We insulate a garage inexpensively from the inside with our own hands: how to insulate walls with polystyrene foam. How to insulate a concrete garage with your own hands? Insulating a garage with boards

Maintaining the right temperature in the garage is key long term car service and other tools, . In order to retain heat in such rooms for as long as possible, it is necessary to properly insulate them, both outside and inside. Fortunately, today insulating a garage from the inside with your own hands has become quite simple matter. Almost every car enthusiast can do this.

In our country, most garages are a metal structure, which is very difficult to warm up. No matter how actively such a room is heated, its heat loss will be maximum. For such structures, it is necessary to carry out insulation work first.

If we consider a concrete or brick garage, then in such cases it will be much easier to insulate the garage with your own hands, and the result will be many times higher.

To the inexperienced layman it may seem that the main purpose of conducting thermal insulation works garage premises is to increase the temperature to room temperature (on average +20). But such an opinion can confidently be called erroneous. The temperature considered comfortable for humans is not suitable for equipment and cars. Sudden thermal changes, when a car drives from cold to warm, cause condensation to form. The resulting moisture settles on the car’s parts, which is critical for it. Therefore, experts concluded that the result of insulating the garage should be a temperature of +5 degrees. This indicator is considered as close as possible to the ideal storage conditions for the car.

Another misconception of car owners is that before insulating the garage from the inside, they seal all the holes and cracks in it into which air from the outside could penetrate. At first glance, this decision may seem correct, but this is only at first glance. In fact, quite a lot of harmful substances which are considered hazardous to human health. The materials themselves used for thermal insulation of the garage can release the same substances. In addition, all moisture entering the room can only disappear through weathering. This state of affairs suggests that before insulating the garage with your own hands, it is necessary to build a decent ventilation system in it.

If we consider the question: “How to properly insulate a garage - from the outside or from the inside?”, then the correct answer would be “Outside!” The fact is that insulating a garage from the outside has a number of advantages over internal insulation:

It does not steal extra centimeters of usable space;
It completely eliminates the risk of room freezing;
It is not fraught with the influence of harmful substances released by insulation in a closed space.

All these arguments speak in favor of external insulation of garage premises, but we should not forget about financial side This question - insulating the walls of the garage from the inside will cost a little less. However, in this situation, excessive savings will be unnecessary, since we are talking about human health. As mentioned above, before insulating the garage from the inside, it is necessary to provide ventilation. The second important issue is materials - you shouldn’t skimp on them either.

Many people ask the question: “How to insulate the walls in a garage inexpensively?” The answer is simple: “You can insulate a garage cheaply, but is it worth it?” The fact is that good thermal insulation material will cost more. In addition, when choosing insulation for a garage, you must pay attention to its characteristics, which must meet specific requirements. After all, all garage spaces are different and each of them may require its own type of thermal insulation.

Here is a list of the main materials used in our country for garage insulation:

This type of thermal insulation has been used effectively for a very long time. Mineral wool allows you to protect the room from the cold, while allowing it to breathe. For garage walls, it is best to use basalt wool, which has the best sound and heat insulation characteristics. The big disadvantage of this insulating material is the fear of moisture. Therefore, when using it, it is necessary to ensure good vapor barrier.

You can also insulate garage walls using this material. Its advantage is its low cost. But glass wool also has a number of disadvantages. These include: the need for maximum protection of the entire body (especially hands and face) during work, fear of moisture (wet material is not suitable for use) and mandatory insulation.

Today this material is considered the most popular for insulating houses and garages. The advantages of polystyrene foam include its relative cheapness, ease of use, and resistance to moisture and rotting. But it also has its drawbacks - poor breathability, flammability and fear of sunlight. That is why it is better to insulate the walls inside the garage with polystyrene foam, but for this you only need to use special self-extinguishing polystyrene foam.

This type of insulation is a roll of foil, on one side of which foamed polyurethane foam is applied. A huge advantage of reflective insulation is its thickness, which allows you to save space indoors. However, you should not place high hopes on this type of insulation - the principle of its operation is based on the reflection of heat in its mirror surface, and with induction and convection in a garage, this principle is not effective.

This type of insulation is plaster with various admixtures (expanded polystyrene grains, vermiculite and sawdust) that give it a thermal insulation effect. However, it is worth noting that it is advisable to use this type of insulation only in addition to other heat insulators, since its independent use is impractical. To get the desired effect, you need to apply a very thick layer of insulating plaster.

This type of thermal insulation is also based on the addition of additional substances to the paint composition, which allow retaining heat inside the room. Thermal insulation paint can be used for wood, metal and plastic surfaces. Therefore, this type of insulation is ideal for wooden garage, as it will allow the tree to breathe.

Floor insulation

If the garage has a cellar or basement, then in this situation, floor insulation will be unnecessary. If there are no such premises, then any insulation will need to start with the floor covering. Let's look at the three most popular methods of floor insulation.

Floor insulation with expanded clay

We remove the top layer of soil to a depth of 45 cm.
We lay out any waterproofing material (for example, roofing felt) along the bottom of the resulting hole so that it extends another 10 cm onto the walls.
Using cement or gypsum mortar, we install beacons, which will serve as a level.
We fill the roofing material with expanded clay in a layer of 25-30 cm.
We remove the beacons and fill their places with expanded clay.
Lay on expanded clay reinforcing mesh 10x10cm.
We attach new beacons.
Fill the floor with concrete screed.
Let the solution dry and set (do not put pressure on the floor for at least a month).

Floor insulation with polystyrene foam under screed

This type of thermal insulation will allow you not to remove the top layer of soil, but at the same time it will “steal” about 20 cm of height from the room.

Thoroughly clean the floor of debris and dust (preferably using a vacuum cleaner).
We cover the floor surface with any waterproofing material(roofing felt or dense polyethylene).
We lay foam plastic with a thickness of at least 10 cm and a density of C-25 on the waterproofing. Expanded polystyrene boards should fit together as tightly as possible.
We cover the foam with another layer of waterproofing.
We place a reinforcing mesh on it.
We make a concrete floor screed.

Floor insulation with polystyrene foam under a wooden covering

This method of insulation allows you to take away only 10cm of the room’s height. To use it, you can use polystyrene foam of any density, but the boards should have a thickness of 5 cm. You also need to stock up on 5x5cm timber.

Thoroughly clean the floor surface from debris and dust.
We construct logs from timber, and tightly lay polystyrene foam between them. The logs should be located close to the wall.
We lay waterproofing material on top of the polystyrene foam.
We cover the floor with a board.

Important! A tongue and groove board is not suitable for such purposes - it requires very rigid fastening.

Wall insulation

There are several ways to insulate garage walls - the choice will depend on the material from which the building is constructed. Insulation of a brick or concrete garage can be done using mineral or glass wool, foam plastic, for metal structures polystyrene foam in slabs, polyurethane foam or heat-insulating paint are best suited. Please note that you will probably have to install .

Insulation of walls with foam plastic under plaster

We clean the wall surface from old coatings.
Use putty to level the walls.
We prime them.
We nail a wooden plank to the wall, which will serve as a level.
Apply special glue to the polystyrene foam (10cm) either spotwise or over the entire surface.
We press the polystyrene foam sheet against the wall and additionally fix it with several dowels.
Cover the fixed foam with a thick layer (25-30mm) of glue.
We embed the reinforcing mesh in the glue.
We plaster the entire surface of the wall.

Insulation of walls with foam plastic under plasterboard, lining

We create a sheathing on the wall from timber or profiles with a step equal to the size of the foam sheet.
We fix the sheathing to the wall and ceiling.
We place sheets of foam plastic into the resulting windows and fix them with liquid nails.
We seal all cracks with foam.
We cover the outside of the sheathing with plasterboard or clapboard.

Wall insulation with mineral wool

This technology is very similar to the previous one - we insulate the walls using lathing. The only difference is that the mineral wool on both sides must be carefully covered with waterproofing material.

Before insulating the walls, it is advisable to also insulate the garage doors. First, you need to cut out a gate in the gate - such a manipulation will help reduce heat loss without the need for the car to leave. Then you can insulate the gate using the scheme used for insulating the walls:

We cover the gate from the inside with a layer of polyethylene;
We nail them wooden frame(it is advisable to treat the frame with drying oil or any other antiseptic);
We fill the frame with thermal insulation material;
We sew up the foam with clapboard or plywood (something light).

To enhance the thermal insulation effect inside the garage, just behind the gate, you can hang a plastic tape curtain.

The last step on the path to complete thermal insulation of the garage is the process of insulating its roof.

If the garage roof is made of wooden planks, then the insulation can be attached directly to it using nails or umbrella dowels.

If the ceiling is made of concrete floors, then it is advisable to use the wooden frame already mentioned above. It is advisable to attach the frame to the roof with metal corners or self-tapping screws, and the foam plastic to it with tape or glue. The finished structure must be covered with any type of material - drywall, lining, plywood.

As you can see from the article, insulating a garage is not that difficult. The main thing is that the master has patience, a small supply of funds and the necessary tools.

Modern thermal insulation materials make it possible to perform high-quality comprehensive insulation of a garage with your own hands. Thanks to well-organized internal insulation, an almost constant temperature will be maintained in the garage, which will have a favorable effect on the service life of finishing materials and, in general, everything in the room.

There is nothing complicated about insulating yourself. Just read the instructions and do everything in accordance with the recommendations received.

You don’t need to spend a lot of money on such insulation, but you need to take the time to dig a pit about 45 cm deep.

First step. Place roofing felt or other waterproofing material in the prepared hole. The material is laid with a 10-centimeter overlap on the walls.

Second step. Set up beacons to guide you when backfilling. Typically, the function of beacons is performed by cut reinforcement. You can use any other suitable materials. Secure the beacons with plaster or cement mortar.

Third step. Fill in a 25-30 cm layer of expanded clay. Gradually remove the beacons and fill in the recesses remaining from them.

Fourth step. Lay the reinforcing mesh. Traditionally, a mesh with cells of 10x10 cm is used. You can buy the mesh or make it yourself from metal wire.

Fifth step. Fill the screed. Use standard cement-sand mortar. For greater convenience, you can pre-install beacons. It is important that the screed is absolutely horizontal. Level the fill and let it dry. It is recommended to create any loads on the floor at least a month after pouring the screed.

If desired, you can refuse to dig a pit and expanded clay, using simple insulation technology using polystyrene foam boards. The disadvantage is that the height of the room will decrease by about 20 cm. However, the insulation can be laid directly on the existing floor.

First step. Vacuum and sweep the surface thoroughly.

Second step. Place plastic film or other waterproofing material, for example, roofing felt, on the floor.

Third step. Place the polystyrene foam boards as closely as possible to each other. The thickness of the foam must be at least 10 cm. The minimum permissible density is C-25.

Fourth step. Place another layer of moisture-proofing material on top of the foam.

Fifth step. Lay the reinforcing mesh.

Sixth step. Fill the screed. Follow the recommendations given in the instructions for insulating with expanded clay.

The advantage of this option is that the thermal insulation will “steal” only 10 cm of the room’s height. Foam plastic of any density is suitable, because... in the future he will not have to endure any stress. It is most convenient to use sheets measuring 100x50x5 cm. For flooring, use boards 5 cm thick.

Choose the width and length at your discretion. Also prepare a 5x5 cm beam for laying the logs. Neither joists nor boards will be attached to the floor. The flooring will “walk” a little, but in the future there will be no difficulties in replacing rotten and broken boards.

First stage. Vacuum and sweep the floor thoroughly.

Second phase. Alternately lay logs and foam sheets on the floor. There should be logs near the walls.

Third stage. Cover the insulation with a layer of vapor barrier film.

Fourth stage. Lay the wooden boards as a continuous deck. An ordinary unplaned board will do. It is better to avoid using tongue and groove boards for such work, because... Without rigid fastening, they quickly deform.

After insulating the floor, proceed to the thermal insulation device garage doors. First it is recommended to do a simple thermal curtain from available materials, namely, polyethylene film with a thickness of 0.8 mm.

First step . Take polyethylene and cut it into strips. Select the length of the strips so that when fastened on top of the gateway, their lower edge does not reach the floor by approximately 1.5 cm. Maintain the width of the strips within 20-30 cm.

Too narrow stripes will cling to car elements, for example, external mirrors. Too wide ones will interfere with normal entry and exit from the garage. The suggested width is the most optimal.

Second step. Attach a wooden strip to the top of the gate opening.

Third step. Attach strips of polyethylene to the lath. For this it is convenient to use construction stapler. Can be nailed down. The strips are attached with an overlap of about 20 mm.

The thermal insulation of the gate does not end there. A polyethylene curtain will only help reduce the amount of heat escaping through the open gate. For achievement maximum effect the design needs additional insulation. Typically, foam is used for this.

First step. Attach plastic film to the gate in any way convenient for you.

Second step. Install a wooden frame over the waterproofing. It can be assembled from slats or timber. The main thing is that the width of the composite element approximately corresponds to the thickness of the foam used. Attach the bars at such a distance that the insulation sheets fit between them as tightly as possible.

Third step. Treat the frame elements with heated drying oil or a special antiseptic.

Fourth step. Place foam between the sheathing beams. The foam itself is attached to the surface using glue. It is desirable that the glue is waterproof. The sheets should fit as tightly as possible to the garage door leaf.

Fifth step. Take a cylinder polyurethane foam and seal the joints between the insulation boards.

Sixth step. Cover the thermal insulation with a material that is denser than foam, for example, thin clapboard or other lightweight material.

For internal insulation For garage walls, foam boards are best suited. It is easy to install, inexpensive and effective heat insulator.

The first step is preparing the walls. Remove existing coating. If it is missing, clean the surfaces from any existing contaminants. Fill defects with putty. Use putty to level the walls. The technology for laying polystyrene foam requires that the base be as level as possible, so pay special attention to this point.

The second step is surface treatment. Be sure to treat the walls with a special antifungal compound and cover them with a primer. Thanks to the primer, better adhesion of the insulation boards to the base will be ensured.

The third step is laying thermal insulation. In most cases, slabs 10 cm thick are sufficient. For cold northern regions, the thickness of the thermal insulation layer can be increased. Apply glue designed for working with such material to the insulation sheet. Can be applied in a continuous layer or dotted. Before laying out the first row of insulation, nail a wooden strip to the wall. Use dowels to secure.

Thanks to this element, the evenness of the installation of the slabs will be ensured. Attach the foam with glue to the wall and press firmly. Additionally, each slab must be secured with 3-4 dowels.

The fourth step is strengthening the thermal insulation. Cover the surface with a fairly thick layer of glue (about 25-30 mm) and embed the reinforcing mesh in it.

The fifth step is plastering. The thickness of the plaster layer should be such that the finish completely covers the reinforcing mesh, and the coating is as even as possible.

Finally, the walls need to be painted or sheathed. finishing material at the owner's choice.

Finally, you need to install thermal insulation for the garage floor. The order of fastening the thermal insulation sheets will vary depending on the design features of the roof. If the structure is made of boards, it will be enough to simply nail the foam boards to it with umbrella-type dowels or nails. Placed on top of the insulation polyethylene film. It needs to be attached to the boards using long screws.

If the ceiling is made of concrete, insulation will require preliminary construction of the frame. The usual lathing is made, already familiar to you from the previous sections of the instructions. Insulation is placed in the spaces between the frame bars. First, it is secured with available means, for example, adhesive tape, and then pressed with sheathing sheets. The finishing sheathing is secured to the frame using nails, dowels or other suitable fasteners.

Instead of polystyrene foam, you can use mineral wool. The technology remains the same. The only thing is that before laying the slabs, you need to attach a waterproofing material, for example, polyethylene, to the surface, and cover the laid slabs with a vapor barrier material.

At this point, the thermal insulation work can be completed. If you wish, you can do finishing your favorite materials.

Good luck!

Video - Insulating a garage from the inside with your own hands

Heat conservation is a prerequisite for any room that will be used in winter time of the year. This is especially true for garage buildings, which are open to “all winds” and, for the most part, are not suitable for installation central heating. Adaptation of the garage to winter conditions is carried out through internal or external wall insulation, which allows you to maintain a positive temperature inside the room even in severe frosts.

Where to insulate: inside or outside?

To retain heat inside the garage, it is necessary to create a screen made of insulating material that will not let in the cold from outside and will keep internal heat. The thermal insulation layer can be located both outside and inside the building - the principle of heat conservation is the same in both cases, however, each option has its own nuances that should be taken into account. External thermal insulation is more effective, as it prevents the cold from reaching the walls and does not affect inner part garage. But at the same time, this method of insulation is more expensive and labor-intensive - creating a camouflage facade that will hide the insulation will not be cheap.

Internal insulation reduces the internal area of the garage by the thickness of the insulating material, but at the same time it costs several times less and does not require special skills for self-installation. If your main goal is to directly prepare the garage for cold weather and you are not planning large-scale construction work, then this method of insulation will be the optimal solution.

Material selection

Almost any material with a porous or fibrous structure can be used as insulation - mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, organic insulation, etc. In general, for insulating a garage, it is appropriate to use any of the above names, if you are guided by the principle “it won’t get worse.” However, if you have the opportunity to choose, it is better to familiarize yourself with all the advantages and disadvantages various types insulation to choose the most suitable name for a particular situation.

Polyfoam - universal insulation for the garage

Styrofoam. Foam boards are characterized by low cost - this is the cheapest insulation material in the world. domestic market. The advantages of this material include its low weight, moisture resistance and ease of processing. Obvious disadvantages include a high fire hazard and a fragile structure.
Expanded polystyrene. It has all the technical advantages of foam plastic, but at the same time it is a less flammable and more durable material. The price of insulation is slightly higher than its foam counterpart, but it does not exceed acceptable limits.
Mineral, basalt wool. A more advanced analogue of glass wool, popular in the Soviet Union. Absolutely not flammable material. A critical disadvantage of mineral wool is its fibrous structure, which absorbs water like a sponge - with high humidity, the insulation gets wet, losing thermal insulation properties and promoting fungal development.
Organic insulation. An analogue of mineral wool on an organic basis (linen, cotton, etc.) is an environmentally friendly material of natural origin. Unlike mineral wool, organic insulation is flammable.

Mineral wool is popular, but not reliable in damp conditions

The most suitable material for insulating a garage, regardless of the material from which it is made, is insulation based on foam plastic or expanded polystyrene, due to ease of installation, moisture resistance and reasonable price. Fiber insulation is less preferable due to its structure, since in an unheated room it is not always possible to maintain an optimal level of humidity. However, this does not mean that the use of cotton wool materials is categorically not recommended - their use is also appropriate, although not as preferable.

Important! If there is a stove, heater or other heat sources in the garage, then the area where they are located must be insulated with mineral wool to prevent fire and the release of toxins due to excessive heat.

Material calculation

The calculation of the material is carried out by calculating the quadrature of the insulated area - the length of the wall is multiplied by its height. This way you will get the number of square meters that need to be insulated. The thickness of the insulation is directly proportional to its thermal insulation properties.

Since the thermal insulation layer requires an outer shell, in addition to insulation, it is also necessary to purchase consumables for assembling and covering the frame. To form the frame, it is better to use metal profiles that are not afraid of moisture and are quite easy to install. The calculation of the footage of the supporting profile is carried out taking into account the fact that the distance between load-bearing elements the frame should not exceed 50−60 cm. It is also necessary to take into account the presence of intermediate fasteners. The footage of the guides is equal to the perimeter of the room multiplied by 2.

To cover the frame, it is best to use moisture-resistant plasterboard, which contains moisture-repellent impregnation and antifungal additives - an inexpensive, fire-resistant and easy-to-process material. Calculation required quantity sheets is carried out in the same way as in the case of insulating material.

Important! Based on the data obtained, you should remember about possible unforeseen situations and purchase material with a small reserve, which on average is about 10-15% of the initial quantity.

Insulation of walls in a garage from the inside

Frame installation

Installation of the frame is necessary for the subsequent installation of decorative sheathing, which will hide the insulation from prying eyes. During the installation process you will need the following tools:

Hammer drill;
Screwdriver;
Metal scissors;
Level;

Ready frame for drywall

All fasteners in the wall are pre-drilled with a hammer drill, then self-tapping dowels are inserted into the holes and tightened with a screwdriver. The metal profile is easily cut with metal scissors, in almost any position. The frame in the garage is assembled as follows:

First of all, guides are mounted on the ceiling and floor into which the supporting profile will be inserted. They must be parallel to each other - first, the guide is mounted on the ceiling, and then, using a level or plumb line, the guide on the floor is adjusted. The distance from the wall should allow the insulation to be placed so that it does not “push” the sheathing. There must be a sealing tape between the base and the guide, which will absorb small irregularities and create a tighter connection.

Important! When attaching the profile, it is necessary to take into account differences in the surface - it should not be “swayed” by excessive bending. Deep differences, especially if the dowel becomes clogged in them, must be smoothed out with stands, and protruding parts must be removed.

Before installing the supporting profiles on the wall, supporting brackets are mounted, which impart rigidity to the entire structure. The bracket is a metal plate with perforated edges - the middle is mounted to the wall, and the edges are bent to form a “U” shaped figure into which the supporting profile will be inserted. The pendants are located along a strictly vertical line, which is measured using a plumb line or level. The step between the vertical lines can be 60, 40 or 30 cm - the larger the step, the weaker the structure will be.

Important! If necessary, you can choose the step between the guides arbitrarily, within the mentioned values, however, in this case you will have to constantly adjust the plasterboard sheets, since their standard width is 140 cm.

The supporting profiles are inserted into the guides along the hangers. Fixation in guides and hangers is carried out using a screwdriver and small metal screws. The general plane is adjusted using a rule, or using a fishing line stretched between the outer profiles.
Between the carriers, with a similar step, transverse frame elements are installed, which are made from a profile - they are necessary to strengthen the structure. As a fixing connection, you can use single-level “crab” connectors or simply cut off the sides of the profile, forming a tongue that is attached directly to the surface of the supporting profile.

Attaching the profile to the suspension

Waterproofing

Fiber insulation is very sensitive to moisture - in this case you cannot do without waterproofing. To avoid getting the wool wet, it is necessary to create a sealed, waterproof layer between the wall and the insulation. For this purpose, membrane film or any other flexible waterproof material is used. After the frame is completely assembled, it is covered with waterproofing material. The film should not be pulled, it should lie freely, fastening to the profile is carried out using staples. The main thing is to create a sealed barrier for condensation - the overlap between the edges of the strips should be at least 10 cm. The junction is taped.

When thinking about the need for waterproofing, we should not forget that its main function is to protect the insulation from small amounts of moisture that can seep in from the outside. It is insurance against unforeseen situations, and not a panacea - if there is high humidity from the walls, it is necessary to carry out comprehensive work on external waterproofing. Internal waterproofing in this case will be a temporary and short-lived solution to the problem.

Installation of insulation

Insulation of walls with foam plastic

Before starting insulation, the walls must be cleared of strongly protruding elements: fittings, metal fasteners, etc. If there are through gaps in the wall, then they must be covered with concrete or plaster mortar (sand 1:2 cement based on the weight of the components) to remove drafts.

The process of installing insulation largely depends on the structure of the material - polystyrene foam and expanded polystyrene with a block form factor can be mounted using glue, while mineral wool is fixed only with self-tapping dowels. Insulation of walls with polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene is carried out in the following order:

The walls are cleaned of dust and primed with a special compound to improve adhesion (degree of “stickiness”). After the primer has completely dried, you can proceed directly to the installation of insulation.
The insulation is installed from the bottom up; the sheets must be cut exactly to fit the opening between the supporting profiles. Adhesive composition is applied to the surface of the insulation using a calibration spatula, after which the block is pressed against the wall. Since the material is very light, there is no need to additionally press or fix the block until the glue is completely polymerized.
After the glue has set, the blocks can be additionally secured using self-tapping dowels with wide plastic caps or bolts if the garage is made of sheet iron.

Installation of mineral wool or its varieties is carried out using self-tapping dowels with wide plastic caps, which fix the block in five places - in the corners and in the center. The insulation process is carried out as follows:

Before installation, at the bottom of the wall, it is necessary to install a profile or strip so that the wool does not touch the floor and does not absorb moisture.
The insulation is cut so that the width of the strips exceeds the width of the opening between the supporting profiles by 1 - 2 cm.
The mats are driven into the openings between the profiles; there should be no gaps or voids left. The insulation is fixed with dowel screws with plastic caps or bolts if the garage is made of sheet iron.

In this case, we mean a design in which the profile is pressed tightly or very close to the wall. If the distance between the profile and the wall is large enough, then a solid thermal insulation coating is formed, in which recesses are cut for fastening the frame.

Covering the finished frame with plasterboard

The plasterboard sheets are fastened using self-tapping screws 25 mm long. The sheets must be positioned so that the edge falls exactly in the middle of the supporting profile. The distance between the screws should not exceed 20 cm, while the caps must be sunk into the surface by approximately 1 mm. First of all, whole sheets are mounted, then inserts. Drywall is cut using a utility knife - the sheet is cut deeply on one side, and then simply broken in the direction opposite to the cut.

Insulating gates with your own hands

Insulating gates with foam plastic

Iron garage doors let in not only your car, but also the cold outside - the metal instantly freezes and does not protect against frost in any way. For insulating gates with inside it is necessary to assemble the frame for the sheathing. It is most convenient to use wood as a material - a frame is assembled from timber, reinforced with intermediate inserts. The beam is attached to the gate using metal screws.

Assembling a wooden frame

It is advisable to glue the insulation sheets to the surface of the gate to avoid the appearance of condensation on the surface of the metal. Due to this circumstance, the use of polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam is more preferable. After installing the insulation, the frame is sheathed with plywood, tin, etc. If the gate profile implies the presence of an internal cavity sufficient for installing insulation, then you can do without installing a frame. Because sheet insulation It is light in weight; if desired, you can simply glue the sheets to the gate without assembling the frame and cladding. In this case, you will have to be more careful when operating the gate, since unprotected thermal insulation will be quite easily damaged by careless action.

Ceiling queue

Laying insulation on a garage ceiling

An uninsulated ceiling is the biggest gap in a room's thermal insulation. Unlike walls, it is more expedient to insulate the ceiling from the attic side - the insulation will be more effective and there is no need to form decorative cladding, which “eats up” useful space and finances. It is better to use polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene as insulation, although mineral wool would also be quite appropriate in this case.

External insulation of a garage is not particularly complicated - waterproofing is laid on the surface of the attic and the insulation sheets are simply laid without cracks or voids. The thickness of the insulation material must be at least 10 cm. In this case, it is important to create a dense thermal insulation layer, without so-called cold bridges - to fill the seams or hard to reach places polyurethane foam is used.

Floor

Expanded clay for insulating the floor in the garage

If the floor is formed from monolithic concrete, it also intensively “sucks” heat from the room. The only one rational decision, in this case, is backfill thermal insulation material(expanded clay) and the formation of a new concrete screed. Alternative insulation methods are inappropriate in this case, since the coating must support the weight of the car. Ideally, the thermal insulation of the floor should be carried out at the time of construction of the building, since in any other case it will be necessary to either break the old covering or form thermal insulation on top of it, which means raising the floor by 15 - 20 cm.

If the garage has already been built, then you will have to proceed from existing circumstances - the best option will completely break the concrete screed to free up enough space for the insulation backfill. However, if the height of the room allows you to raise the floor by 15 cm or more, then you can do without dismantling the old covering. If possible, it is better to purchase expanded clay of heterogeneous (fine and medium) or medium fractions in order to reduce the likelihood of voids forming. To form the screed you will need cement and sand. The work order is as follows:

The site is being prepared for filling insulation. The insulation layer must be at least 10 cm thick, optimally about 20-30 cm. You should also take into account the layer of concrete screed, which is formed at least 5 cm thick. The site must be as level as possible so that the backfill is uniform.
A layer of waterproofing is laid over the soil or old coating so that the expanded clay granules do not absorb moisture. For this purpose you can use various materials: from roofing felt to dense polyethylene film.
Insulation is poured onto the waterproofing in an even layer. To evenly distribute the expanded clay, the surface is leveled with a rule or a long level.
To strengthen the insulation granules, cement mortar is used - cement is mixed with water until a homogeneous substance is formed, which should not be too liquid or thick. The resulting mixture is poured into the top layer of expanded clay so that the cement penetrates into the voids between the granules.
After the cement mixture has completely dried, the concrete screed is poured. Concrete mortar consists of cement and sand, in a ratio of 60/40 based on the mass of the components. When making concrete mortar, it is easiest to focus on the color of the mixture, which should have a clear cement tint. A rule is used to level the filled area. The surface of the screed is smoothed with a spatula or trowel.

Important! In this case, Portland cement M400 is implied - the lower the grade, the more cement is required and vice versa. But we should not forget that the principle “the more the better” is inappropriate in this case, since excess cement will disrupt the structure of the screed.

Leveling expanded clay using the rule

Since the garage area is basically the same large sizes, it is quite acceptable to form the screed “by eye”. But if you want to get it perfect flat surface, then it is necessary to install beacons. As beacons, you can use profiles, pipes and any other material with a smooth edge. Beacons are installed using a level, thus creating limit marks that indicate the level of a perfectly flat plane.

Installing beacons is quite simple - along the edges of the room, using a hydraulic level, extreme profiles are installed, then a fishing line is stretched between them, which determines the level of the intermediate elements. The main thing is to firmly fix the beacons so that no displacement occurs during pouring. Best suited for this purpose concrete mortar with a small addition of alabaster. Beacons need to be fixed pointwise, and not along the entire length.

Important! Adding alabaster to a concrete solution significantly reduces its hardening time - the count can go by tens of seconds. Don't dilute it too much a large number of, otherwise you will not physically have time to develop it.

Cellar

If the garage has a cellar, then its insulation is also a prerequisite for creating good thermal insulation of the room. Installation of insulation in this case is carried out in the same way as in the case of the main room, with the difference that the cellar ceiling is insulated from the inside.

The procedure for insulating the ceiling:

The floor in the cellar is insulated in accordance with the same recommendations as for insulating the floor in the garage. After the work is completed, the humidity level in the cellar will rise significantly, so it is necessary to consider a high-quality ventilation system.

Insulating the garage allows you to maintain a positive temperature in the room without central heating. The only thing to remember is that you should not make the room completely sealed in order to prevent an increase in humidity. The garage must have ventilation to remove moisture from melted snow, rain and other things that the car brings with it during bad weather.

At first glance, insulating a garage may seem impractical and expensive. But this is just a misconception; today’s building materials market makes it possible to quickly and inexpensively insulate any room. Thanks to insulation, it will be possible to reduce the humidity that arises from temperature changes. And as you know, humidity stimulates metal to become corroded. Therefore, insulating the garage walls from the inside will contribute to the safety of the car.

Almost any heat-insulating material that meets the following characteristics is suitable for insulating garage walls:

Not exposed to moisture and fungus;
Has low thermal conductivity;
Fire resistant;
Has little weight;
Has a positive attitude towards temperature changes;

Which material has good thermal insulation and meets all requirements:

Styrofoam;
Glass wool or mineral wool;
Sprayed polystyrene foam;

It cannot be said that this or that material is better suited for insulating a garage. Each of them has its own specifics, advantages and disadvantages.

Insulating garage walls with mineral wool

Mineral wool is one of the most common materials for thermal insulation of a room. Advantages and disadvantages:

Mineral wool has excellent characteristics;
Has good sound insulation;
Low weight of insulation;
Easy to install;
The material is resistant to attacks by dampness and fungus, since air has the ability to circulate through the insulation layer.

Disadvantages of the material:

When wet, cotton wool loses its thermal insulation properties;
Requires good waterproofing;
The cost is several times higher than other thermal insulation materials;

Mineral wool is produced in rolls and has a foil-coated heat-generating layer. will become great solution for insulating walls in a garage.

The disadvantages include high class flammability and fear of water.

Insulating a garage using polystyrene foam

Polystyrene foam is a cheap and practical material for insulation, easy to use.

Quite cheap, but effective and versatile material. Suitable for insulating all parts of the visit. It is quickly installed, insulating the garage from the inside will take no more than 1-2 days. The advantages include:

Durability and affordability;
It is not attacked by mold and does not rot;
Excellent moisture tolerance;
Resistant to temperature changes;

Disadvantages of the material:

Subject to attacks by rodents;
Under the influence of sunlight, the foam begins to lose its structure;
Flammable quickly;

It is worth emphasizing that insulating a garage with foam plastic from the inside requires additional finishing with plaster or concreting

Spray polyurethane foam

Garage walls are treated with sprayed polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam entered the market not so long ago, but already from the first sales it gained leadership in its field. There are no questions regarding the insulating qualities, but the price of the material is too high. The principle of operation is to spray a protective layer that is completely sealed and resistant to physical and chemical influences. Polyurethane foam, as insulation for the inside of a garage, is ideal armor against frost and moisture.

It is important to know! Before insulating a brick garage from the inside, it is necessary to study the design of the roof and floor covering. Based on the information received, the choice of insulation is made.

Warm plaster

A brick garage is often insulated with special heat-insulating plaster

Quite a modern material, looks like ordinary plaster. The composition contains substances with low thermal conductivity, namely:

Expanded clay;
Expanded polystyrene;
Pumice;
Sawdust;
Vermiculite;

Polystyrene plaster performed best. The material is used both externally and internally. The price is of course high, but it is due to the best thermal insulation performance.

Warm plaster is still best used in combination with other types of thermal insulation

Working with this type of insulation is quite simple, so insulating the garage from the inside is done with your own hands.

Sawdust-based plaster is also considered quite popular. It also has excellent thermal insulation properties and can be used inside and outside. The disadvantages of such plaster include the drying time. To make the process go faster, the room must have good ventilation.

Advantages of warm plaster

The main advantage is the speed of installation. If to install other insulating materials, you initially need to prepare the walls for their fixation, then with plaster everything is different. The surface does not need to be leveled; the plaster adheres perfectly to any material. There is no need to use reinforced mesh or anything else.

Of course, compared to traditional insulation materials, plaster is significantly inferior in its characteristics. Its use alone may not be enough for good thermal insulation of the room. That's why this material It is better to use in combination with other insulation materials.

Thermal insulation paint

One of the most simple materials in use. It also appeared on the market not so long ago, but in a short period of time it was able to gain customer trust. Despite its simplicity, the paint is highly effective in thermal insulation of a room.

In the photo a layer of heat-insulating paint is applied

In terms of properties, a layer of paint is 5 mm, but in terms of efficiency they replace 1.5 meters of a brick wall. Therefore, choosing heat insulating paint To insulate the walls of the garage, the owner can’t go wrong. The unique composition of the insulation is based on the structural features and principle of operation. If other insulation simply does not allow heat to pass through itself, then thermal paint also serves as a reflector. The material has similar properties due to the vacuum that is inside the paint.

Advantages of thermal insulation paints

They have excellent thermal insulation characteristics and are not susceptible to attacks by fungus and moisture. Excellent attachment to unprepared surfaces. When using such insulation, the structure is not overloaded, since the paint layer has little weight. Fire resistant paint high temperature it does not ignite and simply smolders.

The only disadvantage is the cost of the material, but the price is fully due to many advantages.

Insulation of brick garage walls

As practice shows, it is better to insulate a garage from the outside. Thus, the insulation will protect the room from moisture and frost. But if you want to insulate the garage from the inside, you need to familiarize yourself with the sequence of work.

Insulation along the sheathing is additionally sheathed with decorative panels

Insulation of walls using lathing

When starting to build insulation for garage walls, you should remember that you need reliable waterproofing. The insulation must have ventilation, and this can be achieved by using sheathing. In the case of a built frame, it is better to use it as insulation. soft materials. For example, glass wool or mineral wool in rolls.

Insulation of a brick garage from the inside frame technology has the following points:

Cleaning the wall;
Treating the surface with an antiseptic to avoid mold and mildew;
Construction of a frame from timber or profile;

It is important to know! For construction frame structure in the garage, it is better to use a profile. They do not rot and have low cost.

Carrying out the sheathing of the garage, the distance between the profiles should not exceed one meter for long;
Laying film waterproofing, overlapped along the frame;
When laying insulation in zones, it is important not to leave gaps for cold penetration;
Finishing with plywood or other materials;

Regarding garages in which boilers are installed, it is better to use glass wool as a material for thermal insulation. External insulation is installed in the same way.

Protection of the ceiling and floor from the cold

An example of insulating a garage ceiling with mineral wool

The final stage is insulating the garage ceiling. The process is almost identical to the construction of thermal insulation of walls, but there are still some nuances. So, how can you insulate the ceiling in a garage:

It is safer to use glass wool rather than polystyrene foam.
When insulating along the sheathing, it is advisable to leave several holes through which air will circulate.
It is necessary to create good waterproofing; it is best to use roofing felt.

As sheathing, as in the case of wall insulation, it is best to use plywood.

Floor insulation

Expanded clay as insulation is often used in private garages for floor insulation

Most often, floors in garages have a soil base, so they must be insulated. Great option expanded clay and other rigid insulation materials using reinforced concrete screed will become. How to properly insulate a garage floor:

The thickness of the insulation plus the height of the screed is measured, and the top layer of soil is removed exactly to this depth.
The soil is thoroughly compacted;
A layer of waterproofing is laid, it is best to use roofing felt;

Important! It is necessary to make an allowance of roofing felt on the walls of at least 25-30 cm. The material is laid with an overlap.

Installation of beacons;
A layer of expanded clay is poured, it should have a height of more than 30 cm;
Installation of beacons for reinforced concrete screed;
Installation of the concrete layer;

A water heated floor system would be a good option. It is installed under a concrete screed. True, this system cannot be installed in every garage.

Insulation of metal gates

As often happens, owners insulate only the walls and ceiling in the garage, but completely forget about the gate. And they, in turn, are the main source of cold and dampness in the garage. So how to insulate the garage so that the car does not freeze in winter.

The easiest way is to decorate the inside of the gate with polystyrene foam

A sheathing is created from the profiles, in the zones of which insulation is laid;
Fixing foam plastic to the metal base of the gate. You need to use liquid nails.
The gaps between the foam plastic must be covered with polyurethane foam;
Spray with polyurethane foam;

Having installed one of the types of insulation, it is worth installing seals on the gate leaves. Even small gaps can make a big difference to the temperature in your garage.

Insulating the garage is guaranteed to increase the life of the car. If all the work is done correctly, you will be able to create optimal temperature at any time of the year.

Independent insulation of the garage from the inside makes it possible to provide optimal conditions for year-round car storage.

To make your car feel comfortable in the garage in winter, you need to create special conditions for it. During the cold season, the temperature in the motorhome should be around +5°. There is no need to heat the garage to higher levels, as there is a risk that the vehicle will become covered with “sweat” when frosty air comes in from the street, which can cause rusting of various parts of the car.

In addition, care should be taken to ensure that there is sufficient fresh air flow into the house for the machine. In one hour, the vehicle should be blown with approximately 180 cubic meters of air. These two requirements must be taken into account when deciding to do the insulation of a metal or any other motorhome yourself.

Currently, garage insulation can be done different materials, which are characterized by their own thermal conductivity indicators. This should also be taken into account. Below we present the values (in W/m*K) of thermal conductivity of popular materials that are used to perform insulation with your own hands:

0.038 – mineral wool and expanded polystyrene (foam);
0.043 – glass wool;
0.171 – expanded clay;
0.28 – foam concrete;
0.52 – ceramic brick;
0.64 – cinder block.

Garage insulation materials

Sand-lime brick is characterized by maximum thermal conductivity (0.9).

The lower the thermal conductivity of the material, the higher the thermal insulation characteristics it has. This means that it is more reasonable to insulate the garage from the inside with polystyrene foam rather than with bricks or cinder blocks.

Thermal inertia is also of considerable importance. This concept refers to the rate of increase in temperature on the surface of a particular insulation material. In simple words, we can say that the wall will heat up the longer, the higher the material’s thermal inertia index.

If you plan to insulate the building where your car is stored in winter with your own hands, experts advise following general rule. It says: the walls are protected from the inside from the cold so that the thermal inertia of the materials increases (from the outside in) and the thermal conductivity decreases. It is enough to follow this principle, and then your garage will become a reliable haven for vehicle.

Car enthusiasts usually carry out insulation with their own hands using mineral wool, polymer and fiberglass products. They are relatively easy to install, have good performance indicators and are affordable, which makes it possible to insulate a garage cheaply and with a guarantee of quality.

Mineral wool has been used for a very long time. It has proven its effectiveness in insulating motorhomes. But in Lately it is used less and less. There are several reasons:

Relatively high cost of material.
Increased sensitivity of mineral wool to the influence of moisture (it is mandatory to do waterproofing, and this, as you understand, increases the cost of insulating the garage).

Mineral wool

Glass wool is cheaper. But this material has even more “cons”. It is classified as a flammable product and is also susceptible to high humidity. Therefore, there are few people who want to use glass wool.

The most popular insulation material these days is considered to be polystyrene foam. It has almost no shortcomings. It does not allow moisture to pass through and is characterized by excellent thermal insulation properties, does not rot, and fungus never appears on its surface. In terms of price, foam plastic is more than “democratic”. And any car enthusiast can install it with his own hands from inside the motorhome.

The only downside of polystyrene foam is its flammability. But this problem has now faded into the background. Modern manufacturers produce polystyrene foam, which is treated with a fire retardant at the factory. This substance extinguishes the material immediately after it ignites.

Let's look at how to protect garage walls from the cold using polystyrene foam. This is easy to do:

We make the sheathing from wooden boards measuring 3x3 or 2x2 cm. They should be mounted along the perimeter of the wall, maintaining a pitch of at least 0.8 m.
We glue the foam plastic to the made sheathing (this will be the first layer of insulation on the walls).
We install another layer of heat insulation. Moreover, the second layer is fastened so that the joining seams of the layers do not coincide (that is, in a checkerboard pattern). It has been proven that this scheme provides maximum protection for the garage and car from cold air.

You have insulated the walls of the motorhome from the inside, spending a minimum of time and money. You can also decorate them inexpensive material- ordinary clapboard or plywood sheets.

Decorating garage walls with clapboard

Having protected the walls from cold air, we can move on to insulating the garage door. Welded structures are usually mounted on a metal or any other motorhome. Such gates are made of thin steel (maximum 3 mm), which cannot guarantee a decent level of insulation of the building.

It is not difficult to insulate the entrance to the garage with your own hands. The procedure is performed in approximately the same way as wall insulation - using polystyrene foam. It must be glued as efficiently and tightly as possible - an air gap must not be allowed to appear (use the same adhesive that you used when insulating the walls of the garage).

Now we need to make a frame from wood (we will later mount the garage sheathing on it). Such a skeleton is made from wooden blocks 6x6 cm. Be sure to use building level when performing this work. We will install thin boards on the frame and cover the gate with this structure. They can be painted with regular “water emulsion” or come up with another decoration option.

If you were able to insulate the gates and walls with your own hands, you should not have any difficulties with thermal insulation of the ceiling from the inside. It is important to know several nuances here.

The roof and ceiling in a garage are the same structure. If your motorhome is made of foam blocks or bricks, its roof is usually made of a floor slab (reinforced concrete). U metal garage the ceiling is made in the form of a “skeleton” from steel corners to which iron sheets are attached. But in frame houses for cars, the ceiling is made of wood beams.

Caravan ceiling on wooden beams

All these types of ceiling structures can be insulated using two methods:

Create a false ceiling and fill the space between it and the base roof with insulating material.
Attach the insulation directly to the ceiling using the method recommended for the specific insulating material.

If you want to use foam, glue it with liquid nails to the roof of a metal or wood garage, install the rails and cover a layer of insulation with any lightweight material. Plywood is best suited for these purposes. It is attached to the guides.

When you need to insulate a ceiling made of floor slabs with your own hands, the skeleton is mounted on metal corners. Adhesives won't help here. Please note - you will need to fix the corners with screws, which are previously placed in plastic dowels.

Most often, the floors in car storage boxes are made of concrete. They are thermally insulated before pouring concrete mixture. The order of work is as follows:

Compact the earthen surface.
Make a cushion of sand (about 10 cm thick is sufficient) and tamp it down.
Pour a 10 cm layer of concrete screed and dry it.
Pour fine river sand or expanded clay mixed with cement and water onto the screed. Expanded clay or sand just perform the function of insulating material.
Dry the completed heat-insulating layer for a week, and then pour the final concrete floor.

Thermal insulation of floors before pouring concrete mixture

We can only add that flooring made of concrete with insulation can be used a month after completing all the described procedures. That's when it will become truly strong.