Well      06/13/2019

Honeysuckle when it blooms. Honeysuckle honeysuckle, planting and care

When you mention the honeysuckle plant, you will probably immediately imagine a lush bush strewn with healthy bluish-blue berries. However, the well-known genus of the honeysuckle family in nature is represented by such dissimilar plants that it is sometimes very difficult to guess in them the closest relatives of the popular garden crop. Among them there are dwarf creeping shrubs and tall climbing giants, widely in demand in vertical gardening. One of decorative vines This species has remained a favorite of gardeners for several centuries. The name of the beautiful honeysuckle is honeysuckle, which means “goat leaf” in Latin. Apparently, horned gourmets are not at all averse to feasting on the juicy greens of the plant.

In the landscape, honeysuckle honeysuckle looks simply luxurious - a powerful deciduous shrub up to 6 m high with flexible climbing shoots and leathery dark green leaves, bluish on the inside. In May-June, fragrant flowers bloom in the axils of the upper leaves, fused into disc-shaped plates. original form, collected in small bunches. Honeysuckle is also wonderfully good at the end of the season, when its fiery red flowers ripen. inedible berries. The vine decorated with beaded fruits remains elegant and lush until late autumn, shedding leaves only with the onset of frost.

Landing dates

In the open ground of the middle zone, honeysuckle honeysuckle is planted as strong, healthy seedlings that have reached the age of 3–4 years. Best time for work - end of April - beginning of May. Good results Planting vines in the fall, during the period of mass leaf fall, also gives benefits.

Site preparation

In nature, honeysuckle lives in the Caucasus and Southern Europe, preferring to settle on sunny forest edges, which means that a warm, bright or slightly shaded place with drained, nutritious soil is suitable for it in the garden. 2 weeks before planting, dig up the area with the addition of rotted organic matter, nitrogen-containing and potassium fertilizers.

Landing in the ground

The technology for planting honeysuckle is as follows:

  • Dig a pit measuring 0.5 x 0.5 x 0.5 m on the site. If you plan to arrange hedge, make a trench half a meter deep and the same width.
  • Place drainage at the bottom of the pit: broken brick, clay or ceramic shards, crushed stone or expanded clay.
  • Fill the pit 2/3 with fertile soil.
  • Place the seedling in the hole and dig it in, leaving the root collar 5 cm above the soil surface.
  • Water the bush generously and, when the water is absorbed, sprinkle the tree trunk circle with mulching material: old peat, sawdust or humus.

In a group, honeysuckle vines are recommended to be placed at a distance of 1.5–2 m from each other, in a hedge - at intervals of 0.5–0.7 m. And, of course, do not forget to provide good support for the climbing shrub. If you are not going to give the plant a fence or building at its disposal, drive strong posts along the edges of the area and stretch a nylon or metal mesh between them. From wooden slats or metal profile you can build an intricate support structure for the vine.

In the climate of the middle zone, honeysuckle honeysuckle, despite its southern origin, feels great, and therefore caring for it is extremely simple:

  • Watering the vine should not be too frequent, but plentiful. Pour at least 15–20 liters of water under an adult specimen at a time. Make sure that the soil around the tree trunk always remains slightly moist, since honeysuckle does not like drought.
  • After each rain or watering, the soil under the plant is carefully loosened, while weeds are pulled out. If you mulch the area with peat or humus, the need for frequent loosening and weeding will be reduced.
  • Honeysuckle accepts fertilizing favorably and responds to it with abundant and long flowering, so in early spring, fill the soil with rotted mullein or complete mineral fertilizer for flowers. In the summer months, it is recommended to spray the vine on the leaves with solutions of microfertilizers.

These easy procedures will help your beauty grow quickly and fully develop, but to maintain her attractiveness she will need timely and high-quality pruning. If you allow honeysuckle to grow spontaneously, very soon it will turn into a shaggy, shapeless lump, which will then be almost impossible to bring back to its proper form.

The liana is formed in stages:

  • Immediately after planting, all branches of the seedling are shortened by 2/3 of the length.
  • In the second year, only 3–4 of the strongest young shoots are left, and the rest are cut off at the root.
  • During the summer, the branches of the plant are trimmed and directed along the support as necessary. Keep in mind that honeysuckle honeysuckle twists its “curls” counterclockwise.
  • When the vine reaches the desired height, pinch the top to encourage the development of side branches.
  • After wintering, shoots that are broken, diseased or thicken the bush are cut out. But! There is no need to rush into a spring haircut, since the external lifelessness of shoots can sometimes be deceptive.

Honeysuckle blossoms weakening year by year - sure sign that it’s time to rejuvenate the vine. The procedure is carried out in 2 steps: in the first year, half of the branches are shortened to 10–15 cm, and in the next season the same is done with the remaining shoots. Very soon, the buds located at the base of the plant will develop young shoots, from which you can form a new beautiful vine. It is recommended to carry out a rejuvenating haircut of honeysuckle every 5–6 years.

In addition, radical pruning is also recommended for extremely neglected bushes. If for some reason you haven’t approached the vine with pruning shears for a long time and it has become like an unkempt “beard,” simply cut out the shoots and start shaping the crown next season.

Reproduction methods

Most gardeners prefer to propagate honeysuckle honeysuckle by vegetative methods:

  • By cuttings: after flowering, several shoots are cut from the middle of the bush, cleared of leaves and cut so that each cutting has 2 internodes. The cuttings are rooted in a greenhouse, deepened to the first bud. In the spring of next year, the “youth” are transplanted into the flower garden.
  • By layering- the most convenient way of reproduction. In the spring, a flexible shoot of honeysuckle is bent to the ground, placed in a pre-dug groove, fixed and sprinkled with nutritious soil. During the summer, the cuttings are watered and fed, and in September they are separated from the mother vine and replanted.

Seed growing of vines- the process is much longer and more labor-intensive, but in some cases this method is quite justified:

  • In mid-July, seeds are removed from ripe berries, peeled from fruit pulp, washed and, after drying, stored in a paper bag at room temperature.
  • At the end of December, the seeds are mixed with wet sand (1:3) and placed in the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator for two months of stratification.
  • In March, cold-treated seeds are embedded in a moist peat-sand mixture (1:1) to a depth of 0.9–1 cm and the crops are covered with film. The emergence of seedlings takes from 1.5 to 3 months.
  • IN room conditions The seedlings are grown until next spring, and with the onset of warm weather they are planted in a permanent place. Caring for them comes down to regular watering, ventilation and fertilizing. When the plants get stronger, they are planted in separate pots. Young vines will begin to bloom in the third or fourth year.

Honeysuckle can be sown immediately in open ground, before winter. Seeds are buried 1 cm into fertile soil without subsequent watering. Having frozen thoroughly, they will sprout in spring. The grown seedlings will only have to be planted so that they do not oppress each other.

Diseases and pests

Honeysuckle honeysuckle nature has not harmed the immune system, but even this hardy vine is sometimes affected by fungal infections, such as powdery mildew, which covers the plants with a bluish coating, and rust, which can be recognized by orange-brown spots on the surface of the leaves and poisonous red spore-bearing pads with their bottom side. It is very important to identify this or that infection on early stage development in order to destroy the pathogenic flora as soon as possible, otherwise the consequences may be irreversible. powdery mildew are treated with sulfur-containing fungicides, and against rust, plantings are treated with preparations that contain copper.

An adult specimen of honeysuckle honeysuckle does not need insulation for the winter, but varietal, hybrid and recently planted plants should be carefully prepared for the cold:

  • Insulate the tree trunk circle with a thick layer of fallen leaves.
  • Remove the lashes from the support, roll them into a ring and place them on a bed of dry leaves.
  • Cover the plant spruce paws or non-woven material.

In this form, your honeysuckle will safely survive the most severe cold. Don't worry if some annual shoots freeze - you will cut them off in the spring, and the bush will quickly recover. By the way, this method winter shelter applicable to other decorative vines.

Types and varieties

Several varieties of honeysuckle honeysuckle are grown in floriculture:

  • Alba is an early flowering liana with snow-white fragrant flowers;
  • Few-flowered - a plant with elegant pink-red inflorescences, but not as numerous as the previous form;
  • Inga - collected in ears or heads delicate flowers painted in white, yellow, pink or red tones.

Quite often in botanical reference books and selling catalogs, fuchsia honeysuckle (Brown) and curly honeysuckle (German) are called honeysuckle, but this information is incorrect. The first variety is a hybrid form obtained by crossing rough honeysuckle and evergreen honeysuckle, and the second represents independent species honeysuckle family.

The best partners on the site for honeysuckle honeysuckle will be decorative conifers and beautiful flowering shrubs(weigela, holly mahonia, scumpia, deutzia, mock orange, climbing roses). If you want to confess your loyalty and constancy to someone, collect a small bouquet of fragrant flowers and present it as a gift to the object of your adoration, as medieval court ladies and gentlemen once did.

Many owners of private houses and summer cottages began to pay great attention to landscaping the garden area. There are many ways to decorate a garden, and one of them is vertical gardening. Using this method, you can divide the area into separate zones and create shadow. For this purpose, perennial and annual plants are most often used.

Hedges have also become a very popular technique in creating landscape design for a personal plot. Often used as a hedge Lately use climbing honeysuckle. One of the many types of honeysuckle will be discussed in the article.

Honeysuckle honeysuckle photo, description of the species

There are many types of honeysuckle, their total number reaches 200 varieties. Conventionally, they can be divided into three main categories:

  • trees,
  • shrubs;
  • creepers.

There are no more than 10 types of honeysuckle that are most suitable for growing in your garden. Shrub and climbing varieties are very popular in the country. Honeysuckle honeysuckle is among the most common for planting in the garden. This look can decorate any part of the territory:

Most gardeners love this plant for easy care and rapid growth. With its abundant decorative foliage and beautiful fruits, as well as its wonderful aroma, it is capable of give beauty to any area of ​​the site.

Honeysuckle belongs to liana-like plants, a type of climbing honeysuckle. It grows as a bush, which is what made it so popular. It has beautiful pale green leaves, with beautifully colored inflorescences up to 50 mm in size. The photo shows that the flowers can have different colors;

  • red-violet;
  • white;
  • yellow.

In the summer, the liana-like shrub blooms and a wonderful aroma comes from the flowers. As evening approaches, the scent of flowers intensifies. The flowers of this type of honeysuckle have far protruding stamens. They are collected in bunches of 5–6 pieces and located in lush thickets foliage. The bush has a short flowering period, about three weeks. A single flower lives for 3 days and fades. Around flowering bush There are always a lot of bees gathered, they are attracted by the aroma of honeysuckle flowers. Ripe small fruits have a bright red color.

The branches of the vine can grow up to 2 meters in one season. Its lifespan can reach 30 years. The plant is frost-resistant and even shoots damaged by frost tend to recover.

A distinctive feature of this type of honeysuckle is its leaves. They acquire a bluish-green color and remain in this form until late autumn.

Liana care

Honeysuckle honeysuckle is undemanding in care, so it is suitable for beginner gardeners. For normal development, the plant needs to have support. If it is not possible to build a support nearby, then Honeysuckle should be planted near the wall of a house or gazebo. Any vertical surface is suitable as a support. The vine needs support so that its branches can crawl upward. The height of the support will allow it to grow more and more. The garden crop usually grows to a height of 4–5 meters. The vine can reach this size 5 years after planting.

The shoots of the vine have small roots that, as they grow, can cling to a rough surface. When there is no support, the branches spread across the surface and the propagation process is solved without problems.

Honeysuckle is usually planted in the spring. To do this, young shoots with buds that are capable of producing healthy shoots during growth are selected. How well and actively the bush will grow in the future will depend on them. Liana not so much responds well to transplantation, so it’s better to decide right away permanent place for landing. The soil for planting should be loose and well moistened. A more lush shrub will be obtained if 2–3 or more buds are used per plot. The buds will give young shoots to the vine; with proper care, they will create a hedge.

If honeysuckle is planted through a hole, the shoots will soon form a bush. The method of planting in a trench will ultimately result in vertical gardening. They will create rows of honeysuckle. Plant loves well-lit places and this must be taken into account when planting. The abundance of flowers on honeysuckle will depend on the light level of the place where it grows. If you choose a shaded place, the vine will produce good and healthy shoots, but will not bloom luxuriantly.

Plant nutrition

In order for the plant to actively develop and delight the eye with its color and bright fruits, it is necessary to add fertilizer to the soil before planting. Suitable for this purpose:

Any of these components are combined with the soil for planting and honeysuckle buds are planted in the prepared soil mixture. First p the leaves after planting can be seen in late May or early June. At good care shoots can grow up to 2 meters in one year of life.

In the future, honeysuckle honeysuckle also needs periodic feeding. It responds well to nitrogen and potassium fertilizers and humus for 2–3 years. You can use vegetable fertilizer from your site. Experienced gardeners They use fertilizer that they prepare themselves. At each summer cottage there is a compost pit where all plant waste is sent. They should be periodically sprinkled with peat and after a year you can use your own peat compost.

Honeysuckle Reproduction

Honeysuckle Honeysuckle




The simplest way to propagate this type of plant is to plant seeds. To do this, seeds are selected, they are germinated and then the sprouts are planted in the ground. There is another popular method of propagation - cuttings and offshoots.

Cuttings are usually planted in spring, summer or autumn. If cuttings are done in the fall, then it is necessary to select strong shoots 10-15 cm long. They should have at least 4-5 eyes. Their planted in prepared loose soil and well-moistened. Only 1 bud remains on the surface. The planting site must be mulched with leaves.

Planting is also done in the summer, after the honeysuckle has bloomed around the end of July. To do this, select cuttings that have 2 internodes and remove the lower leaves. They are placed in a greenhouse, in a place protected from direct sun rays. The distance between cuttings is approximately 15–25 cm, with a depth of 2–3 cm. It is best to cover them with glass and remove it after new leaves appear.. The kidneys need to be moistened several times daily. For the winter they are mulched with peat, left until spring and then transplanted into open ground.

Propagation by seeds is a lengthy process if you prepare the seeds yourself. They are selected immediately after honeysuckle honeysuckle blooms at the end of July. They must be selected, thoroughly washed and dried, and stored in a dry place. In February, prepared seeds are mixed with wet sand and keep in the refrigerator for 2 months. After this they are ready for sowing into the soil. After their germination, you should monitor the soil moisture, loosen it and remove weeds. Ready seedlings are usually planted in a permanent place in autumn or early spring.

Pruning and shaping the bush

In order for the plant to decorate the garden area, it must be monitored. Correct and timely pruning will help form the honeysuckle vine. Honeysuckle cannot become a full-fledged element of landscape design without pruning.

A well-chosen support, strong and high, is of great importance. The material can be used as a support made of wood, metal or simply nylon mesh. Honeysuckle branches must be guided manually in the right direction. They grow quickly and need proper distribution to create a beautiful and well-groomed appearance.

When the honeysuckle has reached the required height, its top is cut off. Immediately after this they begin to intensively develop side shoots. In vines of this species, the lower branches usually fall off, so you should pay attention to this. To hide such a defect, you can plant another plant nearby, covering the shoots without leaves.

Almost all types of honeysuckle have beneficial features. Honeysuckle is no exception; its leaves, flowers and stems are considered medicinal. Decoctions and tinctures of them are used for the prevention and treatment of many diseases..

Thanks to such healing properties Honeysuckle should grow in every garden. A beautiful and well-groomed bush will give off its aroma during the flowering period. He will create beautiful composition V landscape design garden- a cozy corner, a vertical arch or a hedge.

There is a question in our gardens vertical gardening- one of the most mature and in demand. Vertical gardening means landscaping walls, gazebos, and small architectural forms. Quite often, in young, underdeveloped areas, the question arises of overlapping middle and long-range plans, creating shade on the site and separating individual zones in the garden, where all the plants are still very young. This is where vertical gardening techniques will save us. While the seedlings of large shrubs and trees are growing, the garden is dominated by perennial and annual flowers, and the only vertical accent - shade or decoration of the walls of a house, gazebo and other buildings - can be provided by vines. A quite interesting representative of vines used in landscaping our gardens is Honeysuckle (Lonicera caprifolium).

In the language of flowers, “honeysuckle” means “captivating dreams.” Honeysuckle flowers were very often compared to faithful, devoted love, love that knows no boundaries and limits in ancient legends. In the legend of Heloise and Abelard, honeysuckle entwined their tombstones - a kind of symbol of eternal love. And in the legend of Tristan and Isolde, Isolde is very often compared to a honeysuckle flower, just as delicate, sublime and very poetic, and in many other legends this flower is a symbol of passion, love and devotion.

In addition to the fact that honeysuckle blooms very beautifully, it also smells absolutely amazing. This is an amazing, very fresh and delicate scent, and the aroma intensifies in the evening hours. And if you want to create a corner in your garden that is not just beautiful and picturesque, but also filled with aromas, then you cannot do without honeysuckle honeysuckle.

With all its advantages, honeysuckle does not require much care. In order for this perennial vine to develop and grow vertically upward, it must be given support. This is the type of vine that will not rise up without support, and the higher the support, the higher your plant will rise. In principle, a 5 - 6 year old liana can grow to a height of 4 - 5 meters - this is a sufficient height for our small gardens.

It is better to plant honeysuckle in the spring. The liana is planted immediately in a permanent place, so that there are several buds on the division, preferably 2-3, from which long stems will grow, which are actually the liana. Planting should be done in loose, sufficiently moist soil. Honeysuckle responds very well to fertilizing with mineral and organic fertilizers. It is best to feed it with nitrogen, potassium and manure. But keep in mind that the manure should not be fresh, but rotted, i.e. 2 - 3 year olds, or you can use peat compost, which you can prepare yourself by putting all the plant waste that is found in almost every garden in compost pits. Moreover, if you prepare peat compost in advance, i.e. V compost pits If you store plant waste from the site for quite a long time and sprinkle it with peat in layers, then within a year you will have a fairly good substrate, which you will add to the planting hole when planting honeysuckle honeysuckle.

Planting is usually carried out either in a planting hole or in a planting trench, depending on what you want to achieve. If this is an element of vertical gardening for you, and you are planting whole line honeysuckle so that it covers your trellis, then it is better to make a trench-trench, and immediately put all the necessary substances in this trench for many, many years - rotted manure or peat compost, microelements, organic fertilizers. All this is thoroughly mixed with planting soil and your little trees are planted in this prepared mixture. And if you plant in the spring, fairly long young shoots will appear by the end of the season. With good care, honeysuckle can grow up to 2 meters in height over the course of a year, and sometimes more. These long vines that you attach to vertical gardening structures do not need to be removed for the winter; honeysuckle honeysuckle is quite winter-hardy. And it is absolutely not necessary to cut off the long annual vines of honeysuckle every winter. If severe winter weather is expected, it is quite enough to mulch the root zone of young plants with peat or dry leaves when planting freshly, or cover the bush with spruce branches. Moreover, this needs to be done only during the first two years after planting, and then your honeysuckle will winter well even in an upright state. When the plant begins to vegetate in the spring, i.e. The buds will begin to bloom, new young growth will begin, you will see which part of your vine is frozen and which is preserved. So, in the spring after serious winter frosts, you need to do sanitary pruning, but this is just sanitary pruning, you don’t need to cut honeysuckle onto the stump. You just need to carefully trim with pruning shears and remove those shoots on which the buds do not bloom, i.e. those that did not survive the winter. But there is one catch - honeysuckle buds bloom quite late and at the same time these buds are hidden on the shoot. You simply won’t see, like on an ordinary shrub, whether a bud has started to grow or not. So do not rush to prune honeysuckle after winter, wait for the appearance of small young buds that appear from the hidden axils of the shoot. And when you see that the overwintered bud is strong, it swells, and there is a bare shoot above it, then this shoot above the bud needs to be cut off with pruning shears.

If the vine grows in bright sun, then it produces very abundant flowering, but honeysuckle honeysuckle can also develop in partial shade. The plant itself will not suffer from this, the bush will be quite powerful, and the vine will be tall, but the flowering will no longer be abundant.

Among the many species of honeysuckle (Lonicera), there are both bushy and climbing ones - deciduous and evergreen. Climbing honeysuckles are one of the most decorative and beloved plants; they conquered Europe more than 100 years ago, but are still loved to this day. Honeysuckle vines are good as ground covers and for vertical gardening (designing arches, retaining walls and arbors; camouflaging the trunks of old trees and hedges). Climbing honeysuckles begin their growing season early and decorate the garden at any time of the year, especially during the flowering period. They bloom in late May - early June. When the long shoots of the current year are completely covered with elongated tubular flowers in spectacular inflorescences at the ends of the shoots. Liana-like honeysuckles have many advantages: numerous leaves and abundant flowering, bright and fragrant flowers (these are excellent honey plants), decorative fruits. The leaves of most types of honeysuckle are elliptical, dark green above and bluish below.
Most types of honeysuckle vines love a sunny location, but shading at the base is very favorable for them. The vines are quite shade-tolerant (however, in the shade, honeysuckle blooms begin later and are less abundant). Honeysuckle vines grow quickly, many species are undemanding to soil (but develop better in fertile, moist soil), and tolerate replanting and crown pruning well due to their high shoot-forming ability. The liana is thinned out after flowering, at the same time cutting out excess old stems. Honeysuckle growing on infertile soils is recommended to be fed with mineral fertilizers in the spring. Climbing honeysuckle propagates easily: by seeds, green cuttings, layering.
Among the honeysuckle vines in the garden, honeysuckle honeysuckle is most often grown.

Honeysuckle honeysuckle, or fragrant (L. caprifolium), species name with Latin language translated as “goat leaf” is a deciduous vine capable of rising to a height of 10 meters with the help of support. IN middle lane In Russia this is the most common of the climbing honeysuckles; it is quite frost-resistant, winters under snow (the tips of the shoots often freeze slightly). It grows naturally in the Caucasus, Central and Southern Europe. Honeysuckle is photophilous and demanding of soil fertility and moisture. The leaves are quite large, dense, leathery, elliptical or broadly elliptical, dark green above, bluish-gray below; 2-3 pairs of upper leaves grow together at their bases into an elliptical disk. They retain their color until late autumn and are among the last to fall in the garden. Flowers of a peculiar shape, with far protruding stamens, appear on honeysuckle honeysuckle at the beginning of summer, collected in bunches and placed in the axils of the upper fused leaves. The flowers are up to 5 cm long, white or yellowish inside, with a purple tint or violet-red stripes on the outside, fragrant, especially in the evening. The life of one flower lasts 3-4 days, in general, flowering lasts about three weeks. The elegant fruits (inedible for people) ripen in early August and decorate the vine until late autumn. Orange-red honeysuckle berries have a short stalk, framed green leaves they seem to glow. It blooms and bears fruit from the age of four. It develops quickly, its young shoots grow by 1.5-2 m per season. It lives up to 50 years or more.
It has two decorative forms: white (f. alba) - with white flowers, blooms 2 weeks earlier than typical; few-flowered (f. pauciflora) - with pink-red flowers, very decorative, but blooms less profusely than the typical form.
Now one cannot call this vine fashionable; it is rather traditional, and despite being loved in last years For many clematis and climbing roses, sooner or later they still find their place in the garden.

Choosing a planting site and preparing the soil
Climbing honeysuckles are photophilous, undemanding to soil, quite winter-hardy (annual shoots freeze a little in the Moscow region), and are resistant to pests and diseases. Most honeysuckles are moisture-loving(!). They prefer sandy or loamy neutral soils rich in organic matter, although they can grow on acidic peat and wet limestone. The root system of climbing honeysuckle is taprooted and densely branched. The bulk of the roots are located within a radius of 1-1.5 meters at a depth of 40-50 cm.

Propagation of climbing honeysuckle
Reproduction: seeds, cuttings and layering.
Using the vegetative method, honeysuckle is propagated by winter, spring and summer cuttings. Late autumn take strong summer shoots and divide them into pieces with 4-5 eyes, length 10-15 cm. Plant in a loosened ridge until the last eye and cover with leaves.
Green cuttings are cut at the end of flowering (early July). Each should have 2 internodes. The lower leaves are removed, the upper ones are shortened by half. The cuttings are planted in a shaded greenhouse at a distance of 20-25 cm from each other to a depth of 2-3 cm and covered with glass. The substrate is made up of peat, coarse sand and garden soil (2:2:1). Plantings are sprayed generously 2-3 times a day. With the appearance of the first young leaves (usually a month later), the glass can be removed. For the winter, the cuttings are mulched with peat, and in the spring they are transplanted to a permanent place. When planting, it is advisable to slightly deepen the root collar of the plant, which stimulates the development of adventitious roots. The rooting rate of cuttings without pre-treatment is 50%.
Propagation by seeds is a longer process. Seeds are collected at the end of July. They are cleared of pulp, washed and dried. Store at room temperature. To facilitate germination, the seeds are stratified, that is, kept for a long time in damp sand at a low temperature. To do this, in February, dry seeds are mixed with sand (1:3), moistened and stored in the refrigerator at a positive temperature for two months. They are periodically inspected and, if necessary, moistened. In April, seeds along with sand are sown in prepared ridges to a depth of 1.5-2 cm. The seeding depth is 0.9 - 1 cm. During the summer, the seedlings are watered and weeds are pulled out. In the fall or next year in the spring, the plants can already be transplanted to a permanent place. In the first years, it is advisable to mulch the bushes with peat before winter.

Planting seedlings
The best time to plant honeysuckle seedlings is early autumn. Dimensions landing pit- 60x60 cm, depth 50 cm, row distance 1.5 meters. For one pit, mix 1 bucket of peat manure compost with 50-80 g of superphosphate, 40-50 g of potassium salt. Use 2-3 year old seedlings. The root collar should be 3-5 cm above the soil surface.

Care and feeding
This wonderful vine has one significant drawback - left to its own devices, it quickly turns into a tangled, untidy lump. It’s a shame when you see a neglected, unattractive bush with a shapeless mass of greenery. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to properly care for its curly shoots from the very beginning. The first thing to start with is to make a strong and beautiful support. It can be metal, wood, a nylon net with a large mesh or cords stretched vertically or in any desired direction will do. Young shoots are directed along the support, evenly distributed over its entire area. It should be taken into account that honeysuckle honeysuckle stems twist counterclockwise. Once the shoot has reached the desired height, the top is cut off, thereby stimulating the development of lateral shoots. Loosening the soil in tree trunk circles is of great importance. This is done 4-5 times per season to a depth of 4-5 cm. Honeysuckle needs watering during the summer growing season. Climbing honeysuckles quickly become bare below. This feature must be somehow compensated for by other curly ones. Second important condition to preserve the decorative appearance of climbing honeysuckle - correct pruning. With its help, you can give and maintain the desired shape of a bush, enhance flowering, and rejuvenate an old plant. If the bush is too neglected, it is better to completely cut the stems. Then new shoots will develop from the dormant buds at the base of the plant. Neither fertilizers nor watering can replace this important operation. After formative pruning, flowering will be especially abundant. Resistant to pests and diseases.
During periods of prolonged rain, the leaves and berries of climbing honeysuckle can be affected by fungal diseases. For diseases of honeysuckle they are sprayed with copper preparations - copper oxychloride 0.15% (in spring) and other fungicides.

Choose a fragrant honeysuckle honeysuckle vine for your garden

Among the ornamental shrubs Special attention Honeysuckle honeysuckle is a fragrant vine that attracts attention. A fast-growing vine can decorate a high fence. separating the area from the road. When installing guide supports, the plant can shoot up 4-5 meters. At the same time, the whip is strewn with large and fragrant inflorescences for a month.

Basic information about the plant

Decorative climbing honeysuckle is a vine that climbs a support, following the designer’s plan. In nature, this plant is found in southern and central Europe and the Caucasus. The name of the species “honeysop” translates as “goat leaf”. We can determine that we have honeysuckle honeysuckle by the following signs:

  • shoots are light green, pink-red from the sun;
  • the leaves are collected in ellipse-shaped plates;
  • flowers on long tubes are collected in a bouquet;
  • the aroma of flowers is spicy;
  • The orange berries are inedible.

A bare young shoot can use a skeletal branch of a bush in search of support, and then a sloppy green lump is formed. Therefore, it is so important to shape the plant from the first days of its development. The leaves are very dense and elliptical in shape. The pairs grow together into a disk, and a flower panicle develops in the middle of it.

Rising above the ellipse on tall tubes, flowers with protruding stamens and pistils emit a strong, pleasant aroma. The flowers themselves are very unusual and decorative. During the period of abundant flowering, decorative honeysuckle honeysuckle is an excellent honey plant. Flowering lasts about a month, resulting in inedible berries. orange color.

Currently, this type of vine is not cultivated only in northern regions with a sharply continental climate. The reason is that the southern plant freezes out during the winter.

Agrotechnology of decorative climbing honeysuckle

To get a fast growing shoot with abundant flowering you need to create a bush optimal conditions for development. To do this, the vine must be planted in a sunny place with a low standing position. groundwater. The soil should be light, based on humus, garden turf soil and sand. The reaction must be neutral or slightly alkaline.

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Honeysuckle likes moderate watering and responds well to spring feeding humus. During the summer, it will gratefully accept irrigating watering of greenery during drought and 2-3 fertilizing with full mineral fertilizer or mullein infusion until mid-July; later feeding should not be done so as not to disturb winter hardiness. The soil under the bush should be loosened and mulched.

Decorative honeysuckle Honeysuckle responds well to crown-forming pruning, which is carried out in the spring until the first living buds. Dry branches should also be cut out. And slightly peeling bark on an old vine is a generic sign.

Diseases and pests of the decorative honeysuckle honeysuckle destroy the beauty of the green fence, so in order to prevent pests and diseases from entering your green fence, you must follow some rules that apply to other plants:

  1. The predominance of phosphorus and potassium in the diet makes the plant sap unattractive to aphids and other leaf-eating insects and larvae. For this purpose in tree trunk circle dissipate superphosphate. ash, lime.
  2. Wintering pests can be destroyed if the bushes are sprayed with a 5% urea solution before leaf fall.
  3. Use biological preparations Bitoxibacillin, Lepocid and the like for spraying, bacteria from which invade insects and destroy them from the inside.

Prevention is always better than controlling infested insect pests.

Ornamental plants are attractive only when the crown is well formed and the leaves are not damaged by diseases and pests.

Breeding honeysuckle honeysuckle

Anyone who has seen how honeysuckle grows will inevitably want to have this vine in their possession. Honeysuckle honeysuckle can be propagated in several ways:

Honeysuckle honeysuckle can be propagated only with fresh seeds of the second year. The collected fruits should be freed from pulp, washed and dried. Before spring sowing, seeds must undergo stratification. Seeds for seedlings are sown in the spring, and in the summer the grown seedlings are placed in a permanent place.

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For cuttings planting material harvested in August. Cuttings with three internodes are rooted in the fall in a special nursery with a sand-peat mixture. In spring, the rooted plant is planted in a permanent place.

The easiest way to propagate honeysuckle honeysuckle is by rooting cuttings, which are cut and dug into the ground on a vine that continues to grow. At the site of the cut, roots are formed, the branch is separated from the vine and planted in a permanent place.

Honeysuckle honeysuckle does not tolerate multiple transplants. When the first roots appear, it is necessary to provide the plant with a permanent place of residence.

Planting and caring for climbing honeysuckle

In advance, at a place determined for the composition, single holes 60 cm deep or a trench are dug, which is filled with fertile soil with a large amount of compost or last year’s manure. It is necessary to apply mineral fertilizers. Don't forget about the ashes so that mineral fertilizers did not deoxidize the soil.

The best time to plant and care climbing honeysuckle is April - May. In a year the plant will rise 2 meters. But in the first two years, the vines need to be removed from their supports for the winter and protected from freezing. During the entire period of growth, the vine requires tending pruning and crown formation.

Honeysuckle vines are great and can make any garden or yard look better. They are known for their vigorous growth. Honeysuckle is also thermotransferable and very hardy, so it is good choice for gardeners who live in harsh climates or those who want to grow low-enrichment plants.

About varieties and varieties of honeysuckle

Another good thing about them is that their beautiful, fragrant flowers will attract butterflies and bees, making your garden look much better. In the fall, the fruit of this vine will be a good treat for local birds.

Most of the time, people choose to grow their honeysuckle along a trellis, arbor, fence or other supporting structure. However, keep in mind that these vines can be grown even without fences. You can also use them to control erosion!

These vines bloom in spring and summer, so they look very beautiful in your garden.

Honeysuckles are a wonderful addition to the landscape as they attract many birds and butterflies and are fragrant to boot. The most common types:

Cape Honeysuckle

Cape Honeysuckle, from the Bignonia family. It is an evergreen vine that attracts birds and butterflies. It has sixteen centimeter leaves and reddish scarlet flowers in the autumn and winter season. Cape honeysuckle can be pruned to a shrub form, in which case it will reach no more than 300 centimeters in height. As a vine, it can grow up to 7.5 meters. Plant it in full sun in well-drained soil.

Coral honeysuckle

Coral honeysuckle is an easy-to-grow vine that attracts songbirds, hummingbirds and butterflies. Coral honeysuckle has 3 to 7 centimeters long smooth leaves and 5 centimeter long tubular flowers in red or orange (one variety has yellow flowers). It can be planted in a sunny or partially shaded area.

Winter honeysuckle

Winter honeysuckle is a fragrant shrub that grows from 185 to 250 centimeters in height. The leaves are evergreen in the southern parts of the country and deciduous in the north. The white flowers are 1.5 centimeters long. Plant winter honeysuckle in a partly shaded or fully sunny location in well-drained soil.

Japanese honeysuckle

Japanese honeysuckle is a fast-growing vine that is drought tolerant and attractive to butterflies and hummingbirds. This woody vine can grow up to 915 centimeters in length with elliptical leaves ranging from 5 to 7 centimeters in length. The flowers are tubular, 1.5 centimeters long, white and yellow in color. The fruits of this plant are bluish-black berries. The Japanese honeysuckle plant is planted in a fully sunny or partially shaded location.

Features of planting honeysuckle

It is best to plant honeysuckle in early spring. Wait until the danger of frost has passed and plant them in your garden. The sooner the frost passes, the better. When planting, be sure to prepare the soil in the same way you would prepare it for any other perennial plant.

When planting vines, make sure the plants are spaced 15 to 30 centimeters away from any supporting structures. It's best to plant your vines 60cm apart if you want to use them as ground cover plants.

Once they are planted, they need to be watered thoroughly. Keep watering until the vines show signs of growth. It is also very beneficial to mulch your vines with heavy leaf cover. This will protect their roots from freezing and will help retain moisture in the summer.

Honeysuckle honeysuckle care

Here are some basic precautions you should provide to your honeysuckle:

  • You'll likely find vines sold in containers in early spring. You can then transplant them into your garden. This may be the easiest way to grow your own honeysuckle;
  • These vines prefer full sun. However, they can tolerate shade or even near-total shade, so there are many places where you can grow them;
  • These plants should never be overwatered. Once they are planted, they will only require moderate watering. The only exception is dry, very hot summers;
  • Once your vines are planted and established, they need a little annual fertilizer. It is best to use a 10-10-10 fertilizer early in the growing season and once halfway through their flowering season.

If you want to grow honeysuckle on an arbor or trellis, it is important to prepare a support system in advance. Installing a trellis or other support when the vine is already grown can seriously damage the plant, so you should avoid it at all costs. To prevent this problem, be sure to place the trellis, arbor, or other support system you want to use before you plant your vine.

Once the support system is in place, plant your vine about 15 to 30 centimeters from the support. This should provide enough space for proper growth.

Once they grow enough to reach the trellis (or whatever support system you use), be sure to tie the vines down correctly. You must do this using strong, flexible materials that will hold the vine properly.

When tying the vines to the support system, loop each one over the figure eight and make sure to cross the part between the rod and the support system. This will prevent the stem from becoming abraded or smothered.

How and with what to fertilize and feed?

Grow honeysuckle in areas with well-drained soils and full sunlight to promote healthy growth. A healthy growing environment reduces the need for regular supplemental fertilizer, and well-drained soils allow fertilizer to penetrate the soil and easily reach the roots.

Apply a general fertilizer around the base of the vine in early spring to encourage new growth. Standard garden mixes in granular or liquid formulas work well and provide the nutrients needed to stimulate vine growth.

Cover the fertilizer with a 2-inch layer of organic mulch, such as compost or pine bark. A layer of mulch helps maintain soil moisture and holds fertilizer in place so the plant can use it during the growing season. In addition, mulch helps prevent weed growth and the use of fertilizer intended for your honeysuckle.

Water thoroughly after applying fertilizer to help transport fertilizer through the soil to the roots. Honeysuckle especially needs water during periods of drought during the growing season to facilitate fertilizer uptake and healthy growth.

Propagation of fragrant honeysuckle

You can spread the vines in a simple way, called bundle. In early spring when the shoot is flexible, you can select a flexible rod and bend it with the ground (soil), forming U shape using the stem you want to select. Then we cover the base of the U-shape with soil and push the sides out of the ground, after which we place a stick next to the U-shape so that it looks like UI. We tie them together until the outer part blooms in late spring, then we can cut off the part that attaches to the stem. Now you have another honeysuckle.

Diseases and pests of honeysuckle honeysuckle

The leaves are yellow and curly - these are aphids!

The aphid is not much larger than the head of a pin. They feed on the vines in the spring when tender new shoots emerge. They suck plant sap, which causes the leaves to curl, wrinkle and turn yellow. Infected stems die, creating clumps of dead branches. If left unchecked, plant growth slows and stops. Check curled leaves for pests. If you find only small clumps, vigorously spray the undersides of the leaves with water. Do this 3 times a day. Aphids are easier to control with insecticidal soap. Spray the plants every 2-3 days until the insects disappear. IN as a last resort, pyrethrum spray.

Young leaves discolor and fall off - fungus!

This fungal disease attacks new honeysuckle leaves, causing them to curl violently and turn brown or black and then fall off prematurely. Remove and destroy infected plant parts and spray the vines every 7 to 10 days with a copper-based fungicide.

Swollen bumps on the stems are fungi or bacteria!

Swollen, discolored areas on the stems of honeysuckle plants are cankers caused by fungi or bacteria that have infected soft cloth under the bark. They usually split, exposing the underlying tissue and bleeding purulent substances. The disease is transmitted by rainwater, contaminated tools or by handling plants, and is usually established through wounds. Remove and destroy infected stems, cutting them a few centimeters away from the rotting area. If the plant is very sick, remove it completely. Disinfect pruning tools with alcohol after using them on preserved plants.

Leaves covered with white powder - fluffy mold!

Powdery molds are caused by fungi that produce a characteristic powdery white coating on leaves and flowers. Powdery mold can occur in hot, dry weather or conditions high humidity. Infected leaves become discolored, distorted, and then fall off. Spray diseased plants with thoroughly dampened sulfur once or twice every week until symptoms subside.

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