Main purpose steel door– protection of the home from burglary. However, in addition to its main function - “guard”, a well-insulated metal door makes a significant contribution to the overall energy efficiency of the house. Heat loss through a drafty and freezing doorway, an uninsulated door and an ineffective ventilation system without a recuperator can reach up to 20%. Based on this, the importance of installing a reliable and high-quality steel door becomes clear. This article discusses how to insulate a metal door.
Why is there a vestibule at the entrance?
To entry group has become energy efficient, you need to install two doors - an outdoor steel one that opens outward, and a second one - an internal one, a simple wooden one that opens inside the house. In this case, an air gap is formed between them, and air, as is known, is the best heat insulator. Such a tandem will keep the house warm and will also protect inner door from freezing and fogging in severe frosts.
However, homeowners do not always have the opportunity to equip a full-fledged vestibule.
Also, due to lack of funds, inexpensive doors that are not of high quality are often installed at the entrance area. Result: such a design and a metal frame freezes from the inside of the room in cold weather, until ice forms, and seeps through from the cracks between the door leaf and the frame.
Accordingly, the money spent on heating goes down the drain. The way out of this situation can be self-insulation. metal door and, just as important, the door frame.
Step one - choose a seal
In any business, to obtain a high-quality result, you must first develop a plan. This thesis is especially relevant when conducting construction work. Therefore, before taking on insulation, first of all we inspect the doorway. With a low-quality door, due to a loose seal between the door leaf and the frame, cold street air from outside enters the house.
Beer69 User FORUMHOUSE
You should not chase the large thickness of the door and, accordingly, the size of the insulation layer inside it. The main thing is how to insulate a metal entrance door – this is the clear geometry of the “frame-door” assembly, which depends on the thickness of the leaf and stiffening ribs. Street frost passes to a greater extent through the junction unit (the gap between the leaf and the frame), and not through the door leaf. The best performance is achieved when installing a double box with two sealing circuits.
Even the number of locks and their locations affect the tightness of the fabric to the rubber seal. Optimally when door locks(2 pcs.) are located slightly below and slightly above the middle of the canvas.
From the point of view of frost resistance, best type The lock device is a lock with a lever (pack of plates) type of mechanism.
Polinka User FORUMHOUSE
On inexpensive doors, the wind often blows between the door leaf and the frame. To eliminate this, you need to lay a high-quality self-adhesive seal around the entire perimeter.
The main purpose of the seal is to seal the joint between the door and the door frame. This prevents frost, extraneous noise, dust and wind from entering the room.
If, as a result of examining the seal, it turns out that it does not fulfill its function: it is damaged, has lost its elasticity, or is laid incorrectly, then it must be replaced. Before you go to the store to buy a sealant, you need to:
- choose the material of the seal;
- determine the thickness of the seal;
- choose the shape of the seal profile.
The seal can be made from:
- rubber;
- silicone;
- polyurethane;
- plastic;
- foam rubber.
Most often, rubber seals are used to seal the door-frame junction. They are characterized by durability, resistance to adverse weather conditions, and low cost. Silicone sealant has similar qualities. Polyurethane self-adhesive seals have become widespread due to their ease of installation.
It is also important to choose a sealant of the desired thickness and profile. To do this, you need to measure the size of the gap between the door leaf and the frame. As a guide, you can adhere to the following rules:
- If the gap does not exceed one to three mm, then you can choose a rectangular seal.
- If the gap is 3 mm, you can choose a seal with a C, K, or E-shaped profile.
- When the gap is from 3 to 5 mm, a seal with a P or V profile shape is used.
- If the gap is more than 5 mm, then a seal with profile shape O or D is installed.
If the seal is glued with silicone glue, then before applying the glue, the surface must be cleaned of the old seal and degreased. Special attention When gluing the seal, it is necessary to pay attention to the corners, because When cutting the seal, gaps may remain in them.
Step two - insulate door frame
Many novice developers believe that it is enough to buy and install a well-insulated metal door, and the entrance area will become energy efficient. Often overlooked is such a factor as the most powerful bridge of cold, which is a metal door frame.
Warm and dry User FORUMHOUSE
I “looked” at the door frame through a thermal imager and was surprised at how much it stood out in color against the general background of a well-insulated door. I had previously assumed that the metal froze strongly, but now I am convinced of how great the heat loss is in this unit. The box needs to be insulated. The only question is how to do it.
IN Lately Metal structures with thermal breaks are gaining popularity. In this case, the inner and outer surfaces of the canvas and the box are separated from each other by a material with low thermal conductivity. As a result, the cold bridge is eliminated.
Using the principle of thermal break, you can modify the metal door frame of a cheap door. To do this, the metal (metal box) is insulated from warm room. This can be done by installing an additional wooden frame and platband. As an option, first glue the contour of the metal box with a heat-insulating strip of isolon.
SergeiSt User FORUMHOUSE
The insulation inside a steel door is needed more for sound insulation than for thermal insulation. Therefore, in the fight for energy efficiency, it is necessary to close all metal parts of the door from inside a warm room. This is exactly what we do, closing and isolating the metal circuit (door frame) with a wooden panel with a rubber seal.
What such a knot looks like can be clearly seen in this figure.
Also, a wooden box, due to the texture of the wood, ennobles the entrance area.
In addition to the above-described method of how to insulate an iron door, an option for insulating a door frame is often proposed, such as foaming its internal cavity. To do this, holes are drilled around the perimeter of the steel frame, through which polyurethane foam is injected inside from a can. Let's conduct an experiment to understand whether this method is justified. Let's take any metal pipe, fill it and put it out in the cold. Let's leave it for a while and then touch the metal with our hand.
Polyurethane foam, when expanded, can lead to deformation of the door frame or stain the door leaf. You also need to remember that polyurethane foam can get into the deadbolt cavity and, when dry, jam the crossbars and damage the lock.
Andrey-AA User FORUMHOUSE
I decided to insulate the metal front door in the country house by foaming the door frame polyurethane foam. Foamed from the heart. As a result, foam through small cracks hit the crossbars and froze. Trying to open the door, I first broke the key, then I decided to drill out the lock or even break the door open with a crowbar. Having calmed down somewhat and thought, I opened the box with a grinder and, sticking my hand in, pushed the bolts out with my fingers. Until the end of the frozen foam flowed out of the slot. I had to, in order not to spoil the canvas, to glueits cellophane and construction tape. Then I waited for all the foam to dry so that it could be removed from the crossbar cavity with a chisel.
Conclusion: you need to be careful with foaming the box!
Andrey 203 User FORUMHOUSE
Foaming the box improves sound insulation to a greater extent than serves the purpose of insulation. This should only be done with the door open and then, before closing it, wait until the foam has completely hardened. After that, the holes for the crossbars need to be cleaned with a drill, or a narrow chisel or other tool.
Step three - insulate the door leaf
Having completed the previous two steps, we proceed directly to insulating the door structure. There are two options here:
- Internal insulation of the door cavity. Why does the door need to be removed and disassembled.
- If the door cannot be disassembled, then it will have to be insulated along the surface of the leaf.
In the first option, we do the following:
- We're filming.
- Dismantling decorative panel.
- We insert foam plastic or extruded polystyrene foam into the cavities (between the stiffening ribs).
- We foam the cracks and install the decorative panel back.
- Let's put it in place.
A door insulated in this way can be covered with clapboard, artificial leather glued on, and finished with a brushed board. There is a wide scope for creativity here. You should not drill holes in the door leaf and try to foam it from the inside or pour granular foam into the cavity through these holes. If you insulate a metal entrance door blindly, such an upgrade can lead to jamming and failure of the locking mechanism.
If the metal door leaf cannot be carefully removed without destroying it (it is rolled), then the insulation will have to be mounted on top of the door.
WAAD User FORUMHOUSE
The forum member did this - first he drilled holes and foamed it carefully door frame, which ensured its 100% sealing and increased sound insulation. The outer part of the door was covered with advertising film. Then on this film with liquid nails glued extruded polystyrene foam 2 cm thick.
Sticking the film on the door will allow you to dismantle the insulation in the future without the time-consuming operation of removing glue from the door leaf. The film is easily separated if heated with an industrial hair dryer.
Also, as a temporary option, for emergencies or emergencies, you can temporarily “insulate” the entrance to the house in this way.
From within, in doorway, a thick and heavy fabric is hung, which is folded to the side when leaving or entering the house. It should look like a curtain or curtain. The fabric is hung not close to the door, but at a small distance from it (5-10 cm). If the depth of the opening allows, then you can hang two curtains, also at a short distance from each other. It turns out to be a mini vestibule. Due to the air gap, heat from the house will not escape outside.
A metal garage is the easiest option to hide your car from bad weather and intruders. Naturally, you need to make it warm to make your stay in the “stall” of your favorite vehicle comfortable. How to insulate an ordinary metal unheated garage? Nowadays it is customary to perform insulation with classical materials. Although the construction market is ready to offer a lot of new products that have excellent characteristics in terms of thermal insulation. Therefore, the problem of insulating a metal garage is easy to solve. But let’s look in more detail at how to do it correctly and how to perform insulation.
Advanced car enthusiasts who decide to do it with their own hands prefer to use the following insulator options as materials:
- Polyurethane foam. To apply polyurethane foam to the surface, special equipment is required. However, only such material allows for truly high-quality insulation, and for many decades. This The best way achieve your goal.
- Penoizol. This is what is called liquid foam. It is also durable, it is not afraid of moisture and high temperatures.
- Astratek. Another liquid heat insulator applied with a brush. A millimeter layer of astratek retains as much heat as thick mineral wool. Disadvantage: high consumption (about half a liter per square meter of metal).
Each of the listed materials for garage insulation It is quite effective, but usually the car owner is forced to abandon it due to its high cost. Therefore, much more often a metal garage is insulated using the most accessible material, namely polystyrene foam.
Insulation of the walls of a metal garage
Let's look at how to insulate a metal garage from the inside, and do it entirely with your own hands. All work must be performed adhering to a certain scheme. First you need to make a frame, inside of which the insulator slabs will then be laid.
To begin with, you should make sure you have a certain tool. It is impossible to get by with such a thing as insulation own garage, without drill, screwdriver, hacksaw, grinder. When everything is collected that is necessary, you can begin the insulation process.
First you need to mount a frame from guides and a profile, using the material that is taken for manufacturing plasterboard partitions. The guides are fastened with dowels, and the profile is secured to them with special hangers.
After garage insulation, it is not necessary to use plasterboard to cover the thermal insulation; asbestos fiber is also suitable for this purpose. The material perfectly resists fire, but is fragile. Because of this, it is required to carry out a distance between the racks a little less.
After completing the installation of the frame, a heater should be placed between the racks. We recommend using a classic heat insulator - glass wool or mineral wool slabs. This material perfectly retains heat, it does not ignite. But a cheaper option, polystyrene foam, is a flammable substance that releases toxic components when ignited. If the step between the racks is made according to the width of the mineral slabs, their installation will be simple and will not require additional adjustment. The final stage of insulation is securing the vapor barrier material with tape and installing the cladding.
Foam plastic is recognized as the cheapest material for insulating the walls of a metal garage from the inside. Before using glue to attach this material, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the internal surfaces of the building from rust and the slightest dirt, then be sure to degrease the metal. This way the fastening will be of better quality. When the foam sheets have already been glued, it is advisable to blow out the cracks between them using a can of polyurethane foam. Next, you can cover the insulation layer with any finishing material.
Insulation of metal garage doors
Having decided to make a high-quality insulation of a metal garage, you should make sure that the gates do not allow cold into the room. Experienced car enthusiasts recommend making the entrance door in the gate leaf, then you won’t have to open them completely when entering. In addition, a special curtain should be installed from the inside in front of the gate to prevent heat leakage from the room.
An excellent material for organizing the task at hand is transparent plastic or plastic film (certainly thick). Having cut the selected version of the protective curtain into long strips, they are stapled to a wooden strip fixed above the gate from the inside. Each fixed strip must be one and a half centimeters apart from its neighbor, then when the car leaves, they will deviate and then return back, preventing heat from escaping outside.
However, just a curtain is not enough; the door leaf itself also needs to be insulated protective material. Typically, foam is used for this purpose, which can be fixed to metal using glue.
You can cover the outside of the foam with anything:
- clapboard;
- plywood;
- plastic.
To prevent cold penetration through the gaps around the perimeter of the gate, a rubber seal is used. To prevent condensation from appearing subsequently, it is advisable to treat the metal in the place where the rubber is glued with any anti-corrosion compound.
Ceiling insulation in a metal garage
When solving the problem of how to insulate an iron garage, you should definitely take care of the thermal insulation of the ceiling. It needs to be insulated not only from the inside, but also from the outside. Only then will it be possible to achieve the desired effect. If the outside is traditionally insulated with paint, then there are several ways to work from the inside:
- multi-layer painting of the ceiling with a heat-insulating agent;
- spraying liquid heat insulator;
- the use of mineral wool or polystyrene foam boards.
Having chosen the last option, as the cheapest, you should fasten the slabs with bitumen mastic. When using expanded polystyrene, you will additionally have to treat the seams with some kind of sealant. When using mineral wool, remember that it absorbs moisture, so it is necessary to protect its layer with waterproofing.
With a roof truss system, its insulation depends entirely on the design. When there is sufficient space between the rafters, insulation boards should be installed between them, and the waterproofing should be fixed on top. It is advisable to carry out such work at the construction stage - it will be easier and better to insulate the room.
If the pitch between the rafters is small, insulation should be laid underneath them. When there is an attic, it is most practical to fill it with expanded clay and then lay waterproofing material on top. The final stage of such insulation is pouring cement screed. However, high-quality thermal insulation interior space this will not be achieved - internal work must also be completed. Here everything depends only on the material that will be used:
- Foil polyethylene should be secured with slats directly to the ceiling. This material perfectly repels moisture. To get the maximum effect, you need to nail plywood or fiberboard over the slats.
- Mineral wool. First, you need to glue the waterproofing to the ceiling, then install the sheathing. Place mineral wool slabs in its gaps, protect them with a vapor barrier film and cover them with cladding.
- Expanded polystyrene. Glue the slabs to the ceiling using tile adhesive. To improve thermal insulation, it is recommended to first glue a waterproofing sheet to the ceiling.
Floor insulation
Basically, we have dealt with the question of how to insulate a metal garage. It remains to consider additional options for protection from the cold. Helps improve thermal insulation. Since its surface is usually made of metal or concrete, we will consider options for insulating these materials.
The most affordable option now is to insulate the floor with foam plastic:
- First you need to carefully level the surface, then clean it, eliminating all depressions or cracks with putty.
- At concrete covering it should first be primed twice.
- If there is a hole or cellar in the garage, waterproofing is required.
- Apply glue directly to the floor, as well as to the foam plastic, with a notched trowel, lay the slab and press it carefully.
- It is allowed to use special dowels, but then you will have to drill the floor.
- The floor insulation is completed with a screed. Additional strength will be provided by the addition of extruded granules to the solution.
Insulation of a garage cellar
If there is a cellar or inspection hole they also need to be carefully insulated.
Cellar ceiling
Before insulating the cellar ceiling, install a layer of waterproofing on it. Then you can glue the foam to the ceiling. Perfect option insulation - liquid filler, although its use is much more expensive.
Cellar walls
The material for wall insulation must be mold-resistant and moisture-proof. The best option– expanded polystyrene. Its slabs should be attached to the sheathing or directly to the walls. When performing insulation work, do not forget about the wiring. It must be laid in a metal sleeve or a box must be secured.
Cellar floor
Since usually in garage cellar The floor is dirt, it is better to fill it with bitumen. First you should pour crushed stone, then sand, compact everything and pour bitumen on top. If the floor is reinforced concrete, it is better to cover it with roofing felt on top of sawdust, and then fill it with a cement screed on top.
Conclusion
In conclusion, a few tips:
- If the garage is separate from other buildings, external thermal insulation is also necessary.
- When insulating a flat roof, it is necessary to organize a slope that allows water not to accumulate.
An ordinary metal garage can perform many useful functions. During the winter, a caring car enthusiast leaves his car there, someone else stores provisions here, and someone equips the space for a special workshop. All this can be done provided that the garage must be insulated.
The optimal temperature for such a room is at least -5°C. At lower values, condensation will begin to form on the surface of the car, which leads to rust. It will be impossible to work in a box because of the cold, and storing vegetables will become impractical; they will simply begin to rot at the first thaw. In order to retain heat inside the room, it is necessary to select and install the insulation correctly.
Insulation materials
Using traditional metal garage building materials can significantly increase the temperature in the room.
For these purposes use:
- Styrofoam. This material is considered the most common type of insulation. It is convenient to work with polystyrene foam; it is cheap;
- Penoizol. This is a liquid form of the same foam. Penoizol has fire resistance and excellent water resistance. The durability of such insulation is 40 years;
- Basalt wool. This soft and inexpensive insulation is also called mineral wool. Garages are often insulated with mineral wool. And this material is one of the leaders in terms of popularity of use.
- Polyurethane foam. The durability of this building material is 50 years;
The above types practically do not differ in quality; reasonable prices determine the demand for all these products.
Having decided on the type of insulation for arranging thermal insulation from the inside of the box, you can begin the preparatory stage.
Necessary tools and building materials
It is better to insulate a garage in summer or spring. Sometimes the situation forces to carry out work in cold weather, at low temperature. In this case, it is necessary to insulate the garage reliably quickly.
You need to prepare the tools in advance to use the allotted time productively:
- electric drill;
- building level;
- steel profile;
- welding machine;
- screwdriver;
- self-tapping screws;
- furniture stapler with staples;
- roulette;
- wooden blocks for installing sheathing crossbars;
- scissors for working with metal;
- protective gloves, special mask.
Preparation
When dealing with the internal cladding of metal structures, first of all you should take care of anti-corrosion. If there is rust on the surface of the walls, it should be removed with a special wire brush. If necessary, patch repairs of individual areas are carried out. After which the surface is treated with an anti-corrosion solution.
To ensure optimal indoor conditions, you also need to create a ventilation system. It will be needed for circulation: the system will remove exhaust air, replacing it with fresh air. Otherwise, accumulated heavy vapors and gases can cause condensation. Condensation negatively affects the condition of the supporting structure of the garage, the car and stored products.
After applying the anti-corrosion solution, it usually takes several days for it to dry completely. Then they begin to insulate the box from the inside. This kind of work can be done with your own hands. According to the rules, first the walls are insulated, then the roof, gates, and only then, if necessary, the protection of the floor is strengthened.
Wall insulation
Let's consider the insulation procedure using the example of a material such as basalt wool.
This type of material has decent characteristics:
- durability;
- preservation of qualities even with high humidity;
- low thermal conductivity;
- resistance to mold;
- ease of working with insulation;
- environmental friendliness;
- fire resistance.
Sequence of sheathing garage walls mineral insulation:
- First you need to determine the location of the sheathing. The amount of material used will depend on the square footage of the sheathed surface. The steel profile is excellent for frame construction. The use of wood in this case can lead to rapid destruction under the influence of moisture. In addition, the wooden structure can become deformed when wet.
- Start building vertical guides. The gap between the structures should be about 1-2 cm, that is, less than the width of the insulation itself. This way the material will expand completely and take up the entire space. To strengthen the system, horizontal transverse beams are placed every meter; wooden beams can be used here.
- The already installed sheathing begins to be surrounded with a membrane; another type of waterproofing material can be used. The joints that appear should be glued with tape, the film is attached to the staples, you can use a stapler for this.
- The insulation needs to be laid inside the resulting sheathing. Start laying from the bottom. In this case, no crevices should remain.
- A vapor barrier material is applied to the insulation; you can use plastic film or roofing felt.
- Finally, the sheathing is sheathed. The sheathing is made of non-combustible material, for example, using plasterboard or steel siding.
It should be taken into account that when covering a box, the space in the room narrows. Accordingly, it is better to choose not very voluminous insulation.
When covering a garage with foam plastic, you should take into account the peculiarities of the material. Such insulation will not expand like cotton wool, so it is better to make the gap between the guides a little smaller, for example 1-2 cm. It is better to create the sheathing in separate blocks, the dimensions of each of them should exactly repeat the dimensions of the foam sheets. If there are defects on the walls, then it is better to level the surface before insulation. It is recommended to use the profile L-shaped. Insulation sheets are attached with glue
Roof insulation
Typically, the roof or ceiling of a garage is presented in the form of a lean-to structure. This roof design is considered budget and simple option. The basis for it are rafters resting on the Mauerlat.
At the stage of its construction
Now let's continue working. The mauerlat bars are laid on top of the box walls, secured with anchor bolts. It is better to carry out thermal insulation of the ceiling of an iron garage at the stage of its construction. In this case, you will need to go to work less strength and time.
The rafter system is assembled from wooden beams. The cross-section of each beam is 15x15 cm. The rafters are installed at an evenly equal distance, the gap reaches 60 cm. The main guideline in this case is the width of the insulation boards, according to the standard this size reaches 61 cm. The maximum thermal insulation elements can be laid between the rafters if there is a reserve .
The next stage will be the installation of a vapor barrier layer. To do this, you can purchase special membranes that are perfect for these purposes. They are attached to the rafters with staples and buttons. Existing joints are taped. From the inside of the building, the vapor barrier is sheathed with the selected material. Here you can use fiberboard or lining. This is an individual solution for each garage owner.
The sheathing is attached very carefully; it is necessary to ensure the tightness of the vapor barrier. Damage or defects that appear during operation should be repaired immediately. To do this, you can use sealant or tape.
The insulation is installed between the rafters. It is better to choose mineral wool for such work. Usually, the use of insulation with a thickness of 15 cm is considered sufficient. The thermal insulation layer can be increased if necessary.
Then they carry out standard technology for arranging the roof. First, the sheathing is made. The installation procedure depends on the characteristics of the used roofing. Afterwards, waterproofing is laid on the sheathing and the work is completed by laying the finishing material.
Thermal insulation after construction of a garage
The work on arranging thermal insulation of the ceiling, carried out after the construction of the garage, is slightly different from the process of insulating the roof during the construction of the box. In this case, thermal insulation is laid between the rafters, a vapor barrier film is laid on top, and finally the structure is sheathed with any suitable material.
Certain inconveniences may arise during the process of attaching thermal insulation boards. To eliminate the inconvenience, it is enough to simply fasten the insulation to avoid the material falling before the finishing sheathing begins. It is necessary to attach strips of waterproofing and vapor barrier material to the slings so that they prevent the insulation from falling.
It is considered inconvenient to work with the use of hard materials, therefore, it is better to sheathe the garage ceiling with foam plastic. In this case, there should be no holes on the roof surface outside or inside. If there are still holes in the ceiling, they must be repaired by welding. At the time of insulation, foam plastic is placed between a vapor barrier and a waterproofing material.
Entrance trim
If cold air enters through the cracks located in entrance gate ah garage, there is no benefit from insulating the internal walls. Laying a hard insulation such as polystyrene foam will help solve this problem. First, the gates are insulated, and then the front door.
Sequencing:
- The metal surface of the gate is treated with protective mastic. A material such as polystyrene foam is not afraid of the negative effects of moisture. But when opening the doors, snow or raindrops can sometimes penetrate into the crevice, ending up between the insulation and metal sheet. This cannot be allowed.
A metal garage is a structure used to store vehicles. Depending on the materials used, the garage can be built from brick, concrete, lumber or metal.
One of the measures to create and maintain an optimal indoor microclimate for maintaining equipment is to insulate a metal garage from the inside.
If metal was used in the construction of the garage, then the result of construction is a cold building that can only cover vehicle from precipitation and gusts of wind. In this case, there is no question of creating a microclimate that prolongs the service life and improves the operating conditions of transport. In order to improve the indicators that determine the conditions of maintenance and storage, the iron garage is insulated.
There are only two options for insulating walls and roofs, depending on the type of implementation - insulation from the outside and insulation from the inside.
As a rule, insulation of a metal garage is done from the inside, and the outer metal surface serves to protect it from rain and snow. However, with the advent of new technologies and materials, this type of work is increasingly used by individual developers.
Important: to reduce heat loss through the surfaces of metal walls and roofs, you can use paints with low thermal conductivity!
Materials used for garage insulation
How to insulate a metal garage from the inside is a question that faces the user when the garage is built, and the effect of its use does not meet the requirements for the conditions of storage and operation of the vehicle.
To insulate such structures, the following heat-insulating materials can be used: polystyrene foam, mineral wool, penoizol, polyurethane foam.
How to insulate an iron garage from the inside is decided by each user individually, based on personal preferences, the ability to do this work independently and the properties of the material used.
How to insulate a garage: a comparative review of materials
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How to paint garage walls for thermal insulation
Paint the outside of a metal garage to reduce the thermal conductivity of the walls and roof. In this case, as already written above, for external insulation, paints with low thermal conductivity are used, these are:
- "Astratek" is a liquid ceramic heat insulator, made on water based.
- “Isollat” - consists of acrylic dispersion, ceramic microgranules, fiberglass, perliate and various additives and fillers.
- “Corundum” is water-based and consists of ceramic microgranules with various types of additives.
Paints with low thermal conductivity are suitable for internal and external insulation
Paints of this group are produced for exterior and internal use and for various structural elements (walls, floors, ceilings, pipes).
How to insulate a metal garage with your own hands
Before you begin work on insulating the garage, you need to decide what material will serve as thermal insulation. The selection criteria, in this case, will be the advantages and disadvantages of each of the materials given above, as well as their cost and the possibility of purchasing at the user’s place of residence.
To perform the work you will need hand and power tools, thermal insulation, lumber or metallic profile, fasteners (screws, bolts, clamps, etc.), materials for waterproofing and vapor barrier building structures, sealing agents (foam and tape).
When insulating a metal garage from the inside, depending on the material chosen, the work is performed differently. Therefore, we will consider several insulation options for different building elements of one structure.
To insulate the ceiling we use mineral wool.
Important: when insulating cold buildings, you need to remember that greatest number heat “leaves” from the room through the ceiling!
- Guides (lathing) are mounted along the ceiling. This can be lumber or metal profile.
- The sheathing is laid in increments equal to the width of the insulation boards.
- A layer of waterproofing is laid down. For this you can use roofing felt or polyethylene.
- Mineral wool is placed between the guides and fastening is done using mastic or glue.
- The seams between the plates are sealed.
- A layer of vapor barrier is laid, over which the exterior finishing is carried out (plasterboard, lumber).
Insulation can be done in a similar way using polystyrene foam.
To insulate walls we use penoizol or polyurethane foam
Depending on the type of penoizol, work can be performed in the following sequence:
- When used in liquid form:
- A frame made of metal or wood is mounted on the surface of the walls.
- A fine reinforcing mesh is stretched over the frame elements.
- The prepared surface is filled with foam insulation.
- A layer of vapor barrier is laid.
- Performed fine finishing wall surfaces (plaster, drywall, lumber, different kinds plastic).
Important: when insulating using penoizol, a prerequisite is to lay a layer of vapor barrier, which ensures that moisture is cut off from inside the room.
- When used in the form of slabs, the work is performed as in the case of wall insulation using mineral wool. Penoizol sheets are attached with glue or adhesive mastic.
Recommendation: Using polyurethane foam when doing the work yourself is a difficult task that requires special equipment. It is recommended to involve specialized organizations or specialists who have the skills to work with this material to carry out this work.
- For external insulation, we use Astratek thermal insulating polymer coating.
- The metal of the walls and roof is cleaned of foreign objects and elements of contamination.
- The surface is cleaned of rust.
- It is degreased.
- Using a brush or roller, apply the polymer coating used in two layers.
Video: insulating a metal garage with polyurethane foam step by step
As can be seen from the examples above, doing the work of insulating a metal garage with your own hands is not a difficult job and is accessible to any user. And the availability of a variety of materials used for insulating cold buildings allows you to choose exactly the material that meets the requirements for it in technical and operational terms, as well as in accordance with the financial capabilities of the user.
A metal garage is one of the simplest and most inexpensive options for arranging a “home” for a car. Provided that it is built according to all necessary requirements, one of which is garage insulation. Today, metal garages are insulated mainly with familiar, classic heat insulators. However, the modern market building materials has a lot to offer the latest materials with excellent performance and thermal insulation characteristics. Insulating a metal garage with your own hands is not such a difficult task. How to do this and what materials to use for insulation - read below.
Materials for thermal insulation of a metal garage
Most often, the following heat insulators are used to insulate metal structures, including garages:
Polyurethane foam.
To apply polyurethane foam it is necessary to use special equipment. Using this heat insulator, you can truly insulate your garage with high quality, and the service life of polyurethane foam is tens of years. We can confidently say that for at least 70 years, polyurethane foam coating will perform its functions. This is one of the best materials for insulation metal structures for now.
Penoizol.
To put it simply, penoizol is foam plastic in liquid form. The material is quite durable and can retain heat for about 40 years. Penoizol is not afraid of moisture and is resistant to high temperatures, which is very important for the garage.
Astratek.
A liquid heat insulator that is applied to metal surfaces in the same way as regular paint– with a brush or roller. A layer of astratek one millimeter thick has the same thermal insulation characteristics as 500 m of mineral wool. If you plan to use this material, you must remember that its consumption is quite large and is approximately 0.5 liters per square meter surfaces. All of the above modern thermal insulation materials are undoubtedly very effective and durable, but in most cases the car owner will have to abandon their use, since it is unreasonably expensive. It’s great when garage insulation can last 50 years or more, but what garage owner would look ahead to such long term, when do you need to pay a tidy sum for insulation now?
Therefore, metal garages are most often insulated with the most accessible and cheapest material - polystyrene foam. At the same time, it is spent many times less money than on the purchase and application of ultra-modern thermal insulation materials. For example, to insulate one square meter of a metal surface with polystyrene foam you need to spend less than 800 rubles. An important advantage of metal garages is that there is no need for a strong foundation. In most cases, it is enough to fill the area of the required size with concrete. To do this, I remove a layer of soil to a depth of about 30 cm, clean the bottom, sprinkle it with sand and compact it. Next, a grid of reinforcement and formwork are installed around the perimeter of the pit.
The foundation for a metal garage must be at least 15 cm above ground level to prevent water from entering the room. Insulation of the foundation in this case is not necessary.
How to insulate a garage from the inside
If we talk about insulating the walls of a metal garage from the inside, then the work must be carried out in a certain sequence. First of all, they make a frame for the insulation boards. The whole process in this case can be divided into several stages.
Before starting work, you must purchase construction tool. Purchasing a tool is currently not a problem. Even if the construction site is located far from civilization, the tool can be purchased through online stores like http://technoportal.ru/. And you definitely need to buy a screwdriver, drill, grinder etc. After purchase the necessary tool let's get to work:
Preparing the insulated metal surface, cleaning the walls. Installation of a false partition made of plasterboard, the frame of which will be used for installation thermal insulation material. To create the frame you will need guides (UD) and a wall profile (CD). Installation of UD racks (0.25-0.30 m) to the ceiling or floor is done using dowels. The CD profile is mounted using special hangers, observing a step of 0.6 m. Mounting hangers are attached to the wall approximately every 30 centimeters. Subsequently, a plasterboard covering is installed on these hangers.
In the process of insulating a metal garage, not only plasterboard can be used as the lining of the thermal insulation layer. Quite often, insulated walls are sheathed with asbestos fiber.
This material has good fire resistance, but at the same time it is quite fragile, therefore, when installing the frame, the step between the racks needs to be smaller.
After the frame is ready, they begin laying the insulation. To insulate a metal garage, it is recommended to use mineral wool or glass wool slabs as a classic heat insulator - they retain heat well and do not burn, while polystyrene foam, although cheaper, is a flammable material and releases toxic substances when ignited. Mineral wool slabs are laid in the frame (it is advisable to make the distance between the racks according to the size of the insulation slabs, so that the slabs do not have to be cut to size).
After this, a layer of vapor barrier material is attached to the frame. The joints of the vapor barrier sheets must be taped.
It is much easier and faster to insulate a metal garage using liquid thermal insulation using, for example, heat-insulating paint or polyurethane foam - the most affordable and popular liquid insulation.
In specialized stores you can find a fairly large assortment of liquid heat-insulating paints: thermos, isolat, etc.
To insulate a metal garage using liquid foam, a so-called foam generator is used. This device foams a heat insulator, which is applied in a liquid state to the surface to be insulated. Liquid foam dries quickly, forming a hard crust that firmly adheres to the metal surface.
As mentioned above, the cheapest and simple material Polystyrene foam is used to insulate a metal garage. If glue is used to attach foam boards, then you need to carefully prepare the metal surface - thoroughly clean it of dust, dirt, rust and be sure to degrease it. This is the only way to ensure durable and high-quality fastening of the insulation. The easiest way to fill the gaps between the plates is with regular foam. After this, the foam layer is covered with any available finishing material.
Insulation of metal garage doors
When insulating a metal garage, do not forget to take care of the gates, since a large amount of heat escapes from the room through them. Experienced builders It is advised to make a door in one of the leaves so that each time you enter or leave the room, you do not open the gate completely.
In addition, a special curtain can be installed on the inside of the garage door, which will prevent heat leakage.
An excellent material for a curtain is transparent plastic; it allows you to see the space in front of the garage when leaving. You can use thick plastic film. The material for the curtain is cut into wide strips, about 30 cm. The strips should not reach the garage floor by about 1 cm. This is necessary so as not to tear them away from the fastening when the car is moving.
The strips are attached above the gate to wooden slats using a stapler. Each strip should form an overlap with the adjacent one, at least 1.5 cm. A curtain made in this way will return to its original position each time a car enters or exits the garage, while retaining heat.
However, for complete insulation, one curtain is not enough; you need to take care of the thermal insulation of the door leaf. The easiest way to do this is using the same polystyrene foam. It can be secured with or without lathing by gluing the sheets to the gate leaf.
If the foam is attached to wooden sheathing, then all its elements are treated with special impregnations against mold and mildew immediately before fastening. The foam sheathing can be made in any way available material– you can use fiberboard, plywood, thin boards, etc. This type of lining can be primed with regular heated drying oil.
In order to prevent the penetration of cold through the gaps at the junction of the gate, a rubber seal is used. The metal surface in places of contact with the rubber seal must be treated with an anti-corrosion compound to prevent the formation of condensation.
Ceiling insulation in a metal garage
In addition to walls and gates, ceiling insulation is a prerequisite for high-quality insulation of a garage space. The ceiling of a metal garage must be insulated on both sides - outside and inside. This way it will be possible to achieve maximum effect from thermal insulation work. From the outside, the ceilings of metal garages are usually insulated using painting materials.
But for interior work Several options are possible:
- Painting with heat-insulating agent in several layers.
- Applying a layer of liquid heat insulator.
- Using expanded polystyrene boards or mineral wool.
The easiest way to mount heat insulation slabs to the ceiling is with bitumen mastics. If polystyrene foam is used, the seams between the plates are treated with sealant. Do not forget that mineral wool is hygroscopic - it absorbs moisture. The mineral wool layer must be protected with waterproofing.
If a metal garage has a single or gable rafter roof, then the insulation of the roof depends on the design features: If there is a significant distance between the rafters, mineral wool slabs can be laid between them, protecting them on top with a layer of waterproofing material.
It is advisable to carry out all work on thermal insulation of the truss roof during the construction stage.
When the distance between the rafters is small, insulation is laid under them, and waterproofing is attached to the rafters on top. If the garage has an attic, then it is best to insulate the ceiling by pouring a layer of expanded clay 20-30 cm thick. The expanded clay is covered on top waterproofing material and poured with a thin layer of sand-cement screed. But, as we already mentioned above, for high-quality thermal insulation of a garage, external ceiling insulation alone is not enough - it is also necessary internal thermal insulation. The technology for its implementation directly depends on the material used:
Foamed foil polyethylene.
Attached to the ceiling of a metal garage with wooden slats. This material has high water-repellent characteristics. To achieve a better effect, sheets of plywood, fiberboard or chipboard are stuffed onto the slats that secure the polyethylene.
Mineral wool.
First of all, waterproofing is attached to the surface, after which the sheathing is installed. Mineral wool sheets are laid in lathing, protected with a layer of vapor barrier and sheathed with sheets of facing material.
Expanded polystyrene.
Plates of this material are glued to the ceiling using tile adhesive or bitumen mastic. In this case, lathing is not needed. To slightly increase the thermal insulation characteristics of polystyrene foam boards, a waterproofing sheet is installed under them.
The slabs can also be plastered, reinforced, covered with cladding, or left as is.
And, at the end of our publication, we will present a few important advice:
- Foam plastic for internal insulation You can use the ceiling in a garage, but it is undesirable - it is a flammable and toxic material.
- The use of external thermal insulation is mandatory if the garage is not adjacent to other buildings.
- Producing insulation flat roof, do not forget about the slope, which should be at least 7 degrees. This is a necessary condition, otherwise water will accumulate on the roof.
We hope that the material presented in the article will help you get at least a superficial idea of how to insulate a metal garage from the inside.
svouimirukami.ru
How to insulate a metal garage with your own hands once and for all
A metal garage performs many useful functions. Caring car owners park their car inside it for the winter, other people simply store their summer harvest, and still others equip the box for a workshop. All these goals will be successfully realized if the garage is well insulated from the inside.
The minimum temperature for such a room is considered to be −5 degrees; Otherwise, vegetables will rot, it will be cold to work there, and condensation will form on the car, causing rust. Therefore, it is advisable to insulate an iron garage from the inside in order to effectively retain heat.
Suitable materials for insulation
Traditional materials and new products, the quality of which only a few have been tested, can significantly increase the temperature inside a metal garage. Examples of good insulation materials are:
- polystyrene foam (the most common material, characterized by low cost and ease of use);
- penoizol (liquid form of the above, with a durability of over 40 years, good water resistance, fire resistance);
- astratek (another liquid insulation; material applied in a 1 mm thick layer is comparable in quality to a five-centimeter layer of mineral wool);
- polyurethane foam (durable material with a minimum service life of 50 years);
- mineral or basalt wool (soft, inexpensive insulation, second in demand after polystyrene foam).
The listed materials are almost the same in quality, and the demand for one or another is usually determined by price. Therefore, polystyrene foam and mineral wool are considered the most popular.
Having decided on the choice of material for insulating the garage from the inside, you can begin preparatory work.
Required Tools
It is advisable to insulate the garage in the warm season, but sometimes the situation forces you to carry out work at sub-zero temperatures. Here there is a need to insulate the box quickly and reliably. To use time efficiently, the following equipment is prepared in advance:
- electric drill;
- mask and gloves (protective);
- welding machine;
- building level;
- screwdriver;
- self-tapping screws;
- metal scissors;
- tape measure from 5 m;
- staples and furniture stapler;
- wooden blocks for horizontal cross members of sheathing;
- steel profile.
If the above is present, it’s time to start insulating the garage from the inside.
Preparatory stage
When lining metal structures, it is paramount to take care of anti-corrosion treatment. To do this, you need to clean off any rust that is present on the surfaces with a metal brush, carry out patch repairs (of a specific small area) if necessary, and then paint the surface with a special anti-corrosion solution.
Sometimes the right question arises - how to insulate a metal garage for a long time if the surface is treated? Second important factor provision comfortable conditions inside the garage is to create ventilation. It should remove air from the garage, replacing it with fresh air. Otherwise, the accumulation of gases will cause condensation, which will negatively affect the supporting structure of the garage, car or stored food.
After waiting for 1-2 days for the applied anti-corrosion solution to completely dry, the insulation of the metal box from the inside begins. It is advisable to carry out the work in the following sequence - insulate the walls, then the ceiling, the gate with a wicket, and, if necessary, the floor.
Insulation of garage walls and ceilings
The process is considered using basalt wool as an example. This material has the following characteristics:
- low thermal conductivity;
- durability (from 50 years);
- affordability;
- preservation of qualities when humidity increases inside the garage;
- comfort in working with the material;
- mildew resistance;
- environmental cleanliness;
- non-flammability.
Subsequence internal lining walls with mineral insulation is as follows:
- The location of the sheathing is determined, and the amount of material required is calculated depending on the area of the sheathed surface. For frame would be better suited steel profile, since wood collapses faster when interacting with moisture. Also, the latter material “leads” when slightly wet.
- Vertical guides are installed. The distance between them should be 1-2 cm less than the width of the insulation so that it expands and efficiently takes up space. To strengthen the structure, crossbars are placed horizontally every meter, which here can be wooden.
- The installed sheathing is surrounded by a membrane or other waterproofing material. The joints are taped, and the film is attached to the staples (a furniture stapler will do).
- The insulation is placed inside the sheathing from bottom to top. There should be no gaps.
- A layer of vapor barrier material is applied on top of the insulation (roofing material or polyethylene film are suitable).
- The final stage is covering the sheathing. Made with non-flammable material; An example is steel siding or drywall.
It is important to take into account that when covering the garage from the inside, the space narrows. The insulation should not be too bulky.
When covering with foam plastic, you need to take into account some features of the material. It does not expand like cotton wool, so there is no need to make the distance between the frame guides 1-2 cm smaller. It is better to create the sheathing in blocks, the dimensions of which exactly match the dimensions of the foam. If there are any defects, the walls should be leveled first. It is also advisable to use an L-shaped profile and attach the insulation sheets with glue.
Work with liquid materials will be inconvenient, so it is better to line the top of the garage with foam. The fixation method is similar to that previously discussed, but there is one caveat - you should take care that there are no holes in the roof of the box. If there are any, welding will come to the rescue. As with walls, when insulating the ceiling, a layer of foam plastic is located between the hydro- and vapor barrier layer.
Entrance trim
Wall insulation will not be beneficial if cold air will flow through the cracks of the entrance gate or wicket. The situation is easily solved by using rigid insulation such as polystyrene foam. First the gates are insulated, then a small Entrance door in them. The sequence is:
- The metal surface is treated with protective mastic. Expanded polystyrene is not afraid of moisture, however, when opening the gate, raindrops or snow can get into the cracks between the material and the iron sheet. This should not be allowed.
- Attach lathing profiles along the perimeter of the gate.
- Fix the polystyrene plates to the mounting adhesive; it is advisable to apply penofol (a foil-based material) on top of them.
- Make a wooden sheathing for installation of the cladding. Provide a distance of about 30 mm between the future lining/plasterboard/other cladding material and polystyrene foam, so that there is an air gap.
- Fix the cladding to the sheathing.
- Perform similar actions with the gate.
Floor insulation
Sometimes there is a need to insulate the bottom of the garage. For example, if there are large gaps or the importance of the caisson (cellar). A suitable material would be polystyrene foam, on top of which a material is applied that prevents its destruction from human movement. Follow these steps:
- Level the surface, remove cracks and holes with putty.
- Prime the floor twice if it is concrete.
- Make lathing from steel profiles.
- Apply a layer of waterproofing.
- Apply glue, put foam on top of it, press it to the floor.
- Screed the floor with a special solution. Extra granules are added to increase strength.
Carrying out the operations described above will allow you to maintain an optimal microclimate inside the garage. Even a beginner can master the process, and the result will be the safety of the car, food or other items of value stored inside the box.
remontami.ru
How to insulate a metal garage with your own hands - step by step instructions!
Initially, a garage is a room designed to store a car, ensuring its protection from adverse weather influences and attacks by intruders. However, the garage must not only be strong and reliable, but also properly equipped.
How to insulate a metal garage
First of all, you need to perform proper thermal insulation, because... sudden changes in temperature, together with other factors, can cause harm not only to the building, but also to the machine and other objects located in it. You can insulate a metal garage with your own hands without any problems. You just need to understand the procedure for performing such work and follow the instructions received in everything.
The floor is the first thing that should be insulated in a metal garage
Thermal insulation of a garage is a complex undertaking that includes finishing not only all surfaces, but even the gates. However, before starting any work, prepare the necessary tools.
Tools and materials for insulating a metal garage
Additionally, you will need finishing material and fasteners suitable specifically for this material. Lining is usually used as cladding. Fiberboard, siding, moisture-resistant drywall, etc. are also perfect.
Garage, interior decoration clapboard
Gather the tools listed and purchase the required materials. Measure your garage in advance to calculate the required amount of materials and not waste time in the future on purchasing what is missing. Take all the equipment to an insulated garage.
As already noted, the thermal insulation of a metal garage begins with finishing the floor. Remove the existing boardwalk and cover the exposed surface with plastic sheeting. It will serve as a waterproofing material. If a single piece of film is not enough to cover the entire area, lay the required number of pieces with an overlap of about 15 cm and obligatory gluing the joints with metallized tape.
Lay the selected insulation on the waterproofing and fix new boards on top of it. Use self-tapping screws for fixation. Mineral wool or polystyrene is usually used as thermal insulation for the floor. You can backfill, for example, with sawdust or expanded clay. Here, focus on your own preferences and budget.
Instructions for insulating a garage roof
Scheme for insulating a garage roof with mineral wool
In the vast majority of cases, the garage roof is represented single-pitch construction. This is the simplest and a budget option, which is perfect for a regular garage. The basis of this design are the rafters. Traditionally, they rely on the Mauerlat. The Mauerlat bars are laid on top of the garage walls and connected to them using anchor bolts. It is better if the thermal insulation of the roof of a metal garage is carried out simultaneously with its construction. Then it will take much less time to work.
Roof structure
The truss system is assembled from wooden beam with a cross section of 15x15 cm. The rafters are installed with the same spacing, usually it is 60 cm. Here the main guideline is the width of the insulation boards, which, in accordance with the standard, is 61 cm. The remaining margin will allow the thermal insulation elements to be laid between the rafters as tightly as possible.
At the next stage, you need to equip the vapor barrier layer. Special membranes are available for sale that are excellent for vapor barriers. This material is attached to the rafters with buttons or staples. The vapor barrier layer must be as tight as possible. All joints must be sealed with tape.
From the inside of the building, the vapor barrier is sheathed with the preferred material. Usually lining or fiberboard is used, but the owner can choose another finish if desired. In this matter, everything is purely individual. The sheathing must be attached as carefully as possible, ensuring that the vapor barrier remains airtight. Any defects or damage must be repaired immediately using tape or sealant.
Lay the insulation between the rafters. Minvata is perfect. In most cases, a layer about 15 cm thick is sufficient. For the rest, be guided by the climatic conditions of your region. If your area is very cold, increase the insulation layer.
Mineral wool is great for insulating garage ceilings
Further work is carried out using standard technology for roof installation. First you need to make a sheathing, the order of which depends on the chosen roofing covering, then lay waterproofing on the sheathing and complete the “pie” with the finishing material.
If work on thermal insulation of the roof of a metal garage will be carried out after the construction of the structure, be guided by the same scheme with some changes. So, thermal insulation will be laid between the rafters, a vapor barrier film will cover it on top, and the structure will be completed with a cladding of your choice.
Vapor barrier
When fixing thermal insulation boards, certain inconveniences may arise. To eliminate them, it is enough to simply secure the insulation so that it does not fall until the finishing sheathing is installed. To do this, attach strips of hydro- and vapor barrier material to the rafters in such a way that they prevent the insulation from falling.
The procedure for thermal insulation of metal garage walls
Prepare material for insulating the walls of a metal garage. The most popular and very effective option is mineral wool. The material is characterized by high fire resistance and excellent thermal conductivity. The only drawback is poor tolerance to contact with moisture. Therefore, special attention will also have to be paid to the waterproofing device. The insulation is laid in the sheathing. For external thermal insulation, a 10 cm thick layer of thermal insulation is usually sufficient.
Insulation of the garage
To attach the sheathing elements to the garage, use metal corners. To make the work easier and faster, it is recommended to pre-mark the places for installing the sheathing bars. Place them in 60 cm increments. Place a layer of vapor barrier material on the sheathing. Then cut the insulation boards to a suitable length, lay them in the space between the sheathing beams and cover them with waterproofing. To protect against moisture, in most cases, polyethylene film is used.
Insulation of a metal garage from the outside
Finally, the garage walls need to be covered with siding, finished with facing bricks, or decorated in another preferred way.
Covering an insulated garage with siding
If it is impossible to carry out external insulation of a garage, for example, if the walls of neighboring garages are adjacent to its walls, the insulation must be performed in the same sequence, but from the inside. Fibreboard, lining and other similar materials are suitable for interior cladding. They must be specially treated before use. For example, drying oil is used to treat fiberboard, and the lining is necessarily coated with an antiseptic and fire-retardant compound.
In most cases, it is recommended to avoid using polystyrene foam for wall insulation. The problem is that this material is not resistant to fire and, in addition, during the combustion process it releases substances that are extremely dangerous to humans. Therefore, mineral wool insulation is the most the best option.
For thermal insulation garage doors mineral wool is usually used. Extruded polystyrene foam is also well suited for this. The latter is characterized by good moisture resistance and thermal conductivity, it is extremely easy to use, and is sold at affordable price, but has a serious drawback - complete instability to fire.
Mineral wool is a fire-resistant material, but it also has its drawbacks. When wet, such insulation sharply loses its performance characteristics in general and durability in particular. Therefore, before you start decorating your garage door, carefully consider the choice of thermal insulation.
Clean the insulated surface from any contamination. The paintwork, if present, must also be removed. A sheathing is installed along the contour of the products. Wooden blocks with a cross section of 30-50 mm are suitable for its assembly. Select the specific value in accordance with the thermal insulation layer. Cut the crossbar to the smallest possible width and then connect internal corners frames with external ones.
Glue the insulation to the gate. For this, ordinary mounting adhesive is used. Joints between separate elements thermal insulation should be filled with mounting foam. This will allow you to achieve the highest quality and effective insulation.
How to insulate garage doors
If polystyrene foam is used as insulation, it will be necessary to additionally lay penofol on top of it. Thanks to this material, a comfortable microclimate will be maintained in the garage at any time of the year. Lay the penofol with the foil part inside. For installation, use the same glue. Finally, attach finishing coat. Usually its function is performed plastic lining.
Penofol thickness 10 mm
The mineral wool is attached in a slightly different order. First, the crate is also equipped. Select the pitch between the beams so that it is 2-3 cm less than the width of the insulation. Place the insulating boards between the sheathing bars and secure them. Mounting glue and dowels are suitable for fixing. It is best to use them in combination.
Thermal insulation must be covered with a vapor-permeable membrane or ordinary plastic film. Finally, as in the case of expanded polystyrene, lining or other finishing facing material is installed.
Scheme of thermal insulation of garage doors
Thus, insulating a metal garage is an extremely simple undertaking that almost anyone can do. You just need to carry out all stages of work in accordance with the instructions and remember that high-quality insulation can be ensured only with an integrated approach with knowledge of the matter.
Good luck!
Video - How to insulate a metal garage
svoimi-rykami.ru
Self-insulation of metal garages
Insulation of a metal garage is carried out using classic insulation materials or modern analogues that have a unique set operational properties.
The production technology of modern thermal insulation materials influences the formation of their cost. The price factor contributes to the fact that iron garages are most often insulated with foam plastic - despite some disadvantages of this material.
In this case, the cost of insulating one square meter will be approximately two times lower: when using polystyrene foam they will be $20, and if you take modern materials– no less than $40.
Other materials
Among such materials are the following:
Penoizol
It is a liquid form of polystyrene foam. It is characterized by durability (retains properties for more than 40 years), water resistance, and a high fire resistance limit.
Asstratek
Belongs to the category liquid insulation materials. The method of applying astratek is similar to applying paint, and the effectiveness of an insulation layer with a thickness of only 1 mm is comparable to thermal insulation properties layer of mineral wool 50 mm thick.
To apply thermal insulation per square meter of area you will need only 0.5 liters of astratek.
Polyurethane foam (PPU)
When applying polyurethane foam, special equipment is used. The service life of this insulation is more than 70 years.
Insulation from the inside
The walls of a metal garage are best insulated from the inside. In this case, work is carried out in a certain sequence.
Frame structure
A frame is a structure designed for mounting heat-insulating material on walls. Before you start insulating your garage with your own hands, you must:
- prepare surfaces, clean walls;
- make a false partition from plasterboard, onto the frame of which the heat-insulating material will be attached.
For the manufacture of the frame, wall CD profiles and UD guides are used. Installation of UD-racks to the floor and ceiling is done using dowels in increments of 0.25-0.3 meters. CD profiles should be installed using special hangers in increments of 0.6 meters.
The hangers used for installation are attached to the wall every 30 centimeters.
It is to them that the plasterboard, which is the facing layer, is attached.
Additional events
The inside of the garage walls requires special preparation, which includes plastering with a “warm” type of plaster or applying it to the surface thermal insulation paint.
The ability to shift the dew point to the outside of the garage walls allows you to protect them from the negative effects of freezing and excessive moisture. Experts recommend installing the system forced ventilation, designed for high air exchange rates.
Application of liquid thermal insulation
The use of liquid thermal insulation, presented in the form of paint or polyurethane foam, is among the most popular options. The variety of paints used provides a choice: thermos paint, isolat, etc.
Liquid foam, which is a foam-like mass, is produced directly at the construction site using the so-called. foam generator.
The cured foam has the appearance of a hard crust with excellent adhesion.
Fastening foam boards with glue
Attaching foam to glue is one of the simplest and most available ways insulation of garage walls from the inside.
When using it, it is necessary to pay increased attention to the issue of cleaning and degreasing metal surfaces.
This measure ensures reliable and durable fastening of the heat-insulating material.
The gaps formed between the sheets are best filled with mounting foam. After that, paint can be applied to the surface of the insulation.
When using polystyrene foam boards, it is necessary to remember about its increased flammability and the fact that during combustion a large amount of toxic substances are released.
Garage Doors
Insulation of a metal garage also includes insulation of garage doors.
Curtain device
It is recommended to make a small door in one of the garage doors, and fasten a door made of thick fabric or polyethylene film a curtain with a thickness of at least 0.8 mm, designed to retain some of the heat in the room. But it is better to use transparent plastic for this purpose, which provides sufficient visibility when leaving the garage.
The selected material should be cut into strips of such length that, when fixed above the gate, they are at a distance of 1 cm from the floor level.
The width of the strips can vary from 20 to 30 cm. The strips should be stapled to a wooden batten so that an overlap of 1.5-2 cm is formed between them.
Under the influence of gravity, the strips will hang evenly, and after a forced deviation, they will return to their original place.
Gate panels
It is recommended to use foam plastic for thermal insulation of gate panels. From the inside you should make a sheathing, which must be filled with foam plastic.
The gaps resulting from the junction of the gates must be eliminated using adhesive tape - this will prevent the entry of cold air. Rubber seals are also suitable for this purpose.
Anti-corrosion protection at the points of contact between insulation and metal will prevent the appearance of condensation.
After applying the waterproofing layer, the frame is installed, which is the basis for future cladding. The frame elements must be coated with a primer to avoid warping and the spread of fungus, and it is recommended to clean the foam layer. The sheathing can be made from OSB (oriented strand board) or thin boards, and it is better to use heated drying oil as a primer.
Ceiling
For external insulation, painting agents can be used.
For internal insulation, the following options exist:
- applying several layers of thermal paint;
- gluing slabs of mineral wool or expanded polystyrene;
- spraying one of the liquid materials.
It is best to glue the slabs using bitumen mastics. The seams formed when using polystyrene foam should be treated with sealant.
No insulation required special processing in contrast to, for example, mineral wool, which should be covered with a waterproofing layer to protect it from moisture.
For external insulation made of reinforced concrete slab ceiling, you can use extruded polystyrene foam, which should be glued to bituminous mastic.
To improve the waterproofing characteristics, roofing material or any under-roofing film is placed on top of the insulation.
Thermal insulation of the outside of the roof ensures that there is no humidity inside the garage and ensures that the dew point is transferred.
Rafter roofs
Insulation of roofs with rafter system(with one or two slopes), is carried out - depending on the design features - as follows:
- with a large distance (step) between the rafters, mineral wool is laid between them, and on top there is a continuous layer of waterproofing material (with edges overlapping at least 10 cm) and a finishing coating;
- if the rafters are located frequently, the insulation must be laid under the rafters, and the moisture-proof fabric above them;
- if there is an attic, the ceiling should be covered with a layer of expanded clay (20-25 cm), covered with waterproofing material and covered with a thin screed.
