Do-it-yourself house made of round timber. Mini-house - a compact log house from a FORUMHOUSE participant. Log building technology

Any new life begins with the construction of your home. So it was laid down by our ancestors in the minds.
Unfortunately, now these instincts have been replaced by other priorities, more modern and adapted to the modern way of existence.
Someone dreams of their apartment in a mortgage, someone who is richer builds houses with the help of the hands of professionals. But deep down, on an instinctive level, any man wants to build at least a dacha on his own, with his own hands.

Are you a real man who is not afraid of physical labor? Then the house you build will be charged with positive energy, love and warmth. The ancestors believed that a house built on their own could always protect the family from all adversity, both external and internal.

Wooden houses have a special energy and have a special aesthetic appearance. With the right choice of material and compliance with special technologies log houses can last for many decades. Wood is a versatile material and is used in construction in almost every corner of the world. And most importantly - it is an environmentally friendly and breathable, "live" material.

Where to begin?

So, you have to start with right choice material. This means that when choosing logs for wall felling, it is necessary to take into account the climatic zone in which we live. Logs in thickness should be selected so that during frost in winter the walls do not freeze through. Below is a useful table that shows the freezing temperature of a log of one or another diameter, as well as, for comparison, the thickness of a brick wall similar in terms of freezing degree - compare for yourself.

Before we start putting up a wooden frame, the logs need to be prepared. To do this, we must debark the logs, dry them and treat them with a special antiseptic. For high-quality impregnation of wood, an antiseptic is applied in several layers.

When working with an antiseptic, precautions must be taken.

Log house device

Logs stacked horizontally on top of each other are called crowns. The very first crown is laid out of logs larger diameter than the subsequent ones.
We make waterproofing, lay the lower crown with roofing material.
When assembling the crowns, it must be taken into account that the logs lie in discord with butts, in grooves with a width of 10-12 centimeters. We also cut grooves for internal walls measuring 9-10 centimeters. The logs are upset with a wooden mallet.
If necessary, the logs are spliced ​​along the length with the help of special locks.
Between themselves, the logs are fixed with wooden dowels. Scattered in height, in increments of 1.5 meters. Holes for dowels are made with a margin.
The corners are fastened with one of the types of cuts. Internal walls are fixed in dovetail". After installing the log house, the horizontal gaps between the logs are caulked with linen or jute tow.
It must be remembered that during the first two years it gives a draft of 3-4%. Therefore, after this time, the seams must be re-caulked.
These are the main points to pay attention to.

Building a bath from a log house is not an easy task, but the construction technology, the choice of materials, and even the exact sequence of actions have long been known and worked out by many craftsmen.

This material explains all the key points that will help in the construction of a log bath: from laying the foundation to interior decoration.

The steam bath has been known since the time of the Scythians, who carried with them special bath tents and camping stoves. And in the 21st century, the Russian bath did not become a kind of archaism, having successfully withstood centuries of competition with baths and showers. Get rid of many ailments, remove from the body harmful substances accumulated in city everyday life, to give the body a good rest - all this is achieved when visiting a bath for more than one and a half thousand years.

Which design is preferable, how to choose a place to place it, how it works in general - you will find answers to many "bath" questions in this article.

Location and layout of the bath

One of the important additions to the bath itself at all times was a reservoir with fresh water, located nearby - in the absence of another source of water supply, water was taken from it. A special charm in the proximity of such a reservoir lies in the possibility of a contrast bath - after taking a steam bath in a Russian bathhouse, run out of it and plunge into the cool water of the reservoir. In addition, a natural reservoir made it possible to quickly cope with the fire of the bath, which arose quite often due to violations in the construction of the stove.

Linked up today country bath there is no particular need for a natural reservoir, but it is still convenient if it is located near, say, an artificial reservoir - the final decision always remains with the owner of the dacha.

The main criteria for choosing a place for a bathhouse are: distance from the road, the presence of a natural or artificial fence from outsiders (dense bushes, tree crowns, a fence, outbuildings), a fire-prevention distance from the main residential building of at least 15 meters.

The main premises of the bath are a waiting room, a washing room and a steam room (the last two rooms can be combined into one). The size of the dressing room is determined at the rate of 1.4 m 2 for each bather, the size of the washing room is 1.2 m 2 for one person. In addition, in the dressing room there should be a place for furniture (locker for clothes, benches for sitting) and for storing fuel (box for coal or firewood). In the washing room you will need a place for containers with hot and cold water, stoves and a place for sunbeds.

For example, for a small family (no more than 4 people), a bathhouse of the following sizes is suitable: external size - 4x4 m; dressing room - 1.5x2.4 m; washing - 2x2 m; steam room - 2x1.5 m. True, in a bath of this size you can’t really turn around - but it also takes up little space.

In general, the size of the bath is directly related to the size of the area that can be allocated for it. If the site is significant, then the bath can be expanded by adding a shower cabin, relaxation rooms, etc. to it.

In temperate and cold climatic zones it will be correct if the entrance to the bath is located in the south, and window openings- on the western (south-western) side of it. Such an arrangement of the entrance will greatly simplify the use of the bathhouse in the winter season, since the snowdrifts on the south side melt faster, and the direction of the windows will make it possible to illuminate its premises longer sunlight.

Bath construction - stages

There are several of them:

1. Procurement of basic materials.
2. Selection and laying of the foundation.
3. Creation of a foundation for a stove-heater (if necessary).
4. Creating a floor and sewer system baths.
5. Assembling the log cabin.
6. Roof construction.
7. Formation of a blind area around the perimeter.
8. Caulking bath walls.
9. Laying or installation of a furnace, installation of a chimney.
10. Electricity and water supply of the bath.
11. Installation of doors and installation of shelves.

Preparation of basic materials for the bath

The classic and most successful structural material for the Russian bath was and will be wood - wood easily copes with waterlogging of bath rooms, diverting excess moisture out.

What wood is suitable for building a bath? As a rule, baths are built from pine or spruce round timber with a diameter of no more than 250 mm - only wood will create an indescribable internal atmosphere in the steam room. However, in some places it is better to include wood of other species in the design of the bath - oak, larch and linden. For example, the lower crowns and logs for flooring, made of oak, will allow you to get a truly durable bath. Nuance - the oak must be cut down "in the very juice" (that is, not dead wood) and dried under a canopy. The lower crowns (no more than 4), following the first oak, are best made from larch. The final crowns, elements of interior decoration and cladding should be made of linden or white spruce - their wood removes moisture better than others.

When do you need to store wood for building a bath? Round timber, wood for interior decoration must be cut down in winter, during the period when tree trunks contain the least amount of moisture - it is easier to dry. In addition, not the entire tree trunk is suitable for building a bath - only the middle part of the trunk is suitable, that is, the top and butt are not suitable.

An important criterion in the selection of wood will be the absence of cavities and streaks of resin on the round timber of coniferous species, dryness, a sanded surface, the absence of rotten areas and places of damage by woodworms.

Bath foundation

The main types of foundation for the construction of baths are strip and columnar, depending on local soils. Regardless of the chosen type of foundation, it is necessary to lay them with the utmost care - it is better if to the depth of soil freezing. Preliminary work before laying the foundation of any type: cleaning the site of debris, complete removal of the topsoil to a depth of 200 mm (we remove the fertile layer).

To choose the right foundation, you need to determine the type of local soil, which can belong to one of three main groups:

1. Weak soil consists of peat, silt, silty sand (contains a lot of water), fluid clay or fluid plastic.
2. Heaving soil (subject to seasonal swelling) consists of sand (dusty or fine), clay components (clay, loam and sandy loam).
3. Slightly heaving soil is formed by rocks, medium and large grains of sand.

Columnar (pile) foundation for a bath

They are arranged on slightly heaving soils: it consists of pillars laid in the corners of the bath, as well as at the junctions of internal and external walls. If the distance between two adjacent foundation pillars is more than 2 m, another pillar is laid between them. The depth of laying the columnar foundation is at least 1.5 m.

Pillars for such a foundation are easy to make directly at the construction site of the bath; the material for them can be red brick, rubble stone, connected with concrete mortar. The main (corner) brick pillars for a columnar foundation are usually square in shape, with a side of 380 mm, the auxiliary ones are rectangular, with a section of 380x250 mm. If necessary, the main pillars are made in two bricks - with a section of 510x510 mm. Saving rubble stone and brick during the construction of a columnar foundation is achieved by filling the foundation pits with sand - half their depth, coarse sand is laid in layers (each layer is 100–150 mm), filled with water and rammed.

Foundation pillars when building a bath with your own hands can also be done independently. This will require a collapsible formwork made of boards, smeared from the inside with a non-hardening lubricant of the Emulsol type. Inside the assembled formwork, you need to place iron reinforcement, then pour the concrete mixture.

For casting foundation pillars inside the pits dug for them, a sliding formwork made of roofing iron, plastic, roofing paper or thick cardboard. From the material selected for the sliding formwork, a pipe with a diameter of 200 mm or more is created, placed in a foundation pit of a larger diameter - from 300 mm. The free space around the formwork is covered with sand - it will act as a lubricant and prevent the concrete pillar from rising when the soil swells. Reinforcement tied with thick wire is inserted inside the formwork, then the concrete mixture is poured, which must be carefully compacted. For wire handles, previously fixed on the sliding formwork, it is lifted by 400 mm by rocking, sand is poured from the outside and a new batch of concrete is poured.

Asbestos-cement pipes can be used as a columnar foundation, they are durable, not subject to decay, and their outer surface is smooth enough, which allows them not to change their position when the soil swells. Asbestos-cement pipes are also filled with concrete, their underground part must be covered with a mineral-based construction lubricant to reduce the risk of freezing to the ground.

Between the foundation pillars of the outer walls of the bathhouse and the inner walls of the steam room, brick walls are laid out, their sufficient thickness is brick and even half a brick. Such brick walls must be buried in the ground by 250 mm.

Foundation pillars and brick walls between them are brought to a height of 300–400 mm from the ground level, they must be leveled with cement mortar and covered with roofing material for waterproofing. At the ends of the pillars, during casting, mortgages of the required shape made of metal are installed - they are designed to fasten the log cabin of the bath to the foundation.

When building a bath on heaving soils, it will be necessary to create a tape monolithic foundation.

Sequence of work:

1. Marking the construction site with twine stretched between pegs.
2. trench digging required depth(its size is related to the characteristics of local soils, not less than 400 mm) and 300 mm wide.
3. Adding a layer of sand to the bottom of the trench, then gravel (each 70–100 mm).
4. Formwork installation.
5. Reinforcement tab.
6. fill concrete mix.

The reinforcement laid on the bottom of the foundation trenches must have a cross section of at least 12 mm, it is laid along each of the two sides of the trench and knitted into a frame, lifting it to its middle with the help of brick fragments.

The composition of the concrete mixture is calculated in a ratio of 5:3:1 (crushed stone:sand:cement), the sand used must be dry and clean (washed). Calculate the volume of concrete required for pouring strip foundation, simple enough, you just need to measure the width, depth and total length of the foundation. For example, with a width of 0.3 m, a depth of 0.4 m and a total length of 22 m, the following volume of concrete mixture will be required:

• 0.3 x 0.4 x 22 \u003d 2.64 m 3

One of the difficulties in the preparation of a dry mix of concrete is the lack of scales at construction sites. Therefore, this method of calculating dry components for concrete will come in handy: one 10-liter bucket holds from 15 to 17 kg of gravel, sand - from 14 to 17 kg, cement - from 13 to 14 kg.

The formwork is placed in such a way that the concrete foundation cast into it protrudes 100 mm above the ground level. As the concrete mixture is poured into the prepared formwork, its mass must be repeatedly pierced with a bayonet shovel or wire probe, tap the outside of the formwork with a hammer (we eliminate air pockets). Then you need to wait for the foundation to completely harden, about 5 to 7 days. When carrying out foundation work in the cold season, the formwork after pouring concrete must be covered with PVC film and covered with sawdust or other insulation on top.

After the period allotted for drying the cast foundation, we proceed to its waterproofing and lifting with brick rows (if the bath is not required, then, after waterproofing, we proceed to the cement screed). Need the following materials:

1. Ruberoid.
2. Pipe about 2 m (plastic or metal), section from 32 to 57 mm.
3. The grid is masonry.
4. Red brick.
5. Masonry mortar.

Ruberoid (roofing) is cut into strips sufficient for flooring on a concrete foundation, then laid out over the foundation on bituminous mastic (for roofing - tar mastic). The brick is laid in a single-row dressing method: a masonry mortar is laid out on a roofing material layer, the first brick row “in a poke” (across the foundation axis) is laid on it, then a masonry mesh is laid, the mortar and the next brick row are laid, but already “in a spoon” (along the axis foundation). Each new row brickwork is accompanied by a laying of masonry mesh, laying "in spoons" and "poke" alternate with each other. In the 3rd or 5th bond rows of masonry, it is necessary to install ventilation ducts from pipe scraps - 5-7 ducts are enough for the entire foundation. The number of brick rows depends on the desired height of the foundation.

The last row of brickwork is covered with a cement screed (the composition of the solution is sand:cement as 1:2 or 1:3), with a 20 mm layer.

Independent foundation for the heater and sauna floor

We create the foundation for the stove-heater and assemble the bath house. If a major laying of the heater is supposed, it needs an independent foundation, i.e. not connected with the main foundation.

The floor in the bath can be clay, earth, wood or concrete. By and large, it does not need thermal insulation, since the temperature at its level is practically no higher than 30 ° C. A wooden grate, cork mats or mats are usually laid on the surface of the bath floor - their task is to relieve bath visitors from the sharp feeling of cold caused by touching the floor at the exit from the steam room. For self-drying, the flooring rises above the level of the main floor.

The main disadvantage of the wooden floor of the bath is its frequent waterlogging - water, penetrating through the cracks between the boards, will accumulate in them, causing rotting and an unpleasant odor. wood flooring the floor wears out quickly, acquiring an unsightly appearance, after 6-8 years may require replacement. Tile will be more practical for a bath floor covering - it is easier to care for it, it is not exposed to moisture, which easily flows down its surface.

The floors in the bath rooms must be placed at different levels: the floor of the steam room is 150 mm higher than the floor of the washing room (we keep warm), the floor of the washing room is 30 mm lower than the floor level in the dressing room (we protect against water ingress).

Since the installation of a concrete floor with ceramic tiles in the washing room and steam room is more profitable than a wooden floor, we will consider this option.

There are several ways to arrange a concrete floor in a bath. First of all, we prepare the base for the formation of a warm floor - it consists of a 100 mm layer of sand and a 100 mm layer of crushed stone of the middle fraction, laid in series. Each layer should be well compacted and leveled. Then lay a roofing material on top, covering the walls with it to the height of the future floor.

Further actions:

1. First option- flooring with a 50 mm layer of felt, expanded clay or slag, on top of a 50 mm layer of concrete with the formation of a slope to the drain hole. After the concrete has set, it must be leveled with a cement solution, after which you can proceed to tile work.
2. Second option- 50 mm cement strainer containing perlite (expanded sand). Composition of the mixture: perlite:cement:water as 5:1:3. After a full week from the moment of laying the perlite concrete, we apply a 30 mm layer of concrete on top with a slope under the drain. When dealing with perlite, you need to be especially careful - this material is extremely light, even a light breeze blows it away, so you need to work with it indoors without drafts. Correctly observe the proportion of water!

With a significant rise in the basement of the bath above the ground (from 300 mm), flooring will require wooden logs square section (side 150 mm). If the dimensions of the bathhouse do not exceed 2000x3000 mm, then the logs will be supported by the logs. For larger sizes, additional supports for floor logs will be required, they are pillars made of concrete or brick (250x250 mm) and are placed at a distance of 700–800 mm. support poles for a log, it is necessary to put it on a multi-layer base of sand, crushed stone and concrete - each 100 mm.

Important! Before forming the base for the support of the log, it is necessary to make a foundation for the stove-heater and build a sewerage system.

Wood for logs can be oak, larch or conifers, logs should be treated with tar or antiseptic before installation.

Solution floor covering in this case, it is as follows: the concreted space between the foundation is covered with roofing material with walls overlapping to the height of the floor, covered with slag or expanded clay (between the layer of roofing material and bulk insulation, a layer of 200 mm foam can be laid), a draft floor of 29 mm edged boards is attached to the underside of the lags. Then a PVC film is laid, foil mineral insulation, again a layer of film - for vapor barrier. On top we pour a 5 mm layer of concrete with a fine fraction filler, create a slope under the drain hole - after 3-4 days we put ceramic tiles.

Do not forget to bring the foundation for the furnace to floor level.

The floor in the dressing room is made of 19-29 mm grooved boards made of softwood.

Important point: when finishing a clean floor, and indeed the entire steam room and washing room, do not use synthetic building materials - the condition is especially important for a steam room!

Bath sewerage system

To drain wastewater from the bath, you will need: a pit with a water seal, a well for Wastewater and pipes leading dirty water into the pit and further into the sewer well.

The pit is torn off outside the foundation of the bath, gravity pipes made of plastic, cast iron or ceramics are brought into it from the steam room and washing room ( metal pipes rust quickly).

The pit should be 500 mm from the foundation, its depth - 700 mm, section - 500x500 mm. The walls of the pit are covered with a 100 mm layer of concrete, a 110 mm drain pipe (pipes) from the bath is inserted into it under the foundation. The main well for drains, containing at least 2 m 3, must be dug at a distance of at least 2.5 m from the pit - the farther the better. A pipe is brought to it from the pit, laid under a slope at a depth of 1.5 m (below the freezing depth), its outlet from the pit must be located 100 mm from its bottom. After entering drain pipe, the main sewage well is filled with gravel or sand 1 m from the bottom, soil is poured on top - a layer of at least 500 mm. When laying, carefully tamp each layer.

Before the outlet of the drain pipe into the pit, a galvanized water seal is installed, located at an obtuse angle to the drain pipe from the bath. Its edges and upper side are hermetically attached to the walls of the pit, the distance from its lower edge to the bottom should be no more than 50 mm - thanks to this design unpleasant odors And cold air do not penetrate into the steam room (washing room) through the drain hole.

To prevent freezing in winter, the pit must be closed with two covers of the appropriate size (wooden or metal), felt should be laid between them, and top cover cover with expanded clay, slag or sawdust on top.

Shed, roof and blind area

It is better to make a log cabin for a bath to order from professional performers; its manufacture is quite difficult. The finished log house in disassembled form must be brought to the construction site and assembled according to the numbering of the logs. Crowns are fastened with 25 mm steel spikes with a total length of up to 150 mm, a tooth length of up to 70 mm.

The design of the roof of the bath includes rafters, a crate is attached to them, then roofing material. The choice of the final roof structure depends on roofing with which it will be covered. The rafters are attached to the last crown of the log house (better to the penultimate one) with the help of staples-thorns. As a rule, the construction of baths involves the arrangement of one or gable roof, the slope angle (from 10° to 60°) which depends on the abundance and amount of precipitation in the area. Please note - the steeper the roof, the more material is required to create it.

Shed rafters, located at an angle, are fixed with two external or internal and external supports. If the span of the rafters exceeds 5 m, they are supported with additional struts. The rafters of a gable roof rest with their lower ends on the walls, the upper ends are interconnected, forming a ridge.

The roof of the bath can be covered with any material (slate, tiles, roofing material, galvanized, etc.), with an overlap on the walls of at least 500 mm.

The attic space must be made ventilated, that is, equipped with two doors at opposite ends of the roof.

Along the perimeter of the foundation, we perform a blind area: we completely remove upper layer soil, deepen by 200 mm at a distance of 600-800 mm from the basement of the bath, lay a 100 mm layer of gravel (crushed stone, expanded clay) with its subsequent leveling. Laying expansion joints(19 mm board covered with resin or bitumen, with a step of 2-2.5 m perpendicular to the foundation), pour a 100 mm layer of concrete. Before the concrete sets, its surface must be ironed - dry cement is covered with a layer of 3-5 mm. After 3 days, the line of contact between the blind area and the foundation of the bath must be covered with bitumen for its waterproofing.

Caulker of a bath house

It is carried out for warming the log house - sealing the cracks between its logs, linen tow, red moss, hemp hemp, wool felt are traditionally used for caulking. Natural materials for caulking can be replaced with factory-made materials made from jute and flax fibers: linen and felt - jute and flax-jute. The advantage of factory materials for caulking over natural ones is resistance to moth and fungus damage, and it is easier to work with factory material, because it is produced in the form of a continuous tape of a given thickness and width.

The caulking of the log house is carried out during its assembly - the caulking material is laid between the logs during their laying. After the construction of the roof, a complete caulking is carried out - from the outside and inside log house, a year later - repeated caulking (the log house settles down - the logs dry).

The main tools for caulking are a spatula and a mallet, you can make them yourself or buy ready-made ones. Both of these instruments are made of wood (ash, oak or beech). A caulking spatula looks like a wedge with a handle 200 mm long and a pointed blade 100 mm, handle thickness 30 mm, blade width at the base 65 mm, at the end - 30 mm. The wooden mallet has a rounded shape: the handle diameter is 40 mm, its length is 250 mm, the impact part diameter is 70 mm, and the length is 100 mm.

Caulking is performed in two ways - “in a set” or “in a stretch”. In the second way, we caulk like this: we collect the caulking material into a strand, lay it in the gap between the logs and push it in with a spatula, filling the gap completely, without gaps. Then we collect the tow with a roller, apply it to the caulked groove, take out small strands of material from it, wrap the roller around them and drive it into the groove with the help of a spatula and roller - with force, until we are completely sure that the groove (slot) is filled.

The first method of caulking log cabins is designed to cover grooves (slots) of large width. We twist the material for caulking with 2 mm strands, form several loops from them and drive them into the slot. Loops are recruited in an amount sufficient to completely fill the gap.

Caulking rules:

• first, the material is hammered along the upper edge of the log and only after that - along the bottom;
• we start work on caulking from the slots of the lower crown, on both sides. Then we move on to the lower crown of the adjacent wall and so on. Having finished caulking the slots of the lower crowns, we begin work on the next one in height, moving from this crown to the next one in the nearest wall (right to left or left to right, it doesn’t matter).

In no case do not caulk only one wall - it will rise and cause the log house to skew, you will have to disassemble / assemble it again. Recall once again: caulking is performed in the direction "from bottom to top" along the perimeter of the log house.

We put the oven

There are many design options for sauna stoves, they can be heated with wood, gas, liquid fuel or use built-in heating elements and be heated by electricity, they can be brick, cast iron or metal. brick ovens in baths they are made with a wall thickness of “half a brick” or “a whole brick”, masonry joints must be bandaged especially carefully, striving for their smallest thickness in order to achieve the greatest efficiency of the furnace. Only red brick is used for laying stoves. The firebox of the stove is taken out into the dressing room, its remaining three walls are in the washing room (steam room), while the distance from them to the walls of the washing room should be at least 250 mm - in this case, the heat will not go “into the walls”.

For a cast-iron or metal furnace, the formation of an independent foundation is not required - only for a brick one.

The heaters installed for those who like to take a steam bath are equipped with a chamber containing stones of various weights (from 1 to 5 kg). But, pebbles, boulders and granite are suitable for filling the chamber of the heater. The design of these furnaces is extremely simple - similar to cookers, heaters differ from them in a pipe of greater width or in the presence of a chamber with stones.

To obtain the highest temperature in the steam room, iron ingots must be added to the stones at a percentage of 80:20 (stones: ingots). For every 1 m 3 of a steam room, at least 6 kg of stones and cast iron ingots will be required.

If a distance of 40–50 mm is observed in the furnace between its walls and the water-heating boiler, the effect of a comprehensive blowing of the boiler with hot gases and the fastest heating of water is achieved.

For better draft, you need to bring the chimney as close as possible to the roof ridge. When passing the chimney through the attic space, be sure to fluff the chimney 380 mm. Remember that the pipe should not pass near the roof sheathing and rafters closer than 150 mm (fire regulations).

Electricity and water supply of the bath

At least 8 liters are required for washing one bath user hot water. There are several ways to provide such an amount: heat a container of water on the stove, use geyser, install an electric heater - boiler. If available central water supply, the pipeline to the bath leads from the main house - water from such a pipeline system must be drained into winter time otherwise it will freeze and burst the pipes.

Water can be taken from a well or well by installing submersible pump for its injection and supplying such a water supply system with cleaning filters. And in this case, in winter, the water must either be drained after each use of the bath, or the supply pipes must be insulated.

To the bath you need to stretch an independent line for the supply of electricity and the easiest way is to do it by air (air). For air, you will need a special cable - we sweep away the “bare” aluminum cable right away, stopping at two options: SIP (self-supporting insulated wire) and VVGng. The first type of cable is very good, it has long term service (more than 30 years), it is durable and does not need to be supported by a supporting cable. But it's extremely difficult to deal with him. installation work, because it is too thick (minimum cross section - 16 mm 2). Aluminum SIP cannot be pulled through the attic of the bath according to fire safety standards, it is required to fasten it to special anchor clamps - in terms of the amount of costs and hassle with its installation, its cost will be expensive.

A simpler solution is an air duct with a VVGng copper cable fixed on a supporting steel cable. The cable is suspended from a cable on a wire insulated with plastic, its service life is up to 10 years, after which it must be replaced (!). For a single-core cable VVGng (of course, there must be two cores - each of them must be in an independent double braid), pulled through the air to the bath, the optimal cross section will be 2.5 mm 2 - it is not known exactly what kind of electrical equipment the owner of the dacha wants to power from it in the future.

All junction boxes, sockets and switches, electrical panel must be outdoor installation only. According to the rules fire safety it is forbidden to install junction boxes, switches and sockets in the washing / steam room - only in the dressing room. Do not joke with the possibility of short circuit in wooden building- all internal wiring of the bath should be made only in a non-combustible corrugated hose, fixed to special clips, cable passage through partitions - only through steel pipe.

Try to arrange the cables in the junction box, socket or lamp so that they go there from below or from the side, but not from above - a drop of condensate sliding along the braid can cause a short circuit.

All electrical appliances must have a moisture protection class of at least IP44 (preferably the maximum - IP54). Install simple lamps- metal case, only glass cover. All connections of the internal wiring of the cable are only on the terminal block, no twists. And install an RCD in the shield, setting it to 30 mA.

For work in the electrical panel and installation of RCDs, be sure to invite a qualified electrician if you yourself are not one!

Installation of partitions, ceiling, interior decoration, installation of windows and doors

The internal partitions in the bath can be brick or wooden, with subsequent heat and moisture insulation in both cases. The partition between the washing room and the dressing room, in which the stove is installed, must be made of brick, or brick inserts are made in it with masonry in one brick - on the sides in contact with the stove body.

Interior decoration is usually carried out in cases where the bath itself is built of brick, stone or timber - here the decoration scheme is classic: insulation, vapor barrier film and lining. In addition, when performing exterior and interior decoration, you will have to rebuild the ventilation system of the bath, because the log logs will be covered with sheathing and will not be able to provide full ventilation.

The ceiling is formed in two layers - draft and finishing. The draft ceiling is attached to the horizontal roof joists, if necessary reinforced with intermediate beams. Its area is covered with insulation - expanded clay or slag. Inside the washing / steam room, a heater and a vapor barrier film are attached to the draft ceiling, after which the ceiling is covered fine finish- lime, pine tongue-and-groove board (from 20 mm thick - the thicker the board, the longer it will retain the woody smell).

Bathroom needs windows small size(on average 500x700 mm) and cut them low - enough so that you can look out through them to the person sitting on the bench. The windows in the bath are always double-glazed, depending on the size - with a window or fully hinged - for quick ventilation.

Doors in the sauna rooms must be installed so that they open outward - for reasons of fire safety. material for door leaves a tongue-and-groove board (40-50 mm) or a board with a selected quarter serves, the boards are fastened to the dowels. The size of the sashes must be deliberately reduced by 5 mm - more than necessary for the actual distance between the quarters of the jambs - otherwise, when the humidity rises, the sash will swell and it will be difficult to open (close) it. Optimal size door to washing department baths - 600x1600 mm, in the steam room - 800x1500 mm, with a threshold height of about 300 mm above the floor (it is uncomfortable to walk, but it will keep warm). Hinges for hanging door leaves - brass, going into the dressing room (washing room) and into the washing room (steam room). Door handles - wooden (especially in the steam room).

The material for the shelves is linden, pine, poplar or aspen. Minimum shelf length - 1800 mm, width - 500–800 mm. The distance between the "floors" of two-row shelves should be at least 350 mm, the minimum distance from the second row to ceiling covering- 1100 mm.

The surface for lying is formed by a board with a width of 80 mm, a thickness of 40 mm, a gap of 15 mm wide is formed between the boards. A distance of 10 mm is maintained from the wall to the shelf. Boards for sheathing shelves are attached to a frame made of timber with a section of 50x70 mm in two ways: from above - with the help of nails, the caps of which are sunk into the tree; bottom with screws. For fastening choose nails and screws made of stainless steel or copper.

All corners in the design of the shelves are rounded, the surfaces are carefully cleaned with zero sandpaper.

For greater convenience, the shelves in the steam room are equipped with a headboard: the height at the beginning of the rise is 30 mm, the length of the headboard is 460 mm, the final maximum height is 190 mm.

When choosing a material for creating shelves, be careful - it is believed that knotty areas have a higher density and can lead to skin burns. Therefore, try to pick up boards and timber without knotty areas at all or with a minimum number of them.

Fire fighting measures

Protect the bathhouse from the threat of fire - lay a steel sheet in front of the furnace furnace, make sure that the furnace doors are securely fastened, install fire extinguishing equipment nearby (a container with water, sand and fire extinguishers). Make sure that you can freely open the doors of the steam room and washing room when kindling the bath. Do not block passages, the space in front of doors and windows.

Our portal is replete with examples of the construction and operation of small, or, as they are now commonly called, mini-houses, but usually these are either frame-modular or frame structures. As it turned out, the log is also suitable wall material, especially when the construction concept is environmentally friendly and natural. One of our craftsmen, with the nickname mike099. His theme has collected all the stars, which indicates its relevance, so it makes sense to expand the reach of the audience by considering the construction process in stages:

• Eco hut.
• Preparation.
• Foundation.
• Box.
• Roof.
• Internal work.

Eco-hut only 30 m²

mike099 FORUMHOUSE user

The dream of building a wooden house has long crept in - an environmentally friendly one, practically without paints, mineral wool, polystyrene foam and other "benefits" of modern industry. The task is to build a solid, comfortable house with minimal effort, suitable for winter arrivals and year-round living, therefore shingles, boulders, mezzanines, Russian stoves and other delights of centuries past were not included in the project.

The craftsman immediately decided on the construct:

• Pile foundation.
• A box of hand-cut logs.
• Metal roof.
• As a heater for ceilings - sawdust with and sawdust with lime.

Preparation

The preparation stage included clearing the site, digging a well, installing a purchased wooden change house and a toilet, after which the project selection stage began. Initially, the craftsman aimed at a one-and-a-half-story log house 8 × 9 meters with five rooms, but as he comprehended, a completely different design loomed. From the second floor, although attic, he refused, both because of the unwillingness to engage in stair fitness, and for other reasons. In addition, with the planned furnace heating will a big difference temperatures between levels. Plus, it is problematic to insulate with sawdust pitched roof, with overlap and a cold attic is much easier. Then it was the turn of the quadrature, and the result of the selection of the optimal layout was the project of a log house 6 × 6 meters, with a set of functional premises.

The meters vital for a comfortable existence were taken into account, as well as savings in operation by reducing heating costs, and country specificity - a house for “drinking tea and sleeping”. However, this adjustment in scale led to the abandonment of the planned cutting of the log into a cup. A six-meter log just fits into the plan, and a seven-meter one is much more expensive, and only a few work with it. Yes, visually cutting into a cup wins, but the “dovetail” with the intersection is quite functional, and the ends can be covered with platbands.

Foundation

Preference screw piles was given away because of the desire to try a "super modern solution" and save money, as well as because of the speed and relative ease of installation. In total, nine piles were screwed in - three points of support for each bearing beam, the pile diameter was 108 mm, and the thickness was 4 mm. Despite some problems during the installation of piles and the fragility of the coating, positioned as a durable protective layer, but in fact torn off without effort by a fingernail, the craftsman is satisfied with the choice. Moreover, it is possible that the bathhouse will also be put on piles, although it admits that the tape or slab will be “more reliable”.

Box

The log house was collected on moss, ordered in advance from another region, before installation, the moss was poured out to dry, since it was still fresh when it was delivered and did not particularly shrink during the two weeks spent waiting in the wings. It turned out to be problematic to make log partitions due to the small dimensions of the four-wall, and the cost of the box in this case would have jumped by almost half. Therefore, in one day, the hired team brought and assembled just a box in one more day, and although the moss after assembly hung picturesquely on all the walls, it took much less than planned, as practice has shown, they obviously did not report it.

To dry the log house was cut out ventilation holes size 30×30 cm, with grid. To everyone who is only in the process, mike099 recommends doing more. He was already engaged in heaving (primary caulking of the log house with moss) on his own, driving the hanging moss into the voids, cut off the excess with a clerical knife.

Roof

From popular now soft tiles The craftsman refused for several reasons.

mike099

The soft roof was dismissed immediately, due to the lower environmental friendliness and higher price. Binders, the basis of soft tiles - these materials are far from natural. Its installation is more expensive, and you need a flat flooring made of OSB or plywood.

Therefore, I preferred metal tiles, imitating the ceramic source. A wide, semicircular ridge, instead of rafter elements - a central ridge support beam. Waterproofing, counter-lattice along the rafters (50 × 50 mm), lathing with a step under the coating profile (35 cm). As planned - eaves overhangs of 70 cm, in the future there will be a metal drainage system.

After assembling the log house “under the roof”, I protected the ventilation windows with awnings, and also installed temporary ebbs from the waterproofing along the ends, slots of the ebb and at the junction of the box and the strapping. No matter how much I wanted to avoid the use of chemistry, I had to treat the gables from imitation timber with protective impregnation.

Internal work

The ceiling was made at the stage of assembling the beam, I wanted to keep the style, but processing the log now is not a cheap pleasure, like the log itself. The craftsman replaced the log with a board 50 mm thick, with gaps covered by an unedged board 25 mm thick, all the lumber was debarked and sanded before installation. In order to avoid problems when insulating with a mixture of sawdust and clay, two supporting logs go through the ceiling.

I made the window openings on my own, as the specialized companies raised the price tag to unattainable heights.

mike099

The pigtail is made simple, rough T-shaped: I marked the grooves in the log with a saw, the main sample was cut with a milling cutter. I laid a bar 50x50 mm dry, with a linen tape (insulation) and shot a box from a board 200x50 mm to it with self-tapping screws.

Another concession in favor modern materials – steel door and two plastic windows, wooden euro-windows were installed in the future living quarters. Again, in order to save money, he painted the windows on his own, which he regrets - the quality turned out to be lower than the factory one, and taking into account the cost of consumables, the difference in money is minimal with large labor costs.

To increase the heat capacity of the house, I chose a combined stove, brick, with a cast-iron stove, as a compromise between an iron potbelly stove and a Russian stove. Under the furnace, the foundation is 1.7 m deep, reinforcing cage, two m³ of concrete.

As it dried, the draft floor “pleased” with cracks, I had to close them with flashings, before filling the sawdust, I laid the remaining dry moss as a natural antiseptic.

Sawdust before laying flavored with lime and carefully tamped. Before starting the installation of the finishing floorboard, the craftsman brought out communications.

An unpleasant surprise was the strong warpage of the floor after drying for just one day and the loss of knots. As a result, the coating is opened and re-installed, and the reason is the purchase of materials in a hurry, on the market.

The craftsman decided to leave in the first winter with a warmed underground - metal carcass along the perimeter of the basement, to it XPS, 50 mm thick, and horizontally, on the ground, with a slope from the house, there are also sheets of insulation. The horizontal layer was simply covered back with earth, the lawn in the area right under the log house, and the basement was later revetted with basement siding under brickwork.

Log sanding mike099 tackled on his own, first with the help of an eccentric grinder. It turned out to be rather weak, so they replaced it with a grinder, first I used a circle with a grain of 80, the second pass - with a grain of 120-150. Only 200 liters of waste accumulated in the vacuum cleaner, but it was worth it.

Wooden housing construction is gaining momentum, which is no wonder, because living in an environmentally friendly facility in the age of the stone jungle is much healthier. standalone device the house of your dreams is quite possible, provided that the owner suburban area owns the skills of carpentry. Below are descriptions of the important processes that precede such work, the answer to the question of how to make a log house with your own hands, as well as recommendations for its operation after installation.

Scheme of assembling a house from a bar.

Site preparation

What is it? The site must be cleared of any kind of vegetation. Moreover, after uprooting all the shrubs, you should water the ground with chemicals so that the roots do not stretch again. If this is not done, then you can wait for the appearance of trees in the log house. Perhaps, from a design point of view, it will look stylish and unusual, but broken floorboards and constant dampness are unlikely to suit the owners.

Scheme of preparing logs for assembling a log house.

The cleared site is fenced, thereby preventing the passage of other people's vehicles and marking the boundaries of the construction site. It is necessary to ensure the arrival of special equipment, if any, and conduct electricity and water to the site. Thus, the area can be considered ready for the next stage - the foundation.

It would be nice to equip a place for storing wood. Usually this is a canopy that protects the material from natural actions. In addition, it will need to be covered with a film if the construction is delayed.

Foundation construction

The scheme of the foundation for a house made of timber.

When choosing a foundation for a log house, one should proceed from its size and terrain conditions:

1. Tape. Suitable for any type of building. Works well on problematic soils. You can be sure that the log house will not “go” over time. Minus - requires a large number concrete, which cannot reduce the cost of construction, even if you make a log house yourself.
2. Pile. Suitable for light one-story buildings. It behaves perfectly on heaving and rocky soils, reduces construction costs, but you can forget about floor insulation: a walking wind sweeping snowdrifts under a log house is a common thing. It is built in warm areas.
3. Columnar. First of all, it is intended for damp lands. It is too capricious: after shrinkage, the level will definitely move, so its construction should be left to specialists. Economical.
4. Slab. The most reliable, but expensive. Represents the basis which is completely filled in with concrete. It shows itself perfectly on problematic soil: it does not lead, does not allow dampness or heaving. Laborious.

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Below is a description of the installation for a strip foundation as the best in terms of price-quality ratio.

Tools for making a log house.

For work you will need:

• shovel;
• level;
• measuring instruments;
• formwork - boards, boards;
• crushed stone, sand;
• fittings;
• insulation;
• concrete pour.

The process starts with markup. Each bearing wall the log house must be firmly placed on the foundation. With that condition, a contour is outlined. It is very convenient to use wooden stakes and harsh threads.

Then ditches are dug along the marked lines. The soil must be immediately stored separately, it may still be needed. Depth, depending on freezing, cannot be less than 70 cm.

Corner joints of the timber box.

After that, the future foundation must be insulated. Styrene is used for this. The plates are laid on the sides of the ditch and fixed with pins, piercing and thus fixing them along the walls. If you neglect the insulation, then later it will affect the quality of operation.

Reinforcement is being installed. It is absolutely necessary for the rigidity of the structure. To do this, steel rods are shifted by crossing and boiled at the nodes and at the corners of the future log house.

Expose the formwork to the edge ground floor. Shields or boards are strengthened in accordance with the level so that the future foundation is even.

Do concrete pouring. To save money, rubble is poured into the ditch - construction waste: rubble, broken bricks, stones, and so on. Filling is carried out slowly, until complete shrinkage, each time pouring water until a milky foam appears on the surface. This is done so that the surface of the foundation does not crack. Then he should be given time for complete solidification - 2-3 weeks.

Installation of crowns of a bar box.

After the formwork has been removed, construction cannot begin immediately. Shrinkage of the base occurs during the year. During this time, it is possible to review all the nuances of the material.

Thus, the construction of the foundation can be considered completed. If the owners in the future want to have any extension, then you need to think about this even when planning the site. It is best when a common log house is made on one basis.

Direct material selection

Probably, even before the moment of walking around the offices, the owners had already decided on the choice of wood for their future brainchild. Based on financial capabilities, the material in the log house corresponds to them. An array is considered more expensive, but with it you can be sure that the house will be warm and durable. In addition, due to the beauty of a wild or rounded log, there is no need to decorate it. No less beautiful will be profiled or glued beams. In this case, construction with such materials will be easier due to the correct geometric shape of the material.

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Types of logs that are used for log cabins.

The problem with the question of how to properly make the log house itself lies in cutting corners. Without the appropriate skill, you can get at least material consumption. The greater evil is the windswept house. There are many types of felling. The most popular were "in the paw" and "in the bowl." In the first case, the consumption of material decreases, but the corners become cold bridges. In the second, skill is required, but a house with such a cabin is reliable.

It also makes sense to choose softwood or hardwood. The advantage of conifers is the presence of phytoncides, which serve as protection against mold, fungus and bark beetles for the tree. The downside of coniferous trees is that, due to their resinous content, it is not recommended to build bathhouses from them. The resin flows and poses a threat to people with high blood pressure, as it clogs all ventilation. The choice should be optimal in terms of price, decent quality and durability.

The laying of the first crown begins - the main element in the entire frame. To make it of high quality, it is recommended to choose larch for such a case. This tree has established itself as an excellent material that does not interact with moisture. An example of this is the piles in Venice, which have stood in the water for many hundreds of years. They were made from Russian larch, by the way.

Scheme of assembling a log cabin from a gun carriage.

So, layers of roofing material are laid on the foundation, or it is tarred with bituminous mastic. Then a beam or log with already cut grooves is placed. Naturally, strictly according to the level. Also, you can not forget to stock up on interventional insulation. It can be moss, jute or tow. Although the builders refuse the latter. Logs for the subfloor are immediately installed (for the convenience of the entire installation process).

The following crowns do not differ from the installation of the first. The only difference is that the initial log or beam should be somewhat wider than the rest. The work is carried out according to the plan or project, accurately combining the drawings with the realities. That is, window openings or doorways should be in place immediately, and not later. The fastening material is usually wooden dowels. The use of metal is undesirable, since the appearance of corrosion will lead to the destruction of wood. The work is carried out to the desired height, shifting the crowns with a heater. The last two rows in the log house are not fixed with anything. After shrinkage, they must be removed in order to properly mount and strengthen truss system. Thus, you can build a log house yourself. This is not the most difficult, but responsible work.

Assembling a log house with your own hands + Video. Wooden frame was used in the times of Rus'. Even now, despite the fact that there are a huge number of diverse building materials, wooden houses extraordinarily popular. Without a doubt, such a house can be called environmentally friendly, and in terms of strength it will not be inferior to a brick and stone house. It is quite possible to build and assemble a log house with your own hands if you know the installation technology, as well as all the nuances of the assembly.

To learn how to assemble a log house, you should first make a project at home, prepare a tree and select the required type.

A wooden frame is a structure made of logs that are laid horizontally and form walls.

I call each row of logs that go along the perimeter a crown, and the bottom row is an overhead crown. The structure at the corners will be formed by connecting the logs with the ledges of others, and if the house is represented only by external walls, then it will be called a four-walled one, and if there is a partition from the inside, then a five-walled log house with connecting logs from the inside in a T-shape. To build such a house, you will need hardwood or softwood trees, and it is desirable that the trees are recently felled. If trees are cut down in winter, they will have less moisture. Preference is given to softwood, ideally it should be pine.

In order to build a log house, you will need logs with a diameter of 25 cm. If you live in an area with a warm climate, logs with a diameter of 2 cm will do. The material must be of high quality, not have rot and wormholes.

The construction of a log house can be divided into several main stages:

So, to assemble a log house from a bar with your own hands, you should choose a technology. At the moment, the 3 main ones are Canadian, Russian and Norwegian. The first two types are based on the use of rounded logs, and the Norwegian technology is based on the use of logs hewn from two sides. Such technologies differ from each other in their approach to the manufacture of blanks and laying wood.

But still, whatever technology you choose, you need to carefully prepare the material, namely, calibrate, grind, and select logs of the same diameter.

The following types of foundation are suitable for a wooden frame:

• Columnar - it is suitable for small houses, but careful calculation is required during construction.
• Deep foundation foundation is the most expensive foundation, which is used for the construction of bulky buildings with a garage and basement.
• Shallow. It is considered the best for a log house, and this technology is ideal for any soil, and is also economical and reliable.

How to properly assemble

First, remove the bark from the felled tree and cut it into logs with the same length as the walls require + 1 meter allowance. If there are no logs with the same length available, then they can be obtained by crossing shorter logs using the “comb-groove” method. Please note that the first crown of the log house must be made of high quality and, most importantly, solid material. Logs that are intended for interior work should be hewn on both sides.

The assembly of a log cabin from rounded logs can be done in the following two ways:

1. With the help of wooden dowels.
2. With the help of nails.

The first method is preferable, since the area of ​​\u200b\u200bcontact between the logs and the dowel is larger, which means that the structure will be securely fastened. The dowels are connected in a checkerboard pattern, and the distance between them should be no more than 200 cm. If you are assembling with nails, then you should correctly calculate their length. With a wall thickness of 10 cm, the length of the nail must be at least 25 cm. Please note that the nail head must be deeply recessed into the wood, otherwise the material will shrink.

When the foundation dries, its surface should be covered with such material for waterproofing as roofing material. After that, you can start laying the first crown of the thickest logs. In order to make it stronger, use transverse spacer bars. They and the lower crown should be well covered with tar and antiseptic. Between the lower salary and the foundation, the gaps should be closed with concrete mortar and brick on a pre-laid layer of roofing material.

Most often, the logs at the corners are connected according to the “in a cup” or “in a paw” method. In the first case, it is supposed to be tied at the corners with an allowance of logs, and in the second, without allowances. The cup method is suitable for round logs, and the second method is suitable for hewn and round logs. Note that the second method is even more economical as no excess wood is left on the corners. When assembling, you should control how even the corners and vertical walls are.

the topmost crown is called Mauerlat, and it serves as a support for the roof. The upper crown must be made of high-quality and strong logs. For windows and doors, you need to leave the appropriate openings, but they can be cut out even after you build a log house. This method is even preferable, since during the construction of the structure you will be able to ensure a uniform load on the foundation, which will mean that the house will not be skewed.

Wall work + interior work

After the assembly of the log house with your own hands is completed, you should caulk the walls with moss, tow or felt. you can use artificial materials made from real rubber. Such materials will hermetically close the gaps between the logs, due to which the walls will receive a monolithic and completely waterproofed structure. You can start caulking surfaces from below and with the help of tools such as caulking and a hammer. This procedure should be performed around the entire perimeter, since if you caulk individual walls, the structure may be skewed. When the processing of the outer walls is completed, you can begin to caulk the inner surfaces.

After that, the wood should be covered with antiseptics. Be sure to turn the wood with flame retardants in those places where the fireplace, stove and in the chimney area will be installed. Such procedures will help to significantly extend the life of the house. In the end, you should make a shelter from waterproofing materials. Such a procedure should be carried out 2 times a year, so that at first the house gives a natural shrinkage, and then maintained in the same condition. When the walls are ready, you can begin the installation of the blood and carry out the interior decoration of the room.

Usually, quality wood should be sanded and varnished, and a colored/clear coat can be used for this. If you want to do modern design in the interior, then internal walls can be sheathed with wood or drywall, but first take care of the installation electrical wires. Electrical wires must be insulated.

Log cabins made of wood do not need at all additional insulation, therefore, laying such a heater as foam between the facing material or walls is not required. If necessary, you can use mineral wool as a heater.

The floors in the log house are made of boards with a thickness of 4 cm - they must be tightly laid to each other, then fixed, sanded and processed along the entire perimeter of the walls. if desired, you can varnish the floor, and then lay the laminate.

Advantages of a log house

Do-it-yourself wooden log cabin has many advantages:

Results

Wooden frame- This is one of the most environmentally friendly buildings. Such a house will literally “breathe”, as a constant air exchange takes place through natural wood. Due optimal performance humidity in wooden frame even useful to live!

The service life of such houses is much longer than even the most solid buildings. Frame structures, in which the beams are impregnated with an anti-corrosion and fire-resistant composition, can be an excellent home for several generations of a family. Interestingly, the thermal conductivity of a log house is 2.5 times less than that of a house built of brick, and this provides warmth inside the house in winter and pleasant coolness in summer. The outer walls of the log house do not need to be insulated.