The problem of choosing how to hem a draft ceiling according to wooden beams, always occurs during the construction of wooden log cabins, timber buildings, frame cottages, summer cottages and even extensions to the main premises. It will be necessary to choose the material and method of laying on the ceiling base in such a way as to ensure its reliable fastening to the supporting joists, and any shrinkage or deformation processes that accompany all wooden structures did not lead to subsidence or deformation of the supporting structures.

Materials for filing floors

Wooden beams remain today universal remedy for arranging the ceiling, they are light and durable, relatively easy to process, cut, drill. Any type of fasteners can be driven into wood; powerful lifting equipment is not required for installation and installation.

But wooden beams, like any wood, with all their advantages, have two significant drawbacks:

A timber or a log, even after careful processing, still remains subject to temperature deformations, shrinkage, shrinkage, which ultimately can lead to a breakage of the fastening for ceiling hemming in wooden house;
The plane formed by the lower edges of the wooden beams, even with the most careful alignment of the supporting surface of the walls, always remains uneven. Therefore, the material planned for the rough hemming of the ceiling in a wooden house must have maximum strength.

For your information! The last point is extremely important for high-quality stuffing of the draft ceiling. Usually the correct filing with a long wooden lath, OSB plate or plywood allows you to dramatically increase the rigidity of the structure.

The most difficult is the situation with large rooms. The problem of how to make a draft ceiling in a private house on wooden beams of large elongation is always aggravated by the fact that the carriers wooden logs or double boards under their own weight, the mass of insulation and attic furniture always sag.

Therefore, it is important not only to choose the right one, the better to hem the ceiling in a private house, but also to choose a method for attaching the filing to the beams. Ideally, the material should be laid in such a way as to compensate for any deflections in the subfloor, or at least make them invisible.

Materials for laying on wooden beams

For filing a draft ceiling, several of the most affordable and easy-to-process materials are used:

Edged board with a thickness of 20-25 mm with a polished and untreated surface;
OSB boards with non-laminated surface;
Plywood;
Old laminate.

All of the listed materials are made on the basis of wood chip mass, which, after deep processing using pressure and chemical reagents, still retains the thermal expansion coefficient within the limits of the characteristics of construction wood.

Plasterboard sheets, for all their merits, are not suitable for mounting directly on the wooden beams of the rough floor. You need a transition frame.

In this case, in order to equip a drywall rough ceiling on ceiling beams, you will need to install metal carcass from a thin profile.

There are many alternative options materials. Before hemming the ceiling base in a private house with expensive plywood or clapboard, you can use an old wooden lath from the facade of the building or even trim panels.

An old dismantled laminate can be used as a backing material for a draft ceiling. Usually the owners throw it away or use it for flooring in the most unexpected places. Lamellas treated with oil varnish can solve the problem of choosing how to sew up a ceiling on beams in a small room.

Plank filing of a rough ceiling on wooden beams

Most suitable option filings have to be chosen based on the characteristics of the building, the method of its insulation, the presence of a warm or cold attic, the material of the walls, and the humidity of the atmosphere inside the box.

The ideal option for a draft ceiling may well be the padding of wooden floor beams with an ordinary shalevka or edged board.

There are three most proven ways of flooring:

Fastening a long board along the lower ends of the rough floor;
Installation of boards on cranial slats;
Flooring by outer surface wooden beams.

At first glance, the material options are not much different, but this is not entirely true, there are certain differences. Before hemming the draft ceiling along the beams, you need to pay attention to the construction of the attic and ceiling.

The flooring of a wooden lath along the upper plane of the beam is used only in case of a serious need to increase the height of the ceiling or to arrange attic rooms winter type. In this case, to reduce losses, the floor is insulated with an additional layer. mineral wool above the rough crate of wooden beams. The removal of the log from the insulation layer reduces heat loss and significantly improves the vapor barrier.

The classic version of filing the ceiling on wooden beams

For rough coatings, tongue-and-groove boards are rarely taken because of the high price. In the simplest case, an edged board is used for filing the floor. But there are also exceptions in frame buildings draft ceilings can be hemmed wooden clapboard or floorboard.

Shalevka is cut to size, stitched to the length of the overlap and sanded along the wrong and front parts. This option turns out to be cheaper than if you purchase a cut or, especially, a grooved board. At first glance, the material used for the arrangement of the draft ceiling does not have to be ground or processed on a jointer. In fact, the removal of coarse pile from wooden surface, remaining after sawing, significantly reduces the consumption of antiseptic impregnations and flame retardants.

If the distance between the beams does not exceed 60 cm, then the board can be beaten directly on a wooden beam. In this case, the material must be laid on the draft ceiling perpendicular to the direction of laying the floor. If the room is large enough, and the step between the beams is more than a meter, then you will need to sew an additional crate from a cut inch board to reduce the distance to 40 cm.

The only problem that one has to face when arranging a draft ceiling is the difficulty of holding the board on wooden beams with outstretched arms. If you have to work alone, then in this case climbing scaffolds, home-made wooden props or carpentry clamps come to the rescue. The laid board is gently pressed to remove the gap, and fastened with self-tapping screws and a screwdriver.

In the same way, a draft ceiling is assembled from a grooved floorboard or wooden lining.

The advantage of filing a draft ceiling on cranial beams

You can also make a filing of the ceiling surface using cranial wooden bars. This wooden slats with a section of 40x40 mm, sewn on both sides of the beam along its entire length. The rough ceiling is made up of short wooden planks or planks laid on cranial supports along the entire length of the ceiling.

At similar way hems have their own advantages:

The laying of the material can be done independently, without assistants, while the worker is directly on the ceiling from the attic, so it is much more convenient to lay the hemming material than to lift it on outstretched arms above your head;
The stacked ceiling is much easier option tamping of long boards for the entire length of the floor. You can always remove one or two boards in order to check the condition of the insulation or lay additional communications.

The technology of laying a draft ceiling on cranial bars has its own, quite serious drawbacks. Firstly, the dimensions of the support rail-bar must be at least 40x40 mm, otherwise the weight of the filing will simply push through it. Secondly, the thickness of the draft ceiling insulation is reduced by the height of the support. Otherwise, the floor surface will need to be raised by the same 40 mm.

Thirdly, the horizontal dimension between the wooden beams is automatically reduced by 80mm, resulting in poor vapor permeability, most of which is not removed through the ventilation gap, but will linger on the draft ceiling.

Another factor, short boards do not affect the strength and rigidity of the draft ceiling. And vice versa, long-length filing significantly improves the bearing capacity of the beam, so it is recommended to sew up strongly elongated ceilings without the use of cranial supports.

Padding with plywood, OSB and fiberboard

Of the three materials used for filing draft ceilings, fiberboard is considered the weakest, but at the same time, due to its low weight, it is possible to install or lay fiberboard on wooden beams alone, without helpers.

Fiberboard ceiling

Filing with wood-fiber material is used as a rough base before installing stretch ceiling membranes, pasting foam tiles, stucco, any kind decorative finishes with low weight.

If wooden beams made of hewn logs are laid on the walls, then before assembling the rough ceiling, a crate of thin laths with a section of 20x60 mm should be filled on the lower edge. If you attach the wood fiber web directly to uneven surface logs, the surface will turn out to be curved and uneven.

Sheathing wooden beams with plywood

For the arrangement of the draft ceiling, plywood up to 10 mm thick is used. The material can be laid in any order, directly on the beams, without any crate or intermediate rail.

If the ceiling surface will be further finished, painted or tinted under a solid wood cladding, then the joints and seams between the coatings are sealed with a special paste prepared from painted birch shavings and oil varnish.

Before laying the material, the seams and edges are sealed with adhesive tape so that the varnish does not get on front side, otherwise the plywood will remain stained and streaked due to poor absorption of the toner.

Use of OSB boards

Arrangement of a hemming layer on wooden beams using OSB boards rightly considered one of the most best options rough ceiling lining. The cost of a plate, 10 mm thick, is about half the price of plywood, despite the fact that the OSB strength is enough to hold a layer of insulation, and when correct fastening, at least five self-tapping screws for every 20 cm of the length of the wooden beam, the panel can withstand a weight of up to 100 kg per square meter.

Conclusion

The technology of laying a draft ceiling on wooden beams is available to all novice finishers in terms of complexity. Anyone who has ever dealt with the installation of rails and boards, without resorting to the services of hired workers. Of course, before proceeding with the equipment of the draft ceiling, it would be right to think over the entire technology for performing work, especially in terms of transferring the floor material and temporarily holding it until it is completely fixed.

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Ceiling in a private house: 13 steps to comfort and practicality

This article is about how to make a ceiling in a private house. In it, I am going to touch upon the problems of choosing the height of the ceiling, its structure and the selection of materials for its installation and design. Let's get started.

Height

Minimum

What is the minimum possible ceiling height in a private house?

2.4 meters. By reducing the height even more, you will make the living rooms frankly uncomfortable: the ceilings will literally put pressure on the inhabitants of the house, forcing them to constantly bend down.

By the way: already at a height of 2.4 - 2.5 meters, a person above average height will cling to his head hanging chandeliers and lamps. Personally verified: with a height of 186 cm, it is rather difficult for me to move freely in a typical Khrushchev or Brezhnevka with hanging light sources.

Optimum

What is optimal height ceiling in the house?

If we talk only about the subjective perception of the room - the more the better. A high room, even with a relatively small area, looks spacious. However, with a significant ceiling height in full height, sorry for the involuntary pun, there is a problem of heating.

Warm air tends to rise, and in order to provide comfortable temperature at floor level, under the ceiling it will have to be heated to +30 + 35C. Excess air heating attic floor means an unjustified increase in heat loss: they are always proportional to the temperature delta with the street.

The problem can be solved in two ways:

With convection heating (using or convectors) - limiting the height of the ceilings to a value of approximately 2.7 meters. In my opinion, this height represents a reasonable compromise between comfort and heat savings;

Clue: standard height floors in new buildings is exactly this - 2.7 meters. In most houses of Soviet projects, it is noticeably smaller - 2.6, 2.5 and even 2.45 m.

In addition, the distribution of heat in a high room will be optimal in the case of a warm floor - water, cable or film. It will provide a comfortable temperature at the level of human growth, without overheating the air near the ceiling.

By the way: in houses with a second light, underfloor heating and infrared heaters are generally the only sources of heat that can provide a comfortable temperature regime. When using convection heating, either heat at the level of the second floor, or severe cold below will be inevitable.

House with a second light. The only reasonable way of heating is underfloor heating.

Higher, even higher

How to increase the height of the ceilings in the house?

If you have panel or monolithic reinforced concrete floors, you can only change the visual perception of the height of the room using tools from the designers' arsenal.

What exactly?

Light colors make objects appear more distant than they really are. The effect is emphasized by the contrasting coloring of the surrounding objects. In other words, if you paint the ceiling in White color, and make the walls dark - the room will look much higher than the actual size;

The same effect can be achieved by playing with lighting. To increase the apparent height of the ceiling, it is organized hidden lighting spotlights or spotlights.

Ceilings on wooden beams give much more room for a real increase in the height of the premises.

If the ceiling is hemmed from above along the bottom of the beams, it is worth removing the filing (usually a board shield) and laying the flooring between the beams, along the cranial bars, or on top of them. Yes, and here the effect will be largely visual, since the beams will be only two or three centimeters higher than the old filing; however, the room will become much more spacious.

More radical way- physical increase in the height of the ceiling. To do this, alas, it is necessary to remove the roof, so the work should be timed to overhaul roofs. The height of the walls is increased due to several additional rows of masonry or new log crowns laid on top of the walls.

The log house can also be raised on jacks by starting under it additional one or two crowns.

Finally, in houses with a floor on wooden beams, it is often practiced to dismantle them with the laying of an insulated screed on the ground. The disadvantage of this method is that windows and thresholds doorways rise noticeably relative to the level of the finished floor.

How to raise ceilings in this way?

The floor is opened with complete dismantling flooring and insulation;

Beams are cut;
The soil is removed and leveled;

The subfloor must not be deepened below the level of the foundation. This is fraught with subsidence of the soil and deformation of the walls.

A sandy or sandy-gravel cushion with a thickness of at least 10-15 centimeters is formed on the ground. It will provide drainage and the absence of freezing of the soil under the floor;
A layer of waterproofing is spread over the sand with an overlap on the walls (as a rule, dense polyethylene acts in this role);
Top laid out concrete preparation- a pillow with a thickness of 8-10 centimeters from low-quality (M-100 - M150) concrete;

After gaining strength, a layer of insulation is laid on top - polystyrene foam or foam plastic with a density of C-35. Thickness is determined by local climatic conditions. Usually it is 40-50 millimeters;
On top of another layer of waterproofing film on stands 15-25 mm high, a galvanized reinforcing mesh with a cell of 10-15 cm and a wire thickness of 5-6 mm is laid out;
It is poured with a screed 8-10 cm thick. After gaining strength and leveling the surface in any convenient way (self-leveling floor, plywood, etc.), you can lay the finish coating.

Concrete should come into contact with the wood of the walls only through the waterproofing. In its absence, the lower crowns of the log house or the frame of the walls will quickly rot.

Materials and Solutions

Reinforced concrete floors

What finishing options are used for slab and monolithic reinforced concrete floors?

The simplest (but not the cheapest) way to make the ceiling perfectly flat is to order a stretch ceiling. In Crimea, where I live, it will cost from 400 rubles per square meter. It is useful for the future owner to know several features of this solution:

The minimum distance from the ceiling to the web of the tension flow is about 4 centimeters. Accordingly, the room will become albeit slightly, but lower;

The tension force of the canvas is about 70 kgf per linear meter of the baguette, which is attached to the walls. Accordingly, all walls must have sufficient strength in relation to the horizontal load. Plasterboard partitions erected with a reinforced frame, and the boxes multilevel ceilings from drywall for attaching a baguette, they are strengthened with cuts from the profile;

Glossy ceilings are made from the thinnest vinyl film. For its tension, the air in the room is heated by a gas heat gun to 65 - 75 degrees; after cooling, the canvas stretches and becomes perfectly even.

Gloss visually makes the room taller due to the ghostly reflection of its interior, which is a definite plus. However, a thin film is not durable: it can be damaged even by a shot of a champagne cork;

Matte fabric ceilings cheaper and stronger than glossy ones. However, due to the peculiarities of the connection of the canvases, the seams remain visible on them;
If you plan to hide under stretch ceiling hidden lamps, platforms for them and electrical wiring must be installed in advance. At the location of the lamp, an intensifying ring is glued to the canvas, after which the fabric or film inside the ring is cut out.

The ceiling under the stretch ceiling should be pre-treated with antiseptic primer. An airtight sheet will restrict the ventilation of the surface of the slabs or monolith, and it is desirable that fungus does not take advantage of this.

How to finish reinforced concrete floor if stretch ceilings are undesirable for some reason (for example, due to the low height of the room)?

The most obvious way is to level the ceiling gypsum plaster(Rotband, HP Start and so on) followed by puttying on the fiberglass mesh.

In this case, do-it-yourself finishing is done like this:

The ceiling is cleaned of whitewash and old plaster (of course, if any). This work is easiest to do with a hard steel spatula, having previously moistened the surface abundantly with water two or three times with a small interval using a spray gun or a wide brush;
At the slab floor, they are cut (cleaned of cement mortar old seal) seams. Tools - a chisel and a hammer or a small pick;
The entire surface of the overlap is primed with adhesive primer (concrete contact) with the addition of an antiseptic;
Beacon profiles are attached to the ceiling according to the level, in one horizontal plane. For their fastening, it is better to use not plaster or putty, but building gypsum - it seizes in 3-7 minutes, and not in 30-40;
The plaster is thrown or smeared on the ceiling with a medium spatula or a rectangular trowel. After the section between the profiles 1 - 1.5 meters long is filled, the excess is removed with a long rule. As a rule, you will have to go through each section several times, with re-filling the gaps;

The plaster layer should not be thicker than 3 cm. If the differences between the floor slabs exceed this value, it is better to prefer a suspended or stretch ceiling.

After the plaster has dried, we move on to puttying. Gypsum putty (I personally liked ABS Saten the most) is applied with a narrow (10-12 cm) spatula on a medium one (30-35 cm) and spread on the ceiling with sliding movements as thin as possible.

After puttying a section 1–1.5 meters long, a sheet of reinforcing glass mesh with a cell of about 2 mm is pressed into the putty with the same spatula. The second layer of putty covers the fiberglass, completely hiding its texture;

The last step is sanding. I use an inexpensive vibrating sander for this purpose with #80 and #120 sanding meshes for the first and second pass, respectively.

It is necessary to grind the ceiling with oblique lighting, emphasizing the slightest irregularities, and with the obligatory use of personal protective equipment - glasses and a respirator or gauze bandage. Gypsum dust strongly irritates the mucous membranes of the eyes and nasopharynx.

Which ceiling is better to make in a room with high humidity - a bathroom, toilet or combined bathroom?

Here are the types of finishes that are most resistant to moisture:

Stretch ceilings already mentioned by me;
Plaster ceilings using cement mixtures. The technology of their application is fundamentally no different from gypsum. If gypsum at high humidity soaks and becomes plastic, then the cement completely retains its mechanical properties;

To level the surface on the plaster, use putty on white cement. It will show through the paint much less.

Suspended - from wall and ceiling plastic panels.

How to build a panel ceiling?

For this you will need:

Ceiling guide profiles UD (27x28 mm) with a total length equal to the perimeter of the room with a small margin for trimming;
Ceiling profiles CD (60x27 mm) with a length equal to or greater than the length or width of the room (they come in 3 and 4 meters). Their number should allow mounting the crate with a step of no more than 60 centimeters - with a larger crate step, the plastic panels will sag after 1 - 1.5 years;

Hint from Captain Obvious: the batten is mounted perpendicular to the panels. The maximum length of the panels can be up to 6 meters, so they are usually oriented parallel to more long wall rooms.

Direct suspensions are mounted along each ceiling profile with a step of no more than 80 cm;
For their fastening and for mounting the guide ceiling profile, a dowel is used - screws 6x60 - 8x80 mm;
The profiles are connected to each other and to the hangers with self-tapping metal screws 9 mm long. The same self-tapping screws, but already 25 mm long, are hemmed to the panel profiles;
The suspended ceiling itself is assembled from PVC wall or ceiling panels of the maximum available width with seamless tongue-and-groove locks;

Stop your choice on white glossy panels. They visually almost do not differ from the glossy stretch ceiling; at the same time, they are much stronger and extremely easy to clean: the surface can be wiped with a damp sponge and any non-abrasive detergent.

Vinyl, polyurethane or foam skirting can be used to frame the ceiling and to hide its connection to the walls. The latter is the cheapest and most easy to install: it can be glued to walls and ceilings on any universal adhesive, sealant or acrylic putty.

The preparation of the floor surface is reduced only to treatment with antiseptic soil: a suspended ceiling, like a stretch ceiling, will drastically impair its ventilation and can lead to fungus damage.

The construction of the ceiling is carried out in the following order:

A ceiling guide profile is attached to the wall along the perimeter of the room in a horizontal plane. Mounting step - 50 - 60 cm;
Perpendicular to the panels on the floor, the position of the ceiling profiles is marked;
Along each of them, with a step of 80 cm, direct suspensions are attached with dowel-screws;
Ceiling profiles, cut to size with metal scissors, are inserted into the guides and pressed against the ceiling with the ears of the suspensions bent inward;
Several threads are stretched between the guide profiles, which will serve as guidelines for mounting the ceiling profiles in the same plane. Each of them is lowered until the thread touches, after which the ears of the suspensions are attracted to it with metal screws. The free part of the ears is bent up;
Ceiling profiles are screwed to the rails;

Parallel to one of the walls, the first panel is attached, cut to fit the ceiling.

Hint: It is most convenient to cut PVC with a grinder with any abrasive disc. And in this case, eye and respiratory protection is important: fine plastic dust evenly fills the entire volume of the room and settles very slowly.

The panel is attached to the profile at a minimum distance from the wall with self-tapping screws passing through. On the other side of the panel, self-tapping screws attract the protrusion of its tongue-and-groove lock to the profile;
The next panel is inserted into the lock first, after which its protrusion is also attracted to the ceiling profile with self-tapping screws - and so on across the entire width of the room;
The last panel is again fastened with self-tapping screws passing through it at a minimum distance from the wall. The fastener caps will be hidden by the ceiling plinth;
The plinth is glued last, after it is completed fine finish walls.

Beam ceilings

What is the rough ceiling made of on the beams?

Here are the main materials for filing a draft ceiling:

Edged and unedged board. A board shield is usually used for laying insulation on it. The board can both be hemmed to the beams from below, and fit between them, on the cranial bars;

grooved board;
Plywood 10 - 18 mm thick (depending on the step between the beams);
OSB of the same thickness.

What to make a finishing ceiling?

Here are the finishing materials that can be used for this purpose:

Gypsum board and gypsum fiber sheet;

It is better to use not GVL, but GKL. Even if the sheet breaks during transportation or installation, it can be used: the fragments of the gypsum core will be held in one plane by a kraft paper shell. It is enough to securely fix the GKL in the area of damage.

Wooden lining;
Already familiar to us plastic wall panels;
Plywood. Yes, yes, it can serve as a decorative finishing coating. Plywood cut into squares is varnished; the gaps between adjacent sheets are covered with strips of lath, painted in a contrasting color.

How to lay a rough ceiling on cranial bars?

Its device is not complicated:

On side surfaces logs are stuffed with bars measuring 50x50 mm;
A cut-off board with a thickness of 20 - 25 mm is laid on them (depending on the distance between the lags);

With the same success, you can hem the flooring with wall panels. They are attracted to the boards with self-tapping screws through the protrusions of the locks or sit on glue. The starting profile or a plastic corner acts as a edging.

How to hem a plank shield along the beams from below?

Each board is attached to the beam at the point of their intersection with two nails hammered apart (at an angle with an inclination in different directions). This method of fastening will not allow the weight of the ceiling and insulation to pull out the fasteners.

How to do wooden ceiling with your own hands from the lining on the beams?

The lining is fastened through kleimers - galvanized steel curly plates. It is better to fasten them to the beams with self-tapping screws. Kleimers allow, if necessary, to disassemble the ceiling without damaging the lining.

Galvanized kleimer - a simple device for fastening the tongue-and-groove lock of the lining to the crate.

The ceiling edging is traditionally done with a wooden plinth. The transverse gaps between the boards connected along the length are hidden by thin slats.

How to fix drywall?

It is attracted to a solid board shield with self-tapping screws in increments of 20-25 centimeters. But when installing on beams or rafters (in the attic or in the attic), under the GKL or GVL, you will have to assemble the crate. I mounted it like this:

A vapor barrier film was hemmed along the rafters with insulation laid between them (5 cm of mineral wool and 5 cm of foam plastic with a density of C-25). The goal is to prevent wetting of the insulation and rotting of the rafters. A furniture stapler was used for filing the film;

The UD ceiling guide profile was fixed to the gables. In my case they are panoramic windows, so the profile had to be attached directly to the plastic frames;
Along the attic to the rafters, a ceiling profile was hemmed on direct suspensions. At the joints of the inclined and horizontal sections of the ceiling, two profiles were mounted next to each other;
GKL sheets were fastened across the profiles of the crate. I used 12.5mm wall drywall instead of the thinner ceiling drywall because the bottom of the sloping ceiling sections are only 1.9 meters high and can be mechanically stressed. For fastening, phosphated self-tapping screws 25 mm long with a step of 15–20 cm were used;

The seams were puttied with ABS gypsum putty and glued with rolled fiberglass, planted on PVA glue, after which they were covered with another layer of putty.

Special mention deserves how the ventilation of the space above the ceiling is arranged. From there, air is taken exhaust fan through one of the gables of the attic; at its corners, four supply ventilation grilles are installed in the finished ceiling.

In the photo - lattices for ventilation of the space between the ceiling and the roof of the attic.

For painting the drywall thread were used:

In dry rooms - an office and a bedroom - latex water-dispersion paint, resistant to dry abrasion;
In the bathroom - waterproof rubber paint on water based. It reliably protects the GKL from water splashes and can be washed with any cleaning agents, except for abrasive ones. The texture of the painted surface is semi-gloss, with a slight sheen.

Conclusion

Of course, in a relatively small article, I did not mention all possible solutions. To learn more about how to sheathe the ceiling in a private house, the video in this article will help the dear reader. I look forward to your comments and additions. Good luck, comrades!

Wooden beams are one of the varieties of the basis of the interfloor ceiling in the house. They are installed with their ends on load-bearing walls, and the gaps between them are closed with boards or sheet, panel or plate materials. Depending on whether the beams will be decorative elements of the interior space of the premises, they are either left inside, sheathed from above, or covered with ceiling materials from below. Let's consider both options.

So, it was decided to leave the beams in the form of a bar as a decorative element. What is done in this case, what work is carried out. The easiest option is to lay boards 30-40 mm thick on top of them, which will determine either the draft ceiling or the finishing one.

As for the clean design. To do this, use tongue-and-groove boards with a moisture content of not more than 20%. Before laying them on top of the beams, the latter are leveled in a horizontal plane by removing a layer of protruding surfaces, for which an electric planer is used. You can, of course, carry out alignment by raising or lowering each beam, but this is more difficult option. Moreover, if high-quality beams were chosen as the supporting ceiling structures, then their dimensional parameters are quite accurate, which will reduce the number of layers removed by the power tool.

After the leveling work, the tongue-and-groove boards are laid, as if they were mounted on the floor. It is done like this:

The first board is laid with a spike towards the wall with a gap of 10 mm from the wall surface (in case of thermal and moisture expansion of wood).
The board is aligned with the wall.
The board is fastened to wooden beams with self-tapping screws, the length of which is twice the width of the board.
A 50x50 mm rail is fixed along the beams parallel to the board. The distance from it to the first board is 2-3 cm more than the thickness of the already laid ceiling element.
The second board is installed with a spike in the groove.
Between it and the clogged rail, several wedges are driven in, which will tightly press the second board to the first.
Fastening with self-tapping screws.
The rail is dismantled and moved with the mount further the same distance. And the whole process of installation work is repeated.

What happens in the end. The load-bearing beams are visible from inside the premises of the house; a plank flooring is laid along them without gaps and cracks. It remains only to finish general design inside: paint or varnish.

As for the cover itself:

on the upper side, the tongue-and-groove boards are closed with a waterproofing membrane;
a heater is laid on top;
another layer of waterproofing.

Second option

If the load-bearing beams will serve as a support for the floor of the upper floor, then the process of forming both the floor and the ceiling is done differently. Along the beams (along) cranial bars are punched, to which segments of the finishing ceiling material are attached from below. It can be all the same boards, plywood, drywall and others.

On top of the resulting structure, a cake of waterproofing, insulation and another waterproofing layer is laid. The last material is laid on the beams. And already on them the floor of the upper floor is formed.

It turns out that on the lower floor the beams will not be visible to their entire height, but only to its part. This increases the amount of materials used for finishing. And one moment. In this design, as such, there is no draft ceiling. Here, most likely, there will be a draft floor, which is mounted on wooden beams (top).

Bearing beams are not an element of decor

Let's start with the question of how to hem the ceiling along the wooden beams in the house. In principle, there are no restrictions on the choice of material in this situation. Use:

plywood
OSB boards,
drywall,
plastic panels.

There is another question here, whether a draft ceiling on wooden beams is needed in this case. It is necessary, because the finish is just the outer side of the structure, which has a low bearing capacity. And the draft ceiling is an element with a high bearing capacity.

How to make a draft ceiling

Bearing beams - several beams, logs or boards laid in parallel (thickness 50 mm and above), which form a kind of crate in the interfloor overlap. Draft ceiling - materials laid along the lower ends of the supporting beams, forming a ceiling plane. They are attached to the beams with self-tapping screws from the bottom side or metal fasteners (usually corners) from the top side. Often, both types of fasteners are used at the same time.

The main task of the work foreman is to assemble sheet or board materials, boards, in one plane formed by beams. And according to the laid materials it will be necessary to think over decoration ceiling structure.

Let's go back to the draft design. Look at the photo below, where it is assembled from OSB boards. Installation of plates and sheets is carried out in a strict sequence, where certain rules are followed:

sheet and slab materials are joined only on floor beams;
a small gap is left between them within 5 mm in the form of a compensation gap in case of expansion wooden products, this also applies to drywall.

Pay attention to the photo, where you can clearly see that the beams are not laid edged boards topped with a waterproofing membrane. This is a draft ceiling structure.

Hemmed beams with panel, sheet or slab products - Smooth surface, which can be sheathed, in principle, in any way. Such a ceiling is a surface on which you can attach suspended structure from drywall, plastic panels, metal slats, OSB boards and other finishing materials. To do this, use standard technology using a rack frame made of wood or metal profiles.

How to sheathe the ceiling with plastic panels

Let's take a look at the upholstery plastic panels because it doesn't happen often. This finish is best used in rooms with high humidity.

The low corner of the room is determined by measuring the height of the ceiling in the corners. The smallest size will be the starting point in the process of finishing the ceiling.
In this place, a size of 5 cm is laid down.
On the set point with a level, better than a laser one, lines are drawn that define the horizontal plane.
The supporting profile is installed along the lines and attached to the walls with self-tapping screws. Mounting step 40-50 cm.
Direct suspensions are installed along the beams with a step of 40-60 cm.
Ceiling profiles are inserted into the profiles every 40-60 cm, to which they are attached with self-tapping bugs at the level of the installed suspensions.
Ceiling profiles (each) exhibited building level horizontally and at this level they are attached to direct suspensions with bedbugs.

The frame is assembled, you can proceed to the installation of plastic panels. Assembly starts from the wall. The panels are laid perpendicular to the laid profiles. The first panel is laid against the wall with a spike to the surface. Be sure to leave between finishing material and the wall surface has an expansion gap of 5-10 mm. The panels are assembled according to standard technology with bedbugs screwed into the groove.

In the same way, the ceiling is sheathed along the supporting beams using drywall, plywood, MDF panels, OSB boards and other ceiling materials. Of course, except for the stretch ceiling, for which it does not matter what is under it. The main thing is smooth walls.

Regardless of which finish option is chosen, wooden beams must be treated with antiseptics and fire retardants. The solutions are applied one on top of the other, first antiseptic. Each layer must be completely dry.

The natural beauty of the wood is always a priority, so it is not recommended to paint the beams. It is better to cover with a colorless varnish.

If the beams have become an element of decor, then you need to take care of their geometric evenness. Optimally - to carry out work on part-time work before installation. If they are installed, it is worth trying to align the ends and the lower plane with an electric planer. This is not as simple as it might seem at first glance.

If they are hemmed with a finished ceiling (plasterboard, plywood and other materials), the lower surface can be leveled with slats or metal profiles. Or, as described with plastic panels, with direct hangers. The latter are more often used if the difference in the plane of the beams is significant. With small differences, wooden slats are also suitable.

The hemmed ceiling is now even more popular than the whitewashed one in the old days. To date, materials that can sheathe the ceiling in the markets and in stores are just a huge amount. Everything can be found - both plastic, and wood, and under a tree, and plasterboard, up to steel plates and under a brick. During material selection a large number of questions - cost, durability, rationality, aesthetics, and so on. We still offer to figure out how to hem the ceiling will be better. However, in this article we will review the options for finishing the ceiling and give the characteristics of the materials, their advantages, which justifies the choice and, of course, the existing disadvantages. We will talk about installation technologies a little later.

General information on sheathed ceilings

Ceiling filing technology is not something complicated and accessible only experienced craftsmen. These are not stretch ceilings, which will be somewhat problematic to install with your own hands. In our case, no special tools or equipment will be required, and high professional knowledge will not be needed. Even, we can say that the skills of working with materials will not be too important, because. all of them are easily either cut with a knife or sawn, and also have a small specific gravity, they are simply marked out, fixed with ordinary self-tapping screws or special fasteners for this.

Let's say right away that one of the main advantages of sheathed or suspended ceilings is that inside and through them you can lay wiring and communications. Another common advantage is that there is no need for extensive preparation of the base surface prior to installation. If you still need to level the ceiling, then you can read the article. Well, with a rough binder, you don't need it. The frame of the future ceiling will hold up perfectly, and all defects and irregularities will be hidden.

Overview of materials for finishing the ceiling

Drywall

Drywall is the most common material. It is perfect for ceilings in wooden houses, for apartments and country houses.

Advantages of plasterboard ceilings:

Easy to mount;
Not high cost;
Simple operation;
Long service life;
It has excellent sound insulation and the necessary thermal insulation;
An additional plus - with the skillful exposure to moisture, it can take any curved shape, which will be a convenient moment when arranging exquisite structures.

The last property can be attributed to the disadvantages. After all, with excessive humidity or under intense vaporization (kitchen), GKL reduces its strength and begins to deform, up to the point that complete scattering occurs. Accordingly, the bathroom and kitchen will fall away technical parameters this material.

GKL is a light material (15-19 kg per m² of surface), therefore, an aluminum profile must be used for the manufacture of frames. By the way, it is fast and convenient. Besides, drywall sheets on wooden rails will serve a little less. This is due to the fact that wood is a more living material. What does it mean? This means that under the influence of temperature and humidity changes, it narrows and expands from time to time. Therefore, such deformations negatively affect the weak fastenings of the GKL, respectively, reducing the service life of the entire structure.

PVC panels

PVC panels are also not very expensive material that meets the basic requirements for ceiling filing. It has good sound and heat insulation. However, it has a serious drawback - easy flammability. Modern manufacturers are trying to improve PVC panels with various additives that should reduce combustion, but in fact, so far this is not very effective. And to be more precise, it does not help.

Material advantages:

Ease of assembly design;
Light weight of the whole structure;
Ease of care;
High service life;
Non-susceptibility to the formation of mold and fungi;
Large selection of colors and textures.

PVC panels, as well as individual lamellas, can be matched to any home interior.

TO PVC ceiling panels are attached to PVC profiles. During installation, you must be careful, because. the material is quite brittle. In the main living rooms these profiles can be replaced with wooden bars, however, this is unacceptable in the bathroom due to expansion during the set of humidity.

Please note that if PVC panels realize improper care, then the service life of the ceiling will not be too long.

However, with proper installation and proper care, the original appearance of the material will remain for more than 15 years.

metal slats

Another option for finishing the ceiling - slatted ceilings. Reiki made "under the metal" or real metal is also quite a popular type of filing the ceiling in the house. By the way, probably comes third in popularity. Quite a popular material for finishing bathrooms. What other options you can find out from the article ““

Material advantages:

The material itself does not require any processing. The surface of the base of the ceiling does not need to be prepared;
The absence of combustible materials in its composition. 100% fire safety. Spraying, which is applied to give color to the rails, does not count, because. it is only a few microns thick;
Ease. Can be mounted on any ceiling. However, it is not recommended to use them in wooden houses.

The material has its own big minus - the lack of sound insulation as well as all metal materials. That is why it is necessary to carry out installation with soundproof materials.

Metal rails are easy to clean. However, you need to be careful in the process, because. the surface of the material is easily scratched by various abrasive materials.

MDF boards and panels

Wood fiber is also an excellent option for finishing the ceiling in an apartment or house.

Material advantages:

Perfectly retains heat and delays sound;
Can be used in rooms with high humidity. In some embodiments, additional protection may be required.
Surface lamination provides long term service and ease of cleaning;
Ease of assembly;
The small mass of the material makes it possible to mount lightweight frames;

The main disadvantage of the material- Most of the MDF ceiling boards sold are not finished. Therefore, painting and lamination will be required. But reverse side is the cost of the material.

Tree

Another material under consideration that can be used to hem the ceiling is wood. It can be distinguished into a separate group, which includes lining, as well as various euro types of cladding.

In order to understand all the charm, beauty and comfort of the material, just look at various photos ceilings lined with wood. The tree has many advantages. The first is durability. However, the main advantage is the natural naturalness, as well as the properties inherent in wood to create a favorable microclimate and comfort in the room.

Material characteristics:

Good heat retention. Additional thermal insulation is not required. Preliminary preparation ceiling surfaces are also not required.
The material "breathes" well. This means that it passes air well, which contributes to the ventilation of the ceiling space.

There are no cons, but there are some inconveniences:

Sufficiently large weight, which will require the arrangement of a massive frame;
High cost. However, here it is worth saying that quality costs money.

So we examined the main materials for finishing the ceiling. Installation technology and how to hem the ceiling with each of the materials will be considered in other articles.

Wooden beams are structures that are found not only in private houses, but also in old buildings of a 3-5-story type. To make the ceiling surface even and suitable for finishing cladding, it is necessary to make a high-quality rough ceiling on wooden beams. Works are available for do-it-yourself work with a minimum set of tools and materials.

Before hemming the ceiling surface, you should understand the layers that make up interfloor overlap in a wooden house.

Overlay layers from top to bottom:

Most upper layer- boardwalk, which can be the basis under top coat or perform cleaning functions.
Vapor barrier membrane is a required layer. Membrane fabric prevents the formation of condensate on wooden structures, prevents the formation of wet areas, mold and fungus growth.
Thermal insulation. Fits in any case, regardless of whether the premises are residential or not above the floor. If the attic is not residential, the energy efficiency of the house increases, residential - the sound insulation of the floors increases.
Waterproofing. The layer is designed to protect the insulation and wooden structures from moisture. If you do not lay waterproofing, moist air, hot steam, rising to the ceiling, will destroy thermal insulation material– which will reduce the practical characteristics of the product.
Draft ceiling- the last layer, which is finished with a finishing lining.

Sometimes boardwalk is left unfinished, especially when planks are used. good quality. If, after the arrangement of the ceilings, the flooring is to be laid on the floor above, then a layer of vapor barrier is laid on top of the insulation, then a wooden floor base can be laid.

How to hem a rough ceiling on wooden beams

The range of products is wide, so when choosing how to hem the ceiling in a private house, you should pay attention to the interior design of the room:

ceiling sheet materials: chipboard, fiberboard, plywood;
plastic decor resists moisture well, but you will have to make high-quality vapor barrier to prevent condensation from accumulating;
wood will become the best choice affordable in price and quality.

In rooms with changes in humidity levels, temperature fluctuations, resinous wood should not be chosen so that the resin does not drip down when released. Edged boards are suitable for hemming the ceiling, the price of which is from $ 80 per m3, plywood will cost less - from $ 2.6 per sheet.

Tools and materials for work

To get the job done you will need:

board 25 mm;
fasteners: nails or self-tapping screws 45-55 mm;
cranial timber for arranging boards above beams;
sheets of mineral wool for insulation or mineral wool with dry sawdust in a ratio of 50:50;
waterproofing (film) and vapor barrier membrane.

If the filing of the ceiling on wooden beams is made with plywood, a rail and bars will come in handy for decorating the frame from the crate.

Of the tools come in handy: a saw or a jigsaw, a hammer, a stapler, a screwdriver, a pencil, a tape measure, a construction or laser level, square, strong support or stepladder. You will also need to stock up on personal protective equipment: gloves, mask.

Advice! The board is a more practical material - there is no need to buy additional slats for the crate. Fastening boards is made directly on the beams, it is stronger and cheaper.

Boarding ceiling boards

Having figured out how to hem the ceiling along wooden beams, you need to know how to do it.

Algorithm of work on the installation of a wooden subfloor:

fix the boards on the logs with screws or nails;
lay insulation, waterproofing material on top of the flooring.

Attention! It is important to prepare the boards according to the size of the ceiling so that there are no gaps or gaps during fastening.

The option of fastening the boards from the bottom of the log is the simplest, but in this case the beams are covered, it is difficult to get to them, if necessary. It is much better to sheathe the logs with a board on top.

Stages of work:

fix the cranial bars on the beams;
lay boards on a bar;
lay out sheets of heat, vapor barrier, and materials can be laid out both above and below the boards;
close the structure with plywood or other material.

In this case, the logs and the cranial bar will be visible and will become a good decor for the room.

On a note! All elements made of wood must be properly dried, pre-treated with impregnations from rot, bugs, and fire.

Ceiling lining with plywood

This option requires the arrangement of a crate, which will become a frame for mounting plywood sheets. When choosing how to hem the ceiling, it is worth evaluating the evenness of the surface - plywood sheets on the crate help to hide all the flaws in the evenness of the ceiling.

Advice! The option with plywood is chosen by the owners of houses, where the ceilings still retain their strength qualities, but have lost their aesthetic appeal. In addition, this design will withstand a thick layer of insulation.

Work is carried out in the following order:

fix the vapor barrier membrane on the beams with a stapler;
from above, form a frame from a bar (40x60 mm) with a step equal to half a plywood sheet;
hem sheets of plywood on the crate, fasteners with self-tapping screws around the entire perimeter and crosswise;
lay sheets of insulation.

You can lay out insulation between the crate timber, and then hem the plywood - the choice remains with the owner. The main thing is that the sheets of material fit together without gaps and align the horizontal level of the frame to obtain a flat ceiling plane.

Is it necessary to process the draft ceiling

Having figured out how to hem the ceiling in a wooden house, do not forget that the design requires additional protection especially if there are fluctuations in humidity levels in the room. Processing includes the following steps: sanding for smoothness, puttying the seams between the sheets and fastener points. As soon as the putty mixture dries, sand the surface again and treat it with an impregnation with antiseptic and antiprene.

If the ceiling will be sewn up with plasterboard, they are mounted on the rough ceiling metal profiles, on which the sheet material is then hemmed. And you can leave the plywood coating without decor, impregnated with tinting impregnation, matte or glossy varnish, paints.