How to cut a laminate under a pipe. How to lay laminate flooring step by step. Contours for heating pipes under the laminate when installing flooring

Hardly today you can find a floor covering that is easier to install than laminate. Even a child can join the planks with glueless locks together. But even with such easy way assembly, there are some pitfalls that are very difficult to get around without professional skills. This article is devoted to the consideration of ways to bypass the various obstacles that arise when laying a laminate.

Difficult places when laying laminate

Laying laminate in a straight line is not difficult for anyone today. You don't need to be an expert to do this. However, when laying laminate flooring, you have to deal with problem areas that can be general case reduce to the following list:

• Transitions to adjacent rooms through wide open openings with side walls. The canonical example of such transitions are the openings formed by joining the loggias to the residential part of the rooms.
• Pipes coming out of screeds. These most of all include heating pipes for batteries with bottom connection.
• Passage through doorways. The complexity of the passage of these places is that it is necessary to bypass the door frames so that there are no gaps left.
• Installation of the last row of panels. Of all the above cases, this option is the simplest.
• Transition type "laminate - another coating." Here the problem is that the thickness of the coatings can be different and this entails a number of difficulties, up to the need to cast screeds at different levels. In addition, few people are interested in transitions in a straight line. The most common are transitions along curves.

Consider the procedure for performing work for each of these cases separately.

How to transition laminate through a wide opening with side walls

In order to move from the room to the glazed and insulated loggia, attached to the living quarters as a result of redevelopment, it is necessary that the floor screed in the room and the floor screed on the loggia be at the same level. This must be taken care of in advance. Otherwise, a step will turn out on the dividing line of the premises.

If the levels of the screeds match, then laying the laminate starts from the side wall, which does not have a doorway. The direction of laying the panels should be "according to the light." That is, long joints should be located so that the light falling from the loggia window passes along them.

The first few rows of laminate will be laid straight. This will continue until the end of the wall. At the point of transition of the wall to the slope, you need to make a cutout in the panel (or in two adjacent panels joined along the length) and throw a row up to the wall of the loggia fence along the facade. Then you need to lay another row of laminate in order to block the transverse joints on the loggia.

And the next step is to lay the laminate in reverse order directly on the loggia behind the wall, if you look at it from the room. When re-laying the laminate with lock connection you will have to lift the previous row, which is already in place, bring the panel under it at an angle, dock it manually without knocking it out, and, shaking it, besiege it on the lining. At the same time, if the width of the loggia is greater than the length of one panel, then the resulting undercut should have a run-up with the panels of the next row by at least 30 cm.

When the last panel has been laid in reverse order, you can continue laying the laminate further. When passing through the second wall, there will be no problems, since there the laying direction coincides with the direction in the rest of the room.

How to bypass pipes with laminate

Most often, difficulties with pipes when laying a laminate arise if they come out of the screed far from the corner. This situation is typical for houses with independent heating where heating devices with a lower connection are installed. In this case, two pipes are located side by side at a distance of about 5-7 cm from each other.

Laying the laminate in this case is carried out in the same way as if these pipes were not there. Until the moment when you come close to the pipes. Here it will become clear whether both pipes will fit on one panel or whether cuts will need to be made for them on two adjacent laminate panels.

If the pipes pass through one panel, you need to mark the centers of both pipes on it, cut holes with a small margin to the large side with a suitable radial saw, cut the panel along the center line across with an electric jigsaw and lay the cut panel in place. If you have done the markup correctly, then the panel will neatly go around the pipes that will remain inside. All that remains is to attach the second piece at the back to close the laminate surface behind the pipes. If everything is in order, then you can lay the next row of laminate, which will close the cut parts and prevent them from moving.

More difficult will be the case when the pipes are not located on the same panel. In this case, one of the panels will be longer, and the second shorter, since there should be a run between the rows. In order to correctly mark the places for cutting holes, you need to lay two rows of laminate into which the pipes fall, but without installing the last panels, which you just need to cut to size in length.

Then the panels are connected together and mark the centers of the holes. The panels must match along the cut line against the wall. Then, with the same radial saw, holes are cut out without separating the laminate panels and a cut is made along the axial line of the holes in the transverse direction of both panels. Then proceed in the same way as in the previous case.

How to get around a doorway with laminate

Difficulty with doorways arises when the door code is installed before laying the laminate. This happens if, before starting work with flooring, all facing work in the room is performed. If the doors are installed on top of the laminate, which means that it is impossible to complete all the work in the room on fine finish, then in this case it is possible to significantly simplify the procedure for crossing the doorway. Which, however, is far from always equivalent in terms of labor costs and is associated with the need to protect the already laid laminate from damage and pollution.

Typically, door frames interior doors in modern design they do not have a threshold and they are installed directly on the subfloor. To avoid gaps between the laminate and the complex profile door frame it needs to be cut in place. To do this, you need to take a piece of laminate, which is laid in the room and lining. Lay the scrap on the lining next to the upright post of the box and mark the thickness of the laminate on the lining on it. The same must be done on the second rack. Then you need to take a hard hacksaw with small tooth and saw off the excess along the marked line.

Next, you need to mark the transition line on the screed, which should run in the center door leaf from one box rack to another. After that, you can continue laying the laminate until the last panel (or panels, if the laminate fits perpendicular to the opening) remains, which must be marked so that it can go under the posts and would not touch the walls and slopes under the posts. Next, the panel must be engaged with the lock of the previous panel and laid in front of the rack. Then you need to take a piece of laminate and carefully knock out the panel under the rack with a hammer. Moreover, the panel should join with the second half approximately in the middle of the opening. The part paired with it must be cut out so that it first fits snugly under the end of the second rack, and then it also, knocking it out, needs to be docked with the first part. Trimmings that should go along the wall are measured and installed regardless of the location of the transverse seams of the rest of the floor.

How to install the last row of laminate panels

There are few cases when the last row fits into a whole strip of laminate in width. Most often, it is required to install undercuts smaller than the whole panel. To do this work accurately, it is necessary to mark several points on each trim panel, moreover, with a tolerance of 1 cm and directly in place, since the walls are far from ideal flat surface, then connect the dots with a line and cut off the excess along it with a jigsaw.

Before cutting the next part, you need to install the previous one. You can use a pry bar to hold the clippings in place. At the same time, in places where it will rest against the wall, you need to put at least a piece of laminate or other hard material that does not stain the walls.

Transition type "laminate - another coating"

In this case, you must first lay another coating. It can be tiles, carpet, parquet, self-leveling floor, etc. It is important here that clear contours of the transition line are obtained, which must be set before laying the laminate. Parallel to the outline, a transition bar support is mounted.

Then the laminate is laid in the usual manner, and the contour last panel, which must be joined to the bar, is first obtained on a paper template, from which it is transferred to the required part. It is necessary to take into account the gap recommended by the manufacturer of the bar in order to prevent defects after its final installation.

It is important to adjust the screed levels in places with different coatings. For example, the thickness of the parquet with the base is approximately 45 mm. And the thickness of the laminate with lining is approximately 15 mm. This means that you need to raise the side of the room where the laminate will be laid by three centimeters.

Finally, the transition bar is installed after the laying of the laminate is completed. Most often, it is enough to gently push it onto the base with a guide using a hammer and a gasket made of wood or plywood.

Functional purpose of decorative products

Installation Features

A variety of overlays for heating pipes and radiators

The appearance of pipes laid in the room and installed radiators heating should be in harmony with the overall interior.

pipe bypass with laminate

For this, it is necessary to use such decorative products as panels, screens, overlays. How to choose these elements correctly and what should you pay attention to first of all?

Functional purpose of decorative products

When laying floor covering, for example, laminate or parquet, it becomes necessary to make the place where the pipes and the floor come into contact with each other invisible. Even if you make a hole, in the end the problem will not be solved. The joint will still be noticeable, because when performing proper styling you need to leave a gap of about 10 millimeters, which will help to avoid problems when narrowing or expanding the flooring material.

Products such as decorative linings for pipes will help to eliminate the problem with masking. They were specially created for such purposes. These elements are a ring that is made from different materials.

Overlays for pipes not only neatly cover the gap, but also do not disturb the interior of the room.

Installation Features

Such products are mounted quite simply, since they have a simple design. Since the overlay is a collapsible decorative ring for pipes, it is put on in a girth and the gap is closed, after which the element is slammed.

The pad must be firmly pressed to the floor covering. Due to its shape, the products are fixed securely. A decorative overlay is installed on the pipes within one minute. This product is convenient to use. If necessary, the ring can be easily removed.

To reuse heating pipe linings, they only need to be washed and then reinstalled. Experts advise the area where the flooring is connected to the ring to be glued.

A variety of overlays for heating pipes and radiators

There is a huge selection for sale. decorative elements for pipes and radiators.

Rings for heating pipes differ:

1. Dimensions. Standard elements are ½ and ¾.
2. Manufacturing material. Most often, this is an array of a tree, and they use different tree species. They are also made from MDF. The second version of the product has affordable price unlike the expensive first.
3. Scope of application. A decorative overlay is made on the heating pipe, imitating parquet, laminate, fake diamond etc.
4. decorative design. Rings differ in color, shades, texture.

Along with the rings, other options for masking the joints are used:

• jute or hemp rope which has good thermal insulation and reduces heat loss.
• use heat-resistant fabric;
• carry out painting.

Laying laminate Instruction 3

How to get around terrain obstacles.

Bypass laminate heating pipes

There is often a beautiful way to bypass heating pipes on the Internet. The experience of our masters in laying laminate will allow you to choose the most elegant way to get around obstacles of any complexity (corners, pipes).

One of them is when pipes are taken into stocks, as it were:

• Laying the laminate is carried out as long as the next row is not obstructed by the pipe.
• With the help of a tape measure, corner and others handy tools the location of the pipes is measured - the distance from the center of the pipes to the laid laminate sheet and from the center to the wall
• Pipe diameter is determined
• On the planned laminate board, the obtained values ​​\u200b\u200bare marked - circles of pipes are drawn, taking into account the necessary clearance from the wall and the pipes themselves (the diameter is 1 cm larger)
• The cut is made in a straight line across the laminate board.
• The short part is started behind the pipes (from the wall), after which the long part of the laminate board is laid

Even more beautiful solution is an option when, instead of a cross cut of the connection of the short and long parts, an end lock is used. Those. all markings and drank holes for the pipe are made at the junction of laminate boards (as in the photo above)

In practice, this option is extremely rare. Usually the pipes are very close to the walls.

It is easier to make an oval drank under the pipe, taking into account the necessary clearance, and if you really want to, make the reverse part from the remaining piece. But this is not necessary - the presence of a gap and the installation of a skirting board on the wall leads to the need for decorative intervention (colored sealant or special linings).

It is better to mark up first on cardboard, check it several times, and then transfer it to a laminate board and saw it off. Because the radius of the oval will be small, the jigsaw must be driven very slowly and significant efforts must be made to twist. Usually the canvas begins to “burn” - smoke may appear, and the canvas is covered with soot. But it was never possible to bring to the flame)). For greater convenience, you first need to cut out one side of the oval, then the other.

A gap between the pipe and the laminate (or between the pipe and the parquet board) is required. To prevent dust from accumulating in it, it is necessary to use decorating agents

Bypass laminate corners

If the corner meets in the direction of travel, i.e. ledge to the right of the movement, then there is no great difficulty. Reach the corner, measure the geometry of the protrusion on the whole board: the length to the protrusion, the depth of the protrusion, add a gap, double-check and saw off.

It is more difficult when the angle is on the left in the direction of travel and affects the geometry of several boards (i.e. a long wall). In this case, you can miscalculate the depth of the cut boards, because. no azimuth. In this case, it is necessary to make a false row.

We add either a whole board to the laid row, or the longest piece of the board (if the whole board cannot be used due to the limited width). We attach several boards to it - a false row to the extreme left position. Align all the edges, snap all the locks. We take measurements of the resulting niches and transfer them to blanks, check them several times (sizes, location of locks) and saw off. Then we disassemble the false row and mount the sawn blanks.

This work is complicated by the fact that you will have to connect the locks not from left to right, but vice versa.

Bypass the door frame and furniture

There are two ways to pair flooring with door frames: coating geometry adjustment or filed boxes. Both ways have pros and cons. I filed the box a beautiful option - there are no gaps. But the door frame is a more static element than the flooring. For example, first a parquet board was laid (height 12-15 mm), it was scratched, soaked, cracked. It was decided to replace it with a laminate (height 8 mm) of the same color. And the box is already filed - there will be a gap of 8 mm. Or you need to quickly disassemble the floor during flooding - with the option of boards wound under the box, this is not always easy to do.

The second disadvantage is the complexity and cost of the box. Prices for interior doors can vary from 1,500 to 100,000 rubles (or more). Sawing the door frame of an expensive door is an extremely unpleasant experience. In this position (bending hacksaw blade, pressed to the floor), the cut may be distorted or the veneer may be chipped.

Fitting the geometry of the floor covering to the shape of the box does not have the above disadvantages, but it requires decorative masking of the expansion gap. Usually it is performed with colored sealants.

If selected first way, you need to take a hacksaw with a fine tooth, mark the cutting height with a small piece of coating (+ substrate, board and 1-3 mm margin) and cut very carefully. If it is possible to remove the platbands - it is better to do this, it will be more convenient. If not, the job becomes more difficult. Do not forget that behind them concrete wall, which can ruin the hacksaw. A margin of 1-3 mm is necessary so that the box does not press the laminate.

Next, the board is measured and cut. The cutting geometry should be such that after laying all the edges are hidden under the box by 5-10 mm, but do not run into an obstacle. For convenience, the minimum allowable length of the board is desirable - equal to the width of the board.

As soon as the laminate board of the desired geometry is made, it is latched along the long side (into a longitudinal lock), and then gently tapping through the tamping bar (or through a piece of board with a reverse lock) is shifted under the door frame. In this operation, the slowness and friction force of the longitudinal locks are important (the longer the board, the more difficult it is to shift it along the longitudinal lock).

If selected second way, you need to use cardboard. The geometry of the box is applied to it, the necessary cut is made, checked, and only after that it is transferred to the workpiece. It is better to mark the threshold line on a flat tool that fits between the jambs of the door frame.

A gap between the door frame and the laminate (or between the frame and the parquet board) is required. To prevent dust from accumulating in it, it is necessary to use decorating agents

Laying laminate in a doorway in a complex version

Most difficult option bypassing the door frame when the laying direction of the laminate or parquet board parallel to the doorway, and the laminate must be brought under the door frame.

• The joint of the boards should be done close to the middle of the opening. If the penultimate row does not allow this, then observe the run-up, but join in doorway
• Whatever the longest row and wherever it is doorway(the edges of the wall or the middle), it will need to be laid from the doorway.
• Saw off a small board (10-15 cm wide), so that it can be inserted into the lock of the penultimate stacked row and 1 cm remains between it and the wall.
• Remove the wedges from all sides of the laid laminate or parquet board
• Insert the board in the penultimate row and from one edge and move the entire canvas with a nail puller by 5-7 mm, then do it from the other edge.
• File the door frame on both sides (preferably before laying the last 2-3 rows)

• Measure and cut the board (with any part of the lock in the middle - the left or right side of the structure). The geometry of the cut laminate or parquet board should be such that the gaps are covered with a box and a casing, but the board does not rest against the wall or box anywhere.
• Insert the workpiece into the lock and knock it out carefully to the very extreme position, i.e. 5-7 mm from the normal position. If the geometry needs to be changed, do so.
• Measure and cut the next piece. Its geometry should be such that it fits into the short lock of the stacked workpiece and fits into the remaining opening between the door frame. All cracks, as a result, should also be covered with a door frame and a platband.
• Insert the workpiece into place. The following situation should turn out - the entire canvas is displaced from the doorway by 5-7 mm., One board is wound under the door frame until it stops against the wall, the other is laid in all the locks, but not under the door frame

• Next, you need to move the two blanks along the canvas. This is done either by padding or a nail puller (if there is an emphasis).
• After that, with a nail puller, the entire canvas is shifted to the doorway by 5-7 mm. It goes under the box.

  How to bypass the pipe when laying laminate?

  Do not forget about the distance for mounting the nut.

• Report the rest of the last row.

Note

Laying a laminate or parquet board in the doorway of the above described option is not an easy process. Without experience, you can ruin more than one blank, but there is no need to despair - the road will be mastered by the walking one.

Note

Even if the whole apartment is planned to be covered with one floor covering, thresholds are necessary. Our craftsmen periodically travel to sites where it is required to break a single canvas covering several rooms, because. it went up like a wave.

If the room has built-in furniture that cannot be moved, you can leave it in place and lay the cover around. In this case, all geometric adjustments must be made through cardboard templates.

Note

There are very complex geometric figures, for example bypassing the door frame when diagonal laying boards. Without a template, it will be difficult even for experienced craftsmen.

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Laminate installation instructions

Step 1. Preparing for Laminate Laying

Step 2 Laying the laminate in rows

Features of laying parquet boards

Do-it-yourself laminate flooring - a quick guide

Laying parquet boards diagonally

Good afternoon Please tell me how to properly lay the laminate in the doorways and near the pipe risers. I will have to install the floor covering myself. In general, the work on the device of the floor was done by the master: I picked up the right materials prepared the ground. It remains only to lay the laminate, but he fell seriously ill and will not be able to continue in the next 5-6 months. I decided to do everything myself. In principle, I imagine the procedure, but it is specific places that confuse me, where I am afraid to spoil it.

Yes, indeed when laying laminate Special attention should be given to zones in districts doorways and places where communication elements are located. In this aspect, two methods of installing a laminate coating are relevant.

What about doorways?

Method number 1

It is characterized by high labor costs, although this technology is the most optimal in the vast majority of cases. The door frame is cut to a height that will be sufficient for laying the laminate panel. But when performing such manipulations, folk wisdom is very relevant: "Measure seven times before cutting off." Here the main emphasis is on dimensional accuracy, since there is no chance of correcting the situation.

Method number 2

An easier method that involves working with a laminate panel. It is cut in accordance with the dimensions of the door jamb or other "protrusion", while leaving a gap from the wall. A gap of no more than 5 mm is allowed near the doorway. In addition, it will subsequently be closed with a special decorative strip, which will be installed in such a way that it cannot prevent the closing and opening of the door.

Special attention to risers and pipelines

In this case, the laying should be carried out in such a way that the transverse joint falls on the pipes. Or it is necessary to pre-drill a special hole that completely matches the shape and size of the pipe. In this case, it is important to observe the following condition: the size of the hole must exceed the diameter of the pipe by 20 mm. The gaps formed at the final stage of the installation of the laminate flooring will be covered with special plugs that match the color of the floor in color.

Laminate flooring around pipes and under doors

Laminate flooring around pipes and under doors. and also under other obstacles, in fact, it does not present any particular difficulties - you just need to know some important points. It is about them that we will talk here.

Bypassing the pipe with a laminate is carried out as follows: a) it is necessary to make measurements and set marks; b) cut a hole of the required diameter in the corresponding board, taking into account that there should be a distance of 10 mm between the pipe and the edge of the laminate.

Bypassing the laminate corners, steps, thresholds, ramps and other similar elements is subject to the same rule - the distance between them and the edge of the laminate should be 10 mm.

Where does this distance come from? The fact is that 10 mm. - This minimum width expansion (deformation) seam, which is necessary in order to ensure the free movement of the coating, which occurs due to temperature and other deformation (laminated floors continuously "breathe"). If there are no expansion joints, then the shields may swell. so you need to take it seriously. Although the laminate is a "constructor for adults" and "wallpaper for the floor", its flooring is still not a toy, but a work that must be treated accordingly.

The laminate under the doors is laid as follows: during the laying process, or rather, even before it, the doors are removed from the hinges and removed from the room. But before that, you need to calculate whether the door will close after you lay the floors. To do this, add the thickness of the substrate and the thickness of the laminate and subtract all this from the distance from concrete base floor to door edge. If less than 3 mm remains. (excluding the aluminum sill), then the door will have to be cut down. If you also need a nut, then at least 8 mm should remain. (Another thing is that the threshold can be located outside the door.

The flooring of the extreme row is carried out in the same way as the rest of the rows, only it will most likely have to be sawn along, that is, all its shields should be sawn. This is not as difficult as it might seem: just measure the distance between the edge of the penultimate row and the wall, subtract all the same 10 mm. sawing, joining, laying. Fully (with photo and video) the process is described in general material for laying laminate flooring.

How to lay a laminate if a pipe laid across the room interferes? Yes, very simple. You just need to take the panel, put it on the lock of the previous one and snap it with a sharp effort (watch the video). True, the panel should not be too short so that it can be bent:

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Many would not mind learning how to lay laminate flooring, because this skill will allow you to do modern renovation and at the same time save on the services of masters.

You will have to master not only how to lay laminate but also how to preparatory work. Between the base cleaned and treated with soil, as well as the future floor, it is required to lay a PVC substrate or polyethylene film. One of the ways to lay a laminated coating is the following method: armed with PVC glue, they process the edges of the panels with it.

How to put laminate under a pipe?

Laminate flooring should not be glued to the floor.

Heed to good advice how to lay laminate flooring correctly: stretch a straight rope along the walls, which will allow you to avoid curvature in work. When you finish laying one row, then the next row must be started from the plank that remains from the previous stage. Please note that the length of the panel should be 400 millimeters or more. If the board is shorter, cut the new board in half.

Remember that the row of laminate in contact with the wall must have a gap of 5 mm with it. If the room held heating pipes, cut a hole in the plank 10 mm larger than the diameter of the pipe itself. Mask the cut of the hole with special shutters. When the laminate is in place, remove the spacer wedges and install the skirting board at least 1 cm wide.

How to properly install laminate. Video lesson

25.07.2013

When laying laminate, be sure to leave a gap. That is, such a gap should be between all objects. First of all, the boards do not touch the walls. But they should not touch door frames, heating pipes and should not rest against another floor covering. For example, in tiles.

The floor, for the manufacture of which a laminate is used, is called a floating floor.

It is not attached to the base and is not placed in a thrust for one reason - a laminate, like natural wood, changes its size depending on the humidity in the room. For this, they leave a gap: based on possible changes.

Most of all, such a gap is noticeable along the walls. But there it is closed with a plinth. Modern plinth is nailed to the wall. It used to be nailed to the floor, but now they don’t do that, the floor should be “floating”. The gap between different floor coverings is closed with typical thresholds. They are made of aluminum and covered with paint to match the color of the laminate. But there are still places that need to be closed.

This refers to the holes for the heating pipes. The pipes themselves can be hidden in the screed, but the place of their exit needs to be arranged somehow. It is impossible to lay the laminate closely (given the need for a gap), and it is not possible. The hole is difficult to mark, and if cut end-to-end, then the board cannot be inserted into the lock, it will simply rest against the pipe. According to the standard, the gap should be 8-10 mm, but it can be less - 3-5 mm. So far, not a single board has been damaged.

The easiest way is to close the hole with a decorative round overlay. But they are not so easy to buy, and it is not possible to put them everywhere: the lining simply does not fit between the pipe and the wall.

Then you need to close the gap with decorative putty. For this purpose, a sealant or wood putty is theoretically suitable. But the putty can crumble from temperature, the sealant is elastic and easily survives heating. Only it is better to go to the store along with a piece of laminate in order to accurately match the color (the sealant is sold already tinted according to the RAL system). Another option is grout ceramic tiles. It is also sold tinted and at the same time (if diluted with latex) it is quite elastic. The only but that from the package will be used at best 10%. The rest will remain in case of possible repairs.

Comments

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Makhlin Oleg

How many I look, everyone is covered with ordinary grout for joints.

Informative. It would be nice if other cases were also described. For example, when a box with an extension and you can’t put a sill or a plinth there.

Igor Kulbeda

It depends how you cut. It is easiest to close with a decorative washer. But when the pipes are close to the wall, they usually cut with a rectangle, so the washer does not fit.

For such cases, you need to start pipes in the wall. And then they neatly come out of the wall straight to the tap.

Well, they take it out mostly from the floor.

Contours for heating pipes under the laminate when installing flooring

Laminate flooring around pipes and under doors, as well as under other obstacles, in fact, it does not present any particular difficulties - you just need to know some important points. It is about them that we will talk here.

Laminate pipe bypass is carried out as follows: a) it is necessary to make measurements and set marks; b) cut a hole of the required diameter in the corresponding board, taking into account that there should be a distance of 10 mm between the pipe and the edge of the laminate.

The seams around the pipes and other iron must be covered with acrylic sealant (it is better to take the sealant exactly to the color of the floor, here the color is not very suitable in the photo). However, the seams along the perimeter, covered with skirting boards, must remain unfilled:

Bypassing corners, steps, thresholds, ramps with laminate and other similar elements obey the same rule - the distance between them and the edge of the laminate should be 10 mm.

Where does this distance come from? The fact is that 10 mm. - this is the minimum width of the expansion (deformation) joint, which is necessary in order to ensure the free movement of the coating, which occurs due to temperature and other deformation (laminated floors continuously "breathe"). If there are no expansion joints, then the shields can swell, so this must be taken seriously. Although the laminate is a "constructor for adults" and "wallpaper for the floor", its flooring is still not a toy, but a work that must be treated accordingly.

Laminate under doors it is laid as follows: during the laying process, or rather, even before it, the doors are removed from the hinges and removed from the room. But before it is necessary to calculate whether the door will close after you lay the floors. To do this, add the thickness of the substrate and the thickness of the laminate and subtract it all from the distance from the concrete floor base to the edge of the door. If less than 3 mm remains (excluding the aluminum threshold), then the door will have to be cut down. If you also need a nut, then at least 8 mm should remain. (Another thing is that the nut can be located Behind the door, not below it).

End row decking carried out in the same way as the rest of the rows, only it will most likely have to be sawn along, i.e., sawing all of its shields. This is not as difficult as it might seem: just measure the distance between the edge of the penultimate row and the wall, subtract all the same 10 mm., Saw off, connect, lay. The process is fully described (with photos and videos) in the general material for laying laminate.

If the row cannot be installed (for example, due to the fact that the steam heating radiator is in the way), then part of the edge of the lock edge of the panel of the previous row should be removed using a planer, which will make it possible to insert the panel of the outer row at a greater angle than usual. Coat the lock with glue, tuck the unruly panel under the radiator, and finish the row.

How to lay a laminate if a pipe laid across the room interferes? Yes, very easy! You just need to take the panel, put it on the lock of the previous one and snap it with a sharp effort (watch the video).

True, the panel should not be too short so that it can be bent:

This is how you need to avoid obstacles when laying laminate floors. Agree that there is absolutely nothing complicated and supernatural in this. Yes, you should remember that when you do this kind of work to order, then obstacle avoidance is usually assessed separately (for example, as in the case of tiling). I mean, in an ordinary room with four corners and one battery, the laying price is basic, and if it is full of different angles and the batteries are planted on the walls like cockroaches, and at the same time the pipes stretch along the floor almost under each wall, then the assessment of the work should be reconsidered .

Laying laminate Instruction 3

How to get around terrain obstacles.

Bypass laminate heating pipes

There is often a beautiful way to bypass heating pipes on the Internet. The experience of our masters in laying laminate will allow you to choose the most elegant way to get around obstacles of any complexity (corners, pipes).

One of them is when pipes are taken into stocks, as it were:

• Laying the laminate is carried out as long as the next row is not obstructed by the pipe.
• With the help of a tape measure, a corner and other convenient tools, the location of the pipes is measured - the distance from the center of the pipes to the laid laminate sheet and from the center to the wall
• Pipe diameter is determined
• On the planned laminate board, the obtained values ​​\u200b\u200bare marked - circles of pipes are drawn, taking into account the necessary clearance from the wall and the pipes themselves (diameter by 1 cm.
• The cut is made in a straight line across the laminate board.
• The short part is started behind the pipes (from the wall), after which the long part of the laminate board is laid

An even more beautiful solution is the option when, instead of cross-cutting the connection of the short and long parts, an end lock is used.

Laminate and heating pipes

Those. all markings and drank holes for the pipe are made at the junction of laminate boards (as in the photo above)

In practice, this option is extremely rare. Usually the pipes are very close to the walls.

It is easier to make an oval drank under the pipe, taking into account the necessary clearance, and if you really want to, make the reverse part from the remaining piece.

But this is not necessary - the presence of a gap and the installation of a skirting board on the wall leads to the need for decorative intervention (colored sealant or special linings).

It is better to mark up first on cardboard, check it several times, and then transfer it to a laminate board and saw it off. Because the radius of the oval will be small, the jigsaw must be driven very slowly and significant efforts must be made to twist. Usually the canvas begins to “burn” - smoke may appear, and the canvas is covered with soot. But it was never possible to bring to the flame)). For greater convenience, you first need to cut out one side of the oval, then the other.

A gap between the pipe and the laminate (or between the pipe and the parquet board) is required. To prevent dust from accumulating in it, it is necessary to use decorating agents

Bypass laminate corners

If the corner meets in the direction of travel, i.e. ledge to the right of the movement, then there is no great difficulty. Reach the corner, measure the geometry of the protrusion on the whole board: the length to the protrusion, the depth of the protrusion, add a gap, double-check and saw off.

It is more difficult when the angle is on the left in the direction of travel and affects the geometry of several boards (i.e. a long wall). In this case, you can miscalculate the depth of the cut boards, because. no azimuth. In this case, it is necessary to make a false row.

We add either a whole board to the laid row, or the longest piece of the board (if the whole board cannot be used due to the limited width). We attach several boards to it - a false row to the extreme left position. Align all the edges, snap all the locks. We take measurements of the resulting niches and transfer them to blanks, check them several times (sizes, location of locks) and saw off. Then we disassemble the false row and mount the sawn blanks.

This work is complicated by the fact that you will have to connect the locks not from left to right, but vice versa.

Bypass the door frame and furniture

There are two ways to pair flooring with door frames: coating geometry adjustment or filed boxes. Both ways have pros and cons. I filed the box a beautiful option - there are no gaps. But the door frame is a more static element than the flooring. For example, first a parquet board was laid (height 12-15 mm), it was scratched, soaked, cracked. It was decided to replace it with a laminate (height 8 mm) of the same color. And the box is already filed - there will be a gap of 8 mm. Or you need to quickly disassemble the floor during flooding - with the option of boards wound under the box, this is not always easy to do.

The second disadvantage is the complexity and cost of the box. Prices for interior doors can vary from 1,500 to 100,000 rubles (or more). Sawing the door frame of an expensive door is an extremely unpleasant experience. In this position (bending hacksaw blade, pressed to the floor), the cut may be distorted or the veneer may be chipped.

Fitting the geometry of the floor covering to the shape of the box does not have the above disadvantages, but it requires decorative masking of the expansion gap. Usually it is performed with colored sealants.

If selected first way, you need to take a hacksaw with a fine tooth, mark the cutting height with a small piece of coating (+ substrate, board and 1-3 mm margin) and cut very carefully. If it is possible to remove the platbands - it is better to do this, it will be more convenient. If not, the job becomes more difficult. Do not forget that there is a concrete wall behind them, which can ruin the hacksaw. A margin of 1-3 mm is necessary so that the box does not press the laminate.

Next, the board is measured and cut. The cutting geometry should be such that after laying all the edges are hidden under the box by 5-10 mm, but do not run into an obstacle. For convenience, the minimum allowable length of the board is desirable - equal to the width of the board.

As soon as the laminate board of the desired geometry is made, it is latched along the long side (into a longitudinal lock), and then gently tapping through the tamping bar (or through a piece of board with a reverse lock) is shifted under the door frame. In this operation, the slowness and friction force of the longitudinal locks are important (the longer the board, the more difficult it is to shift it along the longitudinal lock).

If selected second way, you need to use cardboard. The geometry of the box is applied to it, the necessary cut is made, checked, and only after that it is transferred to the workpiece. It is better to mark the threshold line on a flat tool that fits between the jambs of the door frame.

A gap between the door frame and the laminate (or between the frame and the parquet board) is required. To prevent dust from accumulating in it, it is necessary to use decorating agents

Laying laminate in a doorway in a complex version

The most difficult option for bypassing the door frame is when the direction of laying the laminate or parquet board is parallel to the doorway, and the laminate must be brought under the door frame.

• The joint of the boards should be done close to the middle of the opening. If the penultimate row does not allow this, then observe the run-up, but join in the doorway
• Whatever the long row and wherever the doorway is (the edges of the wall or the middle), it will need to be laid from the doorway.
• Saw off a small board (10-15 cm wide), so that it can be inserted into the lock of the penultimate stacked row and 1 cm remains between it and the wall.
• Remove the wedges from all sides of the laid laminate or parquet board
• Insert the board in the penultimate row and from one edge and move the entire canvas with a nail puller by 5-7 mm, then do it from the other edge.
• File the door frame on both sides (preferably before laying the last 2-3 rows)

• Measure and cut the board (with any part of the lock in the middle - the left or right side of the structure). The geometry of the cut laminate or parquet board should be such that the gaps are covered with a box and a casing, but the board does not rest against the wall or box anywhere.
• Insert the workpiece into the lock and knock it out carefully to the very extreme position, i.e. 5-7 mm from the normal position. If the geometry needs to be changed, do so.
• Measure and cut the next piece. Its geometry should be such that it fits into the short lock of the stacked workpiece and fits into the remaining opening between the door frame. All cracks, as a result, should also be covered with a door frame and a platband.
• Insert the workpiece into place. The following situation should turn out - the entire canvas is displaced from the doorway by 5-7 mm., One board is wound under the door frame until it stops against the wall, the other is laid in all the locks, but not under the door frame

• Next, you need to move the two blanks along the canvas. This is done either by padding or a nail puller (if there is an emphasis).
• After that, with a nail puller, the entire canvas is shifted to the doorway by 5-7 mm. It goes under the box. Do not forget about the distance for mounting the nut.

• Report the rest of the last row.

Note

Laying a laminate or parquet board in the doorway of the above described option is not an easy process.

Without experience, you can ruin more than one blank, but there is no need to despair - the road will be mastered by the walking one.

Note

Even if the whole apartment is planned to be covered with one floor covering, thresholds are necessary. Our craftsmen periodically travel to sites where it is required to break a single canvas covering several rooms, because. it went up like a wave.

If the room has built-in furniture that cannot be moved, you can leave it in place and lay the cover around. In this case, all geometric adjustments must be made through cardboard templates.

Note

There are very complex geometric shapes, for example, bypassing a door frame when laying boards diagonally. Without a template, it will be difficult even for experienced craftsmen.

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Laminate installation instructions

Step 1. Preparing for Laminate Laying

Step 2 Laying the laminate in rows

Features of laying parquet boards

Do-it-yourself laminate flooring - a quick guide

Laying parquet boards diagonally

If, when laying the laminate, you have to go around the heating or water pipe, then you need to make a laminate board template from cardboard or drawing paper, and attach it in place. By carefully cutting the board template, you can make an exact match between the pipe and the laminate board. Then, once again checking the correct trimming of the template, it is necessary to cut out on a real laminate board an exact match to the template using a jigsaw or / and a hacksaw, rounding the smooth lines with a rasp or a round file. But still, it will be necessary to leave a small gap of 2-3 mm, then closing this place with a decorative overlay. After laying the cut board, continue laying the laminate in the usual manner.

Naturally, laminate is not linoleum, and the person who installs a very expensive coating wants to do everything beautifully, as they say for the soul!

If the pipe is close to or not far from the wall, then I think it’s clear that you need to make a template out of cardboard, fit it as much as possible, transfer it to a laminate board, cut it out, lay it, and close an insignificant defect with a decorative ring!

But this is understandable, here, as they say, everything is clear, but if the pipe is at a significant distance from the wall, to cut a long hole, then to make pieces - the devil knows what will be shorter!

No!, In this case, you will have to spoil one of the laminate boards by cutting off the side lock from it at the required distance from the wall, or maybe you already have leftovers of this size - you will need to cut holes from the two halves so that the locks close forming an ideal pipe bend - of course, you first need to make a template, and then cut the laminate.

It looks like this, see the photo, and after docking it closes with decorative rings.

When we install laminate flooring in our house, there may be obstacles, for example, in the form of pipes. How to bypass them? When we got to the pipes, we should make a measurement where to cut holes in the laminate. It is best to take a sheet of paper, attach it in place and mark the intended holes. Then we transfer this template to the laminate and draw a circle. Now you can cut with a drill with a pen of the desired diameter.
Then, with a hacksaw, we saw the laminate in the center of the cut out circle. Now you can lay the laminate as shown in the picture.