Do-it-yourself round timber house. Mini-house - a compact log house from a member of FORUMHOUSE. Loghouse construction technology

Any new life begins with the construction of your home. This was embedded in the minds of our ancestors.
Unfortunately, now these instincts have been replaced by other priorities, more modern and adapted to the modern way of existence.
Some people dream of owning an apartment with a mortgage; those who are richer build houses with the help of professionals. But deep down, on an instinctive level, any man wants to build at least a dacha on his own, with his own hands.

Are you a real man who is not afraid of physical labor? Then the house you build will be charged with positive energy, love and warmth. The ancestors believed that a house built on their own could always protect the family from all adversities, both external and internal.

Wooden houses have a special energy and have a special aesthetic appearance. With the right choice of material and compliance with special technologies log houses can last for many decades. Wood is a versatile material and is used in construction in almost every corner of the world. And most importantly, it is environmentally friendly and breathable, “living” material.

Where to begin?

So, we need to start with the right choice material. This means that when choosing logs for cutting walls, it is necessary to take into account the climatic zone in which we live. The thickness of the logs should be selected so that the walls do not freeze during frost in winter. Below is a useful table that shows the freezing temperature of a log of a particular diameter, as well as, for comparison, the thickness of a brick wall with a similar degree of freezing - compare for yourself.

Before we start installing a wooden frame, the logs need to be prepared. To do this, we must debark the logs, dry them and treat them with a special antiseptic. To ensure high-quality impregnation of wood, the antiseptic is applied in several layers.

When working with antiseptic, precautions must be taken.

Log structure

Logs laid horizontally on top of each other are called crowns. The very first crown is laid from logs larger diameter than the subsequent ones.
We make waterproofing, lay the lower crown with roofing felt.
When assembling the crowns, you need to take into account that the logs are placed in different butts, in grooves with a width of 10-12 centimeters. We also cut grooves for the internal walls measuring 9-10 centimeters. The logs are settled with a wooden mallet.
If necessary, logs are spliced ​​lengthwise using special locks.
The logs are secured together with wooden dowels. Varied in height, in 1.5 meter increments. Holes for dowels are made with a margin.
The corners are fastened with one of the types of notches. Internal walls are fixed in " dovetail" After installing the log house, the horizontal cracks between the logs are caulked with flax or jute tow.
It must be remembered that during the first two years it produces a sediment of 3-4%. Therefore, after this time, the seams must be caulked again.
These are the main points worth paying attention to.

Building a bathhouse from a log frame is not an easy task, but the construction technology, the choice of materials and even the exact sequence of actions have long been known and worked out by many craftsmen.

This material explains all the key points that will help in building a log bathhouse: from laying the foundation to interior decoration.

The steam bath has been known since the time of the Scythians, who carried with them special bath tents and camp heaters. And in the 21st century, the Russian bathhouse has not become some kind of archaism, having successfully withstood centuries-old competition with bathtubs and showers. Get rid of many ailments, remove from the body harmful substances, accumulated in city everyday life, to give the body complete rest - all this is achieved by visiting the bathhouse for more than one and a half thousand years.

Which design is preferable, how to choose a place to place it, how it is designed in general - you will find answers to many “bathroom” questions in this article.

Place and layout of the bathhouse

One of the important additions to the bathhouse itself at all times was a pond with fresh water, located nearby - in the absence of another source of water supply, water was taken from it. The special charm of the proximity of such a reservoir lies in the possibility of a contrasting ablution - after steaming in a Russian bathhouse, running out of it and plunging into the cool water of the reservoir. In addition, the natural reservoir made it possible to quickly cope with a fire in the bathhouse, which occurred quite often due to violations in the construction of the stove.

Bound today country bathhouse there is no particular need for a natural reservoir, but it is still convenient if it is located near, say, an artificial reservoir - the final decision always remains with the owner of the dacha.

The main criteria for choosing a place for a bathhouse: distance from the road, the presence of natural or artificial fencing from outside spectators (dense bushes, tree crowns, fences, outbuildings), fire distance from the main residential building of at least 15 meters.

The main rooms of the bathhouse are the dressing room, washing room and steam room (the last two rooms can be combined into one). The size of the dressing room is determined at the rate of 1.4 m 2 per bather, the size of the washing room is 1.2 m 2 per person. In addition, the dressing room should have space for furniture (a locker for clothes, a bench for sitting) and for storing fuel (a box for coal or firewood). In the washing room you will need space for containers with hot and cold water, stoves and space for sunbeds.

For example, for a small family (no more than 4 people) a bathhouse of the following dimensions is suitable: external size - 4x4 m; dressing room - 1.5x2.4 m; washing room - 2x2 m; steam room - 2x1.5 m. True, in a bathhouse of this size you can’t really turn around - but it also takes up little space.

In general, the size of the bathhouse is directly related to the size of the area that can be allocated for it. If the area is significant, then the bathhouse can be expanded by adding a shower cabin, lounge areas, etc.

In temperate and cold climatic zones it would be correct if the entrance to the bathhouse is located in the south, and window openings- on the western (southwestern) side of it. This location of the entrance will greatly simplify the use of the bathhouse in the winter season, since snowdrifts on the south side melt faster, and the direction of the windows will allow longer illumination of its premises. sunlight.

Bathhouse construction - stages

There are several of them:

1. Procurement of basic materials.
2. Selecting and laying the foundation.
3. Creating a foundation for a stove (if necessary).
4. Creating a floor and sewer system baths
5. Assembling a log bathhouse.
6. Roof construction.
7. Formation of a blind area around the perimeter.
8. Caulking bath walls.
9. Laying or installing a stove, installing a chimney.
10. Electricity and water supply for the bathhouse.
11. Installation of doors and installation of shelves.

Preparation of basic materials for the bath

The classic and most successful construction material for a Russian bathhouse has been and will remain wood - wood easily copes with waterlogging in bathhouses, removing excess moisture out.

What wood is suitable for building a bathhouse? As a rule, baths are built from round timber of pine or spruce with a diameter of no more than 250 mm - only wood will create an indescribable internal atmosphere in the steam room. However, in some places it is better to include wood of other species in the design of the bathhouse - oak, larch and linden. For example, lower crowns and floor joists made of oak will allow you to get a truly durable bathhouse. A nuance - the oak must be cut down “in its sap” (i.e., not dead wood) and dried under a canopy. The lower crowns (no more than 4) following the first oak crown are best made of larch. The final crowns, elements of interior decoration and cladding should be made of linden or white spruce - their wood removes moisture better than others.

When do you need to stockpile wood for building a bathhouse? Round wood, wood for interior decoration, must be cut down in winter, during the period when tree trunks contain the least amount of moisture - it is easier to dry. In addition, not the entire tree trunk is suitable for building a bathhouse - only the middle part of the trunk is suitable, i.e. the top and butt are not suitable.

An important criterion when selecting wood will be the absence of cavities and streaks of resin on the coniferous round timber, dryness, sanded surface, absence of rotten areas and places of wood-boring beetle damage.

Bathhouse foundation

The main types of foundations for the construction of baths are strip and columnar, depending on local soils. Regardless of the type of foundation chosen, it is necessary to lay them with the utmost care - preferably to the depth of soil freezing. Preliminary work before laying a foundation of any type: clearing the site of debris, completely removing the top layer of soil to a depth of 200 mm (we remove the fertile layer).

To choose the right foundation, you need to determine the type of local soil, which can belong to one of three main groups:

1. Weak soil consists of peat, silt, silty sand (contains a lot of water), fluid or fluid-plastic clay.
2. Heaving soil (subject to seasonal swelling) consists of sand (silty or fine), clay components (clay, loam and sandy loam).
3. Slightly heaving soil is formed by rocks, medium and large grains of sand.

Columnar (pile) foundation for a bathhouse

Installed on slightly heaving soils: it consists of pillars laid in the corners of the bathhouse, as well as at the junction of internal and external walls. If the distance between two adjacent foundation pillars is more than 2 m, another pillar is laid between them. The depth of laying the columnar foundation is at least 1.5 m.

The pillars for such a foundation can be easily made directly at the site where the bathhouse was built; the material for them can be red brick, rubble stone, bound with concrete mortar. The main (corner) brick pillars for a columnar foundation are usually square in shape, with a side of 380 mm, auxiliary ones are rectangular, with a cross-section of 380x250 mm. If necessary, the main pillars are made of two bricks - with a section of 510x510 mm. Saving rubble stone and brick during the construction of a columnar foundation is achieved by filling the foundation pits with sand - half their depth; coarse sand is laid in layers (each layer is 100–150 mm), filled with water and compacted.

When building a bathhouse with your own hands, you can also make foundation pillars yourself. To do this, you will need a collapsible formwork made of boards, coated on the inside with a non-hardening lubricant such as Emulsol. You need to place iron reinforcement inside the assembled formwork, then pour the concrete mixture.

To cast foundation pillars inside holes dug for them, sliding formwork made of roofing iron, plastic, roofing felt or thick cardboard. From the material selected for sliding formwork, a pipe with a diameter of 200 mm is created, which is placed in a foundation pit of a larger diameter - from 300 mm. The free space around the formwork is filled with sand - it will act as a lubricant and prevent the concrete pillar from rising when the soil swells. Reinforcement tied with thick wire is inserted inside the formwork, then a concrete mixture is poured, which must be thoroughly compacted. Using wire handles pre-fixed to the sliding formwork, it is lifted by swaying by 400 mm, sand is poured on the outside and a new portion of concrete is poured.

Asbestos-cement pipes can be used as a columnar foundation; they are durable, not subject to rot, and their outer surface is quite smooth, which allows them not to change their position when the soil swells. Asbestos-cement pipes are also filled with concrete; their underground part must be coated with a mineral-based construction lubricant to reduce the risk of freezing to the ground.

In the spaces between the foundation pillars of the outer walls of the bathhouse and the inner walls of the steam room, brick walls are laid out; their thickness is sufficient - brick and even half a brick. Such brick walls must be buried 250 mm into the ground.

The foundation pillars and brick walls between them are raised to a height of 300–400 mm from the ground level; they need to be leveled with cement mortar and covered with roofing felt for waterproofing. During casting, metal embedments of the required shape are installed at the ends of the pillars - they are designed to fasten the bathhouse frame to the foundation.

When building a bathhouse on heaving soils, it will be necessary to create a strip monolithic foundation.

Sequence of work:

1. Marking a construction site with twine stretched between pegs.
2. Digging a trench required depth(its size is related to the characteristics of local soils, at least 400 mm) and 300 mm wide.
3. Add a layer of sand to the bottom of the trench, then gravel (each 70–100 mm).
4. Installation of formwork.
5. Laying reinforcement.
6. Fill concrete mixture.

The reinforcement laid at the bottom of the foundation trenches must have a cross-section of at least 12 mm; it is laid along each of the two sides of the trench and knitted into a frame, lifted to its middle using brick fragments.

The composition of the concrete mixture is calculated in the proportion 5:3:1 (crushed stone: sand: cement), the sand used must be dry and clean (washed). Calculate the volume of concrete required for pouring strip foundation, quite simple, you just need to measure the width, depth and total length of the foundation. For example, with a width of 0.3 m, a depth of 0.4 m and a total length of 22 m, the following volume of concrete mixture will be required:

• 0.3 x 0.4 x 22 = 2.64 m3

One of the difficulties in preparing a dry concrete mixture is the lack of scales at construction sites. Therefore, this method of calculating dry components for concrete will be useful to you: one 10-liter bucket holds from 15 to 17 kg of crushed stone, sand - from 14 to 17 kg, cement - from 13 to 14 kg.

The formwork is placed in such a way that the concrete foundation cast into it protrudes 100 mm above the ground level. As the concrete mixture is poured into the prepared formwork, its mass must be pierced repeatedly with a bayonet shovel or a wire probe, and the outer side of the formwork must be tapped with a hammer (we eliminate air pockets). Then you need to wait until the foundation is completely cured, approximately 5 to 7 days. When carrying out foundation work in the cold season, after pouring the concrete, the formwork must be covered with PVC film and covered with sawdust or other insulation on top.

After the expiration of the period allocated for drying the cast foundation, we proceed to waterproofing it and lifting it in brick rows (if lifting the bathhouse is not required, then after waterproofing we proceed to the cement screed). Will be needed following materials:

1. Ruberoid.
2. Pipe about 2 m (plastic or metal), with a cross-section from 32 to 57 mm.
3. Masonry mesh.
4. Red brick.
5. Masonry mortar.

Roofing felt (roofing felt) is cut into strips sufficient for laying on a concrete foundation, then laid on top of the foundation with bitumen mastic (for roofing felt - tar mastic). The brick is laid using a single-row ligation method: masonry mortar is laid on a layer of roofing material, the first brick row is laid on it “in a poke” (across the foundation axis), then a masonry mesh is laid, the mortar is laid and the next brick row is laid, but in a “spoon” (along the axis foundation). Each new row brickwork accompanied by laying a masonry mesh, laying “in a spoon” and “in a poke” alternate with each other. In the 3rd or 5th bonded rows of masonry, you need to install ventilation vents from pipe scraps - 5-7 vents are enough for the entire foundation. The number of brick rows depends on the desired foundation height.

The last row of brickwork is covered with a cement screed (mortar composition sand:cement as 1:2 or 1:3), with a 20 mm layer.

Independent foundation for the heater and bath floor

We create the foundation for the stove and assemble the sauna frame. If capital masonry of the heater is planned, it requires an independent foundation, that is, not connected to the main foundation.

The floor in the bathhouse can be clay, earthen, wood or concrete. By and large, it does not need thermal insulation, since the temperature at its level is practically no higher than 30 ° C. A wooden grate, cork mats or mats are usually laid on the surface of the bath floor - their task is to relieve bathhouse visitors from the sharp feeling of cold caused by touching the floor at the exit from the steam room. For self-drying, the flooring is raised above the level of the main floor.

The main disadvantage of a wooden bathhouse floor is its frequent waterlogging - water, penetrating through the cracks between the boards, will accumulate in them, causing rot and the appearance of an unpleasant odor. Wooden covering the floor wears out quickly, becoming unsightly appearance, may require replacement after 6–8 years. Tile tiles would be more practical for bath flooring - they are easier to care for, they are not susceptible to moisture, which easily flows down its surface.

The floors in the bathhouse premises must be placed at different levels: the steam room floor is 150 mm above the level of the washing room floor (we retain heat), the washing room floor is 30 mm below the floor level in the dressing room (we protect it from water).

Since installing a concrete floor covered with ceramic tiles in the washing room and steam room is more profitable than a wooden floor, we will consider this option.

There are several ways to install a concrete floor in a bathhouse. First of all, we prepare the base for the formation of a warm floor - it consists of a 100 mm layer of sand and a 100 mm layer of medium-fraction crushed stone, laid sequentially. Each layer should be well compacted and leveled. Then lay roofing felt on top, covering the walls with it to the height of the future floor.

Further actions:

1. First option- laying a 50 mm layer of felt, expanded clay or slag, on top of a 50 mm layer of concrete with the formation of a slope towards the drain hole. After the concrete has set, it needs to be leveled with a cement solution, after which you can begin tiling work.
2. Second option- 50 mm cement strainer, containing perlite (expanded sand). Mixture composition: perlite: cement: water as 5: 1: 3. After a full week has passed since the perlite concrete was laid, we apply a 30 mm layer of concrete on top with a slope towards the drain. When dealing with perlite, you need to be especially careful - this material is extremely light, even a light breeze blows it away, so you need to work with it indoors without drafts. Observe the proportion of water exactly!

If the base of the bathhouse is raised significantly above the ground level (from 300 mm), flooring will require wooden joists square section (side 150 mm). If the dimensions of the bathhouse premises do not exceed 2000x3000 mm, then the supports for the logs will be the frame logs. For large sizes, additional supports for floor joists will be required; they are pillars made of concrete or brick (250x250 mm) and are placed at a distance of 700–800 mm. Support pillars for logs it is necessary to place them on a multi-layer base of sand, crushed stone and concrete - each 100 mm thick.

Important! Before forming the base to support the logs, it is necessary to make a foundation for the stove and build a sewerage system.

The wood for the logs can be oak, larch or coniferous trees; the logs should be treated with tar or an antiseptic before installation.

Solution flooring in this case it is as follows: the concrete space between the foundation is covered with roofing felt with the walls overlapping to the height of the floor, filled with slag or expanded clay (a layer of 200 mm of foam can be laid between the layer of roofing felt and bulk insulation), a subfloor made of 29 mm edged boards is attached to the underside of the joists. Then a PVC film, foil mineral insulation, and another layer of film are laid for vapor barrier. Pour a 5 mm layer of concrete with fine filler on top, create a slope under the drain hole - after 3-4 days we put ceramic tiles.

Don't forget to bring the foundation for the stove to floor level.

The floor in the dressing room is made of 19-29 mm tongue-and-groove boards made of coniferous wood.

Important point: when finishing a clean floor, and indeed the entire steam room and washing room, do not use synthetic building materials - this condition is especially relevant for a steam room!

Bath sewage system

To drain wastewater from the bathhouse you will need: a pit with a water seal, a well for Wastewater and pipes draining dirty water into the pit and then into the sewer.

The pit is torn off from the outside of the bathhouse foundation, and gravity pipes made of plastic, cast iron or ceramics are inserted into it from the steam room and washing room ( metal pipes will rust quickly).

The pit should be 500 mm from the foundation, its depth - 700 mm, cross-section - 500x500 mm. The walls of the pit are covered with a 100 mm layer of concrete, and a 110 mm drain pipe(s) from the bathhouse is inserted into it under the foundation. The main well for drainage, containing at least 2 m3, must be dug at a distance of at least 2.5 m from the pit - the further the better. A pipe is supplied to it from the pit, laid at a slope at a depth of 1.5 m (below the freezing depth), its outlet from the pit must be located 100 mm from its bottom. After entering drain pipe, the main drainage well is filled with gravel or sand 1 m from the bottom, soil is poured on top - in a layer of at least 500 mm. When laying, carefully compact each layer.

Before leading the drain pipe into the pit, a galvanized water seal is installed, located at an obtuse angle to the drain pipe from the bathhouse. Its edges and upper side are hermetically attached to the walls of the pit; the distance from its lower edge to the bottom should be no more than 50 mm - thanks to this design unpleasant odors And cold air will not penetrate into the steam room (washing room) through the drainage hole.

To prevent freezing in winter, the pit must be covered with two covers of the appropriate size (wooden or metal), felt should be laid between them, and top cover cover the top with expanded clay, slag or sawdust.

Log house, roofing and blind area

It is better to make a log house for a bathhouse to order from professional performers; its production is quite difficult. The finished log house in disassembled form must be brought to the construction site and assembled according to the numbering of the logs. The crowns are fastened with steel 25 mm tenon brackets with a total length of up to 150 mm, a tooth length of up to 70 mm.

The roof structure of the bathhouse includes rafters, sheathing is attached to them, then roofing material. The choice of final roof structure depends on roofing, with which it will overlap. The rafters are attached to the last crown of the frame (preferably the penultimate one) using tenon brackets. As a rule, the construction of baths involves the arrangement of one or gable roof, the slope angle (from 10° to 60°) which depends on the abundance and amount of precipitation in the area. Please note - the steeper the roof, the more material is required to create it.

Single-pitch rafters located at an angle are secured with two external or internal and external supports. If the span of the rafters exceeds 5 m, they are supported with additional struts. The rafters of a gable roof rest with their lower ends on the walls, the upper ends are connected to each other, forming a ridge.

The roof of the bathhouse can be covered with any material (slate, tiles, roofing felt, galvanized, etc.), with an overlap of at least 500 mm on the walls.

The attic space must be made ventilated, that is, equipped with two doors at opposite ends of the roof.

We make a blind area along the perimeter of the foundation: completely remove upper layer soil, we go 200 mm deep at a distance of 600-800 mm from the base of the bathhouse, lay a 100 mm layer of gravel (crushed stone, expanded clay) and then level it. Let's lay it down expansion joints(19 mm board coated with resin or bitumen, in increments of 2-2.5 m perpendicular to the foundation), fill with a 100 mm layer of concrete. Before the concrete sets, its surface must be ironed - cover with a layer of dry cement of 3-5 mm. After 3 days, the line of contact between the blind area and the foundation of the bathhouse must be covered with bitumen to waterproof it.

Caulking for a sauna log house

Performed to insulate a log house - sealing cracks between its logs, the material for caulking is traditionally flax tow, red moss, hemp hemp, wool felt. Natural materials for caulking can be replaced with factory-made ones made from jute and flax fibers: flax batting and felts - jute and flax-jute. The advantage of factory-made caulking materials over natural ones is their resistance to moths and fungi, and it is easier to work with factory-made material, since it is produced in the form of a continuous strip of a given thickness and width.

Caulking of a log house is carried out during its assembly - caulking material is laid between the logs during their laying. After the roof is built, full caulking is carried out - from the outside and inside log house, after a year - re-caulking (the log house settles - the logs dry).

The main tools for caulking are a spatula and a mallet; you can make them yourself or purchase ready-made ones. Both of these instruments are made of wood (ash, oak or beech). A caulking shovel looks like a wedge with a handle 200 mm long and a pointed blade 100 mm, the thickness of the handle is 30 mm, the width of the blade at the base is 65 mm, at the end - 30 mm. The wooden mallet has a round shape: the diameter of the handle is 40 mm, its length is 250 mm, the diameter of the striking part is 70 mm, its length is 100 mm.

Caulking is done in two ways - “set” or “stretched”. The second way to caulk is as follows: we collect the caulking material into a strand, lay it in the gap between the logs and push it there with the help of a spatula, filling the gap completely, without gaps. Then we collect the tow with a roller, apply it to the caulked groove, take out small strands of material from it, wrap them around the roller and drive it into the groove using a spatula and a roller - with force, until you are completely sure that the groove (slot) is filled.

The first method of caulking log houses is designed to cover large grooves (slots). We twist the material for caulking into 2 mm strands, form several loops from them and drive them into the gap. Loops are collected in a quantity sufficient to completely fill the gap.

Rules for caulking:

• First, the material is hammered along the upper edge of the log and only then along the lower edge;
• We begin caulking work from the cracks of the lower crown, on both sides. Then we move to the lower crown of the adjacent wall and so on. Having finished caulking the cracks of the lower crowns, we begin work on the next one in height, moving from this crown to the adjacent one in the nearest wall (from right to left or left to right, it doesn’t matter).

Under no circumstances should you caulk only one wall - it will rise and cause the frame to skew and you will have to disassemble/assemble it again. Let us remind you once again: caulking is done in a “bottom-up” direction along the perimeter of the log house.

Installing a stove

There are many design options for bathhouse stoves; they can be heated with wood, gas, liquid fuel, or use built-in heating elements and heated by electricity; they can be brick, cast iron or metal. Brick kilns in bathhouses they are made with a wall thickness of “half a brick” or “a whole brick”, masonry seams must be bandaged especially carefully, striving for their smallest thickness to achieve the greatest efficiency of the stove. Only red brick is used for laying the stoves. The furnace firebox is led into the dressing room, its remaining three walls are located in the washing room (steam room), and the distance from them to the walls of the washing room must be at least 250 mm - in this case, the heat will not go “into the walls”.

For a cast iron or metal stove, the formation of an independent foundation is not required - only for a brick one.

Heaters installed for those who like to steam are equipped with a chamber containing stones of various weights (from 1 to 5 kg). Rubble, pebbles, boulders and granite are suitable for filling the heater chamber. The design of these furnaces is extremely simple - similar to kitchen stoves, heaters differ from them by having a wider pipe or the presence of a chamber with stones.

To obtain the highest temperature in the steam room, you need to add cast iron pigs to the stones in a percentage ratio of 80:20 (stones: pigs). For every 1 m 3 of steam room you will need at least 6 kg of stones and cast iron pigs.

By maintaining a distance of 40–50 mm in the furnace between its walls and the water heating boiler, the effect of all-round blowing of the boiler with hot gases and rapid heating of the water is achieved.

For better draft, you need to bring the chimney as close to the roof ridge as possible. When laying a chimney through the attic, be sure to fluff the pipe 380 mm. Remember that the pipe should not pass closer than 150 mm near the roof sheathing and rafters (fire safety standards).

Electricity and water supply for the bathhouse

To wash one bathhouse user, at least 8 liters are required hot water. This amount can be provided in several ways: heat a container of water on a heater, use geyser, install an electric heater - boiler. If available central water supply, the pipeline to the bathhouse leads from the main house - water from such a pipeline system must be drained into winter time, otherwise it will freeze and burst the pipes.

Water can be taken from a well or well by installing submersible pump for its injection and equipping such a water supply system with purification filters. And in this case, in winter, the water must either be drained after each use of the bathhouse, or the supply pipes must be insulated.

You need to extend an independent line to the bathhouse to supply electricity, and the easiest way is to do it by air (air). For the air supply you will need a special cable - we sweep away the “bare” aluminum right away, focusing on two options: SIP (self-supporting insulated wire) and VVGng. The first type of cable is very good, it has long term service (more than 30 years), it is durable and does not need to be supported by a supporting cable. But it is extremely difficult to spend time with him installation work, because it is too thick (minimum section - 16 mm 2). Aluminum SIP cannot be pulled through the attic of a bathhouse according to fire safety standards; it is required to be attached to special anchor clamps - considering the amount of costs and hassle with its installation, its cost will be expensive.

A simpler solution is air supply with a VVGng copper cable attached to a supporting steel cable. The cable is suspended from the cable on a plastic-insulated wire; its service life is up to 10 years, after which it must be replaced (!). For a single-core VVGng cable (of course, there must be two cores - each of them must be in an independent double braid), stretched over the air to the bathhouse, the optimal cross-section will be 2.5 mm 2 - it is not known exactly what electrical equipment the owner of the dacha will want to power from it in future.

All wiring boxes, sockets and switches, and electrical panels must be for outdoor installation only. According to the rules fire safety It is prohibited to install junction boxes, switches and sockets in the washing/steam room - only in the dressing room. Don't joke about the possibility of a short circuit in wooden building- all internal wiring of the bathhouse must be done only in non-flammable corrugated hose, secured with special clips, cable passage through the partitions - only through steel pipe.

Try to arrange the cables in a junction box, socket or lamp so that they enter there from the bottom or side, but not from the top - a drop of condensate sliding along the braid can cause a short circuit.

All electrical appliances must have a moisture protection class of at least IP44 (preferably the maximum - IP54). Install simple lamps- metal body, glass shade only. All connections of the internal cable routing are made only on the terminal block, no twists. And install an RCD in the shield, setting it to 30 mA.

To work in the electrical panel and install an RCD, be sure to invite a qualified electrician if you are not one yourself!

Installation of partitions, ceilings, interior decoration, installation of windows and doors

Internal partitions in the bathhouse can be brick or wood, followed by heat and moisture insulation in both cases. The partition between the washing room and the dressing room, in which the stove is installed, must be made of brick, or there are brick inserts in it, with single brick masonry - on the sides in contact with the stove body.

Interior finishing is usually carried out in cases where the bathhouse itself is built of brick, stone or timber - here the finishing scheme is classic: insulation, vapor barrier film and lining. In addition, when performing external and internal finishing, you will have to rebuild the ventilation system of the bathhouse, because the log logs will be covered with cladding and will not be able to provide full ventilation.

The ceiling is formed in two layers - rough and finishing. The rough ceiling is attached to the horizontal roof joists, if necessary reinforced with intermediate beams. Its area is covered with insulation - expanded clay or slag. From inside the washing/steam room, insulation and a vapor barrier film are attached to the rough ceiling, after which the ceiling is covered finishing- linden, pine tongue-and-groove board (from 20 mm thick - the thicker the board, the longer it will retain the woody smell).

You need to install windows in the bathhouse small size(on average 500x700 mm) and embed them low - enough so that the person sitting on the bench can look out through them. Windows in the bathhouse are always made with double glazing, depending on the size - with a window or completely hinged - for quick ventilation.

Doors in bathhouses must be installed so that they open outward - for fire safety reasons. Material for door leaves A tongue-and-groove board (40-50 mm) or a board with a selected quarter is used; the boards are fastened with dowels. The size of the sashes must be deliberately reduced by 5 mm - more than is needed for the actual distance between the quarters of the jambs - otherwise, when humidity increases, the sashes will swell and it will be difficult to open (close) it. Optimal size doors in washing department baths - 600x1600 mm, in steam rooms - 800x1500 mm, with a threshold height of about 300 mm above floor level (it’s uncomfortable to walk, but it will keep you warm). The hinges for hanging the door leaves are brass, opening into the dressing room (washing room) and into the washing room (steam room). Door handles are wooden (especially in the steam room).

The material for the shelves is linden, pine, poplar or aspen. The minimum length of the shelves is 1800 mm, width - 500–800 mm. The distance between the “floors” of double-row shelves should be at least 350 mm, the minimum distance from the second row to ceiling covering- 1100 mm.

The lying surface is formed by a board with a width of 80 mm, a thickness of 40 mm, and a gap of 15 mm wide is formed between the boards. A distance of 10 mm is maintained from the wall to the shelf. Boards for sheathing shelves are attached to a frame made of timber with a cross-section of 50x70 mm in two ways: from above - using nails, the heads of which are recessed into the wood; from below - using screws. For fastening, choose nails and screws made of stainless steel or copper.

All corners in the shelf structure are rounded, surfaces are thoroughly cleaned to zero sandpaper.

For greater convenience, the shelves in the steam room are equipped with a headboard: the height at the beginning of the rise is 30 mm, the length of the headboard is 460 mm, the final maximum height is 190 mm.

When choosing material for creating shelves, be careful - it is believed that knotty areas are more dense and can lead to skin burns. Therefore, try to choose boards and timber without any knotty areas or with a minimum number of them.

Fire precautions

Protect the bathhouse premises from the threat of fire - lay a steel sheet in front of the stove firebox, make sure the stove doors are securely fastened, install fire extinguishing means nearby (a container with water, sand and fire extinguishers). Make sure you can open the doors of the steam room and washing room freely when lighting the sauna. Do not block passages or the space in front of doors and windows.

Our portal is replete with examples of the construction and operation of small, or, as they are now commonly called, mini-houses, but usually these are either frame-modular or frame structures. As it turned out, a log is also suitable wall material, especially when the construction concept is environmentally friendly and natural. One of our craftsmen, with the nickname mike099. His topic collected all the stars, which indicates its relevance, so it makes sense to expand the reach of the audience by considering the construction process in stages:

• Eco-hut.
• Preparation.
• Foundation.
• Box.
• Roof.
• Interior work.

Eco-hut only 30 m²

mike099 User FORUMHOUSE

The dream has long crept in about building a wooden house - environmentally friendly, practically without paints, mineral wool, polystyrene foam and other “benefits” of modern industry. The task is to build a solid, comfortable house with minimal effort, suitable for winter visits and year-round living, therefore shingles, boulders, mezzanines, Russian stoves and other delights of centuries past were not included in the project.

The craftsman immediately decided on the design:

• Pile foundation.
• Box made of hand-cut logs.
• Metal roofing.
• Sawdust with and sawdust with lime are used as insulation for floors.

Preparation

The preparation stage included clearing the site, digging a well, installing a purchased wooden cabin and toilet, after which the project selection stage began. Initially, the craftsman set his sights on a one-and-a-half-story log house, 8x9 meters, with five rooms, but as he began to think about it, a completely different design emerged. I refused the second floor, even though it was an attic, both due to my reluctance to do staircase fitness, and for other reasons. In addition, with the planned stove heating will a big difference temperatures between levels. Plus, it’s problematic to insulate with sawdust pitched roof, with a ceiling and a cold attic it is much easier. Next, it was the turn of quadrature, and the result of selecting the optimal layout was a project for a 6x6 meter log house, with a set of functional rooms.

The vital meters needed for a comfortable existence were taken into account, as well as savings on operation by reducing heating costs, and the specifics of a dacha - a house for “drinking tea and sleeping.” However, this adjustment in scale led to the abandonment of the planned log cutting into a cup. A six-meter log just fits into the plan, but a seven-meter log is much more expensive, and only a few people work with it. Yes, visually cutting into a cup wins, but the “dovetail” with a crossover is quite functional, and the ends can be covered with platbands.

Foundation

Preference screw piles was chosen because of the desire to try an “ultra-modern solution” and save money, as well as due to the speed and relative ease of installation. A total of nine piles were screwed in - three support points for each load-bearing beam, pile diameter 108 mm, thickness - 4 mm. Despite some problems when installing the piles and the flimsiness of the coating, which is positioned as a durable protective layer, but in fact can be easily removed with a fingernail, the craftsman is satisfied with the choice. Moreover, perhaps the bathhouse will also be placed on stilts, although he admits that a tape or slab “will be more reliable.”

Box

The frame was collected using moss that had been ordered in advance from another region; before installation, the moss was poured out to dry, since when it was delivered it was still fresh and had not dried out much during the two weeks spent waiting in the wings. Making log partitions turned out to be problematic due to the small dimensions of the four-wall, and the cost of the box in this case would have jumped by almost half. Therefore, in one day, the hired team delivered and in another day assembled just a box, and although the moss after assembly hung picturesquely all over the walls, it took significantly less than planned, as practice has shown - they obviously did not report it.

To dry the log house, they cut out ventilation holes size 30x30 cm, with grill. To everyone who is just in the process, mike099 advises making more of them. I did the curling (the initial caulking of a log house with moss) on my own, driving the hanging moss into the voids and cutting off the excess with a utility knife.

Roof

From popular now soft tiles the craftsman refused for several reasons.

mike099

I rejected the soft roof immediately, due to its less environmental friendliness and higher price. The binders, the basis of soft tiles, are far from natural materials. Its installation is more expensive, and you need a smooth flooring made of OSB or plywood.

Therefore, I preferred metal tiles that imitate the ceramic source. A wide, semicircular ridge, instead of sub-rafter elements there is a central supporting ridge beam. Waterproofing, counter-lattice along the rafters (50×50 mm), lathing with pitch to match the covering profile (35 cm). As planned, the eaves overhangs are 70 cm long; in the future there will be a metal drainage system.

After assembling the frame “under the roof”, I protected the ventilation windows with awnings, and also installed temporary flashings made of waterproofing along the ends, cracks of the flashings and at the junction of the frame and trim. No matter how much I wanted to avoid the use of chemicals, I had to treat the imitation timber gables with protective impregnation.

Interior work

The ceiling was made at the stage of assembling the timber; I wanted to maintain the style, but processing a log now is not a cheap pleasure, just like the log itself. The craftsman replaced the log with a board 50 mm thick, covering the cracks with an unedged board 25 mm thick; all lumber was debarked and sanded before installation. To avoid problems when insulating with a mixture of sawdust and clay, two support logs go through the ceiling.

I made some of the openings myself, as specialized companies raised the price tag to unattainable heights.

mike099

The frame was made simple, rough T-shaped: the grooves in the log were marked with a saw, the main cutting was done with a milling cutter. I laid a 50x50 mm dry block with linen tape (insulation) and attached a box of 200x50 mm boards to it with self-tapping screws.

Another relief in favor modern materials – steel door and two plastic windows; wooden Euro windows were installed in the future living quarters. Again, in order to save money, he painted the windows himself, which he regrets - the quality turned out to be lower than the factory quality, and taking into account the cost of consumables, the difference in money is minimal despite the high labor costs.

To increase the heat capacity of the house, I chose a combined stove, brick, with a cast-iron stove, as a compromise between an iron potbelly stove and a Russian stove. Under the furnace, the foundation is 1.7 m deep, reinforcement frame, two m³ of concrete.

As the subfloor dried, it showed cracks; I had to cover them with strips; before adding sawdust, I laid the remaining dry moss as a natural antiseptic.

Before laying, the sawdust was flavored with lime and carefully compacted. Before starting the installation of the finishing floorboard, the craftsman installed communications.

An unpleasant surprise was the strong warping of the floor after drying for just one day and the falling out of knots. The result is the opening of the coating and re-installation, and the reason is the purchase of materials in a hurry, on the market.

The craftsman decided to leave in the first winter with an insulated underground - metal carcass along the perimeter of the base, to it, XPS, 50 mm thick, and horizontally, on the ground, with a slope from the house, also sheets of insulation. The horizontal layer was simply covered back with earth, the lawn on the site was right under the frame, and the base was subsequently lined with basement siding to match the brickwork.

Sanding logs mike099 started on my own, first with the help of an eccentric grinding machine. It turned out to be rather weak, so we replaced it with a grinder, first I used a wheel with 80 grain, the second pass - with 120-150 grain. The vacuum cleaner alone collected 200 liters of waste, but it was worth it.

Wooden house construction is gaining momentum, which is no wonder, because living in an environmentally friendly building in the age of the concrete jungle is much healthier. Standalone device the home of your dreams is quite possible, provided that the owner suburban area has carpentry skills. Below are descriptions of the important processes preceding such work, the answer to the question of how to make a log house with your own hands, as well as recommendations for its operation after installation.

Scheme for assembling a house made of timber.

Site preparation

What is it? The site must be cleared of any type of vegetation. Moreover, after uprooting all the bushes, you should water the ground with chemicals so that the roots do not stretch out again. If this is not done, then you can wait for the trees to appear in the log house. Perhaps, from a design point of view, it will look stylish and unusual, but broken floorboards and constant dampness are unlikely to suit the owners.

Scheme of preparation of logs for the assembly of a log house.

The cleared site is fenced off, thereby preventing the passage of other vehicles and marking the boundaries of the construction site. It is necessary to ensure the arrival of special equipment, if any, and provide electricity and water to the site. Thus, the area can be considered ready for the next stage - the foundation.

It would be nice to have a storage area for wood. This is usually a canopy that protects the material from the elements. In addition, it will need to be covered with film if construction is delayed.

Construction of the foundation

Foundation diagram for a house made of timber.

When choosing a foundation for a log house, you should proceed from its size and terrain conditions:

1. Tape. Suitable for any type of building. Works well on problematic soils. You can be sure that the log house will not “go away” over time. Minus - requires large quantity concrete, which cannot reduce the cost of construction, even if you make the log house yourself.
2. Pile. Suitable for light one-story buildings. It behaves well on heaving and rocky soils, reduces construction costs, but you can forget about floor insulation: a blowing wind sweeping snowdrifts under the log house is a common occurrence. It is erected in warm areas.
3. Columnar. First of all, it is intended for damp lands. It is too capricious: after shrinkage, the level will definitely move, so its construction should be left to specialists. Economical.
4. Slab. The most reliable, but expensive. It is a completely poured concrete base. It performs well on problematic soil: it does not lead, does not allow dampness or heaving. Labor intensive.

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Below is a description of the installation for a strip foundation as the best in terms of price-quality ratio.

Tools for making a log house.

To work you will need:

• shovel;
• level;
• measuring instruments;
• formwork - panels, boards;
• crushed stone, sand;
• fittings;
• insulation;
• concrete pouring.

The process begins with marking. Each bearing wall The log house must be firmly placed on the foundation. With this condition, the outline is outlined. It is very convenient to use wooden stakes and harsh threads.

Then ditches are dug along the marked lines. The soil should be immediately stored separately; it may still be needed. The depth, depending on freezing conditions, cannot be less than 70 cm.

Corner connections of timber frames.

After this, the future foundation needs to be insulated. Styrene is used for this. The slabs are laid on the sides of the ditch and secured with pins, piercing and thus fixing them along the walls. If you neglect the insulation, this will subsequently affect the quality of operation.

The installation of reinforcement begins. It is absolutely necessary for the rigidity of the structure. To do this, steel rods are laid out at the intersection and welded at the nodes and corners of the future log house.

Place the formwork up to the edge ground floor. Shields or boards are strengthened in accordance with the level so that the future foundation is level.

Concrete pouring is being done. To save money, rubble is poured into the ditch - construction waste: crushed stone, broken bricks, stones, etc. The pouring is carried out slowly, until complete shrinkage, pouring water each time until a milky foam appears on the surface. This is done to prevent the surface of the foundation from cracking. Then it must be given time to completely harden - 2-3 weeks.

Installation of timber frame crowns.

Once the formwork has been removed, immediate construction cannot begin. Shrinkage of the base occurs throughout the year. During this time, it is possible to review all the nuances of the material.

Thus, the construction of the foundation can be considered completed. If the owners want to have some kind of extension in the future, then they need to think about it when planning the site. It is best when the common frame is made on one foundation.

Direct selection of material

Probably, even before walking around the offices, the owners had already decided on the choice of wood for their future brainchild. Based on financial capabilities, the material in the log house corresponds to them. An array is considered more expensive, but with it you can be sure that the house will be warm and durable. In addition, due to the beauty of wild or rounded logs, there is no need to decorate it. Profiled or laminated timber will be no less beautiful. In this case, construction with such materials will be easier due to the correct geometric shape of the material.

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Types of logs that are used for log houses.

The problem with the question of how to properly make the log house itself lies in cutting the corners. Without the appropriate skill, you can get at least a waste of material. The greater evil is a windswept house. There are many types of felling. The most popular were “in the paw” and “in the bowl”. In the first case, material consumption is reduced, but the corners become cold bridges. In the second, skill is required, but a house with such a log is reliable.

It also makes sense to choose softwood or hardwood. The advantage of conifers is the presence of phytoncides, which protect the tree from mold, mildew and bark beetles. The disadvantage of coniferous trees is that, due to their resinous nature, it is not recommended to build bathhouses from them. The resin flows and poses a threat to people with high blood pressure, as it clogs all ventilation. The choice should be optimal in terms of price, decent quality and durability.

The laying of the first crown - the main element in the entire log house - begins. To make it high quality, it is recommended to choose larch for such a task. This tree has established itself as an excellent material that does not interact with moisture. An example of this is the piles in Venice, which stood in the water for many hundreds of years. They were made from Russian larch, by the way.

Scheme for assembling a log frame from a gun carriage.

So, layers of roofing material are laid on the foundation, or it is tarred with bitumen mastic. Then a beam or log with grooves already cut out is placed. Naturally, strictly according to the level. Also, don’t forget to stock up on inter-crown insulation. It could be moss, jute or tow. Although builders refuse the latter. Logs for the subfloor are immediately installed (for the convenience of the entire installation process).

The next crowns do not differ from the installation of the first one. The only difference is that the initial log or beam should be slightly wider than the rest. The work is carried out according to the plan or project, accurately combining the drawings with the realities. That is, window or door openings should be in place immediately, and not later. The fastening material is usually wooden dowels. The use of metal is undesirable, since corrosion will lead to destruction of the wood. Work is carried out to the desired height, placing the crowns with insulation. The last two rows in the log house are not secured with anything. After shrinking, they need to be removed in order to be properly mounted and strengthened. rafter system. Thus, you can build a log house yourself. This is not the most difficult, but responsible job.

Assembling a log house with your own hands + Video. Wooden frames were used back in Russian times. Even now, despite the fact that there is a huge number of diverse building materials, wooden houses extremely popular. Such a house can without a doubt be called environmentally friendly, and in terms of strength it will not be inferior to a brick and stone house. It is quite possible to build and assemble a log house with your own hands if you know the installation technology, as well as all the nuances of assembly.

To find out how to assemble a log house, you should first make a house project, prepare the wood and select the required type.

A wooden frame is a structure made of logs that are laid horizontally and form walls.

I call each row of logs that go along the perimeter a crown, and the bottom row is a frame crown. The structure at the corners will be formed by connecting logs with the projections of others, and if the house is represented only by external walls, then it will be called a four-walled one, and if there is a partition from the inside, then a five-walled log house with the logs connected from the inside in a T-shape. To build such a house you will need hardwood or coniferous tree, and it is advisable that the trees were recently cut down. If trees are cut down in winter, they will have less moisture. Preference is given to coniferous wood, ideally it should be pine.

In order to build a log house, you will need logs with a diameter of 25 cm. If you live in an area with a warm climate, logs with a diameter of 2 cm will do. The material must be of high quality, free from rot and wormholes.

The construction of a log house can be divided into several main stages:

So, to assemble a log house from timber with your own hands, you should choose a technology. At the moment, the 3 main ones are Canadian, Russian and Norwegian. The first two types are based on the use of rounded logs, and the Norwegian technology is based on the use of logs hewn on both sides. Such technologies differ from each other in their approach to making blanks and laying wood.

But still, no matter what technology you choose, you need to carefully prepare the material, namely calibrate, polish, and select logs of the same diameter.

The following types of foundations are suitable for a timber frame:

• Columnar – it is suitable for small houses, but careful calculation is required during construction.
• Deep foundation – is the most expensive foundation, which is used for the construction of bulky buildings with a garage and basement.
• Shallow. It is considered the best for a log house, and this technology is ideal for any soil, and is also economical and reliable.

How to assemble correctly

To begin, remove the bark from the felled tree and cut it into logs with the same length required for the walls + 1 meter allowance. If logs of the same length are not available, they can be obtained by crossing shorter logs using the tongue-and-groove method. Please note that the first crown of the log house must be made of high-quality and, most importantly, solid material. Logs intended for interior work should be trimmed on both sides.

Assembling a log house from rounded logs can be done in the following two ways:

1. Using wood dowels.
2. Using nails.

The first method is preferable, since the contact area between the logs and the dowel is larger, which means that the structure will be securely fastened. The dowels are connected in a checkerboard pattern, and the distance between them should be no more than 200 cm. If you assemble using nails, then you should correctly calculate their length. With a wall thickness of 10 cm, the length of the nail should be at least 25 cm. Please note that the head of the nail must be deeply recessed into the wood, otherwise the material will shrink.

When the foundation dries, its surface should be covered with a waterproofing material such as roofing felt. After this, you can begin laying the first crown of the thickest logs. To make it stronger, use cross-bar spacers. They and the lower crown should be well covered with tar and antiseptic. The gaps between the bottom flashing and the foundation should be closed using concrete mortar and bricks on a pre-laid layer of roofing felt.

Most often, logs at the corners are joined using the “cup” or “paw” method. In the first case, tying at the corners is assumed with an allowance of logs, and in the second without allowances. The cup method is suitable for round logs, while the second method is suitable for both hewn and round logs. Please note that the second method is even more economical, since excess wood does not remain at the corners. When assembling, you should control how smooth the corners and vertical walls are.

the uppermost crown is called the mauerlat, and it serves as a support for the roof. The upper crown must be made from high-quality and strong logs. You need to leave appropriate openings for windows and doors, but they can be cut out after you build the frame. This method is even preferable, since during the construction of the structure you will be able to ensure a uniform load on the foundation, and this will mean that the house will not be skewed.

Wall treatment + interior work

After assembling the log house with your own hands is completed, you should caulk the walls with moss, tow or felt. you can use artificial materials made from real rubber. Such materials will hermetically seal the gaps between the logs, due to which the walls will receive a monolithic and completely waterproofed structure. You can start caulking surfaces from below and using tools such as a caulk and a hammer. This procedure should be carried out along the entire perimeter, since if you caulk individual walls, the structure may be skewed. When the treatment of the external walls is completed, you can begin to caulk the internal surfaces.

After this, the wood should be coated with antiseptics. Be sure to treat the wood with fire retardants in those places where the fireplace, stove and chimney area will be installed. Such procedures will help to significantly extend the life of the house. Finally, you should make a shelter from waterproofing materials. This procedure should be carried out 2 times a year so that the house first shrinks naturally, and then maintains it in the same condition. When the walls are ready, you can begin installing the blood and completing the interior decoration of the room.

Usually, quality wood should be sanded and varnished and a colored/clear coat can be used for this. If you want to do modern design in the interior, then interior walls can be sheathed using wood or plasterboard, but first take care of the installation electrical wires. Electrical wires must be insulated.

Log houses made of wood do not need any additional insulation, therefore, laying insulation such as polystyrene foam between the facing material or walls is not required. If necessary, you can use mineral wool as insulation.

The floors in the log house are made of boards 4 cm thick - they need to be laid tightly together, then secured, sanded and processed along the entire perimeter of the walls. If desired, you can varnish the floor and then lay laminate.

Advantages of a log house

A wooden log house made by yourself has many advantages:

Results

Wooden log house- This is one of the most environmentally friendly buildings. Such a house will literally “breathe”, since there is constant air exchange through natural wood. Due to optimal performance humidity in wooden log house It’s even useful to live!

The service life of such houses is much longer than even the most solid buildings. Frame structures, in which the beams are impregnated with an anti-corrosion and fire-resistant composition, can become excellent housing for several generations of a family. Interestingly, the thermal conductivity of a log house is 2.5 times less than that of a house built of brick, and this ensures warmth inside the house in winter and pleasant coolness in summer. The external walls of the log house do not require insulation.