For any motorist, a garage is not just an additional room near the house, but a building element that serves to store an iron horse, and is also used as a pantry or workshop. Therefore, here, too, climatic conditions must be provided that will be comfortable for the car. And this may require repairs garage doors or insulation, since this part is vulnerable. There are simple troubleshooting steps. Knowing them, you will be able to carry out all the work with your own hands.
Insulation of garage doors
For proper insulation the gate must follow certain rules:
- pay attention not only to the insulation of the door leaf, but also to the sealing of joints and cracks using a material that is characterized by a high coefficient of expansion;
- carefully select a heater, the thermal conductivity of which is higher than that of the walls of the garage;
- compliance with safety regulations;
- thickness thermal insulation material must be the same over the entire area of the goal;
- carry out the process at a positive temperature.
Is it necessary to insulate and why?
As a rule, they are made of metal. Because of this, problems arise. IN winter time year they are prone to frostbite. This happens due to the fact that uneven freezing of the garage perimeter occurs, since only the gates are metal. After all, it is metal, not brick, that is the most heat-conducting element. Because of this, the gate condenses moisture from inside the garage, and when negative temperature air, this condensate turns into ice.
Condensation appears at any time of the year due to daily temperature fluctuations. And this threatens to create some problems:
- Corrosion due to prolonged exposure to moisture. Uninsulated gates rust much faster, and this happens even if stainless steel was used for their manufacture.
- Condensation settles on all metal objects located in the garage, including the car, which usually drives into a cold garage warm due to constant work. The garage is designed to preserve it, but in the absence of insulated gates, on the contrary, it contributes to its deterioration. In an unprepared garage, a car rots faster, and this, unfortunately, is not a myth.
- The ice prevents the gate from being opened. Trying to do this quickly may cause damage.
There are many reasons to insulate your garage door as quickly as possible. But it needs to be done correctly.
Material selection
The first issue that needs to be resolved is the choice of thermal insulation material. Each of them has its own specifications, which can be both an advantage and a disadvantage. The table will help you familiarize yourself with them.
Table: insulation materials
Knowing these characteristics, you can form a holistic picture of each material, based on which you can make a choice:
- Expanded polystyrene is not as resistant to fire, but the advantages are low thermal conductivity and high resistance to moisture.
- Polyurethane foam allows you to perform insulation without seams, and it can be applied to an unprepared surface. This material is absolutely resistant to temperature changes and chemical agents, thereby ensuring the strength and durability of insulated gates. But for this pleasure you will have to pay a considerable amount.
- Mineral wool does not burn. Since there is a high risk of sparks in a garage, it is worth considering using this material. However, when installing it, you need to take care of additional hydro- and vapor barrier.
- Foam plastic almost does not conduct heat and has high moisture resistance, which is very important when insulating gates. And also, thanks to its low density, there will be no additional load on the gate. Polystyrene foam is absolutely safe for humans and environment. Moreover, it is sufficient available material and easy to process. Therefore, foam plastic is considered almost ideal for insulating metal garage doors.
There are other materials that are suitable for this purpose, for example liquid foam- penoizol.
Calculation of the amount of material
To ensure high-quality insulation of gates, you need to carefully calculate the consumption of all necessary materials in advance. In addition to the selected insulation, you will also need facing material, which will be used to decorate the gate at the end of the work. It could be:
- lining;
- corrugated sheeting;
- Fiberboard or MDF;
- plywood (it is recommended to choose moisture-resistant);
- OSB boards (ideal option because it is high-strength, vapor-tight, easy to process, and cheap).
To calculate the amount facing material you need to know the dimensions of the gate. As a rule, when using OSB boards for insulation, two pieces are enough, since standard sizes them are 125*250cm.
For cladding you will need to install sheathing. It must be placed on the gate leaf. For this it is better to take wooden blocks minimum 4*2.5 cm. They need to be mounted around the perimeter of the canvas, and can be attached to metal corners. When calculating it general design dimensions must be taken into account load-bearing elements gates, foam boards (or other insulation), and the fastening step of the facing material must be at least 40 cm. The bars must first be treated with an antiseptic to prevent them from rotting.
To install the sheathing, you will also need galvanized self-tapping screws:
- for fastening to the side surface - 3.5*30 mm;
- for end mounting - 4.5*70 mm.
The length of the screw depends on whether the sheathing will be attached to metal corners or a pipe. In the second case, the length should be increased. To calculate their quantity, you need to make a drawing of the gate insulation on paper.
It is better to fasten OSB boards with screws with a press washer 32 mm long. The quantity is calculated in the same way.
For high-quality insulation of metal gates, you must not forget about anti-corrosion protection. A special primer is suitable for this. It must be applied to a degreased surface.
Can't do without polyurethane foam, which is needed for attaching insulation boards to the gate and sealing cracks.
Tools
To ensure high-quality insulation of metal garage doors, you need a number of tools that almost every good owner has:
- Electric drill.
- Drill. It is necessary to take care in advance of the availability of drills for working with wood and metal (if the sheathing is wooden).
- Screwdrivers of various sections. Can be replaced with a screwdriver.
- Wood saw. If so, then a jigsaw. It will speed up the work.
- A metal brush with metal bristles or an appropriate drill attachment.
In addition to these tools, you may need others, for example:
- brush or roller for applying antiseptic;
- hammer;
- core (used for marking drill holes);
- tape measure or meter ruler;
- square;
- construction knife;
- sandpaper;
- clamps (needed to secure elements).
Step-by-step instruction
Once the material has been selected and calculated, the tool has been prepared, you can begin directly insulating the garage door. All work takes place in several stages (in the case of foam insulation):
- Preparatory work. This stage under no circumstances should it be missed, since this largely depends on the quality of the thermal insulation. If there is rust on the canvas, you need to get rid of it using a special attachment on a drill. It is recommended to walk over the entire surface of the gate sandpaper, and then with a degreaser. Next, an anti-corrosion primer is applied in two layers (the second layer can be applied only after the first has dried thoroughly). Now is the time to install the waterproofing layer. Bitumen mastic, vapor barrier membrane, and isolon are suitable for this.
- Installation of sheathing. On inner surface install the gate sheathing. It can be metal or wood. Needs to be attached to the base metal sheet self-tapping screws or self-tapping screws. Make fastenings according to the drawing, and for this you need to make markings, and then drill holes without overheating the drill. The bars must all be solid, it is recommended to tighten them with clamps, and then drill them with a thin drill.
If there is a problem with attaching the lower horizontal beam to the frame or gate, then it can only be attached at the end. If it is possible to remove the gate, then this must be done in order to reach the frame with a tool.
If desired, the slabs can be painted in your favorite color, however, even without this, the main goal of insulation will be achieved.
Do-it-yourself garage repair: how and why to do it
Timely execution repair work- a necessity, since the gate can penetrate cold air, which adversely affects the technical condition of the car. Fortunately, carry out Maintenance You can do it yourself.
How to raise the gate
There may be several reasons why this type of repair is required. Most often, it is necessary to raise the gate when it is impossible to open it not only in winter due to icing, but also in summer. The most in a simple way The solution to this problem is to trim the gate and then concrete the driveway. However, it is better to carry out a full repair so as not to reduce the dimensions of the structure.
Gate lifting steps:
- Dismantle them and release the frame. Before removing the gate from its hinges, it is recommended to wash the mortar between the bricks.
- Remove several rows of bricks from the top of the garage opening. Instead of bricks, lay a channel or a high-strength corner, which are secured with anchor bolts. This will save the gate structure from further destruction.
- In the lower area, raise the fill slightly. You can seal the gap between the gate and the floor in another way, for example, by concreting. You can also make a small threshold. Regardless of the method of eliminating the gap, you need to ensure that the slope is directed towards the street, otherwise excess moisture in the garage cannot be avoided, especially during heavy rain.
How to strengthen the frame on the wall
One of the problems that can affect the ease of use of the garage is the door frame coming away from the wall. You can carry out this type of repair yourself. This is done as follows:
- Remove the old gate.
- to the gate with inside weld the metal belt.
- Replace old hinges with new ones.
- It is recommended to install metal corners and reinforcement where the frame is attached to the wall.
- Install the gate, observing all the rules.
It is necessary to carefully strengthen the gate frame to the wall, since this is one of the vulnerable points of the garage.
How to replace a gate
In some cases, a complete replacement of the gate is necessary. This can happen for many reasons, such as when the structure has become unusable due to rust and rot. The gate replacement process only takes a few hours. During this time they are carried out following works(after dismantling the old gate):
- Frame installation. It will give the gate the necessary rigidity and allow the doors to move easily. First, the outer and inner parts of the frame are installed to the opening. For this, metal pins with a length of 150 to 180 mm are used (it is recommended that their ends be processed with a welding machine, sanded and painted).
- Provide additional fastening of the gate with iron jumpers. The distance between them should be from 2 to 4 cm.
- Fixation of shutters on hinges.
How to correct misalignment and adjust correctly
Problems arise when the geometry of the gate is violated. You can solve it depending on the cause of the problem:
Video on the topic
Repairing and insulating garage doors is a painstaking task; not every owner wants to do everything themselves. However, if it is not possible to invite an experienced specialist, then these tips will help you do everything quickly and efficiently.
A blind fence is needed to enclose and protect private territory land or summer cottage. Naturally, the fence must have an entrance. At first a gate was enough, then a gate was needed for the carriage, and then for the car.
Metal gates and a wicket will provide entry/entry into the yard and guarantee safety for the residents of the house. Earlier iron gate sheathed sheet metal 3-5 mm, in modern conditions corrugated board is popular.
According to the method of opening, all types of metal/wood gates can be divided into two groups: swing and sliding.
By type of gate device: built-in (inside) and free-standing (nearby).
You can buy ready-made gates from corrugated sheets, order them made to size, or make them yourself. Let's take a closer look at the last option - homemade gates, as a cheap and affordable option.
Since swing doors are an easier design to manufacture, we will describe how to make swing gates from corrugated sheets on your own. The strength and aesthetic properties of the profiled sheet, as well as the price/quality ratio, allow us to talk about the feasibility of such a choice of cladding. As for the gate, we will describe two options for the device.
Do-it-yourself gates made of corrugated sheets -
step-by-step instruction
Step-by-step technology for manufacturing a structure with a separate gate.
Stage 1 – dimensions of gates made of corrugated sheets with and without a wicket
Please note that the installation of swing gates requires taking into account the layout of the site/yard.
Width of corrugated gates
The width of the gate opening is determined based on the width of the car (including mirrors) plus one additional meter for reserve.
Width is also taken into account support pillars(colon). When installing a gate with a free-standing gate, there will be three posts. In addition, you need to take into account the size of the gaps between the support pillars and the frame frame. As well as the size of the gap between the swing gate leaves, taking into account the parameters of the fittings.
- The optimal opening width for gates is 4500-5000 mm.
- The standard width of a gate made of corrugated sheets is 1200 mm.
Advice. Since you can’t get by with one sheet per sash, it is advisable to calculate the width of the sash based on the width of the corrugated sheet.
The table shows the dependence of the width of the gate leaf on the width of the profiled sheet.
Material prepared for the website www.site
Height of corrugated gates
The height of swing gates made of corrugated sheets is 2200-2500 mm. This is explained by the standard length of the corrugated sheet - 2,000 mm. Although the manufacturer can offer any length with a resolution of 50 mm.
In addition, the gap at the bottom (between the gate leaves and the ground) is taken into account, which is necessary to ensure the functioning of the gate during the formation of ice and high snow cover. The gap under the gate is 150-300 mm.
The height of the gate is influenced by the presence of decorative elements on top. For example, the use of forging allows you to increase the height of gates made of corrugated sheets and decoratively decorate the structure, as a result of which the entrance group looks more respectable.
Advice. If the gap from the ground seems too large, you can install a removable bar at the bottom of the gate, which must be removed at the beginning of winter.
Stage 2 – Drawing of a gate made of corrugated sheets
A diagram or drawing of swing gates is necessary to simplify the calculation of the amount of material and assess the rigidity of the structure.
Two ways to make swing gates:
- with one large leaf (single leaf). The disadvantage of this method is that it requires a lot of space to maneuver the gate, as well as its large windage. Reducing the windage due to additional frame parts leads to an increase in the load on the hinges, which in turn leads to misalignment of the sash. This method is only suitable for gates with a small opening width or for installing a wicket gate;
- with two doors (double doors). All the disadvantages described above are eliminated, but the manufacturing cost increases due to the addition of hinges and frame elements. It is possible to have a device with the same or different width sashes. Double-leaf swing gates have the advantage of being more resistant to wind loads.
The diagram of swing gates made of corrugated sheets should contain:
- the total width of the opening. It will be necessary to make a maneuver if necessary - when increasing gaps or changing the size of fittings;
- the width of each sash;
- number, width of racks and depth of digging of racks;
- frame configuration indicating the width of its constituent elements;
- location and width of the gate. This is an important aspect. Manufacturing a gate from corrugated sheets simultaneously with the frame for the gate will reduce the duration of the project. And if the gate is located inside the gate frame, the drawing will allow you to take into account its location when marking and cutting blanks;
- location for installing hinges;
- place and method of installing the lock;
- location of the internal door latch (vertical latch).
Frame reinforcement elements must be applied to the drawing of a gate made of corrugated sheets. It is the visualization of the future gate that allows you to understand which element to use and determine the location of its installation, taking into account the wind load.
Ways to strengthen gates made of corrugated sheets:
1. weld a corner for rigidity.
This method is suitable if the width of the sashes is small (up to 1,500 mm each). The corner can be solid (kerchief) or in the form of a corner jumper (spacer). The wider the corner or the closer to the center the jumper is installed, the stiffer the gate frame will be.
2. make a frame inside or above the frame.
In the first case, workpieces of a smaller cross-section are placed in the cells of the frame and are tacked by welding in increments of 200-300 mm.
A continuous seam is not allowed to prevent deformation of the metal due to heating (to prevent it from leading and twisting).
In the second, a pipe of smaller cross-section is welded over the main frame. The figure shows a top view of such a reinforcement. 3. install transverse or diagonal jumpers.
It is important to install the jumpers correctly here. If a gate made of corrugated sheets has a slight windage and it is enough to install one transverse jumper perpendicular to the long frame elements, then the situation with gates is more complicated. In this case, it makes more sense to use a diagonal jumper.
Methods for installing a lintel on a gate made of corrugated sheets are shown in the photo.
Gate stiffeners – location options:
A) Despite its apparent simplicity, this option is quite thoughtful, since it guarantees the integrity of the gate leaves. On the one hand, it will be held in place by hinges; the possibility of deformation is eliminated from above due to the reinforcement of the corners. It will be held at the bottom by horizontal clamps (latches);
b) This is the most economical of the options presented, but it creates reinforcement only in the middle of the frame. The only advantage is that it makes it possible to install a lock on a jumper.
V) The disadvantage of this option is the weak reinforcement of the upper internal corners. Strong winds can deform the sash;
G) in this case there is no strengthening of the left inner corner;
d) in this case there is no strengthening of both internal corners;
e) perfect option. Places of insertion of the lock, installation of hinges, lower clamps and upper corners are reinforced. This method eliminates frame torsion.
Advice. The wider the sash, the more the frame is reinforced.
Stage 3 – tools and material for gates made of corrugated sheets
The drawing of a gate made of corrugated sheets is visual aid to calculate the material. To make it you will need:
- corrugated sheeting - for cladding. It is preferable to take a wall, because. it has a large working width.
- self-tapping screws or rivets for fastening the profiled sheet;
- metal pipe with a cross section of 60x60 mm and above - for support pillars;
- pipe with a cross section of 40x40 or 60x20...60 mm. – for elements of the frame of the sashes (frame);
- pipe 20x20 to strengthen the frame (if necessary). 20x20 is suitable for a frame made of 60x20 pipe. 30x30 - if a 60x30 pipe was used.
Masters advise buying all pipes with a thickness of 3 mm, not 2. Their price is somewhat more expensive, but it will be much easier for beginners to weld them. The metal heats up more slowly and does not deform as quickly.
- metal sheet for forming scarves (if necessary);
- hinges, locks (latches, latches, plugs), lower clamps;
- metal primer and paint;
- decorative elements (forging).
Tools you will need: welding machine, grinder, screwdriver (drill and riveter), tape measure, level, plumb line, metal scissors, brushes and Consumables to the instrument.
Stage 4 - installation of support posts for gates from corrugated board
Installation of gates from corrugated board begins with the installation of support pillars. The most common way to install gate posts is to dig in followed by concreting.
How to properly install gate posts
- dig a hole with a garden drill. Using a shovel increases concrete consumption. How larger diameter support, the larger the diameter of the recess should be. For a pipe with a cross-section of 60x60, the diameter of the drill should be 120 mm.
How deep should gate posts be buried? Installation depth is 1/3 of the support length
- pour a mixture of crushed stone and sand into the recess. The thickness of the pillow is 150-300 mm. The cushion is designed to prevent the influence of frost heaving of the soil and ensure the outflow of water from the base of the support, thereby slowing down its destruction;
- prepare the support (coat it with anti-corrosion primer);
- install the support strictly vertically. The slightest deviation will lead to distortion of the entire structure. Correct installation is checked with a plumb line or level;
- concrete the support. While the concrete is setting, you can begin making the frame;
- cover the upper part of the support with a metal plate or a special decorative element. As a last resort, pour concrete into the post (concrete from the inside) to prevent water from getting inside and thereby prevent the pillar from collapsing.
What kind of corrugated gate posts can be used?
In addition to metal pipe supports, you can install a concrete pillar or use piles. Supports decorated (lined) with brick or stone (brick pillars) look beautiful. When calculating the width of the gate opening, you should take into account the material of manufacture and the width of the support.
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Stage 5 – manufacturing gate frames from corrugated sheets
Before starting production, you need to measure the width of the opening of the gate and gate again in order to make timely changes to the size of the leaves.
Manufacturing technology:
- the metal is dissolved into blanks. It is advisable to make the cut at an angle of 45° for more reliable fastening. Although butt welding of parts is also found, it is easier to cut workpieces and weld them;
Advice. Masters advise welding the upper corners at an angle of 45 degrees, this will prevent water from flowing into them, and the lower ones can be butted.
- each workpiece is cleaned of dirt and rust;
- weld the frame elements together. And first, the workpieces are baited, and after checking the geometry, they are welded with a continuous seam;
- the frame is reinforced (if necessary);
- welded seams are carefully cleaned;
- degrease the frame, coat with a primer and paint the welding points. After the paint dries - paint the frame completely.
Advice. The manufacture of gates from corrugated board requires great accuracy in observing dimensions. When making a sash frame, it is better to make the frame a little smaller than larger. In the first case, to eliminate the gap between the wings of the swing gates, it will be enough to weld the flashing on one frame leaf, where it adjoins the second. In the second, you will need to cut the frame, and reduce its width.
Stage 6 - installation of hinges for swing gates from corrugated board
Garage hinges (canopies) are used to install gates.
How to properly weld hinges on gates made of corrugated sheets?
First, the hinge is welded onto the support post, then onto the gate frame at a distance of 200-300 mm from the edge of the door frame. Please note that the location of the hinge affects the position of the door when open. If it is necessary for the gate to open in both directions, the hinge is butt welded to the support. If there is only one, the loop is placed on the frame. To prevent the sash from reaching the fence, install a limiter.
How many hinges should be welded on the gate?
If the gate is reinforced, three hinges are required for each leaf. If you are light, two are enough.
Stage 7 – installation of corrugated sheeting on the gate
The corrugated sheet is mounted on one or both sides of the frame. The installation rules are not complicated, but knowing and following them will help you install the corrugated sheet on the gate correctly.
In general terms: you need to ensure reliable fastening of the sheet to the frame by fixing the corrugated sheet through one lower wave of the sheet. In this case, the profiled sheet is also screwed to the diagonal or perpendicular jumpers. And two sheets are connected to each other at the top of the wave (at the crest).
Rivets or self-tapping screws are used for fastening. Rivets look more elegant (especially those matched to the color of the corrugated sheet), self-tapping screws eliminate the possibility of water flowing into the installation site. Of course, this is not as critical as on the roof, but the appearance of rusty smudges over time cannot be avoided.
Stage 8 – installation of fittings (components for gates)
Additional elements:
- lock for swing gates made of corrugated board. It is installed after the sashes are hung.
Types of locks and how to install/install (installation rules):
- mounted It is necessary to provide loops for the lock when welding the frame and attaching corrugated sheets;
- overhead. It is installed on a crossbar, most often on an additionally welded flat sheet of metal. Or it is screwed directly to the frame with hardware. Craftsmen do not recommend using welding to install the locking mechanism structure, because the lock needs maintenance and replacement;
- mortise The lock cuts into the plane of the pipe; a metal pocket is used to hide/decorate the installation site.
- lower lock of the swing gate leaf - needed to redistribute the load from the lock and additionally secure the lower part of the open/closed gate leaf from the wind (wind load).
- gate latch (bolt), designed to close the gate from the inside (locking). The latch is more suitable for a gate, and for swing gates a lock (bolt) is used.
- automation for swing gates. Allows you to open the gate remotely, which is very convenient when it’s cold, raining or dark.
- security system: external surveillance camera, warning light, alarm.
Swing gates made of corrugated sheets with a built-in wicket
We’ll separately tell you how to make swing gates with a wicket made of corrugated sheets. This option is used when the opening is not wide enough to install gates and a separate wicket.
Options for the location of the wicket in the gate
Locations:
When making sash frames, they are made different sizes. Then the narrower sash serves as a gate.
This is the most a budget option, since the load on only one gate post increases, which will require the installation of an additional hinge and reinforcement of the frame. Overall, costs will go down.
In the middle of the gate leaf. The option with a location in the middle is good because the frame of the gate serves as a reinforcement of the frame of the sash. And installing hinges not in the center, but closer to the top and bottom of the gate will further strengthen the structure. 
Closer to the support pillar. In this case, the main load falls on the support post, because both the gate frame and the gate frame rest on it. 
Closer to inner edge doors This design is the most "flimsy", its weak link the junction of two doors and a gate. In the last three cases, during the manufacturing process of the frame, they provide additional frame for the gate. Moreover, it is made more reinforced than for a free-standing gate, since it accounts for wind load, which acts on gate leaves made of corrugated sheets. Please note that the gate will greatly overload the frame, which means that additional hinges and reinforcement of the sash frame will be needed. In general, the technology of manufacturing gates from corrugated board with a wicket inside is carried out similarly to the manufacture of gates with a separate wicket. All the nuances are considered during the drawing process.
Advice. The lower clamp for such models of swing gates made of corrugated sheets is required.
Advantages and disadvantages of swing gates made of corrugated sheets
Advantages (pros):
- comparative simplicity of design and manufacture;
- low compared to sliding gates, price;
- ease of operation and maintenance;
- availability for installation of automation;
Disadvantages (cons):
- requirements for free space for maneuver (opening will require the release of an area equal to the width of the gate leaf);
- the need to take into account the wind load;
- the need to provide for fastening open gates in order to avoid their unauthorized closing (latch, stop, locking devices);
- setting the limiter open gate did not damage the fence canvas, and did not block access to the gate;
- the difficulty of care in the winter season, which lies in the need to remove snow over a large area.
Approximate prices for swing gates made of corrugated board
Conclusion
As you can see, with some effort you can make and install swing gates from corrugated sheets with your own hands in 1-2 weeks, which will decorate entrance group and will reliably serve as a beautiful business card of a private house.
Before we talk about how to install posts for swing gates, let’s highlight the product – gate posts. There is always misunderstanding with gate posts. There is mainly disagreement over whether gate posts are considered part of the gate itself or not. For some reason, many Customers are 100% sure of this and are perplexed when it is explained to them that this is not so. The client believes that gates, in principle, cannot exist only in the form of two separate leaves, and especially without welded gate hinges. Or another extreme, when the Customer still allows the existence of a similar set of gates without pillars, but it should be quite cheap. Of course, the easiest way is to direct such a Customer in a further search for the gate he needs and not save his nerves on explaining elementary things that are axioms for the gate manufacturer. But the fact that there are no extra Customers is a fact. The opinion that swing gates must be equipped with gate posts is completely groundless. Like, if there are gate leaves, and they cannot hang in the air, the gate hinges must be attached to something, and if so, then the gate kit must also include gate posts. Such logic about gates can only be made by a person who is very far from construction work and does not understand the technology of installing gates and the order of installation of products when erecting a fence. In reality, the gate posts are installed much earlier than the gate itself, and it is from these posts that the gate dimensions will be taken. That is, the gate posts are already ready and look good, but the gate itself is not yet in the sketches. Posts for the gate, it is more correct to say, part of the fence configuration. A smart builder who erects a fence is always interested in where the gates and gates will be located. And he always begins work with the installation of pillars for gates and gates. And then he lays brick or other material.
Options for installing posts for metal gates
Installing gate posts is not an easy job. If you do not have experience in correctly installing gate posts, the result will be disastrous. Over time, gate posts will tilt, the gate will jam, or stop working properly altogether. All this can be avoided. What you need to know before you start installing gate posts.
The first thing is to pay attention to the material of the gate posts. Suitable material will be thick-walled rolled metal. For example, hot-rolled channel 14, 16 or a channel of smaller cross-section, pre-welded into a box. Metal gate posts can also serve profile pipes with a cross section of 100 x 100 mm and a wall of at least 5 mm. The thicker the pipe wall, the stronger the gate post.
Secondly, the design of metal gate posts must have lower crossbars at the base. IN ideal, the post before concreting should rest on the crosspiece of the corner 50, 63. And the other crosspiece should be recessed 100 - 200 mm from the surface of the ground. The length of the crossbars of the cross varies from 500 mm to 1 meter.
Third, it is mandatory to fill the base of metal gate posts with concrete. In this case, the gate post must be installed at a depth of at least one and a half meters, and somewhere more. It all depends on the composition and properties of the soil where the gate posts will be installed.
Fourth, do not neglect pouring into the gate post, liquid concrete mortar. This will make it possible to make a strong reinforced concrete pillar from a hollow pipe with external reinforcement, thereby achieving the most rigid pillar structure possible.
Fifth, it is more reliable if the foundation of the gate posts is part of the general foundation of the fence. And concreting when installing gate posts will be carried out simultaneously with the general pouring of the foundation.
Sixth, it is more expedient to provide additional fastening between the gate post and the fence in its upper part. If you are laying a fence made of brick, then the brick post inside which the gate post is hidden must be additionally tied with a thick metal strip to the fence itself. It often happens that a brick pillar tilts due to the load of the gate and breaks away from the fence masonry, forming a crack between them.>
Seventh, sometimes, in difficult clay soils, it is impossible to install gate posts in a strictly vertical position and securely fix them. In this case, you need to use additional upper and lower crossbars (lintels) between the gate posts. The lower lintel is made of metal similar to that used for gate posts, and is buried in the ground to a depth of 300 - 400 mm. In the future, a normal passage is arranged on top of the lower jumper. The upper crossbar is installed along the upper ends of the gate posts. Of course, the top lintel will not add beauty and neatness to the gate, but it is a necessary measure and a very effective one. The upper cross member must be made removable to ensure passage in case of a tall car or transportation large cargo through the gate.
How to install gate posts is a much more difficult task than it might seem at first glance.
If for a fence it is enough for the posts to simply stand and not fall, then the gate is a mechanism, for the coordinated operation of which it will be necessary to maintain a certain position of both of its leaves.
Therefore, installing poles is the most difficult and important task in their construction.
According to the rigidity to the pillars, all the gates can be divided into groups:
- Gates that are bolted electronic lock; gates with heavy doors; gates that can be damaged by passing trucks.
- Gates that are locked with a chain or barrier.
Products of the first type are usually placed where they need to be opened and closed frequently - for example, at the entrance to a large shopping center. Usually such a passage has a significant width - about five.
And in some cases - even more, so that two cars up to eight meters wide can easily pass each other. The sashes in this case can weigh from 500 kg to four tons.
Yes, and in a private house, many will want to have a gate that closes with an electronic lock - they can be opened and closed without leaving the car or just look from the window who has arrived and open the gate for him without leaving.
Before you install gate posts, you need to know that the most stringent requirements are imposed on them here. They must ensure reliable operation of the bolt mechanism and a stable position of both doors relative to each other.
Gates that are locked with a chain do not impose any special requirements on the rigidity of the posts.
The chain, although it does not provide sufficiently reliable protection against penetration, will still be an obstacle to the penetration of thieves.
Here it will be enough to ensure sufficient strength of the pillars themselves - after all, when using gates, it is still possible that they will be hit by a trailer.
It would also be a good idea to ensure that the pillars are maintainable. Barriers also do not impose any special requirements on the posts. An exception is electronic barriers with the beam being locked when lowered by a stop.
In this case, the same requirements are imposed on the pillars as for gates of the first type. In addition, they should be stronger - a barrier at the entrance is easier to miss in the dark than a closed gate. The disadvantage of chain-locked gates is that you have to open and close them manually.
Gate material
- Definitely the most the best material for poles today is a metal pipe - round or square. It does not have too much mass so that the pole can be erected by one or two people without the use of equipment. Pouring concrete inside the pipe or adding lime will create an electrochemical positive potential on the surface of the pipe and increase rust resistance several times; in addition, you can order products from galvanized pipes.
- The second option is reinforced concrete. This is not very good for heavy gates - constant bending, cyclic loads, the likelihood of an accidental dynamic impact from the side of a trailer or wheel will quickly render them unusable. Reinforced concrete posts are much more suitable for a fence. Brick pillars have the same drawback - except when there is metal pole, and the hinges are attached directly to it using remote anchors, through the thickness.
- Finally, the third option is wooden pillars. Wooden giants will be more exotic and are used quite rarely - due to their low resistance to rotting and low load-bearing capacity.
Installation of posts for gates that are locked with a bolt or a heavy gate
Installing gate posts to prevent them from moving can only be done by making a reliable foundation and ensuring their rigid connection with each other. Communication can be made at two points - at the bottom of the entrance, at the crossing through the gate and at the top of the pillars. Usually they are welded together at these two points, placing two I-beams between them.
But for the top fasteners there is a rather serious limitation - sometimes it may be necessary to pass vehicles that exceed the height of the dimensions of the pillars and the top beam. Therefore, the latter is made removable.
When installing an entrance to your own site, when you plan to drive only your own car, it is quite possible not to make a solid foundation for the gate, but to make separate ones for each post. In this case, they simply weld the pillars at the bottom with a thick I-beam, and on top they make the same beam, but removable, inserted into welded sockets and having welded pins for insertion.
This way, you can safely drive in and out of your car, and good stable operation will be ensured. electronic lock both the opening mechanism and the skewing of the pillars can be avoided.
However, this does not negate the laying of the foundation for each pillar separately, which should go below the freezing depth for such gates. A concrete pad is usually made at the entrance area. It will be very good if the I-beam, which is welded between the pillars below, is thicker than it. In a layer of concrete it will be reliably protected from rust, since concrete produces a slightly alkaline reaction and prevents metal oxidation.
For heavier gates it is necessary to make a solid foundation. Usually it is made in the form of the letter “H” with a transverse bar that is strongly elongated horizontally.
The foundation is usually poured solid. Its depth should be below the freezing depth. Everything is done according to the same rules as the construction strip foundation for home. The thickness of the foundation grillage is about 50 cm. Theoretically, 30 will be enough, but a width of 50 allows you to save on formwork and pour the foundation into a spacer with the walls of the trench.
Near the pillars, extensions-buttresses are made in both directions, perpendicular to the entrance. Usually, even for heavy gates, a buttress in the area of a post with a total length of one meter is sufficient. The foundation is reinforced before pouring.
An I-beam is welded between the pillars at the bottom of the entrance, near the surface. Then it is poured into concrete, along with reinforcement - concrete will be a reliable protection for it.
It is advisable to install an I-beam at the top of the pillars. Considering that, usually, heavy gates require large and heavy posts, the beam must match.
It will be difficult to remove and put it back in place - you will have to adjust it every time crane. Therefore, it is better to immediately put a significant height reserve in the pillars and simply tightly weld the beam to them, once and for all.
Posts for gates
Using the same technology, you can install posts for gates and gates - with the difference that here you can take thinner posts; it is enough to install round ones with a diameter of 50 mm or square ones with a width of 50 mm, the wall thickness is 3 mm.
It is undesirable to take a smaller wall thickness - to thin metal it will be difficult to weld the hinges, and this will affect the durability of the gate.
Considering that 2.5 meters is enough for a person to pass, the pillars can be connected without any danger to each other at a height of 2.5 meters by welding a crossbar.
The second bundle is at the bottom, where the entrance is. It is desirable to concrete it so that it does not rust. The standard width of the gate is 90-120 cm. You can freely enter such a passage in winter clothes, with a stroller, and even bring a wheelbarrow with earth.
How to concrete gate posts - on the video:
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You will need
- - pipe Ø100 mm;
- - corner 100x100 mm;
- - angle grinder ("Bulgarian");
- - welding machine;
- - cement;
- - sand;
- - edged board and timber for formwork;
- - carpentry tools;
- - shovel and bayonet shovels.
Instructions
Cut out the blanks for the gate. For racks, use a pipe Ø100 mm or a corner 100x100 mm. Their length is determined by the sum of the height of the gate and the length of the ends embedded in the ground (0.8-1 m). With a planned gate height of 2 m, the length of the blanks should be 2.8-3 m.
Make a jumper connecting the racks from a 100x100 mm corner. Its length should be equal to the width of the gate. For a standard gate, it is taken to be 3 m. If a pipe is used as posts, cut one flange of the corner on both sides at an angle of 30° and give its edge a concave shape. This is done so that the edges of the corner fit well to the posts when welding them.
Assemble the gate frame from the blanks on the ground, choosing a more level place for this. It should look like the letter “H” - two posts and a jumper placed between them at a distance of 2 m from their top (or 0.8-1 m from the bottom). In this case, two conditions must be ensured: parallelism of the racks with each other and perpendicularity of the jumper with respect to the racks.
Weld the jumper to the posts. Both corner flanges must be securely welded with a continuous seam. Weld any pieces of metal to the jumper in two or three places, pointing them down. They will act as reinforcement, firmly connecting the lintel to the foundation.
Dig a trench for pouring the foundation. Its width should be 350-400 mm, length - 3.5 meters (for a 3-meter gate). Required depth trenches are determined taking into account the depth of soil freezing, its type, level groundwater. For simplicity, you can take it equal to the depth of soil freezing in your area, which can be found on construction sites.
Make wooden boards from edged boards and assemble formwork from them. Its dimensions in plan should be 0.3x3.3 m. It is advisable to make the formwork walls slightly wider towards the bottom to avoid the buoyant effect of the soil on the foundation.
Install the gate into the formwork so that the lintel is flush with the ground and the posts are vertical. To do this, place supports made of stones or metal under the posts or lintel and secure the posts on both sides with stops. Place reinforcement made of any type of metal into the formwork - wire, scraps of metal profile, etc.
cook sand-cement mortar with a ratio of 1:4 (cement:sand) and pour it into the formwork. To use less mortar, fill the formwork with stones and broken bricks. While pouring, tamp down the solution with a shovel. The surface of the poured foundation should be level with the ground and the lintel. Before hanging the gate itself, give the solution time to harden - at least a week.
When the territory of a site is enclosed with a fence, the question always arises about the need to install a gate. They come in several types: swing, retractable, opening in one direction or lifting. You can install on your own only hinged or opening in one direction gates. The rest are installed on special structures with the participation of specialists in this field.
You will need
- -hinges
- -bolts or welding machine
- -pillars
- -smooth block
Instructions
In summer cottages and in private houses, swing doors are usually installed. gates. This design is the presence of two wings, welded from iron or made from tesa. In some cases, carved or forged gates.
To install the gate, dig in the posts, measuring the manufactured gates. Poles can be installed iron or wooden. Fill both with cement mortar for strength and reliability.
The hinges can be welded to the posts and gates m or fasten using bolts. Store-bought hinges are not suitable for installing gates. They are unreliable. Order powerful homemade hinges from any turning organization or purchase them at the market where they sell homemade parts. They should be on a ball mechanism, which will allow easy opening gates without making any effort.
The most difficult process is the installation and fixing of the gate. It is impossible to carry out this procedure alone, because the doors made from any material are quite heavy. They need to be hung at a distance from the ground that does not prevent them from opening.
Place a block of the desired size down the gate along the length of both wings. Install one sash on it and weld or screw the hinges. First it is done from above, then from below.
The second gate leaf must be installed in accordance with the first and welded or screwed on the hinges. And do the same. First, the hinge is screwed or welded at the top, then at the bottom.
If you installed a bar, then both wings should be at the same distance from the ground so that distortions do not occur when they are closed.
Video on the topic
The owners of their own plots try to install such gates so that they are both beautiful and comfortable, and would fit well into general design. Wooden structures are considered the most affordable and easiest to implement.
For those who want to make their own wooden gates First you need to draw up a design drawing. This helps to more accurately imagine the scope of work and purchase the necessary materials in advance. When drawing up a drawing, you must try to ensure that all the details and structural elements are in full accordance with each other.
How to install gate supports
From wooden beams you need to make vertical supports. Their size should be calculated as follows: add another meter to the height of the gate for deepening. The greater the depth to which the supports are installed, the more stable and durable the structure is. So during the operation of the gate, the likelihood of warping is reduced.
Remove debris from the place intended for the installation of support poles. Dig holes - their diameter should be 20 cm larger than that of the supports. Tamp the bottom of the hole and make a cushion of rubble. That part of the pillar that will be filled with concrete must be pre-treated with a composition that will protect the wood from rotting - for example, bitumen mastic. Use a plumb line to check the verticality of the post. The pit with the installed post must be filled with concrete and wait until it dries.
Gate manufacturing
To make one of the gate posts, you will need one block each for the top and bottom, two bars for the side posts, and two for the middle lintel. Dimensions for gates are calculated depending on the size of the machine. All parts must be treated with antiseptic impregnation.
The frame parts are laid out on a flat surface, and holes must be drilled at the joints. Dowels are inserted into them - they add rigidity to the places where the parts are connected. Jumpers made of timber are installed in the middle of the frame. At the corners, jibs are attached, which are bars with cuts at the ends at an angle of 45 degrees.
When calculating the height of the frame, it is necessary to take into account that the sheathing boards should protrude beyond it from below and above by 20 cm. The boards must be prepared before sheathing - cut to the dimensions specified by calculation and worked with a plane. They can be attached to the frame and tightly to each other, and with a certain step. After all the sheathing boards are in place, the top must be trimmed and sanded. Now the hinges are attached to the sashes - for this, self-tapping screws with screw threads are used. Self-tapping screws can also be used to secure fasteners to racks.
The distance from the bottom of the gate to the ground must be at least 5 cm. Closed gates are secured with bolts, latches or locks - the owner chooses the method. It is better to paint the gate when assembled.
Video on the topic
A fence is an important element of fencing. When constructing it, it is necessary to determine what supports it will have. Its reliability and longevity depend on this. Pillars can be wooden, metal or concrete. Once you have made your choice, get to work.
You will need
- - pillars;
- - cord;
- - pegs;
- - saw;
- - drill;
- - gravel;
- - bitumen;
- - wedges.
Instructions
Installation of poles for fence start by marking the fenced area. Do this with a cord. Correctly calculate the number of columns, crossbars and canvases.
Hammer the pegs where the posts will be installed. Check again that the intended line is correct. The pegs must be exactly at the marking step. A crooked fence will not be strong.
Mark the height of the post. She must be taller than herself fence by a few centimeters. Considering the underground part, saw off the excess.
Many owners of private lands pay Special attention their arrangement, independently inventing various useful gizmos.
One of these products is yard gates, which to some extent act as the face of any private plot.
For handmade Standard swing gates are best suited. But in order to make a really good structure that will last for many years, you should carefully prepare a reliable foundation.
For yard swing gates, this design element is decisive. The fact is that evenness and normal functioning of the valves depend on the strength of the foundation.
If, during the construction of the gate, an unreliable underground foundation is made, after some time in the process of use, the supports will first begin to sag and tilt, and then loosen.
As a result, deformation of the entire structure will occur.
To prevent this from happening, you need to pay special attention to preparation. monolithic foundation, which is made using special construction technology.
A good foundation for a home gate is carefully reinforced with crushed stone and cement mortar underground bases of pillars or the entire underground space in the area where the structure is located.
Today there are several types of such foundations:
- Fundamental strengthening of supports. First, measurements are taken and holes are dug in the places designated for the support pillars. Then racks in the form of metal pipes are installed level in them and the recesses are filled and strengthened with cement mortar. This is the simplest type of foundation.
For greater reliability, many craftsmen line pipes with facing bricks. In this case, in certain places, special holders are welded to the pipe for future fastening of the loops.
If necessary, the internal base of the brick pillar is strengthened with reinforcement from iron rods and filled with mortar.
- Solid trench type foundation. This type of underground gate base device is the most reliable. In this case, not only holes are dug for the load-bearing supports, but a solid trench is dug along the entire length of the gate. The oblong depression is strengthened from the inside reinforcement mesh, then in certain places, support pillars are installed in separate holes at a vertical level. As a result, the entire trench is filled with crushed stone and filled with cement mixture.
Each of these types of foundations is prepared based on the size and weight of the overall gate structure. If you are planning to make small swing gates up to 5 meters wide and up to 2 meters high, you can choose the first option and simply strengthen the support pillars.
If you want to make massive metal gate with a gate up to 10 meters wide, you are better off digging a trench and preparing a solid solid foundation.
We make the foundation ourselves
The durability of your swing gate will depend not only on the quality of the materials you use to build the product itself, but also on a properly prepared foundation.
Therefore, when building the foundation you will need detailed drawing. If you will strengthen the pillars, the standard scheme, which is presented below, will suit you.
For a more solid solid trench foundation, you can use the figure below for clarity.
Having decided on the structure of the fundamental foundation that is most suitable for you, you will need to prepare a certain set of materials and tools for work, it should include:
- building level and tape measure;
- shovel and hand drill (if necessary);
- concrete mixer or electric drill with a “mixer” attachment;
- crushed stone;
- three or two metal pipes the right size, with a diameter of at least 10 cm;
- sand;
- water;
- fittings;
- welding machine (if necessary);
- brick (if necessary);
- cement.
Now you can get to work. First you need to take measurements and dig holes for support pillars or dig a trench, it all depends on what type of foundation you want to use.
The depth of the pits should be at least 1 meter, and the diameter should be 10 cm larger than the cross-section of the pipes themselves. The same parameters apply to the trench; it should be 1 meter deep and 10 cm wide on both sides from the edges of the support pipes.
If you make a trench, you will still need to make recesses for the posts at the bottom.
Now it’s time to thoroughly compact the bottom of the recesses and fill them with sand so that the cushion is at least 5-10 cm. After this, install the pipes in the openings, measuring the vertical building level.
If you are simply strengthening the supports, fill the holes up to half the depth with crushed stone, and then start making the building mixture.
To do this, pour cement and sand into a container in a ratio of 1:3, add water in a proportion of at least 25% of the total mass. For greater strength, you can add a little crushed stone to the mixture.
Now use a concrete mixer or electric drill with a mixer attachment and mix the solution thoroughly. Let it sit for a few minutes.
After cement mixture ready, fill the remaining recesses at the bases of the pipes with it. The simplest foundation for strengthening the supports is almost ready; now all you have to do is wait a few days until it dries and, if necessary, cover the supports with facing bricks.
After this, you can install the gate.
If you are using a trench base for your swing gates, you will need to prepare the reinforcement before installing the posts. To do this, take the required number of metal rods of a certain size, weld them together using a welding machine to form an oblong, rectangular parallelepiped.
Now install the resulting frame in the trench and insert the pillars into the holes, filling them with building mixture.
Then fill the entire trench with cement mortar and wait a few days for it to dry. This foundation arrangement will serve you for a long time.
So, taking into account all these features, you can build an excellent foundation for swing gates.
The main thing is to take high-quality measurements, check the verticals of the supports with a building level and do not violate the sequence of actions.
How to strengthen your garage door and protect your premises
Strengthening garage doors
Strengthening the garage door is one of the components of the room equipment. After all, this is the protection of the premises, so we will consider this work to be the main one. We will tell you how to strengthen a garage door in this article.
Here everything can be done with your own hands and therefore the price of the work is not high. Here the quality of execution will come to the fore. There are a lot of photos on this topic, now we will summarize them and choose the most useful and necessary.
Strengthening the gate in the garage has to be done even if you purchase an expensive product from a well-known brand. And if your garage is equipped with regular swing gates. then know that the frame of such a design must be carefully strengthened, so you must understand this.
- To do this, you need to weld a metal belt to the gate, this is done from the inside, then the design turns out to be more reliable and practical, as it should be.
- You also need to pay attention to the stiffeners, because the metal should not "play".
Distribution of stiffeners in the gate
Attention: It is important to remember that the garage door must comply necessary requirements security. For example, on their outer side there should never be handles without protrusions, because it is often thefts of cars and other items that are committed in such garages, remember this.
- But in order not to encounter such a problem, and to eliminate the possibility of breaking the lock, during installation you need to prepare a special recess on the surface of the gate, after which you can install the lock.
- If you want to rent out your garage, then know that you must put a reliable and high-quality lock on the gate (see Garage locks with a secret: which one is better), because in any case, then you will find a tenant faster.
- I would like to note that first you need to remove the old gates from their hinges, laying them on flat surface, as for the fastening, everything old needs to be removed, this also applies to the hinges, then they need to be put in place, but in intact and working condition, of course.
- The gates need to be covered with sheets of metal, the sheets are usually secured using self-tapping screws, and the screws should be positioned in such a way that they can fit into the middle of the beams; if you notice that the sheets will protrude at the edges, then they need to be bent inward. After all, this is done, first of all, to get a more attractive appearance.
- In those places where the gates will be attached to the walls, it is necessary to install steel corners made of rolled steel, and in the places where the gates are attached, fittings must be installed, because this is an important condition.
- Now you can install gates, doing it efficiently and carefully, without having experience in this area, of course, it will not be possible to do this accurately and correctly.
Garage security: what you need to do
Of course, you want to be able to stay in your garage with special security, but you need to understand that any building has vulnerabilities that can be exploited by intruders, so your main task is to find out where these places are and make sure that no one I couldn't get into them.
Attention: When purchasing ready-made gates, be sure to look at the installation recommendations. There they pay attention to security issues. There are also recommendations there.
- If the garage is a permanent concrete structure, then you should know that additional cementation of the metal hooks is necessary.
- To properly strengthen the walls of the garage, it is customary to make a special metal carcass from the corners, they, in turn, must have the appropriate size, remember this.
- The frame needs to be welded with a metal mesh; of course, it is best to carry out such work during construction, but if changes will be made to an already finished structure, then it is best to construct the frame indoors, of course, if the space allows this.
Attention: Remember that you must carefully try to strengthen the garage gate, because it is through them that intruders often enter such premises, which means that you should pay special attention to this place.
- You can weld special metal bars onto garage hinges, and they, in turn, will seriously complicate sawing, so this condition is important. WITH reverse side the gate needs to be welded with bolts and nuts, while insuring additional loops, do not forget about it.
- In order for the sashes to be securely pressed against each other, it is necessary to arrange eccentric locks (see Locks on garage doors: varieties and features), making this a must. On one of the gate leaves, you will need to weld a wide metal strip, which, in turn, will not allow scrap or any other tool to be inserted between the leaves, so you definitely need to know about this important advice.
- The hinges intended for the padlock must be cut off and completely removed inside the gate surface, if, of course, there is such an opportunity, while not forgetting to leave a minimum opening that serves to hang the lock.
- To protect the garage from intruders, you can install a simple alarm that will work when the gate is opened.
Conclusion
Each owner wants to properly protect the property of his garage from theft, this also applies to the car. Therefore, it is imperative to strengthen the garage door by any means, now you know how this is done, in addition, it is imperative to think about the safety of the garage as a whole, today such problems are easily and effectively solved, so it all depends on you.
If you contact specialists, they will always help you choose one or another way to protect your garage. But now you know exactly how you can strengthen the gate from this room, the decision is yours. The instructions will help you in this matter.
Of course it needs to be strengthened. For some reason, there are more and more people wanting to profit “for free” from other people’s goods every day. It is very important to minimize their chances. Even the appearance of a strong and high-quality gate can scare away lovers of easy money. It’s better to forget about padlocks altogether (there are unique ones that have only them in garages) - they are cut off in 3 seconds. Well, it’s best to duplicate all security measures GSM alarm- fortunately they are already cheap.
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