Do-it-yourself wooden bath doors. How to make bath doors: making canvas and boxes, insulating and installing with your own hands. Types of bath doors: pros and cons

03.09.2016 24252

In order to go to the bath with your own hands, you need to purchase material, prepare tools, remember carpentry skills. Usually there are at least two doors in it - the entrance and the steam room - the main room for which the bath is being built. Here are created temperature conditions, useful for people, but extreme for materials, therefore, these features are taken into account in the manufacture of doors.

What to do? Choosing a material

The entrance structures of the dressing room or washing room can be made of any material,do-it-yourself steam room doorshould be made of wood. Natural material will be able to endure all temperature fluctuations without emitting harmful substances(like plastic) without heating up to an unbearable degree (like iron). Hardwoods (oak, aspen, alder, linden) are recommended by craftsmen for the manufacture of bath items and accessories - they contain less resin that evaporates when heated, which you have to breathe. Softwood (pine, spruce, cedar) is also used, but you have to put up with a pungent odor and resinous "tears" on the surface. Despite the rigidity and difficulty of processing, many bath log cabins are made from conifers.

Aspen, alder - soft materials with beautiful texture. A feature of linden is the release of phytoncides when heated, which have healing properties. Oak has all the excellent qualities quality wood including the high cost. The door to the steam room can be made from any type of wood:

• oak is a hard tree of valuable breed, but prone to cracking;
• larch - has a natural antiseptic, is not subject to rotting and bug attacks;
• linden - emits phytoncides, smells good, but darkens during operation and quickly rots;
• aspen - the most cheap material, costs 40% less than linden, does not crack when dried;
• pine is a durable breed that emits odorous resins;
• spruce - less resinous, but absorbs a lot of moisture, requires drying. Retains original color for a long time.

From pine and aspen, considering these species suitable for such purposes. Now exotic types of wood have appeared - abashi (African oak), Canadian cedar.

Advice. Whatever type of wood the door for the steam room is made of, it is important to provide for the absence of knots in the canvas. Exposure to high temperatures, water and steam will cause them to fall out and form holes.

We stock up on tools and materials

To make a bath door with your own hands, use a standard carpentry tool kit:

• saw (jigsaw, hacksaw);
• milling cutter;
• hammer;
• chisel;
• plane;
• screwdriver, screwdriver, drill;
• self-tapping screws;
• wooden dowels.

The bath will require the following materials:

• timber 50 * 50 mm - for pigtails;
• timber of the selected wood species 60 * 80 mm of sufficient footage - for the manufacture of the box;
• ordinary board 50 * 30 mm - for the door leaf, the beam for tying the door leaf is 5 mm thicker than that of the board;
• loops.

The amount and nature of the material depends on the design of the door. Usually these are deaf single-leaf doors, one or two-frame, standard size which:

• width - 0.7–0.8 m;
• height - 1.7 m;
• threshold height - 0.15–0.3 m.

Fittings and fasteners are selected from of stainless steel, the handle is made of wood, since the metal one is very hot, and the plastic one emits harmful fumes when heated. Locking elements must open without problems from the inside, without jamming - for example, latches.

Important. The threshold to the bath (and steam room) is provided with a height of at least 15 cm in order to avoid chilling - heat leaving the gap under the door.

Getting Started

The door structure consists of two parts - a box and a leaf. First you have to do it yourself door frame, then the canvas and connect them with loops. The door leaf is a one- or two-layer connection of boards, framed with or without strapping. Box - a frame made up of bars and placed in the doorway. The whole process for the manufacture and installation of the door involves four stages:

1. preparation of the opening, the creation of a pigtail;
2. box making;
3. door leaf (with or without a frame);
4. construction installation.

Stage 1. Preparation of the opening. Adjust the dimensions of the opening in terms of the width and height of the door. In the middle of the logs of the log house, grooves of 50 * 50 mm are vertically selected from both sides - under the bars, pigtails with the same dimensions, to which the box is then attached.

Stage 2. Creating a box. You can make a box for 50 mm thick bars - two vertical racks and two horizontal crossbars. Spikes are cut out at the ends of the crossbars, and grooves are made in the racks - the butt joint is not used, since it is not strong enough. The assembled box is installed in the opening, fixed to the pigtail with wooden wedges, the verticality of the structure is controlled by the level. From the outside of the box along the perimeter, quarters are selected - a seat for the door leaf. For loops, a gap of 2-3 mm is chosen.

Stage 3. Making the door leaf. The appearance of the door in the bath largely depends on the canvas. It can be:

• from boards;
• from boards with strapping;
• paneled.

The steam room can be the simplest - from boards without a frame, "antique":

1. They mark and measure the boards (preferably floor boards), smooth the surface with a planer.
2. by any of three methods: smooth ends with or without glue, tongue and groove or quarters selected along the edge one on top of the other. You can choose grooves, spikes or a quarter along the edge yourself using a milling cutter, or purchase ready-made tongue-and-groove boards.
3. Fix the connection with transverse and diagonal bars (braces) from the outside. The obvious way is to screw the crossbars with self-tapping screws. Masters make a selection-depression on the surface under the transverse and diagonal bars, using a milling cutter or a hacksaw with a chisel. Experienced carpenters make this recess special kind"dovetail".
4. They screw the hinges (gate samples are appropriate in this design), hang them, adjust them so that the sash fits snugly, there are no distortions.

The door to the steam room with your own hands can be with a strapping - a beam that is attached around the perimeter of the canvas. Previously, in the strapping, grooves for the web are selected. Additionally, the groove connection is reinforced with self-tapping screws. The dimensions of the canvas of such a model are reduced by the size of the strapping beam, given that the entire door must fit tightly into the box without large gaps. The step by step procedure is as follows:

1. Vertical bars of the strapping frame are marked and cut along the length of the box.
2. Grooves are made with their inside- this will include the web and spikes of the horizontal upper and lower strapping bars.
3. The finished canvas is adjusted in size - its length, in total with the width of the upper and lower strapping bars, should be equal to the length of the vertical boards.
4. In the transverse bars at the ends, spikes are made with the calculation of their entry into the grooves of the vertical parts.
5. The whole structure is assembled, the corners are aligned (strictly 90 ̊). The strapping connections are fixed with wooden dowels or self-tapping screws.

Experienced craftsmen are able to make a door to the bath with their own hands of a complicated design - paneled, with numerous panel inserts in a frame consisting of several transverse and longitudinal boards. The connection principles are the same - “thorn-groove”, the inserts enter the grooves, without the use of glue or self-tapping screws. Such a door is both strong and provides the mobility of the elements, which allows to avoid cracking of wood during expansion and contraction of the structure.

Stage 3. Installation. After the box and the door leaf are ready, it remains to install the door in the bath, observing several conditions:

• The door frame is mounted to the pigtail or in a specially made opening groove, which should be 1-1.5 cm wider - firstly, for free manipulations to level the structure, and secondly, taking into account further shrinkage and movement of the timber and the door.
• need to follow the rules fire safety: The door must open outwards. To do this, a selection of a quarter under the canvas is made from the outside.
• When hanging the canvas, in order to avoid distortions, it is recommended to use three pairs of loops: top, bottom and in the middle. The distance from the corner point of the sash to the hinges is 20–25 cm.

Entrance doors for a bath made of metal: installation features

To put the door in the bath, it is not necessary to make the entire input structure with your own hands. Enough to search suitable option on the market and independently install. Choose plastic or metal.

Whether it is advisable to put an iron door in the bathhouse, the owner decides: such a model protects the room more reliably than others, but it is heavier, it rusts under the influence of moisture. Therefore, a metal door to the bath with an anti-corrosion powder coating is preferable, although its price is higher.

In addition, the rigid metal structure does not shrink like the surrounding frame. When moving, the frame can hang on the door, the distortion of which by one millimeter leads to its blocking. The installation of an iron door in the bathhouse is carried out taking into account this fact - be sure to make a pigtail casing:

1. Grooves are made in the opening on both sides, which are equipped with a special wooden pigtail.
2. Casing bars are rigidly attached only to the lower logs, serving as a kind of guide for the moving upper logs.
3. A wooden box is attached to the pigtail, and to it, in turn, is mounted Iron door to the bath.
4. A seam of 2-4 cm is left on top of the box for possible shrinkage of the log house. The seam is foamed, insulated, hidden under the trim.

Given the heavy weight of the door, the bars for the pigtail and the box should be thick enough.

An installation built of brick or foam blocks does not differ from similar work in residential premises. It is recommended to insulate the metal structure by isolating the fittings - in winter, the handle with the lock can freeze.

To make and install a door to the bathhouse with your own hands is not an easy, but feasible type of work that brings satisfaction, allows you to save money and acquire useful carpentry skills.

A chic bathhouse, made by hand from the floorboard to the handle on the door - isn't it a matter of pride? After all, how interesting it is to understand the little things, learn about new technologies and bring every detail to perfection! There are, of course, stages in the work and quite complex ones - such as, for example, the manufacture, installation of doors to the bathhouse and its insulation. Just a couple of mistakes - and an unpleasant draft will become ubiquitous. Or even worse - frost forms on the door in a matter of seconds after kindling ...

All of the above can be easily avoided if you know how to make a door to the bath - cut out the door frame, insulate it, install it correctly. And, most importantly, it is compliance with the basic requirements:

• High quality thermal insulation.
• Minimal heat loss during door opening.
• Possibility in case of fire to quickly and easily open the door.

Many firms today sell a special Entrance door in the bath - but at an exorbitant price. But it can be done quickly, easily and at minimal cost.

So, how to make a door for a bath - we deal with the site portal instead

From "grandfather" schemes to modern ideas

So, it is advisable to make the height of the entrance bath door no more than 160-170 cm, so that precious heat does not go out into the street. The optimal distance between the jambs is 60-70 cm, and the width of the door is made in such a size that will prevent heat leakage as much as possible. It is advisable to make the doors to the bathhouse with your own hands single-leaf - so that they open outward.

In total, two doors are made in the bath - one at the entrance to the bath, the second - to the steam room. But it happens that the dressing room is also a washing room, especially when the bath, due to the limited budget, was built quite miniature. By the way, if glass is needed in the door, then you can take it only special - tempered. Further, the door itself should not turn out to be too voluminous or massive - its the main task is to insulate, not to protect something of value from thieves. Yes, it will not be difficult to break one from the outside - but even in the event of a fire, vacationers themselves can easily demolish it. And it is hard to imagine what it would be like if a person choking on smoke tried to open the jammed door to the bathhouse, which was made using the latest technology with maximum protection.

The ideal material for making a sauna door is wood. It was from it that everything was always made in the old Russian baths - because it perfectly withstands all changes in air humidity and its temperature. The handle for the door to the bath can also be made exclusively from wood - otherwise you can get badly burned. And, by the way, plastic to wood in this case is not the best alternative. And here inner surface it is desirable to treat the doors with antiseptics - the same as for the walls of the bath. But only not drying oil and not varnish - all of them will release toxic substances into the hot and humid air that those who take bath procedures at that moment breathe.

The most proven version of the do-it-yourself bath door is tightly knocked down lime or aspen boards, always in one layer. As soon as the base is ready, the door needs to be insulated - this is important. Moreover, the insulation should be solid - from cotton wool, tow, polystyrene foam, felt and mineral wool. Outside, it will be upholstered with boards or dermantine, on extreme case- simple plywood. But in no case should the bath door heat up or deform from moist and hot air.

Step by step instructions for making a wooden door

An amazing fact: many bathhouse attendants notice that the sauna doors they have made with their own hands have served faithfully for many years, and there is not a trace of deformation on them, but just expensive works of art purchased from firms for a lot of money with a quality guarantee “especially for Russian baths "begin to lose their appearance in the second year. And all because when something is done for oneself, it is always done according to technology, without saving material and certainly without any hack work. But no one will answer for the conscientiousness of the workers in the basement of some firm. And in the end it turns out that a beautiful door, pleasantly smelling of wood, the next year after shrinkage begins to “please” with sickly cracks and loss of shape.

So, the most optimal dimensions for a do-it-yourself bath door are 1.8 m x 0.7 m. good wood for these purposes, these are alder, aspen and linden. If only conifers are available, then they must be processed so that resin does not stand out later.

To make one, follow the suggested instructions:

• Step 1. Planed boards are being prepared good quality, 5 cm thick. These can be sheet pile boards from the store, or home-made, but with the selected tongue.
• Step 2. The boards are laid out in a row and aligned. It is most rational to do their padding with PVA sizing.
• Step 3. As soon as the canvas from the boards dries, marks can be applied to the groove samples. By the way, the grooves themselves need to be made in the form of a truncated cone. Their optimal depth is half or a quarter of the board, the base of the groove is 5 cm in diameter, the upper part is 35 mm.
• Step 4. Now you need to select the grooves - according to the marks. A reward saw will help with this. With it, you need to make two cuts - at an angle of 45˚, a quarter or half a board deep. And so that the angle of cut is the same everywhere, a bar is attached near the groove - planed at the same angle.
• Step 5. Between the cuts, wood is removed with a chisel and dowels are placed - these are bars 5 cm thick. However, it is possible and thicker - the doors will only get better from this.
• Step 6. The door is assembled on the keys, and everything is checked for geometry and density. Why it will be possible to remove the keys and eliminate all the shortcomings.
• Step 7. The keys are punched into the grooves - dry or with glue, and their ends are cut into a cone.

How dense and reliable will be the landing of boards and dowels on the glue - so long will the door for the bath, made by hand, serve.

We install the door in the log house - all the details of the process

But this is just a door leaf. And it still needs to be installed in a log house. And here there are subtleties.

So, if the door is placed incorrectly, then with each use of the bath it will expand by 1 mm and gain moisture. And this is both a fungus and its destruction. That is why at one time frame structures with panels began to be actively used - so the door swells only along two vertical beams, and the panels are inserted into the groove itself with a gap of 4 mm - this allows them to "walk" regardless of the entire structure. Important point: you can install the door only when the log cabin of the bath has already sat down - this is at least 6-8 months after its collection. Otherwise, the geometry of the door will be hopelessly broken - there will be distortions and even serious cracks.

You can use this method, but today it is most often done in a different way: the door is made with a surfacing on the box on special screw-in hinges - this makes a feigned gap of 5 mm per side, although it is completely invisible from either the back or the front side. And any sealant is easily squeezed into this overlay.

How are these loops different from the usual ones? It's simple: the card ones are simply hammered into the entire thickness of the canvas, and after installation they cannot be adjusted - except perhaps by lining the washers. But screw-in hinges are used differently: the canvas is overtaken around the perimeter, a quarter of the protruding part 18x16 is cut out on it, and a porch on the canvas without a box is obtained. At the same time, the screw loop is screwed with the leg into this quarter, and the second into the box. That's the whole technology - if at all times the masters made the doors for the bath with one hammer, what can we say for today!

Here is how the door to the bath is installed:

• Stage 1. Dimensions are determined. For example, the canvas was made 80 mm thick, which means the width at the racks of the box is 120 mm, and their thickness is 50 mm. For all this, you will need blanks for feigned and looped vertical rack and two horizontal crossbars of the same dimensions and a section of exactly 5x8 cm.
• Stage 2. Two bars of 1.87 meters are made, and horizontal ones - 5-8 cm long in the amount of 2 pieces. In these blanks, quarters for the canvas are selected - 2x8 cm in size. To do this, you can use a chisel or a regular manual frezer. Moreover, the selected quarter on all blanks should be in the same plane - parallel to the longitudinal edges of the blanks. Then there will be no cracks - this is verified.
• Stage 3. On the hinge stand, the contours of the hinge flaps are drawn and milled for them seats- just the thickness of the hinge leaf. After that, long blanks are placed on a flat table, and quarters are placed on them.
• Stage 4. From the side of the hinges, a gap of 2-3 mm is made with wooden wedges, for the rest - 5 mm, only in this way the future door will open freely.
• Stage 5. Horizontal workpieces are applied and their length is measured in accordance with the distance between the edges of long workpieces, and cut off with a hacksaw according to the mark.
• Stage 6. Quarters are made in the corners and all elements of the door frame are docked between the special. For this, not yet assembled box the canvas is laid, the loops are inserted into their places and a gap is given with wedges along the entire contour. Angles are checked - they should all be 90˚.
• Stage 7. Produced final assembly with fixed hinges, gaps are set and the box is fastened with self-tapping screws - 2 pcs. for each joint. And so that cracks do not appear at the joints over time, holes should be drilled 0.5 mm larger than the large diameter self-tapping screw, while in the quarter that is fastened - 2 mm less. That's the whole secret.

It remains only to check the door - if it opens freely and completely, and closes without any gaps - everything was done correctly.

A self-built and equipped bathhouse is the dream of many lovers of taking a steam bath and improving their body. Bath building - hard work, in which you need to take into account many nuances and trifles.

Even such a seemingly simple design - the front door, must be properly manufactured and installed. Any minor flaws in the manufacture and installation of the door can lead to a number of problems: drafts, low thermal insulation, distortion or deformation.

1. Door leaf manufacturing.
2. Door insulation.
3. Door frame installation.
4. Mounting the door to the door frame.

Reliable and quality door the bath has a number of requirements, including:

• good thermal insulation;
• convenient fixing system, which minimizes heat loss when the door is opened;
• ease of opening and closing the structure, which is very important for quick evacuation from the bathhouse;
• strength, durability and reliability;
• resistance to changes in temperature and humidity conditions.

Types of doors to the bath

Wooden structures. The tree is the most best material for the arrangement of the bath. Environmental friendliness, ease of processing, affordable cost - all these advantages distinguish wood from a variety of materials.

Metal

If funds allow, you can install metal door to the bath. The door differs in durability, reliability and durability. But as a rule, metal constructions not popular in the construction of baths.

Glass

All-glass canvases are used in the construction of baths and saunas, which are located inside the house or cottage. Glass must be tempered or triplex. For installation of the structure requires special fittings.

MDF, chipboard, plywood

These materials can be used to make doors to the bath. But, it is worth knowing that the plates easily gain moisture, deform over time and lose their original appearance.

The dimensions of the door to the bath are always smaller than the dimensions of the standard doorways. A small door is needed to minimize heat loss in the dressing room, this is especially true in the cold season. Therefore, the recommended door height should be 170 cm, width - 70 cm. The door should open outward. This will not only save space in the dressing room, but also reduce heat loss in the room at the entrance and exit.

For the construction of the door, you can use linden, pine or birch wood. It is important that the material is well dried and, after acquisition, rests for several days in the room where the structure will be manufactured.

Materials for the manufacture of the door to the bath

Important: the canvas of the connected boards in length and width should be 7 cm less than planned. This distance must be left for fastening the strapping from the timber.

The boards are cut to the desired length - 163 cm. A protruding spike is cut off at the first board, a smooth end should be obtained. Then you can start assembling the canvas. It is advisable to carry out a test assembly beforehand to make sure that all wood elements are free of defects.

Next is the main assembly. White glue is poured into each groove, which will increase the strength of the web. It is possible that the width of the canvas will be more than necessary. In this case, the last board is cut in length to right size and attached to the canvas. When assembling the canvas, it is advisable to knock each board with a hammer, this is necessary for better shrinkage in the groove.

The finished fabric is placed on flat surface. It is desirable to compress the canvas on the sides and top, recreating the effect of the press. This will improve the connection of the boards. You can use clamps to fix the canvas on the table top of the workbench. The door should remain in this position for several days.

Then the surface of the canvas must be processed with a planer. It is recommended to shoot no more than 2 mm. It is advisable to putty all the opened cracks and gaps in order to avoid drafts in the dressing room.

Strap fastening. The connected boards are required to be tied with timber at the ends. The timber on the screws is attached to the boards. At the corners of the canvas, it is not desirable to carry out the butt joint of the strapping. The best connection is a spike. Also, using a beam across the boards of the canvas on the outside, it is recommended to make additional stiffeners.

The door is almost ready. It remains to process the wood with a special compound that will protect the boards from decay and bugs.

The last stage is the insulation of the structure. For these purposes, you can use isolon, mineral wool. It is important that the thickness of the insulation is not more than 1-2 cm, otherwise the door will turn out to be too bulky. The insulation for self-tapping screws is attached to the outer side of the canvas, between the stiffeners from the timber.

On top, you can stuff leatherette fabric, which is a good protection against moisture and drafts. The inside of the door can be trimmed with a clapboard made of wood. The thickness of the material should not be more than 7-8 mm.

Installing a wooden door to the bath

The door must be attached to the door frame. Before installing the door frame in the side and top opening, it is required to cut grooves. The dimensions of the recesses should be half a centimeter larger than the width of the door frame timber. The stock is intended to correct the deformation of the door leaf after installation.

For the door frame, a timber with a cross section of 6 by 15 cm is used. It is important to select the material so that the thickness of the door leaf is 5-7 cm less than the width of the door frame pillars. the door leaf will rest. This groove also protects the dressing room from drafts. It is important not to confuse the location of the groove, the recess should be on the outside of the door leaf, since the door swings outward.

After attaching to the canvas, it is advisable to clean the beam with sandpaper over the entire surface, especially after sawing out the groove. It is required to remove all visual chips and wood defects.

At the corners of the rack and the upper lintel of the door frame is connected into a "thorn". The entire structure of the door frame is leveled. There should be no distortion. The box is fixed to the doorway with long anchors. After installation, it is required to check the installation of the racks and the upper jumper with the help of a level. The threshold is installed last.

Video - Installing a wooden door to the bath

Hardware installation

After the door leaf and frame are ready, you can proceed to fixing the fittings. For a heavy and insulated door, it is best to use 3 sets of hinges. The first set is fixed at a distance of 20 cm from the floor, the second - at a height of 50 cm from the floor, upper set- 140 cm from the floor. An uneven distribution of the hinges will prevent the structure from skewing, especially if the door is heavy.

Also, do not forget about the handles and the lock. Wooden carved handles can become a real decoration of the door leaf. In addition, they will not stand out from the general style of the design of the bath.

After fixing the fittings, the door leaf is hung on the box. It is important that the door opens and closes freely. If the ends of the door leaf cling to the beam of the box, then over time the situation can only worsen: the wood will swell and the door will become even harder to open.

There are two ways to correct the defect: by expanding the groove on the racks of the box and by hanging the loops. It is possible that incorrectly attached fittings caused the door leaf to skew in the frame.

All gaps between the opening and the door frame must be filled with felt or foam. In order to hide defects, the box is upholstered around the perimeter with planks or specially purchased platbands.

A warm, reliable and beautiful door to the bath is ready. If all installation and carpentry work is carried out correctly, the structure will serve for many years.

Glass doors are a common element in the design of the bath. Glass perfectly withstands all changes in humidity and temperature, it is easy to care for it. Modern views glass is not only impact-resistant, but also absolutely safe in case of damage. A special film prevents the web from dividing into sharp fragments.

A glass door is most often installed in the bathhouse itself - between the steam room and the washing room or between the washing room and the locker room.

It is almost impossible to make a glass door design with your own hands. That is why the glass sheet, the door frame in size and the necessary fittings are ordered in specialized stores.

Attaching the box to the doorway is not difficult. Before mounting the box, it is recommended to remove the glass sheet. To do this, on the hinges, you need to unscrew a few screws with a hexagon. Then the threshold is removed from the box. side racks and top bar are installed in the opening, it is desirable to check their location using a level. There should be no distortion.

Further, with the help of anchors, the box around the perimeter is attached to the opening. Holes with recessed caps are closed with special plugs. Then the geometry of the fixed box needs to be checked again with a level, if everything is in order, you can hang the glass door leaf.

The handle is attached last. Do not use metal structures - they get very hot when high temperatures and may cause burns. It is best to equip the door with wooden or plastic fittings.

Video - Installation of an all-glass door to the bath

The bath door that closes the entrance to the steam room works in difficult conditions. Therefore, with her self-manufacturing and installation must be observed whole line requirements, otherwise the service life will be short.

Features of the device of bath doors

To ensure appropriate temperature regime, at least two doors are installed in the bath:

If the layout of the bath provides for premises for another purpose (rest room, bathroom, washing room), then the number of doors increases accordingly.

Doors inside the bath different rooms it is better to make from wood to keep warm in winter

TO outer door there are no special requirements if she is not the only one in the bath. It can be made from any material, it is well insulated and the tightness of the door leaf to the frame is ensured.

The door to the bath can be completely wooden or metal, but sheathed with wood

The door to the steam room

Requirements for the door to the steam room:

• if the bath is Russian, then tightness is ensured, if the sauna is a 1–2 cm gap is left below for ventilation. If there are gaps in the Russian bath, the steam escapes from the steam room, the full acceptance of the procedure becomes impossible. In a sauna without a gap under the door, the distribution of steam is uneven;
• the door leaf should not be deformed from high temperatures, significant temperature fluctuations and high humidity;
• materials that do not burn on contact are used: wood and glass. Plastic cannot be used - with a sharp increase in temperature, harmful substances are released from it;
• the door should open easily outward and be without locks. Sometimes installed simple latches- ball, roller or magnetic.

But roller and ball latches in conditions of high temperature and high humidity begin to seize, so it is better to give preference to magnetic ones.

The door to the steam room can be made of sheet refractory glass

In the old days, they tried to reduce the opening leading to the steam room in order to reduce heat leakage. The door was set very low: about 1.5 m in height. Nowadays, good thermal insulation materials, so the door can be made in a regular size, taking into account the following factors:

The width of the door can be any - from 60 to 80 cm.

materials

Inside the bath, only wooden and glass doors are used, and metal and plastic doors are also used for entry.

At the entrance to the bath, you can put a door made of plastic and double-glazed windows to provide the dressing room with additional natural light.

Glass

The glass door looks impressive, especially if a drawing is made on its surface, but it is impossible to make it at home: this requires strained glass thickness from 8 mm.

In a bath door made of solid glass, frosted or tinted glass is usually used.

The only thing you can do with your own hands is to install the finished door.

At the entrance to the sauna, you can install glass door with magnetic lock

Factory-made glass doors are equipped with silicone seals to ensure tightness when closing. The door frame is made of aluminum profile.

Safer and more reliable when used in a steam room, a glass door inserted into a wooden frame

Tree

You can make a bath door completely on your own in a home workshop only from wood: the material is available and easy to process. You should choose those wood species that are most resistant to decay and absorb water least of all. These are oak, ash, larch, pine and spruce.

Resin coniferous trees does not cause trouble - it is released in small quantities and is easily removed.

By using coniferous wood, in the future you will not have to be afraid of the curvature of the door

For the manufacture of doors, you can use different lumber.

Thick tongue-and-groove boards

The easiest way is to make a door from tongue-and-groove boards: they are easily assembled into a shield, along the perimeter of which a timber strap is made.

The canvas, assembled from tongue-and-groove boards, is reinforced with crossbars, then the surface is processed

To such a bath door, crossbars are usually attached - dowels that prevent deformation of the canvas.

Two crossbars are cut and slightly recessed into the door leaf, then glued

Also, to strengthen the structure, fastening boards are nailed diagonally.

There can be several fastening diagonal boards: they are laid out in a pattern throughout door leaf

For a Russian bath with wet steam, a massive door is best suited.

clapboard

It is applied in two cases:

1. For the manufacture of a frame door - the frame is assembled from bars, and the lining is used as a skin. The cavity of such a door is filled with a heat insulator, so it turns out to be very warm.

   The door frame is filled with insulation and sheathed on both sides with clapboard

2. For decorative paneling of doors made of low-grade wood. This makes it possible to reduce the cost of door production: the canvas is assembled from boards of cheap wood, and resistance to temperature and humidity is provided by clapboard lining, for example, from oak.

   The clapboarded door ennobles appearance baths

Better install frame door in a sauna where the humidity is relatively low (dry steam). In a Russian bath, even despite the vapor barrier, moisture can penetrate into the insulation (mineral wool is usually used).

Curly inserts

Doors assembled from such elements are called panel doors. But panel doors:

• quite difficult to manufacture;
• are more likely to deform with temperature changes.

Therefore, they should be taken on only if there is sufficient experience in carpentry, and installed at the entrance to the bathhouse or rest room, but not to the steam room.

The paneled door is beautiful, but difficult to do with your own hands

Video: the secret of assembling a paneled door for a bath

Necessary tools, material and accessories

Consider the manufacture of a wooden bath door measuring 2000x800 mm. To do this, you will need to purchase:

• grooved board with a section of 200x30 mm;
• bars with a section of 30x20 mm (to reinforce the canvas);
• bars with a section of 30x30 mm (for strapping);
• beam with a section of 110x60 mm (for a door frame);
• feigned straps;
• platbands.

Tools

In the process of making the door you will need:

Accessories

You will also need basic components:

Door manufacturing

The manufacturing process consists of the following steps:

1. Cut the grooved board into blanks desired length. Since the length of the canvas is 2000 mm, and the strapping around the perimeter is carried out with a bar 30 mm wide, the length of the blanks is calculated by the formula: 2000 - 2x30 = 1940 mm.

   You can also arrange the boards in horizontal rows rather than vertical ones, then you don’t have to cut them along the edge.

2. Treat all blanks with an antiseptic.
3. From one board, cut with an electric jigsaw along the edge of 60 mm to fit the shield to the required width (800 mm). Therefore, it should be reduced by the thickness of the side bars: 800 - 2x30 = 740 mm.
4. If the door leaf is assembled from a whole number of boards (narrower), then the spike must be cut off from the last of them so that the end is even, without a protrusion.
5. Assemble a shield from the boards, but so far without glue - make sure all sizes are correct.
6. The beam, prepared for the role of the strapping, is cut into blanks: two 2000 mm long and two 740 mm long.
7. Lubricate all the grooves of the boards with white glue and dock. Tap with a mallet to make a tight connection.

   For gluing the shield from the boards, only high-quality furniture glue is taken, which does not turn yellow and does not emit harmful chemical fumes into the air

8. Fix the shield at the corners with clamps. Let the glue dry for a few days.
9. Plane the canvas with a planer: set it up for fine processing to simply smooth the surface.

   Using a planer, the surfaces of the assembled shield are given the necessary smoothness.

10. Screw the strapping to the ends of the shield with self-tapping screws. With a bar width of 30 mm, self-tapping screws 50–60 mm are suitable. It is better to connect the bars between each other with grooves.

    Corner connection of bars with grooves is more reliable, but requires skill in the manufacture of such fasteners

11. Attach two crossbars to the outer side of the canvas from above and below, which will give rigidity to the door. They can be screwed onto self-tapping screws or cut into the body of the shield in the form of dowels.
    

    Pre-assembly of the prepared door elements is carried out without the use of glue

12. Screw the hinges so that the door opens outward, put the handles.
13. Treat the inner side with an antiseptic, and the outer side can be coated with a transparent varnish.
    

    Impregnation of a wooden door with an antiseptic helps protect wood from rotting in wet conditions

14. Assemble a box from a bar with a section of 110x60 mm. In depth, it should exceed the thickness of the door by 60–70 mm and be perfectly rectangular. Choose the dimensions so that there is a gap of 4 mm between the frame and the door - in the calculation that the wood will swell from moisture.
15. Install the box in the opening and equip it with a rebate: either select a groove along the edge with a milling cutter, or nail the rebate strips (expanders). Place platbands.
    

    Installing the door frame in the opening requires special accuracy, because the functioning of the door will depend on it.

16. Hang the door and check its free movement.
17. After eliminating the defects, screw the box to the wall with anchor bolts, drilling holes through the bars.
18. Close the gap between the box and the wall mounting foam or clog with rags, since polyurethane foam releases harmful substances under the influence of high temperature.
19. Install platbands.

    The installation of platbands completes the installation and shapes the appearance of the sauna door

20. Screw parts of the magnetic latch to the door and frame.

Installation of a sauna door in a log wall

If the bath is made in a log house, then it is important to learn about the features of installing a door into the wall of such a structure. Two things must be taken into account:

1. Install the door six months after completion of construction. Shrinkage of a log house is an unpredictable process, so the size of the opening should exceed the parameters of the door by 100 mm in each direction.
2. After that, the walls of the opening must be strengthened by connecting the ends of the logs on each side with an additional element.

The reinforcement of the opening is performed as follows:

• at the ends of the wall on each side of the opening, a groove 50 mm wide and 30 mm deep is selected with a milling cutter to the full height;
• a beam with a section of 50x60 mm is laid in the groove so that it is not clamped by the walls, but moves freely up and down;

  To prevent the weakening of the bonds between the logs in the opening, their ends must be fastened together

• in the door frame on the sides, a groove 50 mm wide is cut with a milling cutter, with which it is put on a timber installed in the logs.

  It is necessary to mount the door frame in a log bath on an additional beam built into the opening

Video: how to cut a hole in a log wall (part 1)

Video: how to cut a groove and install a door frame (part 2)

Bath door insulation

The insulation is attached to the outside of the door leaf, between the crossbars. The thickness of the material should be such that it is flush with the keys. Basalt wool, glass wool or isolon is usually used.

The entire soft surface is sheathed with leatherette (leatherette, eco-leather) - it does not let steam through, so the insulation will last a long time. For a canvas with dimensions of 2000x800 mm, a leatherette cut of approximately 2120x920 mm is required, so that on each side there is a margin for a hem of 60 mm.

If you want to insulate the bath door, then it is better to use dense insulation and then sheathe it with dermatin

To make the door look convex from the side of the insulation, a batting is laid over the heat insulator.

Leatherette trim is nailed to the door leaf with carnations with large caps. On front side a wire or fishing line is pulled between them, which makes it possible to obtain a three-dimensional diamond-shaped pattern on the surface.

Video: how cheap and easy to insulate the door in the bath

The process of making a bath door is not complicated. By assembling the door yourself, you can make every effort and get a high-quality and durable product, while expensive branded doors often do not withstand difficult conditions operation and warp. You just need to carefully study all the recommendations again and boldly take on the tools.

Now you can buy literally everything. The same applies to doors for various buildings and premises: the product range is such that it will satisfy even the most demanding customer. But the bath is something special.

The effectiveness of the procedures adopted in it directly depends on the values ​​​​of humidity, temperature, and their constancy. That is why professionals advise everything that is required for this specific “object” to be made independently, if possible, without relying on the integrity of the manufacturers. The proposed instruction will explain step by step how to make a door to the bath with your own hands.

The layout of this building is very different; a lot depends on its size. But as a minimum, in any bath there is an entrance and a passage to the steam room. It is to the doors installed in them that special requirements are imposed. The aesthetic component obviously should not be dominant; in the first place - the ability of the block to save heat. IN furniture stores a significant assortment of bath doors, which differ, among other things, in material. If you read their description, then any of them is the best. But is it worth taking each model you like as a sample?

When making doors for a bath, you need to consider what material the building is built from. If it is a log house (made of logs, timber), then both the box and the canvas must be made of wood, and of the same breed. The latter is explained by the fact that there will be no differences in the deformation coefficients (with changes in humidity, temperature), which means that distortions, cracks, and cracks will not appear. For a bath made of bricks, cellular concrete at the entrance (but not inside), you can also put a metal structure.

Why priority to the tree? Its low thermal conductivity, the ability to "breathe", environmental friendliness - this is undeniable. But there is another explanation: it is unlikely that anyone will be able to make a door for a bath with their own hands, for example, from thick glass (in the same steam room). And therefore her homemade out of it is a hopeless business. Not the best option and thermoplastic, although it is attractive in terms of low cost and ease of processing. Any artificial material, whatever the manufacturers claim, contains a percentage of "chemistry". Given the specifics of the bath, it is better not to experiment.

Features of the door to the steam room

The order of its manufacture is generally the same as the wooden counterpart for the entrance. But there are a number of points that must be taken into account.

• The canvas should close the opening as tightly as possible so that steam does not leave the room.
• The threshold is low; maximum 50 mm.
• Opening out. Otherwise, the hinges (even the highest quality ones) of the bath door will quickly rust.
• If the bathhouse is heated “in white”, then one sash is enough; "in black" - necessarily two.

Preparatory activities

The choice of wood species

From softwood better to refuse. Although it is less prone to decay, it contains resins. Hence, their evaporation cannot be avoided. And therefore, the door to the steam room with their own hands from pine, spruce - not The best decision. What is recommended?

Aspen, oak, alder. But experts advise using mainly linden or larch. The first is interesting because when the temperature rises, it releases substances that have a beneficial effect on the body. However, in terms of durability, it is clearly inferior to larch; this tree becomes stronger when wet, therefore, it can stand at the entrance to a bathhouse or steam room for years.

Selection of lumber by size (cm)

For canvas from the array:

• Crossbars: timber 6 x 6 (8).
• Leaf: tongue-and-groove board, for a bath optimum thickness 2.5 - 5. The width is selected with the expectation that it is not necessary to cut the samples along the length, depending on the dimensions of the opening.

For prefabricated fabric:

• Box and strapping: timber 6 x 4 (6).
• Fold: board 12 x 3.5.
• Sheathing: wooden lining, thickness 1.2.

Wood processing

• This mainly concerns hardwood: impregnation with antiseptics is required. Otherwise, in a bath wooden door won't last long. There are enough appropriate drugs, but when choosing, you need to familiarize yourself with them. component composition. The agent used should not release toxic compounds at high temperatures.
• All wooden details carefully polished (by machine or by hand).

Production of aperture measurements

Before you determine the required dimensions of the block, you need to perform a number of activities:

• clear the opening. This will facilitate the process of making a door to the bathhouse with your own hands, since the dimensions will be taken as accurately as possible, and you won’t have to deal with fitting;
• check the correctness of the geometry, if necessary, align the opening.

What to consider:

• Height measurement is made in two places, along the edges of the passage in the wall; width - at several levels.
• If the bath is made of wood, then the door without a pigtail is not installed. Therefore, its dimensions are taken into account. This is a separate topic, and if necessary, you need to study.

During the construction process, some miscalculations may be made. Therefore, the opening may be slightly wider (higher) than required. You need to know that there are certain sizes of bath doors. They are smaller than similar structures installed at the entrance or inside residential buildings. This is due to the need to reduce heat loss.

If the entrance door to the bath may not meet the recommended dimensions, then for the steam room the size of the sash matters. What to focus on (in cm)?

• Width: within 65 - 75.
• Height: 165±5. This total value, since the threshold must also be taken into account (15 - 20).

Door manufacturing

From array

Make the doors to the bath according to this technique, having no experience in carpentry, difficult. This is due, first of all, to the figured selection of wood, the accuracy of marking the canvas. The following diagram clearly explains the procedure.

• The sash elements cut from the board are laid out on a flat “hard” base and adjusted to each other.
• The installation sites of the dowels are marked for connecting parts and reinforcing the bath door.
• Arrangement of grooves.
• Manufacturing of crossbars and jib (if provided).
• Canvas assembly.

On a note! Such a door for a bath has a significant weight, so the box must be installed quite massive. Accordingly, and select powerful canopies.

frame structure

Frame assembly:

• Before you knock it together, you need to clarify the dimensions. In the conditions of the bath, even the most dense and high-quality dried wood will gradually begin to absorb moisture. Therefore, it will swell over time. And therefore, the dimensions of the frame are chosen a little less than the opening with a pigtail. The recommended clearance between them along the perimeter is 5 mm.
• Since the door to the steam room will have to be insulated, it is made as a team; You will need 2 identical frames.
• All connections are easier to make "overlap" with additional reinforcement of the door with wooden spikes. As an option - metal corners.

sheathing

The frame structure consists of two parts. The one that will be turned inside the steam room is finished with a grooved board. But for the second cladding material, you can choose from several options: MDF, OSV, chipboard.

door insulation

The beam used for the manufacture of frames has certain thickness; the recommended value is shown above. It remains only to lay the insulation in one half of the frame. Which? With all the advantages of mineral wool, it is hygroscopic, and the steam room in the bath is a room with excessive humidity. Hence, not an option. It is advisable to use sheet expanded polystyrene. Cutting and laying it is easy, as well as sealing the gaps between it and the frame.

Door assembly

• The second half is superimposed on the insulated frame, leveled.
• Both parts of the bath door are rigidly fastened (with self-tapping screws).
• The gap along the perimeter of the canvas is carefully sealed. To do this, it is advisable to use a jute cord, on top of which a sealant is applied (heat-resistant category).

It remains only to fasten the loops, to make decorative trim outside, and the sauna door is ready for installation on site.

• The sash in the steam room should swing open, for safety reasons, be sure to go out.
• Given the specifics of the bath, for bonding structural elements not every hardware is suitable. Parts are selected only from steel with anti-corrosion coating. Otherwise, the rusting process will begin, and around the locations of the fastener hats will appear dark spots. Yes, and the screws will not last long; will have to deal with the repair of the box and canvas.
• When assembling the door to the steam room with your own hands, you should not use metal fittings, with the exception of awnings. Considering the room temperature, the iron handle may cause thermal burn; optimally - wooden. The same applies to various decorative elements. At least from the inside, the door should not be decorated.
• For all its merits, wood splits easily. And since it is taken initially dried for the door, nails should not be used as fasteners. the best choice. Optimal - self-tapping screws (for wood).
• The bath door is quite massive. Therefore, at least three loops are used for its fastening.

Self-manufacturing and installation of a door in a bath is a process that requires individual approach. There are many differences - in the thickness and material of the walls of the building, practical skills, financial opportunities. But if, in principle, the assembly order of the block is clear, then it is easy to make a bath door according to your own drawings, which will fit well into the wall opening and will reliably retain heat.