Installation of platbands for interior doors 90 degrees. We choose platbands on the door. Video - Do-it-yourself installation of plastic platbands

In this article, I'll show you how to assemble door frame, namely how to cut down and assemble a door frame in two different versions:

Washed down boxes at 45°
I washed down the boxes at 90 °.

box with seal

The interior door consists of a door leaf, hinged hinges, mortise lock or latches, as well as the door frame. As a rule, a door frame, for doors of the middle price class, is supplied in the form of a do-it-yourself “constructor”, that is, unassembled. The box consists of three profiled wooden beams covered with veneer or film to match the color of the door leaf. The length of the vertical beams is 2100-2200 mm; the length of the horizontal beam is 1000-1100 mm. Door frames differ from each manufacturer in their readiness for installation.

For some manufacturers, door frames are already sawn and cut at an angle of 45 °, just the size of the door leaf and fully prepared for assembly. But most of the boxes are delivered unprepared. They need to be prepared.

Consider two options for assembling the door frame

Option 1. Washed down and assembled the box at an angle of 45 °

Correct docking of the door frame in the corners

Washed down boxes on a stool

Door frame ready to assemble

Take two future vertical bars of the box. With a blade size of 2000 mm and a finishing flooring at 30 mm, the length of the short side of the beam should be -2000 + 30 + the gap between the canvas and the finishing floor: 10-15 mm = 2040-2045 mm.
Put a mark on inside Bars of the box according to the required length of the canvas.
Cut off the excess at an angle. The sawing angle of the timber should be 135° on the inside or -45° on the outside. The length of both vertical Beams of the box must be the same.
Do the same procedure with a horizontal short bar. The only difference is that you will have to saw off from two sides. Be careful with sizes. The main thing in all carpentry work: Measure seven times, cut once.

When marking, do not forget that the gap between the canvas and the box itself should be 3 mm.

Option 2: Assemble the box at a 90° angle

90° box assembly

Type of door frame for direct connection

90 degree door frame connection

Preparing for Direct Box Connection

With this build option, uprights the future box is removed, the so-called vestibule of the box, for a thickness vertical bar. See drawing.

Assembling the door frame step by step

Collecting a door frame with a gash

After preparing the box, we proceed to assemble it.

Place the prepared box pieces on the floor. Connect the corner joints of the box with self-tapping screws, two self-tapping screws in each corner. In door frames sawn at 90 °, the screws are screwed in at a right angle (photo above left). In door frames sawn at 45°, the screws are screwed in at an angle of 45° (photo above right). The box is almost complete.

In order to keep the vertical posts parallel and match the distance between them according to the size of the door leaf, lay the door leaf on the “almost assembled” frame, as it will stand in the opening. Fix the gap between the canvas and the box by inserting identical pieces of hardboard or wedges into the gap.

Fixing the canvas in the box for its proper assembly

Now the box needs to be fixed in this position. You can do this in several ways.

Ways to fix the door frame, in the desired position, before installation

Method 1. Fix the door frame with not thick rails. Nail the slats perpendicular to the uprights, with thin nails at the very edge of the vertical uprights. There should be two rails: in the middle and at the bottom.

Mounting bracket for box assembly

Method 2. Strengthen the joints of the box beams of the future box. Add wide and rigid power corners with holes for fastening to the screws. Screw the power corners, strictly checking the perpendicularity of both vertical and horizontal Beams. But I advise adding another fixing rail to the bottom of the box.

The assembly of the door frame is over, remove the canvas from the box. assembled box ready for installation.

That's all! Good luck to you in your endeavors!

Specially for the site:

Doors are more often purchased in a disassembled state, when the canvas is located separately, and the door frame in general is just a set of profiled wooden beams. True, you should not be afraid of this, since the process of assembling a door frame with your own hands is quite simple.

Door frame mounting tools

swivel chair,
perforator and screwdriver,
hand hacksaw,
carpenter's level and plumb line,
Bulgarian,
pry bar, nail puller, hammer,
set of hardware.

Preparatory work

So, you have already modeled your future interior door and prepared the tools. Now, to install a new door frame, you need to dismantle the old doors.

To do this, the platbands are first removed, and then, trying not to harm the wall, they are removed with a hacksaw, mount and other necessary tool old door frame.

If her fasteners If you can’t turn them out, then you can simply cut them with a grinder. After that, it will be useful to carefully examine the wall for the need to strengthen it.

If you find many cracks on the surface, and the surface begins to crumble with a slight impact, then for the reliability of installation and the durability of the new door, you will need to additionally carry out concrete work to strengthen doorway.

We take measurements and assemble the box

This part of the work during the installation of the door frame, without exaggeration, can be called one of the most important. Here you will need to accurately calculate the length of the racks, as well as the upper jumper with or without a threshold (the lower bar in modern doorways usually not done). The width and height of the door frame should ideally be 2-3 cm less than the size of the doorway, so that the gap between the bars and the wall is no more than 1-1.5 cm.

Sometimes it happens that the size of the opening is much more sizes doors and, accordingly, boxes. If the difference is relatively small, then a bar of the appropriate thickness can be filled across the entire width of the opening. If the size discrepancy is significant, then the opening is laid with bricks, or part of the wall is sheathed with drywall. But in any case, to avoid unnecessary expenses and efforts, dismantle in advance old door, measure the dimensions of the opening, and in accordance with them already buy new door.

There are several options for assembling the box, but the most popular of them are two - with fastening the bars at an angle of 45 and 90 degrees. For each of them, different measurements are taken.

Advice. In some cases, when arranging the interior, use will be justified - where there is not enough space for classic drop-down doors.

We fix the bars at an angle of 45 degrees

The length of the vertical bars in this case consists of the height of the opening for the door, the thickness of the upper lintel, the threshold (if any) and the dimensions of the required gaps from above and below. The latter are usually taken at 3 mm. Naturally, both vertical beams should be equal in length.

The lengths of the lintel and threshold are calculated by adding the width of the door itself, the thickness of each vertical beam and the same gaps. Remember that in order to fasten the elements of the door frame at an angle of 45 degrees, you need to thoroughly calculate the dimensions, make the necessary markings, and then cut the timber.

The connection is fixed with a pair of screws in pre-drilled holes. The screws are screwed into the bars at an angle of 45 degrees, and if drilling is not done in advance, the wooden profile may simply crack.

We fasten the bars at an angle of 90 degrees

In this case, the horizontal profile of the door frame will lie on the vertical one. Accordingly, the dimensions of the vertical bars will be determined as the height of the door itself plus a pair of gaps of 3 mm each at the top and bottom.

This is for the option with a threshold. If the latter is not present, then instead of 3 mm of the lower gap, you will need to add a whole centimeter, i.e. 10 mm, so that the door does not cling to the floor covering.

The width of the threshold and the upper lintel will be calculated as the sum of the width of the door leaf, double the thickness of the vertical beam and a pair of 3 mm gaps. In addition, so that the protruding part of the profile, on which the door rests when closing, does not interfere with connecting the bars to each other, it will be necessary to make landing selections.

That is, the vestibule - the protruding part along the edges of the horizontal bars, will simply need to be cut to the width of the vertical profile. This will require a minimum of tools:

hacksaw,
carpenter's hammer,
chisel.

Accordingly, with a hacksaw, you will need to carefully make a cut to the width of the protruding part of the profile, and then with a chisel with a hammer, simply chip off an unnecessary piece of the profile and clean the surface. Fastening is carried out similarly with self-tapping screws at an angle of 90 degrees.

Hinge installation

This is also a fairly simple, albeit crucial step in installing the door frame:

Decide how the door will open (inward or outward) in order to choose the side on which you will need to hang the hinges;
Place the door leaf and frame on a flat surface;

Measure 20 cm from the upper and lower edges of the door leaf and mark for installing hinges;
Attach the hinges to the end of the door leaf at the mark, circle them along the contour, and then carefully draw along these lines with a sharp knife;

Further, in this place, with the help of a chisel, it will be necessary to make a recess with a depth corresponding to the thickness of the loop so that the latter does not go beyond the structure;
Mark the place in the recess made for the screws, drill the corresponding holes and fasten the loop;

Inserting hinges into a door frame with a milling cutter

Do the same on the door frame with the second side of the hinges.

When buying a new door, you need to think about the installation process. You can invite specialists, but if you want to save as much as possible, you can always do the installation yourself. Let's talk about the specifics of such work in detail.

Installing the door frame is a crucial step. From correct installation depends on the work door block.

special attention requires the installation of a door frame. Depend on this operational properties any door. Consider different variants installation of the box, taking into account the complete set of the door block and the material used for production.

In order for the installation of the door block to be successful, everything must be carefully thought out, measured, and selected. Examine the opening you plan to close beautiful facade. In old rooms, walls and openings do not have perfect lines. The same can be said about new houses. Measurements of the opening must be thorough from all sides.

Depends on the measurement accuracy right choice door frame and canvas.

If the door is not manufactured according to individual sizes, you must choose ready-made version which has certain standards. After taking measurements, you can understand what to do with the doorway, which should not differ much in size from standard canvas. For example, with a portal width of 900 mm, it is possible by 800. The remaining millimeters will be required for the door frame, technological gaps.

Having determined the size of the product, we select the complete set of doors. On the shelves construction stores There are three types of kit available:

single leaf - you need to buy a door frame yourself (usually this wooden beam without decorative finishes), hinges, lock, extensions, platbands;
leaf with a door frame made of the same material (solid, MDF), can be equipped with platbands;
full set door block assembled at the factory - installation requires only forces and assistants to level the door.

The choice of product depends on the consumer. The longest and most difficult way to install the box is to buy the first version of the door, when all the elements of the block must be bought and assembled by yourself. Therefore, we will dwell on this option in more detail. After studying our instructions, you can install any door without involving unauthorized persons.

Installing the door frame from the first to the last step

Assume that the walls of the doorway are already prepared for installation work, doors are selected according to the size of the opening. For clarity of the process, a separate canvas and timber for the box was chosen.

The installation of the door frame takes place in several stages, starting with the preparation of tools and sawing off excess length from the frame slats.

Prepare a place for everyone necessary elements. For this, a flat floor covered with cardboard or oilcloth is suitable.

For installation, we will prepare the following items:

canvas;
timber - 3 pcs.;
extensions, if the wall is wider than the door frame;
platbands;
loops - 2 pcs. (for interior doors), 3 pcs. (for input);
lock;
self-tapping screws;
dowels;
electric saw or hacksaw with fine teeth;
miter box, square, tape measure;
drill with different nozzles and drills;
screwdriver with nozzles;
hammer or mallet;
any building level;
polyurethane foam with or without a gun;
masking tape, so as not to stain the surface or fix some elements.

We have listed everything and in general. Now let's look at the installation of the door frame in stages.

Preparing the elements

Unpack the door leaf, door frame elements (if they are included).
Inspect the product and accessories for completeness and the absence of marriage. After installation, it will not be possible to return a defective door.
Remove the door leaf to the side, we will need it later.
Lay out the timber for the box on the floor. If parts for the frame are purchased separately, they must be adjusted to the size of the canvas and opening.

This is where the assembly process begins. There are several ways to assemble the vertical and horizontal racks of the door frame:

Groove assembly

This method involves the connection of elements with an overlap. A certain groove must be made in the vertical bar, allowing you to connect the vertical bar to the horizontal flush.

One way to install a door frame is to assemble the elements into a groove.

Many factory models provide just such an assembly option. You can also make a groove with your own hands if the racks are assembled from building timber and not MDF blanks.

To begin with, we will make measurements in order to file the parts to the desired length. We measure the doorway at several points. We take a smaller result as a basis, not forgetting to leave a distance for polyurethane foam. It is also necessary to know the dimensions of the door leaf, adding clearances for the free movement of the door in the box. 3-5 mm is enough on each side. We take as a basis a door leaf 800 mm wide and 2000 mm high. The door frame must have the following dimensions:

for a door with a threshold - 806x2006 mm;
without a threshold, we take into account a larger gap for opening the canvas - 806x2010 mm.

With a threshold, a door to the bathroom and toilet is usually installed.

Installation of an interior door with a threshold is required only for the bathroom and toilet.

The rest of the openings do not require a threshold for movement to be unobstructed.

How to correctly measure the opening, calculate the size of the vertical and horizontal bars can be viewed in the video plot presented at the end of the article.

In the upper part of the vertical racks we make recesses for installing a horizontal bar, which should stand up. The length of the horizontal bar is calculated taking into account the thickness of the beam and the recess in it. If the width of the entire box is to be 806 mm, the horizontal bar will be smaller. Let's assume that the beam has a thickness of 30 mm. In each rack we will make a groove of 10 mm. So, 806-20 \u003d 786 mm is the length of the horizontal bar installed in the groove.
We mark the size of the groove on the vertical slats of the box, making an indent of 10 mm from the outer edge and 30 mm from the top end.
Carefully remove the marked part of the beam. Do the same with the second column.
We check the connection of the elements and the conformity of the size.
We connect the elements with self-tapping screws, pre-drilling holes with a drill.

The first way to assemble the door frame is completed.

The second way to assemble the elements of the door frame.

This method has a slight difference in sawing rack elements.

Measurements are carried out by the same method as in the above-described version of the assembly of the box into the groove. The only difference is the length of the horizontal bar. It should be full width, i.e. 806 mm, because the edges will be filed at 45 degrees.
After the beam has been sawn into desired length, it is necessary to make cuts at the required angle. To do this, take the miter box, which will become a template. If there is no such tool, make a drink by eye.
We connect the elements with self-tapping screws, driving them inward at an angle of 45 degrees.
Check the dimensions again.

Perhaps this is the most easy way door frame.

Assembling the box at an angle of 90 degrees is the easiest and most affordable way to assemble the box with your own hands.

For self-assembly He fit better all options. It does not require special skill and special tools.

Only the horizontal bar needs to be sawn off a little smaller, given the thickness of the vertical racks. In our case, this is 60 mm, i.e. 806-60 = 746 mm.
Connect all the elements together with self-tapping screws. Use two pieces on each side. Remember to drill holes so that the timber does not crack. Drive the caps of the self-tapping screws inside the timber.

Choose any way you like to assemble the door frame.

installing only the box in the opening, and then hanging the canvas;
installation of the complete set.

The second option is usually used, because it is quite difficult to hang the canvas after mounting the box in the opening and it is within the power of specialists.

Installation of fittings and door leaf in the box

Hinges must be screwed to the assembled frame. The hinges may be different, but despite this, the installation of the hinges is not much different:

We make markings on a vertical rack, taking into account the direction of opening the door leaf. Step back 200 mm from the top edge and attach the loop bar to the beam. With a pencil, circle the outline along which we will make a recess to secure the loop. Do the same markup for the bottom loop.
Using a chisel, chisel and hammer, remove the excess wood to get the desired groove.
Try on the loop, if everything is fine, fasten it into the seat.
We will do the same manipulations with the canvas.
After mounting with a loop, we lay the canvas inside the door frame.
We check the presence of the necessary gaps, we put cardboard so that the canvas does not move during the installation of the block in the opening.

The most crucial moment comes - the installation of the kit in the doorway.

Installing the box in the doorway

At this stage, you need to call an assistant.

The stage of installing the box in the interior opening is the most difficult moment. Be patient, attentive, careful.

The door block is quite heavy, and the work must be done with maximum precision.

Raise the product to a vertical position and transfer to the opening.
Install in the opening, sliding to the extreme point of the wall. If the width of the box timber is not sufficient to cover the entire wall, a door extensions at this stage.
Using any convenient level, we expose the door block in the opening. For fixing, take wedges, which, after fixing the box to the walls, can be removed.
Place spacers on all sides, adjusting the level of vertical and horizontal planes.
After making sure that the door block is installed correctly, fix the frame with self-tapping screws to the wall. To do this, drill holes in the uprights and the wall. metal box it is better to fix on anchors in pre-installed dowels.
It is also necessary to fix the horizontal bar. It is enough to use two self-tapping screws for each rack. They securely pull the door frame to the walls.
Check the operation of the door leaf. It should not touch any of the pillars.
Let's move on to the lock on the door. We have already talked about how to do this in one of our articles.
Coming final stage installation of a door frame with a leaf - foaming of all gaps. Don't rush to squeeze a large number of foam. It has the property of swelling, which can lead to deformation of the rack elements. Do this in small portions, moving from bottom to top. The foam should fill all the gaps, providing thermal and noise insulation for any door. Before blowing the foam, cover the racks of the box with masking tape to avoid damaging the surface.
After drying, remove the protruding foam with a clerical knife.
It remains to install.

The installation of the door block is now complete. You can do all the work with your own hands, because it is not difficult, having such a guide.

How much can you save on self-installation of any door?

Not all door manufacturers or sellers offer free installation. The price of installing a door frame and leaf sometimes reaches high levels. On average, the prices for the services of specialists vary depending on the cost of the goods and the complexity of the work. The figure can reach half the price of a door unit. The cheapest door in a complete set will cost at least 6,000 rubles. So, the installation will be within 3000 rubles. We took the average value for the service of installers. The price can be high. Therefore, the savings when installing a door frame with your own hands are significant. And if not one door is bought, but all? You can calculate the result yourself.

double door it is installed similarly to a single-leaf, requiring only more time and hanging two canvases.

There are no difficulties. Using the installation example discussed in our article, you can install an MDF door frame with your own hands. It usually corresponds to the size of the selected product and problems should not arise.

Door trims are made of natural wood, laminated MDF or plastic. Each material has its advantages and disadvantages; a specific type of platband should be selected taking into account the specific installation site, the general interior of the room and your own preferences. In terms of price, they differ slightly, but the difference is not so significant that it has a decisive influence during the choice.

There are several ways to fasten the casing, depending on the angle of the connection.

Docking with cutting ends at an angle of 45 °

The most common and most versatile way. Allows you to completely hide the places of cuts, looks beautiful.

Docking with cutting ends at an angle of 90 °

A very simple method, it has two options: the open ends of the cutting are located vertically or the visible ends of the cutting are located horizontally.

Docking with cutting ends at 90°, elongated horizontal trim with imitation of a bridge

It is rarely used and only to create exclusive interiors.

The platbands can be fixed with special thin nails with a reduced head diameter or without it. Professionals work with a pneumatic gun, but you should not buy it for one bath. The length of the nails is within two centimeters.

The second way of fastening platbands is with the help of liquid glue. Both methods are equivalent from the point of view of builders, each can be used with the same quality of installation of platbands. A small advantage of using glue is that there are no visible fixation points. But the heads of carnations can also be drowned a little and painted over with a building marker of the appropriate color.

Cash prices

architraves

Trim cutting

Cutting moldings is better than a special trimming electric saw. The saw table is installed under different angles, the cut is perfectly even, there are no chips and roughness. Such a saw is relatively inexpensive, and during the construction of a bath it will always come in handy. If necessary, it can be detached from the metal table and used as a portable tool– very convenient for any construction site.

Electric miter saw - photo

Important. When trimming the trim, check the serviceability of the tool.

The saw must be sharp and even, even the slightest beating of the bearings of the electric saw is excluded. Firmly press the side edges of the moldings to the persistent surfaces of fixtures or tools, the presence of even the slightest gaps will create you big problems during installation.

No desire to buy it? Then you should buy a factory miter box or make it yourself. The miter box allows trimming moldings at an angle of 90°, 45° or 30°.

You should not buy a Chinese low-quality miter box. They make it from recycled polyethylene, and during cooling it shrinks a lot, the position of the thrust planes changes. We advise you to check the device before starting work. Saw off several blanks in various positions, join them together with cuts and check the angles.

Let us consider in more detail how to install both plastic and wooden or MDF architraves.

Prices for a hacksaw under the miter box

hacksaw under the miter box

Installation of wooden or MDF platbands with sawed ends at an angle of 45 °

Step 1. Preparing the surface of the doorway and trim

With a construction knife, carefully cut off the protruding mounting foam, do not damage the door frame during cutting. Be especially careful when working near the visible corners of a box pasted over with a self-adhesive polyethylene film.

Check the position of the plane of the wall and the box. Take a flat rail and check the position of the wall and frame around the entire perimeter of the doorway. If there are problems, then you will have to solve them during the installation of the platbands. How this is done, we will describe below. The ends of the lower part of the platbands must be cut off - during transportation or long-term storage they could be damaged.

For one door you will need four long and two short architraves. You need to saw off with a margin of length 3 ÷ 4 centimeters.

Step 2. Mark the position of the architraves

The door frame has rounded corners, a right angle only from the extension side. We recommend placing the platbands in such a way that the rounding does not close. From the side of the extension, respectively, the corners of the casing must exactly match the corners of the extension.

The platband should not interfere with the opening and closing of the door

Important point! The platband should not interfere with work door hinges and "response" door lock. Attach the trim to the door frame and make marks on the top of the box with a thin pencil. They will be located 2÷3 mm above the joint angle of the door frame. These marks indicate the height of the long vertical architraves and the width of the short horizontal architraves at the bottom corners of the joint.

On the side of the extension, we recommend placing the marks on the architraves 1÷2 mm below the corner, this will allow them to completely cover the irregularities or damage to the surfaces of the extensions. If the extensions are in good condition, then you can put the platbands flush with them.

Do the markup slowly

Step 3. Attach vertical platbands to the marks and make marks on them at a certain height

Step 4: Cut the vertical architraves at a 45° angle

Don't give a big pitch cutting tool, the cut should be as even and clean as possible. When cutting, take into account the width of the cut, in some saws it can be up to three millimeters. Depart from the mark made by the width of the cut.

Step 5. Start nailing the prepared platbands

First, two vertical ones, and then a horizontal one.

Stud caps can be sunk a little and sealed with acrylic sealant to match the color. The same sealant can be used to seal gaps around the entire perimeter of the installed trim and door frame and in the upper corners of the cuts.

Important. The use of sealant to seal cracks indicates a low qualification of the performer. If you do not have enough experience, then it is better to practice a little with gashes than to eliminate the marriage later. Nail the first platbands from the inconspicuous side of the doors, get some practice.

There may be problems due to the fault of the builders of the bath, we will consider some of the ways to eliminate them. Most often, the plane of the wall does not lie in line with the plane of the door frame. The door frame is either too recessed, or vice versa, protrudes too much, or even slanted. In this regard, the platbands cannot fit snugly against the doorway, large gaps appear in the corners of the joint, regardless of how accurately the cuts are made.

There are several ways to solve such rather unpleasant problems.

Wood sealant prices

sealant for wood

Aligning the plane of the casing with the wall

First way. The simplest, but, unfortunately, not always applicable. With it, you can correct the non-parallelism of the planes of the wall and the box within 2 ÷ 3 millimeters. How it's done?

Step	Description
Step 1.	Put the platband in the intended place, firmly press it to the box. It will move away from the plane of the wall a little, estimate the width of the gap between it and the wall. If it is within 2 ÷ 3 mm, then the gap at the junction is removed without the need for construction work.
Step 2	On the working table of the saw or miter box, place a lining of the same thickness as the size of the gap. The lining should be narrow, not the entire width of the casing, only a few millimeters, it should only slightly raise one side of it during washing down.
Step 3	Firmly press the casing to the desktop in this position, the lower plane of the casing on the side of the stop should slightly rise above the table. Carefully cut off the butt at the desired position. The cut end should have 45° to the axis and be with a slight slope to the surface. Now, in the “broken” position, the junction of the two platbands in the places washed down will be tight, you will not have to close the gaps with acrylic sealant.

Way two. Wooden architraves due to violation of manufacturing technology may have uneven surfaces or warping. Of course, ideally, their quality should be checked at the time of purchase. If the marriage was discovered already in the process of installing the platbands, then warping is easily eliminated. Position the vertical and horizontal architraves so that the notches lie flat. Drive a carnation into the butt, it will fix them in correct position and not let it move.

The door frame is too recessed into the wall. We'll have to chisel the wall - the work is dusty, noisy and dirty. Place the casing against the box and draw a line on the wall. Bulgarian with diamond disc or with a saw (depending on the wall material) cut a line along the wall. And then you need to choose a niche for the casing. You can do this with a grinder, a chisel, etc. Constantly check the depth of the groove. If in some places the niche turned out to be too deep, close the recess with plaster or cement mortar and immediately put the casing in the desired depth position for a few seconds, this will help you make a niche more accurately. So you need to go around the entire door around the perimeter.
If you have cash from natural wood and has a decent thickness, you can slightly remove its reverse side with a planer. Work very carefully, do not rush, it will be impossible to correct the mistake.

Video - How to fix a platband without nails

Video - Do-it-yourself installation of platbands on interior doors

Installation of architraves with cutting ends at an angle of 90 °

Cutting the ends of the trim at an angle is rare; such a door does not look very nice. This can only be done by completely inexperienced craftsmen. It is better to make open ends of the cuts on top of the vertical trim, in this place the incised end is hardly noticeable.

Sections must be sanded with fine sandpaper. Sanding should be done carefully so as not to damage the laminate on the front surface of the casing. Places of cuts need to be painted over with carpentry markers under the main color. All other operations, except for the angle of washing down the ends, do not differ from those described above.

During the fastening of the platbands with liquid glue, they should be kept in the desired position for several minutes. Carefully monitor the accuracy of the connection at the joints. Irregularities in the wall or problems with the quality of the architraves can widen the gap. To prevent this from happening, first fix the joint angle with a nail or place linings under it, taking into account the size of the gap between the casing and the wall. Only after that you can press the casing to the entire surface and wait for the liquid glue to cool.

Nail the first nail in the middle of the casing, this will allow you to turn it a little for a tight connection in the corners of the gash. Only after the corners on all sides of the door have laid down as they should, you can drive in nails to fix them. The distance between the nails is approximately 15÷20 centimeters. You need to check the distance by lightly tapping on the casing. You will immediately find out in which places there is a loose fit of the casing, drive additional carnations into them.

If during hammering the nail did not reach the end and bent - do not pull it out. Gently pinch the rest with pliers, rotate it left/right until it breaks off. Why not take it out? The nail could not be hammered in for a “good” reason beyond your control, which means that the second one will not completely enter this place either. It is much better to immediately hammer in a new one next to it, there will be fewer holes in the platbands.

It is possible to increase the tightness of the platbands across the entire width with polyurethane foam. Apply it with reverse side platbands in a thin strip along the entire length from the side of the wall, allow three to four minutes to partially dry. Otherwise, the foam will not adhere to the surface. Next, arrive the platbands in the recommended way. After the mounting foam has completely dried, carefully cut off the visible part, the gap can be sealed with sealant. Although, if you do not overdo it with foam, then it should not act. During pressing, the ability of the foam to increase volume is significantly reduced.

In conclusion, we give practical advice for working with an air gun. It is designed in such a way that there are air outlets on the side. The piston is constantly lubricated with engine oil, during the exhaust of air it comes out tiny particles. When the studs need to be driven into the end of the platbands, an oily stain from the outgoing air always forms on the white wall. Be sure to place clean paper between the gun and the wall.

If you have cash white color- do not oil the nails, the oil will leave a stain at the entry point of the nail.

Prices for mounting foam

polyurethane foam

Video - Installing MDF or wooden trim

Video - Errors during the installation of platbands, extensions of interior doors

Installation of plastic platbands

In some cases, plastic platbands are difficult to distinguish from natural ones; in terms of their performance, they satisfy most owners. You can choose any color scheme, thickness and width. The kit includes connecting elements for corner sawing, mounting and front profiles.

How to install them?

Step 1. Mark the mounting profile

The mounting profile is plastic product with special protrusions-latches for the front profile. The marking of the mounting profile does not need to be done very accurately, it subsequently closes and becomes invisible. The cuts in the corners of the platbands can be with a distance of several millimeters, the gap does not play a critical role. The distance is taken as described in the above section on installation of MDF and wooden platbands.

Step 2. Cut the blanks of the mounting profile

You will need four long vertical and two short horizontal ones. Cut at a 45° angle. You can use an electric saw for trimming, a device for cutting at an angle (miter box) or an ordinary grinder with a thin disk for metal. The mounting profile can be shorter than the front one by 5 ÷ 10 millimeters. This makes sizing easier.

Step 3 Fix the mounting profile to the wall

Self-tapping screws are used for fastening.

Very important. The mounting part of the platband cannot always be referred to as a box, especially a thin Chinese one, and its installation on the wall requires the ideal quality of the latter. The best option– the walls are made of drywall, sheet plywood or OSB boards. Plaster is the worst option. If the quality of the plastering "wants the best", then you will have to trim the strip near the door frame with a spatula. Otherwise, the profile will bend in waves during pulling, and this is unacceptable.

The mounting profile is fixed with self-tapping screws in special seats. If you need to screw in the screws more often - not a problem. Drill a small entry hole in the plastic and screw in the screws. That's what some masters say. We advise you not to drill any special holes, the self-tapping screw is already screwed in perfectly. You need to start by fixing the center of the profile, the screws are screwed along the edges only after checking the position and correcting errors.

Step 4. Dimension the front profile, taking into account the thickness of the connecting elements of the corner cuts

In most cases, their thickness does not exceed two to three millimeters. But there is also much wider, it all depends on the manufacturer of the platbands. Dimensions are taken from the floor to the corner of the box.

Step 5. Saw off two vertical trims at an angle, fix them in the mounting profile

One of the advantages of plastic platbands is that the front profile can be shifted in the mounting and in this way precisely adjust its position. It is advisable to first install only vertical platbands.

Step 6. Insert the connecting profiles into the sawn ends of the front vertical platbands

File one end of the horizontal front profile and insert it into the mounting profile. In this position, measure the place of sawing off the second end. Immediately keep in mind the thickness of the connecting profile.

Step 7: Cut the face profile at a 45° angle and insert it into place

In the hidden cavities of plastic platbands, you can mount electrical, telephone or Internet cables. Thanks to the corner fittings, the joints always turn out very neat, it is not necessary to use sealant to eliminate gaps.

It is better not to install plastic platbands on walls sheathed with clapboard. If you really want to, then you need to prepare ahead of time for this. Before installing the door frame around the perimeter of the doorway should be nailed wooden lath approximately 0.5 ÷ 1.0 cm thick. It must be carefully nailed into the convex places of the lining profile. Make sure that the slats do not bend in waves. During the installation of the door frame, it must be equal to the level of the rails. On the opposite side of the door frame, the alignment is done by an extension.

We do not recommend purchasing factory-made boxes for a bath, they are not very durable, during prolonged contact with water they can completely lose their bearing capacity. In addition, the factory boxes are very narrow, in most cases you need to install additional trims. Much cheaper to buy in store door leafs It's hard to make them on your own. And you can make the boxes yourself, while you immediately choose the desired width, make them stronger and more durable.

Video - Do-it-yourself installation of plastic platbands

They are able to significantly decorate the interior of the room, they can be made both from natural wood (the most expensive option), and from plastic or MDF. Plastic decorative platbands have a complete set of additional elements that simplify the installation process. With wooden ones you have to tinker.

Decorative platbands - photo

Their installation begins with washing down the upper corners. When taking measurements, you need to keep in mind not only the position of the trim in relation to the door frame, but also the combination of patterns. Some platbands have special technological places to facilitate the combination of patterns, and some need to be selected very carefully. Especially a lot of problems can arise during the docking of the upper and side trim. If you have little experience with such complex work, - better not take it. Do not waste time and money in vain.

Video - Installing decorative trim

The platband is a door element that performs a decorative function, closing the seam between the doorway and the frame. depends on the quality of its installation. appearance doors, so you need to approach this process responsibly.

Types of platbands

Platbands differ from each other depending on the material from which they are made. They can be made from:

tree;
plastic;
metal.

Each of the materials used has its own characteristics. Metal platbands are made of aluminum or steel.

Plastics are a great choice. color solutions. They are cheap, their installation is carried out using liquid nails. Plastic cashing is flexible, so it is successfully used on uneven walls.

Platbands from MDF have their own nuances when fastening. When using nails, blind holes must be made under them so as not to damage the material during the nailing process.

The form of platbands can be:

flat;
curly;
rounded.

Flat and rounded can be purchased at any store. Figured, as a rule, are made to order.

Depending on the method of installation, the following types are distinguished:

Mounting methods

Do-it-yourself fastening of platbands can be done in two ways:

How to install platbands depends on their type and material of manufacture. So, telescopic fasten only on liquid nails. You can install the rest in one way or another.

Mounting Features

Installation of cashing is carried out after installing the door and finishing the walls of the room, but before installing the plinth. If the box is placed correctly and is flush with the wall, then it will not be difficult to nail the trim with your own hands.

If cashing needs to be fastened on both sides of the door, then start with the one where the hinges are. In this case, when fastening, one feature must be taken into account. It is not possible to mount the platband flush with the door frame, because the fittings will interfere. Therefore, a few millimeters are indented from the corner of the door frame. This distance is maintained when attaching the horizontal and second vertical strips. The installation of platbands on the door on the reverse side is carried out without this indent.

Docking platbands

The vertical and horizontal planks must fit properly together to be attractive. doorway. Platbands can be fastened by docking them together at an angle of 90 or 45 degrees.

Washed down at a 90 degree angle is used when the form of cashing interior doors flat, that is, it is a rectangle in the cut. In this case, the docking seams will be located horizontally or vertically, it does not matter. After sawing, the sections are processed acrylic paint or varnish. An angle of 90 degrees is also suitable for decorating with a capital - decorative element giving a luxurious look to the door.

An angle of 45 degrees is used when mounting figured and rounded platbands. It ensures perfect joining of horizontal and vertical strips. You can make such an angle using a miter box, a jigsaw or an ordinary hacksaw, drawing a cut line.

Tools for the job

Installation of platbands is carried out using the following tools:

pencil, square;
roulette;
miter box;
hammer, nails.

Instead of a miter box, a jigsaw or a hacksaw is quite suitable.

Mounting process

Do-it-yourself installation of platbands begins with measurements. It is necessary to correctly and accurately measure the height of the opening. This can be done with a tape measure, after which you transfer the measurement to the bar or attach the cash to the opening and, in fact, mark the place where you want to make the inside of the corner washed down. outside corner is defined as follows. The width of the platband is added to the inner side and a place is marked on its outer side.

Do the same with the second vertical bar. Do not blindly transfer the opening height values obtained when measuring the first casing. The distance from the floor to the top of the opening may vary.

In order to correctly mark the horizontal bar with your own hands, the vertical ones are baited on two carnations: one is nailed near the floor, and the second - at a distance of a meter from the first. The vertical bar is pre-prepared by making it washed down at 45 degrees on one side. It is applied to the installation site, leading behind a vertical bar where there is no saw cut and, in fact, mark the angle that needs to be made.

After marking and sawing the corners of the plank, you need to nail it with nails or glue it around the perimeter of the doorway. A fastening step of 15-20 centimeters is used for doors that are often used. For balcony or pantry doors, 50 centimeters between the carnations will be enough.

Elimination of defects

If this is your first time doing the installation of platbands with your own hands, then not everything can be perfect. The cracks formed as a result of an incorrect gash can be hidden with wood putty or a wax corrector, choosing the desired color.

Telescopic architraves

Telescopic architraves are installed on interior doors with the help of special slots and grooves, which are provided at the manufacturing stage. Their peculiarity lies in the fact that fastening is possible only on an ideal flat surface. Otherwise, gaps will be noticeable, and the appearance of the doorway will leave much to be desired.

Do-it-yourself installation of telescopic architraves is possible on doors with different opening widths. This is achieved due to the fact that the slot can be inserted into the groove not completely if the opening is larger than provided standard size. If it is smaller, then the protrusion can be filed.

For openings with very thick walls, the width of the uncovered area is hidden using telescopic extensions.

Do-it-yourself installation of platbands on interior doors is not a difficult process. Knowing the installation process and types of cashing, you can choose suitable option in each specific case.