of the timber, or twisting of the timber in the wall of the house, which leads to deformation of the beam in the wall and the wall itself.
How to avoid cracking a log or timber in a log house.
Protect the log house from cracking. Protection of timber from cracking.
How to protect the ends of logs from cracks. End crack protection
Even if the weather allows the log house assembled for standing to dry out relatively evenly, then IN ORDER TO AVOID CRACKING OF THE LOG AND THE ENDS OF THE LOGS, IT IS NECESSARY TO LEVEL THE DENSITY OF THE WOOD OF THE ENTIRE SURFACE OF THE LOG.
Looking at the cut of the log, you can see that the log or timber in the cross section has annual rings. The closer to the core of the log, the thicker the annual rings, the looser the wood, its density is naturally lower, here the wood is the oldest, it was formed when the tree was still very young. The closer to the edge of the log, the thinner the annual rings, the density of the log is higher, the wood is harder, the capillaries are thinner. The densest layers of a log are the outer annual rings, which are practically under the bark and which remain on the surface after the trunk is debarked in the manufacture of a log house. But when cutting logs to the size of a log house, the softest parts of the log still partially appear on the surface of the log along the end edges of the log, bare, not protected by anything.
Conditions preventing cracking of logs and timber:
- Gradual drying of the log, uniform smooth changes in temperature when standing a log house from a log or timber,
- The same density of wood on all sides and ends of the log,
- Ensuring the same vapor permeability of the log from all its sides, preventing uneven saturation of the wood of the log or timber in its different parts by external natural or other factors such as rain, precipitation, etc. and for a uniform release of excess moisture from the wood capillaries,
The first condition can be met by giving the log house at least half a year for natural standing and drying, with the active organization of the ventilation system external walls and the internal space of the log house, making technological openings in the log house at the places of windows and doors for blowing and ventilating the log house.
The second and third conditions can be provided by processing sections of logs with special protective compounds and impregnations. The same density over the log area is ensured by processing the softest sides or parts of the log with SPECIAL impregnations to PROTECT the ends of the log house. Having processed the most loose parts of the log - the ENDS of the logs - with high-quality moisture-proof but VAPOR-PERMEABLE impregnations to protect the ends, for example Maslovosk Butt (link to the manufacturer's website Maslovosk to protect the ends
), we thus compact them, smooth out the density of wood over its entire area. With the same uniform density of wood, the removal of moisture from a naturally drying log will occur EQUALLY along the entire length of the trunk, thereby reducing the risk of rupture and cracking of logs or timber. The ends of the logs treated with a SPECIAL vapor-permeable moisture-proof impregnation will not WET, moisture will be removed through them in exactly the same way and at exactly the same speed as in the outer sections of the log, where the density of the wood was higher than that of the untreated section of the end of the log.
Structures for protection of a log and a bar from cracks.
Impregnation to protect the ends of logs from cracking
Protection of the ends of the log house from cracks and cracking - photo.
Protection of logs from cracking - photo
| Log ends WITHOUT TREATMENT
Maslovosk Butt 6 months after installation Photo of the raw ends of the stairs from the log to the log cabin of the bath |
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| Log ends PROCESSED Maslovosk Butt after 6 months. from the installation of a log house |
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To protect the walls of the house from the influence of precipitation, sun rays, exposure to wind, insects and mold, the walls of the log house are impregnated with special protective solutions and painted. In this way, the tree is protected from darkening, cracking of the ends of the logs, and the release of resin from the cut knots.
When choosing a method of coloring natural wood after grinding, they try to preserve it. natural properties, leave the opportunity for the tree to independently regulate the humidity in the house, maintain the vapor permeability of the walls.
Sometimes only the surface of the walls outside is painted. For example, such a finish is enough for an oak bath. The walls are not painted in order to avoid harmful fumes inside the sauna under the influence of heat and moisture and to preserve the vapor permeability of the wood. The walls of the residential building are processed inside.
When can you start painting a log house?
Builders do not advise painting the outside of log cabins that are not two years old after construction. During the first and second years, the house will shrink and dry.
The processing of the log house from the outside begins with the ends of the logs. They are painted immediately after construction is completed. This is done to even out the loss of moisture in the logs because the ends dry faster than the sides. At the same time, the walls are covered with an antiseptic to protect the tree from pests and fungus.
The inner surface of the walls is painted when the moisture content of the wood reaches 19-20%. This period begins six months after the construction of the house. The moisture level indicator is measured with special devices - moisture meters for wood. When the humidity reaches the desired value, the wood will absorb the primer well after sanding, and the paint will lie flat and last a long time.
Painting the walls of the log cabin outside
Advantages of painting the outer walls of a log house:
- The walls are protected from pests.
- Logs are resistant to corrosion, decay and fungus.
- The fire-fighting properties of the house are improved.
- Wood does not darken and does not crack.
- you give the house modern look by using different shades paints, and you can also decorate all outbuildings in the same style.
How to paint a log house
- We clean the surface of the logs from the outside. The walls must be thoroughly washed from dust. To do this, use a soft brush and a damp cloth. It is not necessary to water the walls abundantly with water. Before the next step, they should dry well.
- . The walls must be smooth after sanding so that the paint lays evenly. The surface of wooden logs is treated with sandpaper. Starting with a coarse grain sandpaper, and finish - fine-grained. You can speed up the work if you use a grinder with an emery wheel for grinding.
- We cover the walls with protective compounds. First, fire retardant impregnation is applied, after that - bioprotection.
- Each product covers the wall in 2 layers and waits for complete drying. The instructions for the paint indicate the exact drying time of one layer.
- Apply a water repellent finish. For this purpose, paints or special protective mixtures are used. After each coat of paint, the wall is allowed to dry for a couple of days. The first layer must be done with a brush. Subsequent layers can be applied with a spray gun, protecting the eyes with goggles and the respiratory tract with a respirator.
Modern industry produces paint materials that initially contain insect repellents and fire-fighting impregnations. The use of such mixtures can significantly speed up the painting of external walls after grinding.
How to choose material for painting exterior walls
When choosing how to paint a log house, you need to select materials that, after drying, will retain the natural ability of wood to regulate the level of humidity in the room.
Also, paint materials are selected in accordance with design decision. The exterior design of the house should match its style. house that looks like old manor, can be painted in light colors: white, blue. An old-style log house can be dark color with white ends. Most often, houses are painted with transparent varnishes or paints to match the wood from which they are built.
Consider the advantages and disadvantages of paints for wood.
Types of paints for wood
| Type of paint | Advantages | Flaws |
| Oily | Have affordable price, well protect against moisture, give the surface a glossy sheen | Form a vapor-tight film on the surface, toxic, the coating is short-lived |
| Alkyd based paints | protect from moisture | Toxic and short lived |
| Water soluble acrylic paints for wood | They allow the walls to "breathe", protect the surface well, are non-toxic, retain their original color for a long time. | Apply in 3 coats at long intervals to dry |
| Acrylate resin scuba diving | Non-toxic, colorless coating | Serve less than paint |
| Glazing impregnations, oil-wax | Protect the texture and color of wood | A short period of protection, on oak wood they leave indelible stains. Only suitable for spruce and pine. |
If "breathable" is selected for processing acrylic paint, then you need to ensure that before it is applied, the vapor permeability of the walls is not damaged by antiseptics or an alkyd-based primer with white spirit. All means by which the wall is processed after grinding must be vapor-permeable and environmentally friendly. Suitable primers and antiseptics without organic solvents based:
- acrylic and acrylate;
- wax;
- natural oils.
They must not form an airtight film on the painted wall.
How to paint a log house on the ends of logs
Cracks at the ends appear because in these places the tree quickly loses moisture. To prevent cracking, the ends of the logs are painted over. The coating must be vapor permeable. Its function is to slow down the loss of moisture and protect the tree from the adverse effects of the external environment.
The ends of the log house are sealed with paint immediately after the construction of the building. For these purposes, lime is most often used, water-based paint or a special coating for the ends of logs. To paint the ends after grinding, you need to carefully, in 3-4 layers.
How to paint the interior walls of a log house
are acrylic and alkyd paints For internal works. They paint the walls from top to bottom, carefully brushing over each log with a brush.
Do not use outdoor paints. It is not advisable to use them inside and is dangerous to health.
How to paint the walls of the bath from the inside
A special approach requires painting the walls of the bath. Logs inside the house are constantly exposed to heat and moisture. Some types of wood do not stain at all, but over time the surface of the walls darkens, so it is better to protect them.
The paint must withstand a temperature range from -25 to +120 degrees. Another requirement for paint quality is elasticity. This property ensures that the coating layer does not crack. Cracks lead to a decrease in the protection of the wall surface from the influence of moisture.
Most often in processing internal walls after grinding, varnishes are used on water based. They protect the surface from moisture and decay, preserving the color and aroma of natural wood.
Foreign and Russian manufacturers produce special products for coloring Finnish saunas with hot air and Russian baths with high humidity. These products include antibacterial components that protect the surface of the walls from fungus. If the paint is chosen correctly, then drops of moisture flow down the walls without being absorbed into them.
The shelves in the bath are covered with oil or wax impregnation. The mixture is carefully rubbed into the surface to protect the wood from cracking, darkening and bacteria. Lacquer cannot be used for these purposes, because the wood will heat up in the sauna so much that it will be impossible to sit on it.
Thus, in order to preserve the attractive appearance of natural log walls and preserve the property of wood to regulate the level of humidity in the house, it is advisable to use water-based paints. When preparing the walls after grinding for the next stage of processing, carefully select mixtures for bioprotection. Such impregnations should not create a vapor-tight film on the surface. The same requirements apply to the means to improve the fire resistance of wooden walls.
2.5 - 5.0 l
REINFORCED VERSION Maslovovsk Butt
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on MASLOVOSK-Anta VoskOil when ordering with Anteks impregnationfrom 55kgOil with wax to protect the ends of logs and timber from cracking. Impregnation for wood from wood cracking Maslovosk:
- Maslovosk made on an oil-wax basis. Maslosk for Ends is a NATURAL impregnation without the content of artificial chemical substances. Butter Wax is safe for people and animals, natural, practically does not cause allergies and has a certificate. End protector oil is odorless after drying. Maslovosk Butt possesses
- biosecurity,
- does not emit toxic fumes,
- does not interfere with the breathing of wood - wood "breathes"
- average term of protection - over 5 years(according to the manufacturer)
- effective cost against cracking from 150 g/m2
- biosecurity,
Differences of impregnation for Butts of the Maslovosk series:
| compound | protection effectiveness | toning | tinting | Term of the work | application | work at -t° |
| Maslovosk for Tortsov
|
highly efficient | No | Yes | up to 7 years | outside and sauna | up to -25t° |
| Maslovosk Premium | highly efficient | No | Yes | up to 9 years | outside and in the bath |
up to -35t° |
| Maslovosk Lrider GOLD | highly efficient | No | Yes | up to 10 years | outside/inside | up to -35t° |
Appointment of the Oil for protecting the ends of the log house and timber:
End protection oil is designed for protective and decorative finishing of log ends and beams made of all types of wood in order to protect wooden structures from rotting, mold, blue stain and insects, as well as preventing CRACKING of logs, preventing cracking of timber and any wood products. Oil Wax Butt prevents WETTING of the wood treated with it, but at the same time leaves the surface "BREATHING" (vapor permeable), does not completely "clog" the pores of the wood, unlike paint or other impregnation.
The main positive property of Oil with wax in protecting logs and beams from cracks and for protecting logs of a log house is the uniform COMPACTION of wood in its soft areas - the core (at the ends on the first annual rings, the wood is the loosest and has the lowest density, therefore it quickly rots and gets wet. Untreated the wood of the core of the tree is like a sponge, absorbs moisture) and ensures a uniform density over the entire surface of the log. With an uneven density of a log NOT treated with Wax Oil for the ENDS of a log in a finished log house or in a bar, the residual drying of the wood is uneven due to its different density on the surface, different speed drying of the wood, therefore, CRACKS may form in the untreated log and beam at the ends of the logs and along the entire log or beam. When wood is treated with Maslovsky for Ends, the outer density of the surface of the log and the beam becomes the same on the entire surface of the log or beam. Therefore, the wood CRACKS LESS or the number of cracks is significantly reduced, and the ends of the logs do not absorb moisture and are also less prone to cracking.
Crack impregnation "Maslovosk Torets" It is also intended to protect the ends of wood from biological damage and atmospheric influences. impregnation for wood protection based on oil with wax Maslovosk Butt penetrates deeply along the wood fibers, forming a special breathable water-repellent coating on the end surface, which normalizes the evaporation process excess moisture from wood.
Composition for protecting logs and beams from cracking on linseed oil and wax has a good impregnating ability. The wood fibers of the ends, like many small capillaries (straws), draw the agent into the wood, which leads to an increase in the strength of the wood.
Impregnation with oil and wax to protect the wood of log cabins and beams Maslovovsk Butt after processing forms a "breathable" and hydrophobic coating, helps protect wood from biological damage (blue, mold, rot). After impregnation, wood acquires strength, weather resistance, fungus resistance and moisture resistance.
The special natural UV filter included in the oil with wax for ends increases the resistance of the surface coating to solar UV radiation.
impregnation to protect the ends, logs and beams from cracks can be purchased in two versions: colorless and tinted (tinting - under the order. min. order from 50 kg).
The use of impregnation to protect logs and timber from cracks and cracking:
- outdoor wooden surfaces:
- Walls and parts of the roof
- Houses and baths made of logs and timber,
- Log cabins on exposure
- timber, lumber (with residual moisture not more than 35%),
- Interior wooden surfaces of summer rooms:
- The ends of the log cabins, the ends of the timber,
- Walls made of logs and timber in the house and bathhouse,
- Beam, lumber (with residual moisture not more than 35%)
The moisture content of wood before treatment with oil-wax impregnation Maslovosk for reliable protection, it is desirable to provide no more than 35%. The surface of the wood to be processed must be free from contamination and not have paint coatings. Surface treatment is carried out by applying impregnation with a patchwork rag or brush, a brush with very short and dense bristles to ensure the consumption per 1 m2 specified by the manufacturer.
- Drying time - from 3 hours to 24 hours.
- Consumption Maslovosk Butt is TOTAL 130-150 gr/m2
Impregnation in oil to protect the log and beam from cracking on the surface of the log and beamMaslovosk Butt can be processed wood and applies a protective composition when sub-zero temperatures (up to - 35°С).
Consumption of Maslosk for protection of Ends and for protection of a log house from Cracks:
Shelf life of bioprotective impregnation Maslovosk Torets:
Appearance of the surface treated with Maslovosk Butt:
After processing, the wood is oil-wax impregnated to protect the logs of the log cabin from logs and timber from cracking. Efflorescence is NOT formed on the surface of the tree. The previously darkened color of the wood is not restored after processing.
| not processed Maslovosk Butt |
processed by Maslovosk - 6 months |
NOT processed Maslovosk Butt | result Maslovosk Torets in 1 year |
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The color of the wood of the house treated with impregnation for the protection of the ends Maslovovsk Butt:
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wood color WITHOUT processing Maslovovsk Torets. Pure softwood |
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The color of the ends and the color of the logs of the log house processed Maslovosk for Butts |
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Color Maslovosk End face and frame of the house processed over ANTEX to increase bioprotection and give FIRE-retardant properties |
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photo as Maslovosk Butt protects wood WET AND CRACKS |
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| photo absorption of moisture into UNTREATED impregnated log surface End for logs and beams |
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