Houseplants begonia care and propagation. Optimal air humidity. How to care for begonia

Caring for begonias will not be difficult even for a novice gardener. Give her just a little attention and she will delight you with her beauty.

Begonia. Types and varieties

Begonia was discovered by the French botanist Charles Plumier, who took part in a scientific expedition organized by Michel Begon in 1687 in the Antilles. This plant got its name in honor of Begon.

There are now more than 2,000 species of begonias. All types of begonia are divided into 3 groups:
— tuberous begonia (reproduced by tubers);
- leaf begonia (has a thickened root, which is used for propagation);
- bush begonia (reproduced by apical shoots and seeds).

Begonia is also divided into subshrubs, shrubs and herbaceous plants. Most often used for growing at home hybrid varieties, which in turn are divided into decorative flowering and decorative deciduous.

The most popular species among gardeners are tuberous, decorative-flowering begonias. They have beautiful, large flowers of various shades: from white, pink to red. Most types of begonias bloom all summer, but if favorable conditions are created for them, they can delight you with their beautiful flowers in autumn and even winter.

Indoor begonia, home care

Indoor begonia is the most unpretentious plant and resistant to various diseases. indoor plants. Caring for it at home will not cause much trouble, but still, it must be done competently so that your indoor plant develops correctly and has a beautiful, well-groomed appearance.

The begonia flower is a heat-loving plant, and the temperature for it must be maintained within +15+20°C, and in winter time— not lower than +15°С. But you should not place it near batteries and electric heaters.

The lighting should be bright, but without bright sunlight, so in the summer the flower should be shaded.

Watering and spraying

In spring and summer, begonias require abundant watering, but the plant should not be flooded, as it does not like stagnant water. In winter, the flower should be watered sparingly. When watering, it is necessary to avoid getting water on the leaves of the begonia, otherwise brown spots will form on them. Soft, settled water should be used.

To properly care for begonia, high humidity air is required, but it is not recommended to spray the plant. The best option is to place pots of begonias on a tray with wet peat or moss.

Begonia, propagation at home

Begonia can be propagated at home, depending on the species, by leaf or tuberous cuttings.

Reproduction of tuberous begonia must be done as follows. In the fall, you need to remove the tubers, clean them from the ground, cut off the stems and store them in sand (peat), at a temperature of +8 +10 ° C. In February, the tubers are planted in moist soil.

Watering should be done moderately. It will take several weeks for the sprouts to germinate. As soon as shoots appear, the tubers should be cut into pieces, treated with charcoal and dried.

Plant the separated tubers in small boxes, deepening the tubers only halfway. After 20-25 days, you can plant them in pots with a mixture of peat and leaf humus and place them in a bright place. During active growth Young begonias should be fed with organic fertilizers.

Leaf cuttings are best done in the spring. To propagate by leaf cuttings, it is necessary to cut off a leaf at the very base of the begonia stem, at least 5 cm long. Bury the cuttings into the prepared soil carefully so that the leaf does not come into contact with the soil, which must be well moistened after planting.

If you use a stem cutting rather than a leaf cutting for planting, then its length should be more than 7 cm. The cuttings must be planted as quickly as possible so that the cut does not have time to dry out.

Begonia transplant

Begonia transplantation is needed annually, it is better to do it in early spring. If you replant less frequently, the leaves of a begonia in a cramped pot begin to turn pale and lose their decorative effect.

To replant, you must first select a pot. When using a plastic pot, you will need to put a layer of expanded clay on the bottom, which absorbs excess moisture well. And sprinkle shells or coarse sand on top of the expanded clay to make the pot more stable.

You can also use a ceramic pot, which does not allow waterlogging and allows air to pass through well. But here you need to take into account that over time the roots will occupy all the space inside the pot and begin to grow to its walls. When transplanting from such a pot, the roots will be severely damaged.

When replanting, the soil should not be damp or too dry. The plant should be carefully removed from the pot, the soil should be removed and placed for 10-15 minutes in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Then carefully examine the roots, cutting off small tangled or large rotten roots and sprinkle the cut areas with charcoal.

The soil for begonias should be nutritious and slightly acidic. It is better for begonias to use a mixture of peat, leaf and turf soil, and you can add a little pine soil and coarse sand. It is advisable to prune the plant after replanting so that it recovers and grows faster. The transplanted plant needs to be sprayed daily and watered as soon as it begins to dry out. upper layer land. It is also recommended to keep the begonia in the shade for several days.

Growing begonia from seeds

It is best to start growing begonia from seeds in early January. To do this, you can use boxes with a sifted mixture of peat, leaf soil and sand. Moisten the soil for disinfection with a 0.1% solution of potassium permanganate. It is better to keep the crops under glass and evenly moisten them with heated water.

Such boxes with plants should be kept on the windowsill so that the plants have enough sunlight. When shoots appear after 2 weeks, the glass is removed. Plants should be picked at the stage of appearance of 2-3 leaves. A month later, carry out a second pick. At the beginning of May, young plants will need to be planted in separate pots.

Features of home care for begonia

From spring to mid-autumn it is necessary to feed begonia with liquid complex fertilizers for ornamental plants.

After the plant has flowered, it should be dried without cutting the roots and stems by placing it in a dark place. Within a month, all nutrients found in the stems and roots will enter the tuber. You need to dig up the resulting tuber about two weeks after the above-ground part of the plant has completely died off.

In winter, the tubers are placed in boxes with sand. The temperature in the room where the tubers are stored should not exceed +15°C. To prevent the tubers from drying out, they should be watered periodically.

Indoor begonia and its diseases

Why doesn't begonia bloom?

If the begonia does not bloom, then the reason for this may be that it was transplanted into a pot that is too spacious. Therefore, when replanting, it is important to take into account that the new pot in diameter should be no more than 2 cm wider than the old one. In order for begonia to bloom more luxuriantly, faded flowers should be carefully removed, as they interfere with the development of new buds. Flowering plant should be fed regularly.

Why do begonia leaves dry out?

If there is insufficient soil or air moisture, begonia leaves begin to dry, and flowers and buds begin to fall off. There is an urgent need to establish an irrigation system. If the leaves become pale or yellow, this indicates a lack of light for the flower. The appearance of brown edges on the leaves indicates dry air or exposure of the begonia to sunlight.

Overwatering the plant can cause gray rot, in this case, light mold appears on the leaves. The affected parts must be removed, and the plant itself must be treated with a fungicide.

In the presence of drafts, dry air or temperature changes, a white coating may form on the leaves - powdery mildew. In this case, the plant should be treated with ground sulfur or sprayed with a 1% solution of colloidal sulfur.

Of the pests, begonia is most often attacked spider mite or aphids. They should be combated by spraying the underside of the leaf with soapy solutions of tobacco. Or you can treat the begonia with preparations containing pyrethrum or an insecticide.

What to look for when buying begonias

When purchasing a begonia, it should be carefully examined so as not to purchase a plant with a “bouquet” of diseases or pests. Pay attention to the healthy and bright color of the leaves, their normal turgor, the absence of plaque and dry spots.

Begonia is a plant that belongs to the Begonieceae family and decorates public gardens, parks and apartments. There are about 900 full-fledged species of this plant in the world. The homeland of begonias is Southeast Asia. The size of the plant can be from 5 cm to 3 m in length.

In this article you will learn some secrets of caring for beautiful flowering begonias at home.

Favorable conditions for growing home begonia

Begonias are easy to care for and disease resistant, but the question of how to grow begonias is a very common one. You need to remember three rules for caring for a plant: replanting, timely feeding and moderate watering. This will be discussed in the following sections.

Did you know?The plant was named after the governor of Haiti - M. Begon.

Lighting

To make begonia happy abundant flowering, you need to provide the plant with good lighting, preferably diffused. Make sure that the begonia leaves are not exposed to direct sunlight - this will cause burns on them. If you do not have the opportunity to grow begonia on a windowsill, you can use phytolamps. It is more effective to use two phytolamps.

Temperature

At room temperature Begonia feels great. If the temperature drops below 16°C or exceeds 28°C, the leaves and flowers wither and fall off.

Air humidity

Begonia needs high air humidity - about 60%. In winter, additional air humidification is required. This can be achieved by spraying. Tuberous begonias thrive in dry, cool conditions. They do not need high humidity. Shrub species are tolerant of dry air in winter, but it doesn’t hurt to spray them either.

Features of caring for begonia during the flowering period

Many people wonder what to feed begonias for abundant flowering.

During flowering, begonia needs to be fed at least once a week. To do this use mineral fertilizers, but before that it is best to add a weak solution of potassium nitrate.

Important! If you want to prolong flowering, trim off faded flowers as often as possible.

After the begonia has finished flowering, prepare the plant for the resting phase. To do this, reduce the amount of watering until the above-ground part dries out. Trim off faded leaves, stems, shoots and flowers. The temperature should not be higher than 12°C. The dormant period lasts from November to March.

Proper pruning of begonias

In this section we will explain to you , how to properly prune begonia after flowering so that your plant grows and looks young and healthy. When the stem length is 6-8 cm, the first pruning is carried out. After this, watering is briefly reduced. When lateral processes reach 10-12 cm, pinching is carried out. After this, remove dry shoots and leaves. They can lead to various diseases.

Important! For speedy healing, the cut sites are treated with charcoal.

Pruning is done with a sharp knife, as scissors can injure the begonia. All these procedures are performed for several purposes. First of all, this is necessary for the formation of the crown of a young plant. Pinching improves the flowering of the plant. Trimming supports decorative look bush. Pruning and pinching should be done annually, as this also helps to rejuvenate the begonia.

Important! If you do not prune the plant in a timely manner, the begonia's leaves will decrease in size and the flowering time will be shortened.

Basics of proper transplantation

Repotting is an important process in growing begonias, and in this section we will learn when to repot begonias and how to do it.

The frequency of this operation depends on the type of begonia. Tuberous varieties should be replanted annually, changing the soil and pot as the roots grow.

Transplantation is carried out in early spring. The plant is pulled out of the pot and the roots are cleared of old soil. Then the plant is placed in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. If necessary, you can trim the roots. Place some sand and stones at the bottom of the pot. The plant is covered with new soil, leaving a little space on top (2-3 cm). After a few weeks, the soil is filled to the top. Begonia needs abundant watering throughout the month.

Features of caring for begonia in winter

In our climatic conditions, a reasonable question would be how to organize proper care for begonia in winter.

In winter, begonia needs sunlight. To do this, place the pot with the plant on the windowsill in the sun for several hours. Watering should be moderate, but the soil should be constantly moist.

Important! Do not overwater the plant, as this will cause the roots to rot.

In winter, the plant slows down in growth and requires rest. In this case, fertilizing and replanting should be postponed until spring.

Reproduction of begonias at home

Now it's time to talk about how to propagate begonia at home. The plant can be propagated using leaf cuttings, stems and dividing the bush.

Leaf cuttings

This method is used specifically in indoor floriculture. Cuttings are parts of a plant that are used in vegetative propagation. This reproduction can be done using root, stem and leaf cuttings.

Reproduction can be done in several ways:a whole leaf with a petiole, a whole leaf without a petiole, and part of a leaf blade.

Propagation by a whole leaf with a petiole is suitable for some types of begonia. The length of the petiole depends on the rooting environment of the cutting. If you root in water, the petiole should be 3-4 cm long, if in the ground - 1-1.5 cm.

Propagation by a whole leaf without a petiole is suitable for the Rex begonia species. To do this, cuts are made on the thick veins of the begonia leaf and placed horizontally on the ground with the underside. After this, the leaves are pinned down, and after some time new shoots form in the cut areas, which can be grown.

Did you know? Begonia began to be used for decorative purposes in 1890.

Propagation by part of the leaf blade is suitable for royal begonia and Mason begonia. A part of the leaf at the base, 4-5 cm wide, is cut off from the plant. Plant vertically 1-1.5 cm deep and install small supports. In this case, the begonia leaf should not come into contact with the ground.

To obtain a full-fledged shoot from a leaf cutting, you need to maintain favorable conditions for rooting. The leaf must be plucked from a healthy plant. Old leaves are not suitable, as they are not capable of regeneration and quickly wither. Special requirements for caring for cuttings are humidity, lighting and temperature. While the cuttings do not have roots, they will not be able to absorb water, so it is necessary to reduce the evaporation process.

Lighting should be diffused, as direct rays cause overheating and burns. Optimal temperature– 20-25°С.

A soilless substrate is used as soil. To do this, sand and peat are mixed in equal parts. Peat prevents the development of pathogenic fungi. Pure Vermiculite may also be suitable. It not only absorbs excess moisture, but also gives it back to the plant as needed.

Did you know? The smell of begonia flowers helps cleanse the bronchi and is also an excellent natural filter for people with nicotine addiction.

Many florists are wondering how to fertilize begonia after propagation. Our answer is that the plant should not be fertilized at all at first.

This method of reproduction should not be used chemicals, since they do not give the expected effect in the form of rapid root formation, and this can also inhibit the emergence of new shoots.

Stems

Reproduction stem cuttings is the simplest way. You can use green cuttings for this.

Begonia- a very beautiful ornamental plant, distinguished not only by large bright flowers, similar to roses, but also by unusual leaves with a velvety surface, with an intricate pattern, and variegated colors. These luxurious flowers have gained wide popularity among both our gardeners and amateurs. indoor species plants. You can often find in the description such terms as beautifully flowering and decorative foliage species of begonia, although these definitions are very conditional, since among the varieties there are luxurious plants with large beautiful flowers and gorgeous large leaves of bright color with an unusual pattern. TO today Breeders have bred thousands of species, subspecies and varieties of begonias both for decorating gardens and for growing at home.

Some of the most popular species among inexperienced beginner gardeners include hybrids of royal begonia and tuberous begonia, which are not too demanding in home care and relate to unpretentious plants. Below you will find detailed information about how to properly organize the care of these indoor plants at home.

In addition to the popular types of royal (rex) and tuberous geraniums, experts distinguish the following groups in the classification of these domestic plants: decorative deciduous, ampelous, bush, ever-flowering, thick-stemmed.
If you consider yourself a beginner gardener and are planning to start growing begonia at home, then we advise you to pay attention to tuberous begonia, caring for which does not take much time and is quite simple. Planting a shoot of tuberous begonia or a small tuber with small sprouts in a substrate for growing an adult plant does not present any difficulties, so it is not at all necessary to buy an already rooted mature flower. We will tell you how to properly plant a begonia cutting or tuber, how to then care for the rooted plant, and how to fight diseases and pests.

During the flowering period of tuberous begonia, you will enjoy amazingly beautiful flowers with double petals. Color palette of flowers of this species domestic begonia is very diverse and among the varieties of this indoor plant you will definitely find one suitable for decorating the interior of your room. By the way, flowering begonias look very advantageous against the background of such indoor plants with an unusual shape, such as Ficus Benjamin in the form of a tree (very similar to topiary) or Dracaena Marginata with elongated palm-shaped leaves, and also form an interesting composition with plants from the Crassulaceae family, such as Kalanchoe flowering or tree-like Crassula (Money Tree). Some indoor plant lovers grow unpretentious home begonias in hanging pots or in wicker flower pots, which is an interesting find for modern phytodesign. In addition to tuberous or royal begonia for the formation flower arrangement in phytodesign, we can recommend such domestic species as Begonia foliosa, Begonia luxurians Scheidw, Begonia conchaifolia, Begonia masoniana Irmsch. You can create a gorgeous composition using only begonias, distinguishing plants by the color and shape of the leaves, as well as the color scheme of the flowers.

♦ WHAT IS IMPORTANT!

Location and lighting.

It is advisable to place home begonia on a floor flower stand on the east side or on the southwest side - closer to the window. If possible, then in winter it is advisable to move the plant to windows on the south side. To prevent begonia leaves from getting burned by direct sunlight in hot summers, it is necessary to darken them a little. window glass film or parchment paper so that diffused sunlight falls on the plant. It is worth noting that, unlike bush and hanging species, royal and tuberous varieties of begonia are less demanding of constant sunlight.

Temperature conditions.

Begonia will feel comfortable at a temperature of 19-25°C in the summer (the most best option- 20-23°C). In the autumn-winter season, a room temperature of 17-23°C will allow the plant to remain healthy and hardy. However, do not allow the temperature to drop below 14°C for an extended period of time.

Air humidity.

Begonia loves high humidity (over 60%), but the plant tolerates moderate humidity levels (50-60%). The main problem is regulating humidity levels during the heating season. If there is dry air in the room where the begonia is placed, we recommend taking the following actions: pour expanded clay into a wide tray, place the pot there on a stand and regularly moisten the expanded clay; you can also place the pot in a flowerpot with gravel at the bottom (which also needs to be moistened); If possible, install a humidifier next to the plant. It is not advisable to spray begonia, as then unsightly spots appear on the leaves. Brown(but you can spray water from a spray bottle next to the plant without getting on it).

Watering.

To water the plant, use soft water that has been standing for several days. In summer, water the begonia abundantly, and pour out all the water flowing through the drainage from the pan. The frequency of watering is simply regulated: periodically check the dryness of the soil - if the soil mixture has dried a couple of centimeters deep, then it’s time for the next watering. It should be noted that tuberous geranium does not need watering in winter, since at this time the period of active growth ends and the plant goes into hibernation. In winter, it is recommended to place tuberous species in peat.

Earth mixture and fertilizing.

You can prepare the substrate for growing home begonia yourself. To do this, pour a little coarse sand into the bottom of the flower pot, then fill it halfway with leaf soil, and then a mixture of chernozem and peat (1:1). A commercial soil mixture is also quite suitable for begonias.

If your begonia blooms in winter, then you can feed the plant during the entire flowering period with phosphorus fertilizers no more than once every two weeks. In the spring and summer, you should feed your indoor plant with a weak solution of mineral fertilizers once every 8-10 days. Decorative deciduous species of domestic begonia are not fed at all from October to March.

Transfer.

Begonia is replanted only if the root system has grown greatly, filling almost the entire pot. The best time for transplantation is mid-spring. Very carefully you need to remove the flower from the pot, clean the roots and place the plant in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for 20 minutes. After this, use a sharp knife to cut off the rotten roots and treat the cut areas with crushed charcoal. We plant the begonia in a larger pot with prepared soil mixture. Begonia takes root in a new pot in about 4-5 weeks (tuberous or royal begonia takes 2-3 weeks faster). During this period, the plant should be watered frequently and placed away from direct sunlight.

Trimming.

Pruning should be done with a sharp knife immediately above the shoot, directed towards the outer side or immediately above the bud. Until the beginning of the growth period, the frequency of watering after pruning begonias should be reduced. Bush types of begonias are pruned quite strongly, as they stretch well and grow actively. Pruning of thick-trunked species is performed in rare cases in order to give the plant the desired shape. You can shorten the top of ampelous species to stimulate branching of lateral shoots. Tuberous domestic begonias and royal (Rex) hybrids do not need pruning.

Bloom.

Many types of begonia are famous for their abundant flowering and delight the eye with beautiful flowers of the most different shades. For example, the luxurious tuberous begonia variety "Everest" is famous for its large flowers, reaching a diameter of 30 cm. Typically, the flowering period of begonia begins in summer and ends late autumn. Some species bloom in winter and even throughout the year!

Reproduction.

Cuttings. Many types of domestic begonia reproduce well using cuttings. Typically, a shoot 8-10 cm long with several leaves is cut off in early spring, the cut site is treated with crushed charcoal and planted in a container with an earth mixture (peat and river sand in a 1:1 ratio). You need to water the cuttings occasionally and very carefully, as the roots can rot from excess moisture.
Tubers. The best option for propagating tuberous begonias. Before planting, the begonia tuber is divided into parts with a sharp knife and the cut areas are sprinkled with charcoal. The tuber must be cut so that each individual part has several buds for shoot growth. After this, parts of the tuber are planted in the prepared soil mixture and very occasionally watered with soft water.
Seeds. Growing begonias from seeds is quite painstaking work, requiring professional skills and experience. This is usually done by breeders who need to preserve and consolidate the varietal characteristics of a particular type of begonia.

♦ COMMON DISEASES:

Ring spot.
Signs: first, concentric lines of light green color appear on the leaves, which over time turn into necrosis - bronze formations. What to do: as a rule, indoor plants (tuberous, decorative foliage, hybrid royal begonia species) are infected by juice-sucking pests (thrips, aphids and other carriers of tomato virus). Therefore, first of all, you need to get rid of pests on your plants. Begonias affected by ring spot should be destroyed.

Bacterial spotting.
Signs: Watery spots appear on the underside of the begonia leaf blade, which turn into glassy translucent formations.
What to do: destroy the affected plant, and the remaining specimens should be sprayed with a 5% suspension of copper oxychloride once every two weeks to prevent the disease.

Gray rot.
Signs: Watery spots with a grayish coating appear on the leaves, apical shoots and flowers of an ornamental plant, and then they turn into weeping formations caused by the botrytis fungus. Mucus may appear on the inflorescences, the leaves curl and noticeably darken, and the stems become brittle.
What to do: spray the entire plant with a solution laundry soap(20 g) s copper sulfate(2-3 g) in 1 liter of soft water. If the procedure does not help, then you need to spray the begonia with a 1% solution of foundationazole.

♦ COMMON PESTS:

Aphid.
Signs: the tips of the shoots are deformed, the leaves curl, and honeydew (sticky discharge) appears.
What to do: treat the entire plant with a solution of laundry soap, covering the soil with a waterproof film.

Shield.
Signs: pale or light brown, raised, oblong spots that can be easily scraped off the leaf blade with a fingernail. Can be found on the underside of the leaf along the veins.
What to do: treat the plant with an insecticide (Aktara or Aktellik).

Spider mite.
Signs: on the underside of the leaf you can find a thin web that entangles different areas leaf plate.
What to do: if the cobwebs are small enough, then you can simply treat the plant with a soapy solution, and the next day wash it under warm shower. In case of severe damage, it is advisable to treat the begonia with an insecticide.

♦ 5 USEFUL TIPS:

in hot summer time, watering home begonia during the day is dangerous, as the procedure can lead to burns on the leaves and weakening of the root system (when water gets into the soil heated by the sun). The best option for the summer period - water the plant warm water(room temperature) early morning;

If the begonia is still very young, then for strengthening and normal development, you can spray the shoots with epin or zircon;

During heating season ventilate the room often and regularly humidify the air;

Try to water the blooming begonia very carefully so as not to get water on the buds and flowers. This can cause the plant's flowers to darken and fall off.

♦ ANSWERS TO FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS FOR BEGINNING FLOWER GROWERS:

Question: Why did the leaves of the tuberous begonia begin to turn yellow and fall off?
Answer: The most common reasons are unbalanced watering (taking into account the current season), as well as constant dry air. Sometimes begonia leaves fall off due to the activity of insect pests sucking the juice from the leaves.

Question: Why does an adult indoor begonia (there are already more than 6 knees on the shoot) still not bloom?
Answer: Most likely, you add fertilizer too often or the fertilizer composition is not quite correct. During the flowering period, the N:P:K ratio should be 1:1:1. More possible reasons delays in the flowering period - constant drafts, too low (or very high) room temperature, constantly dry air.

Question: Why did non-double flowers of the usual shape begin to appear on my double begonia?
Answer: This is normal. The fact is that at different times on double begonias, female pistillate flowers of a regular shape and male staminate flowers appear - double. After some time, your begonia will bloom with double flowers. By the way, you can remove female pistillate flowers so that the “double flowering” is abundant.

♦ DOMESTIC BEGONIA. PHOTOS OF SPECIES, NAMES:

♦ VIDEO. HOW TO CARE FOR BEGONIA AT HOME:

Tuberous begonia - planting a tuber in prepared soil.

Flower growers always place special hopes on begonia. They expect extravaganzas of flowering, well-developed bushes, and beautiful decorative leaves. For this reason, tubers are carefully stored until spring, seedlings are grown, and they are carefully looked after.

Conditions for home growing

Illumination

Begonias are photophilous, but do not tolerate direct sunlight. In summer, for begonias, you should choose well-lit places, but away from direct sunlight. They will feel best on east or west windows. On southern windowsills, these plants must be shaded during the midday hours to avoid burns on the leaves.

In winter, on the contrary, it is necessary to provide them with maximum light and place them in sunny places in the morning. With strong shading, plants stretch out their shoots and produce few flowers. In winter, for those who bloom at this time, hybrids Lorraine and Elatior There is little natural light; it is advisable to provide them with additional lighting.

Humidity

Begonias prefer high air humidity, since in the wild these flowers grow in tropical forests; when cultivated, they also require high air humidity of 60-70%. You can increase it at home by spraying. The air around the plants should be humidified, but not the leaves themselves. These plants need to be sprayed very carefully using the smallest spray nozzle - drops of water leave unsightly spots on the leaves. It is better to place these plants on trays with damp expanded clay, in a group of plants, or use a humidifier.

If the begonia is kept too dry, the tips of the leaves dry out, the buds fall off, and the plants lose their decorative properties. Also, do not place them near central heating radiators.

Temperature

Begonias are thermophilic, do not tolerate negative temperatures. They cannot be grown on cold windowsills. It is important to maintain temperature balance: in summer the room should be between 20-24°C, in winter – 16-18°C, but not lower than 15°C.

The soil

Light, slightly acidic soil with good air and water permeability is suitable for plants. The soil mixture is prepared from 2–3 parts of humus soil, 1 part of high-moor peat, which has an acidic reaction, and 1 part of coarse sand.

Care

Watering

Begonia does not tolerate too wet soil. Overmoistening is especially dangerous for tender seedlings; plants “suffocate” from lack of air and may die from root rot. The substrate should be moist, but not wet. Watering should be avoided cold water, below 12°C, so that the roots do not die off. During the flowering period, begonias should not experience a lack of moisture, otherwise the leaves will lose their decorative effect, and the buds and flowers will begin to fall off.

These plants have a delicate root system that is sensitive to overdose of fertilizers and improper watering. From spring to autumn, begonias are watered abundantly, after the top layer of soil has dried. Once every 10 days add to water for irrigation complex fertilizers. In autumn and winter, they are transferred to moderate watering, preventing the earthen clod from completely drying out. Excess or lack of moisture leads to the falling of leaves and buds, which can cause various diseases and even the death of the plant.

Top dressing

For normal growth and development, plants need balanced nutrition. When feeding, seasonality, the age of the plant, and its characteristics are taken into account. During spring growth, plants need nitrogen. With its deficiency, begonias lag behind in development, the leaves become pale green. With an excess of nitrogen, plants do not adapt well to unfavorable conditions.

From mid-summer, flowers are prepared for the autumn-winter period. In fertilizers, the amount of nitrogen is reduced and the proportion of phosphorus and potassium is increased. Organic and mineral fertilizers are used for fertilizing. Frequency – once every 10-14 days. Do not feed sick or dry plants.

Transfer

Begonias can be replanted throughout the spring, or at least until mid-summer, so that the plants have time to get stronger by autumn. This procedure is carried out annually, sometimes twice a year if the bushes and roots have grown quickly and the pot has become cramped. There is no need to take a new container that is too large. The begonia roots should fill the entire volume of the pot, so it is better that the new pot is not much larger than the previous one.

Begonias are watered before transplanting. The soil should not be too wet. In a new pot, a layer of expanded clay is placed on the bottom for drainage, then the flower is transferred along with a lump of earth. If necessary, add soil to the container and compact it around. Transplantation can be combined with dividing the plant. Important point when planting tubers, they should not be planted too deeply. This will negatively affect flowering, the bush will be lush and flowering will be sparse.

Features of care in winter

Wintering conditions for different types have their own characteristics, for some it is a period of relative peace, others need a full winter rest. Watering and room temperature – important factors for maintaining plants during the cold period.

Plants with decorative leaves in winter they can develop as well as in summer. But in conditions of short daylight hours and a lack of natural light, the shoots stretch out, become thin and fragile. Plant growth is regulated by watering. In winter, it is reduced and watered when the top layer of soil dries out. The temperature is also reduced to 16-18°C. You cannot place pots of flowers near heating appliances and radiators. It is advisable to provide additional lighting for the flowers.

In begonias Elatior They have a year-round development cycle; they can delight you with their flowering all winter long. To make it lush, artificial lighting is provided for 14 hours of daylight. Watering should not be excessive. Experienced flower growers still advise giving Elatior begonias a rest between winter blooms. By pinching the tips of the shoots you can regulate the flowering time.

For tuberous begonias after the end of summer flowering, reduce watering, trim the shoots and move the pots to a cool place - to the basement, glassed-in loggia, veranda.

Tubers can be preserved in another way. At the end of September, after pruning, they are removed from the ground, cleaned, dried, placed in a bag of peat and placed in winter storage. The tubers will remain dormant until the end of winter. The tubers are checked regularly, at least 1–2 times a month. When root rot appears, the affected areas are cleaned and then treated with sulfur. If the infection has spread to large areas, the tuber is thrown away to save other plants.

It is not advisable to store tubers in the refrigerator; it is too cold for them. The buds will take a long time to wake up in the spring.

Reproduction

Propagation of begonia seeds, leaf and stem cuttings, dividing tubers and bushes.

Cuttings

The advantages of this method are the preservation of varietal characteristics and the speed of reproduction. The most suitable period is spring. Young shoots with 1–2 internodes are cut from the top of the plant. Flowers, buds, lower leaves are removed, the upper ones are shortened by a third to reduce evaporation.

The cuttings are planted in mini-greenhouses with good drainage. The rooting mixture is prepared from peat, sand and vermiculite. Planted cuttings are regularly sprayed, ventilated to prevent rotting, and protected from the hot sun.

Begonia cuttings can be rooted in water, and plants can also be propagated by leaf cuttings. For this purpose, not old leaves with petioles 2–3 cm long are suitable. They are planted in a pot with a substrate, deepening the leaf to the length of the petiole. Small leaves for cuttings are taken whole, large leaves are divided into parts. The leaf fragment should have a piece of petiole and a vein. Transplantation of rooted leaf petioles begins only after the appearance of new young plants. Typically this period is 4–6 weeks. Feeding begins a month after transplantation.

Dividing tubers and bushes

This method is suitable for tuberous begonias and for plants that form large bushes. Its advantage is that begonias begin to bloom earlier.

At the beginning of spring, the plants, together with a lump of earth, are divided into parts and planted in containers. The tubers are cut into pieces so that each has buds. Then the cuttings are slightly dried and planted in light soil. To form new roots, tubers need access to air and moisture. Overmoistening should not be allowed; the soil should be in a semi-moist state, since at first there is a high risk of tubers rotting.

Propagation by seeds

Propagated by seeds ever-flowering begonia, ampelous and tuberous.

In this way you can immediately get more plants than with cuttings or division.

In mid-winter, shallow containers are filled with an earthen mixture consisting of equal parts of compost, leaf soil, peat and sand. For disinfection, the soil surface is spilled with a solution of fundozol. Begonia seeds are small; they are not buried in the ground, but are sown on the compacted surface of the substrate. The containers are covered with transparent glass or plastic bag and place in a warm place with a temperature of 21–23°C. The seeds germinate within two weeks. Next - the usual care of seedlings: daily ventilation for 1-2 hours, careful watering from a spray bottle, control over the formation of condensation on inside glass or film. After 12–14 days, the cover is removed. During this period, the temperature of the seedlings is reduced to 17–19°C and the plants are protected from direct sun. The seedlings are ready for picking after the formation of 2-3 true leaves.

Pests and diseases

Diseases

Most often, begonias suffer from powdery mildew and gray rot.

– fungal disease. Appears as white plaque on the leaves. Reduces the decorative value of the plant and can spread to all above-ground parts. The leaves begin to turn brown and dry out. Control measures - treatment with fungicides. In the room you need to reduce the air humidity and ventilate it more often.

Gray rot appears in damp and cool conditions. Fungi attack leaves, shoots, and flowers. A gray fluffy coating forms on them. Systemic fungicides will help cope with the disease. In addition, reduce watering and ventilate the room.

Pests

Aphid – a small wingless sucking insect of green or yellowish color. The pests are very prolific, multiplying quickly and sucking the juice out of the plant. The leaves turn yellow, the flowers fall off. They destroy pests by spraying plants with soap solution, tobacco infusion, and chemicals.

Spider mite, like an aphid, a sucking small insect. It depletes the plants, begonia leaves become deformed, and the buds fall off. Affected bushes are washed with soapy water and treated with insecticides.

Root nematode – a microscopic worm that settles on the roots and lower on the stems. Growths form on them in which larvae develop. Plants are stunted and rot. Sick plants are destroyed.

Blooming begonias will decorate the house, plants with colorful leaves unusual shape will enliven any interior. Looking at begonias, one cannot help but believe that “beauty will save the world.”

How to properly care for begonias? And interesting tips from experienced flower growers, you will find out by watching the video.

Begonia (lat. Begonia) – annual or perennial, belonging to the flowering department, dicotyledonous class, order Cucurbitaceae, family Begoniaceae, genus Begonia.

Begonia received its name in honor of Michel Begon, governor of Haiti, organizer and sponsor of scientific research on the flora of the Antilles in 1687.

Begonia: flower description, characteristics and photos. What does begonia look like?

Begonia growing different ways: in the form of grasses crawling along the ground, tall upright bushes or subshrubs. A well-developed root system of begonia can be branched, fibrous or tuberous. Begonia, which has a root in the form of tubers, can be grown not only indoors, but also in the garden. Other types of begonia are grown only at home.

The begonia leaf has an asymmetrical shape. It can be whole or dissected into several lobules with wavy or jagged edges.

In most plants, the lower part of the leaf is colored reddish, brown or dark purple, and the upper part can be either solid green or a variety of colors with geometric patterns, strokes and splashes. In some species of begonias, the surface of the stems and leaves is covered with small fibers.

Begonia inflorescences consist of several small, medium or large flowers. The color of begonia can be plain red, pink, yellow, orange, white or with a border of various shades along the edges of the petals. The plant has a complex inflorescence - it consists of male and female flowers, over which, after pollination, a fruit is formed, which has the shape of a triangular box with small seeds inside.

Begonias bloom in summer and autumn, and indoor begonias can bloom until December.

Begonia: varieties, types, photos and names

The genus Begonia includes about 1,600 species, but only 125 of them and all kinds of hybrids are used for decorative purposes. There is still no general plant classification system, and foreign and Russian-language sources provide absolutely different variants classifications.

Professor V.V. Vorontsov, Doctor of Agricultural Sciences, identified the following conventional types of begonias:

decorative deciduous begonias;
bush begonias;
tuberous begonias;
beautiful flowering begonias.

Begonias deciduous (decorative deciduous)

Deciduous begonia does not have a common above-ground stem, and long, hairy leaves grow immediately from a branched root. This type of begonia amazes with the beauty of its leaves, which have a variety of shapes and colors. Leaf color can be green, red, silver, yellow, white or brown. Leaves can be either plain or multi-colored, with various spots and edges.

The most famous types and varieties of decorative deciduous begonias:

Royal begonia (begonia rex) (lat. Begonia rex)

A hybrid species with round or oval leaves 30 cm long with serrated edges. Their color varies from brown-pink to purple and violet. Begonia leaves are decorated with a white, silver or green border.

Begonia Metallica (metallic) (lat. Begonia metallica)

A plant with small (10-15 cm long) olive-green, pubescent, ovoid leaves, the edges of which are serrated. The upper part of the leaves of this species seems to be covered with metallic pollen.

Begonia tiger (Bauer's begonia) (lat.Begonia bowerae )

A plant with medium-sized green, serrated, heart-shaped leaves and an animalistic pattern in brown or dark gray.

Begonia Mason(lat. Begonia masoniana)

Deciduous begonia, which grows in New Guinea and is of particular value due to its unusual leaf pattern, reminiscent of brown Maltese crosses. The length of the leaves can reach 20 cm; the leaves of old begonias acquire a characteristic silvery tint. The height of the plant usually does not exceed 20-35 cm. The flowers are medium-sized, light beige in color.

Begonia Cleopatra(lat. Begonia cleopatra)

A species characterized by very decorative leaves, similar to maple leaves. The outer side of the leaves is colored intense green or olive; the leaves below can be burgundy or bright red. Distinctive feature This type of begonia has elongated, fleshy leaf cuttings, densely covered with white or gray hairs. The height of the bush usually does not exceed 30 cm, in rare cases it reaches 50 cm. Cleopatra begonia blooms in January and February, then the plant throws out thin peduncles strewn with groups of white and pink flowers.

Begonia collarata, she's the same begonia cuff (lat.Begonia manicata )

A plant native to Mexico with a creeping stem and large, fuzzy, light green leaves up to 30 cm in diameter, growing on long cuttings. Begonia received its name due to the thick cuff of red fibers bordering the stalk just under the leaf. In winter, adult plants form about 5 flower stalks up to 60 cm long, decorated with an elegant brush of bright pink flowers.

Red leaf begonia(lat. Begonia erythrophylla)

A South American species characterized by short, fleshy stems and glossy, rounded leaves, green above and intense red below. The maximum height of a begonia bush is 35-40 cm. In mid-summer it blooms with medium-sized pinkish flowers.

Begonia bush

Bush begonia has densely growing, geniculate, branched stems that look like bamboo shoots. The plant is a bush with numerous side shoots. The leaves have a variety of shapes and colors. The flowers are beautiful and graceful. The root is thick and fleshy, not divided into parts. Bush begonia continues to bloom all year round. Begonia varieties come in both annual and perennial varieties. The height of the bushes is from 10 cm to 2 meters.

Among the representatives of this variety of begonias, the following types are very popular:

Begonia coral (lat. Begonia corallina)

A plant with erect, bare stems reaching a length of 0.5-1 m. Front side The oblong, ovoid leaves are dark green in color with silver speckles, and the reverse is brownish-red in color. The dense inflorescences of coral begonia consist of simple small flowers.

Begonia fuchsia (lat. Begonia fuchsioides)

A plant with highly branching tall stems (up to 1 m) and large oval green leaves with a glossy surface. Rare hanging flowers of fuchsia begonia are painted in all shades of red.

Tuberous begonia has a tuberous rhizome, fleshy translucent stems up to 80 cm high, simple or double flowers similar to camellias or peonies. Flowers can be either small or large, single or in inflorescences, with a diameter of 3 to 20 cm. Plants are herbaceous, shrubby or ampelous. The leaves are heart-shaped, they can be either fluffy-matte or glossy, flat or corrugated. The color of the leaves contains all shades of green: from light to dark. The flowering of tuberous begonia is long and very beautiful, lasting from May to October.

Popular varieties of erect tuberous begonias:

Begonia Picoti Harlequin (Picotee Harlequin )

Semi-spreading plant no more than 0.25 m high with large (up to 12 cm in diameter) double flowers yellow color, which have a bright red border. The leaves are green, jagged.

Begonia Bud de Rose (Bouton de rose )

A low, compact bush with double flowers, similar to a rose, reaching 18 cm in size. Petals white or soft pink color. The leaves of the begonia variety Bud de Rose are green, large, with a wavy edge.

Begonia Duck Red (Dark red )

A low-growing bush with semi-spreading stems and large, finely toothed green leaves. The double dark red flowers of this variety of begonias do not exceed 10 cm in diameter and resemble a peony.

Begonia Crispus Marginata (lat.Crispa marginata ) - a spreading plant with green leaves with a purple edge. Begonia height is 15 cm. The flower is delicate yellow or white with a red border and curly edges.

Ampelous varieties of tuberous begonia:

- A tuberous variety of begonia with long, cascading stems covered in colorful flowers on long flower shoots. The flowering period lasts from early spring to late autumn. One of the most popular varietal groups of hanging begonia is the “Chanson” series, which amazes with its variety of colors and shades. The following varieties of hanging begonias deserve attention:
- Rocsana- flowers are large, double, orange;
- Kristy- white, double flowers;
- Girl- semi-double, pale pink flowers.

Begonia boliviana(lat. Begonia boliviensis) - a type of hanging begonia, the shoots of which first grow upward, and upon reaching a height of 30 cm, elegantly fall down in the form of a multi-tiered floral cascade. The following varieties of Bolivian begonia are especially popular:
- Santa Cruz Sunset F1- a strong, spreading plant that forms drooping shoots, up to 40 cm long. From early summer to October it is covered with many red-orange, fuchsia-shaped flowers;
- Copacabana F1- a hardy and unpretentious creeping plant, during the flowering period strewn with many bright red bell-shaped flowers;
- Bossa NovaF1- a spreading plant with shoots up to 50 cm long, from spring to frost covered with fuchsia-shaped flowers of red, orange, pink or white.

Begonia blooming (beautifully flowering, decorative flowering)

This group includes begonias with very beautiful simple and double flowers of various colors. The most popular are the following types and varieties of begonias:

Begonia everblooming (lat. Begonia semperflorens)

Unites a wide group of varieties that have the remarkable property of blooming all summer, regardless of weather conditions.
The most famous varieties of ever-flowering begonia:

Baby Wing

A series of varieties of powerful plants with green and bronze leaves and plain or variegated flowers of various colors.

Ambassador

A series of begonia varieties with original green leaves bordered by a thin strip of red and with a wide variety of colors.

Cocktail

A profusely flowering low bush with brick-colored leaves and simple flowers of a characteristic begonia color.

Begonia Elatior (lat. Begonia elatior)

A hybrid variety from England, obtained by crossing tuberous begonia and socotrans begonia. Due to the ability of year-round flowering, this plant received the name winter begonia (lat. Begonia hiemalis). It is a compact bush, about 40 cm high, with a thick stem and bright, glossy leaves about 8 cm long, shaped like an asymmetrical heart with jagged edges. Numerous simple or double flowers form multi-tiered inflorescences growing on long stalks. Varieties of begonia Elatior, depending on the height of the bush, are divided into 3 types:

– tall (about 40 cm) (for example, varieties Louise, Renaissance, Schwabenland);

– medium (about 30 cm) (for example, varieties Kyoto, Annebell, Bellona);

– low-growing (not higher than 25 cm) (for example, varieties Scharlach, Lachsorange, Piccora)

Begonia Gloire de Lorraine(Begonia Gloire de L orraine)

Like begonia Elatior, it belongs to winter-flowering varieties. It was developed in France in 1891 by crossing Begonia socotrana and Begonia dregei. This rather spreading, low plant is distinguished by rounded glossy leaves of light green color with a red spot at the base. Begonia begins to bloom in the fall and continues throughout the winter. The simple flowers form drooping clusters of pink. The most popular varieties of the group:

Competitor- spreading, spectacular bush, strewn with intense pink flowers;

Marina- a low-growing plant with deep pink flowers growing on short flower shoots;

Rosemary- a variety of Swiss selection with many small, pink flowers.

Where does the begonia flower grow?

In the wild, begonia grows in tropical rainforests and high mountain regions. Most begonia species are found in Argentina and Brazil, Venezuela and Bolivia, Peru and Chile, India, Pakistan, the Malay Islands, Sri Lanka and the western part of the African continent. Despite suitable climatic conditions, the begonia flower does not grow in the vast expanses of Australia and the islands of Polynesia.

In indoor conditions, these flowers can grow all over the world, the main thing is to create the necessary microclimate for begonias.

Garden begonia: planting and care in open ground

In mid-latitudes, almost all types of begonias are grown indoors, with the exception of tuberous begonia, which can also be grown indoors. open ground.

Begonias are planted in the garden in early June, when the threat of frost disappears. For the plant, you need to choose places that are slightly shaded or with diffused sunlight. Before planting begonia in open ground, the seedling is hardened off by placing it for a week in a well-lit room with an average daytime temperature of 23-27 0 C and a night temperature of 12-15 0 C.

The best soil for begonias is soil mixtures containing leaf soil, humus, peat and sand, combined in a ratio of 1:0.5:0.5:0.5. Drainage (expanded clay, fine crushed stone or coarse sand) is poured into the bottom of the hole. After which a mixture of peat and compost is added to it, which can be replaced with complex potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. Begonia planted in the garden should be watered and the ground around it should be sprinkled with wood ash. To avoid hypothermia of the seedling at night, cover it with film or agrofibre.

Proper care tuberous begonia in open ground does not present any particular difficulties. It is necessary to regularly loosen the soil around the flower, ensuring access of oxygen to the tubers. Garden begonia should be watered depending on the amount of precipitation, usually done once every 3 days. With the onset of a dry period, the frequency of watering increases followed by loosening the soil. Be careful when watering begonia: the plant feels comfortable in high air humidity, but it absolutely cannot tolerate drops of water falling on the leaves, as this can lead to a disease such as gray rot.

Begonia in landscape design looks simply amazing and allows you to create magnificent flower beds that will delight you all summer long!

Begonia care in autumn

In the fall, after the leaves fall, the plant is prepared for winter:

stop watering the begonia;
in the first ten days of October, begonia tubers are removed from the ground;
the begonia stem is cut off, leaving a shoot of 3 cm;
the tubers are dried at room temperature for 14 days;
begonia tubers are placed in a wooden box, covered with sand;
Store the tubers in a room with a temperature not lower than 5-6 0 C.

When to dig up begonia?

There is no need to rush to dig up begonia for the winter immediately after the onset of cold weather. After all, in the fall, the plant grows tubers especially intensively and accumulates nutrients in them, at the same time the laying of future flower buds occurs. Begonia must be kept in the soil for as long as possible so that the above-ground part turns yellow and dries out. Then the entire supply of photosynthesis products from the leaves will inevitably “drain” to the tubers.

A garden begonia growing in a flowerbed is dug up with a pitchfork, it is carefully removed with a lump of earth, and, without removing the above-ground part, it is laid out in a cool, dry room. After a month, dead stems and soil residues are completely removed. For storage, begonia tubers are placed in containers with dry sand or peat and sprayed with a spray bottle once a month.

Begonias growing in pots do not need to be dug up, but wait until the stems completely die and store them directly in the pot. In February-March, the begonia begins to be watered, and with the appearance of young shoots, it is transplanted into a new container.

Caring for begonia at home

The question of how to care for begonia at home interests many lovers of indoor plants. In fact, caring for indoor begonia is quite simple. This plant is light-loving, but does not like direct rays of the sun, so for its placement use window sills that face east, southeast, northwest or west. The main condition: that there are no drafts.

Most favorable temperature regime fluctuates from 22 to 25 0 C in summer and from 15 to 18 0 C in winter. The soil for domestic begonia is used the same as when growing begonia in the garden: leaf soil, humus, peat and sand in a ratio of 1:0.5:0.5:0.5.

Begonia in a pot should be watered in spring and summer with settled water, avoiding drying out and waterlogging of the earthen clod. In winter, watering deciduous and bush flowers is reduced to a minimum. Tuberous types of begonias stop moisturizing, they shed their leaves, after which all dried parts are removed from the plant, and the tubers wait out the cold in dry peat soil.

Feeding indoor begonia is important for the successful development of the plant, and nitrogen fertilizers that stimulate foliage growth are suitable for leafy species, and phosphorus-containing fertilizers are suitable for flowering ones.

Replanting begonias

Tuberous types of begonias are transplanted into a new pot and soil every spring, and varieties with branched or fibrous roots need this procedure when the pot has become small. The plant is removed from the old container and its roots are immersed in a solution of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate) for disinfection. After removing the damaged parts, the plant is planted in a larger pot with fresh soil.

Begonia propagation, methods and photos

Spring is best time for propagation of begonias. Reproduction methods:

rooting cuttings with several (3-5) leaves;
dividing the bush into parts with separate roots;
cutting a large tuber into several parts with sprouts;
leaves, cutting large veins with reverse side sheet and immersing it cut side down in wet sand;
seedlings from seeds sprouted at the end of winter.

Propagation of begonias by cuttings

Cuttings are one of the most common methods of propagating begonias. Many amateur gardeners use it because it:

easy to perform;
gives quick results;
Suitable for all stem begonias;
retains all varietal characteristics.

To propagate begonia in this way, it is enough to use a sharp knife to cut cuttings at least 10 cm long. For this, you can use both the upper and middle parts of the stem. The main condition for a good cutting is the presence of at least two to three buds on it. After which all excess leaves are removed from it, leaving only one or two top ones. If the leaves are large, they are cut in half.

After completing the preparatory operations, you can begin to root the cuttings. Florists use two methods for this:

rooting in water;
rooting in the ground.

Cuttings that will be used for rooting in water do not need further processing. For material that will be germinated in the substrate, the sections must be sprinkled with wood ash and dried.

Rooting begonias in water

Begonia cuttings are placed in a container of water, the temperature of which should not differ from the temperature of the room where germination will take place. You can only use soft water, as hard or cold water may be detrimental to the future plant. The container with the cuttings is placed in a room with a temperature of 18-20 o C, well illuminated by indirect sunlight. It is advisable to use transparent containers to constantly monitor the condition of the cut. If signs of rotting of the begonia cuttings are noticed, the cut is renewed and a fresh portion of water is poured into the container. After roots about 1-2 cm long appear on the cuttings, it can be transplanted into a pre-prepared pot with suitable soil.

Rooting begonia in soil (substrate)

As a substrate used for rooting cuttings, it is advisable to use begonia soil purchased in specialized stores. However, you can use sand and peat mixed in a 3:1 ratio. For successful rooting, the room temperature should be in the range of 22-24 o C. The pot for germination should be selected small size so that the rooted plant not only grows, but also flowers abundantly.

Before planting in the ground, the lower cut of the cutting must be treated with preparations that stimulate root formation. The seedling is buried in a well-moistened substrate to the level of the leaves. After which the pot with the cutting is covered with a glass jar or plastic bottle. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that no part of the cutting touches the walls or lid.

The condensation that appears on the walls indicates the correct microclimate in a kind of greenhouse. To harden the plant, you need to remove the jar or bottle for a few minutes every day and ventilate the future begonia. When the first leaves appear, covering is no longer carried out.

Propagation of begonia by dividing the bush or rhizomes

Bush begonias with a well-developed branched root system can be propagated by dividing the bush or rhizomes. To do this, in the spring the plant is removed from the pot along with a lump of earth so as not to damage the roots. After that, old stems and peduncles, as well as large leaves, are removed from the begonia. The rhizomes are carefully freed from lumps of earth and, using a sharp knife, are divided into several parts. The main condition is the presence of a shoot or bud on each of them. The sections are immediately treated with wood ash. The separated parts are planted in pots with a substrate, for which you need to use special soil for begonias, purchased in flower shops. After abundant watering, the separated plants are placed in a room with good lighting(but not in direct sunlight) and a temperature of 20-25 o C.