Oil for woodworking. Why is wood impregnated with linseed oil? Care and treatment with protective oils

IN modern houses a lot of wood. Of course, there used to be more. But even now wooden parts there are a lot of things in the house (knife handles, window sills, cutting boards, door handles, door jambs, handicrafts and so on). Like any other element, wood can age and deteriorate. Therefore, the question How to treat wood with oil to make it last longer? - this is a topical issue not only in antiquity (when the tree was the main building material), but even now.

How to treat wood with oil? Well, you probably know that there are building supermarkets. And in construction supermarkets there are entire departments with varnishes, stains and other wood impregnations. But on our site, we prefer methods, so this article is mainly about what you can do to process wood yourself.

So let's get started. And let's start from the very easy way wood processing - impregnation with simple vegetable oil.

Impregnation of wood with vegetable oil is one of the oldest ways to process it. The main purpose of wood impregnation with oil is to increase the moisture protection of wooden products. So, wood itself is hydrophilic (loves water) and swells when water enters. Then it dries. Then it swells. And after a few cycles (depending on the amount of water, air humidity, etc.), the wood cracks. Which does not improve either its mechanical or its aesthetic properties.

Whereas impregnating wood with oil

• a) closes the smallest pores of wood, polymerizing on the surface;
• b) makes large pores and the entire surface hydrophobic (water-repellent).

Well, besides this, the impregnation of wood with oil increases its aesthetics, showing the structure of the tree. What looks prettier than when the tree structure is not visible.

How oil works: vegetable oils, remaining in the air, under the influence of oxygen, light and heat, thicken, and in a thin layer they “dry out” (polymerize), turning into a semi-solid mass. This characteristic property is inherent in those vegetable oils, which include polyunsaturated fatty acids, in particular linoleic and linolenic. The more of them, the greater the drying ability of the oil. Oils differ in the highest content of glycerides of linolenic and linoleic acids:

• linen
• hemp.

Sunflower oil works worse because it has fewer polyunsaturated fatty acids.

Let's see how this is applied in practice.

How can linseed oil be used in wood processing.

For example, you have a wooden knife handle that you want to process. The easiest way is to pick up the oil and rub the handle well. Wait for absorption. Rub again. And so on - until you get bored. In principle, this is enough for the household level. But if you want more (for example, increased resistance to water), then you can do the following.

The knife handle (or other product) should be placed in linseed oil for several days. To do this, the knife can be placed in a jar with a screw-on lid with a thin slot for the blade, which, after placing the knife in it, must be hermetically sealed.

When the wood of the cutting is soaked through, it must be wiped with a smooth, dry rag. After that, let it dry completely for a few weeks. When the oil evaporates, the surface is oxidized and polymerized, which after some time becomes strong and elastic.

As you noticed, the period is several weeks for the oil to dry when processing wood.

Why? Everything is very simple.

Vegetable oil in its natural form, even with a high content of linolenic acid, oxidizes extremely slowly. To reduce the drying time, the oil is subjected to heat treatment with the addition of metal compounds (desiccants) to its composition. When heated in oil, substances that slow down hardening decompose, and metal salts provide faster oxidation.

Thus we get drying oils- compositions that, within 6-36 hours (depending on the composition, preparation technology and additives used) after being applied to the surface, turn into a hard, elastic film. As you understand, the use of drying oil significantly speeds up the process. Drying oil can be bought at any store.

But, as we said at the beginning, we are trying to find ways to process wood ourselves. So let's go further.

The first way to accelerate the polymerization of oil. You can buy both linseed oil and desiccant at the art store. Well, to provide heat treatment with the help of friction - rub the oil well into a wooden product for, say, half an hour.

It's easy and simple 🙂 Although it's cheaper - it must be considered ...

Second way to speed up the drying and polymerization of the oil is to dilute the oil by half with turpentine. Turpentine is a mixture essential oils, which are obtained by extraction from resins coniferous trees(i.e. from resin).

In the case of dilution with turpentine, the drying time is reduced to 1-2 weeks. Also keep in mind that turpentine is a toxic substance (see Wikipedia on this) and should not be allowed to come into contact with the skin, let alone breathe or drink it.

If you want not only to speed up the drying of the treated product, but to change its color, then you can dilute the oil by half with tar. Tar is a product of dry distillation of wood (wood is burned without air access). That is, this is the same turpentine, only in a coarser and much less toxic form.

Linseed oil can also be mixed with wax. Wax dissolves in linseed oil (if you do this by heating, then use a water bath and keep a fire extinguisher handy), and when treating wood with this composition, you not only oil, but also wax the surface. This enhances the water-repellent properties of wood many times over.

Naturally, the wood processing methods do not end there. But we will finish for now, leaving other ways for next time.

Happy woodworking!

Protecting a tree from mold, rot and bugs is the primary task of any owner. wooden house or a log cabin. This question is important if you are working with wooden products that will be used outdoors in the future. Home homemade furniture also needs protection from moisture and other negative factors.

The best tool is coal oil for impregnating wood. But it is used only for impregnation of sleepers or other objects operated in harsh conditions. For independent work, more affordable and pleasantly smelling compositions are used.

Oil or wax

Both of these substances are used to protect wood from moisture, mold, fungus, rot and bugs. Both oil and wax have been used since time immemorial and have consistently shown good results. They improve appearance wood and increase its strength and service life.

Impregnation oils for woodworking have high antiseptic properties, they penetrate deep into the wood structure, making its surface elastic. They protect the wood from drying out, do not clog pores, allow the surface to breathe, and regulate humidity. Oils for wood are harmless to humans and are considered the most environmentally friendly way to protect it along with wax.

Of the oils most commonly used for self-impregnation of wood, it can be noted:

• tung;
• teak;
• tar;
• linen.

Some prefer to use sunflower oil to impregnate wood. However, it gives the worst effect. The reason is polyunsaturated fatty acids: there are extremely few of them in sunflower.

Waxing is the oldest way to protect wooden products from moisture penetration. The wax fills the pores of the wood and gives it a matte finish. Its only drawback is the lack of "breathing" in the treated wood.

Important! It is impractical to work with pure wax, therefore it is dissolved in vegetable oil, for example, in linseed, plus other additives (turpentine) are included in the composition. Such work is quite lengthy. Therefore, the impregnation of wood with oil compositions is considered the best option its protection against moisture penetration, rot, mold.

Pros and cons of oil impregnation

Treatment of wood with oil-based compounds has many advantages. This:

• ecological cleanliness;
• aesthetic appearance of processed products: oiled surfaces after good polishing acquire a matte sheen, become velvety to the touch;
• ease of processing;
• the availability of the material;
• relative cheapness;
• fast restoration of mechanical damage. It is enough to subject furniture or floors / ceilings / walls to re-treatment, and scratches will immediately disappear.

Oil impregnation will ideal option protection for products made of expensive / exotic woods, houses / buildings made of logs (log houses), furniture that is exposed to moisture.

However, oil impregnation also has disadvantages:

1. Surfaces are quite demanding in care. This applies to both furniture and floors, ceilings, walls. They need to be impregnated every 3 to 4 months, and then carefully polished.
2. Oiled surfaces are vulnerable to grease. The spots from it are clearly visible. Reprocessing removes them.

This is the oldest product used to protect internal wooden surfaces from moisture, rot and wood-boring bugs. They can impregnate floorboards, ceilings, wooden furniture, platbands and even dishes.

Important! Under the tsarist rule, tung oil was used to finish especially valuable types of wood, from which unique items interior. This is due to its amazing ability to penetrate very quickly into surface layer wood, bringing out its texture as much as possible.

Before starting work, tung oil must be mixed. It is best to work at an air temperature of + 15 ° C. At a lower value, the composition thickens, respectively, its consumption increases (standard amount by square meter- 100 - 150 g). The application is made in a very thin layer with a brush. Then let the oil soak in (20 minutes), take a sponge or soft cloth and rub the residue into the wood along the fibers. Surplus is removed. To increase the absorbency, you can dilute tung oil by 40 percent with white spirit. The product is ready for use in a day.

Important! All oiled used rags are disposed of as household waste. Hand grease can be washed off with warm soapy water.

This is a versatile product. They can process both internal wooden surfaces (floors, ceilings, decorative items, railings, stairs, etc.) and external (facades, gazebos, garden furniture, decorative figurines for landscape design). Ideal for processing oak, mahogany, beech and other precious woods.

Teak oil is an environmentally friendly product. It contains tung and linseed oils, refined pine turpentine. It has nothing to do with the tree of the same name (tic).

Important! Never dilute teak oil! Before working, stir it well and / or shake the jar.

It is one of the strongest natural antiseptics for independent work on wood. It consists of stump resin, pine turpentine and linseed oil. Turpentine improves the penetration of the composition deep into the wood, linseed oil keeps it from coming to the surface. The composition is actively used to treat the bottom of boats and piers. It is also used for external impregnation of log buildings, garden houses and garden furniture.

The properties of tar oil are similar to those of teak and tung oil. It provides excellent protection for wood surfaces from moisture, rot and wood bugs, while giving the wood a translucent texture. The technology of work is the same as that of tung and teak oils: only 100-150 ml of product is required per 1 m2 of a well-sanded surface. To impregnate the walls of the log house, you need from 5 to 10 liters per square meter.

The impregnated surface dries up to 7 days. The duration of drying depends both on the quality of the wood and on the environmental conditions. When applied in one layer, the drying time is only a day. Dilution is not allowed, thorough mixing is necessary before use!

Advice! Store tung, teak and tar oils in tightly sealed containers in a dry and cool place. They are not afraid of freezing and retain all their properties in frost.

By right it is considered the best and cheapest means for protection of wooden surfaces. Linseed oil has high waterproofing qualities and is intended for the treatment of exterior and internal surfaces. They can soak wooden facades, walls, ceilings, platbands, furniture and other wooden interior items, it perfectly shows the texture of wood, penetrates into the smallest cracks, preserves wood, creating a durable water-repellent layer on its surface.

During impregnation, linseed oil thickens under the influence of environmental factors (low temperature, oxidative processes). The triglycerides contained in it - linoleic and linolenic acids - actively contribute to this.

Important! Linseed oil dries longer than all of the above - up to three weeks, depending on the number of layers. If you add tar, wax or turpentine to it, the process can be accelerated.

Toning oils are impregnations based on oxidized vegetable fats that are used to enhance the natural beauty of wood and have protective properties. It is the use of tinting that will help prevent damage to wood from the effects of such factors:

• mold, fungus;
• settlement of insects;
• wetting and rotting;
• pollution, dusting;
• discoloration;
• drying;
• the appearance of cracks.

Tinting is used for interior and exterior work, but is especially recommended if furniture and other wooden crafts operated on the street. The products are deeply absorbed, filling the pores of the tree and literally repelling water and dirt. The applied impregnation is a guarantee of reliable strengthening of the structure of the material, as a result, it becomes much stronger.

The fields of application of oils are diverse:

• furniture;
• stairs and floors;
• parquet;
• lining;
• beams;
• exterior decoration of buildings.

Depending on the shade, the products are transparent and colored. As an example of the latter, one can name the tinting oil "Martyanov" - "Premium Cone" and its other varieties ("Mahogany", "Fog", "Nut", etc.). The consistency of the products is even, homogeneous, they are easy to apply, quickly absorbed, while ideally combined with waxes, wood varnishes. The advantages of all tinting can be called safety for health, lack of bad smell, possibility of use as independent means for a tree.

Impregnation of wood at home

Consider this process using the example of linseed oil as the cheapest and most affordable for an ordinary craftsman. To work, you need a small list of useful things:

• natural hair brush, foam sponge, soft cloth, rags;
• oil, a stick for mixing it;
• building hair dryer, metal brush - to remove the old coating;
• sandpaper to bring the surface into a perfectly even state;
• broom to remove dust from the surface;
• gloves so you don't get dirty.

Impregnation technologies

Oiling a tree can be done in different ways. Someone likes smearing and further rubbing, someone prefers soaking. True, the second method is suitable only for small items - decorative dishes, figurines. Dishes, by the way, can be used (as a container for bread, salt / sugar, fruits), because it is absolutely not afraid of water.

preliminary stage

An important stage of work before impregnation will be the preliminary preparation of external / internal surfaces. For boiling, you will need to carefully sand the dishes or figures. It is assumed that they have just been carved from wood and are not covered with anything on top. Otherwise, you will have to remove both paint and varnish, and this is a very dreary task.

For large areas (walls, floor, ceiling) you will have to do a lot more actions:

1. Peel off the old coating. This includes varnish and paint. Use for cleaning wire brush, spatula. If the paint doesn't want to peel off, heat it up with a blow dryer. When it bubbles, pry off the layer with a spatula and remove.
2. Sand the surface. Use two types of sandpaper for this - large and small. Stripping can be stopped when at hand it will be felt smooth surface without flaws.
3. Remove dust. Brush it off with a soft (Vietnamese) broom or use a regular rag. Before oil impregnation, dust should not remain on the surface.

smearing

The easiest way to protect wood from moisture and decay is to oil it. It is best to do this with a rag. But you can also use a brush with natural bristles. This is relevant for small areas(platbands). Soak interior/exterior walls, ceiling or floor with a soft cloth soaked in oil. This is done as follows:

1. Stir the product and pour the part into a separate container.
2. Moisten the cloth and proceed to impregnation. Apply the composition along the fibers.
3. Leave the oil for 15 - 20 minutes. Then remove the residue with a rag.
4. Let the surface dry, then repeat the treatment.

soaking

This method is used for small items. Pour oil into a container and place a previously cleaned wooden product in it. The exposure period is not limited. Ideally, you need to hold the plate, figurine, knife or gun handle until air bubbles stop coming out of the wood.

After that, take out the thing, put it on a table covered with clean paper, in an inclined state so that excess oil drains. Then take a rag and polish. Pure linseed oil without additives dries for a long time - up to 3 weeks. This has its plus - the depth of such impregnation is great, and the tree receives excellent protection from moisture, rot, mold. If you can't wait to see ready product, add beeswax to linseed oil. This will greatly speed up the process.

Linseed Oil Oil/Wax Recipe (suitable for both exterior and interior surfaces):

1. Heat up the oil until smoke appears.
2. Pour grated wax into it.
3. Stir. When the wax dissolves, pour the composition into a jar.
4. To give the mixture a pleasant aroma, add a few drops of juniper berry oil.

The ratio of parts in oil-based formulations can be different. To get a thin layer (floor treatment), 9-10 parts of oil and 1 part of wax are taken. Processing with such a composition is carried out 3-4 times. Compositions based on oil and wax 3 to 1 or 4 to 1 are suitable for impregnating walls. Oil / wax in a ratio of 1 to 1 is acceptable for ceiling treatment. The layer from it turns out to be thick, the protection against moisture penetration is maximum, but the resistance to mechanical damage is very weak. But the ceiling is not threatened by any extraneous influences. Therefore, a composition based on linseed oil with the addition of wax 1 to 1 is the most suitable option for him.

Impregnation of wood with oil formulations is an inexpensive option for protecting it from various adverse factors. In comparison with industrial antiseptics, it turns out cheap, high quality and completely safe for health at all stages of work.

Linseed oil and drying oil: understanding the concepts

Flaxseed oil is a natural substance obtained by cold or hot pressing of flaxseeds. Pure oil can be used as a stand-alone top coat, but it is ineffective in the untreated state due to its low polymerization (drying) ability.

Speaking of wood impregnation linseed oil, as a rule, imply the use of drying oil. This is a composition modified by heat treatment and the addition of chemical additives that accelerate the polymerization process. Drying oil is also called "boiled" or "boiled" linseed oil.

Features of finishing with raw oil and drying oil

When processing wooden products with pure linseed oil, you should be prepared not only for long-term drying, which can take up to 3 days (for each layer), but also to know a number of important features. The raw product is actively absorbed into the structure of the wood, so the coating of wood with linseed oil has to be done in 5-7 or more layers. Drying on the outside, it polymerizes poorly inside, which is why a dry-looking product can leave oil stains for a long time. Exposure to ultraviolet significantly speeds up the drying process. In the sun, treated wood can dry in 6-8 hours, but the tone of the coating will change: it will become yellowish or even slightly brown.

Drying oil, due to the high polymerization rate, has completely different properties: it dries quickly, is not so actively absorbed, and does not change its color. This makes it more practical to use. Regardless of the conditions, the answer to the question of how long the drying oil dries is unequivocal - no more than a day (at 20 ° C). This sets it apart from raw linseed oil. In the future, speaking about this type of finish, we will mean linseed drying oil.

Where is the best place to apply this finish?

Impregnation of wood with linseed oil does not provide solid protective film resistant to scratches and abrasion. But this kind decorative finishes valued for something else, first of all, - environmental friendliness, antiseptic properties, the ability to emphasize the texture of wood and keep it from cracking.

Linseed drying oil is used for finishing products used indoors. It is optimal for covering furniture surfaces that are not subject to intense abrasion, wooden walls and ceilings. She is being treated wooden utensils, Kids toys. As a decorative and protective finish, it is appropriate to apply linseed oil to the surface of precious woods to maximize their natural qualities.

How to coat wood with linseed oil?

Preparation. The oil is applied to a dry and sanded surface. The moisture content of the wood must be at least 15%. Work is recommended to be carried out relative humidity air no more than 80%. When applying the composition to oily wood species, the prepared surface is additionally wiped with white spirit.

Application. To work, use a brush, swab or lint-free cloth. The composition is evenly distributed on the surface, and allowed to penetrate into the structure of the tree for 15-30 minutes. Excess oil that is no longer absorbed is wiped off with a cloth or swab along the fibers. Keep the oil evenly distributed on the surface to avoid staining.

Each new layer is applied after complete polymerization of the previous one with preliminary grinding. The number of necessary layers (in the case of drying oil from 1 to 4) depends on the characteristics of the product and the type of wood (small-vascular species require fewer layers due to low absorbency).

The time of complete drying of each layer is up to 24 hours.

How to restore the oil coating?

Over time, the surface impregnated with linseed oil changes its color, begins to look dry or wears off. This coating is short-lived, but this disadvantage is compensated by the ease of its restoration. When applying a second layer, the oil will hide all scratches and return the external attractiveness of the wood. If desired, linseed oil can be tinted with pigments, reaching the desired color shades. For products not subject to intensive use, the restoration procedure is carried out every two to three years.

What is oil wax and how to make it yourself?

Linseed oil with wax is an effective decorative and protective coating that gives wood high moisture-proof properties and increases its wear resistance. The impregnation adds a silky sheen to the surfaces and enhances the natural qualities of the wood. Suitable for light and dark rocks. Completely natural impregnation is optimal for finishing wooden floors, stairs, doors, furniture and other items subject to intense wear.

Linseed oil and wood wax are easy to make yourself. The easiest way: add grated beeswax to the oil heated in a water bath and bring to a homogeneous consistency. The classic proportion by weight is 1:1. The ratio of wax and linseed oil can be varied, creating compositions of varying degrees of viscosity: from thick mastics to liquid impregnations that penetrate deep into the wood structure.

How to avoid spontaneous combustion?

The process of oil oxidation upon contact with air is accompanied by an increase in temperature, which can lead to spontaneous combustion of steam-oil rags, swabs, sponges, etc. All consumables that were used to wipe off linseed oil should be thoroughly dried outdoors in a straightened state before disposal, and it is better to soak in water or immediately burn them. Sealed containers are used to store the dispenser and other tools in contact with oil.

Lineups on oil based- This one-stop solution suitable for decorative finishing of any wood. They do not create a durable and wear-resistant coating, but they have a wide range of other advantages: excellent adhesion, ease of application, antiseptic protection, and environmental friendliness. Processing wood with oil does not create a film on the surface of the product, it allows you to emphasize the natural beauty of the texture of the material and tactilely feel its texture.

A simple application technology avoids streaks, smudges, brush marks and other defects. If necessary, the finish can be easily removed and updated. As a rule, oil is used for wooden objects that are not subject to intense abrasion and moisture.

What oils are most in demand?

Linseed oil - it is distinguished by ease of application, deep penetration into the structure of wood, high resistance to environmental influences. The main disadvantage is the long drying process (up to 3 days). Processing of large-pored wood with linseed oil is carried out in several layers.

Drying oil This is boiled linseed oil. Due to the presence of desiccants in its composition - catalysts that accelerate drying, the polymerization process takes no more than a day, which makes this type of finish much more practical.

Tung oil , obtained from the seeds of the Chinese tung tree, effectively emphasizes the texture of wood and forms a wear-resistant matte finish. The drying process takes about 24 hours. If linseed oil is more suitable for restoring old surfaces, then the use of tung oil is more appropriate when finishing new products.

Danish oil - finishing composition based on natural vegetable oils with the addition of resins and absorbent substances. Wood treatment with Danish oil allows you to emphasize its natural texture and create a durable matte finish. Drying time: 4-12 hours depending on the characteristics of the composition.

teak oil - mixture natural oils, resins and absorbent components. Finishing the wood with teak oil results in a durable decorative coating with glossy effect. The drying process takes 4-6 hours, depending on the specific composition.

What is dry oil residue?

The percentage of dry oil residue is an important characteristic that determines the features of the finishing composition. Dry residue is understood as the percentage of non-volatile substances in the oil - these are various hardening additives, waxes, inclusions that improve absorption, etc. The higher the percentage of dry residue of the product, the better the covering ability it has. Accordingly, oil high content dry residue requires fewer application layers. At the same time, the process of drying (polymerization) of such compositions takes more time.

How to properly prepare the surface?

Before applying the finishing composition, the surface of the wood is ground using abrasives of various grain sizes:

• wood with an open structure (oak, etc.) - coarse abrasives P150-P180;
• wood with a closed structure (maple, beech, etc.) - fine-grained abrasives P180-P240.

The sanded surface is dusted with a damp lint-free cloth. When applying the finish to oily woods (iroko, teak, etc.), it is recommended to additionally wipe the surface with white spirit.

How to treat wood with oil: general principles

The oil is applied to the prepared and dried surface with a swab or brush, followed by rubbing. Evenly distributing a plentiful amount of oil on a wooden surface, it must be allowed to soak (about 15 minutes), then wipe the excess composition along the fibers using a swab. Otherwise, the surface will be glossy, sticky, with possible staining.

Spread the oil evenly to avoid spotting. Edges and ends should be treated first, because. due to the capillary effect, they absorb the finishing composition more intensively. In multi-layer processing, each new layer is applied after the previous one has completely dried, with preliminary grinding with a fine-grained abrasive.

The optimum temperature for wood treatment with oil is 15-25°C. At indicators below 10 ° C and high humidity, it is better to temporarily abandon work.

Professional intricacies of oil application

If stains form on the surface, increase the amount of oil applied.

To give the composition a more liquid consistency, necessary for even distribution over the surface, place the container of oil in hot water. Avoid contact with open flames.

Oil should not be applied under direct sun exposure, as it will absorb too quickly, which in turn will make re-treatment more difficult.

Use a special dispenser to impregnate the surface - a simple and ergonomic device that promotes uniform application and economical consumption of the composition.

How does the oil lay on the stain?

Oil and stain - not the best, but quite acceptable combination. Any stain impairs the absorbency of subsequent compositions, because. partially fills the pores. In combination with oils, only water-based stains can be used. At the same time, practice shows that tinting pastes for tinting oils are a more effective alternative to stain in this case.

How long does it take for oil to dry?

• linseed oil - 2-3 days;
• linseed drying oil - 24 hours;
• tung oil - 24 hours;
• polyurethane oil varnish - 12 hours;
• Danish oil - 4-12 hours;
• teak oil - 4-6 tsp.

Since oils harden (polymerize) during the oxidation process, reacting with oxygen, products must be dried in a room with constant air circulation.

What you need to know about the risks of spontaneous combustion?

Reacting with oxygen, oils oxidize. This process is accompanied by heating, which can provoke spontaneous combustion of cleaning cloths and other items used in the course of work. Therefore, never leave oil-soaked rags rolled up: dry them unfolded outside and only then dispose of them. All items and materials (sanding felt, dispenser, sponges, etc.) that have come into contact with oil should be stored in a sealed metal container.

Oil treatment of wood is a traditional way of caring for wooden surfaces. Oil compositions ensure the safety of the material for many years of operation, give the surface hydrophobic properties and protect against the development of all kinds of adverse processes. However, oil treatment is not such a simple operation as it seems at first glance. The application of oil products to wood has its own characteristics, without knowing which, you can get a completely opposite result and spoil the coating. In this review, we will focus on how to apply oil on wood, what subtleties and nuances exist in this work.

The most common oils used for wood processing:

• tung;
• teak;
• tar;
• linen.

Each of the presented oils has its own characteristics, short review of all means is given in the article. Here we will focus on the criteria for choosing an oil, and also consider the best way to cover a tree in a particular case.

1. The most popular of these products is flaxseed oil. It is versatile and can be used both outside and inside the house. Linen impregnation is great for wet rooms, because. has good hydrophobic properties. The oil dries long enough, up to three weeks, to speed up the process, wax is added to it. At negative temperatures the oil becomes hard, which complicates the processing of external surfaces.
2. Tar oil is ideal for treating log facades and timber houses. It perfectly withstands all weather conditions and is resistant to sub-zero temperatures. In addition, it is one of the best natural antiseptics, and protects external surfaces from decay. It is undesirable to use tar impregnation indoors, since it contains turpentine.
3. Teak oil is suitable for impregnation of any surfaces, it provides effective protection from moisture, from UV radiation and other adverse factors. This tool is also used to cover expensive wood species.
4. Tung oil is intended for the treatment of internal surfaces. It differs from other types of oils in a higher drying rate. The oil creates a durable film that has a high water-repellent effect. Very often used for the restoration of antiques.

All the above oils are natural products, their use does not cause any adverse effects on humans. Today, mineral oil, which is based on petroleum products, is often used for surface treatment.

Manufacturers claim that synthetics are safe and can be used for processing interior spaces. However, this is not the case, synthetic additives are released into the atmosphere and are harmful to health. Therefore, the use of artificial oils is permissible only outside, and only if the product has undergone deep cleaning.

The choice of oil according to the type of wood

When choosing a particular oil, you should always consider the wood species. To determine how the oiled surface will look, it is necessary to test on a small section.

1. Conifers contain resins that prevent the penetration of oil into the structure, so they do not need oil impregnation. To protect the surface, in case of emergency, you can use thick compositions in one layer or process the tree of this species by waxing.
2. For low density wood, alder and linden, it is also better to use thick saturated impregnations. The use of fluid compositions is undesirable, since with deep penetration, they remain inside in a liquid state.
3. Beech and birch are characterized by high density, and therefore, they are first treated with liquid compositions, and then with thicker ones, which have a high degree of dry residue, and with wax.

What can dilute the oil

To improve one or another characteristic of the oil, various components are added to it. For example, to increase the absorbency of tung oil, it is diluted by 40% with white spirit.

To increase the drying rate of linseed oil, it is mixed with turpentine in a ratio (70:30) and then heated. However, it should be noted that turpentine is toxic and has a pungent odor, so this composition can only be used for external processing. Tar is less toxic and can also be added to oil to speed up the drying process.

To impregnate wooden surfaces inside the house, wax is added to the oil. It increases the water-repellent and antistatic properties of the surface and accelerates the process of solidification of the oil composition.

If you want to change the color of the wood or get a more saturated shade, you can tint the oil with pigments. Tinting allows you to ennoble the look of a wooden house, painting it in natural tones more valuable tree species.

If you want to give the house an unnatural color for wood (red, green, blue), add to the impregnation oil paints or casein oil tempera. You can also dilute the oil with gouache, but in this case, mixing must be done hot to remove excess liquid from the paint.

Oil application technologies

There are three ways to paint wood with oil:

1. Vacuum impregnation. This technique is commonly used in industrial settings. Such processing requires special equipment, so it is impossible to cover the surface using this technology on your own.
2. Soaking. The method consists in placing the tree in heated oil, soaking for a certain time, and then drying it. In this way, only small wooden products can be painted.
3. Layer coating. This technology is the most common. It is used to treat wooden surfaces different area. This method is discussed in detail below.

Preparatory work

Properly preparing the surface is 80% of success in this work. Oil is very strongly absorbed and under it it is impossible to hide defects. Any scuffs, scratches, bumps after applying the oil will remain noticeable. So here the main task- bring the surface to an ideal state.

It is quite difficult to do this manually, it is advisable to use professional equipment – grinders, pads for polishing. If there are no special tools, you can do the work yourself, but of course, the appearance of the surface will be far from ideal.

So what needs to be done:

1. If you have to oil an old log house, first of all, remove the old coating. Paint or varnish is removed with a metal brush. This must be done very carefully so as not to damage the wood itself. If it is not possible to clean off the coating in this way, you can heat it with a building hair dryer, when the paint bubbles, it can be removed with a spatula.
2. Then you need to carefully sand the wood. Professionals perform this operation using a grinder with circles of different grain sizes, which are selected based on the condition of the surface. For rough cleaning, nozzles No. 40-80 are used, for medium - No. 100-120, for polishing - No. 150-180. If there are no machines, you can grind by hand sandpaper different factions.
3. Before finishing polishing, all cracks and cracks must be repaired. It is necessary to putty with putty in the color of the wood so that the patches remain invisible after applying the oil.
4. After graduation preparatory work all dust must be removed with construction vacuum cleaner. The remaining dust will also be visible after applying the oil, so do this work as carefully as possible.

Oil application instructions

Interior surface treatment

The oil can be applied cold or hot. Application rules are the same for both options. The difference is in the temperature of the oil impregnation. In the first case, oil is used room temperature, in the second - before use, the composition is heated to a temperature of 80 degrees. It is also necessary to warm the surface itself with a special thermal pad, since it will not work to soak a cold tree with hot oil, the product will not be able to be absorbed and will remain on the surface.

Regardless of the chosen method, you need to paint a tree with oil in stages:

1. First, the first layer of impregnation is applied. The oil is applied with a brush or cotton cloth in a thin layer and evenly distributed over the surface.
2. Remove excess oil immediately, if this is not done, the impregnation will dry out and form a crust, which will then be very difficult to remove. To remove excess oil, you need to wipe this place with a dry cloth. It is necessary to rub the impregnation until the rag collects the oil. If the oil is not absorbed and lies on the surface of the floor, you can take rubber spatula and rake the excess with them into puddles, and then collect with a rag.
3. The surface is then polished soft cloth. After that, all wet areas are wiped dry with a cotton cloth.
4. With a cold method of processing, the application of the second layer is started no earlier than 5 hours, in some cases it is necessary to wait up to 12 hours. It depends on the type of oil. The second treatment with hot oil can be done after 2-2.5 hours, because. it dries out much faster.
5. Re-processing is carried out similarly to the first, each layer must be polished. The number of layers depends on the condition of the surface, tree species and type of oil. Usually 2-3 layers are enough.

It takes two to three weeks for the surface to dry completely, the exact period depends on the combination of the factors listed above.

House treatment outside

Applying oil on the facade of a house made of timber and logs should be done in warm sunny weather. It is advisable to prime the surface before this. Let's take linseed oil as an example. If the treatment is carried out with oil from flax, it must first be cleaned of impurities, since under the influence of solar radiation the flax impregnation turns yellow.