Do-it-yourself outdoor toilet. How to build a toilet in the country: drawings, dimensions. Detailed diagrams of the toilet Hut and Birdhouse. Materials and cladding

Even if you don’t have a permanent or even temporary house on your summer cottage, there is still a need to build a latrine. “The call of nature” can make itself felt even if you left the country for just a couple of hours in order to water the plants and cultivate the land. The most optimal option in this case would be to create a toilet with your own hands. Instructions on how to build country toilet, quite simple, and the cost of materials is quite low.

A country toilet is fundamentally different from similar buildings 20 or even 10 years ago. And this is not just a fashion trend:

1. The environmental situation is getting worse every time, and accordingly, sanitary requirements are becoming stricter. And traditional solutions do not always correspond to them.
2. Technologies do not stand still, and neither does the technology for processing and neutralizing waste. Achievements in this area have long been available in everyday life.
3. Most people are increasingly demanding quality of life, and this includes not only comfort and ergonomics, but also external aesthetics and design.

According to these points, we will figure out how you can build an outdoor toilet with your own hands.

Before you make a toilet in your dacha with your own hands, which will meet such requirements as comfort, cleanliness, hygiene, and in addition to pleasing the eye with its appearance, you have to deal with the following tasks:

1. Determine the type of drainage, drainage and disposal system based on local conditions.
2. Choose a place where the toilet will be located on the site.
3. Choose how the ground structure will look externally.
4. Choose decorative design, what relevant details are available in this case.
5. Summarize future construction costs.

It is worth noting that all of the above points are interconnected, and it is necessary to deal with them simultaneously.

Of course, a do-it-yourself outdoor toilet in a country house cannot compare with a normal bathroom, providing only minimal comfort. But without it it might be ruined summer rest, working normally on the site will also be problematic.

Eat whole line sanitary and hygienic requirements that must be observed during this construction. Therefore, it is strongly recommended to study them before starting to build a country toilet.

Sanitary and hygienic standards when building a toilet in a country house

Building an outdoor toilet is a fairly simple task, especially after carefully studying the instructions on how to build a toilet in a country house, you don’t even need to seek help from specialists. However, during such construction it is still worth remembering some features.

Basic requirements for building an outdoor toilet:

1. The main thing is to make sure that the construction of the toilet will not cause inconvenience to the neighbors.
2. The location for installing the structure must be selected very carefully. This stage of construction must be carried out in compliance with all sanitary standards regarding the location of the bathroom. Violation of these rules can lead to serious pollution of the surrounding area (soil, groundwater), which can cause serious health problems, and you can also earn a serious fine from the sanitary service.
3. While drawing up the diagram, you need to think about the way in which the cesspool will be emptied.
4. There are some factors that limit the choice of design. The main one is the water horizon of the summer cottage. In the case when the level of occurrence groundwater quite high, the cesspool must be thoroughly and completely sealed.

Compliance with these simple rules will help get rid of further problems during operation.

Now you can proceed directly to studying the different types of country toilets and the features of their construction.

Household toilets with pit cesspool

Garden toilets for dachas, whose design is based on the use of a cesspool, are perhaps the most popular and most common. This type of latrine is found not only in summer cottages, but also in the farmstead in the village.

During the construction of this structure, usually, no difficulties arise, since the sewer system in this case is replaced by a deep pit for a toilet in the country. They should accumulate here liquid waste, which are disposed of through gradual absorption into the soil and evaporation. But from time to time it will be necessary to use the services of a sewer truck, which will help to completely clean and empty the cesspool.

The quality of the design, the depth and width of the pit determines how often you will have to use the services of vacuum cleaners. This procedure may be quite rare. Most often, this problem is solved by filling the hole. After which the waste collection tank is re-excavated.

An above-ground toilet house for a summer residence can be made from a wide variety of materials:

• metal profile;
• boards;
• logs;
• slate sheets;
• bricks, etc.

An important component of a high-quality design is a durable frame and the presence of high-quality ventilation.

How to build a wooden toilet yourself according to the drawings?

Most owners summer cottages prefer to make structures from wood. This is all due to the fact that production wooden frame It’s quite simple and a wooden bathroom in the country does not require special skills and knowledge, while the cost of materials is quite low, unless, of course, you decide to build a toilet from a log.

A wooden toilet can be made by stylizing it as a fairy-tale house or hut, which is why this design will not only have functional significance, but will become a very beautiful addition to the site. To finish the frame, you can use lining instead of boards. This solution will give the above-ground part of the restroom a stylish and aesthetic appearance.

Notice! The main advantage wooden structure is its mobility. If the hole is filled in, in order to dig it in another place, in this case you do not need to rebuild the above-ground part from scratch, you can simply move the frame to the place that you have prepared for the new toilet.

When choosing this material, you must remember the disadvantages that wood has. It can be subjected to a number of negative influences, which shorten the life of the wooden structure. If you decide to make a country toilet out of wood, then consider the list of negative factors:

• direct impact sun rays(due to their influence, the tree dries out, becomes deformed and cracks);
• prolonged exposure to ultraviolet radiation on the surface of wood leads to its burnout;
• Humidity, this factor constantly accompanies the operation of any toilet, can cause deformation in the frame;
• fungi and mold, this factor that develops under the influence of the previous one (humidity) in wood, due to which dampness, unpleasant odors appear in the wood and the process of rotting begins.

Special protective impregnations will help prevent premature wear of the summer toilet in the garden from the influence of various negative factors during operation. In order to increase the service life of boards or other materials based on wood, it is recommended to paint them with a special composition that is intended for outdoor conditions.

Before painting, the wood must be treated with a primer. For connoisseurs of the natural look of wood, it is recommended to use colorless varnish as a protective material. It will help preserve the natural pattern of the wood and protect the constructed frame from moisture.

Do-it-yourself restroom with a cubicle made of metal profiles

A toilet made of metal profiles has several construction methods. The first method is the one whose drawing is based on the principle of constructing a wooden frame. Another option involves the use of metal profile pipes in order to create a base, the pipes of the structure are connected to each other by welding. To do this, you must have a welding machine and the skills to work with it.

After which the metal or wooden frame is sheathed with profile sheets. Self-tapping screws or rivets can be used as fasteners. It is also recommended to buy special protective washers for self-tapping screws; they will help prevent moisture from entering the fastener, thereby protecting it from damage by rust.

Despite the simplicity of the construction of this building, it has one significant drawback: in the summer the structure gets very hot. Because of this factor, it would be best to arrange a toilet of a similar design in the shade.

Advice! Experienced summer residents the internal lining is made of polystyrene foam sheets. They will keep the structure cool inside.

Profile metal sheets are coated with a special protective layer at the factory. Because of this, this material is reliably protected from moisture. Therefore, profile sheets can be safely used on outdoors. The biggest advantage of a profile toilet is, perhaps, the speed of its installation, which is why it has become so popular among users.

Drawings of a brick toilet booth

The construction of a brick structure for a toilet is due to some difficulties. Firstly, you should say goodbye to the possibility of moving the structure to another place if necessary. Therefore, first of all, it is worth carefully studying the various projects of a country restroom created with your own hands, drawings, as well as the features of the site itself.

In essence, a brick closet is a capital building, the repair of which can not be remembered for even a dozen years. The costs of its construction are much higher than for a similar structure made of corrugated sheets or wood. But if you have leftover bricks after building a house or garage, you can save a lot.

Worth noticing! In the case of constructing a latrine on personal plot made of the same brick as the house and garage will create a single harmonious picture of the exterior, which will look quite impressive and beautiful.

Considering that the weight of the finished brick toilet with your own hands according to the drawings with the dimensions of the building is quite large, as mentioned above, it is necessary to lay a strong and massive foundation under it.

• minimum excavation work;
• minimum cement consumption for the production of concrete for pouring;
• high level of security;
• reliability (suitable for almost any type of soil).

For structures made of lighter materials (for example, slate), you can use a columnar foundation.

Features of outdoor toilets without a waste pit

The simplest and most cost-effective option for solving problems with a toilet in a summer cottage is to install a waste pit. But even with this option there are some limitations when creating such structures. Construction of toilets cesspool is limited by the following rules:

• the basis of the soil on the plot is shale or limestone soil;
• the groundwater horizon is located quite close to the surface;
• The restroom is expected to be used by a large number of people.

These factors prohibit the construction of a toilet based on a cesspool in a summer cottage. To solve this problem, you can equip restrooms of a completely different type, which are based on a completely different principle of operation.

Types of latrines without a waste pit:

• backlash-closet;
• powder closet;
• composting toilet or chemical toilet.

Each design has its own nuances: structure, construction methods, requirements during operation.

Detailed information can be found in the article: “The dream of many summer residents.”

How to choose a place to build a closet?

Before you start designing a drawing and drawing up a rough plan of the structure itself, you need to take care of the correct location.

The following conditions can seriously affect the installation of the structure:

1. The distance between the toilet and the water source must be at least 30 meters. Ideally, the water should be as far away from this place as possible. In some cases, the geolocation of the water source may be located below the level of the toilet construction. In this case, the structure must be moved to another place, and a way out of this situation may be to move the latrine below the water source.
2. At the dacha there may also be cellars or basements. If placed, these structures can be located on the same level as the toilet. In this case, the restroom must be located at least 15 meters away from these buildings.
3. Residential premises and other buildings must be separated by at least 8 meters.
4. Animal habitats must be located at least 5 meters away.
5. It is recommended to plant green spaces at a distance of 1 meter.
6. The distance to the toilet from the fence that separates your area from the neighboring one should be at least 1 meter.

Wind direction also plays a significant role. You need to make sure that the unpleasant smell from the toilet does not bother your neighbors. If the site is located on a slope, the optimal location of the toilet is the lowest point.

Construction of a sewage pit

Once the site has been selected and prepared, you can begin digging a cesspool. Usually it has a square shape and its depth should be at least 2 meters.

There are two types of cesspools:

1. Sealed. The bottom of such a pit is concreted, reinforced before pouring, and to avoid the possibility that the reinforcement may sink in the concrete, it is first placed on pegs. The walls also need to be sealed, puttied, and the seams covered with bitumen.
2. Absorbing. This type of hole must be dug down to the sand, this will facilitate the faster release of the liquid fraction of sewage into the ground. The bottom is covered with a layer of pebbles or coarse crushed stone.

There are several ways to strengthen the walls of a cesspool:

• brickwork;
• concrete structure;
• ready-made reinforced concrete rings;
• plastic tank.

The top of the pit is covered with beams, slate or concrete; only the area allocated for the toilet seat should remain open, then proceed to the construction of the above-ground structure.

Advice! In order to be able to operate the cesspool longer, it is not recommended to throw toilet paper and other hygiene or household items; for this purpose, there must be a specially designated bucket in the restroom.

General instructions for constructing a toilet booth

The optimal size of a country toilet can be considered 1×1.5 meters with a building height of 2.2-2.5 meters. Otherwise, you may experience some inconvenience while using it, especially for people with large builds. It is not at all necessary to start designing a drawing of a restroom yourself; if there are no special requirements or ideas, it is recommended to use ready-made ones.

First of all, the convenience of the scheme lies in the fact that it can be used to accurately calculate in advance required amount building materials and the preliminary cost of a yard bathroom.

Let's look at how to build a country toilet with your own hands step by step:

• The basis of the frame. It is better to move the above-ground structure a little above the cesspool, about 2/3 forward. This way you can access it from behind for cleaning. A shallow foundation will help ensure the stability of the structure. For waterproofing, 1-2 layers of roofing material are laid between it and the frame. But when erecting a wooden structure, this is not necessary. The base can simply be marked on concrete blocks.

You can also install four support posts. To do this, you need to dig four holes in the corners of the future structure, the depth of which should be about 60 cm; if the soil is soft, you can go down to 1 meter, after which you need to install asbestos pipes in them. Next, the hole is filled one third with cement mortar. After which a support beam is installed in the pipe and the hole is completely filled with concrete.

• Assembling a wooden frame. For the construction of this structure, beams measuring 50×50 or 80×80 mm, beams large sizes There's no point in taking it.

1. First, a rectangular support with a jumper is assembled on which the front wall of the toilet seat will be installed; the jumper is screwed to the support posts or to the foundation. A board is laid on top. The thickness of the floor board should not be less than 3 cm.
2. The frame of future walls is assembled from timber. At the same time, the height of the front wall should be approximately 10 cm greater than the back wall in order to provide the required slope for the roof.
3. To strengthen the structure, it is necessary to make diagonal jibs on the side and rear walls.
4. The front wall must have reinforcement for a door of the required size, and you also need to make a hole for the window.
5. The frames are fixed to the base with metal corners, and a strapping is made on top at the level of the toilet seat.

The next step is to assemble the frame for the toilet seat and cover it, but this is done in the case when other options are not provided, for example, a floor-standing toilet.

• Frame covering. The frame is sheathed wooden planks. In order to save material, vertical cladding is recommended, but horizontal cladding is more beautiful and looks more attractive. The boards fit tightly together and are attached to the base. Instead of wood, you can also use corrugated sheets, slate or some other material that is most affordable.
• Roof. The boundaries of the roof should not exceed the boundaries of the walls by more than 30 cm. Installation begins after parallel boards are fixed at a short distance. Next, you need to sew up the visor from the bottom, attaching boards to the outside around the perimeter. After this, it is necessary to lay a layer of waterproofing on a previously prepared base; as a rule, roofing felt is used for waterproofing. After which the structure can be covered with any roofing material (metal profiles, slate, bitumen shingles).
• Exhaust ventilation. As a hood in a country toilet, you can imagine a pipe, the task of which is to remove odors from the cesspool. Its lower edge is inserted into the hole, and the upper edge is raised above the roof by no less than 20 cm. To solve this problem, you can use a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm. It is attracted to the back wall from the inside or outside and fixed with metal clamps. To enhance traction, a deflector attachment is mounted on the head.
• Installing a toilet door. Doors can be installed as ordinary wooden or plastic ones, or they can be constructed from the same material as the entire above-ground structure. After which the door is hung on 2 hinges. You can choose the method of locking the door to your taste; usually for these purposes they use a latch, hook or latch, which are installed both from the inside and from the outside. It is better to avoid more complex locking methods, for example, locks with latches, since due to the constant influence of moisture, it will quickly rust and can jam at the most inopportune moment.
• Lighting. For greater comfort, it is recommended to take care of interior lighting in advance. For these purposes, you can use a battery-powered wall flashlight. Other summer residents provide full lighting by stretching a cable and installing a light bulb with a switch. During the day, a small window can easily cope with this task. It is usually cut at the top of the doors or above them, but in fact there are quite a few options here, from figured windows on the walls to a transparent roof.

Summer residents, for whom the usual construction of a house is not enough, can use drawings of more interesting designs; they can be made themselves, or they can buy ready-made toilet houses, which are assembled like a children’s construction set, and in order to facilitate this task, they are equipped with assembly instructions and accompanying drawings.

(Certej_budka_dver)

Where does the arrangement of a summer cottage begin? Well, sir, you have questions. From the toilet, of course (option: “Hey, you asked! Right off the bat, it’s a no brainer!”). So let’s see what you need to know and how to do in order to quickly, without unnecessary hassle and expense, build a toilet in your dacha. What is it, why is it and why is it impossible without it - see above. Therefore, we omit the typical preambles.

Trends of the times

The country toilet today is completely different from what it was 20 or even 10 years ago. And it's not just fashion:

• The environmental situation as a whole has deteriorated and, accordingly, sanitary requirements have become more stringent. Traditional solutions do not always fit into them.
• There has been a real revolution in the technology of processing and neutralizing waste, and many of its achievements are available in everyday life.
• People's demands for quality of life have increased, including not only comfort and ergonomics, but also appearance.

Based on this, we will figure out how to build a country toilet with our own hands. With one small caveat: we will only touch on brick and concrete structures in passing: this is already capital construction with all the ensuing requirements. It is possible to build a separate warm permanent toilet on a summer cottage site only in exceptional cases due to the small land area. But let's linger for architectural design the most necessary structure, which is included in the quality of life, and the toilet in this regard is one of the most complex objects. If not the most difficult. However, amenable to solution; for an example see fig.

Note: toilets made of corrugated sheets on a metal frame are, frankly speaking, uncomfortable - parko in the summer, cold in the off-season. Good metal cabins are made mainly of industrial production with insulation and internal lining. Then the production cycle turns out to be cheaper than carpentry. If you are still interested in this aspect, then the homemade upper structure will be identical, and the floor with a toilet seat will be identical to that described below.

Let’s finally look at how to create beauty. First you need to deal with the construction, and the design is already tied to it. To build a toilet that is cozy, clean, hygienic and pleasing to the eye, you must first solve other problems:

1. Select the type of drainage, disposal and disposal system based on local conditions.
2. Determine the location of the toilet on the site.
3. Select the type and design solution of the ground structure; simply - cabins or booths.
4. Understand its decorative design: what is appropriate in this case will be possible.
5. Estimate construction costs.

It must be said that these problems are closely interconnected and we need to deal with them all together. There is only a booth somewhat to the side; it almost does not interact with the underground part and the base. So the toilet cubicle can be made basically whatever you want, and this is the easiest and cheapest part of the work. So let's start with it.

Booth

The main material for construction, as mentioned above, is wood. The fact that it is inexpensive, easy to process, retains heat well, breathes, and after simple processing (see below) remains harmless to humans, but becomes resistant to bad weather and becomes unsuitable for settlement various kinds infection is known. However, there are still circumstances due to which a wooden toilet turns out to be the best solution for a summer house.

About foundations and supports

The soil is considered suitable for construction if its bearing capacity without additional measures to strengthen it and the foundation is at least 1.7 kg sq. m. cm. Convert to square meters; we get 17 tons (!). The plan area of ​​a toilet cabin rarely exceeds 2.5-3 square meters. m; utility block - 15-20 sq. m. Is it conceivable that they weigh 40-50 and 250-350 tons, respectively?

Go ahead. Excessively heaving soil is considered to be soil that swells by 12% when it freezes. We take the thickness of the humus layer, which swells the most, at 50 cm; This is not a dacha, but an Eldorado. 50x0.12 = 6 cm. On homogeneous loose soils, a uniformly swelling surface is considered to be one whose horizontal size is equal to 100 absolute values ​​of swelling; in this case – 600 cm or 6 m.

Are there toilets or cabins larger than 6x6 m in plan? We conclude: a toilet on a summer cottage can be built without a foundation. During seasonal movements of the soil, it will simply rise and fall by less than 10 cm (and most likely by 3-4), without warping at all, which is completely imperceptible.

Moreover, there is no need to build a foundation for a toilet: taking into account the allocation of land for a construction site with soil excavation, at least one hundred square meters is withdrawn from the household supply. And if the plot is already planted, what should I do? And from a construction point of view: an unloaded foundation buried in the ground can warp and tilt more than the soil surface. The reason is the uneven and heterogeneous freezing of its layers. The foundation tape, piles or pillars feel it, unlike the surface, immediately “with their whole body.”

Note: That’s why builders strive to finish the foundations early, so that they can build as much as possible before the cold weather. more walls. The exception is deep foundations, which can winter without restrictions.

The conclusion “without a foundation” is known to summer residents even without calculations with special knowledge. Toilet cabins are placed on bricks or ready-made small reinforced concrete monoliths. However, it would be best to steam the outdoor toilet concrete pillars for trellises. They are sold not only in the southern regions for vineyards; in colder places they are used for hops and other climbing crops.

Trellis posts are available in lengths of 1.2-6 m, with overall dimensions in plan from 10x12 to 20x30 cm. The cross-section is trapezoidal, with rounded corners of the smaller side. And on the larger one there are 6-12 mm wire rod rigging eyes. By sawing them in the middle with a grinder and carefully bending them, we get pins for attaching the cabin to the base.

Note: if the toilet has a cesspool, then the problem of the rear support beam of the cabin (wood in a chemically aggressive environment) not only resolves itself, it simply does not arise.

In places with strong winds, it is still advisable to make support posts for the booth from 80x80 timber or 40x40x2 corrugated pipes. Metal ones are concreted about 30 cm deeper than the humus layer, and wooden ones are dug to the same depth, having first been treated with very hot bitumen and wrapped in roofing material with sprinkling (rough).

Constructions

Materials and cladding

There are mainly 4 types of lumber for the cabin:

• Beam 60x60 or 80x80 - for the frame.
• Tongue and groove board 40x (120-150) – for the floor and toilet seat.
• Edged or tongue and groove board 20-30 mm for external cladding.
• Edged or unedged board-twenty or 50x20 slats for roof sheathing.

The sheathing board can be replaced with waterproof plywood or OSB with a thickness of 8-20 mm. In the latter case, the slats for the sheathing can be cut from them. It will also be only better from all sides and only a little more expensive if you use tongue and groove forty on the cladding.

Sheathing with tongue and groove boards will show all its advantages if the cabin is sheathed with horizontal belts. But then it is imperative to orient the ridges of the tongues upward, and the grooves downwards, in order to avoid the accumulation of moisture in the tongue. In any case, the door is sheathed vertically.

Curvilinear sections, which may be required according to the design conditions, are best sheathed in a nautical style with a boat plank, see fig. Also, such cladding will last longer in places with heavy rainfall, but it holds up to strong winds a little worse than sheet piling. Having a jigsaw with a rotary shoe, it is easy to make a boat board from an edged one; The angle of inclination of the board visor is about 30 degrees. The peaks of the boards should be oriented down the slope, as in Fig.

Massive, i.e. made of solid wood, lumber, after cutting to size, must be treated: all without exception, with anti-rot preparations (biocides), and then impregnated twice with a water-polymer emulsion; this inexpensive material protects wood from dampness for many years. It is necessary to impregnate in exactly this sequence, otherwise the PVA film will not release the biocide into the wood! And if it’s done right, it will prevent it from evaporating and being washed out. Parts facing the ground or cesspool (for flooring and lining the toilet seat - under the boards) must be additionally treated with hot bitumen or bitumen mastic.

Types of cabins

A wooden toilet on the street, in terms of type and construction technology, is generally made in 4 architectural forms; see picture: hut, birdhouse, house, hut.

The difference between them is insignificant, but still there:

1. The hut is simple in design, durable, resistant to wind and precipitation, the least material-intensive, but it takes up more land and is inconvenient: a step to the right, a step to the left - banging your head. And to “not knock” you need to take the height of the ridge up to 3 m or more, so the savings in materials disappear. The most appropriate design is primitivist-rustic.
2. Birdhouse still simpler than a hut, it will take no more wood, it takes up a minimum of land. But the structure is weak, and the entire structure does not retain heat well and is more easily blown by the wind; this is a common drawback of all buildings with a pitched roof. It's no good for design. However, as a summer toilet or a utility section in the backyard behind dense vegetation, a birdhouse toilet is optimal; especially due to the fact that a solar heated water pressure tank can be easily placed on its roof. At the same time, the cabin under load acquires additional strength.
3. The house is warmer and a little stronger than a birdhouse. It requires the same amount of materials and land. It is more difficult to attach a water tank, but almost any decoration and decoration is acceptable.
4. The hut is more complex than others; more material is wasted. Thanks to its faceted shape, it is very durable and can withstand any climatic conditions. Ergonomics and functionality – it couldn’t be better: the shelf and washbasin do not take up floor space, and you can also add a hanger. For design - do everything that is suitable for the toilet, and in itself fits into any landscape.

About sizes

The recommended dimensions of the birdhouse and floor house cabins, together with the toilet seat, are from 1.2 m in width and from 1.5 m in depth. For a hut with a hut, the depth is the same, but the width is taken from 0.9 m - in a hut at shoulder level (this is approximately 1.6 m from the floor for a person of average height in shoes), and in a hut along the floor. In block Khrushchev buildings there are toilets 0.7x1.1 m, but people don’t go there in warm clothes. outerwear and garden shoe covers.

Note: toilet width summer cottage on weekends it is permissible to reduce to 1 m.

In any case, there should be at least 40 cm from the head of a standing person to the nearest wall; this is important when calculating the angle of inclination of the walls of the hut. The height of the ceiling above the floor is not lower than 2.1 m, above the toilet seat - from 1.9 m. The height of the side of the seat above the floor is also taken more than standard for heavy shoes. apartment toilet 40 cm by 5-6, up to 10 cm, i.e. 45-50 cm, depending on the height of the users.

About door hinges

The hut, birdhouse and house cabins have a common drawback: if you forget to lock the door, the wind can loosen it along with the cabin in just 10-20 minutes. To avoid this, it is advisable to hang the door on barn hinges, as in pos. 1-3 fig. higher. A durable hut is not afraid of this; its door can be hung on secret hinges without fear.

We are building a booth

The construction of a simple birdhouse cabin is illustrated step by step in the figure; all installation is carried out on nails 100 mm (for 60 mm timber) or 150 mm, for timber 80x80. The sheathing is carried out on 60-70 mm nails. The construction order is as follows:

1. The load-bearing belt or corner slabs/posts are covered with simple, without topping, roofing felt in 2 layers;
2. Immediately (inexpensive roofing felt, which is not UV stabilized, quickly deteriorates in the light), assemble the lower support frame from timber. Don't forget to process!
3. Lay the floor up to the front edge of the toilet seat. The remaining part of the frame is covered with a board of the same thickness as for the floor. Also, do not forget to process, especially from the bottom;
4. Prepare the front (large) and rear frames. The joints cut into half the tree;
5. The front frame and backdrop are nailed to the bottom and tied with ties cut into a quarter;
6. The frame of the toilet seat is made in the same way;
7. They cover the toilet seat, cut out the seat window (a window is a completely legal technical term) and cover the walls;
8. Assemble the roof sheathing;
9. Lay the roof (any hard roofing material), cut out the ace, hang the door (see below for details), trim the corners - done! Whoever is more impatient there can already do it!

The described method is far from the only acceptable one. Construction of a toilet booth is possible in other ways. For example, see a fairly detailed video:

Video: do-it-yourself toilet in the country

What is a toilet ace?

This is the same figured window above the door or in its leaf. Its symbolism is now forgotten, but in the sanctimonious Middle Ages it was quite definite. The heart is not actually a call for sex in a latrine, but an ace of hearts. It meant that this latrine was publicly available. Diamonds - only for the fair sex! In the old days, ladies had the right to use any free cabin, and gentlemen - only those intended for them.

There was no smell of feminism or even equality here: the same gentlemen bluntly put chastity belts on those to whom they sang romances (a monstrous, unsanitary device), and the murder of a wife for adultery was not considered a crime. Gallantry is gallantry, but take out the right of the strong and put it down! The aces of clubs and spades were not used: the clergy and the military would be offended. During the Inquisition, who knows what was even more fraught... A nobleman would quickly stab or hack to death, and the holy fathers could even send him to the stake.

More cabins

The second most popular toilet cabin is the hut. Since its structure is more complex, we present finished project with cutting of boards and calculation of material consumption, see fig. Pay attention to the door: its leaf with such a system of force connections will withstand any wind and is suitable for any toilet. Perhaps a door left unlocked on weekdays will be torn off, but the panel will not become loose and the repair will be reduced to rehanging.

In Fig. Below are, for example, less detailed drawings of another birdhouse, hut and house. If you figure out how to build a hut, then no further explanation will be needed.

About the toilet in the garden

For a number of reasons, which will be discussed in more detail at the end of the article, it is advisable to build a toilet on the site, especially a hut and a house, among the trees. However, construction garden toilet has some features. They are not so large that it would be difficult to describe them, so we simply offer a video:

Video: building a garden toilet

Household units

At dachas it is customary to combine a toilet, shower, and shed; Maybe - summer kitchen and shelter from bad weather (if there is no house yet or a commercial cottage, where squares of land give money) in one block. At least from the point of view of the biochemistry of wastewater, this is justified: in a dacha, the share of gray water (wastewater from the shower and from the kitchen) relative to fecal water is much less than in a residential building, and the volume of wastewater is small, so there is little point in thinking about treating them separately. It is more profitable to treat a cesspool (the utility block allows only this option for waste disposal) universal means. Therefore, let’s see how best to make a utility block with a shower and toilet for the dacha.

Plan of the utility block “Cheburashka”

In Fig. at the top is a variant spontaneously and popularly invented under Khrushchev, later nicknamed “Cheburashka”. Kits of parts for its assembly under the same name are still sold today. The peculiarity is extreme simplicity, low cost and sufficient functionality with a minimum of occupied space. Support pillars(timber 100x100 or corrugated pipe 40x40x2) are dug or concreted directly into the ground. They were once sheathed with slate; now - a professional sheet.

On the trail. rice. – 2 more complex plans for utility units. Their larger room can be used not only as a warehouse/shed, but also as a weather shelter with a kitchen; the presence of a window, its area and size allow you to place a trestle bed and a table with a fireplace, and the wooden paneling provides sufficient insulation. This pays off with the larger occupied area and the fact that the entrance to the toilet with shower is only from the street, there is no longer room for a changing room.

Finally, in Fig. on the right is a utility block for construction in the corner of the site, with an open summer washbasin. The peculiarity is its compactness and very tiny dimensions: the structure is brick, but if, with the same room sizes, it is made of wood, the plan dimensions are reduced to 2x2 m.

About the sump

We’ll talk more about cesspools, tricks for their construction and ways to do without a cesspool at all below; in general.

In the meantime, see the diagram in Fig., suitable for a yard toilet and utility unit. Pay attention to reflector 1; it is absolutely necessary for the toilet, because... directs the discarded feces to the front of the pit. Then they slowly slide into the pocket under pumping, being processed by bacteria along the way. Without a reflector, the entire biocenosis in the pit will be mixed up, and approximately twice its volume will be needed. Gray waste is discharged into a pit without a reflector, but also into the front part. A blind concrete box 4 and a clay lock 3 at the dacha are also absolutely necessary to prevent infiltration into the ground, and the purpose of the inspection and cleaning door 2 does not require explanation.

What about in the house?

This is understandable; recovering warm is not only more comfortable, but also healthier. However, although it is quite possible to arrange a country toilet in the house, first a number of problems will need to be solved.

The first is the cesspool. It is unrealistic to drain wastewater into a well with infiltration into the ground; According to current sanitary rules, you will then need to maintain the following distances:

• At least 30 m from water sources, and in normal conditions middle lane geology – 50-80 m.
• From stagnant bodies of water and plantings of food crops - from 30 m.
• From rivers and streams - from 15 m.
• From buildings and roads - at least 5 m.
• From non-fruit trees, bushes and the border of the site - from 2 m.

All this applies not only to our own, but also to neighboring objects susceptible to pollution. There are even more neighbors, because in case of conflict, the whole truth according to the law will be on their side. That is, a home-country toilet must be built with a blind-type cesspool that requires periodic pumping. It must be said that with the help of modern means for cesspools, this problem can be solved: a sanitation service outside the city has to be called no more than once a quarter, and there is always time to cooperate with neighbors on this matter.

Note: Craftsmen-dacha owners did not ignore cesspools. For example, how to make a cesspool that is feasible for unauthorized construction, does not cause indignation among neighbors and is subsequently suitable for legalization (the dacha amnesty will not last forever), see the video below:

Video: DIY cesspool

The second problem is the smell. It is impossible to install a flush toilet with a water seal (siphon) above the cesspool even in a dacha with an abundant and completely free water supply: excess moisture will destroy the bacteria in the pit, and you will no longer need scheduled pumping, but emergency cleaning, with payment, in addition to the sanitation tank, for the work of a team of plumbers on the road .

Toilets with cesspools are made into backlash closets; simply - with a push in the form of a funnel with a lid. But the backlash of the closet does not exclude the penetration of odors into the room, if only due to surges in draft in the ventilation and blowing it out with the wind. Therefore, the cesspool of a home toilet should be ventilated not with an ordinary vent pipe, but with a breather - ventilation with forced draft, creating a pressure in the pit below atmospheric pressure.

Putting a fan on the breather duct is a disastrous proposition. A household product will not last long in an aggressive environment; a very expensive special one (it must, among other things, also be explosion-proof) will have to be cleaned frequently, and it’s better not to see it, let alone smell or touch it.

It’s quite easy to install a toilet in country house with heating; For options for furnace and boiler, see fig. A backlash channel with thermogradient draft is made under the breather. In order for it to work even in the warm season, when there is no heating, the breather pipe (it must protrude at least 70 cm above the mouth of the chimney and the ridge of the roof) is made of metal and painted black, then the Sun will warm it up.

However, there is also an option for seasonal cottages without heating. Let us remember that in the first brick Khrushchev houses, rather rough earthenware toilets were washed clean; many did not even keep a brush on the farm. Why? Flush cistern suspended from a 2.8 m high ceiling; for descent, a pear on a chain hung from it. Total - a pressure of over 2 m. A strong jet with a terrible noise carried everything into the outlet at once.

The noise when flushing was not the last circumstance that gave rise to compact toilets. But in a classic sink with a basin, a weak stream might not wash anything away at all. Then they came up with toilets with an oblique flush, see fig. on right. True, you can’t look closely in them - and what is my stool like these days - and you can’t do without a brush, but a weak stream washes away acceptable.

The author, faced with the need to remodel a country toilet several years ago, thought: it wouldn’t hurt to install something with a siphon so that it never stinks at all. The oblique unique is washed off quite cleanly with a weak stream, but what if you give it a strong one, like in Khrushchev’s? Less water consumption with the same flush quality.

At first I wanted to buy a cheap compact with a tank without a dispenser (water flows as long as the button is pressed) and raise it higher, but then I thought: why? It’s inconvenient to stretch, water is provided according to a schedule, which means you also need a pressure storage tank. In the end, I took one sink with the outlet down, straight into the hole. Hung from the ceiling plastic barrel for 50 l, and supplied flushing water in two sections plastic corrugation through a ball valve with a handle to open faster.

The result exceeded all expectations: it takes up to 3 liters of water to flush. From a 50-liter tank – 15-25 flushes per day, enough for four. The cleaning community in the pit is thriving.

Note: any of the cabins described above will support a 200-liter barrel under the ceiling, but it’s not necessary. Users will get a taste for it, the pit will turn sour from excess moisture and begin to instantly overflow.

And without a cesspool?

Since there are such difficulties with a cesspool, is it possible to somehow make a latrine without a cesspool? They can, and they do. Dry toilets. But, firstly, any sewage system is bio-based, because... Bacteria, natural or artificial, are used to treat wastewater. Secondly, a toilet that is bio may not be bio at all. So let’s take a better look at how you can receive and process wastewater at your dacha without any waste, i.e. make an independent toilet.

Autonomous public spaces are divided primarily into chemical and biological. They can be both, depending on which cartridge is connected, see below. In chemical wastewater, they are processed by strong inorganic oxidizing agents or organic reagents of abiogenic origin (formalin, etc.) “Chemists” are expensive, their absorption and throughput capacity is high. The contents of the used cartridge are very toxic; its refilling and disposal is possible only by certified specialists using special equipment using protective equipment, so chemical toilets are rarely used in everyday life.

Dry toilets are usually called those in which the biocenosis of bacteria processing wastewater does not arise spontaneously, but is created by a specially sown culture. From this point of view, a blind cesspool treated with modern septic tanks is also a dry closet, but we will consider options without the accumulation of liquefied wastewater and that do not require pumping

Most old look, who has successfully survived to this day - peat toilet with its variety of powder-closet, this is not the same thing. Both use natural bacteria from peat bogs; conditions deep in a peat bog are very similar to those in a cesspool. Peat bacteria are inactive: they work slowly, and they process only a small amount of wastewater based on the net volume of the crop. But they are extremely resilient, they easily “fall asleep” and when favorable conditions are awakening.

In a simple, or composting, peat toilet (on the left in the figure), a 40-200 liter collection container with a stone drainage is placed under the backlash closet - it will absorb excess moisture, and then gradually release it - and a breather that sucks out harmful gases. Without one or the other, a stable culture will not arise; it will either dry out and fall asleep, or sour and die, or become poisoned and also die.

Using a composting peat toilet is simple: after sitting, pour peat crumbs into the funnel. The collection is periodically shaken out compost heap After aging for 2-3 years, the fermented and disinfected compost is suitable for fertilization. But a composting toilet, firstly, does not guarantee against odor, and secondly, like a powder toilet, see below, it cannot tolerate overload: suddenly a company showed up at the dacha for a hearty meal with beer, stench and necessity complete cleaning with refilling guaranteed.

"Pudrum" means dust. This word and its derivatives with different prefixes in Romano-Germanic languages ​​generally refer to any powders. For example, in English gunpowder means black powder, and baby powder means baby powder for scuffs. An excerpt from J. Darrell’s book “My Family and Other Animals” will help you understand what a powder closet is. Anyone who has read Darrell (Gerald, not his older brother Lawrence) knows that the famous naturalist is also an extraordinary writer.

So, the “absurd family” of the Durrells, in the author’s own words, decided “to improve their health” to live for a long time on the island of Corfu, now Kerkyra. While we were looking for a house for permanent housing, we stayed at a hotel. Next, see a scan from the printed text.

The box that Gerald’s sister finally found in her room was probably taken out of the powder closet. The first devices of this kind were used as chamber pots and filled with peat dust. In the form of a bucket with peat crumbs under a toilet seat, they came to us in the middle latitudes, because... a real powder closet is effective at an average daily temperature above 23 degrees, and the bucket with crumbs needs to be emptied one way or another every day or more often.

A box of a real powder closet with a capacity of 30, or better yet, 50 liters (in the center in the figure above) is filled with tightly stacked vertical plates of pressed peat. In places where there is no peat and it is expensive, they use special paper soaked in peat extract, thick and durable, but highly porous, the so-called. kraft paper It was this kind of powder-closet that the civilized, without prejudice, but not very knowledgeable Margot Darrell encountered. However, she was then in adolescence, and, having matured, she helped her brother a lot in his useful work.

Peat toilets are sold in finished form. The stationary ones (on the right in the figure above) can be used both as a powder closet and as a dry closet with artificial crops: the drawer holds both a container with peat and replaceable bacterial cartridges. No preparation is required for installation; the booth is simply placed where needed. One filling with peat filler is enough for 2-3 people for 3-4 days, and with breaks for 5 days, at a weekend dacha, for 1-3 months.

Seats for composting toilets are also on sale, but you need to be careful here. Firstly, various kinds of environmental protection, and essentially fraudulent societies, produce products of the “super-duper-eco-plus XXX” type, like the one on the left in Fig. They are eco, certified. But in reality it turns out that the peat dispenser needs to be filled with special granules, which are very expensive, otherwise it will immediately break down. They are made by themselves or their accomplices. A kind of toilet Herbalife or Nature’s Sushine. In general, network marketing as it is.

Sometimes, perhaps simply out of ignorance, toilet seats with a rotating cassette for special bacterial cartridges are sold under the guise of peat ones, on the right in Fig. You can put peat in them, and you can relieve yourself there too. But if the cartridge is simply changed, then how can you clean something like this on peat?

Autonomous microflora toilets use highly effective bacteria obtained through genetic engineering methods. They are harmless and safe for humans, verified many years of experience, since the 80s. The cartridge with the culture changes on its own (the procedure is no messier than changing diapers), but the contents are unsuitable for fertilizer and must be recycled. For a weekend home, 1 cassette is enough for the summer, for a seasonal one you will need 2-3 replacements. However, here too you need to choose carefully. No cheating, there are just a lot of different varieties.

For example, there is no point in taking a very expensive public cabin, pos. 1 in Fig. at the bottom. Yes, it is warm, anti-vandal, and can take in a lot. But - the shelf life of any bacterial cartridge is limited, regardless of the nature of use. The crop degrades long before you use its absorption capacity, and the cost of replacing a cassette is not small.

The second pitfall is handicraft cheap stuff, pos. 2. Take a cheaper “alternative” bio-toilet (see below) and build a cubicle around it. Then - rapid degradation, smell, replacement of the cartridge with your own. The miser pays twice, as always. If we take a one-piece dry closet, then a dacha-household one, pos. 3. These are cheaper due to the smaller drainage resource, it is designed for a family.

The same applies to the biotoilets themselves. High-capacity public, capable of working on both microflora and chemistry, pos. 4, are expensive and everything that was said about ready-made dry closets applies to them. There are special country bio-toilets on sale, pos. 5, cheaper and designed for a family. But what can be poured into their tank is not water (they spoil immediately), but a special liquid supplied for flushing literally in drops, so you need to find out what it is washed with and how much the flush costs.

Bucket toilets for dachas (item 6) come with replaceable cartridges designed for 3-5 people and 2-5 days; for a weekend dacha this is not the worst option. But there are also chemical disposable ones, they are intended for traveling work, various kinds of field trips, etc. As a rule, they are rented, and when the absorber is depleted or upon returning home, they are given for refilling.

Another “bio-dacha” option is a toilet with a separate cartridge, pos. 7. Costs much less than a ready-made toilet. By making the cabin to your liking or purchasing it separately, you can get a completely hygienic room that everyone needs, pos. 8. For a summer residence, this is perhaps the best option today: the cost of a toilet and changing cartridges over a long period of time is less than a zero cycle and a cesspool for a booth.

Note: However, the widespread use of dry toilets is hampered by a significant circumstance - bacteria designed for small cartridges are unable to accept gray waste. Therefore, for a summer house inhabited from spring to autumn, it is better to recommend a deep cesspool, treated with bacteria that are not so effective and require more living space, but are omnivorous.

And about design

It is a truism that design follows from functionality and should not come at the expense of it. However, the functionality of the toilet is unsightly, and this is not a complex. All living things are vulnerable when performing their natural needs. Shame is just a manifestation of the instinct of self-preservation. The reproductive instinct may overpower it, but urination and defecation are not coitus. Therefore, in the design of a toilet you need to know very well and carefully observe the measure.

For example, there is no need to force the toilet to repeat: “No, I’m not a toilet!”, as in pos. 1-3 fig. Whether it’s done clumsily or with great skill, it doesn’t matter. It will turn out something like an excuse for a certain character: “Boss, I didn’t steal a green crocodile lobber with 185 bucks and 50 cents and a photo of a 30-year-old blonde with a boy school age!” To which came: “Did I tell you, you lame cormorant, which wallet was stolen?” Since the cabin catches the eye, what kind of secrecy is there in the departure?

Pos. 4-6 illustrate a generally legitimate approach - camouflage. We will modestly remain silent about our essence, and whoever needs it will be shown or will find it himself. There is scope for design delights, but only with great experience, taste and ability to work. Otherwise, something like pose will come out. 7-9, upon seeing which both the designer and the psychiatrist will agree on one thing: this is not design.

When decorating a toilet, it is best to remember: what is natural is not ugly, even if it cannot be displayed. Specifically, natural camouflage for this need: vegetation, stone, pose. 10-12. Rustic primitivism and phytodesign are by no means at odds, pos. 11. But since the booth is larger than a person and the view from it is worse, it is advisable to place a booth of simple natural shapes among trees, poses. 10. Or, as is usual in bushes, hide among small phytoforms so that it is not visible, pos. 12. In this case, this is the most natural and, therefore, the best technique. And the most hygienic.

No place where people live can do without a toilet, and the cottage is no exception. It won’t be easy to build a country toilet with your own hands. a lot of work. A toilet for a summer house can be organized different ways ranging from traditional rustic to modern septic tank. This article will look at how to organize a waste collection and disposal site and make a comfortable and beautiful toilet.

Types of toilets for summer cottages

Depending on the method of construction, a country toilet can be divided into three types: street, peat, septic tank or cesspool.

Outdoor or summer toilet for the dacha is a separate building with a pit underneath for collecting waste - this is the simplest type, it will perfectly satisfy all the needs of the owners.

Fig.2.

Fig.3.

Its main advantage is that cleaning may not be performed for more than 10 years, due to the slow accumulation of waste. This is facilitated by its design; the pit is not sealed and has ventilation. Part of the liquid fraction evaporates, and part is absorbed into the soil. Thus, the accumulation of waste occurs very slowly.

Fig.4.

Fig.5.

Despite all the advantages of an outdoor toilet, it cannot be built when the groundwater level is high, more than 2.5 m. Otherwise, there will be water in the pit all the time, and not just in the spring, and sewage can get into the groundwater. This is especially dangerous if the water supply to the dacha is carried out using a well. Also, the installation of a country toilet is subject to certain standards for location on the site.

Peat or Finnish toilet for a summer residence- this is a structure without a pit; all sewage accumulates in a special tank. A country toilet of Finnish design is built as a separate building. It has a simple operating principle. After each use, waste products are sprinkled with peat, or a mixture of peat with ash, sawdust, and crushed bark. The mixture promotes the decomposition of sewage. Once the container is full, it must be emptied into a compost heap for further processing. Recycled waste is organic fertilizer, which can be used to feed plants.

Fig.6.

Fig.7.

This species has no location restrictions. The disadvantage of a dry composting toilet is that it requires regular removal of the contents. Therefore, it is advisable to arrange it if the dacha is used seasonally and is constantly used by no more than 1 - 2 people.

Fig.8.

Fig.9.

Fig. 10.

Septic tank allows you to organize a bathroom in a country house. This becomes possible thanks to a sealed cesspool, which can be installed anywhere on the site and at any groundwater level. A septic tank makes it possible to make a toilet in a country house with a toilet like in a city apartment. Unlike a country toilet, a septic tank can be used year-round. Therefore, it is usually arranged in places of permanent residence.

Fig. 11.

Fig. 12.

The disadvantage of a septic tank is its high cost and labor-intensive installation. The septic tank does not just accumulate waste, it processes it. A septic tank can be of various designs. Depending on the type of septic tank, the percentage of recycling is different, but does not reach 100%, so it is necessary to periodically pump out sediments, and doing this with your own hands is quite difficult. In this connection, the septic tank must be accessible for access by a sewage disposal truck.

Fig. 13.

Fig. 14.

Building an outdoor toilet with your own hands

Most dachas are used only in summer. Therefore, the outdoor toilet is most popular. The construction of a country toilet with a cesspool underneath will not require much effort; it is quite easy to do it yourself, and you can use improvised materials during construction.

Standards for the location of a toilet for a summer residence

The first stage of construction is choosing the location for its installation. When choosing a location, it is necessary to take into account sanitary standards.

Fig. 15.

The country toilet must be located at a distance of at least 8 m from residential buildings, at least 12 m from the cellar and at least 25 m from the source clean water(wells or wells). Therefore, it is usually located in the far corner of the garden.

Fig. 16.

Fig. 17.

Sooner or later, the cesspool will fill up and the toilet will no longer be usable. The pit can be cleaned or the toilet can be moved to another location. As a rule, they choose the second option, make a new hole next to the old one and move the cabin. Compositions with bacteria are added to the old cesspool, which will turn the sewage into compost in a couple of years. The compost can be extracted for fertilization and the pit can be reused.

How to make a pit toilet

Construction of a toilet for a summer residence begins with the installation of a cesspool. A standard pit has a depth of 1 - 1.5 m and a width of 1 m. If the groundwater is far enough away, then the depth of the toilet pit may be greater.

Fig. 18.

To prevent the pit from crumbling, it is necessary to strengthen the walls. They can be strengthened with bricks, rubble stones, old car tires, concrete rings or install a tank. A more durable option is concrete rings. However, the simplest, fastest and most popular is the barrel. This design uses a metal or plastic container with a volume of 200 liters.

Fig. 19.

Rubble is poured into the bottom of the cesspool in a layer of 10–15 cm. Holes are made in the barrel through which the liquid fraction of sewage will flow into the ground. Place the barrel in the hole and fill the perimeter with crushed stone. Crushed stone will act as drainage and prevent silting of the pit. Instead of crushed stone, you can use broken brick, stone, etc. In this way, the service life of a country toilet can be significantly increased.

Fig.20.

Fig.21.

Fig.22.

How to make a foundation for a toilet stall

The second stage of building a toilet for a summer house is the construction of a cabin. Traditionally, the cabin is made according to frame technology. First, the frame is assembled, then covered with clapboard, corrugated sheets or siding. A frame toilet can be assembled from wooden beams or welded from a metal profile.

Fig.23.

Fig.24.

Fig.25.

The cabin is enough lightweight design, so no special foundation is required. To prevent the toilet stall from standing directly on the ground, it is placed on concrete blocks. In turn, concrete blocks are placed on a sand cushion 10–20 cm thick. This approach provides a reliable base and natural ventilation, which contributes to the absence of odor.

Fig.26.

Fig.27.

Fig.28.

The easiest way is to make a booth from wood, because... When working with wood, no special tools, such as welding, are required. A wooden cabin will not heat up in the sun, unlike a toilet made of corrugated sheets, and it will be comfortable to use.

Fig.29.

You can make a wooden booth with your own hands from timber with a cross-section from 50x50 mm to 100x100 mm. First, assemble the base of the frame, then install vertical racks, after which the rafters are attached and the sheathing is made.

Fig.30.

Fig.31.

Fig.32.

All elements of the cabin frame are connected with self-tapping screws and construction metal corners. From the outside, it is covered with boards, slats or a block house, which makes the stall look like a toilet made of logs. Any roofing material can be used for the roof. The door for the toilet house can be made from boards or used ready-made.

Fig.33.

Fig.34.

Toilet seat

The toilet seat can be made in various ways. The two most popular options are a platform and a special plastic bucket. When making a platform, it is important to take into account that its height should be 45 cm and width 60 cm. These dimensions guarantee ease of use of the country toilet.

Fig.35.

Fig.36.

Fig.37.

An important point to consider when building a cabin is the presence of a window. The window performs two functions of lighting and ventilation. The window should not be glassed, so the house will not be hot and there will be no smell.

Fig.38.

Fig.39.

Toilet stall drawings

The toilet stall may have a different design, but the principle of construction is identical for all. Here are some examples.

Fig.40.

Fig.41.

Fig.42.

Fig.43.

Fig.44.

Fig.45.

Fig.46.

Fig.47.

Fig.48.

Fig.49.

Fig.50.

Fig.51.

Fig.52.

Cesspool toilet in the country

A septic tank for seasonal use is rarely made due to the high labor intensity of its construction. Of course, you can purchase a ready-made septic tank, but then you will have to pay a considerable amount of money for it. If the dacha is visited all year round, then installing a septic tank completely justifies the effort and money spent on it.

Fig.53.

A septic tank is a sealed chamber or several chambers into which waste products enter, where they accumulate and are partially processed. The main criterion for the construction of a septic tank is its volume. For a family of three people, the minimum volume of a septic tank should be 1.5 cubic meters.

The simplest septic tank consists of one chamber and is quite easy to do with your own hands, because... in essence, it is a sealed cesspool, which eliminates the leakage of sewage and flooding with groundwater.

Fig.54.

Fig.55.

The procedure for constructing a cesspool for a country toilet is as follows. They dig a pit 1.5 - 2 m deep. A sand cushion 20 cm thick is poured onto the bottom of the pit. Next, pour concrete slab 10 cm thick will be the bottom of the cesspool. After that, the walls of the cesspool are built from brick, stone or concrete. The outside of the building is waterproofed to protect it from groundwater. A sewer pipe from the toilet is connected to the cesspool. The sewer pipe is laid with a slope of 2-3 cm per 1 m of length. A roof is placed on top of the pit. The roof can be made of wood or concrete. For year-round use, the roof of the cesspool must be insulated. When creating a roof, be sure to provide a hatch for pumping out sewage.

Fig.56.

A simpler and faster option for creating a cesspool is to use ready-made concrete structures, for example, rings. In this case, it is necessary to dig a pit, install rings in it and run a sewer pipe from the country toilet.

Fig.57.

Fig.58.

Additionally, the septic tank must be insulated and equipped with ventilation. The simplest ventilation option is to install a vent riser in the house and bring the pipe to the roof level.

Operating a septic tank of this type is quite simple. Gradually it fills with sewage, and when 2/3 of the volume is filled, the septic tank is emptied by a sewage disposal machine. This will have to be done regularly, so the septic tank must be located in a place accessible to the sewer truck.

Diagrams and drawings of a homemade septic tank

Fig.59.

Fig.60.

Fig.61.

Fig.62.

Autonomous sewage system

An alternative to a homemade septic tank is the “Tank” septic tank. He is plastic barrel, divided into sections. First, the first section is filled, while solid waste sinks to the bottom, and only the liquid fraction remains on the surface. As it is filled, the liquid fraction is poured into the adjacent section, where similar processes occur. A composition containing anaerobic bacteria is added to the septic tank, which decomposes sewage. The water purified in this way is drained into the drain, and the sediment is pumped out by a sewer truck.

Fig.63.

Another option for a septic tank with a high percentage of waste recycling is a septic tank " Autonomous sewerage" The principle of its operation is similar to a traditional septic tank, with the only exception that the autonomous sewage system is equipped air compressor, which enriches sewage with oxygen, and the decomposition process occurs under the influence of aerobic bacteria. Autonomous sewerage is dependent on electricity, but allows for a high degree of recycling of waste.

Fig.64.

Fig.65.

Fig.66.

Installation of the last two types of septic tank involves preparing a pit, installing a septic tank in it and connecting it to the sewer system of the house.

We looked at all the ways to design and build a toilet for a summer house. If you plan to live or visit your dacha all year round and want to have the comfort of a city apartment, then you should immediately install a septic tank. If you visit your dacha only in the summer, then it is easier and faster to build a summer toilet with a cesspool under it. If you don’t go to your dacha often, then the simplest option for installing a toilet is a Finnish peat toilet. Whatever toilet option you choose, any of them will perfectly meet your needs, and the dacha will not be left without a toilet.

The time spent at the dacha, as a rule, is seasonal and relatively short in duration: usually it is 1-2 days off and, if you’re lucky, part of the vacation during a certain period. In such conditions, the issue of a comfortable life, even if it does not fade into the background, still takes on a slightly different meaning. Today we will talk, as the name implies, about an outdoor toilet - more precisely, about its own construction.

A toilet in a summer cottage, even if the construction of a residential building is still in the future, must be built: the needs of the human body do not know everyday conventions and can make themselves known at any time, even if you only visit for a couple of hours to weed and water the beds . That is why a toilet is always installed first on a new site.

In the most general terms, an outdoor toilet is a compact booth where a person can not only retire, but also reliably hide from the weather, as well as a certain volume where waste products of the body are collected. As a rule, this is an ordinary cesspool, deep enough and spacious enough to require the services (paid, by the way) of a sewer as little as possible.

However, there are other, structurally more complex options. It is according to the method of waste disposal that the main classification occurs. Next we will come back and talk about other types of outdoor toilets.

First, let's look at the outside of the toilet, so to speak, the types of stalls and methods of making them that are most suitable for DIY construction.

Classification by cabin type

The booth or cabin of a country toilet in most cases belongs to one of four types:

1. “Birdhouse”,
2. Hut, or “teremok”,
3. hut,
4. House.

Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages, as do the materials used for their construction - wood, metal profiles, slate, brick, as well as their combinations.

When planning the construction of a toilet, you do not need to come up with its design yourself: each type has long been developed by specialists and tested many times, and the drawings are available and contain optimal sizes, allowing you to maintain compactness and ensure ease of use.

“Birdhouse”

Let’s start traditionally with perhaps the simplest, and therefore the most common, option, called a “birdhouse” due to a certain similarity with a bird’s house: the same parallelepiped extended upward with a pitched roof sloping back.

Typical birdhouse toilet

As can be judged from the presented drawings and photographs, the design of such a toilet is simple and consists of a frame covered with suitable material, with a single door in the front. Most often used for frames wooden beam, from the same timber, or a smaller section, diagonal struts are made to give rigidity to the structure, and then everything is sheathed with boards. At the joints of the boards, narrow, 30-40 mm, “flashing” strips are traditionally stuffed to prevent air from blowing out of the cracks that are sure to form over time, no matter how tightly you fit the boards to each other.

Use of building materials

Wood is the most accessible material, which is easy to process and does not require special skills or special tools.

Metal is another matter: this material is perfect for our purposes, but for mounting a frame made of profile pipe required welding machine and good electric welding skills. The cladding is made with sheets of corrugated sheets, which are fastened with self-tapping screws or rivets. You can’t do this without an electric drill, a screwdriver or a riveter.

Often they choose the “middle” option: wooden frame sheathe metal sheets or a metal frame - chipboard or USB boards: often the determining factor is the presence suitable materials, for example, remnants from a “big” construction site.

The usual slate is also sometimes used as the walls of a country toilet, at least as a temporary option until the main construction is completed. Slate is most often used as a pitched roof, although, of course, the “metal” version is no worse.

Sometimes the “birdhouse” is covered with boards, which are then lined with roofing felt or other similar material. This, of course, is not the most the best option, however, can be implemented as a temporary one.

Building brick toilet walls is a good, solid and expensive option. Such a solution can often be seen already at the stage of improvement of the territory, when all residential and utility structures have already been built. A toilet made of the same brick as the rest of the buildings in the yard will look harmonious in the overall exterior.

One thing to remember when planning to build a toilet for your dacha with your own hands is: step-by-step instruction will be special for each of the options, of which there are quite a lot. Structures can work according to different principles, and materials for construction are selected taking into account their cost, durability and aesthetic appeal. Experts recommend that before purchasing materials and building a toilet, not only carefully consider the chosen option, but also make the necessary calculations, find the optimal location for installation, and draw a diagram or drawing.

When choosing a design to build a toilet in a country house with your own hands, they focus, first of all, on the comfort of using the building. Moreover, not only visiting the toilet should be convenient, but also servicing it. In order to do right choice, you should familiarize yourself with the operating features of each of the toilet options.

Pit toilets

The easiest option for waste disposal is a do-it-yourself toilet pit in the country. A house is installed above it, often called in everyday life, depending on the appearance, “birdhouse” or “hut”, the degree of comfort of which depends on the capabilities of the master. The pit is cleaned using a sewer truck. Similar designs - not the most perfect, but due to the simplicity of the device and cost-effectiveness, they remain popular and in demand when it comes to suburban areas, where owners do not appear often. Toilets with cesspools are also suitable for dachas where a small number of people live.

The photo shows a diagram of a toilet above a cesspool

Backlash closets

The backlash closet is an improved design of a toilet with a cesspool; its distinctive feature is the complete sealing of the storage tank. A backlash closet can be arranged in such a way that the toilet is located in a heated room (house), and the storage tank is located outside it (as a rule, against the wall adjacent to the toilet). The toilet is connected to the storage tank by an inclined or vertical pipe, through which waste flows by gravity into the tank. Due to the tightness, cleaning of the backlash closet storage can only be done with the help of vacuum trucks. Backlash closet more convenient and hygienic than a regular toilet in a country house with a cesspool.

When arranging a backlash closet, the toilet is located in the room, which is an advantage of this type of design

Powder closets

Powder closets are great in cases where when there is groundwater in the area close to the surface. This feature may cause trouble when installing other structures, but will not affect the operation of the powder closet. A significant advantage of this version of a country toilet is the possibility of minimal costs transform waste into environmentally friendly organic fertilizer. The powder closet gets its name from the principle of operation - the waste in the storage tank is sprinkled (“powdered”) with a dry composition (peat or peat-sawdust mixture). As a result, the occurrence of putrefactive processes is prevented and the likelihood of unpleasant odors is minimized. Waste, sprinkled with peat, is unloaded into the toilet tank as it fills. compost pit, where they turn into compost.

Powder closets can be stationary with large storage units or compact portable ones. In the second case, a small-sized structure can be brought into the house at night or during rain.

Dry toilets

The dry closets, which are a ready-made compact toilet, have become popular and have proven themselves really well in use. Their operating principle may be similar to the operation of a peat powder closet. Recycling and decomposition of waste in such peat dry closets occurs using a peat mixture.

In other models it is possible for recycling. Dry or liquid fillers contain cultures of certain types of bacteria.

In chemical models, active substances for waste decomposition are chemicals. When choosing, you should take into account that safe and effective fillers are more expensive than others, and some substances used by uninformed summer residents (bleach, formaldehyde, etc.) are prohibited due to toxicity.

Choosing a place to build a toilet

When telling how to make a toilet in a country house with your own hands, experts usually place special emphasis on where it is best to place the structure. In this regard, there are absolute requirements that must be met in any case. They determine the minimum distances from the toilet to residential and outbuildings, water sources and other objects:

• to a house that has a cellar or basement, as well as to a garage or barn with similar underground structures - 12 meters,
• to the source of drinking water – 25 meters,
• to a barn without a cellar, garage or sauna - 8 meters,
• to the fence - 1 meter.

• Placing the building according to the wind rose will allow the structure to be installed so that the unpleasant smell does not cause inconvenience to the owners or disturb the neighbors.
• If the site has complex terrain, it is recommended to choose a level place for the toilet, and if there is a source of water in the country, the toilet is located below it in level.
• If you need to use the services of a cesspool truck to pump out a toilet, you need to provide for the possibility of its access to the cesspool, taking into account the length of the equipment hose.

Selection of materials

Building a toilet in a country house with your own hands is possible from various materials. Choice determined by cost and availability various options. For example, if an outdoor toilet is being installed as a temporary structure during the construction of a full-fledged sewer system, you can choose cheaper materials. If the dacha is visited only in the summer and an outdoor toilet is the only option, it is better to choose reliability and durability, even if additional costs are required.

Wooden models

Wooden outdoor toilets- This is probably the most common option. It combines economy and practicality, however, it should be borne in mind that wood is susceptible to moisture. To protect the material, special impregnations can be used. The service life of the material can be significantly increased by priming and painting the boards. Lovers of the natural texture of wood often coat structures with a transparent moisture-proof varnish.

Brick toilet

A brick toilet is a permanent structure that will stand for decades without requiring repairs. The cost of materials for such a structure is higher, but if you have some bricks left after building a house or garage, you should take advantage of this opportunity. If you are planning to build a brick toilet in your country house with your own hands, do not forget that the massive structure requires installation on a foundation. Experts recommend choosing a strip foundation for a country toilet. It requires less excavation work, reduces the consumption of cement for pouring, but ensures the reliability and safety of structures on almost any soil. Although for structures made of lighter materials it is also possible to use a columnar foundation.

Using corrugated sheets

A country toilet made of corrugated sheets is frame construction, covered with sheet metal material. The corrugated sheeting has a coating that protects it from moisture, so it can be used for outdoor buildings without any risk. The frame of the building is optionally made of wood or metal. The use of corrugated sheets can significantly reduce the construction time of a toilet.

Construction of a toilet with a cesspool

If you are building such a toilet for your dacha with your own hands, the step-by-step instructions begin with the storage device.

• Digging a pit. Its volume is usually calculated based on the conditions of use (number of people, frequency and duration of visits to a summer cottage, etc.). Usually a pit 2 meters deep is quite sufficient. The cross-section of such a pit is a square with sides of 1 meter or a circle with a diameter of one meter. These parameters can be increased slightly taking into account the need to strengthen the walls of the pit.
• Doing the bottom. The most in a simple way The bottom may be filled with crushed stone or gravel. However, this method does not exclude partial penetration of waste from the toilet into the soil. If groundwater is located in an area close to the surface of the earth, it is better to make the bottom impenetrable, for example, by flooding it concrete mortar.
• Strengthening walls. You can strengthen the walls of a cesspool for a toilet in a country house with your own hands using brickwork, concrete rings or concrete mortar using poured construction technology (the mortar is gradually poured into the formwork, no more than 50 cm in height at a time). In all cases, it is important to ensure the tightness of the structure (fill the seams between the rings, avoid gaps when performing brickwork). To protect surface water in the area from sewage entering it, the walls can be plastered or covered with a waterproofing layer for greater reliability.

Important: If the groundwater level in your area is higher than 2.5 meters, then the cesspool must be made completely sealed, including the bottom.

After this, the selected house structure is erected over the pit. Most often in such cases a wooden structure is installed.

Construction of a wooden house step by step

Toilet ventilation

Despite the fact that the correct installation of a country toilet with your own hands allows you to minimize the appearance unpleasant odor, and many models exclude the occurrence of putrefactive processes in the mass of waste, a toilet in the country, made with a cesspool, or another structure must be provided with ventilation.

The ventilation pipe is inserted into the storage tank no less than 15 cm. Light and durable plastic pipes are well suited for these purposes. sewer pipes with a diameter of 100 mm. For stability, they are attached from the outside to the wall of the building using metal clamps. The ventilation pipe should rise approximately 50 cm above the roof. Protection ventilation pipe from rain and debris using a deflector installed at the end of the pipe.

Construction of a backlash closet

If you are deciding how to build a toilet at your dacha yourself, a backlash closet should be considered as one of optimal options. It is very simple to implement and does not require significant expenses. At the same time, such structures are more comfortable than ordinary “birdhouses” with holes.

First of all, it is important to choose a location for excavation work. The waste pit, unlike many other structures, is located directly next to the house, since the toilet from which the waste will flow will be located inside the house. So, you need to designate a place for the toilet inside the room and a place for the storage tank near the adjacent wall. The depth of the pit must be at least 1 meter, and its walls must be completely waterproofed. Experts recommend making the bottom and walls of the tank from poured concrete, followed by covering the structure that has gained strength with a waterproofing layer (for example, bitumen). You can increase the reliability of waterproofing using a clay castle (the thickness of the layer is at least 0.5 m).

The upper part of the toilet pit is closed with a double lid - a layer of heat insulation is installed between the layers of cast iron and wood. Gravity flow of waste can be ensured by the inclination of the pipe that leads from the toilet to the storage tank (in this case, at the construction stage it is necessary to provide an inlet for it, and after entering it, seal the seam) or by the design of the tank itself (an expanding pit that goes under the house in the direction from the toilet to the street with a sloping floor). Ventilation is necessary for the backlash closet. In the cold season, the efficiency of the hood can be ensured by the temperature difference, and in the summer it is better to use an exhaust fan.

Powder-closet device

If you are building such a country toilet with your own hands step by step, the instructions will be quite concise. The simplicity of the device is explained, among other things, by the fact that the powder closet does not require the construction of a pit. For compact designs excavation are not needed at all, but stationary ones may require a depression in the ground into which a storage container (bucket or tank) will be placed. The construction of a powder closet boils down to installing a container under the toilet seat for collecting sewage and supplying the toilet with a box with backfill (peat, sawdust, etc.) and a scoop. You should fill up waste after each visit to the restroom.

Video

The video will clearly demonstrate how to build a toilet in a country house with your own hands. The video lists necessary materials with dimensions, tools, and also a sequence of work with comments.

Toilet in the country photo

Here we have selected several photographs on the topic of our article “How to make a toilet in the country with your own hands.”