It is difficult to imagine life without taking a hot bath. Water procedures invigorate and at the same time relax the human body. If the bath installed in your house / apartment has already served its time, then, of course, it will have to be replaced. Bathtubs made of steel are in the greatest demand today. In this article, you will learn about the installation steel bath with their own hands is quite within the power of everyone.
Due to its massiveness, a cast-iron bath will stand securely, no matter how you install it. You can't say that about steel bath. When installing it, it is important to make sure that it adjoins the walls on three sides. In this case, it will stand securely, and carry out in it water procedures will be safe.
Adjustable feet
When buying a bathtub, adjustable supports are included in the package. There are several types of supports, the safest support with a self-adhesive pad. This is especially true in cases where the manufacturer has provided fasteners on the tie bolts. When tightened or loaded at the attachment points, the enamel may peel off. Just for this purpose, a self-adhesive overlay is intended, which levels the load. In their form, the supports resemble a channel. They have adjustment screws with plastic tips.
The best fasteners are those with short supports and long bolts.
Installation of a bathtub on bricks
Due to its low weight, the steel bath is unstable. Therefore, it is necessary to take care of the manufacture of additional support. The ideal option there will be a brick frame. In the future, this support will be tiled, so it will not spoil appearance the bathroom as a whole. When laying out the bricks, it is necessary to leave a window through which it will be possible to clean or replace the siphon. In this window it will be necessary to install a decorative door.
You can install a steel bathtub without much effort. The process itself is quite simple and does not require special knowledge in construction. For you to succeed, closely adhere to the guidance outlined in this article.
The first step is to prepare a place for installation. At this stage, there should be outlets for water and sewer pipes. should be carried out close to the wall.
Next, carry out the fastening of the supports. To do this, turn the bath upside down. Under it, you need to put soft material or packing cardboard. The first support is fixed as close as possible to the outlet. The other support is located as close as possible to the opposite end of the tub. However, it should not be shifted from flat surface bottom. To prevent displacement, it is necessary to straighten the carrier channel. But do it not in the bath, but on the side.
If the supports of the bathtub you purchased have a self-adhesive surface, then it is recommended to treat the gluing place with alcohol or acetone. The mounting plate must be firmly pressed against the bottom surface. As a result, the support will hold very securely.
If you want to eliminate protective film from the surface of the bath, use a hair dryer for this. After warming up the film a little, it can be easily removed and no residues will remain on the surface of the product.
Threaded adjusting studs should be hammered into the plastic tip until they stop. This must be done very carefully so as not to damage the thread. Next, take the nuts that come with the supports, and screw them onto the stud. After that, lower the nuts to the tip and screw the studs so that they fall into place in the supports.
If your bathroom is narrow, then the supports should be assembled directly in it. When transferring the bath, hold on to its edges, but in no case by the legs.
Having installed the bath on supports, it remains to align it in height and level. To do this, you can use the building level, which you lay on the side of the bath. Do not put the level on the bottom, as it is initially filled so that there is a sufficient flow of water into the sewer. At the end of the installation, there may be a small gap between the wall and the bathtub. It should be sealed with sealant or foam. If you installed the bath on a pre-laid brick frame, then you just have to lay the tiles. If you have not resorted to such technology, then you can mount protective screen. Given this, you can use a different technology for installing a bath. Screw metal hooks into the wall. Do all your measurements first. In the end, it remains just to put the bath on the hooks. With this technology, make sure that the legs are firmly on the floor.
It is also necessary to install drain siphon. The scheme of its assembly is offered by the manufacturer. It remains for you to assemble the siphon design with the help of union nuts. On request, soundproofing and insulation of the bath is performed. For this, the usual polyurethane foam. Apply it to the bottom and side outer walls. Depending on the size of the tub, you will need 4-5 bottles of foam.
To all of the above, it is worth adding a few nuances that must be considered during installation. The first nuance concerns the installation height. There are no special standards here. However, the choice of height will depend on the installation method you choose. If you use factory supports and want to install a screen, then there are two standards: the height from the floor to the edge of the bath is 55 cm or 65 cm. Remember that the steel bath is covered with an enameled layer of paint. And if carelessly handled with it, then it can be harmed. So don't rush to install.
So, you have learned how to install a steel bath with your own hands. As you can see, the process is quite simple. You are required to have a desire, and in the course of work you will deal with all the questions that arise. If you have experience installing steel bathtubs, then write comments at the end of this article.
Video
Learn more about steel bath installation from the provided video:
Photo
From the photos provided, you can clearly see the intricacies of installing a steel bath with your own hands:
The bathroom is the face of every home, the appearance of which speaks of the wealth, economy and style of the homeowners. The central place in the bathroom is occupied by a bath, which is used for taking hygiene procedures or washing. The selection and installation of a washing container is the most important stage of repair in this room. To save money on calling a professional craftsman, you can install the tank yourself. In this article, we will tell you how to fix the bath so that it does not swing, but stands steadily.
Bath selection
A bathroom is a large-capacity sanitary container that is used for washing, washing and other household needs. Some time ago, they tried to replace this device with showers, however, they were defeated due to their lesser functionality. Bathtubs are made from such materials to support the weight of water and the person using it, so that it retains heat for a long time, and retains its appearance and tightness when in contact with water.
They produce 3 types of sanitary containers:
- Cast iron. Cast iron bath classic version, perfectly retains heat and has high strength. The disadvantage of cast iron models is their high weight, a bath made of this metal weighs 80-150 kg. High weight complicates transportation and installation. In addition, cast iron containers have a high price and a limited set of standard shapes and sizes.
Note! In order for the bathtub to stand level and not sway after installation, it is necessary to choose the right size of the container. The length of the bathtub should correspond to the distance between the walls minus 3-5 cm. When deciding which bathtub to choose, give preference to models that are as close as possible to the calculated dimensions so that after installation is completed there are no gaps between it and the walls through which water penetrates. Right choice the size of the container will greatly facilitate the attachment of the bath to the wall and floor of the room.
Mounting Features
The question of how to fix the bath so that it does not play or sway worries most homeowners if they do their own bathroom renovation. The process of installing a sanitary washing container has its own nuances and tricks, but you can cope with this task on your own, taking into account the features of fastening various kinds baths:
- The most difficult moment of installing a cast-iron bath is to bring this container weighing more than 100 kg into the room and install it on the floor. For installation, 4 supports are required, which are supplied with the selected model. Cast iron bath is installed on the bathroom floor with the help of legs fixed to the bottom of the tank with special wedges or bolts. To distribute the load from the weight of the bathroom, a metal sheet is laid on the floor.
Important! In the process of repairing the bathroom, the bathtub is installed in place only after finishing the floor ceramic tiles. To provide access to the floor under the bathroom, the container is lifted and then placed on bricks or wooden blocks.
Installation rules
When purchasing a bath, be sure to pay attention to the mounting system with which it is completed. After purchasing a sanitary container, carefully read the instructions, familiarize yourself with the installation method recommended by the manufacturer for this model.
In most cases, the bathroom installation process is as follows:
- Before fixing the steel bath, it is necessary to prepare the site for installation. If ceramic tiles are used as a finish, then it is necessary to lay the tiles on the floor and walls where the container is located.
- The bath is turned over on its side, and then carefully placed on the floor, since in this position it is much more convenient to connect the drain and overflow pipe.
- Without changing the position of the sanitary container, the floor siphon is connected to plastic pipes using sealant or sealant.
- The legs are screwed or glued to the bottom of the bathroom, adjusting the supports in height.
- The bath is placed in such a way that the siphon can be connected to the sewer system.
- If necessary, a podium of bricks or other moisture-resistant materials is built under the bottom of the bathroom. Make a frame in order to hide the pipes behind decorative screen.
- Lastly, you need to hermetically seal the joints between the walls and the sanitary container using a sealant, a moisture-resistant solution or a plastic corner.
After the installation is completed, experienced craftsmen check the quality and reliability of fastening. To do this, the sanitary container is completely filled with water in order to check whether the drain works correctly, does not swing or flow.
Video instruction
Old-style cast iron baths are quite difficult to budge. But modern steel and acrylic models, due to their low weight, are rather unstable. If installed incorrectly, they will wobble with use or move with the slightest push, spoiling the finish of walls and floors. Let's talk about how to fix the bath - steel or acrylic - to avoid such troubles.
Choose the right plumbing
The stability of the bath depends not only on the procedure for its installation, but also on the dimensions of the bowl of this plumbing. In order for the bath to stand securely, its dimensions must correspond to the distance between the walls at the installation site, minus 2.5–3 centimeters on each side. Under such conditions, the bowl will be easier to fix to the walls and floor. In addition, in this case there will be no gap between the bathtub and the walls, into which water will inevitably enter during use.
Features of the device of steel baths
Among all types of bathtubs, steel models are the most difficult to install motionless. This is due to two features of their design:
- low weight of the bowl;
- lack of mounts for legs.
On cast iron and acrylic models, special fasteners are usually located on the outside of the bowl, to which the legs can be securely screwed. Manufacturers of steel baths have abandoned these details. Because steel is pretty soft material, there is a high risk that when using the bath, under the weight of the water collected in it, plus the body immersed in it, it can bend. In this case, the fasteners will inevitably damage the enamel coating of the bowl.
Read: what wallpaper can be glued in the bathroom.
Legs for steel plumbing are usually a kind of goats or props. The tub is supposed to just rest on them. Some models of legs can be supplemented with an adhesive layer for a more secure fixation with the bottom of the bowl. But that doesn't improve the situation much. Therefore, it is recommended to use more reliable structural elements in addition to the legs.
How to fix a steel bath so that it does not swing
There are several ways to install a steel bath in a stable position. Most often, it is recommended to make a brick stand under the plumbing bowl. But this option is not suitable for everyone. First, executing brickwork requires certain skills and abilities. Not every homeowner will be able to build a reliable stand with their own hands. And in this case, rather high requirements are imposed on the quality of the masonry, since moisture and serious weight will constantly affect it.
Secondly, in many houses, especially those belonging to the old fund, interfloor ceilings may simply not withstand the weight of the brick substrate. As a result, installing a bathtub can turn into a utility accident for you and the neighbors downstairs. Plus, not everyone wants to wait a few days until the masonry mortar dries and acquires the strength necessary for installing plumbing. Therefore, it is better to use more simple options fixing the bath.
Tip: if you still want to install a steel bath on a stand, make it not from brick, but from a gas block. This material weighs much less, and it is more convenient to mount it.
The simplest and most reliable ways to install a steel bath include:
- fastening to walls on metal corners;
- installation on a frame made of a metal profile;
- use of special fasteners.
Where does the installation of the bath begin
Whatever installation method you choose, remember the main thing - the installation of the bath begins with a fitting. First, the bowl is placed in the right place on the legs, its position is leveled and connected to the water supply and sewerage. After that, you should check the performance of the product and especially the quality of the water drain. As you know, the bath should be at a slight angle: only in this case the drain will work correctly.
Having found out the optimal angle of inclination of the bowl by adjusting its height, mark the position of the sides on the wall. According to these marks, in the future you will install fasteners for the bath: steel or acrylic. After marking, disconnect the plumbing device from communications and take it out of the room.
Important! The final installation of a steel bath, regardless of the methods of its fastening, should be carried out after the floor of the room is completely finished with tiles or other material.
Mounting the steel bowl on the corners
A fairly reliable option for attaching a bathtub is to, in addition to the legs, rest it with its sides on wide metal corners screwed to the walls. This method is suitable for you if the walls of the room are made of sufficiently durable material and were leveled with plaster or tile adhesive. TO drywall constructions it is better not to fix the bath: they will not withstand such a weight.
Important! Installation of corners should be done after the finishing of the walls of the room is completed.
You can hang the corners only on two walls, which will then rest against the short edges of the bowl, or on all three vertical surfaces with which it will come into contact. In order not to damage the finish, first use a special drill to make holes for fasteners in the tile. After that, you can drill through them directly into the wall, using, depending on its material, a drill with a victorious solder or a puncher.
The place of attachment of the corners should be determined by pre-made marks. At the same time, keep in mind that the bath will rest on them with sides, but part of its weight should also fall on the legs. Don't forget to adjust for the thickness of the corner.
We advise you to learn about the features of toilets with a vertical outlet to the floor.
Installing the bathtub on the frame
If you plan to cover the space under the bowl with a decorative screen, The best way how to strengthen a steel bath so that it does not stagger is to put it on a metal frame. The structure is made of UD and CD wall profiles. The first is fixed to the floor with dowels as a base for the frame. From the second, the upper frame and supports for it are assembled. You can also make a welded support structure from:
- metal corner;
- steel pipes of suitable diameter.
Important! The size of the frame is selected in such a way that the profile of the upper frame fits snugly against the walls of the bowl, while the bath itself stands firmly on its legs.
Corner posts from the profile are fastened to the upper and lower frame, and also, for greater reliability, are attached to the walls of the room. The erection of the frame should be carried out after finishing the walls, or at least after tiling the part that will be located above the bowl. Upon completion of installation, the frame can be sheathed plastic panels or drywall, which is then tiled.
Important! When sheathing, do not forget to leave an inspection hatch for access to communications located under the bathroom.
Using special fasteners
If the bath bowl rests firmly enough on the legs, you can restrict yourself to fixing it to the wall using special fasteners. They are sold in a wide variety in construction and plumbing supermarkets. This operation should be carried out before finishing walls. In the future, the fastener is hidden under tiles, which contributes not only to improving the aesthetics of the room, but also to increasing the reliability of fastening.
Reliable ways to attach the bath to the wall
The bath kit for sale includes legs or a more or less complex frame designed for its reliable installation on the base. The design of any manufacturer is designed so that stability is not lost under the most unfavorable combination of loads - in the form of a full volume of water and a person - sitting, standing on the bottom or climbing over the side.
With the advent of steel, and later - acrylic baths, many users of such plumbing equipment began to have doubts about the sufficient stability of a light structure. People reacted simply - instead of regular legs or frame supporting structure they began to erect a brick bed or several supports, on which they installed the body of the bath of any shape. There was a need to fix a light bath to the wall.
Bath stability
The stability of the bathtub in the vertical direction does not cause any doubts with any design of regular legs - all of them will withstand the weight of water and this is felt by users. Understandable concerns are caused only by the stability of the body in the horizontal direction - in fact, light steel and acrylic bathtubs can be unbalanced in this direction.
One of the typical products is a bracket adapted for fixing the bathtub to the wall. It can be seen how reliably the hooking of the curved edge of the acrylic bathtub edge to this bracket is ensured.
User concerns are not unfounded. Even the smallest degree of freedom of movement in any direction is dangerous by violating the integrity of the sewer connection. In some cases - a violation of the tightness of the sealing of the junction of the housing to the wall.
That is why, in order to ensure complete stability, it is necessary to ensure that the bathtub is fixed to the wall. In this case, the possibility of horizontal oscillations disappears. The bath becomes completely stable regardless of the efforts applied to it.
Fixing the bath body to the walls
In the bathroom, the bath can be located in four planning positions:
- Island position - in the middle of the room.
- Near one wall.
- In a corner, in contact with two walls.
- In a niche, close to the walls on three sides.
It is important to fasten to the wall when placing the bathtub with only one side to the wall, sometimes in an angular position. The case, pinched on three sides, is completely unshakable.
The only technical possibility to strengthen the bath to the wall is based on the fact that its sides of any design have a downward bend. For this bend and you need to keep the bath from shifting. The complexity of this operation lies in the fact that the natural place where you need to fix the board to the wall is not available - it is closed by the body.
Any way to fix the bath to vertical plane consists in pre-installing on this plane such fasteners that will enter into reliable engagement with the side bent down - when this side is lowered into place.
As such fasteners, you can use branded factory-made brackets, with the possibility of adjustment and rubber gaskets. Home master can install a home-made profile from a steel corner - such a mount can be much more reliable than a branded one. You can even use L-shaped dowel fasteners. Rubber gaskets can be made independently - the mount will be more reliable.
The height of the bathtub from the floor, the standard for this parameter also exists - read about it in our material.
About how to choose and install hot tub can be read in this article.
Wall mount technology
Any fastener should provide several important conditions for reliable and durable operation:
- strong retention in the wall;
- the main upwardly bent retaining element of the fastener should have a slight downward approach to the wall. This is necessary so that the side of the bath, put on such fasteners, falling down during installation, is pressed against the wall;
- high accuracy of marking and installation of all components of such a system must be ensured.
After determining the level of the lower edge of the bath rim, it is marked on the wall with a line. Fasteners - brackets, dowels or a corner must be fixed so that the side of the bath engages with them and the canvas is pressed against the wall. It is necessary to attach the side so that it cannot be moved by hand with the strongest impact.
Here is an approximate sequence of steps for installing a bath with fixing it to the wall:
- You must first completely assemble the entire structure of the bathtub including the legs and the support frame. The adjusting screws of the legs must be placed in the middle position.
- According to the assembled bathtub, the level of the rim on the wall is marked and the selected fasteners are installed. Before such a markup, you need to put the bath in place and find out the features of its horizontal adjustment.
- The bath complex with the supporting part is carefully lowered from top to bottom so that the rim engages with the fasteners.
- Adjusting screws finally level the body of the bath.
When the bath has taken its position, you can connect engineering networks, and after that - lay out brick supports that will ensure the complete inviolability of this structure.
The difficulty of arranging brick supports when installed bath it is compensated by the fact that the master will not be able to arrange these supports where it will interfere with the connection of the bath - all connections have already been made and are in plain sight. Brick supports are not brought up to the bath body by 10-20 m and this gap is filled with mounting foam, having previously collected water in the bath.
However, you can fix the bath in another sequence of actions. The main thing is to make sure that the invisible downward edge of the bathtub rim is securely hooked with fasteners.
The practice of installing bathtubs has shown that homemade devices fasteners and supports made of brick, concrete, custom steel structures most often outperform standard structures of the most famous manufacturers in reliability. Thoughtful rationalizations of this type make it possible to consider the bath absolutely reliable, not worry about its stability and even operate it in any mode.
How to strengthen the bath so as not to stagger
- 1 Methods for attaching bathtubs
- 2 Mounting foam
- 3 Application of a brick frame
- 4 Installation on a metal frame
- 5 Inserting a bathtub into a niche
- 6 Videos
When carrying out repairs in an apartment with a complete replacement of plumbing, its owners quite often have to deal with the problem of securely fixing the equipment installed in the bathroom. This is especially true for the work procedures for installing a new bathroom, the installation specifics of which are determined by many factors, including the material of the product and its texture. So, a traditional cast-iron bathtub, which is distinguished by a significant weight, is best installed according to a long-established technique, which assumes its reliable support on the legs included in the kit and adjustable in height.
For lighter acrylic bathtubs, for example, an additional mount will be required to ensure its secure fixation and even distribution of loads throughout the body. In our article, we will consider in detail the features of the installation of each of the samples of this sanitary ware.
Bath fixing methods
Steel bath legs
To everyone who wants to figure out how to strengthen the bath so that it does not stagger - we advise, first of all, to decide on the material from which it is made, since this is largely the determining method of its installation.
When choosing a product, most often you have to deal with the following options:
For each of the samples of these products, a special, only for him suitable way fastening, taking into account the features of the relief of the walls of the bathroom itself.
Acrylic bath legs
Cast iron bathtubs have sufficient stability due to their considerable mass, so that their installation is permissible anywhere in the room. Typically, these bathtubs are installed on standard legs that are included in the delivery of the product and are securely fixed to its body using special steel wedges or bolts. As an additional fastener, a pre-laid brick base or corners fixed to the wall can be used (in the case of a brick base, its body may not be located close to the walls).
A steel bath is best placed on several points of support, so that it should be located directly against the wall. Since the legs included in its kit do not provide the required reliability of fixation, a special brick podium is often used to increase the stability of the product.
To fix the steel bath, the following techniques can be used:
- the use of mounting foam, which seals the junction with the wall and at the same time strengthens the contact zone;
- installation on special walls metal profiles providing additional support;
- and, finally, the usual tie-in to the wall.
For secure fastening and ensuring even distribution of loads acrylic bath it is best to install on the same brick podium or use a special metal frame for this purpose.
Let's consider each of the methods of fixing bathtubs discussed in this chapter in more detail.
Mounting foam
With mounting foam
Using mounting foam to fix the bathtub is the simplest and most affordable method of simultaneously fixing it to the floor and walls. When implementing this method, the bathroom product is first set in place and in height using adjustable legs so that there is a gap of about 0.75–1.5 cm near the walls, and then it is filled to the brim with water.
After that, it will be possible to start sealing the gaps between the body of the bathtub and the adjacent walls of the room, as well as between its legs and the floor using mounting foam.
Sealing foam tends to expand when it dries, so its use must be strictly dosed. Otherwise, undesirable deformations of the structure are possible, reducing the reliability of its fixation. Despite the fact that the “setting” time of the mounting foam is about 12–35 hours, it will be possible to start wall finishing work after about 6 hours.
The use of a brick frame
With a brick frame
The brick frame is most often used in cases where you decide to fix the bath without the help of legs and ensure even distribution of loads around the entire perimeter of the support. With this installation method, it is possible to lay out the frame both along the bathroom and across it.
In the case of a transverse arrangement, the bath should rest directly on the brick, which will require additional fastening of the frame to the walls using metal corners (steel or aluminum). At the same time, pre-prepared corners are fixed with dowels on the wall in such a way that the free edges of the bath have additional support, and it does not sway when pressed.
Installing a bathtub on bricks
With longitudinal laying, something like a trough is formed, into which the mounted bathroom product is placed. The gap or cavity formed between the walls of such a base and the bath itself must be sealed with mounting foam, which also helps to increase the reliability of its fastening. In the case of laying out the front wall to the very top, it is possible to completely hide the body of the bath, thus preparing the base for subsequent tiling with ceramic tiles.
brick screen
When performing these works, it is imperative to provide a small inspection hole necessary to provide access to the siphon. When finishing, this hole can be closed with a piece of drywall or by installing a small plastic door. In the event that you plan to finish the walls with ceramic tiles, a ready-made screen can be used as the front panel of such a base.
Installation on a metal frame
The specified method of fixing bathtubs is mainly used during installation. acrylic products, in the kit of which, as a rule, a ready-made steel frame is already provided (in its absence, this accessory can always be purchased separately or made independently). During the installation of such a bath, the installation or guide rails of the frame are first attached to its bottom with the help of self-tapping screws (note that they are fastened in places specially designated for this purpose, which have thickenings). And then, on the guides fixed in this way, the included legs are installed by means of a bolted connection.
Additional support
After fixing the legs, the bath will need to be put in place and the points of contact with the walls of the room should be marked, after which special strips are mounted at these points, providing additional support.
It is necessary to leave a small gap between the bar and the side (no more than 2–4 mm), taking into account the expansion of the bath after filling it with water.
Niche recessed bathtub
Insert into a niche
In small apartments, a situation often arises when the bathtub is placed with great difficulty in the place allotted for it, which, on the one hand, significantly complicates its installation, and on the other hand, provides the possibility of rigid and reliable fixation in the bathroom niche.
For tie-in and rigid fastening of the bath, you will need to prepare grooves in the wall according to the thickness of the edge of the product on each of its sides (for these purposes, you can use a perforator or grinder). The edges or lapels of the bathtub should be inserted into the grooves prepared with their help with a slight “interference”, which guarantees maximum fastening rigidity due to the complete absence of play.
In case of insufficient rigidity of the legs supplied in the kit, you can additionally strengthen the fastening of the bathtub by using special transverse profiles that serve as supports for its lapels.
Video
How to install a bath in a strobe, see below:
steel tubs are still popular with consumers.
First of all, due to its durability. But in order for the font to serve you faithfully for many years, it must be installed correctly.
Therefore, we have created the most detailed instructions installation of a steel bath. Where collected all the advice of experts. It will save you from installation errors. And it will also show how you can convert it into virtues.
Have you chosen a bath yet? If so, you can start preparing the room for its installation.
If the font has not yet been purchased, be sure to check out ours. This will help you avoid further problems with operation and installation, as well as allow you to purchase a really high-quality model.There are three types of hot tub installation:
- tiled bathroom;
- to bare walls, followed by laying them out with tiles;
- to walls tiled to the planned installation level of the bath.
Let's figure out which and when is better to use.
First way convenient if you bought a high-quality massive steel bath, which does not require additional fastening to the walls. Everything is simple and fast here - the font is put on its legs and moves up to the wall. It is only important not to forget about the sealing of the joint.
Second way will allow you to make high-quality stops on the walls, without violating the integrity of the tile. Plus, it will be much easier to seal the joint, since the tiles will be laid out from the side. Therefore, water will definitely not get behind it. The disadvantages of this option include the fact that laying tiles will not be very convenient and quite dangerous for covering the bath.
If you decide to clad the walls after installing the font, in no case do not remove the factory film from the bowl. Better yet, line the bottom and sides of the tub with cardboard. This will keep the enamel coating intact.And finally third way- the most, in our opinion, optimal, but also the most difficult. After all, it is very important to accurately measure everything, so that the font would clearly fall in height into the untiled space. With this option, you will not damage either the tile or the coating of the bowl.
Decided on the options. Now you need to clean up the room well and prepare the tool. More on that below.
Tools
First you need to prepare the tools. For comfortable work you will need:
- level- to set the horizon line;
- roulette;
- construction marker- to perform markup;
- set of wrenches- to adjust the legs;
- corner— for inspection of right angles;
- perforator- for drilling holes in the wall;
- screwdriver or screwdriver.
Step-by-step instructions for installing a metal font
Thermal and sound insulation
Despite everything, they have their drawbacks: high thermal conductivity (water cools down very quickly) and poor sound insulation (the sound of a filling bath can be heard even by neighbors). But both of these problems are fairly easy to deal with. , with which you can cover the walls and bottom of the steel bowl in order to improve its characteristics.
Especially for you, we have written detailed instructions, about and.How to assemble and install the legs with your own hands?
After completing the insulation work, you can begin to install the legs. They are:
- universal- as a rule, such legs come with the cheapest models and are simply attached to an adhesive base;
- bolted- such models are more solid, connected to the bottom with the help of special bolts. Exist different variants their execution, but the principle of installation is the same for everyone.
STEP 1. A bolt is inserted into a special mounting place at the bottom of the bowl.
STEP 2. Then a support frame is mounted on it. The structure is fastened with a nut. To reduce the load on the bowl, it is important not to forget to lay rubber gaskets between the bottom and the legs.
STEP 3. After that, you need to screw the legs themselves to the frame. It's not worth pulling them too hard. Since the bath will still need to be adjusted in level.
STEP 4. It remains only to put on plastic pads to reduce the pressure of the legs on the floor.
Drain overflow
Drain-overflow is better to collect at the stage when the bath is still on the floor - it will be more convenient. You can do this according to the standard instructions:
- gaskets are inserted into the elements (10), (7 - siphon), (4), and then they are connected to each other with plastic nuts (8);
- gaskets (18), (15) are inserted into the corresponding elements of the overflow (17), (14), which are fastened with nuts;
- the collected drains and overflows are applied to the holes on the bath, and bolted to the grates.
Level control
After installing all the elements, you can turn the font on its legs and put it in the place of future deployment. Next, you need to set it exactly with building level. Lay the level alternately on each side of the bath, twisting the corresponding legs. After all the boards are set, you can proceed to the next step.
If the length of the legs is not enough to achieve the required height and the question arose of how to lengthen them, everything is simple. You can put bricks under them, after fixing them to the floor with mortar.
Additional supports, how to fix it to the wall, so that it does not swing?
As mentioned above, a high-quality steel bathtub with walls from 3 mm thick does not need additional supports, and it is not at all necessary to fix it to the wall. But if the font is not the most expensive or you want to make sure that it will stagger -. Or screw additional supports for the sides to the wall. Let's figure out how best to do it.
STEP 1. First you need to measure the distance from the floor to the lower edge of the bathtub edge (distance "A"). Then you need to move the bath away and set aside this distance from the floor with a tape measure, drawing a line along the entire perimeter.
STEP 2. As an additional support, you can use a high-quality galvanized profile, steel corners or wooden beam treated with special moisture resistant impregnation. With the help of dowel nails, it is necessary to fasten them to the wall along the line that we drew in the last step. They will take some of the load off the legs. The sides of the bath will rest on them.
Grounding the iron bowl
Next milestone is the grounding of the bowl. Metal baths must be grounded because steel is an excellent conductor. And in the case of a phase hit, for example, on metal pipe- the result can be disastrous.
On bathtubs, as a rule, there is a special grounding bolt with a special designation. It must be connected to the nearest point of the ground loop using a copper wire. As a rule, in a dignity. The outlet node always has a grounding conductor, so you can connect the ground wire to it.
Sealing
The final step is to seal the junction of the wall and tiles.
You can close the seam between the iron bath and the tile using silicone sealant. It must be applied along the entire perimeter of the contact of the board with the wall.
Then moisten it with a spray bottle and remove the excess with your finger or a special spatula.
If they are additionally moistened, the work will be done even more accurately.
Screen
For what a dignity. the node looked more aesthetically pleasing, it is better to close the space under the bathroom with a screen. You can make a blank screen of tiles. But in order for the space under the bathroom to be used effectively, a screen with sliding doors is best suited.
Useful videos
Assembly of legs
Installation
conclusions
As you understood from the article. It is quite possible to install a metal bath with your own hands. All you need is tools and a little perseverance. We hope our article was useful to you. On our site you can find other interesting materials.
For many, comfort in the bathroom is associated with a quality bath. One of the best in terms of quality is considered to be a metal product. How to install a metal bath yourself, placement options, the principle of work will be considered additionally.
Features of steel baths
Mounting the installation of a metal bath is largely related to the features of its characteristics. You can find these plumbing fixtures on a leg, in boxes and other mounting methods.
Modern models of their metal have a number of features:
- Now glass-forming raw materials are included in the composition;
- The surface does not crack;
- Not afraid of deformation;
- Not afraid of alkali, acids;
- Retains color;
- Wide choice of forms;
- Budget price.
Models made of steel are distinguished by an exquisite design, and their service life will be much higher than acrylic ones. Of course, the water in such a product will lose temperature much faster, when typing it, it has a rather strong sound, it requires grounding. Applying a layer of mounting foam will help to cope with such a problem.
Any type of product must be reliably, safely mounted in accordance with all the rules.
Steel bath installation options
Unlike cast iron bathtubs, the model requires a secure fit. Features of the installation of a steel bath are associated with the specifics of the material. The disadvantages of steel baths can also be eliminated at the installation stage.
The first distinguishing feature of this type is the need for installation before the bathroom finishing process. In this case, it becomes possible to give the surface of the support a rather interesting look.
Most often it is customary to install bathtubs between three walls. This method will allow you to securely fix the product. The distance required for installation should be equal to the dimensions of the product, plus a few centimeters from above.
There are several ways to install a bathtub correctly:
- On legs;
- In the middle of the room;
- In the corner;
- On the podium.
The height of the bath and installation will depend on the drain, the convenience of connecting the siphon to the sewer, and a number of other features. Installation is carried out to pre-prepared, bare walls. Prepare mounting foam, which is sure to come in handy in the process.
Each method has its own advantages and disadvantages that need to be explored.
On stock legs
When choosing a fixture, pay attention to the quality of the legs that are necessary for installation. Very often they are completely unusable. The installation process must be carried out in stages:
- Place the product near the installation site with the bottom up;
- Install a siphon;
- Prepare legs;
- Put in place, connect to the drain.
legs modern baths extremely rarely distinguished by reliability, most often they have a purely decorative function. In addition, due to the lightness of the material, this model has an increased risk of overturning. Therefore, it is desirable to provide additional fasteners.
To the corner of the room
If it is customary to install the device in the corner of the room, the support will be only on two sides. With this method, you will need to resort to additional creation of a support.
The process consists of the following steps:
- You need a corner. Make five holes half a centimeter;
- Fix the corner to the wall;
- Fill all irregularities with sealant;
- Install the bathtub between the walls and the corner with precise support.
A steel bathtub is quite light. Its stability can only be ensured by reliable fasteners.
Between the walls
With this arrangement, it is desirable to install corners on both sides of the product. In this way, maximum security is achieved. As a rule, the dimensions of the distances between the walls coincide with the standards for the dimensions of bathtubs. In this case, three walls are an additional point of support, which is very important for light models. Moreover, it turns out even some extra comfort. The third wall can even be made of drywall, a niche.
In the middle of the room
With this option, it is necessary to manufacture a special case that will be responsible for reliability. In this option, the use of legs is completely optional, since the frame made of brick or other dense material will take on the load.
This is one of the most popular methods due to its high reliability. In addition, in this case, access to communications is not always convenient, which is also important to consider.
Fabrication for steel bath podium
very effective, reliable method installation involves the manufacture of a podium. Such a design may differ in the method of production, the material from which it will be made.
According to the method, monolithic and frame type. The step that supports the product is the first type. The second type is hollow inside, all communications are hidden in it, the necessary things are stored.
The podium can be made of drywall, brick, blocks. Each material has a number of features.
Making a metal frame
A high-quality metal frame is quite easy to make on your own. To do this, you need a metal profile, which is connected with bolts. Can be welded. The edges need to be processed so that they are not sharp. It is better to additionally make a brick platform below. The frame is attached to the walls, the joints are treated with sealant to avoid leakage.
The method is suitable for this lightweight and durable material. Such fasteners may not save a bathtub made of cast iron, and even damage acrylic.
A successful material for the work of foam blocks. They are quite light and durable. It is important to pay attention to the joints, since the material absorbs moisture and can become a site for the formation of fungus.
Making a podium from a wooden beam
Wood is often used to make a podium. It is customary to install a sheet of plywood on the logs. To prevent hum, install cork strips under the logs. It is desirable to use free space as a place to store things.
Methods for fixing a steel bath
After the bath was prepared, the legs were installed, turned towards the drain, we proceed to the fastening.
One of simple methods- the use of mounting foam. The product is exposed, regulated on height, is partially filled with water. Foam is poured into the gap from the wall to the device. It is advisable to let it dry during the day.
The brick framework allows to make installation more reliable, safe. It can be combined with legs. Can be fully bricked up. Combination of legs with metal frame gives a good result.
A very reliable method of tapping into a niche. In this case, the device will have to be placed in special grooves.
When installed, maintain a slight level of inclination to facilitate the passage of water.
Brick base for steel bath
There should be no gaps between the wall and the base of the bath. If this is not done, mold and fungus will soon form.
For steel bathrooms, brick bases are most often installed. The rear rack should have a height of nineteen centimeters, the front seventeen. Such a move will increase reliability.
Installation of a steel bath on brick supports
Before installing on a brick, you need to put gaskets. You need to adjust the correct installation using a level. This should be done without haste, at least together. It is important to check for stability. If the indicators are not reliable enough, it is worth making an additional mount to the wall.
Fixing a steel bath to metal corners
This method is quite reliable. Corners may be included or purchased separately. Using self-tapping screws in special places, the strips need to be attached. You can set corners along the walls, place the sides on it. Seal all joints with sealant.
Fixing the bathtub to the wall
You can fix it to the wall with a bracket. Another option is to provide adhesion to the wall before installation. When placing the bath, it must connect to the board. It can be corners or staples. You can use brick supports, sealant for this.
Bath cladding around the perimeter with brick
The most reliable method of installation is brick cladding. At such a moment, you first need to install the product, then carry out the masonry. After drying, the decoration is made based on the wishes. It is important to leave a window, an opening, access to communications under the bathroom. For cladding, the brick is reduced in thickness by half. It is necessary to leave a place for laying tiles, access to the siphon.
Installation on an additional wall profile frame
Most often, a plasterboard frame is used for bathrooms. It has a number of advantages, such as water resistance, strength and lightness. A base is pre-assembled from metal profiles that are joined to the bathtub. A screen for a product is often made from such material.
Whatever type of installation is chosen, its important feature should be reliability. It is important to carry out all measurements, tests several times before completing the installation.
In Russian homes, a bathtub is a more popular plumbing fixture. Perhaps this is due to the fact that apartment meters are still not so common, and Russians are not yet accustomed to saving water.
On the other hand, the bath is really more convenient for washing, washing things and other household needs. The most popular are steel models, which are distinguished by an affordable price, high quality and long service life. Due to their light weight, transport and installation of these products is quite simple. In this article, we will show you how to install a steel bath yourself.
Features of steel baths
They replaced the too bulky, heavy cast-iron models of the Soviet model. Steel is a ductile and easily machined metal, thanks to which manufacturers have the opportunity to diversify the model and size range of sanitary products.
The advantages of such containers for washing are:
- A light weight. A steel bath weighs 4-5 times lighter than a cast iron bath, so it is easier to transport, bring to the floor and install.
- Coating durability. Enamel on the surface of the bowl is applied when exposed to high temperatures, as a result of which it is baked, acquiring resistance to chips, increased wear resistance.
- Affordable price. With high performance and long term service price steel models significantly lower than acrylic and cast iron.
Note! Light weight when installing a steel bath is considered more of a disadvantage than an advantage. A loose, low mass bowl wobbles, slides and wobbles, making hygiene practices unsafe.
Mounting methods
The quality of installation has a great influence on the comfort of use and the longevity of steel washing containers. The fact is that this material is easily deformed if the load is incorrectly distributed. When purchasing a steel font, pay attention to models with walls that are 3 mm or more thick. Installation of a steel bath is carried out in one of 3 ways:
Important! The disadvantages of steel baths are high thermal conductivity and resonating ability of products of this type. When using the bowl, homeowners notice that it cools faster, and also makes more noise when collecting water than cast iron. These defects can be reduced if, during the installation process, mounting foam or heat-insulating material is applied to the bottom surface of the bath.
Installation technology
Do-it-yourself installation of a steel bath is done when the floor in the room has already been leveled and tiled, but before the wall cladding has begun. This sequence of work allows you to move the bowl to the wall with a minimum gap. For self-assembly the master will need supports for the bowl, sealant, polyurethane foam, wrench, level. Installation is carried out in the following sequence:
Professional craftsmen recommend installing steel models on 3 walls to increase the rigidity and reliability of the structure. To do this, wooden bars or a metal corner are attached to the walls with screws so that the edges of the bowl rest on them.
Video instruction
