The table is an indispensable piece of furniture in the kitchen. Today, manufacturers for the manufacture of tables use a huge amount of materials. Leg options for kitchen table you can also count at least two dozen.
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How much should be?
IN classic version The kitchen table has four legs. Basically, these are traditional models with square and rectangular countertops. A table with three legs almost always has a round shape. It may be small coffee table or a full meal option. A table with two legs for the kitchen can be made in several forms, but most often there are models with two X-shaped legs or stable legs made of solid wood.
materials
Chrome plated metal
Metal legs are one of the most common types of kitchen table supports. The exceptional strength of the material ensures their reliability. Such legs are considered stable not only because of the solid construction, but also due to the plugs that are installed to prevent slipping on the floor. Manufacturers and craftsmen who decide to make a table with their own hands, metal legs attract the attention of low value and durability. The coating of such supports can be different, they can be painted or chrome.
Forged metal
Tables with forged legs have a number of advantages. First, they are very durable and never need to be repaired. Secondly, the model with iron legs has maximum stability, it is almost impossible to tilt or turn it over. Thirdly, tables with forged legs are quite versatile, easily fit into any interior and do not conflict with interior items that do not have forged elements. Fourthly, forged legs are quite easy to care for and there are no special recommendations for their maintenance.
Wooden
tables from natural wood is a classic and oldest tradition our country. Such furniture always looks very beautiful and expensive. wooden legs for the kitchen table can be various shapes: round, square or carved. Models with carved or chiseled legs are the most beautiful and elegant, and the overall impression of furniture often depends on the skill of carving craftsmen. The wood is varnished and sanded, as many layers are made as necessary to obtain a beautiful smooth surface.
Plastic
Plastic legs are in high demand due to their low cost. In addition, furniture legs made of polyurethane are of high quality and reliable, endearing. beautiful carving. Legs made of this material are perfectly combined with all countertops, regardless of the material from which they are made. Polymeric materials are absolutely not susceptible to moisture and fumes. Another advantage of polyurethane legs is their low flammability, which prevents the rapid spread of fire in the room in the event of a fire.
Designer finds
The most common version of the legs for fashionable tables for the kitchen is chrome-plated legs, which are in perfect harmony with retro style, minimalism and high-tech. If you look for the latest design developments of tables and supports for them, you can find a rather unusual execution of them. For example, the supports may be too wide or, conversely, extremely narrowed. Often the shape of the supports in the designer's fantasy suddenly becomes curved or decorated with artistic decoration.
Particular attention is given to the legs if they are under a transparent tabletop. In this case, all the splendor of beautiful legs is perfectly visible visually, so a creative approach to their execution is required. A metal box with a cross section bent at an angle of 90 degrees, which plays the role of a central support, can act as a support. The luxurious design is obtained by using four gracefully curved legs, similar to the paws of insects.
Openwork intertwining metal legs give the tables a special luxury. They can fill almost all the space under it or part of it, be in shape geometric figure or represent the leaves of a plant.
Extravagant models that fit well into modern interior, can be called kitchen tables with X-shaped legs, made of a bar with a square section. The legs tilted at an angle and converging at a point in the middle look most harmonious.
Pledge of strength and stability
Experts know that unprofessionally set legs are the cause of table swaying and tilting. While adjustable feet can correct the tilt, 99% of a table's quality depends on proper assembly.
There are two popular ways to mount legs: mounting with surface plates and mounting using T-nuts.
Mounting with surface plates
- If you purchased legs without fittings installed in them, you will have to do it yourself. To do this, you should have eye and eye bolts for large tables and threaded dowels for small tables.
- Eyebolts and eyebolts should be checked on a test plate to ensure that the screws will be of a compatible size.
- Install the eye and eye bolts inside the table legs, and mark the center of the leg with a marker or pencil. Then you need to make a hole in the leg and tighten the bolt tightly into the top of each leg.
- Turn the tabletop wrong side or put it on its side.
- Mount the plates at all four corners of the table top with four screws.
- Then you need to screw the upper part of the bolt with an eye and an eye into the plate. Screw in until fully tightened.
- After installing all four legs, place the table on the floor and make sure it is level.
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Mounting with T-nuts
This method can be used if in the future you are going to decorate the front surface of the table and use it to update the interior in the kitchen.
- You will need T-nuts, eyebolts and eyebolts.
- At the same distance, four holes must be drilled in the tabletop.
- Make sure the holes match the size of the T-nut.
- Next, insert the nut with a hammer into the hole from top to bottom through the countertop.
- Install four eye and eye bolts to match the size of the T-nut in the table leg. Measure and mark the exact center at the top of the leg. Drill a hole with a drill and screw the eye and eye bolt into the leg.
- Twist the leg into the middle of the base until they connect to the top.
Further work will take place on a table saw. Raise the saw blade to the “maximum” level. Set the bar in such a way that it is convenient to saw off 8 centimeters from its edge. To start, saw off the piece on one side only. If necessary, repeat the procedure. Work slowly and be extremely careful.
I decided to make the screw holes with inside table. To do this, I had to narrow two legs from the left corner, and two from the right, thus obtaining a left and right pair of “legs”.
Now it's time to do the final polishing of our legs. To do this, first we clean them with skins. That's all, now you can admire the result of your work!
I got table legs in the “a la hardway” style, which appeared at the very beginning of the 20th century.
Try and you make such legs for the table, it's easier than it seems. But remember to ALWAYS follow all basic safety rules!
Landscaping is an ongoing process. You build something, you improve it. Moreover, furniture is constantly required and tables are most in demand in the country. And put in the garden, and near the house, and also in. How to make a table for a summer residence with your own hands we will tell in this article using the example of finished projects.
Homemade table from boards from pallets
Dismantled pallets served as the material for this table. Naturally, you can use new boards. Only one condition - they must be dry. You can buy dry ones (it costs more) or buy ordinary ones, put them somewhere in ventilated piles and soak for at least 4 months, or better, six months. In general, any furniture, including, is made from dry wood.
We assemble the table for the street - put it in the gazebo, therefore we will not glue the tabletop boards, but fasten them from below, with the help of planks. It's very simple country table and very cheap.
Having dismantled the pallets, we get boards with an individual color and pattern. Having conjured a little, shifting them several dozen times in different manners, we achieve the desired result. It turns out quite a nice table.
We take the side parts of the pallet. We use them for the frame of the table. We grind them first with coarse sandpaper, then finely bring them to the required smoothness (grain 120 and 220).
We take the strips that remained unused, with their help we fasten the countertop. We place them in the place where the joints of the boards are located. We use two self-tapping screws for fastening each board with a joint, one for a solid one.
From the processed sidewalls and two boards (also sanded), we assemble the table frame. We fix its parts with self-tapping screws at the end (two for each joint). The frame can be glued or also "planted" on self-tapping screws. Only their length is large. Under each, we pre-drill holes with a drill, the diameter of which is slightly smaller than the diameter of the self-tapping screws.
We turn the assembled countertop over and grind it. The order is the same - first sandpaper with large grains, then with small grains.
Next up is installing the legs. We select four boards of the same size, check their length, adjust if necessary. Then again grinding. It's easier than sanding already screwed legs. We fasten the sanded boards to the frame. These will be the legs. For each - two self-tapping screws fixed in a diagonal (look at the photo). For greater stability, we install jumpers at the bottom. About 10 cm can be left from the floor to the jumpers. We connect everything with self-tapping screws so that the boards do not crack, we pre-drill holes.
After removing the dust, varnish again. In theory, the varnish should lie flat, but depends on the wood, so another sanding / painting cycle may be necessary. As a result, we get such a homemade country table.
If you do not like motley boards and traces of old nails, you can make their boards the same design. This table can be rectangular, maybe square. All dimensions are arbitrary - see the available space.
Country table from the remnants of the boards
This do-it-yourself dacha table is assembled from the remnants of boards different breeds and sizes. Pine boards 25 mm thick and 50 mm wide went to the frame of the tabletop, the remains of 15 * 50 mm were left on the legs. We make the frame according to the dimensions you need. This table will stand on the veranda, and it has a small width. So let's make it not wide - 60 cm, and the length is 140 cm. The height of the legs is 80 cm (everyone in the family is tall).
We immediately cut off two long boards of 140 cm each. To make the width of the table top 60 cm, subtract twice the thickness of the board used - this is 5 cm. Short bars should be 60 cm - 5 cm = 55 cm. We fold the frame, following right angles, twist with screws. We check whether the bars are folded correctly - we measure the diagonals, they should be the same.
We cut off the boards four boards of 80 cm each, fasten them from the inside to the assembled frame. You can use 4 screws for each leg.
Approximately at the middle of the height of the legs we fasten the crossbars. This is a shelf frame. The shelf can be used for its intended purpose, and it also increases the rigidity of the structure. We fasten strictly at right angles, checking with a large square.
We put the frame on the floor, check whether it staggers or not. If everything is done correctly, it should stand rigidly. Next, take sandpaper or a grinder and grind.
Let's start assembling the countertop. From finishing works there were boards of different types of wood, some painted with wood stain. We alternate boards of different colors.
We fasten the tabletop boards with finishing nails, carefully finishing them with a finisher. On the shelf can be fixed with ordinary nails or self-tapping screws. Then smooth with a grinder. Final stage— painting. Very unlucky with the choice of varnish. Bought too dark appearance didn't like it. Will have to sand again and paint a different color.
Wooden table with glued top
This design features L-shaped legs. They are assembled from boards of the same thickness. In this case, 20 mm. To keep them well, 5 self-tapping screws are needed. Pre-drill holes with a drill with a diameter of 1-2 mm less than the diameter of the self-tapping screws. Then with a drill larger diameter drill holes for the caps. Diameter can be matched to furniture plugs suitable color or make them from a wooden rod. Another option is to use wood putty, to which you add wood dust that remains after sanding. After drying and sanding, the traces will be difficult to find.
When assembling the legs, make sure that the angle is exactly 90°. As a pattern, you can choose a bar. First, we coat the joint of the two parts of the leg with carpentry glue, then install the screws in the following sequence: first the two extreme ones, then the middle one, and only then the other two. After the glue dries, sand the legs, varnish and dry.
It's time to make the table top. It is assembled from boards of the same thickness. Pick up the size you need. You can use fragments of different widths. It is only important that everything looks organic, and the sidewalls of the boards are even and docked without gaps.
We coat the sides of the boards selected for the table top with glue, lay them on a flat surface (some kind of table) and tighten them with clamps. In this case, they managed one, but preferably at least three. We tighten so that there are no gaps in the resulting shield. We leave for a day. Having removed the clamps, we get an almost finished countertop. It still needs to be trimmed - to align the edges, and then sand it. You can trim with a jigsaw or a regular hand saw. Using a grinder is difficult to get a straight line, but you can try. After grinding, we get a beautiful countertop.
Using the same technique, you can make an oval or round countertop. It will only be necessary to draw the appropriate line and cut the glued boards along it.
To make the table look more attractive, we will make a frame. We take a thin bar, process it with sandpaper and fasten it around the perimeter of the countertop. Finishing nails can also be used. Only the planks are also pre-lubricated with carpentry glue, and then with nails.
After the glue dries, we again process the junction with sandpaper.
Now you can attach the table legs. We assemble a table frame from four boards (there is no photo, but you can do it as in the previous paragraph). We fasten it to the back of the countertop with glue, then install it through the countertop furniture confirmations. Under the confirmations, a preliminary hole is drilled with an extension for the cap. Holes for fasteners are masked in the same way as on the legs.
We attach the legs to the fixed frame. We put them inside the frame. You can attach with ordinary screws. That's it, we made a table for giving with our own hands.
How to make a wooden garden table with benches
For this table, boards 38 * 89 mm were used (they dissolved themselves), but you can take standard sizes. The difference in millimeters will not really affect the results. In the photo below you can see what should happen.
To connect the parts, studs 16 cm long with washers and nuts (24 pieces) were used. All other connections are made with nails 80 mm long.
Parts are installed in place, drilled with a drill through hole. A stud is installed in it, washers are put on both sides and nuts are tightened. Everything is pulling up wrench. How convenient is this option? For the winter, you can disassemble and take it to a barn or garage.
Making seats
According to the drawing, we cut the boards of the required size. Everything is necessary in double quantity - for two seats. We grind the boards, pay special attention to the ends.
We cut the short segments with which we fasten the three seat boards along the edges at an angle of 45 °. First, we assemble a structure that is attached to the seat from below. We take a board about 160 cm long, at the end we attach two short boards cut at an angle to it. Attach it so that this board is in the middle.
Then we attach the legs to the resulting structure (you can use nails). Then we add more boards cut at an angle and tighten everything with studs and bolts.
We attach the seat boards to the resulting structure. Since this is a table for the street, it is not necessary to knock them down close. Leave a gap between two adjacent at least 5 mm. We nail to the supports (which are cut down), two for each board.
We fix the finished seats with four boards 160 cm long. We fasten each leg with studs (if you walk, you can put two studs by setting them diagonally or one above the other).
Putting together a table
The table is assembled in a different way. Please note that for the countertop, the transverse boards are sawn along the edges at 52 °. We fasten them at such a distance that the legs enter. Each board has 2 nails. You can finish, with small hats, or you can hammer deep, and then mask the holes with putty.
Now we need to assemble the legs-crosses. We take two boards, cross them so that the distance between their ends is 64.5 cm. We circle the intersection with a pencil. At this point, it will be necessary to remove the wood by half the thickness of the board.
We make the same notch on the second board. If you add them together, they are in the same plane. We connect with four nails.
Similarly, we make the second leg for the table. While the table is not collected.
Installing the table
Now you need to fix the legs to the structure on which the benches are installed. We put them at an equal distance from the benches, fasten them with hairpins.
Now install the table top. We also fasten it with studs. The last step is painting. Here everyone does as he pleases.
Variations on a theme
According to this drawing, you can make benches and a table separately for giving, garden. The design is reliable and easy to implement.
Do-it-yourself table for giving: drawings
The table is the second object after the stool, which a novice furniture maker should take up. Design simple table no more difficult than a stool; an unpretentious comfortable table for a summer cottage or for a picnic can be built in half a day using a hacksaw, a hammer and a drill. But a table made using the same technology and slightly ennobled can look great at home, on the left in the figure, instead of an expensively purchased one. However, the table also gives greater freedom of creative self-expression, it can be a significant and even key element of interior design, it is not for nothing that handicraft furniture makers are called carpenters, and not sofa makers, cabinetrs or bedside tables. Having mastered the carpentry craft, it will be possible to take up exclusive tables over time, the rest of the poses. there.
This article discusses how to make tables out of wood. Wood is an environmentally friendly, affordable and easily processed material with remarkable aesthetic qualities. In utilitarian products, she forgives rather gross mistakes for beginners, but fine woodwork requires high skill. Having learned how to make wooden things, then mastering glass, metal and plastic will be much easier.
Tool and workshop
To make a table with your own hands, you need a separate living rooms production room: Woodwork is notoriously dusty. In addition, such good means toning and protecting wood, like wood stains, emit harmful fumes during staining; nitro-varnishes, too, although to a lesser extent. Therefore, home carpentry should be well ventilated, and better - with forced ventilation. You can use the garage, but there will be a lot of sawdust, and they will not benefit the car. Better to work in the barn; if it doesn’t exist yet, then you can build it, but on the farm it will come in handy for a lot of things.
The usual carpentry tool, on the left in the figure, is enough for a start. But the work will go much faster, and the result will be better if modern achievements are brought to the rescue, right there:
- Swivel miter box, pos. 1, allows you to cut exactly in size and angle in 2 planes. It is advisable to take it with a complete bow saw, so everything together will be cheaper, and the work will be more accurate. The miter box is a universal device, it will always come in handy and it is better to buy it.
- Also universal is a manual electric jigsaw with an inclined shoe, pos. 2, which allows you to cut at an angle to the vertical plane.
- Disc grinder, pos. 3 and 4, it makes it possible for a beginner to get the surface of a wooden plate in 5-15 minutes, on which an experienced carpenter with a skin in his hand will take at least an hour, and tape, pos. 5, also quickly and efficiently process the ends; is there some more belt sanders for grooves and recesses with a protruding working body. These are already specialized tools, unsuitable for other work, and quite expensive, so it’s better to rent them first. True, craftsmen still successfully brush with grinders; artificially aging, a tree, but this is a delicate work.
- It is also preferable to rent at first manual frezer on wood, pos. 6, with a set of cutters. They process shaped edges, choose holes and grooves.
A universal household woodworking machine (UBDS) of various modifications is very useful on the farm. It is compact, fits on a table, powered by 220 V 50/60 Hz 380-500 W. UBDS combines circular saw, planer, wood lathe and a set of cutters. True, you can’t just grind the table legs on it, the tailstock caliper overhang is too small. But the caliper itself is just steel round pipe, it is easy to lengthen it. The stop of the cutter remains regular, it is mobile, the leg and with a long caliper are sharpened in one setting.
How to choose a tree?
A wooden table can be made from any wood of medium resistance to decay, except for the softest species: poplar, aspen, alder, willow, ailanthus. Of the domestic ones, these include:
The rocks are listed in order of availability. For example, timber harvesting horse chestnut, sycamore and juniper are not kept at all: the former are too valuable for landscaping in the southern regions, and the juniper is endangered and protected. Industrial harvesting of elm is almost entirely used for shoe lasts, weaving shuttles, etc., and mountain ash - on weapon stocks; complete plastic replacement they don't have yet. Stone birch grows very slowly, in limited places, does not renew well, so its harvesting is strictly regulated, and the wood is expensive.
Note: walnut is especially valuable for furniture - its wood combines high hardness with excellent viscosity, the most openwork walnut carving does not prick. And walnut wood from burls - large growths on the trunk - is not inferior in texture to Karelian birch.
At the beginning of a carpentry career, it is better to limit yourself to pine, birch, oak, acacia and boxwood. Pine or oak will go to the countertop; birch - on legs pine table; in the countertop, it is strongly warped from the spilled. Acacia and boxwood make excellent dowels, see below.
On a pine countertop made of boards, you can and even need to take low-grade cheap boards - knotty, serpentine. But, of course, without falling knots, cracks, wormholes and traces of rot in the form of spots of unnatural color: black, gray, blue, green, in general, not similar to this tree. For example, rot marks on black (ebony) wood may be whitish or yellowish.
Why is the countertop substandard? Perhaps also unedged, which needs to be finished on a circular and jointer? And after skillful processing of them, plates of remarkable beauty are obtained, on the left in fig. Manufacturers do not like such a tree: the production cycle is delayed, waste increases. But for yourself with your own hands, this is not so scary compared to the result.
wooden humpback
Commercial pine has a clearly defined zoning of wood in the form of annual growth rings; in other conifers and many hardwood she is there too. On the saw cut of the board, the rings form the so-called. humpback in the form of thin concentric arcs. If the top of the tree is directed across the face of the board, as in fig. in the center, then when rallying the shield for the tabletop (see below), the boards are oriented with humps alternately up and down, from below in fig. If the ridges are directed towards the end of the board (on the right in the figure), then the boards are placed in the shield with ridges in one direction. These subtleties are necessary so that during operation the countertop does not split or warp.
Varnishes, paints, impregnation, glue
A free means of protecting wood from decay is used motor oil, but for what they eat from, this is not the best option. Optimal will be 2-fold, with a break of 3-5 days, impregnation with a water-polymer emulsion (WPE), it will give protection to the table for the entire time of its life. Even birch plywood impregnated with WPE is suitable for furniture front panels: it is also varnished on top and does not delaminate.
Old furniture nitrocellulose varnishes NTs-218 and NTs-2144 with solvent No. 647 are gradually falling into disuse: they are superior in all respects acrylic varnishes on water based; in addition, they are safe to use. Also, glues, bone carpentry and BF-2 on alcohol are inferior to PVA; however, to obtain a high-quality seam, the latter requires applying glue to both surfaces, keeping them tack-free before joining, and holding them under pressure for 1-3 days, but in home production this is acceptable to you.
Wood for furniture can be pre-tinted and protected with a stain, which allows you to make beautiful typesetting parts; an example will be given below. To tint the assembled units, you can use paints based on the same lacquer and artistic (not paint!) dyes: oil in tubes for NC lacquers and acrylic water-based for the same lacquer.
First, they prepare a “painting”: they take 30-50 ml of varnish and squeeze 1-1.5 cm of paint into it with continuous thorough stirring with a paintbrush. The coloring is stored in a tightly closed vial and added to the varnish to the desired tone; a test for it is done on a piece of wood, the tone is determined by the complete drying of the varnish. Colored varnishes on NC and oil paints can be mixed according to the mixing rules oil paints for painting; acrylic - no restrictions.
First steps
The country table is the first of the homemade ones. If 1-2 brick pallets remain from the construction site, then the pallet table will be the first of the first. Not only because it is extremely simple, but also because it is very useful on the farm.
From one pallet, sanded, impregnated and varnished, it turns out garden table like a magazine, on the left in fig. If there is a pair available, in just half an hour you can make a wall-mounted desktop-rack, in the center and on the right. Chains for it can also be woven yourself from soft wire, covered with a PVC tube or, better, heat-shrinkable. To fully raise the tabletop small tool stacked on a wall pallet shelf.
With a little more work, a collapsible cutting table for a summer residence is made from one pallet, which allows you to transfer the summer-autumn harvesting campaign to the street without littering with husks and without trampling on the stumps. For the winter this table is collected in a compact package. The construction is clear from Fig; a bucket is placed under the hatch in the tabletop.
The next in order of complexity is the well-known country table-goats, colloquially a goat. Its construction of 40 mm boards is shown on the left in the figure, and in addition to it is a bench of the same device. And on the right - a country folding table on the same principle. It has swivel joints (M8-M12 bolts, washers and nuts with locknuts); in the place marked in green, a stop boss is placed on the nails between the crossbars of the tabletop. When folded, this table fits in the trunk of a car, so it will also go to a picnic. If this is not expected, or the trunk is larger, the countertop can be made longer.
Finally, it also does not require special tools and skills for a gazebo table, see fig. below. Material - the same magpie board and some inexpensive fasteners.
One step closer to art...
To advance in table building, now you need to learn some of the basics of carpentry. The table, in general, consists of a tabletop, its support frame, possibly with niches and / or mechanisms, or simply a plate - underframe - legs, and knots holding everything together. Let's go through them starting with the connections along with the legs, because. their fastening is the weakest point of the table.
Connections and legs
At first, we need to master the connection on dowels - round wooden bosses, see fig. Dowel joints are assembled on a quick-drying glue that does not require exposure: carpentry, BF-2, acrylic. Sometimes, instead of dowels, nails with bitten off hats are used to connect thin boards, pos. 4, but this is bad: the wood dries out, but the metal does not, and over time the connection becomes loose.
For dowels, a thin-layered tree is taken stronger than both connected parts, i.e. most hard rock. A pine table with birch legs can be joined on oak or beech dowels. On sale there are ready-made round sticks for cutting dowels; before use, chamfers are removed from the edges of the dowels. Plastic dowels are also sold, but they are intended exclusively for detachable connections, for example. inserts in sliding tables.
Legs for tables industrial production fastened with split sides, see fig. on right. Pos., marked in yellow - the simplest, cheapest and worst. With its shortcomings in the complete absence of advantages, buyers of Shiroptrebov's Soviet furniture are well aware, even if it remains there. Reliable, well-kept, except for the legs, and underframe boards, drawers with mortise jibs, “green” pos. They also require least cost, but rather laborious, so they are rarely used in industry, but just right for an amateur. Drawer side with shaped steel jib, top right in the figure, even stronger; in this way it is possible to fasten legs with a round head and in general any, however, purchased shaped parts made of high-quality steel are required.
Note: legs are attached to the round table, as shown below in fig.
Detachable legs are needed not only for ease of storage and transportation. In a small apartment narrow corridor a table with legs is often simply impossible to push up to the living room, no matter how you turn it. Modern apartments more spacious, and in 1-storey private houses the table can be served / given out the window, so in such cases, the strength and durability of the table with tightly fixed legs comes to the fore.
For tables on a rectangular base, the heads of the legs for blind fastening must also be rectangular, pos. 1 in fig. By the way, the tsargs are also one-piece: then the legs with dowels that pass through a mortise wooden jib. From the inside, the dowels are cut flush and wedged with dogwood or boxwood wedges inserted across the fibers of the jib wood. Assembled with glue, such a connection is so strong and durable that these 200-year-old tables can be fought by grabbing the leg.
Sufficiently high-quality tables on turned legs are assembled simply on dowels, pos. 2. For simpler tables, the legs are made of timber and fastened with self-tapping screws after attaching the tabletop to the tabletop, pos. 3. Even simpler and lighter are the legs of a pair of boards each, pos. 4 and 5. So that they do not cling to the floor, you need to stuff the thrust bearings on them below or put the table on wheels.
tabletop
The easiest, but not the cheapest way, is to order a countertop made of laminated chipboard (chipboard, laminate). Chipboard for countertops is available in the form of the so-called. postforming - slabs 3.6x1.2 m 20-60 mm thick with decorative coating. The upper edge of the postforming plate is rounded, the bottom face with a drip collector, see fig. Modern furniture laminate is quite environmentally friendly, no matter what gossip does not want to forget the co-furniture, which stank of phenol for months.
Postforming is well bought by small furniture enterprises. They always have his scraps; of them to you willingly and for quite affordable price they will cut the tabletop to size if the company has a jig saw. Perhaps such an order will be accepted by a single individual entrepreneur if he is sitting idle. The finished slab will be closed, i.e. cover the butt PVC piping(edge). If you will be edging yourself (the surcharge for edging is sometimes asked awkward), then keep in mind:
- The upper and lower flanges of the edging have a different profile, see on the left in fig. Confuse - there will always be a piping of dirt on the table.
- Kant must be taken exactly according to the thickness of the plate. It is possible to put on a 24 mm edging on a 25 mm plate, but it will soon slide off.
- The groove for the edging comb must be selected manually disc cutter; saw, it seems that no one has yet succeeded as it should.
- Before installing the edge, a thin layer is applied to the surface of the end silicone sealant and the “sausage” is squeezed out into the groove; in this case, the silicone will also be a lubricant, without which the ridge of the edge can simply be crushed.
- The comb is inserted into the groove with light blows of the mallet, gradually moving along the contour. The tabletop must lie face up on the support; squeezed out excess silicone is immediately washed with a clean rag slightly moistened with table vinegar.
Plank tabletops are rallied in plank clips with wedges and spacers - wimahs. Wimes are quite possible to make yourself; You need 3-4 for a table top. Wyme boards (cheeks) are wrapped in polyethylene so that the shield does not stick to them. On fig. for example - the process of manufacturing a round tabletop; rectangular rally in the same way, only cropping to size is easier. The shield is rallied onto the countertop with glue and dowels (see below); if the boards are grooved, dowels are not needed. When rallying to PVA, the next plot is kept until the applied glue is tacky before installation in the wyma.
Often, countertops are assembled without wyms on the plaza - flat surface, covered plastic wrap. It will not work to assemble a good plank shield on the plaza: either it will come out slitted, or the boards will stand on end when assembled. But typesetting tabletops from fragments are obtained in skillful hands just wonderful. For example, at pos. 1-3 fig. - a tabletop made of sawing waste, tinted with wood stain. And on pos. 4-5, the base of the tabletop was the plaz itself made of thick plywood. Tiled and her fight is glued tile adhesive, then the depressions are filled with drinking grout, the surface is lacquered and the contour is edged with a wooden lath.
Note: these examples do not illustrate all the possibilities of making do-it-yourself inlaid art tabletops.
Underframe
Table base with non-removable legs - simple wooden frame, on the left in Fig. Niches and details of mechanisms are not involved in the power circuit. If the table is longer than 1.2 m, or the tabletop is removable/sliding, or heavy operational loads are expected (for example, a work table), the underframe is reinforced with stiffeners in the center. If the legs are fastened with drawers, then the underframe is made integral with the tabletop to get a single power circuit, on the right in fig.
no frame
Tables without underframes are also known, in which the tabletop with legs work in a single carrier system. Very durable, eg. plywood table on the left in pic; its connections are shkantovye. Unfortunately, this is not an economical design for an amateur: the sidewalls cannot be assembled from pieces, they must be solid. In mass production, the waste is not very large, but a sheet of plywood with a thickness of 24 mm or more will go one piece for large sidewalls, and 1 more for smaller ones. The table on the right is already quite possible to make with your own hands: the supporting frame is prefabricated; connections - in a spike with a tightening bolt and half a tree. However, the countertop in this case should be round or square, with rounded or right angles.
... and get into the kitchen
Exactly. The table for the kitchen is the next in order of complexity after the simplest country ones. It must already meet the requirements of apartment ergonomics, dimensions - 75 cm in height for people of average completeness; the width of the seat for 1 eater / rider is 60-80 cm, depending on its corpulence, the width of the tabletop is at least 70 cm. The countertop should be easy to clean, durable, resistant to spilled heat from hot dishes.
All these requirements will be satisfied by a table made of chipboard on metal legs; they are also sold separately in sets of 4 pieces, with fasteners, on the left in fig. Factory legs for tables, as a rule, are supplied with height-adjustable heels. The table, the manufacture of which will be reduced to screwing the nests of the legs with confirmatory screws, will cost 30-50% cheaper than the whole purchased one, but in appearance it will not yield, on the right in Fig.
If you are not too lazy to put your hands on, steel legs you can do it yourself. This is not only a cheaper, but also a more durable option: the sockets of branded legs are cast from a rather fragile silumin, the fasteners weaken over time, they need to be tightened. You yourself can cut out nests from good steel, and weld your own legs into them.
The kitchen is more spacious, perhaps there is room for a larger table. In such a case - on the trail. rice. drawings of a kitchen table in a rustic style. "Rustic" this table is not only in appearance: it does not have any single nail and generally metal fasteners. Just wood and glue. A connoisseur, seeing such, nods his head in understanding and approval, and the design is simple and accessible to a beginner. True, in addition to the tabletop, you will have to rally the shields on the sidewalls, but in this case, the extra work is worth it.
Kruglyashi
Table with round tabletop appropriate in any room, if it fits there. But the table top made of boards in this case is not the best. the best option: due to availability sharp corners it is without a frame, very complex and laborious, subject to splitting. Type-setting countertops from small fragments, like the one described above from waste, are free from this drawback; unlike laminate rounds, they are decorative, stylish, unique, and practically free.
There are even more sharp corners in a small-type table top, but here the “broom law” works. Not the American senator Venik, who loves democracy in Russia to the point of complete oblivion of it at home, but the broom with which they sweep the rubbish. As you know, it is impossible to break him (a broom, not a senator) tied up, and a child will break twig after twig. So here, due to the ease of distributing loads between small fragments, the table top made of them works like a solid plate, and you can cut it off after assembly even with the letter zyu.
Note: the idea of the senator-broom, sorry, Venik, was suggested by the statement of his compatriot Samuel Clemens, world-famous as Mark Twain: “I affirm, and undertake to prove it, that Mr. Cooper has no more fantasies than a bull. But not the bull that lows in the pasture, but the one that is the support of the bridge.
How to make a semi-folding round table is shown in fig; on the right there are the dimensions of the countertop and the assembly order. And in fig. upper right - small round table for the hallway, according to the old classification - business card. Its feature is minimum quantity connections; glue assembly. Any kruglyash will go to the countertop, from a stump saw cut to a cardboard one, made according to the method of manufacturing cardboard shelves, but the underframe must be durable, made of wood (dvuhsotka board) or chipboard.
Moving on to the living room
Table in main room at home should be to face the whole house. At the same time, with the modern desire for laconic design (which also saves living space costs), the table should for the time being, for the time being, not be striking and occupy smaller place. Therefore, one of the most sought-after pieces of furniture of our days has become a transforming table.
The simplest transformable table, which, with all its transformations, remains a table, and does not turn into a closet or bed - a bedside table; it is quite possible to make it with your own hands "from scratch". There are 2 most common options here. On the left in fig. - the table is unfoldable, it has a record ratio of occupied areas in expanded and collapsed form. These are most often placed in studio apartments perpendicular to the wall on the border of the kitchen and living areas. With the tabletop wings lowered, it will serve as a bar. Raising the wings one at a time, you can get a kitchen or everyday dinner table, and fully deployed (in the center), it will provide a place for a rather crowded banquet.
A bachelor living in a small apartment is more suitable for a folding bedside table, on the right in fig. It's basically 2 small round folding tables described above, connected by a rectangular insert. You can have lunch alone from it folded, because, unlike the previous version, there is where to put your legs. And having unrolled, spend a romantic evening with a beautiful stranger or sincere gatherings with friends.
All of the above qualities combine coffee-dining tables-transformers with a mechanism. The variety of transformation mechanisms is great, but for tables that are always tables, they basically come down to 2 types: an elevator (pantograph) and a book. How one and the other work, see the video:
Theoretically, a book is more stable than an elevator, although much depends on the quality of execution. It is more popular among book lovers, because the mechanism-book can still be made independently, and the elevator outside the production environment is unlikely.
How the table-book is laid out is shown in stages in fig. on right. For its independent production, you need to know that the key unit is the damping-balancing elastic link. In fairly expensive branded designs, very soft gas dampers (gas lifts) are used, but it is better for an amateur to stop at a spring damper, and not because a gas lift is much more expensive.
The fact is that the gas lift must be coordinated within fairly narrow limits with the kinematics of the lever system, the weight of the table top, underframe and the own weight of the levers. If the balance of the entire system does not fit into its characteristics, the mechanism simply will not work. And the spring can always be tightened / loosened; V last resort replace. In general, an unsuccessful home-made transforming table with gas lifts rarely manages to be “brought to mind”, and spring almost always. If you still decide to suffer with a homemade acrobat table, in fig. - drawings of the spring transformation mechanism.
Without the availability of or access to drilling, turning and milling machines for metal, most parts of the transformation mechanism will have to be ordered. Then its production will cost a little about $40, and you can buy a good ready-made one for $50-$60. A factory-made transforming coffee table rarely costs less than $200, so even in this situation, the savings are significant.
The transformer table is made under the mechanism. One of the most popular are the Mazetti transformation mechanisms, thanks to good quality at a moderate price for this class of products. In addition, Mazetti movements are available in a supporting frame (inset in the center in the figure), which greatly simplifies installation. The rest of the pos. in fig. show the device and the dimensions of the table for this mechanism.
For a strong feast
Whatever you say, but in a normal family with children, friends and relatives, crowded gatherings at the table cannot do without, and here the transforming table will not always help out. However, we will leave more or less full banquet tables for the living room, as they say, for later: these are products of a higher order of complexity; primarily because of the extension mechanism.
By the way, the good old “sliders” with wooden guides and wooden sliders of the halves of the tabletop (item 1 in the figure) are quite convenient and reliable if properly executed, in addition to this, they can be made by yourself, but such a process requires a special detailed description. Modern sliding mechanisms with telescopic full extension guides, pos. 2, allow you to use not 1, but up to 3-5 inserts, which increases the capacity of the table by 6-10 people, respectively, but they are quite expensive, and their installation requires a description of no less voluminous.
There are banquet tables with clamshell inserts, pos. 3. In elite models, when sliding / sliding the halves of the tabletop, the insert lifts, unfolds and puts in place or removes a very complex mechanism back into the underframe, but it manual options available to make at home.
As for banquet tables with retractable individual tables, arranged like a keyboard stand in a computer desk, they cannot be called popular by any means: leaning forward (and how to avoid this if the house is without servants?), We get the board back into the underframe, and our portion of treats - for festive clothes.
But let's not talk about sad things. Recall that the table is not always pushed apart, and you can use the side table, but the whole table is in any case more reliable. Therefore, in the series of drawings below - a way to make a very durable and inexpensive dining table, and how it looks "live" - see the left in fig. at first.
In addition
A table, and indeed any furniture, often wants to be painted not just with stripes or artistically painted. To protect the drawing from external influences and to ensure the possibility of updating the varnish if necessary, the paints should not be applied, but rubbed into the wood before varnishing. The technique of painting by layer-by-layer rubbing of paints is called glazing. So in conclusion, we offer a master class on wood glazing.
Video: wood glazing master class
The table is the second item after the stool that every novice furniture maker should be able to do. The table can be created from different materials and have unique features. A great intention for you will be the desire to make your product out of wood.
A wooden table is fairly easy to create with your own hands, it is enough to have minimal skills in working with carpentry tools. And the cost of the material will be significantly less than a table using metal, glass or plastic.
A piece of furniture made by oneself will correspond as closely as possible to the desires of a happy owner, and will delight the eye incomparably more than purchased. And most importantly, when creating a table with your own hands, important skills are acquired in working with the material, which will make the restoration of operational defects much easier.
What makes a good table
A particularly beautiful countertop can be made from cheap, non-sorted pine boards, knotty and serpentine (without falling knots, rot, fungus, wormholes), which, when well processed, give a wonderful pattern, to achieve which, when working with an expensive tree, much more effort and effort must be applied.
When choosing a material, it is important to take care of the strength of the future product. To do this, pay attention to the density of wood.
Soft (spruce, pine, chestnut, dogwood) is easily damaged during operation, which adversely affects the durability of the table. But scratches and dents can be hidden, although the restoration process will be quite frequent.
Hard woods (beech, ash, maple, oak, walnut, fruit woods, elm) are quite difficult to handle on their own. And you may have to look for masters to work with them. But ensure the durability of the product.
External characteristics
It is very important to determine in advance for yourself the appearance of your future product. Basic Rule good table it is considered if the design fits well into the space allotted for it and leaves a lot of free space for those sitting.
It is also important to consider that a table with a rectangular top will accommodate fewer people than a table with a round or oval shape with the same area. And it would be more expedient to make a table for guests in a folding version, which unfolds for big holidays, and is folded in everyday life. Also, such a folding table will be convenient in the backyard.
Most often it is required to choose a kitchen table. It should be roomy and pleasing to the eye, to facilitate the process of working with him. But it should not interfere with movements in the room and in no way interfere with the process of culinary creativity.
Based on this, it is absolutely clear that the size of the table is selected depending on the area of \u200b\u200bthe room. Also, softwoods cannot be used for the kitchen table due to its use in "extreme" conditions.
Choice external characteristics products are a responsible process, therefore, before starting the formation of a table for a summer residence with your own hands, it is extremely necessary to carefully assess the needs for which this table is being made.
Transferring ideas to paper
When creating a design that is the fruit of your imagination, you will have to develop a diagram and drawings of your table with your own hands. Why there is a huge variety of electronic programs.
After a thorough development process, it is extremely important to transfer the result to paper. For fast and high-quality work, it is very important to use this manual constantly.
creative process
Preparation of drawings is the last preparatory stage. Next, you can proceed to the most important part of the work - the manufacture of parts. wooden tables do-it-yourself creations are much easier if the drawings and diagrams are as informative as possible. This reduces the chance of errors to a minimum.
You can personally make both a desk and a coffee table or children's version. With a certain skill, it is realistic to create and computer desk. As well as a dining or country model. Each of the options is quite easy to implement.
The canvas for the countertop and the board with the bars, from which the rest of the parts will be formed, are processed with the available tool or, at worst, with coarse-grained sandpaper to remove defects present in the form of bumps and protruding knots.
Boards are sanded from all sides, including side edges and corners. If you are creating a canvas from wood cuts, you need to make sure that they are dry enough, and also close up small cracks found after visual inspection. And it's better to screw them. To get a more reliable grip of the canvas and save time on assembling the elements.
Transfer the scheme to the finished canvas. The main elements are cut with an electric jigsaw and, if necessary, the sections are ground. The protruding support elements are cut off by about 3 centimeters. Horizontal cuts are made on both sides of the supports (legs).
The blanks are covered with a preparation that prevents the ingress of moisture and pests, and only after the final drying is it allowed to resume the process of creating the table with your own hands.
Putting the details together
After making all necessary details you can start worship. Namely, to collect the desired masterpiece together. And it can be either a round table or any other selected product.
First you need to collect supporting structure using screws and glue (at first, thin channels are drilled with a drill for the length of the screw, otherwise there is a possibility of splitting the part). Galvanized screws can be used for connection, as they do not rust, and this is very important for wood products. Or wood glue.
According to the basic rules, the frame in length and width should be 30-25 cm less than the countertop.
From the sides you need to attach additional boards to stiffen and hide the place where the legs are attached. Cut off the chamfers in the places where the legs are installed.
Then the table leg is fastened in place with clamps, and holes for the bolts are drilled into the frame. Install the support elements in their places and fix them with stoppers. Strengthen the structure with wood glue. Then install the countertop in place for which furniture corners are used. At the very end, all visible screws are hidden with wood-colored plugs.
The final stage. Finishing
A photo of the completed table can be seen below. Achieving this result is surprisingly easy. Optionally, you can round either only the corners or the entire end, depending on the type of table. It will be nice to make chamfers on the edges of the tabletop.
Roughnesses are polished in the entire structure, with the help of putty, mistakes are hidden. To extend the life of a table assembled by oneself, it is necessary to cover it with several layers of varnish or stain.
So do it yourself beautiful table made of wood is a fairly simple leisure activity. And easy to do. The guarantee of extracting a sound, ideal in terms of dimensions and aesthetic result according to your drawings is: exact adherence to the instructions, error-free execution and carefully selected material. And the resulting table will harmoniously fit into the exterior.
DIY table photo
