Hello readers! I haven't written on the blog for a long time. The season for installing and adjusting windows before winter has begun. Everyone wants to stay warm.
So, many clients are interested in how we attach plastic windows. I’ll say right away that there is no single fastening.
It all depends on where the window is installed. Therefore we can use anchors or plates. In general, I got tired of answering the same questions and I decided to put them in one article, a link to which they will give to all their new clients.
I hope you find this information useful too. Read, get acquainted.
The choice of fasteners for windows primarily depends on the material of the wall into which you will mount your window:
- Brick;
- Tree;
- Aerated concrete, foam concrete, cinder block;
- Concrete.
Secondly, on the type of design and technical installation conditions:
- Loggias;
- Entrance doors;
- Window;
- Stained glass.
How to fix plastic windows. Types of fasteners
1. Anchor or frame dowel. It comes with a diameter of 8 mm, but practice shows that the optimal diameter of the frame dowel is 10 mm. In my opinion, the most reliable and convenient fastening for windows.
Available in different lengths: 72 mm, 92 mm, 112 mm, 132 mm, 152 mm, 182 mm, 202 mm. Used as follows:
IN window frame a hole is drilled using a metal drill with a diameter of 10 mm. Then, using a hammer drill, a hole is drilled in the concrete, right through the frame.
I consider this optional. Therefore, as for the dowel head, there is even a special decorative plug. And the fastening strength in both cases is almost the same.
For each type of window profile, especially popular ones, a certain type of anchor plate is produced. But since, according to the technology, the plates need to be screwed to the window frame, you can use any window plates (only for the sake of economy, of course).
By the way, regarding screwing the plates into the frame. There are so-called crab plates. That is, they cut or snap into the profile.
So, if there is a quarter in the opening, many installers do not screw such plates. The window will not fall out, and this is the most important thing. After all, a quarter holds the window.
It must be said that there are cases (nowadays less often) when window installers, grossly violating installation technology, do not use fasteners at all. Simply fix the window with wedges and fill it polyurethane foam.
I hope such cases will pass you by.
3. Wood screws. Used for attaching windows to wood. The cheapest fasteners, and this is probably the only plus.
4. Screw for concrete. I think it is only used in Europe. I went to the professional store “Fixtures” in St. Petersburg, where you can buy a lot of things, and talked with the sellers. They don't have these screws.
How to attach plastic windows to brick?
Brick is good material for the construction of buildings. But attaching plastic windows to brick is sometimes problematic. What exactly is the difficulty?
If you use a frame dowel, then it is better to drill holes in the frame for this dowel not in advance, but locally.
This is necessary in order to get the anchor directly into the middle of the brick, and not into the mortar between the bricks. Of course, no one does this (by the way, neither do I). After all, this is a waste of time.
It is advisable to choose a frame dowel of the longest possible length (minimum penetration into the brick is 6 - 10 cm). If the brick is hollow, then use the 202nd anchor.
You can use anchor plates in brick if you are sure that the brick is not hollow. But even solid brick can be of poor quality. And it will be very difficult for a non-professional to attach the plate into it.
How to attach plastic windows to wood?
The ideal option for fastening windows for wood is anchor plates. And no one can convince me of this. Frame houses or timber, plates only.
From my bitter experience, I’ll tell you how I fastened windows with screws to the top of the frame in a house made of timber. And there was a casing, and a gap of about 4 cm. A year later, the timber began to shrink, and these screws, together with the timber, went straight into the double-glazed windows.
As a result, several double-glazed windows were replaced under warranty. Got the money. After this incident, if I use screws, then only in exceptional cases, and only in the side parts of the window frame.
By the way, even during construction frame houses, professionals do not recommend using hardened screws. Wood is a living material and when moved, screws break, and a nail, for example, bends. The same principle applies to the anchor plate.
Anchor plates for wooden houses good for the following reasons:
- Quick installation;
- Compensates for thermal expansion;
- They do not affect window structures during shrinkage.
How to attach plastic windows to aerated concrete?
The aerated concrete wall is loose. Can be mounted on a frame dowel with a maximum length of 202 mm. This is the easiest and fastest way.
But it is more correct to attach plastic windows to anchor plates through a special dowel for aerated concrete. It's a little longer and more complicated. In addition, you need to buy or have a hex bat in your arsenal.
How to fix plastic windows in concrete?
If you mean concrete good quality, from which, for example, jumpers are made over window openings, then drilling such concrete with a diameter of 10 mm under a frame dowel is a bit difficult, but it is possible.
In this case, it is better to use anchor plates. But it is more efficient to attach panel and block houses to a frame dowel. It's more reliable and faster.
At the beginning of the article, I said that the choice of fasteners for windows also depends on the type of structure. So I want to talk about this type of glazing of loggias and balconies.
As a rule, the window fasteners fall into the very edge of the top concrete slab or into the edge of a brick bottom and side wall. Therefore, attaching loggias to the edge of the wall using a frame dowel can be quite dangerous.
Anchor plates are a great way out of the situation.
And finally, I would like to say about the big advantage of anchors, which is at the same time a disadvantage for anchor plates.
When the window frame is attached to anchors, at the time of drilling you level only one vertical plane. And you adjust the second vertical plane after inserting the anchor.
When fastening with anchor plates, you will have to set two vertical planes at once and only after that make holes with a hammer drill. This requires certain skill and skill.
Plastic window structures are rapidly ousting their wooden counterparts from the market. If you also decide to replace your old windows with more modern designs, it won’t hurt you to read the instructions for installing new PVC windows yourself. Professional installers charge quite a lot of money for such work. Does it make sense to overpay if you can solve all the problems yourself?
It is assumed that before the installation begins, you have already decided what window size will suit you, what configuration the new systems should have, what fittings you will order, etc. Solve these issues yourself or with the help of a consultant from the company you decide to entrust with the production of plastic windows.
Immediately before starting installation, you need to decide whether you will fasten the windows through the frame or use a method that involves the use of special fastening “ears”.
The first option is more common. However, it may seem inconvenient to you for the reason that before installation begins, you will need to remove the hinged sashes from the frame, and remove the double-glazed windows from the blind sashes.
The second option is more convenient for self-installation– you don’t have to disassemble anything, therefore, the risk of damage to the structure and violation of its tightness is minimized.
When choosing the second method, find yourself a smart assistant in advance. The assembled window weighs quite a lot, and installing it yourself is incredibly difficult.
Preparatory work
Just before the start PVC installation windows, you have to perform a number of important preparatory work.
Preparing the site
When ordering windows, check when they will be delivered to you. Start preparing the site shortly before the windows are delivered.
First step. Move all furniture and appliances away from the window opening.
Second step. Cover the floor and radiators protective film or thick fabric.
Third step. Organize workplace so that nothing bothers you, and everything you need to install the window is at hand.
First step. Remove the sashes and dismantle the double-glazed windows if you prefer the fixation method through the frame.
To remove a double-glazed window, carefully pry up the fastening bead using a simple chisel and carefully press the fastener out of the groove with the same chisel. First, remove the vertical fastening beads. Then, in the same order, remove the horizontal fasteners.
To avoid confusion in the future, be sure to label the fasteners. Their size may differ slightly, but even a difference of a fraction of a millimeter will be enough to cause gaps to appear.
Second step. Tilt the window frame. The glass unit will come out of the mounting grooves on its own. Carefully place the removed glass unit against the wall or other stable surface at an angle.
Third step. Remove the plugs from the sash canopies and unscrew the fastening bolts. Next, you need to release the top part of the casement window. To do this, turn the knob to “ventilate”. Reach the hook located in the lower canopy.
As a result, you will get a “bare” frame with jumpers.
Fourth step. Prepare holes for anchors on the inside of the window frame. Place the holes around the perimeter of the product so that there are at least 3 fastening points on each side, and at least two at the bottom and top.
The diameter of the anchors for fixing windows is 0.8-1 cm. To create holes, use a drill of the same diameter.
If the plastic window is fixed using special “ears”, disassembly of the structure can be ignored. In such a situation, all preparation comes down to fixing the fasteners from the kit to the frame using screws.
Video - How to remove glass from a PVC window
Instructions for dismantling the window
First step. Remove or tear out the sashes, depending on the design of the window.
Second step. File the box and frame at several points.
Third step. Use a crowbar to pry up each part of the structure and remove the frame from the opening. In some situations, it is more convenient to immediately find the two hundred nails that hold the window in place and pull them out.
Fourth step. Remove the thermal insulation and sealing materials that appear under the box.
Fifth step. Remove old slopes using a hammer drill. If the slopes are in good condition, you can leave them alone. At this point, focus on your plans for the further design of the slopes.
Sixth step. Pry up and remove the old window sill.
Seventh step. Get rid of the cement backing under the window sill and at the bottom of the window opening. A hammer drill will help you with this.
Eighth step. Collect construction waste in suitable containers and dispose of it in the trash. Take the remains of the dismantled window there.
Ninth step. Align the ends of the opening and clean them of dirt. Prime the surfaces.
Tenth step. Relevant only for residents of old wooden houses. Lay waterproofing material around the perimeter of the opening. In some situations, it is necessary to additionally install a wooden reinforcing box.
If necessary, the dimensions of the opening can be reduced using cement screed. At this point, focus on the conditions of your specific situation.
Installing and securing a new window
Proceed with installing the pre-prepared window.
First step. Place special plastic underlays or wooden blocks at the bottom end of the opening. Select the dimensions of the substrates so that their upper edges are connected into an even horizontal line.
The substrates are laid in the corners and in the center of the opening.
Second step. Install a “bare” or assembled frame onto the substrates, depending on the window installation method you choose. There is no need to dismantle the substrates; they will continue to perform their supporting function.
Without supports, the window may simply fall out. The anchors, no matter how often you check and tighten them, will still become loose under the weight of the structure. Therefore, to further strengthen the system, the substrate must be placed not only at the bottom, but also along the side edges, closer to the top of the opening.
Third step. Check the horizontal placement of the window structure using an ordinary water level.
If deviations are found, remove the pegs or get rid of unnecessary elements of the substrate.
Fourth step. Check that the window is installed vertically. Detected deviations are eliminated as in the previous step.
Fifth step. Proceed to secure the window with anchors in accordance with the chosen fixation method.
Fastening using the “through the frame” method
First step. Take a hammer drill and drill similar holes for fasteners in the wall directly through the holes prepared in advance in the frame.
Second step. Secure the lower part of the structure on both sides. To do this, you need to insert and secure the anchors, but you do not need to complete the fastening immediately.
Third step. Make sure the window is positioned vertically. Immediately correct deviations according to the scheme already familiar to you. If everything is fine, use a hammer drill to drill holes in the central and upper parts of the window frame. Insert and tension the anchors. Information about required quantity fasteners was given earlier.
Fourth step. Re-check that the window is installed evenly. Get rid of deviations immediately if you find them.
Fifth step. Tighten the anchors fully. Do not overtighten them, because... the frame may become deformed from excessive tension.
Video - How to install a PVC window
Plate fastening
In this case, special plates will be used to fix the window. They are placed on one or two sides of the window block. The plates are made of thick metal and have the shape of “ears”. Such elements are initially provided with holes for anchors.
With this installation method, you need to bend the mounting plate into a step. The “ear” of the plate should fit as tightly as possible to the wall surface. The second part of the plate is bolted to the frame.
Fastening is carried out with the same anchors. The window is fixed in the same order: first the bottom, then the top and the middle. At each stage of installation, be sure to check the evenness of the structure. Without maintaining vertical and horizontal levels, your window will simply become deformed over time.
Window assembly and final inspection
After securing all the anchors, proceed to reassembling the window if you initially disassembled it. The process is performed in the reverse order of disassembly.
First step. Insert the double-glazed windows into the window frame and secure them with glazing beads, first at the top, then at the bottom, and finally at the sides. A rubber hammer will help you snap the beads into place.
Second step. Reattach and secure the swing doors accordingly. Follow the reverse order of dismantling them.
Make sure the valves move normally. In its normal state, the sash does not produce any unauthorized movements when it opens 45 degrees and 90 degrees.
Third step. Complete the inspection and seal any existing gaps between the walls and the newly installed window. Fill the gaps with special mounting foam in cylinders.
At this point, the main work of installing PVC windows yourself is considered complete. At the end, all you have to do is install a plumb line, window sill, mosquito net and make slopes at your discretion.
Installing a window sill (Read the article about installing a window sill with your own hands). Wetting with water. Dust removal
Installing a window sill Laying out cement mortar
Window sill installation. Wetting with water. Dust removal
Window sill installation. Alignment. Grout
Window sill installation. Drying
Window sill installation. Finished work
Happy installation!
Technology for installing plastic windows in brick house differs from the rules for installing PVC profile products in concrete or panel walls. It is important to understand these differences and avoid mistakes before starting installation work.
Installation of plastic windows requires a set of tools and consumables.
Plastic windows in a brick house can be installed on anchor plates or bolts. Their size depends on the depth of the quarters into which the product will be attached, as well as the quality of the brick from which the walls are laid. It can be gas silicate, foam concrete, etc.
//www.youtube.com/watch?v=PkRy0THGINA
If the installation is carried out in a secondary housing stock, before installing the window, you must first remove it from the opening old frame. To do this you will need:
- removing the sashes from their hinges;
- deleting the old one;
- dismantling the window sill and ebb;
- removal of roofing felt and tow, once used to insulate the opening;
- chipping old plaster if it is necessary to align the geometry of the opening.
For dismantling you will need small size crowbar If the frames are quite massive, then to facilitate the breaking process you can use hand saw woodworking or jigsaw.
To drill holes for fasteners, you will need a hammer drill, and to attach the frame to anchors, you will need a screwdriver. You will also need a construction knife with replaceable blades, a level, of good quality construction guns for foam and sealant.
What materials are needed to install a plastic window?
Installing plastic windows is a multi-stage process. At each stage it is necessary to use various consumables:
- mounting wedges;
- professional foam;
- PSUL or acrylic sealant;
- water vapor barrier tapes;
- anchor plates or bolts.
- cyacrine;
- sealant.
Mounting wedges are needed to level the level; if necessary, they are placed under the stand profile.
Polyurethane foam — insulating material for filling the assembly seam, i.e.
space between the wall and window frame. Professional pistol foam must meet temperature conditions season in which installation is planned plastic window.
PSUL (pre-compressed self-expanding sealing tape) is glued along the perimeter of the window frame and expands from the street side of the seam - from the quarter edge of the frame. In appearance it resembles gray foam rubber. If there are no quarters, you will need a special acrylic sealant.
A waterproofing tape made of membrane material is placed under the flashing to provide ventilation and protect the bottom seam from moisture.
Sealant is necessary to fill the seams where the window sill joins the slopes and the window frame.
How to attach a window to an opening?
The rules for installing plastic windows are explained in detail by GOST R 52749-2007 “Window installation seams with vapor-permeable self-expanding tapes. Specifications" This state standard prescribes that before you begin installing a window in an opening, stick PSUL around its perimeter.
This self-expanding material is self-installation This is a layer that cannot be covered with plaster, putty or painted over. Otherwise, the insulating material will not perform its functions.
When inserting a frame into a window opening, you should adhere to the tolerances. Deviation of the window frame in horizontal and vertical plane should be no more than 1.5 mm per 1 m of length, but no more than 3 mm over the entire height of the window.
//www.youtube.com/watch?v=J4zdj8hP5As
The frame is attached to brick wall By following rules:
- from internal corner the vertical distance between the frame and the first fastening element should not exceed 150-180 mm;
- from the impost to the horizontal fasteners, this distance is recommended to be 120-180 mm;
- vertical placement of anchors - with a gap of 700 mm for windows made of white plastic and 600 mm for laminated profiles.
The inserted block must be checked for deviation from the level and foamed around the perimeter.
Assembly seam construction
PSUL around the perimeter and foam insulation are only 2 parts of the three-layer filling of the installation seam described by GOST.
After foaming the frame, it is necessary to remove the installation mounting wedges from under the stand profile and fill the resulting voids with foam. For better adhesion, the inner surface of the window opening can be moistened with a spray before foaming.
Before installing the drip sill, a waterproofing, vapor-permeable tape should be applied to the outside. The ebb is screwed to the stand profile with self-tapping screws. The edges of the ebb should be folded onto the outer slopes to avoid moisture getting under it.
WITH inside A vapor barrier is glued around the perimeter of the window (except for the lower horizontal part of the frame), which provides an additional sealing layer to the installation seam and insulates it from moisture. This tape is available in various widths and can be applied both under wet finishing of slopes (plaster) and dry finishing (slopes made of polystyrene foam or plastic). Released and universal tapes downhill.
A vapor barrier is also installed under the window sill board: full-butyl tape with a foil layer.
Assembling the installed window
The frame installed in the opening and foamed around the perimeter must be assembled.
Double-glazed windows are inserted into blind, non-opening parts. To glaze (fasten) an installed double-glazed window, you will need a medium-sized plexiglass hammer. The beads are cut at an angle of 45° and inserted into the frame around the perimeter of the glass unit with some force. In order for the glazing bead to finally snap into place, it must be lightly knocked down with a hammer.
If installed window unit has opening doors, you need to hang them on hinges. This task is not difficult to cope with, since modern window fittings are very easy to use.
But putting the sash in place is not enough. You should check its functionality and, if necessary, adjust it in the hinge part using a special adjusting key.
To check how accurately a plastic window is level, you need to open the sash. If it does not slam shut or open wider by inertia, it means the block is installed correctly.
Installing the window sill and slopes
The installation of wooden windows, like plastic ones, cannot be considered complete if the window sill is not installed. The window sill board snaps into place and is attached to the stand profile.
If, during dismantling, voids are identified under the window, you can fill them with insulation, for example, rolled or tiled, and then install a window sill.
For final finishing opening, you need to understand how to properly install the slopes. They can be plastered or assembled from sandwich panels made of expanded polystyrene foam.
With the latter option, the panels are cut to size locally, taking into account the geometry of each slope. A U-shaped plastic profile, otherwise called a starting profile, is screwed to the frame close to the slopes. A panel is inserted into it. The voids foam.
Foam is a polyurethane foam sealant that, due to its properties, requires a certain amount of time to fully expand and harden. Typically from 1 to 24 hours.
Where they adjoin the wall, the sandwich panels are covered with a decorative profile, most often F-shaped.
The junctions of the slopes and the frame to the window sill are sealed with sealant.
Who should you trust to install the window?
Mount a PVC profile window and install wooden window- not the same thing. Installing windows in a brick house involves certain nuances. You need to have everything on hand necessary tool, including adjusting keys for window fittings, as well as a supply of fasteners and special mounting tapes.
It is equally important to choose the right mounting foam and sealant. As an alternative to the latter, you can use the so-called liquid plastic. This is a special adhesive-sealant that hardens very quickly, but also creates a particularly strong sealed seam.
If you are not sure that you can handle the installation yourself, it is better to seek the help of specialists.
//www.youtube.com/watch?v=qMBqdgWXysU
In this article I will tell you in detail how to install plastic windows with your own hands. I will give some instructions for installing windows, which includes dismantling the old window and all the details of how to properly install plastic windows in an old or new window opening.
Does it make sense to install plastic windows yourself?
I’ll say right away that there is nothing complicated about how to install a plastic window yourself. This does not require special skills or expensive professional equipment. The technology for installing plastic windows is quite simple and consists of dismantling the old window and installing a new one. In terms of time, dismantling an old window takes from 30 to 90 minutes, and installing a new plastic window in its place takes on average another 2 hours (an average window up to 2x2 m in size). In total, it will take you 2.5-3.5 hours to replace one window. Agree, this is not much. So, if you wish, in approximately one weekend, you can replace the windows yourself, changing 2-3 windows a day. The savings will be about $40-60 per window. This is how much window replacement services cost today. Sometimes the price for installation is set as a percentage of the cost of new windows and in different regions and companies ranges from 10 to 40% of the cost of new metal-plastic windows. Dismantling the old window and delivering a new one, as well as finishing the slopes, if you order installation of new windows from them, are most often done free of charge.
If you nevertheless decide to entrust the installation of windows to builders, then below I will list the guarantees that you have the right to demand:
- if you buy windows yourself and not from an installation company, then you can only be given a guarantee on: seams, their filling (foam, silicone), verticality and horizontality of the corresponding parts and the operability of the window for about a year after installation;
- if you buy windows at the same place where you order installation work, then you will also be provided with a warranty on the fittings, on average it is 1 year, maximum 3-5 years for luxury expensive windows.
When you install windows yourself, you have the right to request a warranty on the fittings from the organization where you buy the windows. And the responsibility for the seams and their filling remains with you.
I will say one thing for sure, if you have one free weekend, hard work and a desire to save money, then following the recommendations that I will describe below, you will be able to replace the windows in your home no worse than any installation team. Moreover, the word “crew” is applicable to the installation of windows, which is very conditional. Since, in fact, the installation is carried out by 1 person, and another one simply supplies the tools and holds the window at the right moment.
Correct measurement of a plastic window
To order plastic windows from the seller, you need to make preliminary measurements.
To do this, you first need to determine what kind of window opening you have - with or without a quarter. For clarity, in the figure below I show a schematic view of the opening with a quarter (A) and without (B).
Scheme of a window opening with and without a quarter
We measure windows without a quarter
Installation of windows without a quarter occurs as follows. If your house is new, then the windows are installed in an empty window opening. And in order to order a window, you need to subtract 5 cm from the vertical size of the opening - this will be the height of your window. And subtract 3 cm from the horizontal size of the opening - this will be the width of your window. Subsequently, when installing the window yourself, these 3 cm will be filled with polyurethane foam (1.5 cm on each side of the window). And 5 cm is 1.5 cm from the top of the window to fill with polyurethane foam and 3.5 cm to the window sill under the window.
You also need to take measurements of the length and width of the window sill and the external ebb and add at least 5 cm to these dimensions so that the window sill “crashes” a little on the right and left into the wall. For an inexperienced installer, you can take 20-30 cm as a reserve; the excess is cut off during installation. In general, window sills and ebbs come in a standardized width (10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60 cm) and length (up to 6 m), but in any case you must provide minimum dimensions so that they bring you the best suitable window sill and ebb from those available.
We measure windows and a quarter
We measure the size of the window opening horizontally between the quarters at the narrowest point. Add 3 cm to this size (1.5 cm on each side of the window). This will be the width of our window. And vertically we simply measure the distance from the bottom of the opening to the upper quarter, we do not add or subtract anything to it. This will be the vertical size of our window. We measure the window sill and ebb in the same way as in the version of the opening without a quarter.
Thus, we get 6 sizes:
- window height;
- window width;
- window sill length;
- window sill width;
- tide length;
- low tide width.
Plastic window sizes
If your house is not new, and an old window is still installed in the window opening, then measurements are made in the same way. Only for the window opening, you take the outer dimensions of the window frame, since it will need to be dismantled.
When ordering a window, be sure to check whether the package includes:
- windowsill;
- Plugs are provided for plastic window sills. When ordering them, you must indicate what the width of the window sill (overhang from the wall) will be. There are 300 and 600 mm, but this is the total length, this includes two ends on one leg, and if, for example, the total length of the overhangs does not exceed 300 mm, then a plug will suit you - a 300 mm plug;
- installation profile (also known as mounting profile, sweet clover, heel, window sill profile, etc.);
- fastening elements for windows - anchor plates.
If not, they must be ordered separately.
Also, when ordering a window, in addition to its size, you will also be asked for such important characteristics as:
- window profile type: 3, 4 or 5 chamber;
- type of double-glazed window: 1, 2, 3-chamber;
- window opening method: blind, with opening, tilt-and-turn with ventilation, tilt-and-turn with ventilation and micro-ventilation.
Methods for installing plastic windows, their pros and cons
Today, there are two ways to install metal-plastic windows: installation of windows with unpacking and installation without unpacking the window.
.png)
Diagram of a plastic window
So, the method of installing a window with unpacking involves preliminary disassembly of the window: the glazing beads are removed, the double-glazed windows are removed from the frame and put aside while the window frame is being installed, then the frame is attached to the wall through dowels, after which the double-glazed windows and glazing beads are installed back.
Installation of a window with "unpick"
Installation without unpacking does not require the removal of double-glazed windows and glazing beads, since the frame is not attached to the wall through and through, but with the help of pre-fixed frames. outer surface fasteners.
Installing a window without "unpacking"
At the same time, the unpacking window installation method has several disadvantages.
For example, installation with unpacking sometimes leads to fogging of the glass unit during operation. Removing and reinstalling glazing beads, especially without such experience, often affects their appearance (visible scratches, chips). During the installation of windows, double-glazed windows must be placed in a place that is safe for their integrity, otherwise they can be accidentally broken, especially if left near the installation site. The installation method itself is more labor-intensive and takes longer than installation without unpacking (on average, installing each window will take 30 minutes longer, and if you are installing plastic windows for the first time, then about 60 minutes).
Installing plastic windows without unpacking does not have the disadvantages listed above, since the double-glazed window does not need to be removed from the frame.
Now, regarding the strength of the fastening. The unpacking method is considered more durable, especially if you fasten the frame right through to the wall with large, long anchors. Therefore, it’s worth stopping at if:
- Are you planning to install windows on the 15th floor? multi-storey building and higher. On such high floors there is a lot of windage and gusts of wind, especially if the house borders on lower buildings. Below 15 floors you don't need to unpack the windows.
- Your windows are very large (2x2 m or more), then it is better to choose the unpacking or combined method of fastening. The balcony block can be attached without unpacking.
In private houses, where windows are usually installed in standard medium sizes, and the number of storeys rarely exceeds 4 floors, of course, it is better to choose the method of installing metal-plastic windows without unpacking. The fastening strength without unpacking will be more than enough.
And given that our site is dedicated to issues of private construction, then we will analyze in detail a method of attaching a plastic window, which is more suitable for low-rise construction - without unpacking.
Window installation tool
- screwdriver;
- level;
- spray foam gun;
- polyurethane foam at the rate of 1-3 cylinders per 1 window (it’s difficult to say exactly, as it depends on the size of the window and the filling of the cylinder);
- perforator;
- silicone gun;
- set of hexagons;
- jigsaw;
- stationery knife;
- pencil;
- roulette.
Sequence of installation of plastic windows
In order to understand how to install a window correctly, go to I will briefly list the main stages of installation, after which we will dwell in detail on the main stages:
- dismantle the old window (with a window sill, if necessary);
- preparing something new metal-plastic window to installation;
- we apply markings to the window frame in places of subsequent fastening;
- We attach fasteners to the window frame;
- we make recesses in the window opening in the places where the fasteners will be attached;
- We level the plastic window;
- we attach the window to the window opening;
- we attach the ebb (it can also be mounted at the very end);
- pre-adjust window fittings;
- foam the gaps between the frame and the window opening;
- install a window sill;
- We make final adjustments to window fittings.
Removing the old window
- On blind windows, remove the glazing beads, then the glass. On opening windows, remove the sashes from their hinges. If the glass in the sashes holds tightly, then the sashes can be removed directly with them. If the windows are very old, the frames move diagonally, then for safety reasons it is better to remove the glass from the sashes first.
- We make cuts in several places of the frame. For this it is better to use regular saw. Sometimes for such purposes they use a grinder with a circle on concrete (this will produce a lot of smoke). Very important! In this case, it is categorically impossible to cut with a regular circle on metal, as it can jam or even break. And considering that the disk spins at an average speed of about 7000 rpm, this is very, very dangerous. It is also strictly forbidden to insert a disc with teeth for wood into the grinder.
Making cuts when dismantling an old window wooden frame
Then we take it out piece by piece with a crowbar, a hammer drill with a spatula attachment, or other available tools.
Dismantling an old wooden frame using a hammer drill and a crowbar
Sometimes the wooden frame is left if it is in good condition. But it is better to dismantle it and attach it to the wall material. Then the size of the skylight will be larger, and the fastening will be more reliable than to wood, and the wooden frame will not rot over time.
- We dismantle the old window sill. If it is wooden, then we treat it in the same way as with wooden frame: make a cut and remove it piece by piece with a crowbar. If it is concrete, then we break it with a jackhammer, if there is such a tool, if not, then with a hammer and a crowbar or, again, with a grinder with a circle on the concrete. If your window sills are concrete, in good condition, and they suit you, then you can leave them. But it is important to remember that a plastic window sill is “warmer”. Also, if you leave the old window sill, there is almost always a large gap left between it and the window frame, and even if it is sealed with a mixture using a mesh, cracks are inevitable. In this case, there is only one way out - to cover the top of the window sill with tiles.
- We clean the window opening from debris and dust.
Preparing a plastic window for installation
If the window is opening (not fixed), then during installation, the window must be in the closed position. This is very important, because if the window is open, for example, for ventilation, then the foam, which we will later fill the space between the frame and the window opening, will bend the frame in a semicircle. The window must remain closed for at least 12 hours after foaming. Then you can open it. To ensure that the window is definitely closed, it is advisable simply not to install the handle until the installation of the window is completed. Otherwise, one of your household members may unknowingly open the window when you leave for a couple of minutes. If there is no handle, then there will simply be nothing to worry about.
Do not remove the protective tape from the surface of the window until the window installation process is completed, and if you are finishing the slopes, then until the finishing work is completed.
Installation of a plastic window
- We apply markings to the window frame in the places of subsequent fastening. Fastening is carried out on all 4 sides of the window frame every 70 cm. Sometimes they are fastened less frequently, but we do not recommend more than 100 cm. The indentation of the extreme fastener from the corner of the window frame is usually made in the range of 5-15 cm.The only thing is that you don’t have to attach the frame from below if you have a window with a stand profile.
Diagram and photo of the appearance of the stand profile
- We attach fasteners to the window frame. The fasteners are attached to the window frame in such a way that the self-tapping screw is secured in the metal located inside the frame (a bent metal channel). For this purpose, it is better to take special screws - for metal (diameter 4 mm). They come with a drill at the end. If you use regular self-tapping screws, then first you need to make a hole in the frame with a drill with a diameter of 4 mm (4-5 cm long), and only then you can fix it fastener using a regular self-tapping screw with a diameter of 5 mm.If the windows are large (2x2 m or more), then the drill is 8 mm in diameter and the self-tapping screw is 12 mm in diameter.Special anchor plates can be used as fastening elements. Sometimes they are also mounted on U-shaped drywall hangers.
Fastening elements for installing a window into a window opening
But their cost is approximately the same - from $0.05 (for wholesale purchase) to $0.15, and the thickness of the metal is often different: the anchor plate is usually 1.1-1.5 mm thick, and the U-shaped suspension from 0.5 to 1 mm. The thicker the metal, the better, of course.
Fastening elements for a plastic window made from U-shaped hangers
- We make recesses in the window opening in the places where the fasteners will be attached. To do this, we insert the frame with fasteners already attached to its surface into the window opening. In those places where the fasteners will be attached to the opening, we knock out recesses according to the size of the fasteners and to a depth of 2-4 cm (to the wall - brick or stone). We will drown the fasteners in them. We do this so that it will be easier to finish the slopes later. There is no need to add an extra layer of plaster to hide the fasteners.
Recesses knocked out in the window opening for fasteners
Important: If you have a window without a mounting strip, then when inserting it into the opening, you need to raise it to the height of the window sill, so that later the window sill can be placed under the frame, and not attached to the joint with the window frame. To do this, place blocks of wood, pieces of foam plastic or brick under the frame. If the window has a mounting strip, then this is not necessary. The mounting strip just raises the window frame to the height of the window sill. There is no need to attach the mounting strip to the frame; it is usually supplied already attached.
- We level the window. To do this, we place, for example, wooden wedges (blocks) under the frame in the right places. the right size). The wedges are always positioned strictly under transverse parts frames: under the horizontal part along the line of the vertical ones, and vice versa. We place the wedges in the following sequence: First, the lower two, which will expose the lower edge and, accordingly, the upper one to the horizon.At this stage it is convenient to temporarily secure the top anchor plate to prevent the window from dangling. Then two on top that will secure the frame up and down. And only then, the remaining wedges left and right, and always on both sides, both below and above the window. If there is an impost, then it must also be wedged, and it is also necessary to control that everything vertical racks stood in the same plane. The longest part of the installation is the alignment of the wedges. As a result, the frame should be level both vertically and horizontally. This work is easier to do with two people: one holds the window, the other places wedges under the frame.
Installing a window by level
- We attach the window to the window opening. After we have the window perfectly level, we can finally fix it in the window opening. Windows are usually secured with dowels, sometimes with anchors. Fastening with anchors is considered more durable, but also more expensive. So the choice is yours. I will say one thing - a dowel driven into concrete can withstand a load of 60 kilograms. So in this case, as for me, it is more than enough. Dowels are used with a diameter of 6-8 mm and a length of 75-80 mm. For fastening to wall materials such as hollow brick, shell rock and foam concrete, anchors with a diameter of 6-8 mm are used. For fastening to wood - self-tapping screws with a diameter of 8 mm.
- We attach the ebb (it can also be mounted at the very end). It is advisable to install the sill under the window to prevent water seepage at the junction of the sill with the window frame. But if there is no way to fix the ebb under the frame, then we attach the ebb to the window frame with metal screws with a diameter of 4 mm and a length of 9 mm.
- Pre-adjust window fittings. Window adjustment is done using hexagons in the area of the window hinges. As a result, the sash should open and close freely without touching the rest of the window. Plus, if you slightly open the door, it should not close on its own (as usually happens with a refrigerator door) or open, but should remain in the position in which you left it. Sometimes, when closing/opening a window, it may scratch in the places where the locking hardware is installed. To fix this, you just need to unscrew the screw on this element and move the element itself 0.5-1 cm higher or lower.
- We foam the gaps between the frame and the window opening.
Filling construction foam space between frame and window opening
It is very important here that the filling is 100%, without voids or interruptions. At the same time, if the gap between the window and the opening is more than 2 cm, then it is advisable to foam it several times with a break of 1-2 hours. Then the expansion of the foam is not a “disastrous” factor. And it saves foam that would have to be cut off. If windows are installed at temperatures lower than +5 degrees, then winter or all-season foam should be used. If the temperature is above + 5 degrees, then regular summer polyurethane foam will do.
After the foam hardens, it must be protected from ultraviolet radiation. Since this can already be called part of the work on finishing the slope, this work can be postponed until the finishing of the slopes. But if you do not plan to finish them at all, or if you do, but later than in a month, then it is better to close the foam immediately, since under the open rays of the sun the foam will become unusable. We cover it with either a strong cement-sand mortar (cement: sand - 1:2) or tile adhesive (for example, Ceresit SM 11), or special tape PSUL(vapor permeable self-expanding sealing tape). The only thing is that the tape is quite expensive (about $3 per sheet), so the first two options are more often used.
Window sill installation
- Typically, window sills come in standard length and width, i.e. with a reserve in length and width. Therefore, first you need to trim it. To do this, you can use an electric jigsaw, grinder, or saw with small teeth.
Trimming the window sill to the desired level
- Then we move the window sill to the stand profile (there should be one). Then we level the window sill, placing wooden blocks, pieces of eps, brick, or even laminate cuttings under it.
Installing a window sill by level
It is better to install the plugs so that they go into the wall. And it is advisable to glue them with super glue, since acrylic and silicone do not glue them.
As a result, your window sill should be level in two horizontal directions and not sag anywhere (check by pressing with your hand). Sometimes the window sill is installed with a slight slope away from the window. This is done so that condensation that may form on the window does not flow under the window. And if you do such a slope, then it is very small, only about 3 degrees.
Load plastic window sill heavy object
If the window sill is not weighted down, the foam will bend it upward.
Blowing construction foam into a cavity under a plastic window sill
- 24 hours after foaming, cut off the remaining foam protruding from the cavity under the window sill with a regular stationery knife.
- Sometimes, due to the unevenness of the window sill, after its installation there remains a small gap between the top of the window sill and the window frame. It needs to be filled with silicone. Immediately wipe off any remaining silicone with a rag. But considering that silicone sometimes turns black over time from fungus and spoils appearance windows and window sills, it is better to prevent the appearance of such a gap. This can be done by screwing Z-shaped galvanized plates to the window sill profile before installing the window sill. By rehearsing with trimming the window sill, you can achieve a snug fit of the window sill. Also, such plates simplify the installation of the window sill.
Z-shaped galvanized steel plates to ensure a tight fit of the window to the frame
Final window adjustment
Now you can screw the handle to the window and remove the protective tape from its surface. If you still have to finish the slopes, then it is better to remove the protective tape after finishing them.
The most common mistakes when installing windows
There are few of them, but they all ultimately affect the service life of the window, as well as the ease of its use:
- The window is mounted with glazing beads facing outwards. This error leads to the fact that you can easily and silently enter the house by simply removing the glazing beads from the window and removing the double-glazed windows.
- The window is not leveled. As a result, the window opens and closes poorly.
- The polyurethane foam is not covered with anything and is left open under the influence of ultraviolet radiation. As a result, the foam becomes unusable.
Open polyurethane foam
- The measurements are taken incorrectly, or the window is simply mounted low, and the window sill ultimately does not fit under the window. It has to be joined to the window frame.
- The window is not secured with anything, simply filling the space between the window frame and the opening with polyurethane foam. If the opening is a quarter, then this leads, at most, to the appearance of cracks on the slopes, since fastening “on foam” cannot even be called fastening. Such a connection is mobile, especially over time. If the window is without a quarter, then as a result the window may simply fall out; I am personally familiar with one such example. So it’s important to remember - foam is not fastener. The window must withstand loads without foam.
I hope that this article will help you save on installing plastic windows in your home, and also do this simple job correctly and without errors so that your windows serve you for a long time. If you decide to turn to the services of an installation organization, then it will be easier for you to understand what the builders do at each stage of installation, which will allow you to control the process competently.
Attention: All prices are for 2011.
Today, owners of houses and apartments are massively replacing old wooden windows with practical and durable PVC structures. And this choice is quite justified for a number of reasons:
- Due to increased thermal insulation, material costs for heating are significantly reduced.
- High functionality and modern materials allow you to refuse additional work window maintenance: tinting the frames to give them an aesthetic appearance; caulking cracks to insulate windows for the winter; removing the insulation from the window in the spring; pulling gauze over the sashes to protect against mosquitoes and other midges and other work that is implied in the operation of wooden window structures.
- A sealed double-glazed window well insulates the room from noise, allowing you to preserve home comfort and protecting the peace of the owners.
- The structures have a long service life while maintaining impeccable functionality and aesthetic appearance.
- The cost of a plastic window is lower than a similar wooden product. For example, the price of an unpainted double wooden frame without glass measuring 120x90 cm is 3,600 rubles, and a plastic window is 5,500 rubles. However, a wooden window will still need to be glassed and painted, which means additional time and materials. Whereas the plastic window is already ready for installation.
Those who are going to take on the task of installing plastic windows with their own hands often lack basic knowledge of how to do it correctly. That’s why we present this article here in the form of instructions to help owners who want to carry out the installation themselves.
Installing plastic windows has a number of nuances. For example, PVC windows are not so universal designs. And their use has a number of limitations. Thus, it is not recommended to use plastic windows in cold rooms without heating (verandas, canopies, attics, garages, bathhouses, etc.). By the way, window production and installation companies prefer not to talk about this. In addition, there may be problems during installation window profiles PVC in multi-storey buildings above the 4th floor.
When choosing a contractor to replace windows in your house, you may encounter the fact that the craftsmen simply will not delve into the intricacies of this issue. There are only a few people who have control over the situation and can comprehensively cover it.
First, let's try to figure out the question: does it even make sense to install PVC windows with your own hands? Contrary to popular belief, installing windows is not that difficult. You don't need to stock up to do it. professional equipment and gain specialized experience over a long period of time. The installation procedure itself consists of two stages:
- dismantling the old structure;
- installation of a new plastic window.
Usually dismantling takes from 0.5 to 1.5 hours. The actual installation of the window (we take an average window measuring 2x2 m) will take another couple of hours. It turns out that it will take a maximum of three and a half hours to replace one window. Therefore, during Saturday-Sunday you can freely change at least 2 windows without resorting to the help of specialists. Considering that installers charge $40-60 for installing each window, we get quite a good saving. Some companies set installation costs as a percentage of the cost of the windows. This amount varies among different specialists and is about 10-40% of the price that is proposed to be paid for the windows. Also, specialized companies can deliver free of charge when ordering windows from them. new design to your home and dismantling.
When entrusting the installation of windows to specialists, you can demand the following guarantees:
- When purchasing windows from a third-party company, installers provide a guarantee only for installation joints and their filling, correct geometry individual elements and functionality of the window structure for 1 year after the work has been completed. Since self-installation practically deprives you of the warranty on window structures, you need to be more careful in choosing products. It is better to prefer windows manufactured at the factory, in compliance with all technical requirements and conditions. Handicraft products are a “pig in a poke”, the quality and functionality of which can present an unpleasant surprise. In this regard, to purchase window structures, it is advisable to contact directly manufacturing company operating in the market long time and having good feedback from numerous clients. By the way, if you order windows in winter or spring period(i.e. out of season), you can get a significant discount;
- By purchasing windows from a company that carries out installation work, the customer receives a warranty on the fittings - from one to 5 years (the more expensive the windows, the more longer term guarantees);
- If the windows are installed with your own hands, then a warranty on the fittings must be requested at the place where the structures were purchased. You will have to take full responsibility for the quality of the seams.
Do-it-yourself installation of PVC windows should be done if you have:
- a couple of free days (weekends as an option);
- hard work and desire to learn something new;
- desire to save money.
If all of the above is present, then the recommendations outlined in this article will allow you to successfully replace the windows in your house, doing it no worse than a professional installation team. Actually, a whole team is not required to install the window; two people will be enough, one of whom will carry out the installation, and the other will hold the structure and serve necessary tools. Despite the apparent complexity, self-installation of PVC windows is a fairly simple process, representing a combination of several simple operations performed in a given sequence. Before you begin installation, you need to order a window, and this requires correct preliminary measurements. So…
Window measurements: everything you need to know
First, we determine the type of window opening.
It can be of two types: either with a quarter or without a quarter.
Taking measurements of a window without a quarter
A clean window opening is the easiest to measure. Such an opening is found only in a new house. We measure the opening itself in the vertical plane and subtract 5 centimeters from the resulting figure. We have height. Of these 5 centimeters, 1.5 centimeters will be filled with mounting foam at the top of the window, and 3.5 centimeters will be laid for installing the window sill. Similarly, we measure the opening in the horizontal plane, subtract 3 centimeters for the gaps (1.5 cm on the right and left) and get the width of the window.
Next, measure the length and width of the ebb and window sill. To the resulting dimensions you need to add from 5 to 20 centimeters in order to “embed” the window sill a little into the wall on both sides. If you are getting down to business for the first time, then set the size of the window sill larger - during installation, all excess will be cut off. As a rule, window sills and ebbs have a standardized width (10-60 cm) and length (up to six meters). Having minimal dimensions, installers will be able to select and deliver the most suitable parts.
We take measurements of the window and a quarter
Width: measure the opening in the horizontal plane between the quarters and add three centimeters to the resulting figure (one and a half centimeters on each side). Height: measure the distance from the bottom edge of the opening to the edge of the top quarter. There is no need to add or subtract anything from the resulting figure.
The window sill and ebb are measured, as in the first option.
As a result, after all the measurements made, we should have written down:
- window height and width;
- length and width of the ebb;
- length and width of the window sill.
When replacing old windows, the previous structure is located in the opening, which means that the opening itself cannot be measured. Therefore, it is necessary to take measurements from the window frame, which will subsequently be dismantled.
When ordering a window, try to find out what comes with the windows. Typically the following elements are included:
- windowsill;
- end caps. To choose the right plugs, you need to indicate the width of the window sill (the protruding part from the wall);
- installation profile;
- anchor plates – structural fastening elements.
If these parts are not included in the kit, you will have to purchase them additionally.
In addition to dimensions, other data may be required:
- profile type (number of cameras);
- double-glazed window option (number of glasses and air chambers);
- type of opening window sashes. The most common: swing, tilt and turn with ventilation, combined. In addition, in some cases, blind windows are installed that cannot be opened. The type of opening is determined by the fittings installed in the structure. The ease of use, functionality and durability of the window depend on the type and quality of the fittings. There are several types of window openings. For convenient ventilation, the window should be equipped with tilt-and-turn fittings. Blind versions of the sashes are unsuitable for ventilation; conventional hinged sashes without turning are inconvenient.
Thermal conductivity and sound insulation of the window: so that noise and cold do not sneak into the house
Thermal conductivity of plastic windows
In addition to the manufacturer, when choosing a window, it is also necessary to take into account such quality as the thermal conductivity of the structure. According to SNiPs and territorial building codes, the heat transfer resistance coefficient of a window varies depending on the climatic conditions of the region of residence. Structures that are installed in residential premises should not have a heat transfer resistance lower than that specified for the specific region of residence.
Thermal conductivity directly depends on the design and type of glass used in the double-glazed window. If you order windows with energy-saving glasses, then the thermal insulation of structures increases by 10-15%. The cost of energy-saving glass is about 250 rubles. for 1 sq. m.
The thermal conductivity of a window may decrease due to poor-quality installation, or less often due to manufacturing defects. Very often, in the process of improper installation, a chip or crack appears on a double-glazed window, and the structure loses one of its main qualities - tightness. Visually this manifests itself as fogging inner surface glass As a result, in winter the room will become colder, and the house will have to be heated more.
To improve the thermal conductivity parameters of the window, you can prepare a support profile. From the point of view of thermal conductivity, the stand profile is the weakest point in the window structure. To attach the drain, you will have to drill it, which will further worsen the thermal conductivity parameters. To normalize the thermal insulation properties of the window, the internal volume of the stand profile can be filled with polyurethane foam. This should be done the day before installing the window so that the foam completely hardens. Foaming of the stand profile is not provided for by GOST; window companies also do not practice this operation.
Soundproofing properties of plastic windows
This parameter is essential if there is a busy highway near the house or Railway. However, it is always more pleasant if external noise from the street does not penetrate inside the house. And this cannot be achieved without high-quality window sound insulation.
Methods for installing PVC windows: to unpack or not to unpack – that is the question!
When installing windows, you need to choose the type of installation - with unpacking (unpacking) or without unpacking. Want to understand how these two methods differ from each other? Take a look at the diagram of a plastic window.
- Frame– one of the main elements of the window. The frame is formed from reinforced PVC profile and several sealed chambers. The number of cameras can vary from two or more.
- Double-glazed window- the largest element of the window, occupies about 80% of its area. It is a sealed structure consisting of glass. Depending on the number of glasses and air gaps between them, it can be single-chamber, double-chamber, etc. The double-glazed window fits tightly to the frame due to the seal.
- Glazing beads– parts that allow you to mechanically secure the glass unit to the frame.
- Impost– a divider, thanks to which the window is divided into several sashes. There are single-leaf, double-leaf, three-leaf, etc. designs.
- Blind sash– a sash without an opening mechanism.
- Transom- opening door.
- Window sill(other names – bottom, mounting, stand) profile – load-bearing element window design. It is necessary for correct installation and fastening a plastic window sill and external drain indoors.
- Accessories– all moving parts of the structure intended for opening, closing, fixing the transom when ventilating the room.
Window installation method with unpacking
(in some regions the term “unpacking” is used, the essence is the same). This method is based on preliminary disassembly of the structure: glazing beads and double-glazed windows. After fixing the frame to the wall throughly, all removed elements are installed again.
To quickly and correctly unpack the structure, you need a strong knife or chisel. We insert a knife blade or chisel between the glazing bead and the frame, and with gentle blows on the handle, knock the glazing bead out of the groove until a gap appears. Then we bend the knife (chisel) and push the elements apart with the wide side. We consistently do this with all the glazing beads that hold the glass unit in the sash. It is not recommended to do this procedure with the sharp end of a knife, since it increases the risk of damaging the window or glazing bead. To remove the glass unit, be sure to wear gloves, otherwise you will injure your hands on the glass. sharp corners designs. If the window is not solid and there are sashes, remove them. If there is a transom in one of the sashes, it is easier to remove the entire assembly without removing the glass unit. That's it, the structure is ready for installation.
Disadvantages of the method: more labor-intensive, takes longer than installation without unpacking (on average, 30-60 minutes are added for each window). Often, fogging of the glass unit occurs in a window installed using this method. In addition, the appearance of the glazing beads may be damaged (scratches, chips) if they are removed/installed carelessly. It is important to perform all actions clearly and carefully. After removing the packages, you need to put them in a safe place where there is no chance of accidentally touching them and breaking them.
Advantages and scope of application of the method: installation of windows with unpacking is more reliable and provides a strong fixation of the frame to the wall. This method should be chosen in the following cases:
— it is planned to fasten windows in multi-story buildings (from the 15th floor). When installing windows on the lower floors, where there is no wind and gusts of wind, they do not need to be unpacked;
— installation of structures of considerable size is to be done. However, in this case, combined installation is allowed (the balcony block is attached without unpacking).
Window installation method without unpacking
This method does not require disassembling the structure. That is, there is no need to remove double-glazed windows and glazing beads. The frame is secured to the wall not with dowels, but with fasteners pre-installed on the outside of the wall.
Advantages and scope of application of the method: Installing windows without unpacking saves time, shortening the process as much as possible. This method is recommended for use where there is no need for increased fastening strength: when replacing standard windows in private houses, and also, as mentioned earlier, in multi-storey buildings below the 15th floor.
Installation of windows with and without unpacking: sequence, features, advice from professionals
The installation of plastic windows is specific, so this work requires a special set of tools and materials, without which it is almost impossible to install windows correctly and accurately. If you can’t buy the things you need in a specialized store, you can contact a window company - the professionals will definitely find what you’re missing.
- plumb and level
- screwdriver and hammer drill
- drill with a set of drills
- gun and mounting foam;
- hacksaw or jigsaw
- small crowbar or pry bar
- silicone gun
- chisel or knife with a wide blade
- mounting wedges
- tape measure and pencil
- roll moisture-proofing material
- sheets of iron (galvanized) and metal scissors (required for self-made drains)
The main stages of installing PVC windows:
- dismantling the previous structure and window sill;
- preparing a new window for installation;
- marking the frame for subsequent fastening;
- fixing fasteners to the frame;
- making holes for fasteners;
- leveling the plastic structure;
- securing the structure in the opening;
- installation of low tide (can be done at the end of the process);
- intermediate adjustment of fittings;
- foaming the cavities between the window opening and the frame;
- window sill installation;
- final adjustment of fittings.
Each stage of installing a plastic window should be considered separately.
Dismantling old window structures
Preliminary stage: preparing the window for installation
Windows with movable sashes are mounted closed. When installing a window in open form there is a risk of deformation of the structure (the foam that will fill the gap between the opening and the frame can bend the frame). After foaming, the window is left for 12 hours, during which it cannot be opened. And to avoid accidental opening of the sash, you can postpone the installation of the handle until the installation of the window is completed.
It is not recommended to remove the tape that covers the surface of the window to protect it from damage until the installation of the structure and finishing of the slopes are completed.
PVC window installation sequence
Marking on the frame for fastening points
We retreat 5-15 centimeters from the corner of the frame and mark a place for the outermost fixing element. The frame needs to be fastened on 4 sides, the fasteners are located every 70-100 cm. If a stand profile is used, the frame is not fastened from below.
Fixing the fastener to the frame
Fastening elements include self-tapping screws, anchor plates, and U-shaped hangers for drywall.
Anchor plates and hangers have the same price - $0.05 (wholesale), $0.15 (retail). However, anchor plates are thicker than hangers. When purchasing, give preference to products made from thicker metal.
The fastener must be tightly secured in the metal frame frame. In order for the element to secure well, the screws must be used for metal. Such products have a drill at the end and a diameter of 4 mm. You can also use simple self-tapping screws, only in this case you need to first mark the holes in the frame with a drill.
Applying recesses for fasteners
We place the frame with the fasteners attached to it in the window opening, then knock out recesses in the opening in the appropriate places (depth 2 - 4 cm, width similar to the size of the fasteners). The fasteners will later sink into these recesses. By completing this procedure, we will make it easier for ourselves to finish the slopes.
Tip: when installing a window without a mounting strip, you should place blocks of wood or other dense material under it so that it rises to the height of the window sill. Then it will be possible to attach the window sill not to the window frame, but under it. If there is a mounting plate, the frame will automatically rise to the desired height. Typically, the mounting strip is already fixed to the frame and does not require additional fixation.
Leveling the window structure
This stage is the longest in the entire window installation procedure. However, by aligning the window in the vertical and horizontal planes, we automatically give it the correct rectangular shape. To level the structure, you need wooden wedges or bars that are placed under the frame. The first pair of lower wedges is set, then you can immediately fix the window from above with an anchor plate. Next we place two wedges at the top, then on the left and right at the bottom and top of the window. If there is an impost, you also need to put a wedge under it. During these actions, it is important to ensure that the vertical posts do not deviate to another plane. It is convenient to level the window with two people, when one supports the structure, the second inserts wedges.
Attaching the window to the opening
Having achieved a perfectly level position of the window, i.e. Having set it correctly in level, we can proceed to fastening the structure. To do this, use dowels (diameter 6-8 mm, length 75-80 mm) or anchors (diameter 6-8 mm). The latter have a higher cost, but provide more reliable fixation. They are recommended to be used if the wall consists of shell rock, brick or foam concrete. Mounting on anchor plates used if the block design contains a thermal insert and the frame in the mounting plane cannot be mechanically secured. A dowel driven into concrete can withstand a load of up to 60 kg, which is quite enough to fix a window. For wooden walls You can use screws with a diameter of eight millimeters.
Advice: do not immediately tighten the screws on the sides of the frame completely, leave 1 cm until they stop. There is no need to screw in the construction screws in the upper part of the structure yet. The frame will not go anywhere, and you will have the opportunity to check the uniformity of the gaps on the sides and, if necessary, move the frame in one direction or another. After the final fastening, this will be more difficult. If the uniformity of the gaps is satisfactory, the horizontal/vertical structure is maintained, you can completely fix the frame by screwing in the screws on top and tightening the remaining screws on the sides. After this, it is worth checking the horizontal and vertical structure again.
Fastening the ebb of a plastic window
Installation of ebb tides can be done at the very end. You can buy the ebb ready-made or make it yourself. It is best to secure this element under the window - this will prevent the penetration of water where it connects to the frame. Upon completion of the installation of the drain, the space between it and the profile is filled with foam. If it is not possible to attach the ebb under the frame, it is fixed directly to it, for which 9 mm metal screws are used.
Intermediate adjustment of fittings
It is necessary to tighten or loosen the window hinges so that the sash moves silently and freely when opening and closing. An open sash should not slam shut on its own. Correctly adjusted hinges will allow it to remain in the desired position.
When moving, does the sash “strike” where the locking hardware is installed? Move this element a little lower or higher.
Foaming the gaps between the opening and the frame
It is important to fill the gaps so that there are no voids left. Large cracks (more than two centimeters) are foamed in several stages, with a break between them of two hours. With this approach, there is no danger that the foam will deform the window as it expands. In addition, the consumption of polyurethane foam is saved, there is no excess that has to be cut off, and the quality of the assembly seam improves.
Since the foam hardens under the influence of atmospheric moisture, a lack of humidity in the room can lead to poor-quality polymerization. To avoid this, you need to lightly spray the area between the window opening and the frame with water before foaming, and after filling the cavity, spray the surface of the foam itself with water. If the air temperature during installation does not exceed five degrees, then winter or all-season foam is used. In warmer weather, you can use summer foam.
After polymerization of the foam, it is necessary to protect it from exposure to ultraviolet radiation. This stage can be combined with finishing the slope. But if you don’t want to make slopes yet, or plan to do it later, then the foam needs to be closed immediately, since due to the influence of straight lines sun rays it quickly collapses. In this case, we prepare cement-sand mortar at the rate of 1 part cement and 2 parts sand, or dilute tile adhesive and cover the foam with any of these materials. In addition, you can purchase at hardware store PSUL tape (vapor-permeable self-expanding sealing tape) and cover the mounting foam with it. However, the cost of the tape is quite high (from $3 per linear meter), so the first options are used more often.
Window sill installation
1. Trimming. The window sills have a standard length and width and have a good margin, both in length and width. Before installation, the window sill is cut using a jigsaw, grinder or saw with small teeth.
2. Leveling. We move the window sill to the support profile and level it using wooden blocks or other available materials.
We cover the side sections of the window sill with end caps. It is better to glue the plugs to the ends with super glue.
By lightly pressing the window sill with your hand, we make sure that it does not sag. In some cases, the window sill is not installed level, but at a slight angle (no more than 3 degrees) “from the window.” Thanks to this slope, possible condensation does not flow under the window.
We foam the cavity under the window sill.
After foaming, place something heavy on the surface of the window sill (you can use plastic bottles with water, books) and leave in this form for 0.5 days.
If you do not press down the window sill with a load, it will bend upward under the influence of foam.
3. One day is enough for the foam to completely harden. After which its remains, sticking out unsightly from the crack under the window sill, need to be cut off using a utility knife.
4. If the window sill was initially uneven, then during installation there may be a gap left between its upper part and the frame. It is carefully filled with silicone. It is worth considering that this material has low biostability and can turn black from fungus. A gap will not appear if galvanized iron plates in the shape of the letter “Z” are fastened to the window sill profile in advance (before installation). In addition to the fact that these plates will allow you to grind the window sill tightly, they will simplify the task of leveling it.
Final window adjustment
At this stage, you can remove the protective tape from the window structure and finally screw on the handle. If finishing the slopes is postponed, do not remove the tape until all finishing work is completed.
Possible errors when installing windows
Here we list the mistakes that are often made when installing windows and can negatively affect the ease of use and service life of the structure:
- Installation is carried out with glazing beads facing outwards. This reduces the window's burglary resistance, since in this case the beads can be easily removed from the outside and the glass unit can be pulled out.
- The window is poorly aligned, making it difficult to open and close.
- The polyurethane foam is not protected from the sun's rays, as a result of which it is destroyed.
- Due to incorrect measurements or too low fastening of the window structure, the window sill cannot be placed under the frame and must be attached directly to it.
- The window structure is not fixed by any fasteners and is held in place only by polyurethane foam. Then cracks may appear on the slopes, since foaming is not a full-fledged fastening. Over time, it loses strength and the window becomes so mobile that it can fall out.
We hope that after reading the article you will be able to successfully cope with the installation of PVC windows. And even if you decide to contact installation organization, you will be able to understand and control this process at all stages.
