How to insulate a frame garage. Do-it-yourself insulation of the garage from the inside - protecting your car. Insulation of a metal garage

It is advisable to maintain an optimal microclimate in the garage. If you can properly insulate a building, you will significantly reduce heating costs, while the conditions will be quite comfortable for work, technical inspection and car repairs. For example, in unstable weather with average temperature values, in spring and autumn, you will not need to worry about heating at all, and in the cold winter, energy consumption will be significantly less. Optimal solution - . This method is quite popular and trusted even by experienced car enthusiasts.

The secret of polystyrene foam is its cost-effectiveness and high efficiency as insulation. At the same time, you can also save on carrying out construction work, since garage owners will be able to handle the installation of such a layer of insulation on their own. Today we will learn in more detail how to insulate a garage with polystyrene foam, how best to work with the material, and how its varieties differ from each other.

Creation optimal conditions in a garage is of great importance. For example, if it is extremely cold and the surfaces are not insulated, the gate may become covered with a large layer of frost. To improve conditions, it is necessary to insulate walls and gates, and not close the ventilation. After all, it is thanks to the ventilation holes that excess moisture leaves the room, preventing the formation of condensation and metal corrosion.

Experts note that it is advisable to maintain a temperature in the garage of at least five degrees Celsius. At the same time, ventilation must also be ensured.

Why foam plastic? Material advantages

What is the reason for the high popularity of this material? Why do many forward-thinking car enthusiasts choose to insulate their garage with polystyrene foam? Let's consider the key advantages of the material.

Polystyrene foam is a fairly economical insulation material. In terms of price-quality ratio, it is superior to many other materials. For example, mineral wool he "overtook" by 50%.
It is quite convenient during the installation process. Even a person without builder skills will be able to cope with sheathing a garage with foam sheets.
In terms of its properties, the material in many ways not only resembles the popular mineral wool, but also surpasses it.
The water resistance of this type of insulation plays an important role, since it is in the garage that there is a high probability high humidity, but we must definitely fight this. After all, condensation is very dangerous for the machine and its metal parts. Just with polystyrene foam you can prevent corrosion.

Some people are confused by the fact that polystyrene foam is still a flammable material. And the garage almost always contains fuel and lubricants. But here the solution is very simple. Now they produce special brands of this insulation, which already contain fire retardants. Such additives provide attenuation and allow you to achieve the required level fire safety.

Types of foam

Let's try to find out more about the material and its types, their technical features, advantages and disadvantages, differences. When thinking about insulating a garage with polystyrene foam, it is important to choose the most suitable type of material. The characteristics of the varieties mainly depend on the category of polymer, because it is the basic component insulation material.

Expanded polystyrene

The most popular, widely in demand type of foam is expanded polystyrene. It is quite often used for thermal insulation of garages inside and outside. Expanded polystyrene can be extruded, non-pressed and pressed.

When it comes to insulating a garage space, which has special requirements for the level of fire safety, it is advisable to choose the PSB-S brand. This material does not support combustion, is resistant to elevated temperatures, and contains effective flame retardants. Besides, this material It is safe from an environmental point of view and does not release toxic substances into the environment.

Let us outline the key advantages of expanded polystyrene.

The material is resistant to the negative effects of chemicals and aggressive environments.
The insulation is not afraid of insects and fungus.
Affordable cost is of great importance.
It is easy to process polystyrene foam.
The level of thermal conductivity is minimal.
Has good sound insulation properties.
It has good resistance to humidity, steam, and practically does not allow water to pass through.

When polystyrene foam is produced conscientiously, it is virtually non-toxic.

Penoizol

More modern building materials include penoizol. Now he is better known as liquid foam. Its properties differ from the usual plates of thermal insulation material, since it is customary to manufacture it directly on the construction site. For this purpose, special foam generators are used. When the insulation mixture is whipped, it is filled with the prepared cavities. Then the material hardens. You can make briquettes in advance if you first pour the mixture into prepared forms.

Unfortunately, from an economic point of view, some difficulties may arise with such material, since it can hardly be called budgetary. You will have to competently mix the composition in compliance with the technology and use special equipment. And this will require additional investments.

However, the advantages of penoizol are significant.

Liquid foam guarantees high level thermal insulation. It is this material that has the maximum heat resistance among other types of foam.
The minimum service life of insulation is, according to conservative estimates, 40 years.
Complete environmental safety is of particular importance.
The material will ensure fire safety without additional investment, since it does not support combustion.
Penoizol has increased resistance to biological and chemical negative influences.
This insulation allows you to maintain a good microclimate in the room due to optimal moisture permeability.

Note! It is necessary to purchase penoizol from reliable, well-established suppliers in the construction market, since this effective material is often counterfeited, violating the technology in the process of underground production.

Polyurethane foam

This is material with the largest number por. It is famous for its unique adhesion. Typically, polyurethane foam is sprayed directly onto the walls.

Here are the important advantages of polyurethane foam.

The thermal insulation layer is continuous and seamless.
The space is used rationally, since this thermal insulation material takes up minimal space.
The service life is at least 70 years.
The material is non-toxic and attracts with its environmental cleanliness.
It retains its properties even with sudden temperature changes.
Has increased resistance to mechanical stress.

The main disadvantage is the need to use special equipment to apply the material.

External foam insulation

A good solution is to use polystyrene foam as external insulation. Then, in winter, cold bridges do not form and condensation is prevented. When is foam plastic used for internal insulation, it is extremely important to ensure good ventilation of the room.

Preparing the work surface

Do you have a brick garage? Then polystyrene foam will fit just perfectly. It will prevent weathering of the seams, extend the life of the walls, improve sound insulation and minimize heat loss. For garage spaces made from other building materials, foam is also perfect.

Before insulation, all working surfaces must be prepared. Walls, ceilings, gates must be cleaned of dust, dirt, and old plaster. The base under the insulation layer must be clean and durable. Then the foam will be able to be fixed well. All cracks and chips must be covered with a layer of plaster to achieve a smooth surface.

We install polystyrene foam

When insulating garage walls from the inside with polystyrene foam, it is important Special attention pay attention to the installation of the material. The thermal insulation properties, as well as the service life of the coating, will largely depend on this.

When walls made of concrete or brick are insulated, 25-density foam plastic with a thickness of 10 cm is usually used. Two layers of 5 cm can be applied. Longitudinal and transverse seams are tied.

Here is an approximate working algorithm. If necessary, it can be slightly changed and improved.

Pre-prime the surface to improve adhesion to the adhesive.
Apply glue in medium-sized “blobs”. You can use a notched trowel.
The sheets are pressed tightly enough.
Cover the wall from bottom to top.
Lay the insulation sheets in a checkerboard pattern.
Use strips secured with dowels to the surface.
The masonry elements are additionally secured with plastic dowels when adhesive composition completely frozen.

In general, installation is quite simple. The main thing is to be careful and do everything more carefully so that the insulation layer is continuous.

Garage roof insulation

It also needs to be insulated. Unfortunately, many car enthusiasts forget about this. They prefer to make a kind of box out of thermal insulation material, and leave the roof without attention. As a result, you need temperature regime can't be achieved anymore.

Here are some useful tips.

If you are insulating the ceiling in a garage using foam plastic, you should not drill holes for the bars. It's better to use glue.
When the roof consists of reinforced concrete slabs, it is advisable to take care of external and internal insulation.
If you apply foam plastic from the outside, you will have to additionally make a plaster screed. The optimal solution is to lay a waterproofing layer between the insulation and the plaster. You can use roofing felt or film.
Is the sheathing loose? Then fix the layers of insulation between the rafters. After this, you can use a waterproofing film.
Do you have a continuous sheathing or a good rafter system? In this case, waterproofing is laid on top, and the insulation is fixed under the sheathing.
Waterproofing film requires careful attention. Make sure that it does not come into direct contact with the insulating layer if it has reduced vapor permeability.

The best scheme for insulating a garage roof is: waterproofing - thermal insulation - vapor barrier.

We insulate garage doors

It is very important to properly insulate your garage door. Then there will be no problems with their freezing or the formation of cold bridges. It is also advisable to provide a small door at the gate. This will significantly improve energy efficiency, since it is impractical to send such a wide flow of cold air into the garage every time.

Remember the most important points.

First of all, prevent the flow of cold air through the cracks. All air gaps are eliminated. The joints can be removed using rubber seals and self-adhesive tape.
Ventilation is of great importance. Excess moisture must be eliminated so that condensation does not form, leading to metal corrosion. Good air circulation will eliminate all problems. Please note: the ventilation openings must have special protective nets that will become a reliable barrier for insects, rodents and birds.
If you insulate the gate with foam plastic, you should take additional care of aesthetics. For example, use in the role facing material lining, plastic panels.

A good garage will prevent temperature changes and eliminate the possibility of cold bridges forming. This is especially important in winter time when the air temperature is extremely low, and the gates are so frozen that it is even difficult to open them.

Video: learning how to insulate walls in a garage

Want to know more useful information about from the inside? Then this video will definitely be useful to you.

In this video, all useful information and tips are presented clearly, in the most accessible form.

Attempts to heat a garage without comprehensive insulation lead to one disappointing result - money spent on heating literally goes down the drain, and the garage does not get any warmer. In an unheated building, things are no better - the temperature inside is no different from the conditions “overboard”. But every engine start at -20°C leads to the same wear as a 600 km mileage. To create comfortable conditions in the garage even in winter, you will have to take care of reliable thermal insulation. This is the only way to cut off the cold outside and keep the heat inside.

Insulation options for garages built from different materials

To choose one or another technology for insulating a garage, you will have to weigh many pros and cons, “try on” various insulating materials to suit the features of the building and your own wallet. It will also be mandatory thermotechnical calculation, taking into account the climate in the region, the thickness and material of the enclosing structures. For example, walls made of aerated concrete blocks with a large number of air pores themselves have good resistance to heat loss. At the same time, metal frame buildings seriously lose in this regard.

There are three options for insulating a garage:

external;
internal;
combined - the most effective and expensive.

Insulation along the facade is vital for buildings that tend to accumulate moisture: wooden frames and garages made of porous concrete blocks. In a good way, metal boxes also need to be insulated from the outside, since their dew point is always at inner surface. But it is difficult to do such work on your own, so we will consider this option as an exception to the rule.

It would be correct to insulate the garage from the outside - this is the only way to move the dew point outside the enclosing structures and protect them from getting wet when condensation forms

It is also advisable to protect brick and concrete buildings from the outside, but installing thermal insulation from the inside is cheaper - the right of choice remains with the owner. Here we will have to additionally take into account the safety of the materials used for the human body. Of course, none of them are absolutely harmless - even natural wood is treated chemical impregnations- but you need to strive for this. The safest products are considered to be from well-known brands that monitor the maximum permissible concentrations of phenols, formaldehydes and styrene in their materials.

If you use an unheated garage during the winter, internal thermal insulation still needed. Otherwise, you get a simple carport with a gate that protects the car from precipitation, but not from cold. But you can refuse external insulation.

It is also worth considering the insulation of the garage roof, since a lot of heat is lost through it. It all depends on the design and availability of the attic space. Possible options for roofs of different configurations:

Flat or with a slight slope allows insulation to be laid on top. It is better to use rigid slabs of polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam (EPS), and waterproof the top using roll materials.
The pitched roof is insulated with the same polystyrene foam or mineral wool laid between the rafters. The latter option is preferable because it does not require particularly precise sizing and additional fasteners.
In a garage with a cold attic, you can line the floor with glass wool rolls - you will get reliable and budget-friendly thermal insulation. The main thing that roofing material protected it well from getting wet, and ventilation ensured the removal of accumulated moisture.

We also allow the option of insulating the ceiling in the garage. The same materials are used here as for wall insulation: mineral wool, rigid polymer boards. This solution allows you to create a continuous “warm” contour without gaps or cold bridges. But it is necessary that on the side of the room it is covered with a vapor barrier that cuts off moist air. Additional waterproofing on top is required.

Having decided on the insulation technology and the features of the garage enclosing structures, choosing the material is much easier. For example, for a metal box, spraying polyurethane foam or forming a “sandwich” using polystyrene foam is ideal. Walls made of aerated concrete with a thickness of 300 mm are enough to be finished on the outside with warm perlite plaster. But most buildings allow the use of simple and cheaper technologies. We offer a unique TOP of popular types of thermal insulation with calculation of their quantity and associated costs for drawing up estimates.

Polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam

These two related insulation materials differ from each other in both characteristics and price. But the technology for working with hard polymers remains unchanged, so we will consider them as one material. Polystyrene foam is sold in flat sheets of varying thicknesses, so just calculate the surface area and add 10% for waste to calculate the amount needed.

The most reliable way to insulate structures is with two layers of polystyrene foam. Laying thin slabs with overlapping joints provides protection from blowing.

Calculation example:

It is necessary to insulate 50 m2 of walls with foam plastic slabs 10 cm thick.
For two-layer installation you need 100 m2 of hard polymer, but already 5 cm thick.
Taking into account the reserve for trimming and waste, we accept 100 + 10% = 110 m 2.
The largest sheets of PSB-S foam plastic go standard size 1000x1000 mm - you will need 110 pieces.
Extruded polystyrene foam has a smaller area of 1200x600 mm (0.72 m2), that is, 153 pieces are already needed - that’s less than 20 packages of 8 sheets each.

For fastening you will need special glue and polyurethane foam to seal the seams. Dry adhesives are sold in bags weighing 25 kg and have an average consumption of about 4 kg/m2, that is, in our case you will need 400 kg or 16 packages of the mixture. Polyurethane-based adhesive foam is purchased at the rate of one container per 10 square meters - a total of 10 units plus mounting gun.

For reliable adhesion, the area of the adhesive mass after pressing the sheet should occupy 30–40% of the surface of the foam. In the case of adhesive foam, stripes with a width of at least 6–7 mm are applied for this purpose.

As for the consumption of polyurethane foam for sealing joints, it all depends on the density of the insulation panels, as well as the quality of the edges. In addition, this composition is ideal for correcting all flaws in the insulating layer, so more of it may be required. Minimum consumption for our example - 2 cylinders (about 60 liters of foam). But often the actual volume of the composition at the exit does not correspond to what is stated on the packaging, plus some of it ends up outside and must be removed, so this figure at least needs to be doubled.

This category includes both basalt slabs and cheaper fiberglass. The latter has a very limited scope of application, since the density of the material is low, and under load it quickly loses volume. The maximum that glass wool can do is insulate horizontal and flat surfaces from the inside.

Basalt wool is available in a wider range, so it can be used on almost all surfaces if you choose the right material:

Internal insulation attic floor(for example, in a garage with attic floor) allows the use of lightweight, inexpensive rolls with a density of 30 kg/m 3.
The inside walls are sheathed with mats weighing 45–60 kg/m3.
For systems curtain facades slabs with a density of about 70 kg/m 3 are suitable.
External insulation under plaster is performed with two-layer sheets with a more rigid weave of the upper fibers with a density of 90 kg/m 3.
Flat roofs under fused insulation or thin screed require the use of expensive slabs from 110 kg/m 3 and above.

Mineral wool insulation is not the cheapest option for a garage. But if the building is adjacent to a residential building, for fire safety purposes it is better to use it

As in the case of polystyrene foam, it is recommended to lay the wool in two layers, so that the insulation area when calculating the materials is multiplied by 2. In addition, you will need a waterproofing film 200 microns thick and a vapor barrier. Their sizes will be larger, since all seams must be made with an overlap of 10–15 cm.

Insulation with mineral wool usually does not require the use of any fastening elements - it is simply inserted into wooden frame from timber. You'll need a lot of it. The length of the lumber is determined by the dimensions of the protected surface, that is, the height of the walls or the length of the slopes of the sloping roof. The number of bars depends on the installation pitch - it should be 1–2 cm less than the width of the mineral insulation. The “wet” method of insulating the outer walls of a garage does not involve the installation of sheathing - basalt slabs are glued with a special compound applied to their surface. The average consumption of the finished mixture is 9–10 kg/m2.

When gluing facades with mineral wool, additional fixation of the slabs is performed with dowel mushrooms - 5 pieces for each sheet

Mineral thermal insulation in the case of a garage is not suitable only for the floor, although in residential buildings this option is quite acceptable. But in a box it is impossible to provide it with sufficient protection from moisture, as a result of which the insulation quickly loses its properties and becomes unusable.

“Highly specialized” insulation materials

Foam and mineral wool choice insulating materials in our market is not limited. However, the use of other insulation materials is not so widespread, as they have their drawbacks. However, they should also be given attention, since in some cases the use alternative types thermal insulation may be justified.

Expanded clay is an inexpensive bulk material that is suitable for backfilling between walls in two-layer masonry, as well as for installing “warm” floor screed. It has high water absorption and average thermal conductivity of about 0.1–0.18 W/m∙°C.
Foam glass blocks are a good heat insulator that is resistant to many external influences, but they are very expensive. In addition, glass foam blocks are not friendly with alkaline cement-based solutions (glues, plasters).
Fibrolite and wood concrete are to a greater extent Construction Materials, which certainly have good thermal insulation characteristics (0.08–0.11 W/m∙°C). It is better to foresee the use of cement-bonded particle blocks and slabs at the construction stage, and then select insulation materials for them.

Required Tools

Each stage of garage insulation work requires its own set of tools. The list also depends on the selected material, but mainly the changes will affect cutting devices. For example, mineral wool can be cut well with a construction knife, but polystyrene foam is easier to handle with a homemade “hacksaw” made of steel wire on wooden handles. You can, of course, use a jigsaw, but in this case the sheets will crumble a lot, so you will have to work slowly. The rest of the set of tools is standard.

To prepare surfaces:

a hard synthetic brush (in some cases - a hand brush or a cord brush for an angle grinder);
grinder - to remove protruding reinforcement and large protrusions of the main surface;
narrow spatulas for sealing cracks.

To attach the insulation:

drill/screwdriver;
construction stapler;
notched trowel or mounting gun for adhesives.

In the case when the insulation layer is laid in the sheathing, do not forget to select a tool for making the frame: a jigsaw for a wooden beam, a hacksaw, an angle grinder or scissors for a metal profile.

Instructions for insulating the floor yourself in an unheated garage

Most cheap way insulate the floor in the garage - make an expanded clay pillow and fill it with concrete. True, in this case the finished base will have to be completely disassembled, and the whole process will be labor-intensive.

Work order:

Dig a pit up to half a meter deep in the ground and line it with roofing felt, extending onto the walls. Seal the waterproofing seams with bitumen mastic or simply seal them.
Fill the hole with expanded clay to a height of 30 cm and cover it with reinforcing mesh.
Prepare concrete mortar and pour the screed to the required thickness. Try to make the base sloping towards the gate to drain water.

Do not forget that when installing a concrete floor, expansion joints must be left around the perimeter. Use a special damper tape made of foamed PET for this.

Insulation under cement pouring can also be done using polystyrene foam. There is no need to fasten it - just lay the sheets tightly on a leveled surface covered with film and foam the seams. Waterproof the top again, lay reinforcement and pour concrete mortar.

Under cement screed you need sheets with a density of at least 25 kg/m 3

Thermal insulation of the floor in a garage with a cellar

When it comes to a garage with a cellar underneath, floor insulation has to be done especially carefully. Here a lot depends on the design of the ceiling. Ideally, if it is wooden - the fight against excess humidity in the basement does not give a 100% result, and solid wood, unlike concrete, not only accumulates moisture, but also readily releases it.

The scheme of a thermally insulated floor will look like this:

Waterproof insulation laid between the joists - the lightest foam plastic will do, since there will be no load on it.
A diffusion membrane with one-way permeability so that the wooden beam can “breathe” through it. In this case, 10–15 cm of the lag at the ends remain free.
An extension sheathing 5 cm high provides a ventilated gap above the insulation layer.
Subfloor made from edged boards.

For a garage with a basement - the best option

This solution will cut off the cold coming from the basement, and allow excess moist air into the garage. Here the ventilation ducts come into operation, preventing moisture from accumulating and destroying the wooden structures and the car itself. However, all lumber should also be protected from rotting - for this they are treated with antiseptic impregnations and given time to dry.

To provide better protection the base of the garage from the cold, you can create a “warm” blind area around the entire perimeter from the outside. It will shift the freezing line of the soil, and the temperature under the building will remain above zero even in winter.

Insulating walls with foam plastic from the outside: instructions and photo gallery

Traditionally, before starting work, we prepare surfaces for insulation: we remove peeling pieces, repair chips and potholes, and clean the walls of dirt. Brickwork or concrete with their absorbent properties must be additionally treated with a penetrating primer. After this, insulation is performed in the following order:

Attach a metal corner to the bottom of the walls - it will serve as a support for the rows of foam plastic.
Prepare the adhesive mixture according to the instructions given on the package.
Apply the composition to each sheet using one of the methods shown in the photo.
This method is only suitable for polymer adhesives in cylinders. The adhesive is applied with a notched trowel in a layer of 3–4 mm
“Blots” of glue should be evenly distributed on the sheet

Do-it-yourself insulation of the garage from the inside will help extend the life of your car. The need for such work arises due to sudden temperature fluctuations, which lead to the appearance of condensation. Accumulated moisture settles on the car, leading to damage to the anti-corrosion coating. To prevent such situations, it is necessary to insulate the garage or install a heating system.

Why insulate walls

The enclosing structures of buildings for cars are made of large-block materials, for example, cinder block or gas block, less often of brick. Depending on the method of laying the products, the thickness of such walls will range from 12 to 30 centimeters. This width is not enough to protect the room from the penetration of cold air. Even when installing a heating system, the difference between the air temperature outside and inside the building will lead to condensation.

There is no need to artificially increase the temperature in the garage to high levels. After a car hits a cold street warm room Condensation will certainly appear on its surface, which will lead to corrosion of the metal. Thermal insulation of the garage should be selected and installed in such a way that the difference in temperature in the room and outside the window is minimal. Optimal performance for a car it is considered +5 degrees.

Note! When insulating building envelopes, motorists seal all cracks, including ventilation holes. Score exhaust pipes prohibited, they are used to remove accumulated moisture and help remove carbon monoxide from the room.

Types of thermal insulation materials for garage walls

In the modern construction market there is a huge selection of insulation materials. Let's consider the characteristics of the most popular thermal insulation materials:

Mineral wool is supplied to stores in the form of rigid mats with a density of up to 240 kg/m3. Such products are characterized by high resistance to fire and allow water vapor to pass through their structure (breathe). The only disadvantage of using basalt wool is the need to install a vapor barrier film, which will protect the product from getting wet. When exposed to moisture, the insulation loses its properties.
Glass wool is considered a cheaper analogue of mineral wool. Such products consist of hard and prickly fibers, so you need to wear glasses and gloves when working with insulation. After getting wet, the mats clump and become heavy, so glass wool needs to be protected from moisture penetration by laying special films or foil.
Foam plastic is considered the most convenient to use thermal insulation material. The products are not afraid of dampness, can be easily cut into pieces with a regular hacksaw, and are affordable. Insulation of a garage can be done using an analogue of polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, which will last up to 40 years. The main disadvantages of the products in question are considered to be flammability and low resistance to sun rays. Foam plastic unprotected by plaster turns yellow and crumbles.
Another insulation for the garage, warm plaster consists of vermiculite or foam balls. Such materials have good heat-insulating qualities, but to obtain maximum effect a thick layer of mortar must be applied to the walls.

Insulation of walls from the inside

The choice of insulation, as well as the technology for insulating enclosing structures, will depend on the material from which the enclosing structures are made. Many car enthusiasts are interested in the question of how to insulate a brick garage. First you need to clean the surface from dust and dirt, mount a frame into which the thermal insulation will be installed.

The sheathing is made from a plasterboard profile. The guides are fixed to the wall with dowels, which are driven in every 30 centimeters. The distance between the guides must correspond to the width of the insulation boards. For finishing For walls, you can use sheets of plasterboard or asbestos fiber. It is better to use the latest products, because they have a high degree of fire resistance compared to similar materials.

Advice! Asbestos fiber is quite fragile; to prevent its destruction as a result of various mechanical influences, reduce the pitch between the frame guides.

Insulation of garage walls from the inside is carried out using mineral wool or other products made in the form of slabs. In this case, the mats are inserted between the guides, their position is fixed using special hooks. After this, they begin to install the vapor barrier membrane, which should be connected to the cotton wool insulation.

We insulate the garage from the outside using warm plaster or special paint. Carrying out such work shifts the dew point, which will protect the walls from moisture penetration and further freezing. The owner of the building must carry out the installation forced ventilation. This system is designed for intensive air exchange.

Insulating a garage with foam plastic is suitable for insulating metal walls. Expanded polystyrene boards are fixed to the base surface using an adhesive mixture. To securely fix the thermal insulation, it is necessary to first clean and degrease the metal. The sheets are fixed to the walls with the seams aligned, and polyurethane foam is poured into the gaps. Polystyrene foam is subject to combustion, so a thin layer of plaster must be applied to its surface.

Metal garage walls are often insulated with polyurethane foam or special paint. If there are voids between the frame, insulation is carried out using penoizol. The liquid mass penetrates into the wall through special holes. The foam clings well to surrounding surfaces, hardens, turning into high-quality and reliable thermal insulation.

How to insulate garage doors

Not everyone knows how to properly insulate a garage from the inside. Effective and reliable thermal insulation of walls will not be enough, because a significant amount of heat escapes through the gate. The lack of insulation in this design will not allow the garage to warm up to the required temperature levels. At the initial stage of work, a hole is made in one of the doors and the doors are inserted. To reduce heat loss, a curtain made of thick fabric is fixed in this place.

A transparent polyethylene film with a minimum thickness of 0.8 millimeters will help to insulate the entire plane of the gate. This material is cut into strips 20-30 centimeters wide and fixed above the opening, so that the lower edge does not reach the floor surface by 1-2 centimeters. The strips are fixed to wooden beam using a stapler. This insulation is very effective - when entering the garage, the driver will see the surrounding space. In addition, narrow strips of polyethylene will smoothly flow around the car and return to their original position.

Some car enthusiasts insulate the inside of their garage doors with polystyrene foam. To do this, a sheathing of wooden blocks is installed on the inside of the structure and the voids are filled with polystyrene foam slabs. To prevent cold air from penetrating through the gaps, the joints of the thermal insulation are taped with tape.

To eliminate drafts entering through the gates, it is necessary to replace the rubber seals. Condensation forms where the thermal insulation comes into contact with the metal surface. To prevent destruction, the steel is treated with paint or other anti-corrosion compound. Waterproofing substances are also applied to other surfaces.

The wooden guide elements of the frame are coated with a primer or heated drying oil, which will protect the material from rotting and exposure to fungus. After laying the foam, the surface is cleaned. Garage doors are finished with OSB boards or thin boards. It is not advisable to use moisture-resistant products for this, for example, gypsum board.

How to insulate a garage roof

If the building for a car is separate from a residential building or auxiliary buildings, in addition to the walls, the roof will also have to be insulated. This is due to the fact that warm air much lighter than cold weather, it will rise up and melt the snow, which will lead to a sharp temperature change and the formation of condensation. We learned how to properly insulate a garage with inside, but the process of insulating walls is slightly different from insulating the roof.

If there is a plank ceiling, foam boards are used as insulation. Similar products fastened to the base using plastic dowels, umbrellas or ordinary nails. After this, the thermal insulation is covered with sheet materials, such as plywood. Such products are fixed with long screws.

If the garage walls are covered concrete slab, it is necessary to mount a wooden or metal carcass from aluminum profile. The guides are attached to the base surface with self-tapping screws, which are screwed into plastic dowels. After installing the frame, foam boards are laid. The joints of the material are sealed with tape, then the heat-insulating cake is pressed with the sheathing.

Important! Foam plastic is considered the best material for roof insulation. If mineral wool is used, additional installation will be required. polyethylene film and vapor barriers.

Floor insulation

If the garage has a cellar for storing canned goods, vegetables and fruits, there is no need for floor insulation. In the absence of such an underground room, insulation is mandatory. The easiest way to insulate the floor is with foam boards. The whole workflow boils down to the following:

vacuum the base and remove dirt;
lay roofing material or plastic film on the base;
we fix sheets of polystyrene foam of maximum density (the thickness of the cake is at least 10 centimeters);
we lay waterproofing material and reinforcing mesh;
We install the beacons and fill in the leveling screed.

You can debate for a long time whether it is necessary to insulate a garage if it is not heated. Putting discussions aside, in this article we will tell adherents of the feasibility of this event how and with what materials a technical room is insulated from the inside.

External or internal thermal insulation – which is better?

When insulation of walls is meant, it is equally possible to install insulation both from the inside and from the outside. But, considering the creation of a thermal insulation barrier for a technical room, which is a garage, we will bring cost minimization to the fore. External insulation of wall structures will always be more expensive, since the heat-insulating material requires mandatory protection with cladding or layer-by-layer decorative plastering. From the inside of the garage, the insulation layer can be covered with minimal finishing, or left as is - the garage interior does not imply great aesthetic claims.

If the garage is attached to the house and has adjacent walls with the main building, it is logical to make the facade in a single external embodiment. In this case, you will have to insulate the garage simultaneously with the thermal insulation of the main building, so the question “from the inside or the outside” disappears by itself. It remains to solve the problem of ceiling insulation. If the roof is pitched, the floors can definitely only be insulated from the inside. When the roof involves the formation of an attic space, a layer of insulation can be laid on the ceilings from the outside - this will be easier and cheaper.

If the garage is a separate building, you want to insulate it, but with minimal costs, the walls and ceiling are insulated from the inside. The walls - because they are much simpler, the ceiling - pitched roof and there is no other way. Using the example of such a garage building, we will consider methods of insulating structures in contact with the external environment.

Modern materials for thermal insulation measures

Before you start practical actions, you should choose the optimal insulation, having decided on how to insulate the garage ceiling and walls. What do we have in the trading network that would be suitable for our purposes?

Polystyrene foam is the most affordable and therefore most popular insulation material, especially for creating an external thermal insulation barrier. It is not recommended to use this material inside residential premises, as it is flammable and at the same time extremely toxic. But it is quite suitable for a technical room if you do it correctly and limit the contact of the heat-insulating material with the electrical wiring as much as possible. A limitation for using polystyrene foam from inside the garage will be the use of various stoves (potbelly stoves) or electric heaters with an open spiral.

More reliable in terms of fire safety a modified analogue of polystyrene foam - extruded polystyrene (penoplex). The material does not support combustion, although it can melt at high temperatures, releasing toxins into the air. From the point of view of thermal conductivity, penoplex is similar to polystyrene foam, but at the same time it is much stronger, absolutely hydrophobic and more convenient to use. The disadvantage is that it is approximately twice as expensive as polystyrene foam with a density of 25 kg/m3. If funds allow, it is more advisable to choose polystyrene - it does not crumble, is durable and garage conditions(humidity, temperature changes, possible mechanical damage) will endure much better than polystyrene foam.

There is only one option left that is acceptable for insulating a garage - mineral wool intended for facade “wet” thermal insulation (for decorative plastering). You will need hard mats with a density of at least 220 kg/m3, sold in bales of several pieces. Rolled low-density mineral wool is not quite suitable for garage conditions (for walls), although it can be used to insulate the garage ceiling, provided that it is subsequently covered with lathing. Mineral wool does not burn, but when insulating walls, it is much more difficult to work with than polymer insulation and requires mandatory plastering (high-density mats) and vapor barrier (loose rolled material).

These insulation materials can be combined. Let's say the bottom row, where there is more humidity and opportunity mechanical damage, make it with rigid, moisture-resistant polystyrene, covering the remaining area with more materially accessible foam plastic. This move will not affect the thermal insulation in any way - the heat transfer resistance of these polymers is approximately the same.

Another option for combining materials. Insulate the main area with polystyrene foam, in the same place as the wiring (electrical panel, sockets, switches) and, for example, the pipe outlet from the “potbelly stove”, use non-flammable mineral wool. The latter is a little worse as a heat insulator (with the same thickness), but safety is higher, especially since about 10% of areas with higher thermal conductivity will not critically affect the overall insulation.

Protecting walls from external temperatures is a simple task for a craftsman

Let us consider the nuances of the process of thermal insulation of the inner surface of walls, based on the use of the most probable material– foam plastic. To insulate a garage from the inside with this polymer, you first need to select a fastener. This can be polymer cement glue or polyurethane foam in cylinders. The adhesive mixture is suitable only for permanent walls (brick, cinder block, foam concrete). Foam is more universal - it adheres perfectly to any surface, including metal. If the garage is made of metal, the solution is simple - installing insulation using foam.

But there are two types of foam - a regular sealant, used to fill gaps when installing doors and windows, and a special composition intended for the installation of polymer thermal insulation boards. Preference should be given to the second option - such a polyurethane composition is more rigid (durable) and practically does not expand (there will be no displacement of foam sheets under the pressure of an increasing volume of polymerizing foam).

Regardless of the fastening material chosen for installing polystyrene foam, the process of installing insulating boards is generally similar. There is a slight difference in surface preparation. If polymer cement glue is used, the wall is primed. To use foam, it is not necessary to prime - just moisten the surface generously with plain water (this rule is also relevant for a metal structure). For high-quality polymerization of any polyurethane compositions, the presence of water is necessary. The abundance of moisture will ensure strong adhesion of the foam to surfaces and a more rigid consistency of the hardened polyurethane.

Polymer thermal insulation boards include such sequential actions.

1. Installation of foam plastic begins from the bottom row in one of the corners. First, glue or foam is applied to the insulation board (along the perimeter and in the center), after which the sheet is glued to the wall under control of direction (rule) and verticality (spirit level). The installation of the first element must be treated especially responsibly, “probing” the general direction so that the insulation array does not move far from the wall during further installation or rest against base surface. To make work easier, you can tighten the guide thread.
2. The next plate is installed side by side in the same way, and so on until the opposite corner, where the last sheet will have to be cut to size (we use a construction knife or a regular hacksaw).
3. It is better to install the insulation in a circle, that is, install the first row around the perimeter, then proceed to install the second. During the installation of the first row, foam or glue fixing the first installed elements, fully or partially set. The second and third rows (there are unlikely to be more) are mounted so that the vertical seams do not coincide; if necessary, the slabs are cut to the required dimensions.
4. The remaining unclosed gaps between the sheets (their formation during the installation process is a normal process) are filled with polyurethane foam or pieces of polystyrene foam (they will be in excess). There is no need to tighten the slabs with dowels - this additional type of fastener is used only when insulating facades.

What to do with finishing the surface of the insulation depends on the aesthetic preferences of the owner and the budget allocated for the event. There are many options - from ordinary plaster before applying façade technology, tiling or plastic panels.

Insulated ceiling - the solution to half the problem

A garage ceiling, especially with a single-pitched ceiling, is a huge thermal gap, without insulation of which the thermal insulation of the walls does not make much sense. Insulating the ceiling in a garage from the inside is done using the same materials as for the walls; there are two options, the choice of which depends on the floor material. If the garage is closed reinforced concrete slabs, the same technology is used as on the walls (gluing insulation).

When overlapping wooden structure it is better to make additional sheathing, lay thermal insulation and sheathe it with suitable material (lining, decorative panels). How a budget option, you can attach foam plastic or penoplex to the floor boards with umbrellas (the cap is cut off from the dowel and used in conjunction with wood screws), if insulation and economy come first, and aesthetics are a distant second.

If the garage ceiling is insulated with polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene over a concrete floor, the process is generally similar to that described above for thermal insulation of walls. The difference is in the preference for polymer-cement glue for this work, which makes it possible to immediately securely fix the polymer slabs and place them in space in the desired position. Foam is less convenient when working on the ceiling. IN The second feature is that on the ceiling it is desirable to use additional fasteners in the form of umbrella-shaped dowels, especially if plastering or other finishing measures are planned for the installed insulation (additional weight).

If you decide to create a sheathing and make it not only warm, but also beautiful ceiling, when choosing a material for thermal insulation, mineral wool in rolls is a priority. Yes, you will have to protect it from the roof with a moisture-proofing film, and from the inside with a vapor barrier film. But low-density mineral wool is not only a good heat insulator, but also perfectly damps sound vibrations, which is very important for a roof (raindrops, especially hail, falling on the roof, in the absence of sound insulation, create very loud noise).

How to deal with garage doors - a simple method, great results

All that remains is to protect the gates (meaning swing metal ones) from external temperature influences, which have a large area and therefore represent a significant gap in the insulated garage building. Here the surface can only be insulated from the inside, and the choice of insulation materials is slightly smaller. None of the varieties of mineral wool are suitable for these purposes, since the thermal insulation material can only be glued to the surface of the metal. In this situation, polystyrene foam (the lightest and moderately flexible) is best suited.

There are two options for gluing polymer insulation: fastening materials: the previously mentioned mounting foam and special glue (liquid nails). The foam in this case is less reliable, since it is rigid (when frozen) and tolerates vibration less well. Liquid nails based on plastic polymers are much more reliable, so they are preferable for gluing foam plastic to garage doors. The resulting gaps between the plates and the metal corner are also filled with glue.

Maintaining the right temperature in the garage is the key to long service life for your car and other tools. In order to retain heat in such rooms for as long as possible, it is necessary to properly insulate them, both outside and inside. Fortunately, today insulating a garage from the inside with your own hands has become a fairly simple matter. Almost every car enthusiast can do this.

In our country, most garages are a metal structure, which is very difficult to warm up. No matter how actively such a room is heated, its heat loss will be maximum. For such structures, it is necessary to carry out insulation work first.

If we consider a concrete or brick garage, then in such cases it will be much easier to insulate the garage with your own hands, and the result will be many times higher.

To the inexperienced layman it may seem that the main purpose of conducting thermal insulation works garage premises is to increase the temperature to room temperature (on average +20). But such an opinion can confidently be called erroneous. The temperature considered comfortable for humans is not suitable for equipment and cars. Sudden thermal changes, when a car drives from cold to warm, cause condensation to form. The resulting moisture settles on the car’s parts, which is critical for it. Therefore, experts concluded that the result of insulating the garage should be a temperature of +5 degrees. This indicator is considered as close as possible to the ideal storage conditions for the car.

Another misconception of car owners is that before insulating the garage from the inside, they seal all the holes and cracks in it into which air from the outside could penetrate. At first glance, this decision may seem correct, but this is only at first glance. In fact, quite a lot of harmful substances which are considered hazardous to human health. The materials themselves used for thermal insulation of the garage can release the same substances. In addition, all moisture entering the room can only disappear through weathering. This state of affairs suggests that before insulating the garage with your own hands, it is necessary to build a decent ventilation system in it.

If we consider the question: “How to properly insulate a garage - from the outside or from the inside?”, then the correct answer would be “Outside!” The fact is that insulating a garage from the outside has a number of advantages over internal insulation:

It does not steal extra centimeters of usable space;
It completely eliminates the risk of room freezing;
It is not fraught with the influence of harmful substances released by insulation in a closed space.

All these arguments speak in favor of external insulation of garage premises, but we should not forget about financial side This question - insulating the walls of the garage from the inside will cost a little less. However, in this situation, excessive savings will be unnecessary, since we are talking about human health. As mentioned above, before insulating the garage from the inside, it is necessary to provide ventilation. The second important issue is materials - you shouldn’t skimp on them either.

Many people ask the question: “How to insulate the walls in a garage inexpensively?” The answer is simple: “You can insulate a garage cheaply, but is it worth it?” The fact is that good thermal insulation material will cost more. In addition, when choosing insulation for a garage, you must pay attention to its characteristics, which must meet specific requirements. After all, all garage spaces are different and each of them may require its own type of thermal insulation.

Here is a list of the main materials used in our country for garage insulation:

This type of thermal insulation has been used effectively for a very long time. Mineral wool allows you to protect the room from the cold, while allowing it to breathe. For garage walls, it is best to use basalt wool, which has the best sound and heat insulation characteristics. The big disadvantage of this insulating material is the fear of moisture. Therefore, when using it, it is necessary to ensure good vapor barrier.

You can also insulate garage walls using this material. Its advantage is its low cost. But glass wool also has a number of disadvantages. These include: the need for maximum protection of the entire body (especially hands and face) during work, fear of moisture (wet material is not suitable for use) and mandatory insulation.

Today this material is considered the most popular for insulating houses and garages. The advantages of polystyrene foam include its relative cheapness, ease of use, and resistance to moisture and rotting. But it also has its drawbacks - poor breathability, flammability and fear of sunlight. That is why it is better to insulate the walls inside the garage with polystyrene foam, but for this you only need to use special self-extinguishing polystyrene foam.

This type of insulation is a roll of foil, on one side of which foamed polyurethane foam is applied. A huge advantage of reflective insulation is its thickness, which allows you to save space indoors. However, you shouldn’t place high hopes on this type of insulation - the principle of its operation is based on the reflection of heat in its mirror surface, and with induction and convection in a garage, this principle is not effective.

This type of insulation is plaster with various admixtures (expanded polystyrene grains, vermiculite and sawdust) that give it a thermal insulation effect. However, it is worth noting that it is advisable to use this type of insulation only in addition to other heat insulators, since its independent use is impractical. To get the desired effect, you need to apply a very thick layer of insulating plaster.

This type of thermal insulation is also based on the addition of additional substances to the paint composition, which allow retaining heat inside the room. Thermal insulation paint can be used for wood, metal and plastic surfaces. Therefore, this type of insulation is ideal for wooden garage, as it will allow the tree to breathe.

Floor insulation

If the garage has a cellar or basement, then in this situation, floor insulation will be unnecessary. If there are no such premises, then any insulation will need to start with flooring. Let's look at the three most popular methods of floor insulation.

Floor insulation with expanded clay

Filming upper layer earth to a depth of 45cm.
We lay out any waterproofing material (for example, roofing felt) along the bottom of the resulting hole so that it extends another 10 cm onto the walls.
Using cement or gypsum mortar, we install beacons, which will serve as a level.
We fill the roofing material with expanded clay in a layer of 25-30 cm.
We remove the beacons and fill their places with expanded clay.
We lay a 10x10cm reinforcing mesh on the expanded clay.
We attach new beacons.
Fill the floor with concrete screed.
Let the solution dry and set (do not put pressure on the floor for at least a month).

Floor insulation with polystyrene foam under screed

This type of thermal insulation will allow you not to remove the top layer of soil, but at the same time it will “steal” about 20 cm of height from the room.

Thoroughly clean the floor of debris and dust (preferably using a vacuum cleaner).
We cover the floor surface with any waterproofing material(roofing felt or dense polyethylene).
We lay foam plastic with a thickness of at least 10 cm and a density of C-25 on the waterproofing. Expanded polystyrene boards should fit together as tightly as possible.
We cover the foam with another layer of waterproofing.
We place a reinforcing mesh on it.
Let's do concrete screed floor.

Floor insulation with polystyrene foam under a wooden covering

This method of insulation allows you to take away only 10cm of the room’s height. To use it, you can use polystyrene foam of any density, but the boards should have a thickness of 5 cm. You also need to stock up on 5x5cm timber.

Thoroughly clean the floor surface from debris and dust.
We construct logs from timber, and tightly lay polystyrene foam between them. The logs should be located close to the wall.
We lay waterproofing material on top of the polystyrene foam.
We cover the floor with a board.

Important! A tongue and groove board is not suitable for such purposes - it requires very rigid fastening.

Wall insulation

There are several ways to insulate garage walls - the choice will depend on the material from which the building is constructed. Insulation of a brick or concrete garage can be done using mineral or glass wool, foam plastic, for metal structures polystyrene foam in slabs, polyurethane foam or heat insulating paint. Please note that you will probably have to install .

Insulation of walls with foam plastic under plaster

We clean the wall surface from old coatings.
Use putty to level the walls.
We prime them.
We nail a wooden plank to the wall, which will serve as a level.
Apply special glue to the polystyrene foam (10cm) either spotwise or over the entire surface.
We press the polystyrene foam sheet against the wall and additionally secure it with several dowels.
Cover the fixed foam with a thick layer (25-30mm) of glue.
We embed the reinforcing mesh in the glue.
We plaster the entire surface of the wall.

Insulation of walls with foam plastic under plasterboard, lining

We create a sheathing on the wall from timber or profiles with a step equal to the size of the foam sheet.
We fix the sheathing to the wall and ceiling.
We place sheets of foam plastic into the resulting windows and fix them with liquid nails.
We seal all cracks with foam.
We cover the outside of the sheathing with plasterboard or clapboard.

Wall insulation with mineral wool

This technology is very similar to the previous one - we insulate the walls using lathing. The only difference is that the mineral wool on both sides must be carefully covered with waterproofing material.

Before insulating the walls, it is advisable to also insulate the garage doors. First, you need to cut out a gate in the gate - such a manipulation will help reduce heat loss without the need for the car to leave. Then you can insulate the gate using the scheme used for insulating the walls:

We cover the gate from the inside with a layer of polyethylene;
We nail a wooden frame to them (it is advisable to treat the frame with drying oil or any other antiseptic);
We fill the frame with thermal insulation material;
We sew up the foam with clapboard or plywood (something light).

To enhance the thermal insulation effect inside the garage, just behind the gate, you can hang a plastic tape curtain.

The last step on the path to complete thermal insulation of the garage is the process of insulating its roof.

If the garage roof is made of wooden planks, then you can attach the insulation directly to it using nails or umbrella dowels.

If the ceiling is made of concrete floors, then it is advisable to use the wooden frame already mentioned above. It is advisable to attach the frame to the roof with metal corners or self-tapping screws, and the foam plastic to it with tape or glue. The finished structure must be covered with any type of material - drywall, lining, plywood.

As you can see from the article, insulating a garage is not that difficult. The main thing is that the master has patience, a small supply of funds and the necessary tools.