Is it necessary to insulate the bathhouse from the outside? When does insulating a bathhouse from the outside make no sense and when is external wall insulation justified? How to do it? How to properly insulate a brick structure

It is necessary to insulate the bathhouse not only inside, but also outside. Reliable thermal insulation with vapor barrier reduces heat loss and protects walls from the harmful effects of dampness. For each type of wall material, a suitable insulation is selected.

How to insulate a bathhouse from the outside

To insulate a bathhouse from the outside, two technologies are used: “wet facade” and “ventilated facade”. In the first case, the thermal insulation is slabs of polystyrene foam, expanded polystyrene or basalt wool. First, they are glued to the wall with foam, additionally secured with plastic dowels and umbrellas, and decorative plaster is applied on top. In the second case, a lathing is attached to the wall of the bathhouse. The cells are filled with mineral wool or basalt slabs and covered with wind protective film, fill the counter-lattice onto which the facing material is attached. A gap remains between the film and the lining, forming a ventilated space.

Ventilated facade method

If the bathhouse is built according to frame technology or the walls are made of timber, logs, the outside can only be insulated by installing a ventilated façade. For thermal insulation it is better to use basalt slabs. Rolled mineral wool sags over time, slides, and does not hold well between the sheathing elements.

Insulation from the outside begins with preparing the walls. First, they caulk the cracks and crevices between the crowns. The wood is treated with a protective impregnation. Rotten areas must be replaced. A vapor barrier is attached to the prepared wooden wall of the bathhouse.

Advice! It is better to use a special membrane as a vapor barrier for wooden bath walls.

The location of the sheathing elements is drawn using the vapor barrier material. Along the marked lines, brackets in the form of U-shaped perforated plates are attached to the walls. Pieces of roofing felt are placed under each element. The lathing is assembled from a galvanized profile or wooden blocks. The elements are fixed to perforated brackets with self-tapping screws.

When the sheathing is ready, they begin to insulate the walls of the bathhouse. Basalt wool is placed between the vertical elements. The slabs must fit tightly without gaps. The top of the insulation is covered with wind protection. The film is fixed with a stapler to the sheathing elements.

To create a ventilated space under the cladding, slats are nailed onto the vertical elements of the sheathing on top of the windbreak, forming a counter-lattice. The cladding is attached from any panels you like. To insulate the outside of a bathhouse, the Block House, which imitates a log house, is most often chosen.

Advice! If desired, the “ventilated facade” technology can be used for bathhouses made of bricks, blocks and other materials.

Insulation of different types of walls

Owners sometimes insulate the bathhouse from the outside at their own discretion. The procedure is not cheap. If the cost of heat loss exceeds the cost of cladding materials, the work will have to be done.

How to insulate a wooden bathhouse from the outside

Thick walls made of timber or logs. There is no point in insulating them from the outside. Wood itself is the insulation material, plus the internal thermal insulation of the bathhouse. Walls made of timber or logs are insulated by sealing cracks. Caulk the gaps between the crowns with flax, eliminate cracks near the frames of windows and doors.

If a wooden bathhouse is made of boards or the walls are made of thin beams or logs, a ventilated façade is installed outside. Polystyrene foam and expanded polystyrene cannot be used even in this technology. The boards do not allow moisture to pass through. For this reason, they do not combine well with wood. Wooden walls will begin to rot from the vapors accumulated under the insulation. It is better to install basalt wool in a ventilated façade.

Advice! If the log house is warm but unsightly, the outside of the bathhouse can be lined with a ventilated façade without thermal insulation. Only steam and waterproofing and sheathing are attached under the panels.

Insulation of a frame bath

A special feature of frame buildings is the presence of insulation inside the walls. There is no need for additional costs for external insulation. For beauty, you can install a ventilated façade without thermal insulation. Only if the insulation inside the frame has become unusable, then a full-fledged ventilated façade with basalt slabs is installed on the outside.

Insulation of a brick bath

For a bathhouse made of brick, cinder block, foam block and other similar materials, it is advisable to insulate the outside. Preference here is given to “wet facade” technologies. Such insulation is cheaper. Budget thermal insulation is polystyrene foam. Expanded polystyrene or basalt slabs will cost a little more. The thermal insulation on top is covered with decorative plaster and painted with facade paint.

When the budget allows, the outside walls are insulated using the “ventilated facade” technology. If for wooden bath You can only use basalt wool, but here you can lay foam or polystyrene foam slabs between the sheathing. It is only important to seal all joints and cracks with polyurethane foam to avoid the formation of cold bridges.

How to insulate a bathhouse ceiling from the outside

Inside the bathhouse, the ceiling is insulated in the same way as the walls, and a ventilated space is provided. From the outside of the attic, another technology is used. When the rough board ceiling is lined, it is covered with two layers of fiberglass. It is not advisable to use roofing material, as it will appear inside the steam room when heated. bad smell bitumen

Even rolled mineral wool can serve as thermal insulation, but in order to save money, natural materials are used for insulation. The space between the beams is filled with expanded clay. Kneading clay with the addition of fine straw, shavings, and sawdust is suitable.

When the clay pouring hardens and dries, slabs of polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene are laid on top. The thermal insulation is covered with waterproofing, and a thin concrete screed is poured. You can even walk on this surface. If the attic of the bathhouse is allocated for a rest room, after insulation the final layer is laid on the finished floor.

Is it necessary to insulate the foundation of a bathhouse from the outside?

To make sure of the importance of external foundation insulation, it is worth considering 5 reasons:

On a cold foundation in winter, a temperature difference forms in a heated bathhouse. The resulting condensation destroys the concrete base.
The problem with condensation occurs even in summer. An uninsulated foundation is heated by the sun from the outside, but the cold and moisture of the earth is drawn from the inside. The temperature difference is similar.
A foundation that is not insulated from the outside cools the steam room faster. The bathhouse has to be heated more often.
On the outside, thermal insulation in winter softens the impact of heaving soil on the foundation.
A thick layer of thermal insulation on the outside protects the foundation from destruction and accidental mechanical influences.

The listed 5 reasons convince us that insulating the foundation of a bathhouse from the outside is necessary. It can be carried out simultaneously with thermal insulation from the inside. It is impossible to do only internal insulation of the base of the bathhouse. Due to temperature changes, concrete will begin to collapse on the street side.

How to insulate the foundation of a bathhouse from the outside with your own hands

There are different ways to insulate the base from the outside. They all depend on the type of soil where the bathhouse is built, as well as on the design of the foundation itself.

The strip foundation is dug around the outside with a trench 50 cm wide. The depth is maintained at least 80 cm. A 20 cm layer of sand is poured into the trench. The concrete strip is cleaned of dirt and treated with hot bitumen. After the waterproofing has hardened, the base is covered with foam plastic or expanded polystyrene. Plates 15 cm thick are glued with foam and additionally secured with dowels and umbrellas. When using expanded polystyrene, the gap between the trench wall and the insulation is filled with sand. Polystyrene is covered brick wall. From above, the entire pie around the base is filled with a concrete blind area at an angle of 15 degrees.

A monolithic foundation is usually laid under a bathhouse in a swampy area. The base is insulated during the construction stage. Expanded polystyrene is embedded between the layers of concrete screed. On the walls outside the foundation of the bathhouse, insulation with your own hands occurs according to the principle of a strip base.

The columnar foundation creates a gap between the soil and the lower crown of the bathhouse. To insulate it, it needs to be bricked. First, a trench is dug along the perimeter of the bathhouse. The parameters are the same as for insulating a concrete strip. The bottom of the trench is covered with a 25 cm layer of sand and filled with water. When the pillow is compacted, they begin to lay out the wall. Concrete can be poured up to the ground level, and rows of bricks can be laid above. A gap is left between the last row and the crown of the bath and filled with polyurethane foam. The built base is insulated from the outside using the strip foundation method.

Insulating a bathhouse from the outside with your own hands

External insulation work can be divided into three stages: preparation, rough work, final cladding.

Surface Requirements

Regardless of the chosen insulation method, the outside walls of the bathhouse must be carefully prepared. The surface is thoroughly inspected. On wooden walls the cracks are caulked with jute or flax.

The gaps between the crowns of the log house can be sealed modern materials. The area is first primed. The gaps are pushed in with polyethylene foam cord, and sealant is applied on top.

The sealing method depends on the packaging of the paste. The sealant is applied from buckets with a spatula, and squeezed out of tubes with a pistol. Using special tape, remove the protective film from its adhesive layer. Cover the area with a strip. The top of the tape is rolled with a roller. Restored wooden surface treated with protective impregnation.

The preparation of brick and block bathhouse walls is based on sealing all cracks and potholes. Small gaps are filled with sealant. When using putty or cement, the groove is widened so that the solution penetrates deeper into the crack.

Tools

The set of tools depends on the selected material for the work. If you choose a ventilated facade for installation, you will need a saw, drill, jigsaw, hammer, and screwdriver. For installation wet facade you need spatulas, buckets, a construction mixer.

Installation

External insulation using the “ventilated facade” method consists of the following steps:

a sheathing is attached to the wall of the bathhouse (the wooden structure is first sheathed with a vapor barrier);
the cells are filled with insulation;
the windproof film is applied to the sheathing using a stapler;
a counter-lattice is attached from slats.

The entire cake is covered with facing material.

External insulation using the “wet facade” method consists of the following steps:

on the wall adhesive composition glue slabs of polystyrene foam, expanded polystyrene or basalt wool;
square thermal insulation slabs are fixed at 5 points with dowels and umbrellas;
the insulation is covered with a base layer of plaster, and the fiberglass mesh is fixed.

The final finishing is decorative plaster. The method of application depends on the chosen composition.

Conclusion

Insulating a bathhouse is not so difficult if you strictly follow the instructions and follow the procedure. The initial costs are high, but they will be recouped by the savings in energy resources used to light the stove.

Experts recommend insulating bath buildings from the outside so that the temperature is well maintained and heating costs are minimal. In addition, thanks to external thermal insulation, the building will be protected from the effects of precipitation and cold air masses, which will significantly extend its service life.

The bathhouse is insulated from the outside different ways depending on what material was used in its construction. For buildings constructed from rounded or sanded logs, it is recommended to seal existing cracks and crevices, since thick wood itself retains heat well. The washing room and steam room are usually insulated from the inside.

The insulation of a bathhouse made of timber from the outside depends on its thickness, as well as on the climatic conditions in the region. Buildings built from blocks and bricks must be insulated, since these materials have high thermal conductivity, and to maintain the temperature, the thickness of the walls must be more than 80 centimeters, which is fraught with high costs. Therefore, such bath buildings are certainly thermally insulated.

External insulation of log baths

Thermal protection of such buildings comes down to eliminating cracks. During the construction process, a special jute insulation is laid between the crowns, but over time the wood begins to dry out, cracks and gaps appear, which have to be repaired regularly.

After completing the construction of the log house and eliminating the shortcomings, the building must remain under the roof for at least six months. During this time, it is advisable not to use the bathhouse. The log house will shrink, the wood will dry out, and new cracks will begin to appear that need to be caulked.

For this purpose, special insulation made of flax and jute is used. Since jute retains heat excellently and does not ignite, but tears easily, flax fibers are added to it, which eliminate this problem. Thin pieces of insulation are driven into the cracks using a metal caulking blade and a hammer. The work is carried out carefully so that the building does not warp.

In addition, when choosing the best way to insulate a bathhouse from the outside, you should pay attention to a special sealant - to fill the cracks you just need to squeeze the mixture from a syringe directly into the voids.

A log house continues to shrink within two years. Experts advise not to cover it with finishing materials during this period, so that there is access to the cracks that arise, which have to be periodically eliminated. To protect the insulation from various precipitations, you should cover the outside of the bathhouse with film, securing it with strips.

Two years after construction, finishing can be done. Buildings made of logs can be sheathed with dies, clapboards, and in addition with a block house, imitation timber. First, the sheathing is installed on the walls. If it is wooden, then it must be treated with impregnations that have antibacterial and fire-resistant properties, and then checked building level to maintain horizontality and verticality.

Finishing material is attached to the sheathing, which is then coated with varnish or other protective agent. If metal guides were purchased, they are fixed to special hangers.

A wooden bathhouse is not insulated from the outside, since the logs themselves retain heat well. The building is thermally insulated from the inside - usually a steam room and a washing room. But if you still want to insulate the building from the outside, then a steam or hydrobarrier is placed on the material that is afraid of moisture, secured with strips, on which the finishing is then mounted.

Thermal insulation of baths made of timber

External insulation of bathhouse buildings made of timber is carried out in the same way as in the case of a structure made of logs. The building must also stand, since there are also gaps in it that have to be sealed.

Regarding the question of how to insulate a bathhouse made of timber from the outside, the choice depends on the climatic characteristics of the region and the thickness of the walls. This work is carried out if the thickness of the timber for a given climate type is not enough for effective conservation heat.

Warming occurs as follows:

the sheathing is carried out using timber or metal guides, placing the elements in two planes - vertical and horizontal;
install thermal insulation materials;
arrange moisture and wind protection;
they make counter lathing (this is not a mandatory stage of work, but there must be a gap between the protective film and the finishing material);
perform finishing work.

The outside of the bathhouse is lined with clapboard, siding, edged board, block house, metal profiles and other materials. Wood trim must be coated after finishing. varnish composition for exterior work, sometimes they are additionally painted before this, although many modern mixtures also have a slight tinting effect.

When siding was used as a finishing material, it becomes mandatory to create a ventilation gap between the sheathing and the insulation. To create the sheathing, it is recommended to use guides, which can be purchased at the same place where the siding is purchased. They are attached to special hangers.

Thermal protection of brick baths

The question often arises about how best to insulate a bathhouse from the outside or inside if it is made of brick. Such buildings must be thermally insulated, since this building material has high thermal conductivity, and without external thermal protection it is extremely difficult to warm the premises to the required temperature.

The sequence of arranging insulation remains the same:

Frame.
Insulation.
Wind and moisture insulation.
Ventilation gap.
Finishing.

It is recommended to use mineral wool as an external insulator. When solving the problem of how to properly insulate a bathhouse from the outside or inside: it should be borne in mind that mineral wool is not suitable for internal works, because when heated it begins to release formaldehyde. From the outside, you can protect a brick building with polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam boards (they are more expensive, but last a long time) and foam glass (the main disadvantage is the high cost).

In order to improve the quality of thermal insulation, experts recommend laying two layers apart, offset by half the length - this allows you to reduce heat loss by overlapping the seams. True, this method is more expensive, since it requires 2 times more material, and besides, the work takes a lot of time. For this reason, insulation is usually carried out in one layer, laying one mat tightly to the second, and the joints are connected with reinforced tape.

Siding or wood cladding is used to cover a brick bathhouse. Another way exterior finish– use of plaster if foam glass, polystyrene foam or polystyrene boards were chosen for thermal protection. In this case, a reinforced mesh is laid on top of this material, a primer is placed and then plaster is applied.

They also use the following method, how to insulate a bathhouse from the outside with your own hands - following the example of a ventilated facade. In such a situation, special L-shaped brackets are attached to the wall with a gap of 1 centimeter less than the width of the insulation. Then slabs or insulation mats are tightly secured between them.

For reliability, they are reinforced with dowels, although this is not mandatory - the material will hold on well on its own, which is why this fixation step is done. The joints of the slabs are connected with reinforced tape or treated with an adhesive composition, a waterproofing film is laid on top and secured with strips. Afterwards, guides are mounted on the brackets, which hold the insulation and at the same time serve as the basis for finishing. Using this algorithm, you can also thermally insulate baths made of cinder blocks, foam blocks, and aerated concrete. It will also be useful for you to know how to insulate a brick bathhouse from the inside with your own hands to minimize heat loss.

Exterior design of block baths

As for how to insulate a bathhouse from the outside, for a building made of blocks it is allowed to use the same options as in the cases described above. Another way is to decorate the bathhouse building with decorative brickwork, but this method can only be used if the building maintains a constantly above-zero temperature.

If the decision is made to lay out the bathhouse from blocks with bricks, then the additional wall can be made incompletely, retreating by 5-10 centimeters. Thanks to this, the thermal insulation performance will improve somewhat. The gap is either left empty or filled with thermal insulation material - processed sawdust, expanded clay, and so on.

In order to prevent moisture from collecting in the space between the walls, small ventilation gaps are created in the outer walls, and short pieces of fastening reinforcement are driven into the load-bearing walls to securely fix the finishing structure.

Today, the block house is very popular - a finish that imitates a wall made of logs. It is produced from various materials: wood, vinyl (PVC), metal. The building, clad in a block house, looks as if it were made of natural wood.

If the question arises about how to insulate an old bathhouse, then the work is carried out in exactly the same way as when building a new one, depending on the material from which it is constructed. Finally, you can cover it with finishing materials, and the building will look attractive again.

Insulating a bathhouse is an important measure, without which it will not be possible to maintain a high temperature in the building. In addition, space heating costs will be reduced. Regarding the problem of how to insulate wooden sauna outside - then its decision depends on from which building material The structure was quickly erected. The work is simple enough that you can do it yourself. After insulating the bath, all that remains is to complete the finishing suitable material– and it is completely ready for use.

September 3, 2016
Specialization: professional in the field of construction and renovation ( full cycle carrying out finishing works, both internal and external, from sewerage to electrical and finishing works), installation of window structures. Hobbies: see the column "SPECIALIZATION AND SKILLS"

Insulating a bathhouse from the outside with your own hands (as well as high-quality thermal insulation inside) is a prerequisite for maintaining a high temperature in the steam room and ensuring a comfortable microclimate in other rooms. Even walls made of energy-efficient materials (porous concrete, hollow ceramic bricks, laminated veneer lumber) need to be insulated. And this applies primarily to structures built using traditional technology.

In this article I will present the algorithms that I use myself when performing external and internal thermal insulation baths and saunas.

Thermal insulation of load-bearing structures

Exterior wall decoration with polymer panels

Getting started thermal insulation work in the bathhouse, many focus only on internal thermal insulation. This approach is fundamentally wrong, because by performing high-quality insulation on the outside with our own hands, we will ensure additional protection from thermal energy losses.

This means that in order to obtain the heat we need in the steam room and comfortable coolness in the dressing room, it will be possible to spend less energy (it doesn’t matter - firewood, gas or electricity). So the costs of insulating the outside will pay off, and in the case of a bathhouse even faster than with a living space.

Thermal insulation of walls can be carried out according to two schemes. Universal option no, but I prefer to finish buildings made of brick or concrete blocks with foam plastic or polystyrene followed by plaster, and insulate a wooden bathhouse using the “ventilated facade” technology.

First, let's figure out how a brick bathhouse needs to be prepared for finishing:

I clean the walls, checking the seams between the blocks and, if necessary, repairing them.
The outer surface is primed, protecting the brick from efflorescence, fungus, and improving adhesion with the adhesive. If we neglect the primer, then before we have time to blink an eye, salt will emerge from the brick under a layer of insulation with high vapor barrier characteristics (and polymer boards allow air to pass through very poorly), destroying the load-bearing surfaces.
I install a U-shaped base profile along the lower edge of the wall: it will prevent the insulation from sliding down under its own weight.

I glue panels of thermal insulation material - polystyrene foam, expanded polystyrene or dense mineral wool - onto the walls in a checkerboard pattern, using an adhesive mixture based on high-quality cement with waterproofing additives.

You need to choose insulation for a bath based on its resistance to heat transfer: this indicator depends on both the type of material and its thickness. If internal thermal insulation is planned, then 100 mm of polystyrene foam or 50 mm of extruded polystyrene is sufficient on the outside.

Next, I take a hammer drill with a long drill and drill through the insulation so that the drill penetrates 40-50 mm into the wall. I fix the foam with dowel umbrellas, strengthening the adhesive fasteners.

I plaster the insulation, reinforcing the structure with alkali-resistant polystyrene mesh.
I grout the plaster and paint the walls on the outside with weather-resistant paint.

Frame facade

If the bath is made of timber or logs, or erected using frame technology, then I prefer to equip the so-called ventilated facade. The obvious pole of this design is vapor permeability (it largely solves the problem of excess humidity in the room), so when deciding which insulation to choose for a frame bath, you should focus on mineral fiber-based plates.

The operating algorithm will differ significantly from the option described above:

First, we need to put the walls themselves in order - clean, caulk the seams, treat all surfaces with antiseptic impregnations.

If there are signs of damage to the wood, then these areas must be sanitized, and if defects are severe, the logs or beams must be replaced. All the same, it is pointless to insulate a rotten bathhouse, since under a layer of heat-insulating material the process of wood destruction will go many times faster.

Then we install brackets on the walls, placing roofing material under their base or it will hurt.

We attach the sheathing panels to the brackets. They are made either from timber impregnated with an antiseptic, or from a galvanized steel profile. Despite the fact that timber is more prone to deformation, I prefer to insulate the bathhouse precisely according to wooden sheathing: after all, metal conducts heat better and therefore it can become a “cold bridge” .

Next, we place them in the cells of the sheathing thermal insulation material. When deciding which is best for a frame bath, I settled on medium-density mineral wool (up to 45 kg/m3). But I know of cases where ecowool was sprayed onto the walls outside (as well as into the internal cavities of the frame) instead of basalt fiber slabs - five years have passed since the repair, and there are no complaints about the quality of insulation.

Mineral wool holds perfectly in the cells due to its elasticity, but when compressed it somewhat loses its heat-saving properties. To avoid this, it is worth making the frame in strict accordance with the dimensions of the mineral wool slabs (standard - 600 mm), and in order to prevent the insulation from falling out, additionally fix it with several disc-shaped dowels.

The insulation for a frame, timber or log bathhouse must be covered with a windproof superdiffusion membrane. This material must be vapor-permeable, since otherwise moisture will accumulate under the skin and moisten the thermal insulation layer.
Then everything depends on the dimensions of our sheathing. If we did it with a reserve and there is a gap of at least 20 mm between the insulation layer and the edge of the frame, then we immediately move on to the sheathing. If there is no reserve, then we press the heat-insulating panels with counter-lattice beams (I use parts with a cross-section of 40x40): a block house, false beam or other decorative material will be attached to them.

Roof insulation

An uninsulated bathhouse roof is a source of about 20-30% of heat loss. Of course, we can block some of them by thermally insulating the ceiling, but it is advisable to finish the roof slopes themselves with materials with low thermal conductivity.

We proceed like this:

If there is no waterproofing layer under the roofing material (in my mind it should be there, but you never know!) - we lay a moisture-proof, vapor-permeable membrane, passing it over the rafters. To do this, you almost always have to dismantle at least part roofing material, therefore the waterproofing procedure should be performed at the stage of construction of the structure.

We treat the rafters themselves and the elements of the roof sheathing with an antiseptic (again, this should be done earlier).
We lay thermal insulation material in the gaps between the rafters on the inside. Optimal choice for thermal insulation of the roof with your own hands - basalt fiber in slabs or rolls with a thickness of 50 to 75 mm.
From the inside we cover the insulation with a vapor barrier film, which we fix directly on the rafters. To additionally secure the entire structure, we either stuff cross-bars of counter-lattice onto the rafters, or we fill the roof with clapboard - in the second case, we will get a fairly neat-looking attic.

Interior decoration

We insulate the floor

The answer to the question of how to properly insulate a bathhouse from the inside is no less complicated. This set of procedures usually begins with work on the floor covering:

We cover the concrete base with roofing felt, on which we install support beams for the logs.

If the floor in the bathhouse is made on the ground, then the ground must be compacted and covered with a layer of sand and gravel mixture with a thickness of 15 to 40 cm. The backfill is carefully compacted, and for greater stability it can be concreted.

We lay logs on the support beams, the ends of which are secured to the walls of the room.
Cover the space between the joists with a layer of expanded clay. The thicker this layer is, the less heat loss will be through the lower layer of air in the room.
We cover the expanded clay with a waterproofing film. In principle, you can lay a rough flooring on top of the expanded clay layer - but this is not necessary.
We lay panels of thermal insulation material between the joists. If we are finishing a dressing room or a rest room, then we can use polystyrene foam or even get by with polystyrene foam, but for the steam room only mineral wool is suitable - it is important that the material is insensitive to high temperatures.

We lay a waterproofing, vapor-tight membrane on top of the insulation. The quality of hydro- and vapor barrier is very important: by ensuring it, we minimize the risk of contact of the insulation with water.
Next, we lay the subfloor, and then install the floor covering from solid boards or ceramic tiles. The board is “warmer” and more pleasant to the touch, but the tiles are easier to clean and less susceptible to swelling when wet, so the choice is yours!

Finishing the walls

When covering a steam room, relaxation room and dressing room with our own hands, we must take care not only of their insulation, but also of protecting the thermal insulation from moisture and high temperatures. The steam room from this point of view is the most difficult rooms, therefore I will talk about the technology using its example:

I prime the walls with a moisture-proof antiseptic compound.
I mount the crate bars on the walls in such a way that the distance from the edge of the bar to the wall is approximately equal to or slightly more than the thickness of the heat-insulating material.

When choosing which is better to take a heater for a steam room, you need to remember that we need a non-combustible material with low thermal conductivity. Polymer plates are not suitable here, and I would not risk it with ecowool, so there is no alternative to mineral fiber up to 100 - 150 mm thick (less can be in the dressing room).

I lay the plates or rolls of insulation in the cells of the crate, making sure that the fibers experience a minimum compressive load.
I cover the thermal insulation with vapor barrier material on top. For most rooms, an ordinary membrane is also suitable, but in a steam room a foil film or polyethylene foam with a metallized coating will be appropriate. Yes, the price of such products is quite high, but in addition to protecting mineral wool from moisture, they also act as a thermal mirror, reflecting heat into the steam room and providing solid energy savings.

Separately, I insulate the slopes: both windows and windows need to be made as airtight as possible, which will reduce the risk of drafts (in the bath, and on a steamed body - an almost guaranteed cold), as well as reduce heat loss.
Next, I equip the counter-lattice: stuffing thin slats onto the frame, which will ensure the formation of an air gap between the skin and the insulation.

I install it on the counter-lattice decorative panels. For a steam room, cladding made of alder, poplar or other hardwood is usually practiced, but for rooms where the air does not warm up to such a high temperature, you can also take quite cheap pine.
I also impregnate the decorative cladding with a moisture-proofing compound to prevent it from rotting and reduce the deformation of wet wood due to temperature changes.

Minimizing losses through the ceiling

And log, and frame, and brick bath They also need ceiling insulation. But if the ceiling is insulated inside using approximately the same technology as the walls, then outside, i.e. from the attic side, you can use another technique:

We lay two layers of fiberglass on top of the rough ceiling - it will act as a barrier to liquid.
Prepare a thermal insulation solution: mix clay with sawdust or chopped straw in a 1:1 ratio, then fill the material with water and mix until it becomes a thick dough.

Pour the solution between ceiling beams, making sure that liquid does not seep through the fiberglass into the lower rooms.
We dry the clay (this is not a quick process, it may take several weeks), and then lay a layer of dense insulation.
We cover the thermal insulation material with a moisture-proof membrane, after which we fill in a cement fixing screed.

Thanks to this technology, we create a multi-layer cake with our own hands, which practically does not allow heat to pass through.

Conclusion

Insulating a bathhouse is a whole complex of works that (of course, if implemented correctly) will minimize all heat loss, reduce the cost of heating a steam room, and, most importantly, ensure stable heat, for which we actually go to the bathhouse!

The video in this article will help you understand the nuances of the technology, and with complex questions you can always contact me or my colleagues in the comments below.

Features of external bath insulation technology
Insulation of a wooden bathhouse from the outside
How to insulate a brick bathhouse from the outside?
Features of insulating a frame bath from the outside
Features and technology of bathhouse foundation insulation
Features of insulating bath walls from the inside

Are you planning to build your own bathhouse or is construction already in full swing? Maybe you are already the happy owner of a steam room, but you feel that something urgently needs to be improved or remodeled?

The insulation of a bathhouse consists of several layers: sheathing of the main walls, two or more layers of insulation, waterproofing, sheathing and decorative finishing.

Keep in mind that effective and proper insulation of the bathhouse from the outside and inside is the key to high-quality heating of the steam room, heat retention and economical consumption fuel. Features of the thermal insulation of baths directly depend on the material that was used to build the building, whether it be wood, brick, sandwich panels or, for example, cinder block. Depending on this, it is necessary to select the appropriate insulation.

Features of external bath insulation technology

External wall insulation scheme.

The main task that should be effectively solved by the insulation of the walls and foundation of the bath from the outside is the isolation of building structures from direct contact with cold outdoor air, the prevention of drafts inside the premises and the protection of the bath from precipitation, which negatively affect the quality and durability of building materials.

The method in accordance with which the foundation and walls of the bath are insulated from the outside depends, as already mentioned, on what material was used in the construction as the main one: foam blocks, sandwich panels, wood or brick. Regardless of which bath you are going to insulate, prepare following materials and tools:

hammer;
hacksaw;
roulette;
construction stapler;
painting knife;
lath for sheathing;
insulation;
vapor barrier film with aluminum coating;
thermal film or regular polyethylene;
self-adhesive tape for foil;
nails;
boards.

Insulation of a wooden bathhouse from the outside

To insulate a wooden bath from the outside, as a rule, interventional insulation is used. In most cases it is jute.

Scheme of the ceiling in the bathhouse.

Excellent interaction with moisture, low thermal conductivity - these are the main advantages of this material. And if you add special materials containing flax fibers to the bundle, then elasticity, elasticity and strength will be added to its positive characteristics.

Insulation of the walls of the bath from the outside with jute, flax-jute fiber or flax wool is carried out according to the following technology:

inter-crown insulation is installed;
joints are processed;
jute fiber is stuffed with compaction. It is necessary to caulk from the very bottom and gradually move around the perimeter. Otherwise, the log house may become warped;
caulked seams are treated with sealant.

How to insulate a brick bathhouse from the outside?

Scheme of wall insulation in a bathhouse.

The high thermal conductivity of this material requires additional thermal insulation. Otherwise, you will either need to build thick enough walls, or spend more money on energy.

Insulation of the walls of a brick bathhouse from the outside involves the use of ventilated facade technology. After the outside insulation is completed, the wall will be a kind of pie consisting of brick, insulation, waterproofing layer and external finishing.

If you are planning to insulate the walls of a brick bathhouse from the outside, pay attention to mineral wool. It is best suited for such work.

The very insulation of the walls of a brick bath from the outside involves the following technology:

the corner brackets are being strengthened to the wall;
insulation is inserted between the corners of the mats;
the joints between the mats are glued with tape or a special adhesive solution;
the walls are covered with a waterproofing layer;
Special guides are installed at the corners for additional retention of the heat-insulating material.

If you are going to insulate the walls of a brick bathhouse from the outside, you can also use polystyrene foam for this, however, it is not suitable for insulation from the inside, as it is toxic and unstable to high temperatures.

Features of insulating a frame bath from the outside

If you need to insulate the walls of a frame bath, it is best to use polystyrene foam for this. In this case, the lightness of this material plays a decisive role. Although there are other advantages, for example, hydro-repellent properties and low thermal conductivity.

You can insulate a frame bath from the outside using foam boards, even without having the skills to work with this material. The insulation simply needs to be glued to the wall or secured with self-tapping screws, and plaster or decorative plaster should be applied on top. façade cladding. The disadvantage of polystyrene foam is its fragility, which is why you need to be especially careful when working with this material.

Features and technology of bathhouse foundation insulation

Insulating a bathhouse from the inside must begin with the floors. However, before this, it is necessary to insulate the foundation. If this is not done, then no matter how insulated and reliable the floors of your bathhouse are, cold air it will still get inside.

If we consider the foundation from the point of view of possible heat loss, then it can be divided into 2 zones: the underground part and the base. Accordingly, insulation of the steam room foundation can be done in 2 ways. The underground part is insulated with a layer of expanded clay, the height of which should be approximately 2 times greater than the thickness of the walls. Then the base is sheathed on the outside with mineral wool or extruded polystyrene foam.

Technologically, insulating the foundation is not particularly difficult. Acceptable use of 1 of 2 possible options. The foundation is insulated until the soil freezes. This parameter is determined separately for each region. When installing thermal insulation material at a greater depth, the effectiveness of using insulation is significantly reduced. In corner areas, the thermal insulation layer must be increased by 1.4-1.6 times.

If the foundation is insulated using extruded polystyrene foam, additional installation protective coating there is no need for a waterproofing layer that would protect it from mechanical damage.

In preparation for pouring the foundation, the trench and formwork for pouring the foundation are made wider than the calculated dimensions by the thickness of the sheet, or better yet, even 2 sheets of polystyrene insulation. The insulation is attached to the surface of the foundation after the formwork is removed. The part of the foundation that rises above the ground can be finished decorative stone or tiles directly on the thermal insulation material. This completes the insulation of the bathhouse foundation.

Features of insulating bath walls from the inside

Scheme of insulation with vapor barrier.

It is imperative to insulate the walls of the bathhouse from the inside. Insulation is carried out depending on what material the walls are made of.

The panel walls of the bathhouse assume that the heat-insulating material is located between the vapor and waterproofing layers. The main requirement for the material with which the panel walls of the bathhouse will be insulated from the inside is its lightness. The most commonly used materials are mineral wool, reed slabs or expanded polystyrene. Panel walls are lined with plastic from the inside; cheaper options are also possible, for example, fiberboard or waterproof plywood.

When choosing a thermal insulation material with which to insulate the frame walls of a bathhouse from the inside, it is necessary to take into account the climatic characteristics of your region. Thus, in very cold climatic zones, reed or fiberboard slabs have proven themselves to be excellent.

Just 10 cm of a frame wall of a bathhouse with reed insulation corresponds in its thermal insulation characteristics to 50 cm of solid wall brickwork. In warmer regions, it is recommended to use sawdust, cement, shavings, and gypsum for internal insulation. Sawdust mixed with lime or gypsum in a ratio of 10:1 is poured into a layer 20 cm thick into the space between the inner and outer wall sheathing.

In addition to insulation from the inside frame wall needs a vapor barrier. Polyethylene film, glassine or roofing felt are placed between the plank sheathing and the thermal insulation layer.

The process of insulating walls from the inside using fiber insulation is carried out as follows:

A special mounting frame is installed. The frame is made of 50x50 beams, which are nailed vertically to internal walls steam room with a gap of 55 cm.

The insulation is installed, after which the joints between the insulation and the frame are sealed using construction tape. Next, the foil insulation is installed, and the lining is stuffed onto the frame.

Insulation of the walls of a timber bath from the inside is carried out using insulation of different thicknesses. So, if for external wall you need a layer of 10 cm, then for the inner one 5 cm is enough.

A prerequisite is the creation of an air gap 3-5 cm thick between the heat-insulating layer and the wall. It is recommended to lay fiber insulation in a double layer. The inner layer does not require the presence of foil.

Insulation of a bathhouse from the outside and inside: features and technologies

Insulating a bathhouse from the outside and inside is very milestone construction and operation of the bathhouse. Proper insulation will make the bathhouse as comfortable and warm as possible.

Thermal insulation of the bathhouse from the inside and outside

The main advantage of a good bath is that its steam room should warm up well and keep warm for a long time. Therefore, unlike most residential buildings, it is advisable to insulate the bathhouse both outside and inside. A bathhouse built from any material needs insulation: stone (brick or gas-foam concrete blocks), wood or built on the basis of sandwich panels.

Materials for bath insulation

Despite the fact that a bathhouse is a rather specific structure and/or room, it is insulated with the same materials that are used for thermal insulation of any other buildings and rooms. However, with regard to baths, there are some restrictions and features of the use of certain insulation materials. This is explained by the special temperature conditions in which it is operated.

So, for internal insulation of baths, as a rule, they use mineral insulation(basalt fiber, mineral and glass wool). They are durable; moisture-proof and fire-resistant; do not rot and are not damaged by pests. They are sold both in the form of mats and in rolls.

Inexpensive organic fiber insulation materials made from peat, reeds, wood waste and insulation based on foamed plastic (foam plastic, EPS) have good thermal insulation properties. However, many fibrous organic insulation materials are susceptible to rotting and are afraid of fire, and polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam emit dangerous chemicals when burned. Therefore, it is advisable to use them only for internal thermal insulation of utility rooms (dressing room, locker room, rest room) and for external insulation.

Plates of organic insulation must be treated with antiseptic compounds before use. For example, reeds are impregnated with a 3% composition iron sulphate. When insulating walls externally, it is advisable to cover mats made of organic insulation on both sides with asbestos-cement slabs to protect them from fire.

External insulation

How to insulate a bathhouse depends on what material it is built from. Thermal insulation of frame, stone, wooden buildings, free-standing and attached baths is carried out differently. Frame baths built from sandwich panels are insulated in a special way - these structures cannot be insulated with heavy materials.

Stone bath (brick, foam blocks, cinder blocks, aerated concrete blocks). The easiest way to retain heat in such a bathhouse is to use ventilated facade technology: a frame is attached to its outer walls, into which mineral wool slabs are inserted. The same frame serves as the basis for facing materials– siding, lining, etc. You can insulate a stone bathhouse from the outside with foam plastic or EPPS boards, and then plaster or veneer it in another way.
Wooden bathhouse (log or timber). Wooden buildings shrink over time, and gaps appear between the crowns. For thermal insulation in this case, jute materials are usually used - flax-jute felt; flax wool - or the so-called “construction” red moss. Unlike other organic insulation, this natural insulation does not rot, and when it catches fire, it does not flare up, but smolders. The insulation is placed between the crowns when constructing a log house from a log or timber. The second time the log house is processed when it is completely folded: jute material or moss is firmly driven into the joints between the beams or logs, compacting it with a special tool - caulk - and a hammer. They begin to caulk the frame around the perimeter, starting from the bottom crown, so that it does not warp. A sealant is applied over the caulked seams.
The thermal insulation of a bathhouse assembled using frame technology has some features. The walls of the frame can be filled with arbolite mass (a mixture sawdust, gypsum and lime, soaked in a solution of iron sulfate) or lay medium-thick poles inside it, caulking the gaps with red moss, clay with sawdust, etc. Externally frame structures insulated with foam plastic or polystyrene foam boards. To increase the fire resistance of a building, the insulation can be protected on one or both sides with thin asbestos boards.

General diagram of internal insulation of a bathhouse building

Internal thermal insulation

The floor in the bathhouse is insulated in the same way as in any other room, the only difference is the “reinforced” waterproofing. The best flooring for floors in brick baths and baths made of blocks is tile: it warms up quickly and does not cool down for a long time. The peculiarity of thermal insulation of a wooden bath floor is that it is not recommended to impregnate boards for roughing equipment, and even more so for finishing, with antiseptic and other protective chemical compounds.
Walls. In auxiliary premises(rest room, locker room, dressing room) the walls can be insulated using any method suitable for internal wall insulation. However, in the steam room, given its special temperature regime, frame insulation using mineral wool is recommended. The thickness of insulating mats in a stone bath should be twice as thick as when insulating similar walls of any other room in a building made of brick and stone. In a bathhouse made of thick timber, the thickness of the insulation layer may be small. The walls are sheathed on top of the insulation wooden clapboard. Wooden lining is also used in brick baths - to retain heat longer - and in wooden baths. Heating up, wooden wall covering It smells pleasant, creating a unique coziness in the room. Coniferous boards release resin when heated, so it is preferable to cover the walls with clapboard made of hardwood - alder, linden, aspen.
Ceiling. In wooden and frame baths, the ceiling is insulated in the same way as the walls, by inserting insulating mats into the wooden frame. It is better to do this immediately during the construction of the bathhouse. In stone baths and cinder block baths, it is better to insulate the ceiling from the outside (from the roof side) using mineral, basalt wool or glass wool. Do not forget that the chimney outlets must be coated with fire-resistant mastic or protected with non-flammable asbestos materials.

Internal ceiling insulation

Door insulation

Proper thermal insulation of a bathhouse is impossible without installing “warm” doors: if after the steam room you go out into the dressing room, where there are drafts on the floor, it won’t take long for you to catch a cold. To reduce heat loss, bath doors make them narrow and tall and “fit” them as tightly as possible to door frame. Additional insulation will be provided by a two-layer door.

It consists of two wooden or steel sheets connected by beams so that a mineral wool or other non-flammable sealant can be placed between them. A wooden double door is easy to make yourself. From the outside, it can be additionally sheathed with thick foam rubber or mineral wool, and covered with leatherette on top of the insulation.

How to insulate a bathhouse from the inside and outside

To insulate a bathhouse inside and out, the same materials are used as for thermal insulation of other rooms and buildings. However, the thermal insulation of a bathhouse has its own characteristics that must be taken into account when insulating it.

Insulation of a bathhouse from the inside: thermal insulation of concrete, stone, brick structures

How to insulate a bathhouse from the inside? Which insulation should you prefer and how to apply it? How to finish the floor and walls of the steam room and dressing room? Let's try to figure it out.

Any insulated façade will only spoil the appearance of the log house. Let's better figure out how to insulate the walls of the bathhouse from the inside.

To understand how and with what to insulate the walls of a bathhouse from the inside, let’s first have a good idea of the conditions in which the materials will find themselves.

High humidity both in the steam room and in the washing department (if, of course, it is a separate room). The air in the dressing room is also unlikely to be dry. The conclusions are obvious: the insulation either should not be hygroscopic, or should be protected by reliable vapor and waterproofing.
The temperature in the steam room can reach 100 degrees or more. Polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene with such strong heating are guaranteed to release substances into the atmosphere that will definitely not add to your health.

Please note: for the same reason, the finishing materials for the steam room never include linoleum or plastic panels. Wall panels, in addition to releasing harmful substances, they are quite capable of deforming already at 80 - 90 degrees.

A significant part of the heat at high temperatures is lost not only due to convection, but also in the form of infrared radiation. What does this mean? The fact that our scheme for insulating a bathhouse from the inside should include a reflective layer - foil or material with a foil-coated surface.

Foil insulation reflects 90% of thermal radiation.

The insulation of bathhouse walls from the inside is, of course, influenced by the material of these walls. What options are possible?

Concrete, stone, brick

Insulation in this case is mandatory. And not only for reasons of heat conservation: constantly wet walls with temperature fluctuations over a wide range will collapse quite quickly.

The thickness of the insulation depends on the thickness of the walls and climate zone. In general, a ten-centimeter layer is recommended.

How to insulate a wooden bathhouse from the inside? And is this necessary in principle?

The situation is controversial. On the one hand, it definitely won’t get worse from insulation; on the other hand, a log or timber in itself is not the worst material for the walls of a steam room and dressing room.

Thicker walls are either not finished from the inside at all, or are protected with waterproofing and lining. Lathing is needed only when the walls have noticeable blockages.

Typically, horizontal strips of vapor-waterproofing material are sewn with a stapler with a five-centimeter overlap. The bottom sheets are hemmed first: the overlap should prevent water from flowing under the material.

Attention: do not forget about high temperatures and do not use polyethylene as a vapor barrier.

Modern vapor barrier materials can withstand the temperature of a steam room without negative consequences.

So, how to insulate a bathhouse from the inside?

The optimal insulation is basalt wool. Hard mats are used; as already mentioned, in the vast majority of cases a thickness of 10 centimeters can be recommended. For the ceiling, it makes sense to increase the layer thickness to 15-20 centimeters: most of Heat in the steam room is lost through the roof and ceiling.

What else is needed?

Lathing. The most durable option for a stone or brick bath is a frame made from a plasterboard profile. Typically a CD ceiling profile is used; The perimeter of each wall is edged with a UD guide profile. Direct hangers are attached every 0.6 - 0.8 meters; the step between the profiles is made a centimeter or two less than the width of the insulation board.

But in a wooden bath you can save money: the price per linear meter of a bar is slightly lower than that of a profile; however, the durability of the solution will still be limited by the material of the walls themselves.

Water vapor barrier with foil. We need not only a material that is impermeable to water and steam, but also heat-resistant. Fortunately, the modern market can offer many solutions of the type we need: for example, foil-foamed polypropylene Penotherm NPP LF is designed for temperatures up to +150 degrees.

It will not only protect the walls from dampness and reflect radiant heat, but, like any foam material, it will further reduce heat loss. According to the manufacturer, a 3-mm layer of Penotherm provides the same degree of thermal insulation as a 150-mm timber.

Useful: for a bathhouse made of logs or beams of small thickness, this material can also serve as the main insulation.

The insulation inside the bathhouse will be hidden by a layer of finishing. Traditionally, wooden lining made of linden or aspen is used for it. These types of wood do not burn even at high temperatures, are resistant to rotting and retain their original appearance for a long time.

Linden lining, unlike most types of wood, does not darken over time.

Floor, doors and windows

When we talk about how to insulate a bathhouse from the inside with your own hands, it usually means increasing the thermal resistance of the ceiling and walls. However, drafts and cold floors can also take away a lot of heat (see also article

How are these problems solved?

Insulation of the floor on the loggia: selection of materials and work procedure).

How are these problems solved?

It is enough to make a frame of thick felt around the perimeter of the door to the steam room. It will reliably close the cracks through which it can pass through.
It is enough to insulate the frames of wooden windows in the steam room, washing compartment and dressing room with cotton wool. The insulation of plastic windows comes down to gluing with foam rubber self-adhesive strips: plastic is not placed in a steam room with its high temperatures, and in other rooms there is no need to worry about thermal decomposition of polymers.
How and with what to insulate the floor? The instructions depend on its type:

The surface of a wooden leaking floor is covered with expanded clay. Boards are laid on the carefully leveled backfill.
Installation of a concrete leaking floor begins with digging a half-meter pit.

Then the following layers are located from bottom to top: 5 centimeters of sand; 20 centimeters of foam; 5 centimeters of concrete with foam chips in a 1:1 ratio; waterproofing (for a relatively cool floor, you can use polyethylene or even roofing felt); 5 centimeters of concrete with vermiculite (a natural mineral with low thermal conductivity) in a 1:1 ratio; reinforced 5 cm screed.

A slope for water drainage is made when pouring the screed; The boardwalk is laid on top of the joists.

Insulation of the floor on the loggia: selection of materials and work procedure).

How are these problems solved?

It is enough to make a frame of thick felt around the perimeter of the door to the steam room. It will reliably close the cracks through which it can pass through.
It is enough to insulate the frames of wooden windows in the steam room, washing compartment and dressing room with cotton wool. The insulation of plastic windows comes down to gluing with foam rubber self-adhesive strips: plastic is not placed in a steam room with its high temperatures, and in other rooms there is no need to worry about thermal decomposition of polymers.
How and with what to insulate the floor? The instructions depend on its type:

The surface of a wooden leaking floor is covered with expanded clay. Boards are laid on the carefully leveled backfill.
Installation of a concrete leaking floor begins with digging a half-meter pit.

A slope for water drainage is made when pouring the screed; The boardwalk is laid on top of the joists.

How are these problems solved?

It is enough to make a frame of thick felt around the perimeter of the door to the steam room. It will reliably close the cracks through which it can pass through.
It is enough to insulate the frames of wooden windows in the steam room, washing compartment and dressing room with cotton wool. The insulation of plastic windows comes down to gluing with foam rubber self-adhesive strips: plastic is not placed in a steam room with its high temperatures, and in other rooms there is no need to worry about thermal decomposition of polymers.
How and with what to insulate the floor? The instructions depend on its type:

The surface of a wooden leaking floor is covered with expanded clay. Boards are laid on the carefully leveled backfill.
Installation of a concrete leaking floor begins with digging a half-meter pit.

A slope for water drainage is made when pouring the screed; The boardwalk is laid on top of the joists.

Useful: the temperature on the floor is lower, and the tiles in the steam room usually do not heat up to an uncomfortable temperature. However, it is better to provide some kind of wooden foot rests: it will be much more pleasant to steam.

Walls and ceiling

We found out how to insulate a bathhouse inside. What is the sequence of operations? Are there any subtleties in the work ahead of us?

In general, no. We insulate the bathhouse from the inside just like any other room (Read also the article

Insulation

How and how to insulate a loggia from the inside). You just have to pay increased attention to the reliability of the vapor barrier.

The distance from its surface to the rough wall or ceiling should be slightly greater than the thickness of the insulation. In the case of using galvanized profiles, this distance is regulated by hangers; the block is nailed through the lining (for example, sections of the same block). You can, of course, use galvanized hangers for wooden sheathing.

In case you have never worked with drywall, we will tell you about the sequence of installing the profile.

A UD guide profile is attached along the perimeter of the wall or ceiling in increments of no more than 60 centimeters. It can be attached to logs or beams with self-tapping screws; for brick or concrete wall you will have to use screws with plastic dowels.
The axes of the CD profiles are marked (the distance between them, we recall, should allow the insulation boards to stand up without trimming). Then the hangers are attached to the wall along the axes in increments of 0.6 - 0.8 meters.
CD profiles are installed and secured to the hangers with metal screws 0.9 centimeters long. The free edges of the hangers are bent.

Insulation

Basalt wool slabs are spaced and inserted between profiles or bars. Actually, the insulation of a loggia or ventilated facade is performed in exactly the same way: you have probably seen the installation procedure from the outside more than once.

A few tips are worth giving, however.

To the question of how to insulate a bathhouse from the inside, any occupational safety engineer will give a clear answer: with glasses and a respirator or a gauze bandage. Insulation fibers are volatile and irritate mucous membranes.

How and how to insulate a loggia from the inside). You just have to pay increased attention to the reliability of the vapor barrier.

In case you have never worked with drywall, we will tell you about the sequence of installing the profile.

A UD guide profile is attached along the perimeter of the wall or ceiling in increments of no more than 60 centimeters. It can be attached to logs or beams with self-tapping screws; for a brick or concrete wall, you will have to use screws with plastic dowels.
The axes of the CD profiles are marked (the distance between them, we recall, should allow the insulation boards to stand up without trimming). Then the hangers are attached to the wall along the axes in increments of 0.6 - 0.8 meters.
CD profiles are installed and secured to the hangers with metal screws 0.9 centimeters long. The free edges of the hangers are bent.

Insulation

A few tips are worth giving, however.

To the question of how to insulate a bathhouse from the inside, any occupational safety engineer will give a clear answer: with glasses and a respirator or a gauze bandage. Insulation fibers are volatile and irritate mucous membranes.

In case you have never worked with drywall, we will tell you about the sequence of installing the profile.

A UD guide profile is attached along the perimeter of the wall or ceiling in increments of no more than 60 centimeters. It can be attached to logs or beams with self-tapping screws; for a brick or concrete wall, you will have to use screws with plastic dowels.
The axes of the CD profiles are marked (the distance between them, we recall, should allow the insulation boards to stand up without trimming). Then the hangers are attached to the wall along the axes in increments of 0.6 - 0.8 meters.
CD profiles are installed and secured to the hangers with metal screws 0.9 centimeters long. The free edges of the hangers are bent.

Insulation

A few tips are worth giving, however.

To the question of how to insulate a bathhouse from the inside, any occupational safety engineer will give a clear answer: with glasses and a respirator or a gauze bandage. Insulation fibers are volatile and irritate mucous membranes.

Important: to ensure reliable vapor barrier, it is not enough just to fix the material. It is necessary to glue all the joints with the same aluminum tape: then moisture is guaranteed not to get to the insulation.

Clapboard lining

We seem to have figured out how to properly insulate a bathhouse from the inside. How to make an insulated room beautiful? Let's start with the preparation of tools and additional materials that will be required for wall cladding.

Drill - screwdriver.

Drill - screwdriver.
Jigsaw or circular saw.
Rasp. They will have to adjust and process the edges of the lining.
Carpenter's square. It's enough to mark wide boards not worth the eye.
Plumb and level. It is better to check verticals and horizontals using them.
Metal clamps for wooden lining. Of course, galvanized: rusty stains on the walls will not decorate them.

Balcony insulation with polystyrene foam: features of the work).

Drill - screwdriver.
Jigsaw or circular saw.
Rasp. They will have to adjust and process the edges of the lining.
Carpenter's square. There is no point in marking fairly wide boards by eye.
Plumb and level. It is better to check verticals and horizontals using them.
Metal clamps for wooden lining. Of course, galvanized: rusty stains on the walls will not decorate them.

Warming the bath from the inside: how and how to properly insulate the walls with your own hands, diagram, instructions, photos, price and video tutorials

When construction works are nearing completion, the question arises of how best to insulate the bathhouse. The choice of a suitable material and the methods of its installation, the technology for performing insulation are very crucial moments.

How to choose insulation

What is the best way to insulate a bathhouse? For this, natural or synthetic materials are used.

cuckoo flax;
moss red;
flax tow;
hemp hemp
sphagnum.

Kukushkin flax is one of the natural types of insulation

These materials do not require serious material costs, are highly environmentally friendly and will help create a special atmosphere in the bath, filling the interior with natural aromas.

The main disadvantages of organic materials, which must be taken into account when choosing which insulation is better to insulate the bath:

fragility of the material;
significant labor costs;
the need to constantly update the insulation.

It is necessary to provide protection from small rodents, birds and insects.

Many homeowners believe that it is better to insulate a bath with synthetic materials that do not rot and are not damaged by rodents.

Jute felt

What is the best way to insulate a bathhouse from the outside or the inside? Jute felt can be used as inter-crown insulation for a bath. It's organic natural material, for the production of which plant fiber is used.

Flax-jute felt is used not only for thermal insulation, but also for excess moisture from the interior of the bathhouse

To improve performance qualities, flax fiber is added to jute fibers. The result is flax wool or flax jute felt. The form of material release is tape reels. This allows you to select insulation for logs of different diameters.

Flax-jute felt is used not only for thermal insulation, but also to remove excess moisture from the interior of the bathhouse. This is a durable material that will not be damaged by any animals.

Expanded clay as insulation

Expanded clay is a bulk material of natural origin. It is a granule with a porous structure. Expanded clay is often used to insulate baths or other buildings due to the following qualities:

moisture resistance;
relatively small specific gravity;
high strength granules;
resistance of granules to mechanical damage;
durability;
low price.

Floor insulation with expanded clay

Working with expanded clay is easy. Other bulk materials can be used together with it.

Synthetic insulation

Currently, synthetic insulation materials are produced in large quantities and can be of the following types:

extruded polystyrene foam (XPS boards) or regular;
Styrofoam;
mineral wool;
glass wool

Insulating the floor in a bathhouse with foam plastic

Each material has unique properties:

Expanded polystyrene provides reliable thermal insulation. At the same time, the material has low cost and low specific gravity. It should be borne in mind that ordinary polystyrene foam is flammable and easily deformed under the influence of high temperatures. Therefore, in the bath it is used for warming the dressing room, utility rooms, rest rooms. Expanded polystyrene cannot be used in the washing and steam room.
For a bath, it is better to choose XPS boards or extruded polystyrene foam. This material has a sealed cellular structure and a not very large specific gravity. XPS slabs resistant to moisture, compression and high loads. This gives them durability and reliability during operation.
Styrofoam is used for external insulation of a bathhouse built of brick or cinder blocks. It is glued to the external vertical surfaces of the building. Plaster and finishing material are applied on top. Polystyrene foam is highly flammable, so interior decoration It cannot be used in a bathhouse.
The main material for the production of mineral wool is molten rocks or waste from metallurgical production. Therefore, the cost of this insulation is low compared to other similar materials.

Bath insulation with mineral wool

The result is insulation with such positive properties as:

Working with such insulation is easy and convenient. The service life of the material is quite high. Therefore, when deciding how to insulate a bathhouse, you can opt for sheets or mats made of mineral wool.

Insulation with mineral wool allows you to provide the following conditions in the bathhouse:

low thermal conductivity;
high sound insulation;
hydrophobicity.

Glass wool is produced by interweaving fine fibers of inorganic glass

The main thing to remember is that mineral wool is easily subject to mechanical damage. Therefore, when using it, you need to act carefully and carefully.

Glass wool is produced by interweaving fine fibers of inorganic glass. High thermal insulation properties provided due to the large volume of air in the finished material.

The cost of glass wool is low. It is sold in roll and/or tile form. The thickness of glass wool varies, so it is always easy to choose the right option.

Preparatory work

When the insulation is selected, it is necessary to purchase all Additional materials necessary to work with it, prepare the tools. To warm the bath you may need:

construction knife;
roulette;
level;
hammer;
brushes and/or spatulas;
sledgehammer;
construction mixer;
container for mixing solutions;
work clothes, mittens, rags.

When the insulation is selected, it is necessary to purchase all additional materials necessary to work with it and prepare the tools

It is better to make a list of everything you need after it has been determined how best to insulate the walls of the bathhouse, floor or ceiling, and all the necessary materials have been purchased.

How to insulate a bathhouse from the inside

When thinking about the best way to insulate a bathhouse from the inside, you should remember the high level of moisture content in the interior space. Therefore, vapor barrier must be provided. This will preserve the integrity and core beneficial features insulating material. The walls of the room will be less damaged by moisture and high temperatures.

What is the best way to insulate the walls of a bathhouse? Aluminum foil is considered the most convenient vapor barrier for a bath. This material protects the heat insulator from destruction and helps conserve heat in the interior of the bathhouse. After applying the foil, the seams between the sheets must be sealed with special metallized tape.

On a note! Different sections of the bathhouse have different levels of moisture and temperature. Therefore, the decision on the best way to insulate a bathhouse inside depends, first of all, on the specific room.

Various insulation materials are used, and their installation technology is also different.

Walls in the steam room

The walls in the steam room are exposed to high temperature and humidity. Therefore, how best to insulate a steam room in a bathhouse should be considered in detail.

First, the sheathing is attached to the walls. It is best done using dry slats and/or thin timber. The resulting cells should be smooth and the same size. They will be covered with fiberglass.

Insulation with aluminum foil

A heat insulator is laid on top of the fiberglass. Basalt fiber is considered the most reliable for steam rooms. The last layer is a vapor barrier. Aluminum foil is used for this.

When all the work is completed, decorative finishing of the walls is carried out. To do this, you can use lining made of durable types of wood. It should be remembered that if the interior space of the bathhouse is not divided into several rooms, insulation according to the described scheme is carried out everywhere.

Basalt fiber is considered the most reliable for steam rooms.

How to insulate a ceiling

The better way to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse depends on the purpose of the particular room. Hygroscopic material should not be used in the washing room and/or steam room. Can be used as a vapor barrier in a washroom or dressing room plastic film or kraft paper.

On a note! To improve air circulation between the vapor barrier and finishing material it is necessary to leave a ventilation gap (gap) of no more than 2 cm.

This will speed up the drying of the skin after using the bath, otherwise abundant moisture will cause the material to rot, and it will have to be replaced.

How to insulate a floor

Significant heat losses in the bath occur not only through the ceiling and walls, but also through the floor, especially when the bath is used in the cold season - in winter, autumn, early spring.

To figure out how and what is the best way to insulate the floor in a bathhouse, you should remember that the order of laying the floor pie must be strictly observed. The earthen floor must be leveled, cleaned of debris and foreign objects and leveled. You need to pour a concrete screed onto the prepared surface.

A layer of rolled waterproofing material must be laid on the set concrete. This can be roofing felt or plastic film.

Next, the entire surface is covered with a layer of heat insulation. You can use both sheet and linen material. Then roofing felt or polyethylene is re-laid. The final layer is concrete screed.

The laying of all layers of the floor pie must be carried out carefully. It is especially necessary to pay attention to the tightness of each layer - this will preserve the integrity of all materials. Correctly carried out internal insulation will create comfortable conditions for proper use of the bath and keeping warm.

External insulation of a bath

The better to insulate the bath from the outside, depends on the main building material from which the building was erected.

External floor insulation in the bath

For external insulation of a brick bath, mineral wool is most often used. It is best to apply this material in 2 layers, overlapping the seams between the sheets laid earlier. This will prevent cold bridges and help keep you warm.

A block bath is insulated in a similar way. For expanded clay concrete blocks, the outer insulation layer may be slightly thinner.

Wood retains heat well. In this case, the question of what is the best way to insulate the walls of a bathhouse from the outside is a little easier to solve. The basic scheme for applying a layer of thermal insulation depends on the wood building materials used.

Important! If the bathhouse is built from timber, it is necessary to seal the seams of the main frame. To do this, you need to make neat layers of flax jute fiber.

Deciding on the best way to insulate a frame bath requires special attention. The free space between the frame components must be filled with a heat insulator. For this purpose, mineral wool is used, protected on both sides with a waterproofing film.

If a log frame was erected for a bathhouse, only the roof joints need to be insulated. For this, it is optimal to use flax-jute felt or other natural material.

How best to insulate the bath, description of materials and methods, video review

From the article you will learn what natural and synthetic materials exist for thermal insulation of rooms, and how best to insulate a bathhouse from the outside and inside.

Insulating a bathhouse outside and inside is a multifaceted event, characterized by labor intensity and versatility. The main requirement is to strictly comply with technological requirements. The process depends on the main material used to construct the bath. Traditionally these are wooden modules, foam blocks, bricks and frames. No less important criteria are the period of rest inside, as well as the climatic features of the region.

There are many insulation materials on sale. The choice in favor of one solution or another depends on the insulation technology, available resources, financial resources and support from professional builders.

External bath insulation technology

The technology for insulating a bathhouse from the outside depends on the materials from which the object is built - wooden shields, frame elements, log house, cinder blocks, bricks. Each of them has its own strength, heat capacity, and load-bearing capacity. The insulation also differs. Let's take a closer look at each of the wall insulation options.

Insulation of log baths

A bathhouse based on a natural log house is a traditional version of the construction of real Russian baths. A distinctive feature of wood is its high heat capacity, while the diameter of each log can be up to 20 cm, in connection with this it is extremely important to insulate the bath. Main reasons:

Over time, the log house shrinks to a certain extent. Even if the bath is assembled without a single gap, after a few months the situation can change in the most radical way, because. During the shrinkage process, old cracks and new ones open.
The better the insulation of the bath is done outside and inside, the faster it will warm up to the optimum temperature regime(70-80 degrees).
You can purchase a less powerful furnace and also reduce your overall fuel consumption.

« There are many reasons for warming the bath with your own hands, the procedure must be carried out without fail».

Block baths

To date building blocks are the most profitable and affordable building materials that are widely used in modern construction. They are also used for the construction of steam rooms. The insulation of a block bath does not have any radical differences from the insulation of brick buildings.

First of all, the building must be covered with a “fur coat” to ensure optimal temperature conditions in the rooms. Only the steam room requires additional insulation - a small warm “layer” based on mineral wool, a hydrobarrier or insulating foil is enough.

Due to this insulation, it is possible to quickly warm up the interior space and maintain the temperature for a long time. A bathhouse made of blocks is insulated from the inside with wooden clapboard made of aspen or linden. A distinctive feature of the insulation is the minimum thermal conductivity coefficient.

Work technology:

The base of the walls is fixed with lathing made of natural wood, pre-treated with an antiseptic.
The upper part of the waterproofing layer is covered with mineral wool, and their maximum thickness should not exceed 10 cm.
When insulating a bathhouse from blocks, it is necessary to protect the insulation itself; for this, isospan is mainly used.
The material is covered with decorative cladding.

« Note! Insulation of a bathhouse made of gas or cinder block is carried out using a similar technology».

Insulation of a brick bath

The main feature of the brick is that it quickly releases the accumulated heat into the surrounding space, therefore, such a bathhouse will quickly cool down. Such a wall does not have any gaps or cracks, but despite this, the heating process is lengthy. In the context of which, professionals strongly recommend approaching the insulation of a brick bath thoroughly and responsibly.

“Insulation pie” assumes the presence of the following components: insulating material, waterproofing layer and decorative finishing.

Professionals traditionally prefer mineral wool due to its fire resistance, high thermal insulation and strength characteristics. The insulation requires an additional layer of isospan to protect against moisture and precipitation. Practice has proven that this material is capable of perfectly protecting mineral wool from excess moisture and eliminate the risk of fungus formation on its surface. As a result, thermal insulation lasts much longer compared to unprotected material.

And if everything is very clear with the insulation of a brick bathhouse, then the decorative finishing is not limited to any regulations or recommendations. It all depends on the available funds and the client’s own wishes. Siding or lining is quite suitable for this.

It is necessary to screw metal brackets into the base of the wall, maintaining a pitch equal to the width of the insulation material. Experts recommend making a margin of 1-1.5 cm.
Mineral wool is placed in the space between adjacent brackets. Taking into account that the width of the insulation is somewhat larger, it must be pushed in with a certain force, especially in corner areas. Due to this, the plates will be able to be held between the brackets independently.
When insulating a brick bath, the joining areas between adjacent slabs are carefully taped with construction tape.
The top of the insulation is insulated with isospan.
At the final stage, wooden beams are fixed at the brackets, which serve for fastening decorative material and serve as a holding element for the insulation.

Features of insulation of wooden frame-panel baths

main feature frame-panel bath from brick – structural lightness. Heavy insulation is not suitable for it. At the same time, the weight of mineral wool is small. But if you add decorative finishing to it, you can easily get a significant weight, under which the walls will deform.

It is better to insulate frame baths using lightweight polystyrene foam. The advantages of polystyrene foam are obvious - hydrophobicity, heat capacity and durability. To insulate a frame bath made of wood, it is not at all necessary to use an additional frame. Polystyrene foam can be attached to special glue.

As decorative plaster Plastering walls can also be used.

« note! A number of experts recommend insulating frame baths not with foam plastic, but with mineral wool, because foam is subject to deformation and destruction when heated».

Insulation of a bathhouse from the inside

The technology for insulating a bathhouse from the inside is similar to that for log buildings. And if insulating a bathhouse from the outside is a mandatory step in the process of creating a country house, then in the case of the interior there is no clear opinion. Many specialists prefer to treat only the foundation, roof and ceiling area.

Let us dwell in more detail on the features of internal insulation (the technology is similar for brick buildings).

Why is it still worth insulating a log bathhouse from the inside?

The crowns of a wooden bath are distinguished by crowns, the diameter of which is up to 20 cm. If you carry out competent and thorough caulking, then no additional insulation is required, and if it is needed, it is for several reasons:

The crowns of the log house have a small diameter.
Additional insulation of frame baths or their brick counterparts in the foundation area is required.
Additional insulation is required due to the climatic conditions of the region.

As for other cases, it is enough to confine ourselves to a good vapor barrier of the ceiling, roof and floor insulation.

Internal insulation of a brick bath

Note! Using the technology presented below, you can insulate absolutely any bathhouse: from aerated block, foam block, brick or log house. The process is carried out in several stages: insulation of the base, floor, ceiling area and roof structure.

Features of foundation thermal insulation

Depending on the quality and thoroughness of the thermal insulation of the foundation, the final rate of heating of the floor will depend. Without high-quality insulation of a brick bathhouse at the base, there is a possibility that the floor will be quite cold. In this context, the thermal insulation of the base should be approached thoroughly.

First of all, the foundation is insulated with expanded clay. The thickness of this material must be at least two thicknesses bearing walls(if the width of the walls in the bathhouse is 20 cm, then it is better to take expanded clay 40 cm thick). The base base must be protected with mineral wool.

Floor insulation

For thermal insulation of concrete floors, it is necessary to use rigid mats based on mineral wool. If you don’t have one at hand, you can also use polystyrene foam, which forms a reliable “layer” of the screed. But in the steam room, the concrete floor does not require any “warm floor”. You can arrange several wooden gratings. As for the washing area, additional heating is required. Such insulation of a brick bath allows you to significantly increase the comfort of being in the room.

In the process of insulating the walls of a building, the main criterion is the efficiency and quality of the vapor barrier. To do this, you need to use reflective insulation. When installing a vapor barrier, it is extremely important to carry out work in such a way that a small air gap is formed between the waterproofing film and the finishing layer. Experts strongly recommend using a special sheathing that is fixed on top of the “mirror” layer.

INSULATION OF BATH VIDEO

Is it necessary to insulate the bathhouse from the outside? When does insulating a bathhouse from the outside make no sense and when is external wall insulation justified? How to do it? How to properly insulate a brick structure

How to insulate a bathhouse from the outside

Ventilated facade method

Insulation of different types of walls

How to insulate a wooden bathhouse from the outside

Insulation of a frame bath

Insulation of a brick bath

How to insulate a bathhouse ceiling from the outside

Is it necessary to insulate the foundation of a bathhouse from the outside?

How to insulate the foundation of a bathhouse from the outside with your own hands

Insulating a bathhouse from the outside with your own hands

Surface Requirements

Tools

Installation

Conclusion

External insulation of log baths

Thermal insulation of baths made of timber

Thermal protection of brick baths

Exterior design of block baths

Thermal insulation of load-bearing structures

Exterior wall decoration with polymer panels

Frame facade

Roof insulation

Interior decoration

We insulate the floor

Finishing the walls

Minimizing losses through the ceiling

Conclusion

Features of external bath insulation technology

Insulation of a wooden bathhouse from the outside

How to insulate a brick bathhouse from the outside?

Features of insulating a frame bath from the outside

Features and technology of bathhouse foundation insulation

Features of insulating bath walls from the inside

Thermal insulation of the bathhouse from the inside and outside

Materials for bath insulation

External insulation

Internal thermal insulation

Insulation of a bathhouse from the inside: thermal insulation of concrete, stone, brick structures

Floor, doors and windows

Walls and ceiling

How to choose insulation

Preparatory work

How to insulate a bathhouse from the inside

Walls in the steam room

How to insulate a ceiling

How to insulate a floor

External insulation of a bath

External bath insulation technology

Insulation of log baths

Block baths

Insulation of a brick bath

Features of insulation of wooden frame-panel baths

Insulation of a bathhouse from the inside

Why is it still worth insulating a log bathhouse from the inside?

Internal insulation of a brick bath

Features of foundation thermal insulation

Floor insulation

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