The quality of the foundation largely determines the service life decorative coating. So that the characteristics of the poured layer do not cause complaints, the floor screed mixture must be selected correctly. Manufacturers offer ready-made solutions that allow you to form a solid and reliable main surface for the selected decorative material. If the cost seems excessive, the solution is easy to prepare yourself. You just need to know what the proportions of the components are. However, such a decision is not always justified in terms of time and labor costs.
A lot depends on the screed
The advantage of ready-made formulations
Ready-made or self-prepared floor screed mix? Many people ask this question. Before answering it for yourself, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the benefits provided by ready-made mixtures. They should include:
- The exact composition taken care of by the manufacturer. The cement-sand mixture is already prepared for the floor screed, and there is no need to worry about dosing the components. It is enough to pour in the required volume of water, and then mix everything thoroughly until a homogeneous solution is obtained using a special construction mixer.
- Ability to buy everything you need at once. All components are already added to the mixture, and therefore you do not need to look for anything. If the DSP prepares itself, there is a risk of some difficulties. It is easy to buy cement in bags in the city, but buying the required amount of sand can be an impossible task.
- Availability. In every hardware store various mixtures are sold.
- Less weight. The dry mix for floor screed has a lower density, as manufacturers introduce substances into the composition that help improve operational loads. As a result, load-bearing structures take less load, and therefore the requirements for them are reduced.
- Possibility to prepare a small amount if required, for example, to repair cracks on the surface of the base.
- The possibility of forming a layer of small thickness. Conventional DSP involves the formation of a layer having a thickness of at least 3 cm. At lower values, the risk of cracking increases sharply. The introduction of special components improves the process of solidification of the solution. As a result, it becomes possible to form a layer with a thickness of 5 mm.
- High performance. Thanks to optimization and the introduction of special components, manufacturers increase the strength characteristics of the formed layer. On sale there are brands with self-leveling properties. Their drying rate is much higher than that of self-prepared mixtures.
- Due to the use of finely dispersed components, the quality of leveling of the formed surface is improved.
Attention! Ready-made building mixes for the floor are presented in a fairly wide range, and therefore it will not be difficult to choose the right option for specific operating conditions.
Always excellent result Existing species
Dry building mixtures, depending on the binder used, are conditionally divided into two groups: cement and gypsum. Each species has its distinctive features taken into account when choosing suitable option for home.
Cement
Cement-sand mixture is optimal for floor screed. In its preparation, finely dispersed cement traditionally acts as a binder. To ensure the desired performance characteristics are introduced various fillers. Except natural materials artificial ones are also used. With the help of the latter, they often provide fairly high performance.
DSP also contains plasticizers. Their role is to increase the plasticity of the solution. The usual composition when pouring a thin layer during solidification often cracks. With the introduction of a certain amount of plasticizer, a relatively thin layer is formed without the risk of damage during solidification.
cement mix Ready mixes for screed are additionally divided into solutions for:
- Rough work. To reduce the cost and impart the required properties, granite chips or crushed composition are introduced into the mixture. Such mixtures are in demand if the floor level is to be raised to a great height, sometimes reaching half a meter. After pouring and complete solidification, a finishing layer is formed on top, leveling the main surface.
- Finishing work. To create them, manufacturers use only finely dispersed fillers, as well as modern plasticizers that reduce the risk of cracking. The result is a perfectly smooth surface that can be used without additional processing and is suitable for laying. a large number plasticizers. With their help, as a rule, a layer with a thickness of not more than 10 mm is formed.
- Surface leveling. They are also called self-leveling compounds. To ensure that the formed surface immediately turns out to be perfectly smooth, and the solution easily spreads over the surface, they contain a fine filler with particles up to 300 microns and additives that endow the solution with leveling properties.
- Warm floor. They have good thermal conductivity and at the same time withstand constant temperature fluctuations. Manufacturers endow such mixtures with plasticity and inertness, and therefore they successfully cope with the task assigned to them.
Attention! After a solution designed to perform rough work, laying linoleum or laminate is not possible due to the presence of defects on the surface.
Gypsum
Dry floor screed - gypsum mixture. Such a dry mix for screed has the main undeniable advantage - it dries quickly. In addition, it has an affordable price.
Gypsum mixture The advantages of gypsum mixture include:
- the ability to retain heat well enough;
- excellent soundproofing characteristics that prevent the penetration of sounds from the lower floors into the apartment;
- dustlessness.
Gypsum building mixtures for floor screed include fine-grained filler, as well as special mineral fibers that increase the strength characteristics of the formed layer.
Attention! It is worth remembering that pouring gypsum mortar in a room with high humidity is unacceptable.
Dry screed
Due to the large amount of dirt generated during the work, some people refuse to install a wet screed. In addition, this type has a limitation with low strength of the supporting structure. A dry mix for screed does not have such disadvantages.
It forms a layer on the base with any surface and works equally well on concrete and on wooden surface. Considering that when installing a dry screed, wet work is not carried out, such a system is ready for use immediately after backfilling is completed.
Attention! For comparison: it takes 4 weeks for a standard screed to dry, and 2 weeks for a plaster screed.
Dry screed When creating a dry screed, beacons are placed throughout the floor layer, along which the mixture is leveled. Logs are mounted, and then the mixture is poured, distributed over the surface, leveled with a rule and rammed. Top Mounted OSB board, which will be the basis for the finishing material.
Expanded polystyrene or expanded clay is introduced into the mixture, giving the system excellent noise and thermal insulation characteristics. Consumption is important: it is determined by the mixture for floor screed. If the layer is insufficient, the performance will be poor. The presence of a log excludes a direct effect on the filler, and therefore during operation it will not be compressed or pressed through. As a result, it will be possible to ensure the required service life. The required amount is calculated before installation.
Attention! The calculation of the amount of mixture for floor screed is performed for each square. Knowing the consumption per 1m2, calculate the total cost of installation work.
Self-levelling mortar Calculation features
Consumption is calculated after choosing a mixture for floor screed. Before installation, determine the consumption of dry mix per 1 square. This will allow you to pre-purchase the right amount of material. Before the calculation of the mixture for floor screed begins, it is advisable to decide which solution will be optimal for a particular room.
The first calculation option is as follows. To find the exact amount per 1 m2 of screed, perform the following steps:
- Measure the dimensions of the room. This is done to determine its exact area. If the room has a rectangular shape, it is enough to multiply its length and width. In other cases, you will have to remember the formulas for calculating the area of \u200b\u200bdifferent figures.
- The zero level is determined. To do this, find the highest point in the room, along which the rest will be aligned.
- The amount of space between the base and the zero level, which will be filled with the mixture, is determined. The resulting value is divided by the value indicated on the package.
You can also go the other way. To do this, you should carefully study the recommendations of the manufacturer. If it is known that with the help of 20 kg it is possible to raise the floor level by 10 cm, then, knowing the quadrature of a particular room, determine the required number of bags that will be required to fill a layer 10 cm high over the entire area of the room.
Thus, dry mixes for floor screed are presented in a wide range. You can already pick turnkey solution, which guarantees the formation of a layer with high performance characteristics. The manufacturer added and mixed the necessary components in advance so that the formed layer turned out to be strong and reliable with a relatively smaller thickness. When preparing the DSP on your own, you should mix the components in a strictly specified proportion so that repairs do not need to be done soon.
To use, it is necessary to make a measurement. If the level of difference is more than 20 mm, then cement-sand mixtures should be used.
Floor cement screed can't do without pre-training grounds. The floors are dismantled (if secondary housing), the surface is cleaned of sagging and various debris, all cracks and cracks are sealed with gypsum mortar.
The floor must be carefully treated with soil and after it is completely absorbed into the surface, it is necessary to fix the beacons to level the screed using a level and special tools for measuring the premises. The soil for each surface is selected individually.
Further, depending on the purpose of the room (bathroom or ordinary room), a certain mixture for the screed is selected, the price of which may differ, because. mixtures vary in composition and volume.
Screed features
If there is increased use and load on the floor in the premises, it is advisable to strengthen the screed with reinforcement. The composition of such a screed includes a mixture, cement, reinforcement or metal mesh. For large differences, it is advisable to use a dry Knauf screed, so as not to load the floor slab and save on leveling the floor.
When installing cement screeds from 5 cm and above, expanded clay can be used as a filler, thereby not heavily loading the floor slab, because. expanded clay is a fairly light material, and when mixed with a solution it becomes monolithic. Thus, we get an inexpensive draft floor with heat and sound insulation. When producing a screed with expanded clay, it is necessary to mix it with the solution and carefully compact it so that there are no voids, and the solution should not be liquid, like a self-leveling floor. Typically, expanded clay is used with a fraction of 3 to 7 cm.
Cement sand screed floor in the apartment
If leveling with a solution occurs in violation of technology, the symptoms will definitely appear:
The importance of adhering to pouring technology
- The screed "bumps", exfoliates;
- The surface of the floor was covered with cracks;
- The base is peeling and crumbling.
To avoid such problems and not to make repairs or dismantling, it is important to correctly apply the technology of filling the floor with a screed: for this, the base is carefully cleaned and primed with high quality. By the way, it is better to choose the soil with the addition of sand granules, the so-called "Concrete-contact". 
After the soil has dried, it is important to set up beacons. So that drying does not have to wait long, beacons for the screed can be set using a gypsum mortar. Before pouring, a damper tape is attached to the walls, which will compensate for the "movement" of the solution during its hardening. It is important to prepare the mixture in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations, especially not to overdo it with water. After leveling the floor, the next day it is recommended to lightly moisten the screed and cover it with plastic wrap for several days.
Thickness and mortar calculation
To correctly calculate screed, you need to know its thickness and more accurately this can be done using a level. Measurement and production of the screed must be done by a professional. As for materials, there are many different dry mixes on the market now, but not every mix is suitable for the job, so a serious approach is needed in choosing.
Not enough to buy good material it is important to know how to work with it.
Dry mix for cement screed
For the screed device, you will need a dry cement-based mixture. Dry cement mixtures Sold in packs of 25, 30, 40 and 50 kg. To determine what mixture and how much is needed to level the floor, you need to measure using a laser level to determine the thickness of the future screed and after that choose the appropriate material and quantity needed for a given area. Dry mix for the floor can be prepared in containers using a construction mixer or in a concrete mixer. All dry mixes have a shelf life and must be stored under certain conditions.
Dry mixes for floor screed brands Eunice, Knauf, Osnovit, Rusean, Prospectors are in special demand when leveling the floor due to their good quality and affordable price.
How long does the screed dry
Complete drying of the floor screed depends on its thickness and material. When installing gypsum-based self-leveling floors, drying is ensured within 4 hours, and after a few days any coating can already be laid. In the case of screeds from cement mortars, complete drying occurs after 2-3 weeks, and if there is no time, then a dry Knauf screed is usually chosen, because. immediately after installation, the floor is ready for laying laminate and other finishes.
To level the floor surface with high quality and without leaks, it is better to entrust this work to specialists:
Cement screed, or as it is also called "traditional screed", is rightfully considered the most reliable and economical in terms of cash costs. It is very often used indoors. for various purposes, for example: in apartments, country houses, cafes, offices, shops, garages and so on. As the basis of such a cement-sand screed, a dry mix (sand concrete) M-150 or M-300 is used. And how much of this mixture for the screed is needed? Calculation of sand concrete for floor screed presented below.
Calculation of the mixture for floor screed
First of all, you need to measure the room. With the help of a laser level and a tape measure, we measure and measure the entire room and see where the differences are. We calculate how much m 2 we need to do, then we consider all the building materials necessary for work. It is especially important to correctly calculate the amount of dry mix required.
Example:
We need to make a screed in a room with an area 25 m2 thick 5 cm
.
On 1 m 2 at thickness 1 cm leaves about 22 kg mixtures.
Multiply 5 cm screeds on 22 kg mixture (5 x 22 = 110). Means 110 kg will weigh 1 m 2 our 5 cm screed.
Now 25 m2 multiply by 110 kg mixture (25 x 110 = 2750). Means 2 750
kg will weigh a screed of 5 cm on an area of 25 m 2.
Further 2 750
kg divided by the weight of a bag of dry mix (2,750kg: 50kg = 55). Means 55
mix bags weighing 50 kg we'll need.
The rest of the material is considered easily by floor area.
For the screed device we need:
- Profile for lighthouses;
- Dry mix M-150 or M-300;
- Primer or concrete contact;
- Reinforcing mesh (used on a loose basis);
- Edge tape;
- Vapor barrier film (on the second or third day it is necessary to spill the screed with water and cover with a film for 7 days). The process can be repeated again.
Note that a higher brand of the mixture indicates that the mixture contains more cement. Pure cement is marked M-500. Therefore, the higher the brand of dry mix, the stronger the screed will be.
Cement-sand screed hardens (gaining strength) within 30 days, during which time only tiles can be laid on it, other floor coverings can be installed after 30 days. The fact is that the moisture that is in the screed will be absorbed and ruin the coating. If the thickness of the screed is more than 5 cm, then we recommend using expanded clay on the bottom layer. It is light and will allow you to remove the total weight of the screed, therefore, the load on the floor slab will decrease.
When the sand concrete for the floor screed and other material is calculated and delivered to the facility, the master starts work. First of all, the floor slab is prepared for pouring the screed, that is, it is cleaned of all kinds of debris and primed. When the primer dries, we attach the edge tape to the wall, it is needed to relieve the tension of the screed. We install beacons with a pre-measured height. If it is necessary to use a reinforcing mesh, it must be lifted and fixed just below the center of the floor screed itself.
Preparing the mixture: 10 kg of dry mixture should be poured into 0.8 - 1.3 l clean water and stir until a homogeneous mass without lumps with a construction mixer. The resulting mixture should be used within 1 hour.
Pour the finished mixture and tighten it with an even rail along the beacons, until the room is completely filled. After 2-3 days after pouring the screed, it must be shed with water and covered with a film. We withstand the screed for 30 days and the screed is ready for further use!
An even base of the floor is a guarantee that the finish coat will lay down beautifully and last for many years. This is especially true for materials such as or tiles. In order for the base to become perfectly even, it is necessary to carry out a number of procedures. Cement-sand floor screed is an opportunity to create not only a smooth and even, but also a solid foundation. However, the work on filling it is not as simple as it seems at first glance. Let's figure out how to create such a screed yourself.
A screed made from a mortar that is made from sand and cement is an almost perfectly even base that is suitable for laying absolutely any floor covering, be it tile, laminate, linoleum or parquet. It is with the help of such a screed that the rough bases are most often leveled - concrete floors in houses, brick floors and even just create a base lying on ordinary soil. On average, the thickness of a cement-sand screed varies from 3 to 8 cm. It can be more, but due to the large weight of the mortar used for pouring, the strength of the floors must also be taken into account when calculating the thickness of the screed.
The main tasks of the screed are not only to level the surface, but also that it will redistribute the loads experienced by the floor, create solid foundation, will make it possible to equip heat and waterproof layers, and even in itself is an excellent option for heat and waterproofing. Within this structure, one can put different kinds communications, equip, etc.
On a note! Certain types of screed, which are called self-leveling floors will help to realize the most daring design solutions. Such floors can be of different colors or have a very interesting pattern. Special compositions make it possible to create on the floor.
Advantages and Features
Cement-sand screed has a lot of advantages. This applies to its physical and physico-chemical parameters.
Advantages of sand-cement screed.
But, like any other method of leveling the floor, the cement-sand screed has its drawbacks, which you should be aware of before installing this type of base. The disadvantages of a cement-sand screed are given below.
- Significant Mass. A cement screed exerts significant pressure on the floors, and therefore its use may be limited by this factor. For example, 1m 2 of cement-sand screed, laid with a layer of 1 cm, weighs about 20 kg.
- Long drying time. Before you can safely move along the screed and carry out further finishing of the floor, it is necessary to dry it well. Drying time is long - about a month.
- It is difficult to achieve a smooth surface by hand. Fortunately, if this was not possible, but evenness is necessary, the screed can be poured over with a self-leveling mixture.
- Complicated installation. Filling the screed is a very complex process, which is often carried out with the help of strangers. The work, of course, can be done independently, but it is important to follow all the steps and key points while pouring the screed. Otherwise, it will crack.
In any case, a properly filled screed is great option grounds for any type finish coat. In addition, after drying during operation, it is easy to clean, not even covered with a finish, and is also not afraid of water.
Types of cement screeds
There are a large number of ways to make such a screed. However, the main ones can be distinguished - connected and unrelated screeds and floating.
Method screed tied is used if the allowable leveling layer can be up to 4 cm thick. The base becomes, as it were, one with the floor and walls. This variant of the screed needs careful preliminary preparation of the rough base - all large holes, cracks, cracks in the floors are sealed, all significant irregularities are removed as much as possible. If there are small tubercles or pits on the surface of the floor, then they do not need to be sealed. Builders even recommend artificially coarsening freshly laid floors by walking on them. wire brush- thus, the adhesion of the solution to the surface will be better.
The solution for pouring the screed should have the consistency of sour cream or cake cream. It turns out to be quite liquid and about 20 minutes after pouring it will begin to gradually solidify. Therefore, it is necessary to fill in and arrange the screed during this time.
Attention! Large rooms are usually filled in stages, since it is not possible for one person to quickly level such an amount of the mixture.
You can carefully walk around the room the very next day, but the drying time of such a screed is long - up to 40 days. It is important to properly dry such a base - it is impossible for water to quickly evaporate from the layer, it should come out gradually, therefore it is recommended to moisten a fresh screed with water and cover it with a film.
Eat screed unbound, which, on the contrary, is mounted on an ideal smooth surface. In this case, the base should not have water-absorbing properties, so as not to draw moisture out of the screed. The thickness of such a layer can reach 5 cm. The main difference from the previous type is that the primer is not used before pouring such a screed. Also, no methods are used that can increase the adhesion strength of the mortar and the rough base.
Floor screed - mortar and grout
Also, the so-called floating screed. It is usually used if its thickness should be 5-7 cm. The design of such a layer is different in that it does not even directly come into contact with the rough base - on the contrary, layers of hydro and thermal insulation are laid between the solution and it, various materials, which simply will not allow the solution to gain a foothold on the floor.
Attention! It is this type of screed that is most often strengthened with the help of. Also, it can be added to the solution to increase its strength, reduce the risk of cracking and reduce the risk of shrinkage.
Such a screed, due to its large thickness, could have Weight Limit, however, it is poured using the so-called semi-dry technology. That is, the solution is kneaded using a small amount of water and resembles wet sand in structure.
Proportions of cement and sand
Depending on which screed option is selected, the composition of the mixture for its manufacture is also determined. The proportions of the two main components are selected depending on what brand of cement will be used and what quality of sand. To equip the screed in the apartment, it is enough to use cement M200. The finished base will be able to withstand a significant load - about 200 kg / cm 3. You can take 1 part of M500 cement and mix it with 3 parts of sand. And you will need as much water as it is necessary to achieve the desired consistency with the solution. This is approximately 1 liter per 1 kg of cement.
Attention! You do not need to add a lot of water, as the solution will become of less quality from this.
It is very important to choose the right sand to create the mortar. It should not contain (or at a minimum contain) various inclusions - silt, clay, etc. These components adversely affect the strength characteristics of the finished screed. It is best to use washed river sand. Quarry sand is also suitable, but its quality is somewhat worse than river sand due to the angular shape of the sand grains.
Table. The composition of the mixtures according to GOST when using cement M400, wt. h.
| Solution grade | Cement | Water | Sand |
|---|---|---|---|
| 150 | 1 | 0,55 | 3 |
| 200 | 1 | 0,48 | 2,8 |
| 300 | 1 | 0,4 | 2,4 |
Floor screed mortar ingredient calculator
Cement-sand floor screed is considered the easiest to perform, although the heaviest of all existing types.
The weight of 1 m² with a thickness of 1 cm is equal to an average of 16-20 kg. For example: polystyrene or expanded clay concrete screeds weigh no more than 18 kg, and from bulk self-leveling mixtures - up to 16 kg.
If the differences in the base do not exceed 3 cm, then the screed described below is The best decision. Judge for yourself: it is durable, reliable, extremely easy to perform (even a beginner can do it) and is quite cheap. The filling procedure itself consists of several stages.
A cement-sand layer with a thickness of about 70 mm is poured over the concrete base. If compacted soil serves as the basis, then the thickness should be greater - from 120 mm. The procedure for pouring the solution on a plank base has already been discussed in an article about concrete screed on the wooden floor.
It is unacceptable to make a screed with a thickness of less than 30 mm, otherwise the material will begin to crack and peel off.
Note! If the differences in the base are within 100-200 mm, and the screed will still be made of cement and sand, then it is recommended to use expanded clay as a leveling base.
The technical parameters of the screed, as well as the basic requirements, are in SNiP 2.03.13-88 and 3.04.01-87.
It is worth noting that the described screed has some drawbacks, which must be taken into account even at the stage of calculations. These disadvantages include:
- long drying time (about 28 days if the work was carried out in winter time, then more);
- limited layer thickness;
- dampness and dirt generated during work;
But, despite all the disadvantages, the cement-sand screed is very popular, especially among novice builders.
Stage two. markup
First you need to put the horizon line on the walls. It is recommended to use for this laser level, but in its absence, an ordinary water hose is suitable (this is a transparent hose that is filled with water).
The procedure for determining the horizon line in this case is extremely simple. A level is placed on a solid surface, then the air bubble must be driven into the center of the flask. The laser is activated and the point indicated by the beam is marked. If a modern expensive device is used, it will display a line, which will greatly simplify the procedure. Then the laser turns to the next corner, in which a point is also marked. When similar points are marked at all corners, they (the points) must be beaten off with a coated thread, and then the horizon should be beaten off.
This markup is difficult to perform, but if everything is done correctly, the results will be as accurate as possible. First you need to take the ends of the hose and pour water inside (preferably settled - there are not so many air bubbles). It is necessary that the water fills the entire level and does not reach the ends of about 10-15 cm. Each of the ends sway from top to bottom, while the water should be at the same level. If this is not the case, then the hose is either bent somewhere or dirty. It is also necessary to remove the detected air bubbles.
Further on the wall is a mark a few millimeters long. One end of the level is pressed against this mark, and it is 10-15 cm higher than it. The second end is placed by an assistant in the second corner of the room at approximately the same height. The first end moves up and down until the mark on the wall matches the surface of the water. Further, when the water calms down, the assistant makes a mark from his side. Similarly, the assistant marks the remaining corners, the first end at this time remains in the same place.
Using a tape measure at each corner, measure the distance between the marks and the floor to determine the highest point of the base. After that, the marks are connected by means of a coated thread and the horizon is beaten off.
Further markup
Trial measurements are made from the horizon to the base, if possible, all detected protrusions are removed. From the smaller measurement, the thickness of the future structure is subtracted, which includes a cement layer, a primer (if the pouring is done on concrete) and expanded clay backfill (if the soil serves as the base). The resulting distance is measured from the horizon line by means of a tape measure. The marks are connected by the same thread, another horizon line (finishing floor) is beaten off. If you wish, you can separately mark each of the layers of the structure.
Stage three. Preparation
If the base is concrete, then it is cleared of the previous screed.
After that, dirt is removed from the surface, then a primer mixture is applied to concrete foundations. The procedure for applying a primer is extremely simple: the mixture is poured onto the floor and leveled around the entire perimeter with a brush or roller.
Soil - description and application
The soil base is covered with a layer of expanded clay (the thickness depends on the height of the drops), after which a sandy “cushion” 10 cm thick is poured in. All this is carefully compacted, if necessary, moistened with water for more effective shrinkage.
Note! With a layer of expanded clay, the cost of the screed will decrease markedly, since a smaller amount of mortar will be required.
By the way, at the same stage, the wiring of water and sewer pipes is carried out.
Stage four. thermal insulation
For screed on the ground, thermal insulation is required, while for a concrete base, you can do without it. As a heater, both the expanded clay backfill described above and foam plastic slabs can serve. The main thing is the rigidity of the material.
Stage five. Waterproofing
For rooms with high humidity (such as a bathhouse, kitchen, bathroom), additional waterproofing may be required, which is often used as a dense film. The material is laid with an overlap of 100-150 mm, as well as with an approach to the walls and sewer drains (if any) by 100 mm. The joints are reinforced with adhesive tape, the same applies to the entrances to the walls.
Note! If pipes and drains are entered, then the latter should be treated with sealant at least to the level of pouring the solution.
Stage six. Reinforcement
Reinforcement of the screed with reinforcement is required if the pouring will be carried out on the ground. For this, a special steel mesh is used or reinforcing bars are welded (the dimensions of the formed cells should be approximately 150x150 mm).
There is another option - instead of a bulky mesh that increases the weight of the structure, fiber can be added to the solution. This material consists of polymer fibers arranged randomly, which achieves ultimate strength in all directions. The proportions are indicated by the fiber manufacturer on the packaging.
Stage seven. Installation of beacons
Immediately make a reservation that for further work it is desirable to apply the aluminum rule. This is explained by the fact that wooden rule will not provide the required quality. Beacons themselves can be:
- mortar;
- from profiles (rack).
Let's consider each of the options.
Note! If the screed is made with a slope (for example, towards the drain), then beacons must be installed under the same slope.
The easiest option, but only experienced specialists can make a screed using such beacons. The algorithm of actions should be as follows.
| Step, No. | Description | Illustration |
|---|---|---|
| Step 1 | Using a perforator, a couple of holes for dowels are drilled. The first should be located in a corner about 20-30 cm from end wall(relative to future lighthouses) and 30-40 cm from the longitudinal. The second hole is similarly made on the other side of the room. | |
| Step 2 | Dowels are driven into the holes and self-tapping screws are screwed in (the length of the latter should be equal to the height of the screed + 2.5-3 cm). | |
| Step 3 | A fishing line is taken and stretched between the lines of the lower horizon, the heads of the screws are leveled under it. | |
| Step 4 | A lace is stretched between the screws, after which several more pin beacons are installed according to the level. Auxiliary beacons are aligned under the lace. | |
| Step 5 | The required number of strips is set (the distance between them should be 15-20 cm less than the length of the rule), the heads of all self-tapping screws should be at the same level. The number of self-tapping screws in one strip is selected individually, although for experienced builders one pin is enough for 2-3 sq.m. gender. |
Instead of self-tapping screws screwed into concrete, “beds” are laid here from the same solution that will be used for pouring. Iron profiles are sunk into the "beds", the horizontalness is checked and, if necessary, adjustments are made. It is possible to level the beacons only within an hour after mixing the solution, because after that it will begin to harden.
This method has one drawback: it is impossible to make a monolithic screed using such beacons. In addition, it is necessary to wait for the complete setting of the beacon solution, otherwise it will not be possible to stretch the rule. Although, in principle, this cannot be attributed to disadvantages, since the quality of such a screed will be the same as that of a monolithic one.
By the way, some masters can do without lighthouses at all.
Cement-sand screed without beacons (continued)
Cement-sand screed without beacons (completion)
Video - Installation of lighthouses
Stage eight. damper tape
To isolate the screed from the surface of the walls, you can use a "shop" damper tape, or you can use improvised materials. There can be no problems with laying the "store" version, so let's focus on a home-made damper tape.
Note! The damper tape is necessary not only to protect the walls from moisture, but also to prevent rupture of the screed under the action of internal stress.
Step 1. If the waterproofing material was previously laid on the walls, this step should be skipped. If the material does not fit, then the following steps must be performed. From polyethylene film or roofing felt (minimum thickness - 0.2 mm), strips 30-40 mm wide are cut and fastened so that one side goes onto the walls to the required height, and the other remains on the base. The tape is fixed liquid nails every 20-50 cm, although mounting foam can also be used.
Step 2 Any rolled heat insulator of the Izolon type with a thickness of 1 cm is cut into strips of 8-15 cm and glued point by point over the waterproofing material - this will serve as a damper connection.
Step 3 As a result, the hardened screed will not stick to the walls, and thanks to Izolon, all linear expansions of the material will be extinguished.
Stage nine. Solution
There are several ways to obtain a cement-sand mixture.
| How to obtain | Description | Photo |
|---|---|---|
| Method one. | You can order the finished mixture in a mixer - it is inexpensive, but it has good quality. Although, with a large pouring area, it will be necessary to order the solution in several parts, which will significantly increase the cost of the service. Eat Alternative option- order a concrete pump, but it costs more. | |
| Method two. | You can also order a dry mix in bags and dilute it with water already on the spot. This also requires considerable costs, since a 25-kilogram bag will cost about 150-200 rubles, or even more. | |
| Method three. | Finally, you can mix cement with sand with your own hands, choosing one of several technologies. The procedure is difficult, but the most budgetary. |
Wet screed
To prepare the solution, it is necessary to mix sand with cement in a ratio of 3: 1 and pour it all with water (50x50).
The algorithm of actions should be as follows.
Step 1. Cement is mixed with sand using a trowel.
Step 2 A tank with a capacity of not more than 30 liters is filled with water, after which the dry mixture is carefully added there.
Step 3 The solution is mixed with an electric drill with a mixer attachment. If desired, a plasticizer is added to improve the plasticity of the screed.
Step 4. Upon reaching the consistency of thick sour cream, kneading stops. To check the readiness, you need to take a small amount of the mixture in a fist: if it does not break up and does not spread, then you can start pouring. Such a solution is poured directly onto the base and carefully leveled (all this must be done in a maximum of 1-1.5 hours).
Semi-dry screed
To prepare a screed, in this case, you will need high-quality cement (at least “five hundredth”), specific proportions depend on its brand.
Table. The proportions of the preparation of the solution
We will focus on the M200 solution, which is used most often. For one room, about 8 bags of cement will be required, provided that the thickness of the screed does not exceed 5 cm. Mixing is carried out directly on the floor, on top of which a sheet of metal is laid. This technology known as the "Volcano" - a semi-dry solution is kneaded along it.
Step 1. A bag of sand (50 kg) is poured out, on top - a third of a bag of dry cement. The components are mixed with a spade.
Semi-dry floor screed - components
Step 2 Another bag of sand is poured out and the same amount of cement; then the procedure is repeated a third time, after which the mixture is mixed.
Step 3 In the formed hill, with the help of a shovel, a “crater” is made, where water is poured. After thorough mixing, you can start pouring.
Note! A good solution should be grey. The presence of a reddish tint indicates that too much sand has been added.
Stage ten. fill
Laying starts from the corner opposite the door. First, about 50 cm of mortar is laid, then the rule is stretched.
The work must be carried out continuously, that is, at least two people will be required - one will knead the solution, the other will do the laying.
When pouring the solution, you need to try to ensure that all the cracks are filled as much as possible. When smoothing, you should ensure that the rule slides along the guides with ease, as if on rails. The strips between the "beds", located opposite the doorway, are filled last. After pouring, all the bumps are knocked down with a spatula, then the surface is rubbed with a wooden grater until it acquires the required roughness and uniformity.
Cement screed - manufacturing
Now you can start grouting. To do this, you need to prepare a solution of cement, sand (1: 1) and water. When grouting, the screed should be periodically sprayed with water. At the end of the grouting, the quality is checked, all detected irregularities are eliminated.
Video - Filling the screed
Stage eleven. Caring for cement-sand screed
After a day, the film is removed and the guides are removed; the resulting strobes are sealed with a solution and overwritten. The screed is wetted with water and re-covered with a film.
After 9 days, when the screed has reached ¾ of its capacity, it will be possible to walk on the floor. The excess damper layer is cut off.
After 28 days, the surface will gain brand power, but flooring can't lay yet for a reason high humidity. Within a few days, the surface is artificially dried, then you can start finishing.
