secure door in a do-it-yourself bath made of wood or other material, not only serves to retain heat inside the building. This and element overall design, which must meet the aesthetic needs of the owner. The choice of material for bath door should be given Special attention: the entrance can be made from a processed grooved board or lining, sheathed with insulation. Internal doors do not need heat-insulating properties, therefore both wooden and glass doors to the steam room are considered equally good.
You can make a classic wooden door for a bath with your own hands without any special skills. But for this you will have to choose high-quality wood, which requires minimal processing. Lumber should not have knots, cracks or traces of rot, and its surface should be even. The boards must be well dried, otherwise the door made from them will lead.
The best materials for making doors:
- boards that are processed at the enterprise so that they have a groove and a ledge (grooved);
- eurolining, which is a ready-made wooden elements with a groove and a spike for connecting the web;
- plywood and bars (suitable only for the entrance group).
If the owner has the skills of a carpenter and necessary tools and equipment, then he can afford to independently make a panel structure from edged boards.
When making a door for a bath in entrance group you can choose wood of any kind: it is less exposed to high temperatures than entrance structure to the wig. Interior canvases are best made from hardwood (oak, linden, etc.), which do not emit resin.
To insulate the canvas, an XPS sheet, roll insulation and upholstery (leatherette) may be required. When making internal doors in the bathhouse, they are not needed.
How to make doors to the bath with your own hands?
There are several ways to make a door leaf available to a person with minimal woodworking skills:
- assembly of a massive shield from boards and bars;
- production of a type-setting cloth from transverse elements (euro-lining);
- frame-panel canvas made of sheet material.
Installing the door in the opening consists of the following steps:
- box manufacturing;
- fixing the box in the opening;
- hanging canvas;
- front door insulation.
To make a door to the bath, you need to sequentially perform all these operations. The final result depends on the accuracy of the work and the accuracy of fitting all parts. door block.
Tools
To perform each stage of work, you need your own tools, but if the farm does not have complex devices, you can rent them. To assemble the front or inner door to the bath with your own hands step by step, you will need the following:
- hacksaw hand or circular saw for cutting wood;
- planer and sandpaper;
- jointer (for sampling quarters);
- chisel and hammer;
- drill with a screwdriver;
- milling cutter manual;
- fasteners (self-tapping screws, nails);
- measuring instruments and building level;
- assembly foam.
Fittings for bath doors may differ from those used for hanging doors in the house. The hinges serve as an element of decor, and the design wooden bath allows the use of forged and shaped products. Handles can be made independently from wood. When buying ready-made, you should prefer the same material, because in the steam room it does not heat up as much as metal.
measurements
The size of the door for the bath is determined by the size of the opening. For accuracy, measurements are taken in two places vertically and horizontally. If the door needs to be inserted into a log cabin bath, then the opening should be prepared in advance, and then measurements should be taken:
- a groove is made at the ends of the logs facing the opening;
- a bar 50 mm thick is inserted into it so that part of the casing protrudes into the opening;
- make a cross member and a threshold from a thick board with a recess for casing bars and fix it at the top and bottom of the opening;
- measurements for the box are made between the side bars and the upper and lower trim strips.
It is easier to determine the dimensions of the door leaf after installing the frame in the opening, by measuring the vertical and horizontal distances in the porch.
Fabric making
The simplest option do-it-yourself doors to the steam room - a shield made of solid wood. To make it, you need to choose grooved boards and lay them out on a flat surface. On the ends there are curvilinear stripes - traces of the annual rings of the tree. Adjacent parts should be positioned so that the direction of the rings is opposite to each other. So the door trim will not lead to moisture.
The grooves of the boards and their protrusions must be connected so that a minimum gap remains. Cut 2 bars, the length of which is equal to the width of the door leaf. The bars are mounted on a board shield at the top and bottom of the structure. The connection can be made different ways:
- Lay the block on the surface of the boards in the transverse direction. Mount on self-tapping screws, screwing them from the side of the bar so that there are no traces of fasteners on the front side. Sometimes they act differently and drive fasteners with front side doors, sinking the heads into the wood. The recesses are covered with a special composition of glue and small sawdust. For the strength of this design, it is desirable to install a jib located diagonally between 2 parallel segments of the bar.
- Connection without fasteners is more difficult. To make a canvas, connect the boards, put a 5x5 cm bar on top, cut off from two sides. Its profile resembles a trapezoid. The narrowing is 1.5 cm and is performed smoothly, along the entire length of the part. Draw lines on the canvas corresponding to the profile of the bar. Cut a groove, deepening it by ½ the thickness of the bar and observing the angle of inclination of the side surfaces. Remove the wood from the groove with a chisel and level the surfaces. Push the bars from the wide side of the groove. In a room with high humidity, the mount will not dry out.
From lining
To assemble a door from a lining, you need boards with a thickness of at least 2.5 cm, with selected quarters on the sides facing the inside of the canvas. The length of the vertical strapping bars should be equal to the height of the canvas, and the horizontal ones - to its width. Connect the frame parts in a half-wood way, choosing a part of the wood at the ends of the planks. Lubricate the recesses with glue, connect the parts and tighten with clamps. Drill after dry through holes and insert wooden dowels with glue into them.
Saw the lining in equal segments. Their length is equal to the distance between the boards in the selected quarters (vertically or horizontally). At the extreme lining, cut off the side with the groove, and lay the part in the frame, in the groove of the selected quarter. The remaining elements are joined, tightly driving the spikes into the grooves. Cut the last plank so that it fits snugly into the remaining gap. Attach a wide bead around the perimeter of the frame.
Frame-panel
In the manufacture of such a canvas, it is worth considering that in order to insulate it, a heat-insulating layer must be placed inside the door. Therefore, you need to prepare an XPS sheet or other material in advance. Make a frame from a 3x3 cm bar:
- choose at the ends ½ thickness for a length of 3 cm from the edge;
- connect long and short bars into a frame, laying the selected parts on top of each other so that the mating surfaces form one plane;
- screw the screws into the junction of the planks;
- make 1-2 cross braces, choosing a groove in long slats in the same way as on the ends.
Attach plywood or MDF to the frame on 1 side of the door. Put a heater between the bars and foam the gaps between the XPS and the slats. Close the top with a sheet of plywood and attach it with self-tapping screws around the perimeter and to the crossbars.
Warming
If the canvas of the entrance door to the bathhouse is made of boards or lining, then it must be insulated in order to reduce heat loss during heating. Felt, batting or polyethylene foam is used for insulation. The material must be measured according to the size of the door, cut and fixed on the canvas with furniture staples or nails, leaving free edges at least 5 cm wide.
Leatherette is well suited for door trim. The material is cut in such a way that it is possible to bend the edges under the insulation by 2-2.5 cm. In order for the upholstery to lie flat, the material begins to be fixed from the middle. Fasteners are decorative upholstery nails with large hats. To form a convex pattern between the nails, you need to pull the fishing line tightly.
Along the perimeter of the door, you need to attach leatherette rollers, inside of which a heater is laid. The edges of the rollers are nailed to the door with decorative nails with a small step (5-10 cm). The seam can be made decorative: fill the nails closely, in 2 rows, in a zigzag, etc.
Box making
The door frame to the bath is made of a thick chopping block (at least 5 cm thick). Along the outer edge of the parts, on the side where the door will open, you need to choose quarters along the entire length. Their depth should be equal to the thickness of the canvas, and the width is about 3 cm. Connect the parts of the door frame in the corners with screws or nails, after removing part of the inner protrusion in the porch.
Installation
Installation of the door frame is carried out on the anchor, if the bath is made of concrete or brick. The box must be fixed in the opening with wedges, aligning it in two planes vertically. Check the levelness of the threshold and top bar. Drill 2 holes in the sidewalls for the anchor and insert the fasteners. Fill gaps with mounting foam.
If the bath is from a log house, then on the wrong side of the sidewalls it is necessary to make a groove for the previously installed casing bar. To do this, make parallel cuts, and choose wood with a chisel. The box is attached to the bar, and not to the logs of the log house. Threshold and upper crossbar must be nailed to casing strips. This design of the doorway in the bath is not blown through, and it is impossible to foam the gaps.
After installing the frame, you need to hang the bath door. When using shaped hinges, the canvas should be installed in the opening and fixed with wedges to obtain a uniform gap of 2-3 mm around the perimeter. Attach the loop bracket with nails or self-tapping screws to the frame, and the shaped strip to the canvas.
If the loops are overhead, then you will need to make recesses for them on the edge of the canvas and in the porch. Attach the loop cards in the recesses so that they do not protrude above the surface of the wood. The pin parts are fixed on the frame with spikes up, and the counterpart is on the canvas.
In conclusion, platbands are attached around the box, which close the junction of the wall and the box. Handles on the door put on comfortable height. If necessary, mount a padlock, latch or hook for constipation.
Real wooden bath rightly considered not only a place for taking hygiene procedures - washing, but also an excellent tool for relieving psychological stress, recuperating after hard working days. However, to achieve this effect, it is necessary to create optimal conditions to maintain a certain atmosphere in the premises - the desired temperature and humidity conditions.
Doors and windows are those structural elements through which cold air, therefore, when choosing and installing them, you need to act very carefully and carefully. Making a door to the bathhouse with your own hands, step by step moving from one stage to another, is within the power of anyone who knows how to work with carpentry tools and has the opportunity to purchase suitable material.
It should be noted right away that to create the appropriate conditions in the bath, you will need not one door, but at least two. One of them is installed at the entrance to the building itself, and the second will separate the steam room from the dressing room. But if there are several rooms in the bath, in addition to the main ones, for example, a rest room, a shower room, a washing room, a bathroom, etc., then more doors will be required, since each room corresponds to a certain mode.
For installation in the bath, several types of doors are used. They are mainly divided according to the material of manufacture - these are glass, combined, consisting of wood and glass, euro-options, which have increased tightness, and traditional wooden ones, which can be called the most popular.
For the front door of the bath, if it is not the only one, almost any of the listed types will do. But each of them must be well insulated and ensure the maximum possible closing density of the opening.
glass doors
Glass doors, as a rule, are an attribute of saunas, separating a dry steam room from a dressing room or washing room. They are produced in various color scheme, the surfaces of some models are decorated with drawings. Glass can be transparent, translucent or frosted, installed in a frame or attached to a door frame using special fittings.
Do-it-yourself glass doors are quite difficult to make - you can only install them yourself. When choosing such a door for a sauna, you need to carefully consider the accessories that come with the product. Important criteria when choosing are the practicality, reliability and safety of these elements, and only then - their beauty.
Handles installed in the glass sheet should not burn hands, and canopies should securely hold it in the box.
Silicone seals are always attached to the glass doors for the sauna, which provide the necessary tightness when it is closed.
As latchproviding a good fixation of the door in the box when closing, a magnet is used that is installed in the handle and the door jamb. Such a lock is always functional and never jams.
Sometimes, instead of magnets, ball latches are installed on the doors. They are less reliable, as they begin to jam over time, so glass bath door magnets are the best option.
It is recommended to choose models with three hinged hinges, as they will not only more securely hold the canvas made of high-strength tempered glass with a thickness of 8 ÷ 10 mm, but also provide comfortable opening and fixation when closed.
The door frame for installing the glass sheet is usually made of an aluminum profile, into which it is convenient to install seals, and where the door itself fits perfectly. Thanks to these materials, a completely waterproof kit is obtained. Its only weak point will be seals, which wear out over time under the influence of high temperatures and high humidity, but these elements are easy to periodically replace with new ones.
Installation of glass doors
To install any door with high quality, you need to calculate everything very accurately, and glass version t requires a special approach.
- Glass doors are mounted in a box that does not have a threshold, and thus, a gap of 5 ÷ 7 mm is left between the floor and the leaf for free movement.
- When installing the kit, it is very important to correctly install the door frame, as the glass door leaf it will not be possible to fit her. Therefore, the vertical and horizontal parts of the box must be located strictly at right angles to each other, otherwise the door may not enter the decorated opening or it will not fit snugly against the jamb.
- The box is shipped by building level and attached to the wall with screws. The box should be slightly smaller than the doorway, so that during installation it would be possible to align it and fix it in the desired position, spreading it with wooden wedges, through which the self-tapping screws will be screwed into the wall.
- The gaps formed between the box and the wall are filled with mounting foam, and the excess that protrudes beyond its limits is cut off after solidification.
- Further, a silicone sealant is placed in special grooves in the box.
- If the box is installed securely and correctly, it will be easy to hang a glass door into it. Holes for mounting canopies are provided in the finished canvas - they will only need to be carefully fixed, not forgetting to install special silicone gaskets between metal and glass.
- After that, the door is exposed and screwed to the jamb.
- The next step is fixed handles with latches. This moment should not make it difficult - for them, as well as for awnings, special holes are provided.
- As the last step, the foamed gaps between the wall and the box are closed with decorative platbands.
Today, glass doors are increasingly preferred to wooden or combined. They are used for different types baths, but the only thing you need to be prepared for is a fairly high price for glass door panels.
Doors with double-glazed windows
For the entrance door to the bath, a metal-plastic door with insulation is also well suited. It is hermetically sealed and will not allow cold air to enter the premises; the sauna premises from the entrance side are not cooled.
Such a door is also suitable for a shower room, as well as for a rest room, but for a steam room, you can safely choose a wooden canvas with an installed double-glazed window.
Since the bath rooms have high humidity, a door made of oak, cedar or larch is chosen for them. This wood has a dense structure, so it almost does not absorb moisture, and with the right finish it becomes moisture resistant.
A modern wooden door, equipped with double-glazed windows, consists of wooden frame which is reinforced with aluminum inserts. One or more double-glazed windows can be installed in the canvas, which create additional lighting for the room.
This door does not need special care or periodic repairs, since wood treated using a special technology not only does not react to moisture and does not swell, but also does not dry out. Due to this, cracks do not form on it, and it does not require their sealing and periodic painting. The surface of the canvas needs only wiping soft cloth, A double-glazed windows - cleaning on both sides with window cleaner.
Such doors will last much longer than ordinary wooden ones, without bringing any worries.
Door installation
Installing a door frame with a double-glazed window is in many ways similar to installing a jamb for a glass door. It must also be level and level with wooden braces. But the box is often attached to the wall with special metal plates or through the “ears” fixed on the jambs of the box.
The cracks formed around the box during its installation are also sealed with mounting foam, and then closed with platbands, which should come with the door frame and leaf.
On installed box the door itself is mounted - it is put on the scales. The convenience of this option is that all connecting elements already fitted and fixed on the door and frame, it remains only to combine them into a single structure.
Wooden door
Despite the appearance modern designs, wooden doors for baths do not go out of fashion, as they are traditional for these buildings. They are made from larch and cedar, pine and oak, that is, from wood that resists high humidity well. Doors for a bath are made paneled, massive or frame multi-layered.
- Massive doors are made of thick, moderately dried tongue-and-groove boards. For doors installed at the entrance to the steam room, the obligatory elements are transverse bars - the so-called dowels. They are necessary for reliable fastening of the boards of the shield, preventing its deformation. These crossbars are mounted in two places of the assembled canvas. Sometimes, if necessary, they are supplemented with a diagonal brace.
- A paneled door is more difficult to manufacture, as it consists of several curly parts that must be assembled into a single canvas and fit perfectly to each other.
The paneled door is perfect for installation at the entrance to the bath, but it will not be very correct to install it in the steam room. Very significant temperature differences can adversely affect the interface of individual parts of this design.
Prices for grooved boards
grooved boards
Video: in detail - about the manufacture of a paneled wooden door
- And this diagram clearly shows how a multilayer frame door in a steam room. In this case, the door consists of:
- Interior door trim.
- Vapor barrier material.
- Insulation - it can be polystyrene foam or mineral wool.
- Door frame made of 50 mm thick timber.
It should be noted that the door, consisting of several layers, is more suitable for saunas, as they use dry steam for procedures. In the steam room of the Russian bath, it is recommended to install a massive one, assembled from thick boards.
Production of a massive door
It will be difficult to make a paneled door without work experience, but you can try a massive one, taking into account some recommendations and following the sequence of work.
Bath door size
During the construction of the bath, all actions should be aimed at maintaining the desired temperature in the premises. Important milestones are high-quality insulation, vapor barrier, interior and exterior finishes. Of particular importance are the height of the ceiling and the dimensions of the doors and windows. In the bath door and window openings, usually, made smaller than residential buildings. So, the entrance to the steam room is usually limited to a height of 1600 ÷ 1700 mm. This is done so that the steam lingers longer inside the room and does not go outside when the door is opened. In the old Russian baths, the doors were even lower, the doorways were only 1450 ÷ 1500 mm high.
The width of the entrance to the steam room is 600 ÷ 750 mm, while the doorway in a residential building is mainly 800 mm.
The opening for entering the steam room of a Russian bath must necessarily have a high threshold, at least 150–200 mm. The size of the door will be counted from the threshold. If a passage to the sauna is performed, then it is not necessary to make a threshold, and a ventilation gap of 5 ÷ 10 mm is left between the door leaf and the floor.
Door materials
Depending on the choice of door design, different building materials may be required.
To make a solid wood door, you will need:
- Beam for crossbar - dowel, section 50 × 45 mm.
- grooved batten with a groove-thorn lock, 50 mm thick, its width should be a multiple of the width of the door.
- Stainless metal hinges 3 pcs.
- Wooden double-sided door handle.
- Beam for the box, section 60 × 80 mm.
To make a prefabricated door, you need to prepare:
- Beam for strapping and boxes, section 60 × 80 mm.
- Grooved floorboard, section 36×120 mm.
- Wooden lining, 12 × 96 mm in size.
- Hanging hinges 3 pcs.
- Door handle 2 pcs.
- Pins for fastening furniture parts.
Choice of wood
Separately, it must be said about the choice of wood for the manufacture of doors, since the quality and durability depend on it. The type of wood was mentioned above, so only a few words about the quality of the material.
The optimal moisture content of wood for comfortable processing and its good "behavior" after the assembly of the structure is 12–15%. It is best to purchase lumber dried in a special chamber - such parts are definitely not deformed, and they will not lead.
Boards and beams need to be checked for evenness by laying them on a flat surface and trying to connect them together. They must not be wave-shaped or cranked in the form of a propeller.
Boards are selected with the desired thickness, which can vary from 25 to 50 mm. Before applying the material, it must be brought to a smooth state with a grinder or manually with fine-grained sandpaper. For convenience, sandpaper can be fixed on a piece of wooden block.
Woodworking Tools
To work with wood, you need to have the following tools at hand:
- Electric jigsaw or saws with different size teeth.
- The hammer is normal and rubber.
- Screwdriver.
- Plane.
- Sander and sandpaper of different grits.
- Clamps for compressing the glued shield.
- Chisel.
- Manual or stationary milling machine This will greatly simplify a number of operations.
- Building level.
- Tape measure or folding rule.
Making a solid wood door
Getting started, you need to remember that the steam room door should only open outward - this is necessary to ensure safety. Hinged loops and crossbars are located outside, in order to avoid exposure to high humidity and temperature.
Installing doors in a log cabin has a very important feature. When sawing the opening, the relationship between the logs of the log house is weakened, and this must be compensated in some way. The second feature is that a wooden frame gives a very significant shrinkage, and this process is very long and difficult to predict. Therefore, I always make the opening for the door much larger than the box itself and the canvas. It is considered optimal to leave at least 100 mm of margin.
To prevent the log house from rolling into doorway, logs or beams must be connected with one common vertical part. Here you can do it in two ways:
Select the material along the ends of the logs in the opening so that a spike (pos. 1) is obtained, on which the details of the door frame will be put on - a corresponding groove is prepared for this.
- Cut a groove in the doorway (pos. 2), into which a beam (pos. 3) is inserted, which becomes a spike for installing a door frame on it. This method is considered more preferable and easier to implement.
In any case, the door frame is given a certain degree of freedom - it is not tightly attached to the logs of the log house, which will not allow the door structure to warp during shrinkage or wedge.
Video: how to install a door in a log cabin
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation to be performed |
|---|---|
 | If the door will be mounted in a log bath, then before installing door frame, a vertical groove is cut in the end part of the logs for laying a beam measuring 50 × 60 mm in it, which is deepened into the logs by 30 mm. The beam should enter freely enough, so that it can move up and down, but not hang out in the groove. The beam is not fixed either on glue or on fasteners |
 | The protruding part of the beam will serve as a spike for installing jamb elements on it, in which U-shaped grooves are selected with a milling cutter. |
 | Grooves are also cut out in the threshold, into which the jamb beam is installed. Such a reliable fastening of the box to the ends of the walls will allow you to hang even the heaviest door on it. |
 | The door frame itself is made of timber with a section of 60 × 80 mm. A groove is cut along its wide side, which joins with a spike mounted in the end of the wall. Having prepared the elements of the box, it is fixed in the opening and the threshold set in advance. The gap between the upper jumper of the jamb and the opening is 100 mm. |
 | Since the door from the steam room should open outward, inner edge the boxes are glued and a bar 10 ÷ 12 mm thick is screwed. Its width is determined depending on the thickness of the door. Another, more difficult option- milling a ledge along the entire length of the door frame parts. |
 | After that, the exact dimensions are taken from the outside of the box, according to which the door leaf will be made. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the gaps between the leaf and the door frame - they should be about 4 mm, since operation is expected in conditions of high humidity. |
 | Next, you can proceed to the manufacture of the door. The board prepared for the canvas is marked and sawn into right size. |
 | When assembling a shield from boards, you need to make sure that the structural pattern of annual rings is located in the same way. |
 | The boards are laid out on a flat workbench and assembled in one plane with wood glue. If necessary, knock them out rubber mallet- they should be tightly fitted to each other. After assembling the boards into a shield, on one side of the finished canvas, the remaining spike is carefully cut off, and the edge is processed. Then, in two or three places, the assembled shield is pressed with clamps and left to dry completely. |
 | Further, the entire surface must, if necessary, be leveled with an electric planer. Often, the shield is additionally trimmed with a milling cutter, achieving a perfectly flat surface of its edges. |
 | The finished shield must be fastened from the outside with crossbars - dowels that are made of timber. The length of the keys should be equal to the width of the finished shield. The diagram shows the shape and dimensions of such dowel bars. Usually they are made in the form of a straight prism with an isosceles trapezium in cross section. |
 | Having made the key, it is laid with a wide side on the surface of the shield and lines are drawn that are transferred to the amount of penetration of the part into the shield. |
 | Notches are made in the shield, first on one side, and then on the other, observing the angle of inclination of the side faces of the key. The depth of the shaped groove should be approximately 10 ÷ 15 mm. Next, carefully using a chisel, wood is removed from the groove. If you have a tool and work skills, it is more convenient to use a milling cutter instead of a chisel. |
 | Joiner's glue is applied to the finished groove, and then the key itself is hammered from the side. In order for it to go there easier, the bottom plane of the groove must be made as even as possible. Installing the key in the groove, it can be knocked out with a rubber mallet. |
 | This is how the door shield with installed jumpers - dowels will look like. |
 | Hanging loops are screwed onto the finished shield with installed crossbars. After that, a place for fixing the reciprocal parts of the hinges is marked on the door frame. To do this, you need to take the exact size between the hinges on the door and transfer them to the jamb of the box. Having determined the exact location, the hinges are fixed on the jamb, and then the finished door is hung on them. |
 | Finally, wooden handles are installed on the door on both sides. |
Frame door manufacturing
This type of door differs from the one made of massive boards in that the cladding elements are mounted on a frame made of timber.
If you plan to make a door 50 mm thick, which will be sheathed wooden clapboard 10 mm on both sides, then for the frame, respectively, it is necessary to take a beam with a thickness of 30 mm. For ease of fastening, the width of the beam can vary from 60 to 80 mm, this is especially important for the extreme vertical bars.
- The first step is preparing a timber for the manufacture of the frame. The simplest fastening frame elements is a half-tree join.
Half tree connection
To do this, grooves are cut out at the edges of the timber, with a length equal to the width of the timber, and a depth of half the thickness, in this case, 15 mm.
The connection of the beam is carried out using glue and wooden dowels. To begin with, the frame parts are glued together, clamped with clamps. After the glue dries, through holes with a diameter of 10 mm are drilled into them, into which dowels are carefully driven onto the glue.
This figure shows in detail how the frame elements are connected in a “half-tree” way, and where the dowels are driven in.
- Frames can have different designs, but the simplest one consists of a frame assembled from a bar with one or two transverse bandages.
This figure shows the types of trim for panel doors, but they can also be used as structures for the base of a frame door.
- The frame must have a certain rigidity, and all its corners, both external and internal, must be aligned with a square. In addition, it is necessary to check the size of the diagonals - it must be the same.
- If you plan to make a door with glass in a certain place, then this must be provided for in the frame. To install the glass, additional bars are installed inside the main frame, in the form of a frame. This makes the job a little more difficult.
For the door leading to the rest room, moisture resistant MDF sheets can be used for cladding instead of lining. The lining of such a door is mounted in the following sequence, starting from the bottom layer:
- The vapor barrier material is fixed to the frame first, since it is indispensable to protect the insulation in wet conditions.
- Then, an MDF sheet, sawn to its dimensions, is fixed to the frame beam.
- Next, insulation is laid between the frame bars. Here you can use expanded polystyrene, in this case, 30 mm thick, or mineral wool. In any case, the material should be placed as tightly as possible between the frame timber.
- Another one is fixed on top of the insulation vapor barrier layer.
Prices for MDF
Then the whole "pie" is closed with the top sheet M DF. But still, wooden lining is most often used for the bath door.
- After lining the door with clapboard, handles are fixed to the door. These elements are usually made of wood or purchased ready-made.
- After the door is ready, it is hung on the door frame, which is made and installed in the same way as described in the first option, if it is mounted in a log wall.
If the wall is built from a different material, then the box is made from a timber prepared in size. The box should be 30 ÷ 35 mm smaller than the doorway - this will make it possible to expose the box in person and fix it with wedges.
- The exposed box is fixed to the walls through the wedges of the spacers, and the gaps between the wall and the box are filled with mounting foam.
- Then hinges are mounted on the door system, and the door is hung in its place.
- The last step is the installation of platbands, which will close the gaps and give the structure completeness.
Prices for lining
In conclusion, it should be noted that it is very difficult to make any door on your own, without experience in carpentry and knowledge of all the intricacies of calculations and manufacturing. In addition, to make the door look “professional”, you will need special tools to work on it. hand tools and carpentry electrical appliances, which are quite expensive in themselves. It is unprofitable to purchase them only for the sake of making one door - it will be cheaper to order a finished design from an experienced craftsman.
Think about the doors in advance!
What will be the doors in the bathhouse under construction - you need to decide at the stage of primary design. How the project is drawn up in general terms - is considered by example, in a special article of our portal.
Many, tired of the bustle of the city, are trying to find an "outlet" for themselves in a private house or on suburban area and often decide to build a bathhouse. In this case, it often happens that we do not know how to correctly carry out all the stages of its construction and, in particular, how to make a door for a bath with our own hands.
In this article we will tell you how you can make such a design with your own hands, what dimensions it should have and much more.
The specifics of the door in the bath
The bath should have at least 2 doors - the entrance and the one that will lead to the steam room.
The door to the steam room has its own specifics:
- it should not heat up;
- from an increase in humidity and temperature changes should not be deformed.
Whatever you plan to build a bath, do-it-yourself sauna doors, first of all, must reliably retain heat and steam in it, and only after that serve as an interior item for this building. In this regard, bath doors should be wooden and deaf and preferably made according to old Russian technology ().
Advice! If your bath will be heated "on white", then it is recommended to install a door with one leaf in it. If you prefer a smoky bath, then the door in it should be made with two doors.
Dimensions
When making the door to the steam room with your own hands, pay attention to its dimensions.
In order to keep the heat better, it will need to be made several sizes smaller than for a living space:
- its height from the floor should be no more than 170 cm;
- width no more than 70 cm;
- the threshold is 15 cm higher.
In the steam room, it is desirable to install single-leaf structures that open outwards. The gap from the door to the floor should not exceed 5 cm.
materials
For a steam room, it is desirable to make a door from linden, alder or aspen. Can also be used conifers wood, but then you will need to treat their surface so that the resin does not stand out.
Necessary materials for the manufacture of such a design:
- for strapping you will need a timber with dimensions of 65x80 mm, and for the canvas, tongue-and-groove boards made of pine with dimensions of 36 by 120 mm, for sheathing from the inside of the room - lining 12 by 96 mm;
- except for wood, the door to this room can be made from any other material. His choice will primarily depend on the planned interior design our building. IN Lately has become fashionable or models made of heat-resistant plastic. But only this will change the price of the manufactured product.
We make a canvas
The door leaf to the bath is made with a certain sequence.
We will now tell you about how to make a door to the bathhouse with your own hands:
- prepare the edge board and remove the spike with a planer to the level with the body of the board;
- the assembly of the canvas must be carried out from tongue-and-groove boards on a flat surface. You need to start work from the first board using the "thorn in the groove" technique. Next, with a pencil, mark several points from the extreme board to the desired width size and connect them together in a straight line;
- cut along the last board with a circular saw;
- assemble the canvas according to the principle of a spike in a groove, after applying PVA glue;
- after installing the last board, fix support boards with a gap along the long sides of the canvas and press them with wooden wedges until it stops against each other;
- check the quality of your work after the glue dries. If there are gaps, close them with glue and sawdust. Remove any irregularities using a planer and sandpaper;
- using a square, tape measure and ruler, draw the contours of the canvas with a length of 1720 mm and a width of 570 mm, based on the line of adjoining sides in the support bar of the ends and the outer edge of the first board;
- draw along this line with a circular saw, and clean the cut with sandpaper;
- then, around the entire perimeter of the canvas, make a symmetrical veneer with a width of 15 mm and a thickness of 26 mm. You need to use base strips and a router, it is customary to mount them along the side of the door that was processed;
- planks must be installed so that their upper faces are placed strictly horizontally and must be in the same plane;
- the plane of the canvas should be parallel to the upper edges, since they will serve as a support for the router;
- install a milling cutter on the base strips and mill the longitudinal spike in several approaches;
- after processing the entire contour, turn the canvas over and repeat all the steps with one difference, that you will need to control the thickness of the spike with a caliper.
Note! The spike should be slightly larger so that later, when planting, it could be added to the harness.
Assembly
The assembly of the bath door comes down to installing the strapping around the canvas.
For this:
- you will need pre-prepared blanks, they will need to be inserted into the spikes of the web from all sides without interference or with a slight interference. If necessary, we mill a groove or spike;
Note! The gaps between the groove and the spike are not allowed.
- after quality control, you can proceed to finishing stage making a door to the bath with your own hands. To do this, you will need to glue the docking points with PVA glue and fix the harness with self-tapping screws;
- self-tapping screws will need to be cut into the canvas from the side edges of the strapping, while maintaining a step of 200 mm, in such a way that later they do not interfere with installation door hinges. In addition, you will need to fasten the strapping elements in the corners.
The side of the door that will be affected by the steam should be protected with vapor barrier material, on top of which you can then sheathe the structure with thin boards. A design that will not be afraid of moisture can also be obtained from a frame that will need to be sheathed on both sides with special sheets of fiberglass.
The space between them will need to be filled with foam or mineral wool.
Installation
The main factor in installing the door to the steam room is the arrangement of the threshold. Ideally, its height should not exceed 15 cm. As for the structure that will separate the steam room from the washing room, the threshold in this case is not necessary.
Between the floor and the door in the lower part, it is customary to leave a small gap for the passage of cold air into the steam room. The height of such a gap should not be more than 5 cm.
Do-it-yourself entrance door to the bath is mounted using a pigtail, using ridges on logs and grooves in casing to eliminate the possibility of structural deformation during shrinkage of our building. We will make a box for the opening from square or rectangular thick bars. In the opening, it will need to be installed using the ridge method.
In the walls of our building, on the lower horizontally located log, make nests and cut down the ridges. Subsequently, you will insert bars with pre-selected spikes into them. Place a massive log at the bottom of the doorway to use later as a threshold.
If your bath was built of brick, then you should make the door frame more massive. For these purposes, take boards with a thickness of 6 cm and a width of 10 cm.
The depth of the quarters that are selected from the workpiece must correspond to the dimensions of the bath structures. Their average width should not exceed 3 cm. The connection must be made with the help of spikes.
It is necessary to assemble and install the box in such a way that the bath door can open outward. Level the box and fasten it to the wall. When adjusting the structure, if possible, make sure that the box fits as closely as possible to the jambs and the threshold.
Conclusion
Now you know that you can not only build a bath on your own, but also make a door in it so that it can maximize the retention of heat in this room. All you may need to implement your plan is a little patience, attentiveness and a little free time, and at the end of the work you will receive the perfect product that will help you extend the life of the structure you have built several times (
Assembling a door to the bath with your own hands is available to anyone who has at least a little experience in carpentry. The easiest way is to equip the entrance to the bath from a pre-dried and calibrated board, special equipment and assistants are not needed, since the weight of the door leaf is small, and most of the work related to installing the door in the bath can be done independently.
Preparation of material for bath doors
If the door structure needs to be installed in someone else's room, then the first thing to do is to look at the scope of work, assess the place and size of the future entrance to the room, and measure the thickness of the walls. And most importantly, before making a door to the bath, it is extremely important to check the quality of the material from which it is planned to assemble the door leaf and frame. Timber and boards are almost always crooked, but worst of all, if there are already cracks or chips on the surface, such a tree must be disposed of.
The boards prepared by the customer are subjected to additional processing before starting work:
For example, the thickness of a standard magpie board after finishing is reduced to 35 mm, the width of the material becomes 10 mm smaller due to the leveling of the plane. As a result, it turns out that in order to make wooden doors to a bath with dimensions of 180x80 cm with your own hands, you will need at least five boards, 160 mm wide, without taking into account the size of the door frame.
Dimensions and assembly technology of the bath door
Usually, the dimensions of the door to the bath with a box, more precisely, the future opening in the wall for the installation of the loot, are determined by the number of whole boards laid in the door leaf. To do this, take the width of the processed board, multiply by five, and adjust to the more or less acceptable dimensions of the bath door. Further, 2x35 mm is added to the desired width - the thickness of the two sidewalls of the door hatch plus a mounting gap of 10 mm. Similarly, the height of the bath door is considered, and for the lower edge, you will need to add another 5 mm for shrinkage.
In addition, it is necessary to take into account the features of the technology for assembling entrance doors for a bath. The door leaf for entering the bath can be assembled in two ways:
- Cut a spike and a groove at the ends of a standard forty, as is done for a grooved board. In this case, the total width of the web will decrease by 10x5 = 50 mm;
- To mill a groove 15 mm deep at the ends of the prepared and cleaned wooden blank, the joining of two boards is performed on an inset rail-key. In this case, the width of the doors and the dimensions of the opening in the bath wall do not need to be adjusted.
You can make doors for a bath in both ways, there is not much difference, although the doors on the dowels are more flexible and durable. The question of technology, how to make a door to the bath, depends on the wishes of the customer and the availability of woodworking equipment.
For your information! For a novice carpenter, it is easier to make a door to the bathhouse step by step with your own hands using a doweled web connection.
Firstly, keyed bath doors are considered a classic manufacturing option, and secondly, in case of accidental marriage, you can always replace the key and redo the joint.
Tools for building the front door to the bath
It is very important, before you make a door to the bath with your own hands, to really assess your capabilities, namely, the availability of tools and devices for work.
If you have at least an initial carpentry experience, in order to assemble the front door to the bathhouse with your own hands, you will need a minimum set of tools:
- Manual electric milling cutter with a set of end trimming and through cutters;
- A long metal ruler, you can take a two-meter plaster rule or any aluminum bar at least 200 cm long, fairly even and strong;
- Construction level and plumb of a bricklayer;
- Electric grinder, belt or vibration;
- Carpenter's chisel, wooden or metal tamping hammer;
- A set of carpentry clamps for clamping boards, 20-60 mm thick;
- Joiner's glue, you can use PVA-M, at least 7-10 liters will go to one bath door, linen or jute tow.
In addition, to install the door in the bathhouse with your own hands, you will need to make cuts in the wall, so you will need to rent an electric or gasoline chainsaw for at least one day.
Making a door leaf for entering the bath
It takes a professional carpenter one day to make a door for a bathhouse out of wood with his own hands. For amateur builders, this period is about twice as long, but usually they agree with the customer to make one entrance and one door for the steam room for the bath in three days. It will not work faster, because before you install the door in the bath, at least a day must pass for the glue to dry and shrink.
If the customer insists on his size and shape of the door to the bath, then it will be correct and far-sighted, before trying to make a bath door with his own hands, familiarize the future owner with the design, discuss the level of raising the threshold and the method of sealing cracks in the doorway. As a rule, the customer does not object to your option of entering the bathhouse, but it is better to inform him in advance.
Grooving and dowel making
First of all, on the end surface of the boards, it is necessary to cut a groove for installing the connecting key. The two most durable and beautiful boards, selected and prepared for work, are set aside in advance; in these details, the groove will be cut only on one side. These parts will go to the left and right sidewalls of the door leaf.
Groove milling is performed in the following sequence:
- The board is fixed in a horizontal position with clamps on a carpentry workbench. A milling line is applied along the end with a ruler and a pencil;
- A metal ruler or rule is laid and rigidly fixed along the marking line. This will help make the groove and, ultimately, the door leaf of the bath as flat and even as possible;
- The groove is cut with an end mill with a diameter of at least 10 mm, too large a width will weaken the canvas, a small cut will not hold the board, and the whole structure may sink in the doorway of the bath.
The next step is to make mounting dowels; five rails are required to assemble the canvas. fixing material can be cut from the remains of a prepared board for a bath or bought ready-made.
Important! The workpiece for the key is placed on a workbench and ground so as to obtain one thickness along the entire length of the rail. It is very important to achieve the same thickness so that the key does not fall out of the groove at one end of the board and wedge at the other.
The key-rail should enter the grooves of adjacent boards with a slight interference to make it easier to insert it into the groove, sandpaper small chamfers are removed on the edges.
Door leaf assembly
The next step in the manufacture of the door for the bath is the assembly of the door leaf. Initially, the boards are joined on the dowels "dry", without any gluing of the joints. assembled door laid out on a workbench and knocked out wooden mallet for complete seating of the keys in the grooves.
Dry assembly is required to make sure that all parts of the sauna door fit correctly. In addition, the protruding ends of the boards and dowels are cut along the upper and lower edges of the canvas.
If there are no problems, each joint is taken apart in turn, smeared with glue and knocked back. The glued bath door is laid on a workbench and fixed with clamps until the glue joints are completely dry. While the glue has not hardened, the excess glue mass is carefully removed at the joints. This must be done immediately, otherwise in a day the door surface will be covered with indelible dark spots of the adhesive film.
We fill the door with horizontal crossbars
The next day, after the final setting of the glue, it is necessary to make horizontal crossbars. In fact, these are two thick wooden blocks laid horizontally or at a slight slope on the bath door.
Crossbars perform two functions:
- The fabric is pulled together in a horizontal direction;
- The load from the weight of the structure is transferred to the canopies and the door frame at the entrance to the bathhouse.
Hinges for doors to the bathhouse are also placed on the crossbars, which allows you to unload the door leaf and transfer most weight directly on the loot.
The device and method of fastening the crossbars of the bath doors differ significantly from similar parts in conventional doorways used in sheds, garages, warehouses, summer kitchens. Horizontal bars are installed on the bath door, without any fasteners, and the connection is provided by the dovetail locking profile.
The sides of each bar are cut using an electric mill so that an isosceles trapezoid is obtained in the cross section of the crossbar. The same cutter cuts grooves on the canvas of the bath door.
To prevent the door from moving in a horizontal direction, the grooves of each lock in the door leaf are not cut out strictly horizontally, but with their own slight slope. After adjusting the dimensions, the bars are placed in locks, glued and fixed with clamps until completely dry.
The finished, dried assembly must be sanded with an electric grinder, this will remove burrs and make outer surface as flat and smooth as possible. If there is a need for additional finishing, the door to the bath can always be painted or covered with a film.
Features of making do-it-yourself doors for a bath are shown in the video
Making a loot and installing it at the entrance to the bath
After mounting the crossbars, the actual dimensions of the doors to the bath become known. You can cut an opening at the entrance to the bath, but first you need to make a door frame.
For the manufacture of a loot, the same magpie board is used as for the door to the bathhouse. For vertical sidewalls of the loot, two boards 200 mm wide and 60 mm longer than the door leaf are cut. In the same way, two short horizontal boards are cut out for the threshold of the door frame and upper crossbar. We lay out the cut segments along the perimeter of the assembled door leaf and temporarily sew them together at the corners with the remains of the rail and upholstery nails.
Since the bath door should swing open only outward, the canvas will need to be drowned in a hole from the entrance side. To do this, we mark a strip 10 mm deep along the contour of the inner surface of the box, which will need to be cut with a milling cutter or any other available tool.
Further, on the outside of the side racks of the door frame, you will need to cut a groove with which the loot will be held in the doorway of the wooden bath. We connect all the details of the door frame with self-tapping screws. The side posts should be adjacent to the ends of the door leaf with a gap of 1.2-2 mm, in the region of the sill, the gap is increased to 5 mm. We strengthen the box at the corners with temporary slats with spacers, as soon as the loot is in the doorway of the bath, the stuffed slats will be removed.
We put the box and hang the door leaf
The first step is to measure the outer dimensions of the box, they will have to mark the contour of the cut of the doorway at the entrance to the bath. This should be done only by practical measurement, and not by calculation, otherwise there is a possibility of making the cut in the bath wall too large.
The opening for the box should be 6-7 cm less than the width of the finished canvas. When making a cut in the bath wall, the width of the cut should also be taken into account. Initially mark the height of the threshold in the bath, then measure the height of the box, draw the axial and set aside the width of the loot. With the help of a construction plumb line, markings are applied to the bath wall under the cut line.
After an opening has been cut in the bath for the installation of the box and the future door, it is necessary to cut a vertical line of the spike on the wall with a milling cutter or manually with a hammer and chisel. The width and height of the spike must fully correspond to the dimensions of the groove cut on the sides of the loot.
The next step is to assemble the box. The threshold is set first, then the side racks are stuffed onto the spikes, and the upper cross member is attached last. In the upper ceiling part of the box, between the wall and the crossbar, there should be a free space 5-7 mm high, which is clogged with linen or jute fiber and will later be covered with platbands. The gap must be maintained to compensate for the draft of the bath. If the construction of the bath is made of bricks, the gap is simply blown out with mounting foam.
Before knocking down the details of the box, you need to place the finished door leaf in it and align the entire structure horizontally and relative to the facade of the bathhouse, wooden wedges.
Bath door hinges
On last step arranging the entrance perform a hinged door leaf. Before installing the hinges for the doors to the bath, the door leaf is slightly raised in the box with the help of two small wooden wedges. The easiest way to install gate canopies, they are completely located on the outside of the web. The short part is attached to the loot, the opposite side is sewn onto the cross-rails.
If, according to the design conditions of the facade of the bath, it is required to completely hide the elements of the canopies, then screw hinges can be used.
If the entrance room in the bath is well isolated from the dressing room and steam room, then the doors can also be hung on standard butterfly hinges. The main advantage of such canopies is their high strength and reliability; one pair is enough to hang the heaviest door in the bath.
To attach the loops you will need:
- Mark the fastening contours on the loot and on the end of the canvas;
- Cut grooves on both parts with a chisel and fix the canopies with ordinary self-tapping screws.
It remains to hang the canvas on the counterpart of the loop and adjust the clamp so that the door to the bath closes without touching the loot. After installing the platbands, seals, handles and locks, the door to the bathhouse is considered ready.
Conclusion
The front door in the bath is the simplest of all that can be done in bath room beginner carpenter. When planning the design of the entrance to the bath, it would be right to foresee the installation of insulation, sealing rubber bands and comfortable door handle without which beautiful wooden surface will darken very quickly from handprints.
Anyone who has right tool, special skills, and quite a lot of time and desire.
In any bath there are several rooms that perform different functions, so each will need its own door to enclose. There should be at least two doors in the bath room: the entrance door and from the steam room to a special rest room.
There are three types of bath doors:
The main features of bath doors
When creating these doors, two main criteria should be taken into account - high temperature and the level of humidity inside the bathhouse. The first distinguishing feature of such a door is its size, the second is the materials used, and the last is the fittings used.
Bath door size
When making sauna doors, all sizes are determined according to the principle of maximum heat retention at the time of closing and opening the doors. In this regard, all bath doors are smaller in size when compared with conventional ones. The required height of sauna doors is 165-185 cm from the floor itself, and the width is 65-70 cm. It is worth paying attention to the threshold, the height of which should be more than 15 cm. However, such small door sizes are used exclusively for steam rooms.
Materials for the correct manufacture of sauna doors
For bath doors, you can also use glass, And wood. Glass must withstand very high temperatures. However, the best material for bath doors is still wood.
Here, as a rule, apply - linden, larch, aspen, oak.
accessories
Fittings for bath doors should be made of materials with very low thermal conductivity, as well as resistance to high humidity. If you use, for example, hecks and handles made of metal, then you can easily get burned from touching. In this regard, fittings are usually made of wood.
This applies to the heck and handles, but it is advisable to take brass hinges, however, if you could not find similar ones, then the metal hinges should definitely be painted with a special anti-corrosion paint. Since the sauna doors open outwards, it is almost impossible to get burned.
Bath door manufacturing
After determining the type of doors, you can already proceed to special work on creation. For beginners, this process may well seem quite complicated, but this is purely a matter of experience. If you have never made doors before, then for a start you can buy cheap boards and practice on them. Further, this will allow you to make bath doors without problems.
Since the door made of wood is considered the most optimal door for a bath, it is on its example that we will consider the entire process of creating bath doors. Before making doors to the bath, as a rule, you need to make purchases. Of the materials here you can not do without:
- grooved floorboard (width is 50 mm, thickness is 30 mm);
- special pins and screws;
- lining (dimensions - 12x96 mm);
- loop (three pieces);
- strapping timber (dimensions - 60x80 mm).
From the tool here you can not do without:
- manual circular saw;
- hammer and mallet;
- milling cutter with a set of cutters;
- screwdriver;
- clamps;
- level, caliper, depth gauge, tape measure.
Making a door leaf
The manufacture of a door should always begin with the formation of a canvas. To do this, you need to do this:
- It is necessary to take special grooved boards and cut them to the required length.
- Then, a spike must be cut off from one of the boards, after which the surface is jointed on both sides of each board, you need to get an absolutely flat surface. As a rule, it is enough to remove 2 mm to achieve the desired result. Ideally, you should get smooth boards with a thickness of 26 mm.
- You can start assembling the door leaf. First, a rough assembly should be made, a spike of the board is inserted into the groove of the other, while connecting them as tightly as possible. As a result, you can get a canvas that is slightly larger in width than you need. It's not scary. To get a canvas of the required width, it will be necessary to cut off a little from the last and first boards.
- Having measured the desired size, which is 60-70 mm smaller from the width of the entire door, and marking it on the canvas, it is necessary to remove the last and first boards. On circular saw everything superfluous is cut off from them. It is important not to cut off on the last board the side on which the groove is located, but on the first board the side where the tenon is located.
- Next, the boards are assembled into one canvas. To do this, you need to lay out the boards on the surface of the workbench and insert the spike of one board into the special groove of the previous one, having previously smeared the groove inside with ordinary PVA glue. For a good connection, beat each board with a mallet.
- The canvas is left to dry for two to three days. So that during the drying period the canvas does not lead at all, it must be securely fixed on the workbench. To do this, you need to fix two planks of wood on a workbench, between which the door leaf is placed longitudinally. For normal fixation, it is necessary to drive wooden wedges between the door leaf and the bar. A special sheet of chipboard is laid on top of the canvas and pressed against the table with its clamps.
- After drying, you need to check the canvas for minor defects. The cracks are sealed with a special mixture of sawdust and glue, and all irregularities are smoothed out with an ordinary planer.
We make fittings and door trim
While the canvas dries up, you can start creating bolts and handles, as well as a special trim for the door:
- In the previously obtained blanks of the bars, it is necessary to select a groove. To do this, you first need to select a deep and narrow groove using an end mill and a router. Its width is approximately 26 mm, depth is 25 mm. After that, a wide, but shallow groove should be chosen over it (depth is 10 mm and width is 50 mm). A similar stepped groove in the strapping is needed for the canvas, which was sheathed with clapboard. The lining should fit into the wide one, and all the tongue-and-groove boards will fit into the deep one.
- On horizontal bars strapping by means of a cutter, a stepped spike is made that corresponds to the groove. At the end, you need to assemble the strapping box and check the correctness of the corners with a square. If necessary, grind the groove with a milling cutter to obtain absolutely right angles.
- To make bolts and handles, it is necessary to use trimming boards and bars or pre-purchased blanks.
Sheathing clapboard, door assembly
Now it remains only to sheathe the canvas with clapboard, assemble the wooden bath doors together and make a door frame. To do this, you need to do this:
After all this, you can start creating the door frame. To do this, we use bars with dimensions of 100x100 mm. To create boxes from them, it is quite enough to cut them to a certain length and select quarters with a cutter. It is important that the depth of such a quarter is approximately 5 mm larger. This is extremely important, because in the bath, under the influence of constant humidity, the wooden door will swell and can easily jam. In addition, you need to remember that the vertical top bar will be slightly smaller than the width of the box, and the threshold should be at least 10-15 cm in height. slats and sill cut spikes. Before installing the door frame, you need to assemble it and check with a square that all angles are correct. If necessary, it is necessary to grind the grooves, treat with a special anti-rotting agent and proceed with the installation of the door in place.
How easy it is to install bath doors
When the doors are completely ready, you can make their installation. Installation begins with making special grooves in the doorway. We make them approximately 10 mm larger than the width of the door frame, this is necessary so that during installation you can easily correct the location of your doors vertically, open it with wedges. Then the box is installed in the grooves. It is important not to confuse exactly where the doors will open.
Important! It should be recalled that the doors in the bath should swing open outwards.
Then you need to get a horizontal upper beam and support it with vertical posts. After that, you need to put a threshold on the bottom. Using the level, we monitor the absolutely vertical position of the box. Once well aligned vertically, wedges should be driven into all gaps between the box and the wall, this will fix the box in place. We fix the door frame to the wall with dowels, pre-drilling special holes for them. When the box is well fixed, you can proceed with the installation of hinges for the door leaf. The very first hinge should be at a height of about 25 cm from the top of the door, the second - 50 cm, and the third - 25 cm from the bottom edge. This will help keep your doors from tilting, especially if your canvas is very heavy. Now you need to hang the door leaf, and fill the felt roller around the entire perimeter of the box and close up all the cracks.
Making a bath door is a rather difficult task, and it must be approached with responsibility. True, the result is able to exceed all the wildest expectations.
