A garden pond can be built using various materials.

My first decorative pond was an aquarium dug into the ground. I placed two nymphs in it, the rhizomes of which were stored all winter in the refrigerator, in a bag with moss. In early spring The rhizomes were planted in plastic containers (with holes drilled in the bottom) and lowered into the aquarium.

Nymphs bloomed in this small garden pond all summer. And then the containers with rhizomes safely overwintered in storage along with the potatoes.
In the spring, the overgrown nymphs were removed from the containers. I divided each rhizome into several sections with growing points.

The number of nymphs increased, and it was necessary to solve the problem of constructing a real decorative pond in the garden.

Options for constructing a garden pond

When building a small garden pond, the easiest option is to purchase a special plastic bowl - the base of the pond. All that remains is to dig the purchased bowl into the ground and pour water into it.
This is convenient, but I wanted to have a much larger decorative pond in the garden.

I didn’t have time to make a pond thoroughly (with a special film for ponds, with a geotextile lining under the film, etc.). I decided to do it easier.

For construction decorative pond I dug a pit 50 cm deep in the garden. I leveled the bottom of the pit, smoothed the walls (at an angle of approximately 45 degrees) and lined the bowl of the future pond with a regular greenhouse film made of stabilized polyethylene 150 microns thick.
The walls of the reservoir at the top ended with a step for stones, with which I pressed the edges of the film.
The film was laid loosely in the pond bed, with folds, to avoid excessive tension when filling the reservoir with water.
Subsequently, I covered the upper part of the walls of the pond, located above the water, with black lutrasil (spunbond). The pond looks much better this way. In addition, under black lutrasil, polyethylene ages more slowly - it does not lose its elasticity so quickly.

Let me summarize the results of many years of operation of a simple garden pond using conventional stabilized polyethylene film.
Firstly, this design of a decorative reservoir turned out to be quite viable. Problems with mechanical damage there was no film (plant roots) or other horrors.
Secondly, you don’t have to remove the plastic film for the winter. Then in the spring there will be less hassle with starting the reservoir, and a starting supply of water in the pond will automatically be formed.
And the last conclusion: plastic film in a reservoir lasts at least two seasons, and with careful handling - even longer.
Thus, as simple option For a garden pond, the film construction is quite acceptable.

Of course, if there is a desire and opportunity, then it is better to immediately build a decorative pond in a more thorough manner.
First of all, when building a garden pond, it is advisable to use a special film for ponds. It is more reliable and durable than polyethylene.
To protect the special film from damage, it is useful to first line the prepared reservoir bed with geotextiles - a special synthetic non-woven material.
This is exactly what I did in 2007 when reconstructing my “Small Pond”.

Below is a series of photographs illustrating the stages of this reconstruction:

1 - pond bed with steps for plants and stones;
2 - the pond bed is covered with geotextiles;

3 - pond film laid out with folds;
4 - the pond is ready.

Plants in a garden pond

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Owners of a country license land plot there are two ways: use square meters purely for a vegetable garden and lawn, or to create flower beds and gazebos on them. We may be exaggerating slightly, but there is still something in it. Usually those who choose the second option try to place everything on their site at once: a gazebo, and summer kitchen, and a place for barbecue, and flower beds, and a pond for swimming or breeding fish. And when you want to implement so many plans, it is very important that everything is well planned. In this article, we invite you to discuss how it would be better to build a pond on your own plot of land.

Why is it better to use film?

Most likely, few people will want to dispute the fact that the pond is the most beautiful decoration summer cottage plot. Therefore, it is very important that those who decide to build such a building find answers to all the questions that arise during the construction process. The quality and durability of the pond depends on this.

Pond in the country - how to make it yourself

Caring for a pond is not easy. Therefore, it is very important that the waterproofing is at a high level. After all, it is reliable waterproofing ensures high-quality and durable operation of the structure. Garden pond liner is the best insulating material for reservoirs. We will now consider its features.

Advantages of film for artificial reservoirs

Pond care is not a simple technical process. A good insulating coating can save you a lot of hassle. What is it like - high-quality coating for swimming pools, ponds, reservoirs and artificial lakes?

Film laying

Modern manufacturers of insulation materials have invented a reliable waterproofing material that has a lot of advantages:

An environmentally friendly product, which means that it will not harm anyone. environment, nor to people;
Reasonable price;
Large selection of colors and patterns;
Significant resistance to mechanical and chemical damage;
High quality material can last up to 50 years;
Easy and convenient to use when decorating an artificial pond.

Agree that these listed advantages are enough to pay attention to such a material as film insulator. Among owners of suburban areas and landscape designers, pond film has become widely known. This material is not at all difficult to work with..

Naturalness comes first

Any body of water begins with a pit. Then a purchased polymer solid bowl is installed or a concrete one is poured. The polymer bowl has its pros and cons. Among the disadvantages, we will primarily mention the tendency to damage and the stamped shape. Therefore, if you have the physical and material opportunity, give preference to a concrete pond. This is a more durable material, and a concrete bowl provides more opportunities for further decorative transformation of the reservoir.

Film covering with concrete filling of the pond

To prevent concrete from crumbling due to exposure to moisture over time, it is covered with tiles, glass mosaic or even marble. But, if we are talking about an artificial pond, then it will only lose from this. Ponds in the garden are erected with the goal of getting closer to nature, and not to emphasize the man-made nature of the design.

Therefore, relatively new method film waterproofing helps to cope with this problem. The coating will be smooth, but at the same time will not emphasize the unnaturalness of the reservoir.

Film coating can be divided into three types:

Ultra-thin coating is a film up to 1 mm;

Ultra-durable coating is a film of 1.5 mm and above;
Having air bags - a durable coating with air cushions that prevent injuries when falling.

These films are commercially available in both black and all sorts of bright colors. Just look at the names: Blue Lagoon, Golden Sand, White Pearl.

Types and characteristics of film for artificial ponds

Modern market landscape design offers us the following waterproofing options: polyethylene film, PVC material (polyvinyl chloride) and butyl rubber pond film.

PVC film

Polyethylene film is the most inexpensive material of this kind, but at the same time the most fragile (the guarantee of use is only 2-3 years).

PVC film is a very durable material that has high elasticity and waterproofing

Technical PVC characteristics films:

Weight of one m2 from 0.5 kg to 1 kg;
Thickness 0.5-1.2mm;
Elasticity index 200%;
To break the integrity of the polyvinyl chloride film coating, mechanical action from sharp glass or metal is required.

Installation of PVC film on a small pond (video)

Butyl rubber film

Butyl rubber film – durable and reliable material, which will serve you for a long time (up to 50 years). A favorite material for builders because it is easy to work with. Also such material is not subject to destruction from sun rays (no cracks form) and temperatures(this is very convenient, because you don’t need to drain the water from the pond for the winter). Safe for the aquatic environment (compatible with fauna and flora). Another advantage is that this film is black, and this helps create the appearance of a deep bottom in ready-made version pond.

Butyl rubber film

Technical characteristics of rubber film:

The weight of one m2 is approximately 1.5 kg;
Thickness 1.02mm;
Elasticity index 300%;
To break the integrity of the butyl rubber film coating, mechanical action from wood or metal is required.

If, nevertheless, you were able to cut or somehow damage the film, then using rubber mastic you can repair any hole (such as a repair kit).

Rolls of rubber film are produced in fairly large widths (3-15 meters), which allows for a complete, seamless coating of small ponds.

Installing rubber film is just as easy as installing PVC film. True, due to the fact that rubber rolls are much heavier, you need at least one or two more pairs of hands. The pieces of film are glued together with tape. The places of such soldering remain waterproof.

Flexible butyl rubber material will follow any shape and outline of the pond. And the folds will disappear behind water, stones and plants. Experts advise using a geosubstrate to protect the rubber film from the effects of rhizomes.

You can't do it without helpers!

It can be seen that there are now plenty of materials for covering swimming pools and artificial reservoirs. Therefore it is very important to do right choice. We hope these criteria will help you:

Size and depth of the pond. If the depth of the reservoir is less than a meter, then polyethylene film 0.5mm thick will be enough; if the depth is up to 2 meters, then you need PVC film 1mm thick; if your pond is more than two meters deep and wide enough, then use butyl rubber film to cover it;
Your choice should also be dictated by what you plan to place in the pond (additional objects - water cascades, a waterfall, a fountain, fish, or if you plan to swim in the pond).

Manufacturers of materials and price review

Like many other products, film for artificial ponds is divided into elite and general products. For example, an elite film is one that imitates natural materials(stone, gravel). The price of such a film will start from 700 rubles/m2. The Italians occupy the leading position. German firms are following them and US manufacturers are competing with them.

There are a lot of film manufacturers, so proceed from your requirements for the pond.

We bring to your attention an overview of the most famous manufacturers of pool covers:

Agrilac is an Italian company specializing in the production and sale of PVC material. The products of this company are of the highest quality and affordable. Agrilac film is the best option. Product prices start from 150 rubles/m2;
IZOFOL is a Polish manufacturer specializing in the production of waterproofing films. The most important principle of the company is product quality, so the films of this company are not inferior to the market. The price starts from 200 rub/m2;
WTB ELBEsecur is the most famous manufacturer waterproofing materials on the German market. Produces and distributes several types of PVC material. The strength of the offered product more than compensates for the small assortment. The films of this company can even withstand heavy loads. The price starts from 230 rub/m2;
RENOLIT is another world-famous German company. The products are of high quality and a wide range. The price starts from 200 rub/m2;
Gardena is a European association engaged in the production of items for landscape design. The price starts from 200 rub/m2;
Heissner is a German brand whose specialty is the chemical industry. Therefore, they are quite well versed in the production of PVC films.

There are not many manufacturers of butyl rubber film on the market, because the production of such material is quite complex and expensive:

EPDM PondLiner is the leader of such products on the US market and in the world too. Trade is carried out with more than 100 countries. The price starts from 270 rub/m2;
Larex is Italian company. To make the price more affordable, they reduced the thickness of the membrane film. The price starts from 160 rub/m2;
Ergis is a Polish brand that has tried to find a price/quality ratio that is beneficial for everyone. Decent company. The price starts from 200 rub/m2;
OASE and Pontec are German manufacturers of butyl rubber film. The products can be classified as elite. Therefore, the price starts from 300 rubles/m2.

It is clear that the list of manufacturers is not complete, but these listed are of the highest level.

Step-by-step installation of pond film (video)

Your choice - butyl rubber film or PVC coating - should be influenced by qualitative analysis your pond. Consider the size and purpose of your pond. Butyl rubber film material does not react with chemicals intended for pool care, and is also not damaged during water filtration. To avoid re-ordering, please calculate required amount material. Also be careful that you are provided with guarantees for service, certificates, adherence to all manufacturer requirements, and the possibility of exchange.

Nowadays, the landscape design market is very competitive, so choose the material for pool protection that meets your needs. Gone are the days when cracks were covered with clay. Polymers that replaced natural material nature sufficiently meet all necessary requirements for high-quality waterproofing.

Geotextiles, in the technology of constructing artificial reservoirs, it is used as a basis for the film, for its safety and tightness. Issued as roll material 4 mm thick with a universal density of 400 g/sq.m.

To decorate the shores of a homemade pond, coconut mats are useful, helping to compact the shore soil for planting.

What to consider when choosing a film

The main criteria when choosing a waterproofing membrane, which is designed to hold water, will be the size of the pond and its depth:

for a depth of 75 cm with a small reservoir volume, high-density polyethylene 0.5 mm thick is sufficient;
for a depth of up to 1.5 m, a pond with a side of more than 3 meters is suitable PVC film 1 mm thick;
for a deep reservoir of a large area you will need a two-layer butyl rubber film 1 mm thick;
An essential condition for the choice will also be the size of the functional load of the reservoir: additional devices of cascades, waterfalls, fountains, fish breeding, bathing children;
all types of films are produced in in roll form and differ in the width of the canvas, which implies gluing over a large area of the reservoir. You can also find offers for delivery in sections (4x50 m), with the specified footage.

It is better to choose the size of the film to minimize the joint seams.

The film goes on sale different color: white, green, blue, light blue. It is worth choosing a black film: it hides the artificial bottom of the pond better than others under the water column and creates the illusion of great depth.

Operational requirements for soft waterproofing during the construction of an artificial reservoir

High tensile and puncture strength;
reliability in conditions of temperature changes;
plasticity, for obtaining a pond of any shape;
environmental Safety;
versatility in contact with other materials;
ability to bond to obtain a sealed seam;
low maintenance and ease of repair;
the ability to repeatedly change the shape of a reservoir;
decorativeness.

Characteristics of features. Points for and against"

Polyethylene film

The main advantage is cheapness, the ability to replace the coating if its integrity is damaged. Resistance to decay, bioinertness. Light weight. Ability to join by welding.
The main disadvantage is fragility; influence on water turbidity and blooming.

PVC film

The main advantage is environmental friendliness and high resistance to bioaggression. It has high tensile strength, elasticity and friction coefficient, which facilitates the installation of the bottom in tension and the design of coastal slopes. A two-layer membrane and a higher density than water provide 100% tightness. Frost-resistant, not afraid of root growth, and has high chemical resistance.
The main disadvantage is high level humidity of adjacent soils, as well as relative fragility (10 years).

Butyl rubber film EPDM

The main advantage is new generation material with a number of unique physical and technical properties:

increased tensile and puncture strength;
technological accessibility of installation;

exceptional resistance to extreme weather conditions;
subject to fragmentary repairs;
environmentally friendly for living organisms;
universal in finishing any surface (soil, stone, wood, concrete);
provides maximum membrane width (up to 60 m);
allows you to give the pond any shape or change it if desired;
the range of components allows you to seal pump inlets, problem areas, and corners of the reservoir;
exceptional durability (up to 50 years) allows us to talk about cost-effectiveness, even at prices higher than for PVC.

Flaws not currently installed.

Decorative film with gravel

The main advantage is decorative effect , which allows you to create the illusion of a bottom covered with sand and stones, design the entrance to a reservoir, imitate a dry riverbed, and make the banks more natural. The film is produced with a coating of fine gravel and coarse gravel (like pebbles).
The disadvantages are the same as those of PVC film, since it is the basis of a decorative fabric.

DIY decorative pond? Use the algorithm

The design of the pond determines its shape and additional options. It must be tied to a specific place in the garden, chosen from the point of view of illumination, distance from big trees, no slope of more than 5 degrees and constant wind direction.
The area for the pond is cleared of turf and stones and leveled.
The outline of the future reservoir is laid out with a cord.
Prepare the pit by removing the soil in stages: first, at a depth of 40 cm - a new contour smaller than the first is laid at the bottom. The hole is deepened along it to 70 cm - a new contour is formed, smaller than the previous one. The next excavation is done to a depth of 1.2 m or more.
The stepped bottom of the future pond is compacted, and any stones driven into the ground. Cover with a layer of wet sand.
The resulting pit is covered with geotextiles with the edge of the canvas extended 50 cm beyond the original contour, carefully straightening it along the bottom.
To get a clear edge of the pool, a rubber hose is laid along the edge.
The waterproofing membrane is prepared to fit the size of the pond, gluing the sheets together if required.
The film is spread over the geofabric, straightening the folds and bringing the edges beyond the boundaries of the pond.
To fix the film to the bottom, large stones are placed at opposite edges on geotextile substrates, which will also serve a decorative role.
The pond is filled with water from a hose, directing the stream under pressure into the middle, and the film is once again straightened on the bottom and shore (up to 30 cm), removing excess material.
The edges of the film brought ashore are fixed with metal or wooden pins.
Using wild flagstone, they decorate the shore, compact it with coconut mats or cover it with turf on top of the soil.
Pond improvement includes planting plants both in the pond itself and on its banks.

Can be used to illuminate a pond LED lights : land, underwater and floating. As well as lamps that operate on solar energy accumulated during the day.

What to do if there is no full sheet of waterproofing?

A membrane of the required size can be obtained by gluing the panels or welding them, which is technologically more difficult. Used for gluing:

double-sided adhesive tape, having previously treated the butyl rubber film with a primer, which improves the quality and tightness of the seam;
neopron-based mounting adhesive, which can glue both butyl rubber film and PVC film to any base;
special glue for gluing PVC sheets, specifically for reservoirs. It produces a durable and water-resistant seam;
adhesive-sealant for PVC when degreasing the edges and securely fixing them before a seam is formed;
a machine for welding polyethylene film and even an ordinary iron.

For a secure seam The gluing area must be rolled first across the seam, and then along, with a silicone roller. This is done in order to squeeze out air bubbles from the seam. Using a plastic spatula, the seam is leveled and additionally treated with sealant.

How to calculate the consumption of soft sealant for a pond

The calculation is based on the dimensions of the pond: length, width and depth. The standard width of PVC film in a roll is 2,4,6, 8 m. The length of the film is calculated as follows::

overall length along the pond mirror (c) + double depth (c) + 1 m for fixation;

Width:

overall width along the pond mirror (b) + double depth (c) + 1 m for fixation;

This calculation can be put into formula:

a (the desired value) = b + c + 1m.

Are there options for sealing a pond other than film?

Bentonite mats. This construction material based on granulated bentonite clay hammered between two layers of synthetic fabric. In contact with water, clay swells, forming a dense gel. The joints are filled with bentonite strands. The installation process does not take much time. The material can withstand several cycles of dehydration.
Creating a waterproofing layer using technology spraying polyuria(polyurea). Hardens within a few minutes and is resistant to heavy loads. True, it requires qualified execution by a specialist.
Modern and expensive spraying method liquid rubber. Has an unlimited service life, stretchability - 450%. The layer is resistant to corrosion, temperature changes, and environmentally friendly. However, it requires special equipment, knowledge of technology and professionally trained performers.
And finally plastic container industrial production up to 50 cubic meters in volume. The pleasure is expensive and difficult to install, but small molded ponds are easily installed on summer cottage even a layman. They don't require special care and serve without restrictions.

When arranging a summer cottage, its owner now has no unfulfilled desires: a swimming pool, decorative pond- is quite real. The dream comes true thanks to the appearance of new materials with unique technical characteristics in the line of soft sealants.

But proven polyethylene or PVC film can also serve you impeccable service when constructing such a spectacular detail for your garden as a decorative pond.

Close to yours suburban area there is no lake or river? Don’t be upset - in our time this “injustice” can be easily corrected. The creation of artificial reservoirs is one of the most popular areas of modern garden design. And for those owners of country property who decide to organize a garden pond on their own, I offer a number of practical solutions and recommendations based on my own experience.

As a rule, owners of large plots are not averse to pampering themselves with large lakes with fountains, swimming pools and even fish splashing in them. If you need just such a water area, then it is better to invite specialists to create it. As for bulky stationary pools, our cold and rainy summers make them little in demand structures. Without special purification systems, the water in them becomes polluted very quickly, and in the heat it heats up and begins to “bloom.” Therefore, today we will talk about the construction of “film” ponds - small, but quite suitable for growing water lilies and even fish (provided that your pond is deep enough).

Construction planning

The site for constructing a pond should be as level as possible, especially if you are doing this work for the first time. It is also advisable that during the hottest time of the day the water garden should be in light shade, otherwise the water will quickly heat up and may “bloom”. In addition, aggressive plants should not grow near the reservoir. perennial shrubs, for example, Sakhalin knotweed, since their roots can pierce through even thick plastic film. A place near old trees, especially deciduous ones, is also not suitable, since their root system will interfere with construction, and falling leaves will create additional problems.

Advice

There is no need to fix the film at the bottom of the reservoir. The water pressure is quite enough to hold it in the desired position.

For example, we once decided to expand the lower pond on our site, dug at the foot of an old spruce stump. During the work, it turned out that nothing had happened to its roots over the past ten years - they had not rotted or crumbled, and we had to work with them for almost a week. They sawed off, uprooted, and even had to cut out the thickest roots with an axe. So it’s better to immediately choose a place where trees have never grown.

Having decided on the location of the future reservoir, we will outline its contours. This can be done using sand, rope or twine. Next you need to think about the depth of the pond. In general, the deeper the reservoir, the easier it is to maintain water balance in it and the better aquatic inhabitants feel in winter. The recommended depth is at least 0.7–1 m for water lilies and 0.5 m if you want to breed fish.

Terracing and filling

After you decide on the construction site and outline the shape of the future reservoir, you will need to dig a foundation pit. It is advisable to make two terraces (steps) at least 20 cm wide along the contour of the reservoir. On them you can subsequently install containers with plants from the coastal zone and lay stones that will decorate the film.

When building a “film” pond, it is very important to correctly calculate the ratio of its depth and the width of the selected film. The standard width of a folded polyethylene “sleeve”, as a rule, does not exceed 1.5 meters, but there are also special materials for ponds on sale.

To determine the width and length of the film, measure the future pond using a rope or a long cord (the cord must be laid carefully, taking into account all the unevenness of the terrain and leaving at least 20 cm for allowances at the edges).

Swamp water - salvation for the pond

And now, finally, the time has come to lay the film and pour water into our pond. Carefully lower the film to the bottom of the pit, placing folds on it. Now let’s straighten its edges and place a hose supplying water at the bottom. While the pond is filling, you need to carefully adjust the folds of the film and make sure that under the pressure of water it does not stretch, but lies freely.

Advice

Do not immediately lower purchased water lilies and other deep-sea plants to the bottom of the reservoir. First, position the container so that the bud at the end of the rhizome is a few centimeters below the water level, and the leaves float on the surface. As soon as the plant begins to grow, you can gradually remove the stands and lower the basket to the bottom.

It is known that stagnant water sooner or later “blooms” - blue-green unicellular algae appear in it. And if your pond is not fed by groundwater, this will indeed happen soon. However, this process can be stopped by adding water from the nearest natural reservoir to the newly created pond (10–20 liters with a depth of up to 70 cm and a water surface area of about 2 m2). The fact is that natural water contains a huge number of simple organisms that feed on algae. In addition, dragonfly larvae, swimming beetles, snails and many other living organisms live in it, which help maintain the normal water balance of the pond.

So the pond is full. Now you can cut off the excess edges of the film around the perimeter and begin placing decorative stones and plants. If your pond has the correct geometric shape, a frame made of limestone tiles will look best. If you want to create a water garden in natural style, then a continuous edging around the perimeter will not work. To make the shores of such a reservoir look beautiful and natural, you need to select stones of different calibers and lay them not in a continuous chain, but alternate them with plantings of plants in the coastal zone.

aquatic plants

Experts divide reservoirs into four plant zones: deep-water (bottom), shallow-water, swamp and coast. From these names, in principle, it is clear that bottom plants are planted at the very bottom of the pond, shallow and swamp plantings require more light, but are also located in the water, and coastal plants are already located beyond the border of the film, on the shore.

Deep-sea (bottom) plants take root in the soil, while their leaves and flowers float freely on the surface. These are water lily, yellow capsule, aponogeton, marsh flower, orontium and others. Of course, water lilies are the most decorative. However, when purchasing these plants, it is worth remembering that different varieties vary greatly in size, so plants need to be selected taking into account the area of your reservoir. Dwarf varieties, which are grown at a depth of no more than 40 cm, in deeper reservoirs are placed in baskets and placed on stands. By the way, planting in baskets is the best option for all plants in this zone - this makes it much more convenient to control their further growth.

Advice

Depending on the species, coastal plants are usually planted to a depth of 10–15 cm. They are unpretentious, they can easily be found in a natural reservoir or swamp and transplanted into your garden pond. All of them grow successfully without containers, directly in the ground. Most of these plants are hygrophytes (they easily tolerate both flooding and short-term decreases in water levels), so they can be cultivated in the swamp area of the pond.

Plantings must be mulched with gravel or sand (a layer of at least 2 cm). This helps prevent soil from being washed away and plants being damaged by fish.

Deep-sea species with floating leaves must be planted at some distance from each other, otherwise they will cover the entire surface of the water. This group includes common watercolor, duckweed various types, telores aloeides and eichornia, or water hyacinth. In addition to the categories mentioned, oxygenator plants that prevent water pollution are often located in the same zone. They absorb mineral salts and carbon dioxide, which serve as food for green algae and release oxygen. These are swampweed, water buttercup, hornwort, pondweed and turkish grass.

Shallow water plants are planted in the coastal zone. Their roots are located in the ground under water at a depth of 5–50 cm, and most of shoots are in the air. Coastal shallow-water species play the role of a “bridge” between the water and the shore. These include marigold, trefoil watch, marsh iris, calamus iris and others. When creating a water garden, you need to take into account that the mature fruits of calamus - coral-red berries - are poisonous, and calamus iris must be divided regularly.

Well, in the coastal zone, where a film separates the water boundary from the land, a wide variety of species can be planted. Along the edge of the shore of the pond, decorative moisture-loving plants with wide leaves are usually placed: large-leaved varieties of hosta, bergenia, fern and geranium.

Fish farming

Small garden ponds are usually not stocked with fish, as this can cause rapid algae growth and waterlogging. Even for large bodies of water there are some rules, compliance with which is mandatory.

Firstly, fish can be introduced into a garden pond no earlier than a few weeks after planting, when the latter have completely taken root. Otherwise, containers with plantings will become a place where new inhabitants of the pond will try to find food for themselves or simply hide, as a result of which the plants will begin to float and may even die. Secondly, per 1 cm of the size of the fish there should be at least 50 liters of water. It is necessary to take into account that plants also consume a certain amount of water, and small fish grow quite quickly.

Text: Maria Karela

Preface

If you are going to make a pond from film, you will have to spend more effort than when creating a decorative pond from old bath.

Required Tools and materials

ArmatureConcrete mixerBitumen masticBulgarianRollerBucketWaterNailsnail pullerClayPrimerPlaned boardDrillStonePencilExpanded clayBrushCuvetteShovelMaster OKPolyethylene filmRouletteExtensionLevelCement

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Contents

If you are going to make a pond from film, you will have to spend more effort than when creating a decorative pond from an old bathtub. Firstly, you will need to build a pit, and secondly, you must make a blind area. But the result is worth it - such a pond is not limited by the area and shape of the container, which means that when creating it and subsequent design you can show more imagination.

How to build a pond from film with your own hands: tools and materials

Whatever type of coating is used to create a pond from film with your own hands, the principle of operation will be the same. Only minor exceptions are possible.

To work you will need the following tools:

spirit level (building level);
a roll of cord or twine (for marking);
wooden pegs;
garden hose;
shovel.

Before building a film pond with your own hands, purchase the following materials:

film;
geotextiles or concrete (to protect the reservoir from tree roots, animal teeth and claws, sharp stones, etc.);
sand (for the underlying layer);
submersible pump(its power will depend on the size of the reservoir);
cleaning filter (preferably a pressure filter with a reverse cleaning system);
decorative stones;
aquatic plants.

How to calculate the amount of film and how to choose the location and shape of the pond

How to calculate the amount of film for a pond in a summer cottage? When choosing the size of waterproofing material, it is necessary to take into account all possible circumstances, so a reserve is always required. The calculation of the film coating can be done as follows: the dimensions of the width and length of the future pond must be folded, double the depth dimension added and also add 600 mm for an allowance - this film will be fixed along the edges of the pond.

Before choosing a place to build a pond made of film, you need to take into account the requirements determined by the standards for the construction of all reservoirs: the place should be sufficiently lit, there should be no trees or shrubs in the immediate vicinity, it is better to make the pond closer to the house and the water source and power point etc.

The film base of the reservoir bowl allows you to achieve a wide variety of sizes and shapes. Therefore, when choosing all these parameters for a do-it-yourself film pond at the dacha, you need to take into account the usual requirements that apply to garden ponds. And, of course, at your own request. But it is better that the pond has rounded lines without sharp corners - such a pond will look good, and this is more convenient when laying the film, as well as in the future when cleaning the reservoir, because in sharp corners More garbage will always accumulate.

In any case, the pond needs to be equipped with terraces for plants. If you plan to breed fish in a pond, then its depth should be at least 50-60 cm. Some aquatic plants, such as large nymphs, require a planting depth of up to 70 cm.

The photo “Do-it-yourself pond made of film” shows all the options for the shapes and sizes of garden ponds:

When choosing a design style, you can focus on some separate element in the overall composition - it can be an original stone, tree, sculpture or alpine slide.

Construction of a pit for a pond for laying film

Before making a pond from film, you need to draw a plan of the reservoir indicating the depth of all stages of the reservoir (terraces for planting plants) and the placement of the main elements of the arrangement.

All work with the film should be carried out on a warm sunny day, since with increasing temperature the coefficient of elasticity of the film increases, it will stretch better and easily go around all the ledges of the pit.

Before constructing a pit, you need to find out what the level is groundwater: if they lie quite close to the surface of the earth, then you will need to install a relief valve, otherwise the rising groundwater level will squeeze out part of the bottom, damaging the reservoir.

Before constructing a pit using shore modules fastened with metal brackets, you need to mark the contours of the pond. It is also necessary to mark all planned zones: coastal, shallow and deep - terraces for planting aquatic plants. You can limit yourself to only one terrace.

At the same time, it is important to give correct form the walls of the pit: with chernozem and clay soil, you can make vertical walls, and with sandy soil, inclined walls.

It is more convenient to start digging from the upper terrace, then moving to the second level, and lastly you need to dig the bottom. When working on terraces, you should constantly check their levelness.

The process of digging a pond is quite difficult, especially if the pond is very large, so if possible, it is better to use a mini-excavator (rent).

If water accumulates at the bottom of the hole while digging, you will have to remove it using a pump specially adapted for pumping water with impurities and solids. To pump out water, you can dig an auxiliary hole nearby.

At small sizes It is unlikely that such problems will arise in a reservoir, but in any case, when digging a pit, a lot of earth will be removed, which will have to be removed somewhere. You need to think about this in advance. You can take it outside the dacha or scatter it throughout the site, raising the level, or use the earth as an embankment for alpine slide.

How to lay a film and fill a pond with water

When the pit is dug, you need to pay attention to the condition of the bottom, and if there are sharp stones or tree roots, it is better to remove them. Before laying the film for the pond, you should pour a bedding of sand 5-10 cm thick on the bottom and on the terraces. Next, geotextiles are lined - a special synthetic non-woven material. Instead of geotextiles you can use cement screed 3-5 cm thick and leave it for 1 week until completely set. Such waterproofing will keep the sand cushion from being washed away by groundwater and protect the reservoir from various mechanical damage.

Next, you need to line the bed of the reservoir with film, leaving it in a loose position, with folds, to avoid excessive tension when filling the reservoir with water. When laying the film on the bottom of the pond, it is better to leave large folds rather than many small ones.

Shock-absorbing material - cobblestones and large pebbles - should be placed on top of the film to press the film to the base and fix it in the right places. It is necessary to leave some extra film around the edges.

Now you should connect a garden hose to a water source and supply it in the center of the film laid over the pit. The stream should be spraying - this will help reduce the chlorine content in the water. The film will gradually smooth out, taking the shape of the structure.

While filling the pond with water, you need to monitor the subsidence of the film, if necessary, moving the stones holding it.

After completely filling the pond with water, you should leave it for a day, and then cut off the excess film, leaving a reserve of 25-30 cm at its edges, which will be laid in the blind area.

Watch the video “DIY Film Pond” to better understand how this work is done:

Do-it-yourself film pond at the dacha: blind area and design

Along the edge of the pond you will need to make a ditch at least 60 cm wide and at least 30 cm deep. You need to pour sand at the bottom of the ditch, lay the edge of the geotextile and the edges of the film, tucking them in. Then the depression should be filled with a thin layer of crushed stone and the edging of the pond should be reinforced with stones, securing them together with concrete.

Here you can also use a flooring that resembles a stone in color, which must be firmly fixed so that a person, standing on the edge of a reservoir, does not slide to the bottom along with the sand and film.

Such strengthening is also done in order to prevent the soil from falling from the coastal zone into the bowl of the pond. To strengthen the blind area you can also use plastic pipes, nailing them to pegs that are firmly installed along the shoreline.

Now you need to install a submersible pump at the bottom of the pond, extend the hose to the water source and connect it to a filter for water purification. The pump hoses and cable can be hidden in the folds of the film.

After installing the pump, you need to connect it and check its operation.

At the design stage, you can plant pond plants using pots and baskets. Since the pond is equipped with a pump with a filter, real goldfish can be released here.

If desired, you can install lamps to illuminate the pond by placing the wires in a moisture-proof box along the shoreline, laying them on linoleum and covering them with sand on top.

The coastal zone can be decorated with gravel, pebbles, coastal plants can be planted, or an alpine hill can be built, especially since in this way it will be possible to use the soil from the pit.