Victoria garden, planting and care in autumn. How to best care for Victoria when growing it

How to care for Victoria in the spring, caring for strawberries. Everyone has a Victoria at their dacha; in the spring, when everything starts to grow, many people have questions caring for Victoria, what should you do? Victoria leaves live 50-60 days a year. The top layer of soil up to 3 cm can be removed, this way you will protect the plantings from pests that overwintered in the litter. In the spring, when the weather permits, you can begin to cleanse the Victoria from last year’s foliage and debris. You can cut off all the foliage, leaving only the growth point. The entire Victoria plantation can be sprinkled with wood ash, (read all about fertilizing with wood ash at the link). Caring for Victoria (strawberry) in spring includes fertilization and mulching. Sprinkling with ash, also sprinkling with sawdust or ordinary humus. But that's it spring care for Victoria (strawberry) does not end. At the beginning of May, Victoria needs to be fed with complex mineral fertilizer. Before the buds open, spray the bushes with the solution copper sulfate, this way you will prevent diseases of young foliage. When green leaves appear on Victoria bushes, then you need a solution of mullein with ammonium sulfate for each bush. If you trust only natural fertilizers, you can also wood ash, Fertilize with potassium (sodium) humate. Water the strawberries once a week with warm, settled water. You can water before flowering by sprinkling, but as soon as the flowers appear, you need to water under the bush, excluding getting on the leaves themselves.

Growing and caring for Victoria

Have you decided to plant this wonderful berry on your plot? To do this you need:

Choose a placePrepare the soilPurchase planting material

We choose a sunny place for planting this wonderful berry. Then we prepare the soil for planting. Victoria prefers fertile soil and for this we add humus, calculating two buckets per square meter, and as mineral fertilizers - ash at the rate of two liters per square meter. The berries are planted in spring, summer and autumn. The most good time planting is the month of April.

At this time, the seedlings are well accepted, suffer less, and in June they can already harvest. For planting, you need to take rosettes with a well-developed root system. Plant on a flat area, making small depressions and spilling them with water.

The distance between the rows is 50-60 centimeters, between the rosettes - 30. In order for the rosette to be well accepted, we dip its roots in a mixture of mullein and clay.

We make the mixture at the rate of 1 bucket of clay per 0.5 bucket of mullein, dilute with water to a creamy consistency. After planting, water generously. Then water as it dries.

Before flowering begins, watering can be done with a sprinkler, and then with a hose along the grooves. Victoria loves organic fertilizers and uses mullein for feeding. I dilute it 1:10. I feed the plants twice a season.

First time in early spring and then during the beginning of flowering. I feed it after watering on damp soil. After which I loosen the soil and then mulch with straw or small grass cut with a grass cutter. Thanks to mulching, moisture is retained longer, the soil does not become crusty, the berries remain clean and this protects the berries from damp rot and weeds. In order to get a larger and larger harvest of berries, during flowering and fruiting, we remove the whiskers. And if you want to propagate the berry, then after harvesting, leave 1-2 whiskers closer to the mother plant. Then caring for Victoria comes down to watering, not allowing the plants to dry out, weeding and removing dried leaves. For In order for the berry to overwinter well, it needs late autumn pour well. And before frost, cover with leaves, straw or other material.

Proper care of Victoria - a rich harvest

Correct caring for victoria will allow you to get a rich harvest, from planting and watering to harvesting. It's no secret that Victoria has many beneficial properties, not to mention its excellent taste.

A rich harvest is the result proper care behind Victoria. Garden strawberries, which are usually called “Victoria,” are a very tasty and aromatic berry. In fact, Victoria is just a variety of strawberry. Caring for strawberries and Victoria has some features and differences.

Victoria landing

Victoria needs to be planted on a flat area with a slight slope to the west. It is necessary that the planting area be well protected from the wind, which winter time, blowing snow from plants, can cause their death from frost. Victoria grows best on sandy loam soils containing a large number of humus. Victoria reproduces by mustaches that grow by mid-summer. From the nodes located on the tendrils, new shoots grow - rosettes of leaves and roots.

The first 2 - 3 rosettes from the main plant are considered the most suitable for propagation. The most suitable are the mustaches from two-year-old bushes. When 4-6 leaves form on the rosette, it should be cut off from the tendril and, together with a lump of earth, planted in the prepared hole on permanent place.Victoria is usually planted in spring or autumn, with preliminary preparation soil.

If spring planting is expected, then the soil should be prepared in the fall, if it is autumn, then the site is prepared in June. 6 kg of humus is added to the dug up soil per square meter and mineral fertilizers: potassium salt and ammonium nitrate 20 grams each, plus 25 grams of superphosphate. In order to make it convenient to care for the plants, they are planted in rows like ridges, up to 10 cm high. 20 - 30 cm should be left between the bushes, with a row spacing of 60 - 70 cm.

Victoria care and watering

Victoria is very picky about care and watering. If you regularly carry out work to conserve moisture by loosening the soil, mulching, snow retention, and removing weeds, you can do without watering.

But when watering it up to 10 times per season, it is possible to obtain more bountiful harvest After flowering has finished, the soil in the garden bed is mulched with wood shavings, straw or dry moss. This protects the berries from damp rot. In mid-autumn, you need to do a second mulching with peat or grain waste.

The mulch thickness should be 5 - 8 cm. After harvesting, the soil around the bushes should be loosened. When the roots are exposed, the plant must be earthed up.

Weeding also plays an important role in obtaining a good strawberry harvest. Good and timely caring for victoria will delight you with the resulting harvest of berries, which are indispensable in the treatment of kidney and liver diseases, diabetes mellitus. Victoria berries promote blood formation, increase productivity, strengthen the immune system. Read also about remontant varieties of Victoria, as we often call it, or simply strawberries.

Victoria - delicious victory with little secrets

Greetings, dear readers! One of the first varieties of well-known garden strawberries is the Victoria berry. Victoria fruits have an extraordinary aroma and look beautiful and appetizing on a plate.

Victoria is a berry that has many valuable properties and contains nutrients. It contains vitamin C. The name Victoria is very suitable for this berry. To feel Victoria - victory - you need to see a well-groomed bed of beautiful berries.

And for this you need to properly care for the plant. Let's talk about that in the garden plot. Victoria reproduces with a mustache. They usually appear by mid-summer. For further cultivation plants use rosettes located next to the mother bush.

Whiskers from two-year-old plants work best. You need to plant a rosette with four leaves on the ridge, separating it from common plant Victoria bushes are planted in spring or autumn. But at the same time, the area for planting is prepared in advance.

For spring planting The beds are prepared in the fall, and for the fall - in June, not forgetting to fertilize the soil. It is advisable to plant Victoria on level ground with a slope in a westerly direction.

In winter, snow should accumulate on the site so that the Victoria bushes do not die. In this regard, the bed must be positioned so that it is not strongly blown by the wind. In order to plant bushes, it is necessary to make holes in the prepared bed into which the mustaches, dug out along with a lump of soil, are placed.

This must be done immediately, without leaving the rosette for the next days. The Victoria berry is susceptible to infection with gray rot. To prevent this disease, the soil on the ridge is mulched with wood shavings or straws, 10 cm thick. The leaves of the plant are not covered.

When the harvest is harvested, the soil around the berry bushes must be loosened. When the roots are exposed, the berries are hilled up; regular weeding of Victoria is the key to obtaining a good harvest. Before flowering, in order to prevent gray rot disease, it is necessary to spray with an iodine solution. Special requirements are imposed on watering the bushes.

Moderate watering of the plant will allow you to preserve a large amount of vitamin products. Without additional moisture, Victoria will grow if it is covered with snow in winter, high-quality weeding is carried out, and the soil is loosened in a timely manner. For today, this is all about the area. Do not miss the opportunity to enjoy Victoria berries.

Its taste is gone, but its benefits are immeasurable. When consuming, carefully rinse the fruit under running water. running water. Can be used garden strawberries For fasting days due to its low calorie content.

Drinking a decoction of berries and leaves will help you lose extra pounds. Any gardener will sooner or later want to plant strawberries on his plot. But how to care for Victoria in order to get good harvest?

This question worries many gardeners who planted this berry crop on their plot for the first time. Is this plant difficult to care for? At first glance it may seem so.

However, if you consider some basic recommendations for caring for Victoria, it turns out that this task is not so difficult. Of course, it may be difficult at first, but with a little practice, you will become a guru in growing strawberries. And in this article you will receive comprehensive answers to important questions about the agricultural technology of this berry crop.

How to plant Victoria

So, let's consider the first question - how to plant Victoria? The answer to this is important, since it is the planting of strawberries that affects the quality of the future harvest. To understand how to plant strawberries, you must first briefly consider the structure of its bushes.

Take a look at the photo attached just below. As you can see, there is a main, uterine bush. Thanks to him, the propagation of berry crops is possible. Whiskers extend from the main strawberry bush.

Rosettes appear on these shoots - future fruit-bearing bushes. Over time, this rosette will also turn into a uterine bush. Important! For propagation, choose those shoots that have no more than three rosettes.

This will ensure stable growth of each bush, which will also affect the quality of the fruit. As soon as the rosette begins to form, immediately carefully stick its roots into the soil. This way you will provide the plant with constant nutrition of important vital elements.

After some time, when the bushes have formed, they can be planted. It is worth noting that each mother bush can produce up to 15 good sockets. This means that you don’t have to constantly buy seedlings, and you will always have your own. Memo.

Victoria should be planted in mid-summer (July). Many gardeners advise choosing the evening time of day for this: in this case, the plant will undergo night acclimatization. What bushes can be planted in the ground? Will all sockets fit?

No, you only need to plant those seedlings that have formed a root system, have several leaves and a developed heart. Therefore, if you are buying sockets, then pay attention to all these factors, so as not to be upset later because your plant is not accepted.

In the same case, when you have your own uterine bush, then before you carefully tear off the rosette from the mustache, make sure that it matches this description. Before planting the plant, carefully straighten its roots. The location chosen for planting Victoria is also important.

The berry crop develops well on sandy, slightly acidic and loamy soil. Don't forget to saturate the soil with humus and important nutrients.

You cannot plant the plant in clay soil (it will die) and sandy soil is not recommended (the harvest will be small). Reminder! Do not plant strawberries in beds adjacent to peppers, tomatoes and potatoes.

Also, you should not plant seedlings near trees: their root system will interfere with the development of Victoria. But the proximity to corn and sunflowers will be very useful - they will protect the berry crop from the winds. The plant does not like high humidity, low temperatures and cold winds.

Such weather conditions adversely affect the productivity of the variety: the harvest will be small, and the fruits themselves will become small and diseased. But warm and sunny places will ensure that Victoria will bear fruit abundantly with large and beautiful berries.

How to water Victoria

Strawberries are considered a moisture-loving plant. Therefore, are there any special recommendations on how to water Victoria? It turned out that yes. In the first month after planting, the plant needs to be watered in the holes. After 30 days, the bushes are irrigated by filling the beds with water.

It turns out that it is from this period that Victoria begins to receive moisture abundantly. In this case, many gardeners do not reinvent the wheel, but simply bring the end of the hose to the garden bed and fill it to the top. Yes, you shouldn't be greedy with water.

For such generosity, Victoria will give you her large, pleasant-tasting fruits. But you can find out what to do with this bountiful harvest here.

How often to water Victoria

It is clear that strawberries need plenty of watering. But still, how often to water Victoria so as not to harm the plant? In spring, strawberries begin to grow rapidly.

If you do not give it the necessary moisture during this period, then you should not be surprised that the berries are small and dry when ripe. Watering continues almost until mid-autumn. In the spring and autumn seasons, strawberry bushes should be irrigated once a week.

This should be done in the morning and preferably warm water. In the summer season, Victoria needs to be watered at least twice a week, and if the days are hot, then it can be done every other day. At the same time, we must not forget to fertilize the plants with liquid subcortex.

How to care for Victoria in spring

The spring season is the most labor-intensive. It is at this time that strawberries need special care. Therefore, how to care for Victoria in the spring? You have just finished eating frozen strawberries when spring comes to your yard, and with it it’s time for you to go out to your plot.

Where to begin? First, carefully inspect your beds. Remove all frozen plants without regret: there is no place for them to take up space in the beds.

Dead leaves must be removed from living bushes. After carefully examining the bushes and removing the dead ones, proceed to the next step: remove upper layer the land with which you mulched Victoria last year. Why is this being done?

Firstly, various pests live in this layer and have taken refuge here from the cold, and secondly, the root system will begin to receive additional heat from the rays of the sun. When you have completed all these procedures, it is advisable to feed the strawberries with nitrogen fertilizer. As soon as your bushes are pleased with new leaves, then immediately “feed” your plants with a solution of mullein with the addition of ammonium sulfate. And when May comes, Victoria should receive a portion of complex mineral fertilizer.

How to grow a large Victoria

So, all the main work has been completed. The gardener is waiting for his fruits. But how to grow a large Victoria, because every gardener wants to get a special trophy? In fact, a lot depends on the gardener himself, or rather on whether he will help the Victoria in its fruiting. What is it about?

Again about fertilizer. And it doesn’t matter what you are doing - trying to grow cherries from seeds or wanting to get a large Victoria fruit - correct and timely fertilization will play a key role in these matters. Make it a rule to fertilize plants not only in the spring (as discussed above), but and before flowering and ripening.

In the first case, it is advisable to feed the strawberries bird droppings. The solution is prepared as follows: one bucket of litter is filled with three buckets of water. The liquid should stand for three to five days.

The resulting solution is diluted 1 to 20 and the grooves between the beds are watered with it. And before ripening, Victoria should be fertilized twice: boric acid and zinc sulfate. Thanks to all these actions, you can expect a bountiful and large-fruited harvest.

Growing wild strawberries, strawberries, Victoria Among berry crops, wild strawberries (strawberries) are most widespread.

It is characterized by precociousness and high ability for vegetative propagation. Its berries contain from 5.5 to 9.2% sugar, 0.56-1.37% acids, vitamin C (on average from 50 to 70 mg).

Reactive compounds (catechins, anthocyanins, flavones and others), trace elements (manganese, cobalt, iodine) and other valuable substances. Strawberries can grow in different soil and climatic conditions.

This is perennial herbaceous plant, in which the leaves gradually die and are renewed. The above-ground system has three types of shoots. The first type is shortened shoots (horns).

They have an apical bud, a rosette of three to five leaves with lateral axillary buds and adventitious roots. New horns develop from the buds of the lower part of the horn. The second type of shoots is mustaches. They are formed from the vegetative buds of the horn.

Rosettes are formed on them, daughter plants that are used for vegetative propagation strawberries The third type of shoots is peduncles. They develop from the apical buds of the upper part of the horn.

The strawberry bush does not have a central stem or apical growth. New growths are formed from lateral, axillary buds located below the apical ones, in the lateral part of the stem. Two new stems may arise from the axillary buds on the side, less often - three.

The resulting stems - horns, in turn, also branch, form a set of shortened stems and make up the “crown” of the strawberry bush. The number of horns reaches 30 or more and depends on the age of the bush, variety, agricultural conditions and other reasons.

Horns appear in limited quantities in the spring, but their mass formation occurs in the second half of summer, i.e., at the end of the harvest. Cord-like stems, or tendrils, are formed early in the spring and long time are in their infancy.

Whiskers appear already in the first year of a plant’s life and deplete it if they are not removed in a timely manner. The string-like tendril-like stems first grow upward and then bend towards the ground. When the tendril bends towards the ground and comes into contact with it, roots and leaf buds appear at the nodes.

The roots remain in the air for some time until, together with the stem node, they touch the ground. At favorable conditions developed roots and a small number of leaves form a rosette.

In strawberries, each new stem is formed from a lateral dormant bud at the base of the previous year's growth. Since with the age of the bush, lateral branches (horns) appear higher and higher in relation to the soil surface, the young roots move away from the ground and are on the soil, as if in the air.

In order for young roots to grow and develop, strawberry bushes need to be hilled. The root system of strawberries is concentrated mainly in surface layer soil - up to 25-30 cm. Under favorable conditions, new-planted strawberries have roots reaching 70-80 cm in depth.

Some varieties (Rannyaya Makheraukha, Leningradskaya Rannyaya) are characterized by a more superficial placement of roots. The maximum depth of their placement does not exceed 60-70 cm. In all cultivation areas, strawberries suffer from severe frosts if there is no snow cover.

In snowless winters, strawberry bushes die at a temperature of minus 15-18°C, but a slight snow cover is enough for the frost resistance of strawberries to sharply increase. Winter hardiness in strawberries is reduced as a result of leaves being infected with strawberry mites or being damaged by white spot.

The winter hardiness of plants also decreases sharply in a dry year, especially if the drought continues after harvest. The effect of drought is that after picking berries, plants form a small amount of new leaves, while old leaves, damaged by pests and diseases, sharply reduce photosynthetic activity.

The frost resistance of plants also decreases if the root system is not provided with sufficient air access. If the autumn is dry, the plants lack nutrition, they are weakened by weeds, pests and diseases, depleted by the formation of a large number of runners, and the next year the berry yield decreases sharply.

It is advisable to limit the cultivation of strawberries in one place to four years, that is, to obtain a harvest within two to three years. Planting strawberries and Victoria is carried out with healthy planting material.

In the Central Non-Chernozem Zone top scores gives spring planting (third ten days of April - first ten days of May inclusive). You can use planting material obtained from the uterine plots of fruit nurseries, as well as material stored in the refrigerator or in cold rooms during the winter.

Early summer planting(July-August) using well-formed seedlings can also give a high yield the next year. Autumn planting of strawberries must be completed before September 10, because at later dates the plants do not take root and do not overwinter well.

Strawberries are planted according to a single-row pattern with row spacing of 80 or 90 cm and distances between plants in a row from 15 to 20 cm. With a sufficient amount of planting material and the use of varieties with a compact above-ground part (Krasavitsa Zagorya, Early Maheraukha, etc.), thickened plantings can be carried out according to two-line pattern, the distance between lines is from 15 to 20 cm.

Such plantings give a berry yield higher by 25-27% compared to a one-line scheme. Before planting, the roots of strawberry seedlings are dipped in soil mash. Plants should not be planted too deep and not too shallow, so that the “heart” of the seedlings is on the surface of the soil.

Before planting, the area can be pre-mulched with light-proof materials. This technique helps to effectively suppress weeds, increase soil moisture and create conditions for good plant development.

This leads to an increase in strawberry yields by more than 30%, the ripening of berries is accelerated by several days, and the degree of damage to them by gray rot is reduced. Polymer film or thermohydrophobic paper is used as mulching materials.

The edges and ends of the mulching materials are sprinkled with soil and the seedlings are planted in the prepared holes in the mulch. Strawberry varieties recommended for cultivation differ high yield, winter hardiness and resistance to pests and diseases.

Caring for plantings of strawberries, Victoria In the spring, it is necessary to remove dry leaves from a plot of fruiting strawberries with a rake and, after the first loosening of the soil, treat the seedlings against diseases and pests. In table

12 some are listed chemicals, used for these purposes. When preparing the soil for planting strawberries, it is advisable to apply 80 to 100 kg of organic fertilizers (rotted manure, compost), 450 g of simple superphosphate and 180 g of potassium chloride to a 10 m2 plot.

In this case, one third of the fertilizer should be incorporated into the soil to a depth of 20-25 cm, and two thirds - to a depth of 10-12 cm. It is not recommended to apply nitrogen fertilizers to strawberries in the first year due to the risk of gray rot affecting the berries.

In addition, nitrogen fertilizers cause vigorous leaf growth. Therefore, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are used during this period. In early spring, they are applied evenly throughout the entire area and covered with a hoe.

In the spring, strawberries of the second year are fed with ammonium nitrate (100 g per 1 m2). This fertilizing can be omitted if a sufficient amount of organic fertilizer is applied before planting.

For third-year strawberries, add 100 g of superphosphate, 100 g of potassium chloride and 150 g of ammonium nitrate per 10 m2. Typically, half of nitrogen fertilizers are applied in the spring, the rest after harvesting.

Starting from the second year after planting, strawberries should be fed in early spring and after harvesting with a combined liquid fertilizer (1 part mullein to 5 parts water with the addition of 60 g of simple superphosphate and 100-150 g of wood ash per 1 bucket of solution). They feed as follows: make grooves 4-5 cm deep on both sides of the strawberry rows and add a solution of fertilizer into them at the rate of 1 bucket per 3-4 m. After applying the fertilizer, the grooves are covered with earth and watered with water.

A special combined mixture for fruit and berry crops is applied at the rate of 400-500 g per 10 m2, evenly distributed over the area. Additional measures combating diseases and pests at the beginning of the growing season - cleaning of dry and diseased leaves, at the beginning of flowering - laying out straw in the rows, putting rotten berries in a separate container during harvest and destroying them outside the plantation, applying full mineral fertilizing and watering.

Chemicals used to control diseases and pests. In most regions of the Central Non-Black Earth Region, after harvesting the berries, the leaves are immediately mowed down. This is necessary to reduce the incidence of plant diseases and pests.

The cutting height should be at least 1-2 cm above the level of the horns; leaves are collected and destroyed off-site. In the second half of summer, the tendrils from the rows are moved into rows with a rake, this helps to thicken and expand the rows of young strawberries with the formation of a strip of plants up to 40 cm wide.

In a plot of fruiting strawberries, the mustaches must be removed as they appear up to three times in the summer-autumn period, since the destruction of the mustaches promotes better formation of fruit buds and development mother plants. When using film shelters (tunnels), the harvest of one-year and two-year-old strawberries ripens 10-12 days earlier and is 70-80% larger than usual.

The simplest types of shelters are tunnels. To equip the tunnel, a wire frame is made over the rows of strawberries. To do this, a wire 4-6 mm thick and 2-2.5 m long is bent into arcs and installed over the rows of strawberries at a distance of about 1 m from one another.

Twine is pulled along the top of the arcs so that the film does not sag. Then the frame is covered with rolled film. It is reinforced from above with the same arches. For more reliable protection plants from adverse weather conditions, the tunnel can be covered with two layers of film.

This is done when the air temperature is minus 5°C. It is advisable to keep the plants under film until the first harvest. However, in case of severe drought, it is necessary to leave the film for the entire harvest period.

During flowering, the film cover must be opened so that the plants are pollinated by bees. In tunnels, plant care is made easier if you use perforated (perforated) film (up to 40 holes per 1 linear meter, 26 mm in diameter).

This film does not need to be removed during flowering, since the bees have access to flowering plants using holes. Cultivation of remontant varieties (Sakhalinskaya, Inexhaustible, Ada, Druzhba, Arpagoy, etc.) allows for continuous or repeated fruiting in the season.

In the conditions of the Moscow region, for example, the first harvest of berries of these varieties is harvested at the same time as conventional varieties, and the second - from the end of July until the autumn frosts. To obtain a strawberry harvest in the fall, semi-remontant varieties are also used (Talisman, Redgauntlet, Zenga Zengana, Surprise Gallya, Krasavitsa Zagorya, etc.), in which differentiation of fruit buds can take place in the spring-summer period during flowering.

The second harvest will be better if bud differentiation takes place under short day conditions of 10-12 hours for 20 days (plants are covered with light-proof materials) and the air temperature does not exceed 14-16°C. To stimulate re-blooming, you can mow the leaves after the first fruiting.

Film greenhouses allow you to get not one, but two crops per season from the same plants. In the first year, the greenhouse can be used to grow seedlings and then leave the seedlings in a permanent place, so there is no need to dig, store and plant them.

Semi-remontant strawberry varieties (Talisman, Redgauntlet, Zenga Zengana and others) are planted in greenhouses, which, under appropriate conditions, produce a second harvest in 2-2.5 months. after the first, In other crop rotations, plants stored in the refrigerator are used.

They are planted 5-10 days after covering the greenhouse with film when the soil warms up to 7-10°C. The best plants strawberries for forcing in greenhouses are those that have a well-developed bush, with three to five horns, with flower buds that have undergone differentiation (at a 10-12-hour day and a temperature not higher than 12 ° C).

In addition, plants must undergo a dormant period at temperatures from 0 to +5 ° C for 30 days or more. Plants are planted in multi-line ribbons on ridges 90 cm wide; for a single forcing they can be placed from 22 to 28 pcs/m2.

If plants are used during two growing seasons, the planting pattern should be two- or three-row with a placement density of 9 to 17 pcs/m2. Due to the growth of bushes in three-line tapes, plantings can be thinned out by removing the middle line after harvesting the first harvest.

This creates Better conditions for the remaining plants and it becomes possible to grow seal crops. In combined plantings of strawberries and tomatoes, when growing the first crop, the tomato plants are removed after fruiting for two seasons.

During the growing season, plants are regularly watered with water heated to 35-40°C, maintaining optimal humidity soil 80% of the total field moisture capacity (FMC) during the period of the beginning of forcing and leaf growth, 70% of the FMC - during the period of bud protrusion, 60% of the FMC - during the period of flowering and fruit formation). On poor soils, plants are fed weekly with complex soluble fertilizers containing nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium (in the ratio 10:5:20:6); they are added in a concentration of 50 g/l, consuming 10 liters of solution per 1 m2.

To prevent the formation of underdeveloped berries, it is necessary to create normal conditions for pollination of flowers, avoiding supercooling of the air or its strong heating, up to 35-40 ° C. Greenhouses need to be ventilated regularly. Artificial pollination is carried out mechanically or with the involvement of bees.

How and when is Victoria transplanted? Kseniya
Caring for Victoria in the fall: tips for gardeners Natalya Karpova
Victoria-berry. How to get a good harvest Pavel Bogachenkov
How to care for Victoria so that you can collect it not in cups, but in buckets? Sharing the secrets of Daria Zvereva
Do you know how to process Victoria in the fall? Natalya Salaeva
How to treat Victoria in the fall: tips and tricks Kseniya
How to provide proper care for Victoria Elena Markova
Do you know when to replant strawberries in the fall? Natalya Salaeva
Is it possible to replant strawberries in October and what care does it need? Oksana Kolchina
Planting strawberries under black covering material: technology, photos, reviews Elena Litvinenko
Victoria (strawberry) as a common noun for garden berries Annam
Strawberry First-grader: variety description, planting and care Victoria Litvinova
What kind of green manure for strawberries will provide best harvest? Elena Markova
Strawberries: planting and care open ground and in the greenhouse Lazko Natalya
Zemklunika: varieties, features of planting and care Marina Adulyan

We grow three kilograms of Victoria per bush

Irina Lebedeva, an accountant by profession and a gardener by vocation, has been growing Victoria for 40 years. But even with such experience, it is recognized that the results are different and depend on weather conditions, seedlings or seeds. That is why he does not like to experiment and plants exclusively early varieties. She inherited a plot of 12 acres in the village of Krasnoye from her parents. There she and her husband Sergei Vladimirovich spend every summer. During this time, up to 3 kg of berries are collected from one bush. At the same time, the berries are large in size - about the size of a child’s fist.

“Victoria, or, scientifically speaking, large-fruited garden strawberries, is one of my favorite berries,” says Irina Alexandrovna. — Despite the fact that there is not so much space on the site, I allocated 3 beds for her, so that there would be enough not only to eat freshly, but also to make preparations for the winter.

When and where to plant

Irina Lebedeva:

— I usually plant in early May. I believe that the earlier it is planted, the better it develops. I plant it in the evening so that the strawberries can acclimatize overnight.

Expert Vyacheslav Dolgovykh:

— It’s better to prepare the beds in the fall, and immediately begin planting in the spring. Strawberries love sunshine open place. It is advisable to direct the garden bed from south to north. It is in this arrangement that she makes the most of solar energy. Try not to plant it under an apple or cherry tree. Soil moisture is another important factor. If groundwater close, then the bed needs to be raised to 30-35 cm to prevent root rotting. In dry places, the beds are low - 8-10 cm.

Plant seedlings grown using Frigo technology better in spring(read more about it on our website). Grown by tendrils or seeds, if the plant's roots are strong, it can be planted now so that the plant is ready for the drop in temperature in September.

Now planted plants need to be fed with microelements for berry crops, for example, “Gumi-omi”. You can treat the beds with special chemicals to prevent diseases and pests, for example “Fufanon”, “Ordan”, “Abiga-Pik”.

How to plant

Irina Lebedeva:

— I make the distance between the rows 60 cm, and between the plants in the row — 20 cm. I make the depth of the hole along the entire length of the root. I dip the root of the plant in a solution of mullein or humus with soil. I add 1 tbsp to the hole. l. "Agrovit-Kora" or a pinch of "Kemira-Universal". I plant it so that the growing point is at soil level. Shallow or, conversely, deep planting leads to the death of plants or to their poor development. After planting, I water it with water - 250 ml per plant as the soil dries.

Expert Vyacheslav Dolgovykh:

— First of all, we note that the deposit big harvest- high-quality, healthy planting material. In our case, this means a developed root system of at least 15 cm and a small rosette of leaves. The distance between plants should be a little larger than Irina does: between rows - 70 cm, and between plants in a row - 30 cm. When it is planted less often, it gets sick less often, giving more harvest, and the distance promotes ventilation and good lighting.

In the garden bed, they first get rid of the weeds, then level them and make holes depending on the size of the root, that is, along its entire length. Then compost (a couple of scoops), ash (half matchbox per hole) and some earth. This whole mass is mixed, watered and only then the strawberries are planted. Then they are covered with soil and watered again.

Before landing on summer cottage, it is necessary to draw up a plan and observe crop rotation. That is, alternate certain crops in the beds. Strawberries can be planted after any predecessors, except nightshades (potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, petunia, tobacco). But you can’t plant it next to raspberries, because they have the same pests. Before the formation of flower stalks, you need to water with a watering can, and after they appear, with a ladle under the root.

The maximum yield of strawberries is the first two years, and then the yield declines, and the risk of pests increases. You can plant strawberries in the same bed where they grew after 2 seasons. Before that, you can plant garlic or mustard, which will improve the health of the soil. You can also grow strawberries where legumes were planted the previous season.

How to prepare for winter?

Irina Lebedeva:

— In the fall, when the temperature reaches 2-5 C, I cover the bed with “Agrotex” (covering material). And in the spring, when the snow melts, I take it off.

Expert Vyacheslav Dolgovykh:

— Each summer resident has his own way of mulching (coating the soil with a protective layer) of strawberries — mowed lawn grass, sawdust from deciduous trees, hay. But one of the tools that will save the gardener from unnecessary trouble is Kostravit-M1 mulch. It protects the soil from overheating, retains moisture longer, protects from pests and suppresses the growth of weeds. Mulch will also save strawberries from freezing in winter. The recommended thickness of the mulch layer is 1.5-2 cm in spring, and 3 cm before winter.

Which varieties to choose?

This year Irina Alexandrovna did not have many berries, but they were all very large, about 8 cm in length. The owner believes that this is the merit of the variety, which has not let her down for the 2nd season. Despite the dimensions, the taste does not become worse. The main varieties that Irina Alexandrovna uses are “Gigantella” and “Festivalnaya”.

Expert Vyacheslav Dolgovykh:

All varieties are divided into 4 groups: early, medium, late ripening and remontant. It all depends on the preference of the summer resident, what kind of strawberries he wants to see on his plot.

Early varieties ripen at the end of June - these are “Kimberly”, “Corona”, “Olvia”. The berries are sweet, large, bright red, winter-hardy.

The middle ones ripen in early July - “Rusich”, “Black Swong”, “Vima-Zanta”, “Zenga-Zengana”. Berries from 20 g, sweet and sour taste, average winter hardiness.

Late - in mid-July - “Vima Tarda”, “Vikoda”, “Charlotte”. The berries are medium size, sweet and sour taste, good winter hardiness.

Remontant garden strawberry. She gives berries a little at a time, but all summer long. Also, their peculiarity is that the berries are larger and sweeter than those of ordinary varieties. Blooms from May to October: “Vima-Rina”, “Geneva”, “Moscow delicacy”, “Brighton”, “Queen Elizabeth II”.

How to reproduce?

Irina Aleksandrovna propagates strawberries with mustaches. Just now I transplanted it to the bed where the onions grew.

Expert Vyacheslav Dolgovykh:

— This method has many disadvantages, although it is easy to use. After 3 generations, the berry begins to lose its properties. They become smaller, the taste deteriorates, productivity declines, and susceptibility to disease increases. The next disadvantage is the transfer of diseases from bed to bed. The strawberries on which gardeners leave tendrils spend their energy not on laying fruit buds, but on feeding their young shoots.

To avoid these problems, it is necessary to update the planting material, that is, take seedlings of the first reproduction. They give maximum yield. Seedlings of this class can be found today. Sellers must have varietal certificates confirming this.

There is one more modern way — new technology frigo (translated as “cold”). Throughout the summer, farmers grow strawberries in open ground in their nurseries. During this time, she is not allowed to give away the harvest, and her mustache is removed. Then the strawberries are dug up, the leaves are cut off, and the seedlings are stored in the refrigerator. And in this state it is stored until the moment when it needs to be planted. To us, in Udmurtia, frozen roots are brought from a Dutch nursery in the spring. After planting it, within two months, gardeners receive guaranteed harvest. You can make an application for the purchase of seedlings of 1 reproduction using Frigo technology by calling the Agricultural Academy 55-02-07 (average price - 25-35 rubles per seedling).

How to care?

Twice a season, Irina Aleksandrovna makes liquid fertilizer for strawberries. The first time is in May, before flowering, and the second time is in early July, after harvesting.

Irina Lebedeva:

- For liquid fertilizers For strawberries, I use fresh chicken manure. I water the beds well a few hours before fertilizing. Then, in 10 liters of water, I carefully stir a portion of fresh chicken manure at a rate of 1:10 and water it evenly from a watering can. After harvesting, I remove all the weeds, loosen the soil around all the bushes and cover them with a small layer of cow manure to fertilize the soil. I don't use any chemicals.

Expert Vyacheslav Dolgovykh:

— Experts advise feeding strawberries in the spring with nitrogen fertilizers in accordance with the instructions on the package (for example, AFK 16-16-16, 10 grams per square meter). But don't overdo it. They also recommend regularly adding a complex of microelements for berry crops, for example “Gumi-omi”. After harvesting, the harvest can be treated with special chemicals to prevent diseases and pests, for example “Fufanon”, “Ordan”, “Abiga Peak”.

How to get rid of pests

Irina Aleksandrovna is sure that pests do not touch Victoria, because every three years she transplants it to a new place.

Expert Vyacheslav Dolgovykh:

The main pests of strawberries are the larvae of the cockchafer (chafer). When digging the beds, you need to remove the larvae manually. Another method of control is to cover the beds during the flight of beetles in May with covering material, film or roofing felt.

Another enemy of strawberries is nematodes - small worms. It is very difficult to fight them. The main way– compliance with crop rotation. Eliminate the bed after 3-4 years of fruiting and burn the remains of the plants. You can get rid of them folk remedy- pour the marigold decoction or plant marigolds in the future garden bed for several months. Before planting, when preparing the bed, you can plant it, for example, with mustard, it heals the soil. In a month, you can dig everything up and plant strawberry seedlings.

Victoria care and cultivation

Loading…

How to care for Victoria in the spring, caring for strawberries. Everyone has a Victoria at their dacha; in the spring, when everything starts to grow, many people have questions Victoria care, What do we have to do? Victoria leaves live 50-60 days a year. The top layer of soil up to 3 cm can be removed, this way you will protect the plantings from pests that overwintered in the litter. In the spring, when the weather permits, you can begin to clean the Victoria from last year's foliage and debris. You can cut off all the foliage, leaving only the growing point. The entire Victoria plantation can be sprinkled with wood ash, (read all about fertilizing with wood ash at the link). Caring for Victoria (strawberry) in spring includes fertilization and mulching. Sprinkling with ash, also sprinkling with sawdust or ordinary humus. But that's it Spring care for Victoria (strawberries) doesn't end. At the beginning of May, Victoria needs to be fed with complex mineral fertilizer. Before the buds open, spray the bushes with a solution of copper sulfate, this way you will prevent diseases of the young foliage. When green leaves appear on the Victoria bushes, you need a solution of mullein with ammonium sulfate for each bush. If you trust only natural fertilizers, in addition to wood ash, Fertilize with potassium (sodium) humate. Water the strawberries once a week with warm, settled water. You can water before flowering by sprinkling, but as soon as the flowers appear, you need to water under the bush, excluding getting on the leaves themselves.

Growing and caring for Victoria

Have you decided to plant this wonderful berry on your plot? To do this you need:

Select a location Prepare the soil Purchase planting material

We choose a sunny place for planting this wonderful berry. Then we prepare the soil for planting. Victoria prefers fertile soil and for this we add humus at the rate of two buckets per square meter, and as mineral fertilizers we add ash at the rate of two liters per square meter. Berries are planted in spring, summer and autumn. The best time to plant is April.

At this time, the seedlings are well received, suffer less, and in June they can already harvest. For planting, you need to take rosettes with a well-developed root system. Plant on a flat area, making small depressions and spilling them with water.

The distance between the rows is 50-60 centimeters, between the rosettes - 30. In order for the rosette to be well accepted, we dip its roots in a mixture of mullein and clay.

We make the mixture at the rate of 1 bucket of clay per 0.5 bucket of mullein, diluted with water to a creamy consistency. After planting, water thoroughly. Then water as it dries.

First time in early spring and then during the beginning of flowering. I feed it after watering on damp soil. After which I loosen the soil and then mulch with straw or small grass cut with a grass cutter. Thanks to mulching, moisture is retained longer, the soil does not become crusty, the berries remain clean, and this protects the berries from damp rot and weeds. In order to get a larger and larger harvest of berries, we remove the whiskers during flowering and fruiting. And if you want to propagate the berry, then after harvesting, leave 1-2 tendrils closer to the mother plant. Next, caring for Victoria comes down to watering, not allowing the plants to dry out, weeding and removing dried leaves. In order for the berry to overwinter well, it needs to be watered well in late autumn. And before frost, cover with leaves, straw or other material.

I, Galina Nikolaevna Sukhova, have vast experience in farming, which I generously share on the pages of my website

Proper care of Victoria - a rich harvest

Correct Caring for Victoria will allow you to get a rich harvest, from planting and watering to harvesting. It is no secret that Victoria has many beneficial properties, not to mention its excellent taste.

A rich harvest is the result of proper care for Victoria. Garden strawberries, which are usually called “Victoria”, are a very tasty and aromatic berry. In fact, Victoria is just a variety of strawberry. Caring for strawberries and Victoria has some features and differences.