How to lay a beam on the foundation when building a house, bathhouse or other building from it? Exist various options fastening. An important point is base waterproofing. Protection from water is needed so that the lower crowns do not rot. If the differences in the foundation level exceed 1 cm, then the supporting surface is first leveled. Compliance with the technology of conducting installation work allows you to get a high-quality result - a durable structure.
Methods for fastening the bars of the first row
The lower crown of a beam for a log house or a frame-panel structure requires replacement most often, so the laying is done so that repairs can be easily carried out.
To connect the bars to the foundation, the following materials are used:
- hairpins;
- pins.
It happens that builders do not fix the first crown of timber to the base. Due to the significant weight of the building, they believe that the displacement of the erected structure will not occur.
Studs are laid during the pouring of the base with concrete. At the same time, their height margin is taken such that the first row of timber can be tightened with nuts without problems. To fix the lumber, holes are drilled in it for studs.
Nagels are reinforcing pins. They are also embedded in foundation slab or tape during the concreting stage, in order to then lay the beams.
On screw piles with U-shaped or plate heads, the crowns located below can also be changed if they use up their resource.
Anchor, rigid fastening does not allow to repair the structure in the future.
To fix the laid bars with each other, metal corners, staples, nails (including wooden ones) are also used. These fasteners are used in conjunction with grooved docking.
Base insulation
Before laying the first crown, the upper foundation surface is leveled already in the presence of a centimeter deviation of its level from the horizontal plane. After that, they must be laid waterproofing material.
The upper surface of the base must be without slope, drops, perfectly aligned. Check it with a laser or water, or building level. Alignment is often done cement-sand mortar. They can also close the gap, if there is one between the lower crown and the foundation surface. IN Lately For this purpose, they are mainly used construction foam. Its excess after hardening is cut off with a knife. The closed area at the end of the work is closed with a decorative strip or ebbs.
As a moisture-proof coating, roofing material is often used simultaneously with glass isol. The materials are laid on the base so that they protrude beyond its edges by about 0.25 m. It is recommended to make a waterproofing coating of two layers. Boards are placed between them. At the corners, roofing felt or other material used is overlapped.
Putting the first crown must be on top of the waterproofing. This is due to the fact that through a monolithic base from the soil it enters the lumber capillary moisture. The wood quickly rots and the building needs repair.
Preparatory stage
The preliminary stage before laying the first crown of timber on the foundation is to prepare the material and tools.
Everything you need to work is presented in the table below.
Wooden crafts must meet the following criteria:
- be without knots, and also without notches;
- the surface of the beam must be flat;
- for work, you need to use lumber from the core of trees, which does not give off a shade of blue.
For a log house, the height of the strip base above the ground should be at least half a meter. Completion is often done with bricks.
The material for row 1 can be treated with used oil, and the rest with antiseptic compounds.
Before starting construction, it is recommended that all lumber be checked for minor defects by marking these sides. They will position the beam up or down. Sides with bulges should be lateral.
The bars should be handled carefully so as not to miss any section. Otherwise, it will serve as a source for the spread of the putrefactive process. The quality of the material chosen is of paramount importance in ensuring the durability of the building.
Technology of laying timber on various types of foundation
The laying of the beam on the foundation is carried out with or without its fixing. If structural elements are joined with locks, then if dismantling is necessary, the entire dismantling process becomes much more complicated.
The joining of the bars in the corners is performed in the following main ways:
- in half a tree with a spike, when the upper half of it is cut off on one beam (the length along the width of the joined lumber), and on the other - the lower one;
- into the paw, while the cut-out connecting parts of the logs are connected without including their end parts.
The latter option has received the most practical distribution. The photograph below shows, in addition to the main ones, rare ways of connecting bars without residue and with it.
The sequence of actions showing how to properly lay the beam on a tape or slab base is as follows:
- determine the evenness of the tape or plate;
- if necessary, level their surfaces;
- choose best way lumber joining;
- with a smaller diameter than the used studs, drill holes in the bars;
- anchors are concreted;
- lay the lower crowns;
- fix them with nuts, having previously placed washers under them;
- with the help of nails connect the corners of the structure;
- check the level of the laid row;
- cut off irregularities with a planer.
If during the pouring of the base, fastenings were provided for the lower beam, embedded in concrete, then this greatly facilitates the whole process, speeding it up. In this case, the studs are inserted into the solution that has not yet solidified for a third of their length every 50 cm. The minimum number of bolts (fasteners) for each crown should be two. Lumber is pre-prepared by drilling holes of the desired diameter with the required pitch. The nuts are not over tightened to avoid distortion.
To fix the crowns on the piles, heads are mounted (for example, U-shaped), in which holes for fastening are provided on the sides. Previously, the supports are covered with roofing material (2-3 layers). The bars are mounted in grooves, connecting in the corners in the chosen way. Connect them to the supports with studs or screws.
If the heights of the piles differ slightly, then a bar is cut in the required places.
The technology of surface mounting assumes the absence of fixing lumber to the base. The whole laying process is carried out similarly to the option involving rigid fixation, only without the use of fasteners.
The crowns must be connected at an angle of 90 degrees. Otherwise, there will be problems with the further construction of the building. If you follow the technology, checking the geometry of the structure being erected, then the probability of deformation of the building will be minimized over time.
The installation process of the first row of timber is shown in the video below.
Various ways of laying the first crown of timber on the base have their supporters and opponents. There is no single opinion on this issue. Most experts recommend that the first row be fixed because of the possibility of foundation movements. Rigid mount will take over the movement. Only under heavy loads can the strapping move, pulling out the anchor. Reliable fastening will give stability to the constructed structure.
For many years, builders have been experimenting in search of a technological way to connect logs in a log house with a minimum of gaps. The log should sit - saddle "on the log of a perpendicular wall. To do this, it is necessary to build walls with a shift of half the diameter of the log. Therefore, a bed is placed in the base (from a log cut in half lengthwise), which is attached to the foundation with anchors. The bed is separated from the subfloor by two layers of dense closed-cell polyurethane foam 6 mm thick each. Polyethylene foam serves as both wind protection and waterproofing.
The use of mounting foam in construction and repair
Among the many tools in demand in Everyday life for almost any homeowner, there is an inexpensive and uncomplicated tool - a foam gun.
Is it possible to do without it?
I guess, yes. The reader probably knows that there are cans of foam for domestic use. In this case, the use of mounting foam is possible without the use of mounting gun. But my personal experience working with such cylinders (mounting seam in the photo on the left), as well as the subsequent experience of working with a mounting gun (mounting seam in the photo on the right) led me to the following thoughts:
1. Use mounting foam without a gun, even with infrequent, but fairly regular performance of work, it “comes out more expensive for itself” in terms of money, quality and time.
For example, when doing the work shown in the photo on the left, I spent three household cylinder(door frame width 300 mm). At the same time, it is very difficult to ensure the uniformity of the assembly seam and the subsequent quality. The photo on the right shows a mounting seam obtained when a foam gun was used. The mounting seam turned out to be of better quality, one cylinder was enough to complete the work.
2. Taking into account the price ratio (currently) for mounting guns and mounting foam, the issue from the point of view of cost savings is also in favor of using a mounting gun, since the gun will pay off after using three or four cylinders of mounting foam.
So, the matter remains small: to choose and buy a mounting gun from the countless variety that are on the shelves, and at the same time not make a mistake with the purchase. But at first very brief information for those who have not used this tool.
Note: this reference is provided for the correct perception of the text material in the article. Main structural elements mounting gun (and their purpose) are shown in the figure below.
foam gun photo
Given the fact that instructions are usually attached to the pistol, the information presented above will be enough to read and understand the article.
Overlay or "panel"?
Often, acquiring a plot with log house, the new owners are in a hurry to overlay it with a brick. This strengthens the structure, makes it more solid. However, many people often make the same mistake. Not calculating that the weight of the stone walls is not intended for the foundation wooden structure(which may not be under them at all!), you risk getting significant shrinkage in the foreseeable future, the consequence of which may be cracks in the walls of the house. This also happens because it "breathes", which means that its walls can "walk" due to temperature changes in different seasons of the year. This is especially noticeable where the transition from season to season is very sharp. Subsequently, all for the same reasons described above, it will not be safe to try to build on a brick second floor. 
In order to avoid such problems, consult with experts, conduct all reconnaissance activities before restructuring. By the way, the cosmetic cladding of the house can be done without resorting to bricks, but using modern panel materials. Plastic exterior panels are much lighter than brick, look pretty, and protect your home well from rain and snow. In addition, the house is lined with panels incomparably cheaper and faster than with bricks. The main thing is to lay between the house and sheets of panels air cushion: the panels are attached to the crate, which is made on the outer wooden wall. By the way, in the case of brick lining wooden house an air layer is needed, which, meanwhile, is done differently.
Warming of a wooden house
The ability to buy on credit has significantly expanded the number of owners wooden houses. The house made of wood is warm, cozy, beautiful, but besides good properties, the tree is prone to drying out, pest damage, cracking. Therefore, over time, it is necessary to carry out work on warming.
Warming should begin with a thorough external examination. It is necessary to identify all the cracks and holes from which the cold air, and then close them up. Particular attention should be paid to the corners - it is there that there is a high probability of damage. 
Use mounting foam or polyurethane sealants it is possible if you have a house made of glued laminated timber - this material, which has undergone the necessary heat treatment, is not subject to drying out. If it is a log house, then such a wooden house is constantly in "movement". Therefore, in just six months, the foam will collapse and you will have to carry out work again.
The most reliable and proven method for repairing cracks in wooden house- caulk. This method was used by our grandfathers. For caulking, it is best to use tow, and finish with a hemp rope.
Supporters of environmental solutions can use dry swamp moss - an excellent material for sealing cracks and crevices. The only problem is to collect required amount moss, if the amount of work is large. For houses made of logs, it is necessary to use interventional insulation, which is used as felt, linen or jute tow. For a house made of timber, the thickness of the insulation can be 10-15 mm, and for a house made of timber it should be up to 25 mm.
The next step is to insulate the ceiling. It is to the ceiling that the air heated by the stove or batteries rushes. There it cools and sinks down the walls to the floor. good decision for insulation of the ceiling is foam. You can also use mineral wool.
When choosing a material, it should be borne in mind that in addition to insulation, the material will block the passage of moisture through the ceiling, so the use of foil material is not recommended - this will lead to condensation on the ceiling and disrupt the natural atmosphere inside the house, can lead to fungi. Any waterproofing should be placed under the thermal insulation layer, and not vice versa.
When insulating walls Special attention you need to look at the windows. Especially often blows from the junctions window frame with a wall. Outside, it is recommended to caulk or use polymer sealants. If the windows are wooden, then periodic painting is not only refreshing appearance, but also gives additional tightness to the window.
It is better to use double-glazed windows. Glass must be framed silicone sealant. This will ensure that cold air does not blow out of the window in winter. Perfect solution – plastic windows. Only in this way can complete tightness be achieved.
If serious home insulation is required, then they are used insulation materials (mineral wool, slabs of basalt fiber, etc.), decorated on top with finishing materials.
Sometimes they cover a log house with bricks, if the foundation allows. But in this case, all the beauty of a wooden house is lost. The best option- construction glass veranda. This will create an air buffer zone while preserving the natural beauty of the wood.
Insulation of the house should not be postponed for the winter. It is better to carry out all the necessary repair work in summer, and in the cold season, only enjoy the coziness and comfort of your home.
Sealing and insulation of the crowns of a wooden house.
Despite a large number of contemporary building materials, many prefer to use for individual construction tree. Undoubtedly, wooden houses have their advantages: affordable price, environmental friendliness, beautiful appearance. But there are also disadvantages. The tree is very strongly deformed under the influence of moisture, cracks and cracks. The constant movement of the foundation, which occurs at any time of the year, also leads to an increase in the size of the seams between the crowns of a wooden house. Ultimately, the wooden structures of the house lose their tightness and begin to let in cold air and moisture. The problem can only be solved with the help of professional wood sealant. Some people mistakenly believe that mounting foam, putty, or any sealant can be used to seal wooden structures. In fact, the selection of sealant for wood is a rather serious task.
Wood sealant must be highly elastic. Polyurethane polyurethane foam does not possess such a property, respectively, with the subsequent deformation of wooden structures, they will not be able to provide sufficient tightness.
Silicone, polyurethane, thiokol, butyl rubber sealants and mastics do not have good adhesion to wood. They do not have the necessary degree of deformability and, moreover, do not blend well with wood in color. In addition, many of these sealants cannot be used indoors.
Accordingly, the ideal sealant for wood is an acrylic sealant with a high degree of deformability. Of the sealants presented in the assortment of our company, acrylic sealants for wood Atacamast 125 and Rustil-acrylic for wood are best suited for this work. These sealants have high deformability and excellent adhesion to wood. If you need to repair cracks in wooden structures at home, or fill the joints between the wall of a wooden house and window block, door frame and so on, our wood sealant is the perfect solution.
Now let's move on to the issue of insulation and sealing of the interventional seams of a wooden house from the outside. We note right away that it is better to do this work after the primary shrinkage of the house, that is, the next year, after laying the walls of the house. Before using sealant for wood, it is necessary to fill the gaps between the logs with insulation. For these purposes, the Vilaterm, Izodom tourniquet of the required section and diameter is best suited. It performs several important functions at once. 
First, it is a filler that reduces the consumption of wood sealant.
Secondly, the tourniquet improves the thermal insulation of the interventional seam.
Thirdly, the tow made of foam material acts as an anti-adhesion pad, which ensures that the wood sealant adheres only at two points - on the edges of adjacent logs.
Sealants Atacamast 125 and Rustil-acrylic for wood do not stick to the gasket, because only adheres to wood. Therefore, if you fill the seam between the crowns with a Vilaterm (Izod) type tourniquet, then the sealant layer will be, as it were, stretched over the sealing gasket and fixed along the edges to the logs. Why is this needed? Then, without such a heater, wood sealant penetrates inside the gap and sticks to inner surface logs. This effect is called: three-point adhesion. If the logs are deformed, then the sealant that has filled the entire internal space of the seam will simply come off one of the logs and all your work will be useless.
It should also be noted that the seams before starting work should be cleaned of dust, varnish, old paint, it is also better to lightly sand them. Work is best done at a moderately warm air temperature (about + 20 ° C). In very hot weather, the surface should be slightly moistened. In order for the seam to be even, use construction tape.
Summarize! The main tasks that our technology of sealing a wooden house solves:
Elimination of leaky seams.
Protection from the negative destruction of harmful insects.
Durability. Serves 20 years.
Exclusion of re-caulking.
Prevention of pulling away of a heater by birds.
Beauty and aesthetics.
Reduces heat loss.
Keeps the house green.
Thus, with one shot you kill 8 birds with one stone. A tube of sealant costs 310 rubles 900 grams, it is enough for about 15 m.p.
Features in the construction of wooden houses
Requires a different approach than stone. It should practically not have rigid fasteners so that all elements wooden frame had the ability to move relative to each other in the process of shrinkage or swelling of the log. When designing a wooden house, one must take into account the diameter and length of the log to be used. The rounded log is no more than 6 m, which imposes some restrictions on the layout. If space is needed large sizes, then you have to make a false joint of the log, the so-called cross, which moves away from the wall by 20 cm. But, in principle, this method allows you to make quite large rooms. Expansion gaps in a wooden house are also taken into account at the design stage. When designing, it is necessary to be tied to the modules characteristic of wooden housing construction - 1.1 m and 1.2 m (module industrial buildings- 6 m).
Based on the module, all buildings are calculated. The minimum thickness of the outer walls in a wooden house for our climatic conditions is 18 cm, but it is better to make 20 or 24 cm, depending on the breed and. The calculation of loads in the project must be carried out with all care, otherwise the lags will play and the floor will creak. The shrinkage of a log in a wooden house occurs not only in the transverse, but also in the longitudinal direction. The transverse shrinkage is compensated by the shrinkage of the log house, but in the process of longitudinal shrinkage, the ends of the logs diverge at the points of their joining, and cracks form between them over time. Therefore, such places in a wooden house must be designed at the place of overcuts so that they are blocked by a thermal lock. The dowels and the tenon-groove connection do not solve the issue, because in the process of shrinkage, gaps are formed, to which, after assembling the log house, you can no longer get close to further seal them. Not to mention how the visible joints of logs spoil the facade in a wooden house.
Layout: more is better than less Wooden house on paper and on the site does not always look the same. In the catalog of projects, a wooden house can be liked, and when it is built, the customer says that he wanted something completely different. For example, a 9 m2 kitchen in the project seems quite spacious. And when the house is built, it turns out that there is nowhere to turn around - such a kitchen is a little more than those that exist, in city apartments it is recommended to make kitchens of 15-20 m. It is also desirable to provide three bedrooms in a wooden house - two for the owners and one guest room. Optimal area a wooden house for a family of four - 150 m2, it makes no sense to do less. Others, starting to build a wooden house, easily enter the role of the demiurge of their native abode and begin to create. In 90% of cases, some changes are made to the project during construction.
At the same time, redesigning a project must be done wisely. Sometimes doing it the way the client wants is dangerous for the construction of a wooden house or directly contradicts the Building Code. If, despite admonitions, the future homeowner insists on his own, the construction company, as a rule, makes concessions, but at the same time disclaims responsibility for possible negative consequences and takes a receipt from the client. Only a competent architect will help to avoid design errors. Of course, his services are not cheap, but the main problem is not even in this, but in finding one. Especially for a wooden house.
In many firms, only a sketch of a house can be sketched, based on the wishes of the customer. Then it is transferred to a specialized design company - it makes all the calculations and develops a working draft, according to which it is possible to build a wooden house. Less capricious in this regard (at home Canadian technology). Even if mistakes were made during their design (or just a desire to change something), they can be corrected during construction: the wall can be unscrewed, moved to another place and reassembled.
Two words about the foundation common mistake when constructing a foundation for a wooden house - its design does not coincide with the design of the log house according to the project. In general, a wooden house on the foundations is not very whimsical, since it is almost 2 times lighter than a brick one. Now many are building a wooden house not even on strip foundation, and on the columnar - along the perimeter of the future building (at the main points where the load is), pipes are dug into the ground and concreted and a house is placed on them. This allows you to significantly reduce the cost of construction. Shrinkage, shrinkage, shrinkage To foresee shrinkage is the main duty and the first sign of a competent architect.
It's no secret that shrinkage in a wooden house natural humidity happens for two reasons. The first is the drying of logs (shrinkage 5-8% depending on the initial humidity). For example, a log with a diameter of 240 mm may lose 10-20 mm by the end of shrinkage. The second is the collapse of logs under the weight of the load and the opening of cracks (up to 2%). Thus, the total shrinkage is 6-10%, sometimes up to 15%. Type of raw material Shrinkage Raw up to 7% (ie for each meter - 7 cm shrinkage) Glued laminated timber 1% Visible shrinkage in a wooden house occurs during the first two years. Each floor will shrink by 10-20 cm. For example, if you built walls 3 m high, then in a year they will become 2.8 m.
And the shrinkage, imperceptible to the eye, will continue for another 10 years, but already quite insignificant. Therefore, when arranging openings in a wooden house for windows and doors, it is imperative to give a margin, otherwise, when the house shrinks, it will simply “crush” the door or window, the frame may warp, up to the point that the glass will crack. If in the corners of a wooden house the logs are connected "in a cup", then at the notches of the cups it is also necessary to give reserves for shrinkage. If this is not done, then when the logs dry out, they "hang", and gaps form between them. 
By the way, SNiPs allow the use of wood with a moisture content of no more than 25%, while in practice wooden houses are often built from damp logs with a moisture content of 30-40%. In wooden houses created from an array, a device is necessary seat, gap, in places of window and doorways- from 6 to 10 cm. The building sits on these 6-10 cm. For glued laminated timber, these gaps are 3-4 cm. Glued laminated timber shrinks in the process of gradual loading, by the time the final installation of the wooden house, it completely shrinks.
Wooden houses are alive, whether they are made of fresh sawn timber or glued beams. A wooden house made of solid wood, having completely dried out and settled down after 3 years, having a moisture content of 18%, constantly gives and takes away moisture from 3 to 5%, depending on which climate zone you are as protected by the walls. " Interior decoration in a wooden house it is impossible to produce in wet weather (especially in winter, autumn). The tree will definitely take 3-4% of moisture from environment, and when they turn it on in a wooden house, cracks will appear.
In addition, a wooden house should stand up: a box with a roof (but without windows, so that it is blown through) should stand for six months or a year, then with windows - another six months. In total, you can move in only after 2 years. Tricks on the terrace Throughout the entire period of shrinkage, the wooden house needs to be “twisted”. a company that built a wooden house.Workers from hired teams usually do not make these expansion joints, which leads to negative consequences.Vertical structures (pillars, columns) are another weak point in a wooden house during shrinkage.In a wooden house, a terrace is often arranged, of course, supported by poles.
Special anchor bolts with a power reserve of up to 10 cm should be drilled into these pillars, which must be tightened during shrinkage in a wooden house. Without this, it is likely that the roof will simply pull to the side. The same goes for the columns inside a wooden house. If you put poles without compensators, it turns out that one half of the wooden house of the village, and the second does not let the pole. And the wooden house will become skewed. The crews that built it are usually out of reach by this time.
This is usually followed by a call to specialists from a construction company (and they are reluctant to respond, since they have enough of their clients who need to be "twisted" in time). As a result, due to the negligent attitude of unscrupulous workers, a prejudice arises that a wooden house is bad. Do no harm... with metal In Rus', only wood and wood have always been built. If vertical elements were needed to fasten logs, they used the so-called dowels - thick wooden nails. To date, they have not come up with anything better. If a wooden house is assembled by non-professionals, they can knock down logs with iron fittings. The moisture contained in the air and in the log house is enough for the metal to begin to rust (especially since the humidity at the bottom of the wall is greater than at the top).
In turn, this will cause the wood to rot, especially the first 2-3 crowns. Therefore, it is better to drill the first crown of a wooden frame to the foundation with a stainless thread, and then use dowels. Or make the first 2-3 crowns from larch - it is so resistant to moisture that it is used even in shipbuilding. True, it is not cheap: there is very little of it in Ukraine and it is mainly imported from Russia. You can also fasten a wooden beam to the foundation with the help of galvanized ferrous metal. In wood, which shrinks less, metal ties can be used. In a wooden house made of rounded logs, they cannot be used, you can only add them as individual elements. It is also not recommended to connect the logs of a wooden house at one cut over the entire height of the wall in more than three crowns. In this place, floors may sag over time.
In the right frame, all logs should be connected in a checkerboard pattern, intertwined like a vine in a wicker basket. Only in this case, the wooden house will begin to shrink evenly, will be as strong and durable as possible. Nagel - it is necessary! The structure of the wooden log house is supported by oak dowels, a hole is drilled under them in the log, and the dowels are driven into 3 logs. This makes it possible for the wood not to walk. Some hack and hammer in nails; when dried, it turns out that the logs "hang" like a barbecue on a skewer. Connecting logs with dowels is a laborious process, so workers sometimes do not insert them at all. Improper fastening of the dowels can also cause the wall to buckle (bulge outwards). And no mounting foam!
Wood - 100% natural material. The same should be the insulating materials laid between the logs in the log house. It can be linen, tow, moss (however, it is more common in Russia, and is practically not used in Ukraine). IN last resort- synthetic winterizer: this is a neutral material. But, in no case should you blow foam between the logs - who needs an environmentally friendly wooden house with the addition of chemicals?
Window cases In any wooden houses, gaps are needed between the supporting structures and the enclosing structures. For example, walls, windows, doors cannot fit closely, otherwise they will simply be torn apart. If a wooden house is built from an array, as soon as a window or doorway is cut down, it is necessary to make guides in it. A groove is made at the end vertically with a width of 35 mm, into which guides are inserted - metal pipe. A window or door frame. They compensate for the possible provocations of the log.
In practice, it turns out that cutting a window in a wooden house is a task that not everyone can do. On device corner connections make many mistakes if the grooves and locks are cut on the spot. Therefore, it is better that they are made at the factory. Windows are inserted in a wooden house, often using technology designed for brick houses: they put it on a rigid mount, blow it out with mounting foam, close it with a casing - and that's it.
This is a gross mistake, even if the windows are metal-plastic. "Application polyethylene film over the insulation in the windows of a wooden house is unacceptable, since it does not allow air to penetrate. Instead, it is supposed to be inserted into the gap between the frame and the hole for the window. mineral insulation, and then close with special paper, and then a platband is placed. Today, few people use it, but it must be demanded. And in no case can not use mounting foam.
Laborant 13-03-2014 16:40
Is it kosher?
I see that they are building in full, and not only for sale, but also for themselves, obviously.
Maybe I've always been wrong?
John892 13-03-2014 16:57
The types who came up with mounting foam, at a lecture at the institute where I studied, talked about the 8 years that the foam lives, then it must be cleaned and re-foamed. If you have a little patience, then it is better to caulk.
Lesnik 61 13-03-2014 17:07
quote: at the institute where I studied, they talked about 8 years that foam lives,
Something suggests that in 8 years, you will have to choose with an ax what will settle under the foam, whether it will help, this is the second question.
comrade Beria 13-03-2014 17:24
They say that the foam lives longer, only now it must be protected from ultraviolet radiation and moisture. Yes, and you need to foam on a cleaned and moistened surface.
goga-313 13-03-2014 18:56
I, here, foamed. The house is playing, and because the foam is hard, then cracks appear. IMHO.
But I'm still happy. It was impossible to caulk the log house, it was old
and initially poorly cut (on one linear meter, the gaps were from 3-4 cm to 0 cm)
And he's already seated.
goga-313 13-03-2014 18:58
Winston7 13-03-2014 19:13
foam destroys ultraviolet. under than very quickly. 2-3 months and rubbish.
and so it seems to be the norm, I removed the cash from the early 2000s, the foam was alive.
Laborant 13-03-2014 19:14
The house is playing, and because the foam is hard, then cracks appear.
What if you build from scratch? What's stopping you from doing the right thing? To live by ourselves.
KM 13-03-2014 22:32
quote: Originally posted by goga-313:
Yes, I heard that there is a special elastic foam, but it is expensive and I have not seen it.
There is a special composition, but it is not just expensive, but insanely expensive. Yes, and they untwist it in such a way that analogies immediately arise with all sorts of super remedies for weight loss.
Andrey60 14-03-2014 01:23
There is an interventional sealant, I personally do not want it. But I’ll throw in: what is better to caulk, jute or flax?
Mak Dak 14-03-2014 11:07
Andrey60 14-03-2014 13:27
It turns out that there is no difference, except for the color. And if you close the cord, then none at all. Thank you.
John892 14-03-2014 15:53
quote: Originally posted by Mak Dak:
brick and cement rule, much more reliable and durable. And the miser pays twice
Drop accepted. I would never build my house out of bricks because I am stingy.
Rusich 14-03-2014 20:49
foam? Isothiocyanate??
Enemy in the house.
Mower_man 14-03-2014 22:01
isothiocyanate
Rusich 14-03-2014 22:23
Wow, boo.
There are no synthetics in my house.
Gasar 15-03-2014 09:29
quote: There are no synthetics in my house.
If the house is not in the wilderness of the taiga, your health will not notice this.
Yes, it is also important not to move more than 10 km from home, from birth to death.
quote: But I’ll throw in: what is better to caulk, jute or flax?
IMHO, it doesn't matter.
Mower_man 15-03-2014 10:11
quote: Originally posted by Rusich:
Wow, boo.
There are no synthetics in my house.
*** cyanates - it sounds scary, but there is one problem with it, it is completely consumed during the polymerization reaction ...)))
Laborant 15-03-2014 14:45
quote: Originally posted by Andrey60:
But I’ll throw in: what is better to caulk, jute or flax?
Remembered! Moss!
Lesnik 61 15-03-2014 14:56
I still need to get it, it’s easier for me, I built a bathhouse, drove off 300 meters, kicked as much as necessary and forward, not everyone is so lucky. And not every moss goes.
Andrey60 15-03-2014 15:45
The bath is built on moss, which does not exclude caulking at all.
Lesnik 61 15-03-2014 16:12
quote: which does not exclude caulk at all.
When the birds pulled out the moss, he struck it with an ordinary hemp rope.
Bezmen 15-03-2014 21:29
so there, immediately during assembly, some kind of mineral wool was laid between the logs
Abar 16-03-2014 08:35
In reality, if the foam is closed from UV, then nothing will happen to it for many, many years, it doesn’t turn completely into dust in the light, it becomes brittle, crumbles, but keeps quite tightly ...
cadmium 29-04-2014 14:33
In the USA and Canada, cracks are traditionally covered with lime or cement mortar between logs. Sometimes a strip of metal mesh is laid along the logs. It has been standing for centuries. There is also a simpler structure of the log house. The logs are laid through one. On two transverse, two longitudinal, on them again two transverse, etc. It turns out a frame-cage. There are generally huge gaps, but they are also filled with lime or cement. It stands as if rooted to the spot. In fact, this is not savagery and not from laziness. The mechanical processing of logs is minimal, they can be any, and filling the gaps in the frame of logs or timber with lime, clay, earth in the west has been a tradition since European half-timbered construction.
dim99 29-04-2014 16:20
In the USA and Canada, cracks are traditionally covered with lime or cement mortar between logs.
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we also saw this ... at home for 50-60 years and even without a foundation .. lower crowns on the ground
rufei 29-04-2014 17:27
quote: Originally posted by dim99:
we also saw this ... at home for 50-60 years and even without a foundation .. lower crowns on the ground
We put them on boulders, they stand for at least 50 years.
theoretical 29-04-2014 21:02
quote: Originally posted by Bezmen:
somehow I saw a wooden house in a completely non-budget village
so there, immediately during assembly, some kind of mineral wool was laid between the logs
There is some kind of non-woven substance in the form of a thick rag. Trade name - dornit. Initially, it was intended to strengthen weak soils, but then norot adapted to poke it into any gap - from insulation in houses to filters in wells. Here on it at sunset the USSR was assembled timber houses. Its properties are similar to moss - it is breathable, does not rot, does not emit anything offensive.
handmade 29-04-2014 21:20
I'll follow the topic.
unname22 30-04-2014 09:47
foam is a terrible thing, while everything is fine you don’t even think about it, but if God forbid a fire, you will stay there.
When burning, the foam decomposes into very unpleasant substances.
baochka 30-04-2014 10:46
1. moss
2. jute
3. tow
Everything else is from the evil one.
I myself saw how they lay a bar on: felt, thin foam, isover, foam, on something gray-brown-raspberry (the builders themselves found it difficult to answer).
Foam (and not only) does not breathe. As a result, the tree begins to rot, etc.
Abar 02-05-2014 10:30
quote: but if God forbid a fire - you will stay there.
There is a special non-combustible foam - I foamed the floor joints next to the stove.
andre 08-05-2014 18:17
quote: Trade name - dornite. Initially, it was intended to strengthen weak soils, but then norot adapted to poke it into any gap - from insulation in houses to filters in wells. Here, at the sunset of the USSR, lumber houses were assembled on it. Its properties are similar to moss - it is breathable, does not rot, does not emit anything offensive.
Dornit is still shit-logs around it rot 100 times faster than usual - they didn’t have time to put a log house, sawed openings under the windows, and where the logs are already blue.
vulcan1600 25-05-2014 11:36
It happens even worse.
Straight from lunch.
andre 25-05-2014 16:01
quote: It happens even worse.
They just brought dornit, and already the whole brigade is blue.
Straight from lunch.
what is the connection with dornite? or joined the brigade?
ICEberg1981 25-05-2014 19:48
heresy
the very meaning of the beam is lost
Andrewblake 25-05-2014 22:02
Moss (sphagnum) has bactericidal properties, prevents decay.
Do they lay logs with jute, but don’t they break through an already finished log house?
Mitro 28-05-2014 06:31
Wood will rot under the foam, and in the end, after 3-5 years, it will die (it will delaminate, crack, crumble). Will have to re-foam.
Moss - can crumble, and tow - a little gemorno to lay. When building his house, he used jute - quickly, efficiently and practically. But you still need to caulk)))). The rest is nonsense and heresy. If the house is wooden, I don’t think it’s worth doing perversion and inventing something. Everything has already been thought of before us.
When building a house, it is very important to lay the timber correctly. Everything is quite simple here, you just need to carefully follow a certain technology.
When building a log house, it is very important to correctly and evenly lay the beam, so that later the walls of the house are perfectly even.
You also need to accurately perform calculations with the help of which the walls will be perfectly even, and, of course, purchase all the materials and tools necessary for laying the beams.
Quality materials to get the job done
To lay the beam, you will need:
- bars;
- ruberoid;
- stekloizol;
- metal dowels;
- nails;
- staples;
- rule;
- bituminous mastic;
- hydraulic level;
- antiseptic;
- assembly foam.
Before laying the timber, be sure to lay waterproofing in 2-3 layers, then lining. After that, you will need to lay another 1 layer of waterproofing.
You must first waterproof the base.
To do this, you will need to lay roofing material 2 times and stekloizol once. Just keep in mind that the width of the laid layers should be 20 cm more than the width of the foundation.
For waterproofing the base of the log house, use stekloizol.
When you lay the bars, make sure that they are in close contact. Also, don't leave gaps in the walls. As a rule, the bars are attached to each other metal dowels. And with the help of a mallet they are finished off. If the bend on the bar is very small, then it must be laid down with an even part.
Please note that sometimes additional stapling or nails are required in order to connect the lower bars. Put them every two products.
Before installing waterproofing on a roofing felt base, check that its upper plane is horizontal. To properly check the levelness, you will need a hydraulic level. The differences should not be more than 1 cm on the entire base. If the differences are large, then you will need to level the plane with a solution.
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Structural durability testing
Before installing the log house, check whether the structure is durable. Next, lay out the material, the thickness of which is 12-14 cm. Just apply an antiseptic on them in advance. After that, put the bars on the exposed rails. Thanks to the rails, the base will not come into contact with the crown. This is how you can increase the life of the tree. And the gap between the beam and the base will need to be filled with mounting foam.
After that, you can check the evenness of the surfaces. You need to understand that if the first crown is uneven, then the walls will turn out to be crooked. Once all the irregularities are eliminated, proceed to the next step - fill the gap with foam.
When you get the tools to the site, prepare the bars. It is worth buying high-quality products, without darkening and with the minimum amount knots. When choosing a timber, pay attention to the cut of annual rings: purchase products that have a high density of rings. In this way, the laying of the beam will be better.
On the purchased tree, be sure to apply bituminous mastic and working out. This is how the mixture is well absorbed into the bars. You need to do this a couple of times. The ends do not need to be processed; with their help, moisture will be removed from the wood. If you properly process the log house, then it will last as long as possible.
In addition, in certain situations, the first crown is not attached to the base - the building will turn out to be very heavy and will stand well on the base without anchors.
30.09.2008, 13:37
For the second floor, we plan everything with a beam.
External walls and partitions 100*150.
Outside, anyway, the minplate is 100mm and wet facade.
How is the load-bearing structure 150 is enough?
Just pulling 150 * 150 up is not easy enough.
Well, the most important thing...
Instead of moss or tow - polyurethane foam.
Those. The beam is stacked on top of each other, stitched with nails 150, between the beam there is a gasket 100 mm long, 1 cm thick, approximately every two meters.
After laying the timber in the amount of 3-4 pieces, the resulting cracks are simply foamed with foam. after it is bursting, the gasket is knocked out - it foams or just foams.
The beam will not rise - checked, the foam will fall out of the grooves, cut off with a simple knife.
In reality, I did a bath, hesitated to break through, and all the same, the birds drag the dogs.
And again, the second floor of moisture will not be there. The timber will be 2.2m in total, then the sloping roof and the ceiling will be a semi-attic. and breaking through twice at the level of the second floor is simply not realistic - you are tormented to put scaffolding ...
And so the consumption of foam - if a professional tool - then it goes away a little.
I did the floors - they foamed the gaps between the boards for 40 m2 (8 * 5) - one balloon left.
Who will say what? Bullshit or makes sense.
Inside, it is planned to share the entire second floor with clapboard, but outside - a wet facade on mineral slabs.
The first floor - brick walls, floor slabs and also a wet facade, but made of foam plastic.
30.09.2008, 13:47
30.09.2008, 15:35
I just installed wooden windows 4 years ago - I don’t see any problems now.
30.09.2008, 17:25
somewhere I saw a review ... like it's foam is cool, but after a while serious troubles come out .... I don't remember exactly.
It was, it was ... I also don’t remember where ... Of the main troubles, they wrote there, in my opinion, that sooner or later (in 5-10 years) the foam from the seams can simply crumble. Then there was something about the strength of the wall. After harmful secretions from the frozen foam on the cuts...
Andrew teacher
30.09.2008, 18:03
30.09.2008, 19:09
I’m thinking something else - did you need such a powerful caulk? in the same place a heater snarzhi + a wet facade?
01.10.2008, 02:01
I’m thinking something else - did you need such a powerful caulk? in the same place insulation insulation + wet facade? own experience I'll say it's not needed. Even harmful. Because the wind protection over the insulation itself creates sufficient protection against blowing through the wall, and the leaks between the bars help maintain moderate air exchange between the room and the atmosphere with minimal heat loss to this component of the general ventilation. And this part is pretty decent. In any case, with completely clogged windows, closed valves in the oven and a ventilation riser in the kitchen in the house in winter, no stuffiness is felt. A wall made of timber on a lining of flax wool, insulation, wind protection and sheathing from the outside with a blockhouse.
I also met statements on the Internet that “If a wall“ breathes ”, like a wall made of timber or logs 15–20 cm thick, then heat is returned. This reduces heat loss by 30%, so the value of the thermal resistance of the wall obtained during the calculation should be multiplied by 1.3 (or the heat loss should be reduced accordingly)." See [Links are available only to registered users]
01.10.2008, 06:34
And so the consumption of foam - if a professional tool - then it goes away a little.
According to my calculations, if the perimeter is say 8x8, the volume of compacted cavities will be 1m3 and it will take about 20 balloons. 3500 rub. But that's not the point.
Qualitatively foam a seam with a depth of 15 cm and a thickness of 1 cm VERY! difficult. And because of the curvature of the timber, your seam will not be 1 cm everywhere, but somewhere half a cm, somewhere 3 cm. You will suffer with gaskets. And you can't beat them. Over time (not immediately, but in 10 years) the foam will be crushed and shrinkage only at the seams will be 10 cm + shrinkage of the timber itself.
IMHO the idea is not good.
