How to insulate an attic roof. Why is it necessary to insulate the attic roof? Prices for expanded polystyrene

Many owners of old houses are thinking about expanding their living space by adding an attic. However, they immediately wonder what to do if the roof is already covered, but the attic still needs to be insulated. In this case, the decision to carry out insulation work from the inside comes to the rescue.

Peculiarities

The process of insulating an attic from the inside cannot be called easy. To do this, you need to know the specifics of the roof structure, as well as understand whether your existing roof is suitable for insulation. Indeed, not every attic can be converted into an attic space, especially if the roof is already covered.

There are three situations in which the roof can be constructed:

• There is only a ventilation gap between the rafters and the sheathing. In this case, the roof is considered completely unsuitable for insulation. You will have to completely disassemble the roof structure to insulate it.
• Between the sheathing and the rafters is laid polyethylene film, acting as a vapor barrier. Such solutions can be considered optimal, and the roof can be considered fully prepared for subsequent insulation work.
• A diffusion membrane is laid between the rafters and the sheathing. Option similar to the previous one. The presence of a waterproofing layer is evidence that the roof is prepared for insulation from the inside.

Thus, the most important feature is the preparedness of the roof for further insulation.

Insulation materials

Thermal insulation of the roof of a private house, dacha, cottage can be done using different means. There is also liquid materials, and elastic, and even those that have a relatively high density.

Before you start making your choice, be sure to pay attention to the roof structure. It often happens that not every material is universal, so it is better to be safe. The simplest example– insulation of gable and sloping roofs: if for simple gable construction Almost any insulation is suitable, but not all are suitable for a broken line.

If you don't consider liquid insulation, then the rest are sold in two forms - in slabs and in rolls. As you might guess, the slabs contain dense insulation, in rolls – fibrous.

It should be noted that Not all options available on the market are suitable for insulation from the inside.. This is due to the fact that it is much more difficult to insulate the attic from the inside due to the existing rafters. This increases the need to level cold bridges.

Materials should be considered for internal thermal insulation in details.

Styrofoam

Ordinary polystyrene foam is one of the cheapest materials. It is sold in ready-made slabs, which makes it easy to use. Despite the fact that polystyrene foam is a budget thermal insulation solution, it has many advantages.

So, polystyrene foam is not hygroscopic - it absolutely does not absorb water and moisture. To increase water-repellent characteristics, it is enough to treat it special means , which will clog the pores on the surface, and water will simply flow down the foam boards.

It should also be borne in mind that the foam has very low weight due to the presence large quantity voids between the granules and its components. This makes it possible to handle the insulation work alone. Lightness has the further advantage of easing the load on the roof structure.

Polystyrene foam does not conduct heat well, as a result of which we can safely say that it perfectly insulates the attic. The ease of working with it is another significant advantage of the material: cutting the material, cutting out pieces the right size, you can use an ordinary stationery knife.

However, there are also some disadvantages. Firstly, the foam does not “breathe” at all, which can cause condensation to form. Secondly, polystyrene foam is susceptible to damage by pests, in particular rodents. Third, cannot be decorated with polystyrene foam wooden floors, since over time the wood will shrink and gaps will appear between the foam boards.

How to insulate an attic with polystyrene foam is described in the following video.

Penoizol

Penoizol, or urea-formaldehyde foam, is a liquid version of polystyrene foam. The insulating solution is prepared immediately before use. Its difference from many other installation compositions, for example, polyurethane foam, is that during the hardening process it does not expand, maintaining its original appearance and condition.

The mass resembles white foam, similar in appearance to shaving foam.

Liquid foam It is often used to insulate roofs and attics during the construction stage, but can also be used after the roof has been laid. Among other things, it can be used to additionally insulate the walls and floor of the attic.

The vapor permeability of the material, like that of its dense counterpart, is almost zero, which makes it imperative to take care of adequate roof ventilation. However, the material does not conduct heat, so it copes with its main function – thermal insulation – perfectly. So if you do all the work properly, thermal insulation using foam insulation will be a worthy and budget solution.

Extruded polystyrene foam or penoplex

Despite the fact that polystyrene foam and expanded polystyrene belong to the same group, the second is more practical. This is largely due to the specifics of installation. So, polystyrene foam covers the rafters, which results in better tightness. Expanded polystyrene boards are easily fixed to each other using glue. Due to its low weight, installation can be done independently.

The material has a long service life, but it does not rot and is not attacked by rodents. The only serious drawback is the flammability of the material. You will have to take care of additional insulation of the electrical wiring, because one spark can lead to a strong fire.

If no communications are planned for the attic, expanded polystyrene will be an excellent choice, especially considering that it can be covered with any finishing material. It is also compatible with wood, metal, and any roofing coverings.

Minvata

Mineral wool often acts as an alternative to penoplex. This material is a roll material, which is due to the ease of installation of heat insulators supplied in this way. Mineral wool has a fibrous structure, which fundamentally affects some of its properties.

So, mineral wool is an elastic material that is attached between the rafters. In this case, additional fastenings are not required, it is enough to just cut the wool slabs 2-3 cm wider than the portal into which the insulation will be inserted.

Rodents do not attack cotton wool, so you don’t have to worry about the integrity of the insulating layer. Mineral wool, however, belongs to the category of environmentally friendly insulation. Among other things, it guarantees excellent thermal insulation, despite the fact that it does not absorb moisture, and even if it gets wet, it will dry in record time. It is also better to use fibrous material if it is necessary to additionally soundproof the attic from surrounding street noise.

Read more about insulating the attic with mineral wool in the next video.

Glass wool

Glass wool is one of the varieties of mineral wool, but the difference is obvious. First of all, it is worth noting that the materials are made from different fibers. Fiberglass is used here. Thanks to this, the material is more elastic and durable. In addition, glass wool has better noise-absorbing characteristics. At the same time, it is hydrophobic - it absorbs moisture well, but dries poorly, as a result of which it quickly loses its properties when wet. operational properties.

Many are afraid that the use of glass wool for thermal insulation purposes within a living space will lead to harmful consequences. Actually this is not true. If you do everything correctly Finishing work, then no harm will be caused to health. On the contrary, glass wool is even safer than penoplex because it does not burn.

However, the material requires care when laying it. It will be necessary to take all safety measures, protecting the organs of vision, respiratory tract and skin from glass dust.

Stone wool

Among all insulating wools, stone wool is more expensive than its analogues, and all thanks to its special properties. Compared to others, it itself is safe and practically devoid of the disadvantages inherent in other samples. It is the most environmentally friendly of all, it is not afraid of elevated temperatures, since it does not ignite, and also does not deform under the influence of heat.

Stone wool perfectly blocks all extraneous sounds, while its sound-absorbing characteristics are an order of magnitude higher than those of other wools. Another advantage is the good vapor permeability of the material. It “breathes”, so condensation cannot form on it.

Stone wool can last for a long time. Such good performance properties are due not only to the strength properties of the material, but also to its ability to resist mechanical stress. Even if you squeeze it, it does not deform.

Cotton wool is sold in the form of soft slabs that can be easily cut into desired formats if necessary. The only existing drawback is the high price, but the material is worth the money.

Ecowool

Ecowool is very different from other wool in the form of sale. If other analogues are supplied in rolls or slabs, then ecowool is first crushed and then applied by spreading the material using special equipment. It is believed that this way it will better seal all existing cracks, forming a monolithic insulating coating.

There are two disadvantages here. Firstly, you need to apply ecowool using special tools. Secondly, the cost of the material cannot be called affordable either.

Polyurethane foam

Foamed polyurethane foam also needs to be applied using special devices, which are quite expensive.

To avoid unprofitable purchase expenses, it is easier to lease equipment - rent it.

The use of equipment and the application technology itself are quite complex, so when working with the material it is necessary to have at least some experience and knowledge on this issue.

Polyurethane foam is most similar to polyurethane foam, since it has a similar operating principle. It expands in the same way when it hardens, completely closing all the cracks and gaps through which cold wind can penetrate or precious heat can escape. After hardening, the material becomes monolithic and smooth. This feature indicates that it does not absorb moisture, so you can do without the construction of additional hydro- and vapor barrier layers.

All this makes polyurethane foam an ideal choice, regardless of what material the roofing and ceilings are made of. The optimal solution when working with it is to invite a team of specialists who will complete the installation in a few hours using their own equipment, doing everything in compliance with technology.

Penofol

Penofol is the only foil insulation of its kind. It is produced in the form of slabs of polyethylene foam, coated with an aluminum layer on one or both sides. Aluminum reflects heat, returning it back into the room, so heat loss is kept to a minimum.

However, it is important to ensure that when laying, the foil side is facing inward and not outward.

Penofol is absolutely safe for humans and animals, although it is not a natural material. Thanks to the aluminum coating, it does not conduct heat, which gives grounds to assert the excellent thermal insulation properties of the material. Among other things, it may not be necessary to make a vapor barrier for this material, since correct installation it does an excellent job of vapor barrier itself thanks to its special texture.

If you plan to use the attic for permanent residence, then by choosing penofol, you will not regret it.

Preparing the premises

Having decided to insulate the attic from the inside, you first need to properly prepare the room itself for work. Keep in mind that not every attic is suitable for insulation. Check whether the ceiling height is 2.5 m in more than 50% of the entire attic area. If not, then there’s no point in insulating it – you won’t be able to live here anyway.

Next, remove all existing sheathing material, exposing the rafters. The insulation will be installed either on top of them or between them. Check the condition of the roof, as well as the presence of vapor and waterproofing layers. Keep in mind that a roof with leaks must first be corrected, and only after that can you proceed to insulation work.

It is important that they are in good condition and have no cracks other than for ventilation.

Vapor barrier

Creating an attic floor for winter accommodation, especially if the winters in your area are harsh, the first step is to check for a vapor barrier. As a rule, it is done immediately when the roof is installed, even if they do not plan to use the space under it as a additional room. If there is no vapor barrier, then the roof will have to be redone from the outside, dismantling roofing materials . Unfortunately, it is impossible to lay a vapor barrier layer from the inside, because it must lie between the rafters and the counter-lattice.

Can be used to create a vapor barrier various materials. All of them have their advantages and disadvantages, as well as specific combinations with insulating materials. All this must be kept in mind when moving on to insulation work, so it makes sense to dwell on vapor barrier materials in more detail.

In addition, this will help you make a choice if the roof of your house does not yet have a vapor barrier layer.

Polyethylene film

Despite the cheapness of the material, many builders strongly do not recommend using it. This is due to the fact that it is unsuitable for creating a vapor barrier layer in Russian realities. The material does not “breathe” at all: it does not let in not only moisture, but also air, and this creates problems with circulation and, accordingly, the greenhouse effect. Thus, condensate cannot evaporate and, flowing down, ends up on the thermal insulation.

Therefore, if your home has a vapor barrier made using polyethylene film, avoid purchasing water-absorbing insulation materials, such as glass wool.

Over time, the film tends to deteriorate and crack, so after a short period of time you will still have to completely disassemble everything in order to replace the fragile material that has served its purpose.

Glassine

Glassine is suitable for both steam and waterproofing, which is why it has received universal recognition. However, we will have to act in two directions here. Firstly, a layer of glassine will need to be laid between the roof and the counter-lattice, and secondly, on the insulation from the side of the room. If all work is done correctly, this will guarantee reliable protection and an optimal microclimate in the attic. Above, between roofing covering and the counter-lattice should be laid with a double layer of glassine. Only then can the optimal effect be achieved.

Glassine is mostly needed to protect the insulation from moisture, so any material can be chosen as an insulation material. Try to choose options that do not deform under the influence of temperature changes, and are also not susceptible to rodent attacks. Both cotton wool and penoplex options are perfect.

Ruberoid

Ruberoid has been used as a vapor barrier since the times of the USSR, so in old houses you can find just such material between the roof and rafters. Nevertheless, If possible, such a layer will need to be dismantled. This is due to the fact that roofing felt is a rotting material, and in accordance with the standards it cannot be used for hydro- and vapor barrier in buildings with long term operation.

If you decide to leave the roofing material, then you should not expect good vapor barrier qualities from it. For this it is better to lay an additional layer of special vapor barrier material, at least the same plastic film.

It is worth keeping in mind that on roofing material with inside Condensation may accumulate, which will lead to wet insulation. So, if the insulation is temporary (for example, it is carried out in the winter, and in the spring it is planned to redo everything), then foam plastic can also be combined with roofing felt.

Izospan

The material isospan consists of polypropylene. It is one of the most recommended for the construction of vapor barriers due to the fact that it was developed only for these purposes.

Izospan collects condensation and subsequently prevents it from getting on the insulation. The double-sided texture of the material is responsible for this. On one side it is smooth, and on the other it is a little rough. On the rough side, condensate droplets are retained and evaporate. With the help of isospan, not only the roof, but also the walls of the attic are vapor-insulated.

Depending on the properties of isospan, the labeling varies. The most expensive, but also materials with energy saving effect FB, FS, FD, FX are considered effective. They have a foil coating that reflects heat back into the room, thereby reducing heat loss to almost nothing. At the same time, the special texture still prevents condensation from rolling off and damaging the insulation.

Waterproofing membrane

You should not attribute to waterproofing membranes all the same properties that are inherent in specialized vapor barrier films. Indeed, both of them collect and evaporate condensate, but the main task of waterproofing membranes is to protect the house from moisture, and not from steam. In addition, waterproofing membranes have a wider range of applications: from insulating attics and basements to protecting swimming pools.

Waterproofing membranes are available in different types. There are diffusion, super-diffusion, and also anti-condensation, which is more suitable than others for a vapor barrier role. If you find one of these membranes after disassembling the cladding material, consider yourself very lucky.

You can lay any insulation without fear that it will get wet and quickly lose its quality. In addition, the microclimate in the attic will be excellent.

Penofol

Penofol is both an insulating and vapor barrier material. However, it can only be laid when a waterproofing membrane is found between the roof and rafters.

The reflective foil surface itself will collect condensation and help it evaporate, but the second “bare” side should be well protected from moisture. Only in this case will the variety cope with both steam and thermal insulation.

Material consumption

The calculation of the material is made at the stage of inspecting the roof for damage. Here it is important to take into account the pitch between the rafters and the distance between the vapor barrier and the internal space. The number and thickness of the slabs depends on the internal space: whether the thermal insulation will be laid in one layer or in several. The size of the slabs depends on the distance between the rafters.

Please note that if the pitch between the rafters is more than 60 cm, then you will need to prepare additional sheathing yourself to make fixing the thermal insulation possible.

As for sprayed insulation, in this case it will be necessary to calculate the volume. You will first need to clarify such data as the expected thickness of the thermal insulation layer, the perimeter of the rooms and the height of the walls, as well as the density of the insulation. We must not forget about the presence of windows and doors. It is best to use a special calculator.

Insulation scheme

Since when insulating an attic, the roof is mainly insulated, it makes sense to consider the layering scheme only for it.

If you start from the outside, the pie will look like this:

• There is roofing material on top that is not touched. Underneath it there is a sheathing and a counter-lattice, which serve as a frame.
• Next comes a layer of hydro- and vapor barrier, which is also the original one.
• A layer of insulation is laid under the waterproofing. Depending on the width of the step between the rafters, additional sheathing can be constructed here.
• A vapor barrier layer is attached to the side of the room, protecting the insulation.
• Finally, finishing is done.

How to insulate with your own hands?

To insulate an attic with your own hands from the inside, you need to keep in mind the plan for placing the layers one after another, and also follow the following step-by-step instructions:

• It is necessary to retreat slightly from the existing waterproofing layer, leaving an air opening. This will allow the insulation to “breathe”.
• After this, the insulation is installed. Depending on the material, it can be laid between the rafters or on them, or sprayed. How something should be handled insulation material, it is written in the instructions for it.
• Next, install a vapor barrier film. If a gap between it and the insulation is possible, then the connection to the walls, ceiling and, in the case of an attic, to the floor should be airtight. Otherwise, condensation will form on the side of the film that faces the insulation, but this should not happen.
• On last stage finishing is done. You can choose from many options, but usually purchase drywall, lining or MDF boards.

• It is better to buy cotton insulation not in rolls, but in mats, so they will not require time to “track”;
• to insulate the floor you need to choose polystyrene foam or other inexpensive material;
• the insulation does not require additional fastening, but if necessary, you can use nails, adhesive tape or a construction stapler for this.

In cases where the roof is already covered with the base material, the attic is insulated from the inside. To equip high-quality and, most importantly, effective thermal insulation for a residential attic space it is possible in several ways.

The differences between them lie mainly in the type of insulation chosen, but otherwise the technology is based on the same rules, briefly described below.

But first, it’s worth dwelling in more detail on the question of what basic and additional advantages are provided by attic insulation. After all, many believe that the thermal insulation of a roof structure has a positive effect only on saving energy resources used for heating premises. However, these are not all the advantages that appear after insulation. mansard roof from the inside.

So, in addition to the fact that the thermal insulation layer can significantly reduce current heating costs in winter, insulating the roof simultaneously provides the following advantages:

• Dew point shift. When attic room not insulated, condensation due to natural humidity and the temperature difference between outside and inside the room occurs directly at finishing. Insulating a residential attic eliminates this problem by shifting the dew point from the cladding to a distance equal to the thickness of the laid layer of thermal insulation.
• Stable all-season microclimate. Since the attic space is, in most cases, a living area, it is important not only to provide warmth in winter, but also to take care of coolness in the sultry heat of summer. This point is especially relevant for roofs that are covered with metal roofing materials - metal tiles or corrugated sheets. An insulated attic automatically avoids this problem, since the thermal insulation layer not only retains heat inside the room in winter, but also does not allow it to pass through from the hot sun roof in summer.
• Noise reduction. Another problem that is especially acute on metal roofs is street noise penetrating into the living attic space. The sounds of falling raindrops, hail, cars passing by and even conversations of passers-by are clearly audible under the “bare” roof. Thermal insulation material absorbs most noise without letting it into the living space.
• Increased service life rafter frame. If you properly insulate the attic roof from the inside, you can protect wooden structures from premature rotting. How to do this is described in the section on the rules for roof insulation.
• Increased service life interior decoration attics. Only due to one dew point shift service life facing materials increases several times. Indeed, for attics, finishing such as lining, imitation logs or timber, which really do not like moisture, is especially popular.

Thus, insulating an attic roof from the inside is a profitable investment that allows you to extend the service life of materials, reduce heat loss and noise levels, and increase the comfort of the room and coolness in the summer.

Choosing a material for insulating an attic roof from the inside

Now it’s worth taking a closer look at the materials that can be used to insulate an attic roof. There are several such products on the modern market, and they are divided into three main categories:

1. Mineral wool.
2. Expanded polystyrene.
3. Polyurethane foams.

The first two categories have varieties that differ in operational and thermal insulation characteristics, so they are worth talking about separately. Polyurethane foam also varies, but the basic parameters for all brands are almost the same.

So, mineral wools are divided into two large groups. The first group is glass wool, that is, mineral wool based on fiberglass. It is made using the same raw materials from which ordinary glass is made, that is, from quartz (the well-known sand). The second group is basalt wool, or so-called stone wool. It is made according to the same principle as the product described above, only instead of quartz, natural rock—most often basalt—is melted and pulled into fiber.

Which is better and which is worse is quite difficult to say, since glass wool is cheaper than its stone counterpart, but is slightly inferior in characteristics. In addition, glass fibers create quite a lot of problems when installing thermal insulation, while basalt wool can be easily handled by hands without gloves and without consequences.

Advantages of mineral wool:

• affordable price;
• high thermal insulation characteristics;
• excellent noise absorption;
• ease of cutting and installation;
• durability;
• unattractive to rodents;
• relatively light weight.

There are also disadvantages, but the most significant of them is the ability to absorb and accumulate moisture. Therefore, when insulating an attic roof from the inside using mineral wool, you need Special attention pay attention to hydro- and vapor barrier (there is information about this below).

Expanded polystyrene is also divided into two main groups. The first group is cheap foam boards. Their main features are low cost, low density and the ability to crumble from the slightest physical impact. This material is worn down by rodents, must be handled with care, and partially absorbs moisture.

A more advanced heat insulator in this category is the so-called extruded polystyrene foam. Unlike cheap foam, it is much denser and has almost zero porosity, which means it is absolutely not susceptible to moisture accumulation. In addition, extruded polystyrene foam is not liked by rodents, it is easier to work with, and it is much more durable than its cheaper counterpart.

It is worth noting that any type of expanded polystyrene absorbs noise much less than even the cheapest mineral wool. Therefore, if, along with insulating the attic roof from the inside, there is a question of sound insulation, then it is better to give preference to fibrous materials.

The last group of heat insulators that can be used to insulate a roof from the inside are polyurethane foams. Despite the rather complex name, this material, or rather its close analogue, is familiar to almost everyone who has encountered construction or repair. The composition of polyurethane foam is similar to conventional polyurethane foam. The principle of its operation is almost the same - after application to the surface, the chemical components interact with oxygen and moisture in the air, expanding many times in volume, and crystallize into a solid, stable mass.

The main advantage of polyurethane foam is its ability to penetrate into the most hard to reach places- cracks, seams, joints, corners - which cannot be achieved when using mineral wool and expanded polystyrene. Due to this, the heat-insulating layer turns out to be monolithic, that is, seamless, and all kinds of cold bridges are eliminated on their own.

Insulating a residential attic with polyurethane foam raises doubts among many, since this material is quite toxic. However, this is only true during its application and crystallization. After the foam has completely hardened and crusted over, it becomes absolutely safe and does not even have any odor.

The serious disadvantages of polyurethane foam, perhaps, include only the complexity of its spraying. For this process, the technology requires the presence of expensive equipment, which does not make much sense to buy in order to insulate the attic roof once. Therefore, if you decide to use polyurethane foam, you will have to turn to specialists for help.

General rules for insulating an attic from the inside

Whatever material is used for insulation pitched roof, there are generally accepted principles that experts adhere to in all common cases. These include the following main points:

• Waterproofing. Any insulation of the roof from the inside, including the attic, cannot be done without arrangement reliable protection from moisture. When the roofing material already exists, waterproofing is laid between it and the future thermal insulation. Its role is usually played by rolled material, which is attached to the rafter legs and rough sheathing. The waterproofing material is laid parallel to the ridge and the Mauerlat, starting from the top. It is imperative that adjacent pieces overlap each other, and the joints are glued together with construction tape.
• Air gap between the roof and waterproofing. To ensure that after laying the heat-insulating material under the attic roof from the inside, moisture does not accumulate above it, this gap is ensured. Air should circulate freely, starting from the skates and ending with the wind bar. As a rule, this gap is ensured when installing any roof at the construction stage - by installing the so-called counter-lattice.
• Vapor barrier. This material must be placed between the thermal insulation and internal lining. Its task is to delay vapors that tend to penetrate the insulation from inside the room. If the insulation of a residential attic is carried out using mineral wool, and the vapor barrier is neglected, the heat insulator will accumulate moisture in the first month and lose its properties.
• An air gap between the finish and the vapor barrier. The situation here is similar to that described above. So that the steam accumulated on the vapor barrier or the back side of the cladding can be removed normally, air circulation is needed. As a rule, the insulation of a residential roof subsequently ends with finishing with panel materials, which are installed on the sheathing. The gap obtained in this way will serve for the free passage of air.

Otherwise, the process of insulating an attic may differ in subtleties due to the type of heat insulator chosen. The main points for the above materials are discussed briefly below. In particular, attention is paid to such issues as: preparation of material, dimensions, laying and fixation.

Insulating the attic roof with mineral wool

The technology for insulating a pitched roof with glass wool or basalt wool is performed in the following sequence:

1. Laying waterproofing.
2. Cutting out the heat insulator. The cotton wool is cut out in strips, the width of which should be 3-4 centimeters greater than the average distance between the rafter supports. This way the material will lie more tightly, and it will be much easier to attach it.
3. Laying mineral wool. The main stage of insulating the attic from the inside. Thermal insulation material is laid end-to-end between the rafters, without overlap.
4. Fixation of cotton wool. It is quite simple to secure the material using knitting wire or nylon threads, which are wound around nails previously hammered into the rafters.
5. Installation of vapor barrier.
6. Finishing.

The process of roof insulation will differ slightly depending on the format in which the insulation is purchased - in rolls or in slabs.

Insulation of a residential attic with foam plastic

Either with the help of budget polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam, insulation of the attic roof is carried out in the following sequence:

1. Laying waterproofing.
2. Cutting out insulation. When cutting insulation, you should remember that cheap polystyrene foam has a much lower density than high-quality extruded polystyrene foam. Therefore, in the first case, its width should correspond to the distance between adjacent rafter supports plus 2-4 millimeters. If it is denser polystyrene foam, then the margin is left no more than 1-2 millimeters.
3. Laying insulation. To insulate a pitched roof with foam plastic, this material is installed at the joint between rafter legs. It is advisable to seal the seams with construction tape that has sufficient adhesive properties.
4. Fixing the insulation. There is no particular need to fasten correctly fitted polystyrene foam, since it will be clamped firmly enough between the rafters without it. For reliability, the material can be fixed with wood screws, onto which wide plastic washers are first placed. You can also secure the roof insulation in the manner described for mineral wool, that is, with knitting wire or nylon thread.
5. Installation of vapor barrier.
6. Finishing.

When insulating an attic with expanded polystyrene, you should remember that this is a fairly fragile material that is prone to chipping if handled carelessly. If cracks occur during the installation process, they are dealt with in the same way as with seams - they are sealed with adhesive tape.

Insulation of the attic with polyurethane foam

The most effective and, at the same time, expensive insulation of the roof from the inside is the application of polyurethane foam.

As mentioned above, this procedure is not affordable for everyone, and it may not always be possible to do it yourself. However, this technology for insulating a pitched roof from the inside has several pleasant advantages that none of the materials described above has:

• absence of cold bridges;
• it is possible to insulate the pitched roof in all hard-to-reach places;
• unattractive to pests;
• non-flammability;
• durability.

In addition to being expensive, insulating an attic with polyurethane foam requires attention to the strength of the rafter frame. The fact is that with a normal thickness of the heat-insulating layer, this material significantly prevails in weight over mineral wool and foam plastics. Therefore, before starting processing, it is necessary to strengthen the frame taking into account the new weight load.

Otherwise, the technology for insulating the roof from the inside using polyurethane foam is not much different from the procedures described above. Waterproofing, vapor barrier and air layers are also installed on their own for normal circulation and removal of accumulated moisture.

If you are interested in more detailed information about insulating a residential roof from the inside, when the main roofing material is already in place, contact our company. To do this, use either the phone number provided or the form feedback with a consultant directly on the site.

Our specialists will be happy to tell you how to decorate the attic roof from the inside with heat insulation, what you will need to take into account, which material is better and how much it will all cost. Consultations and surveyor's visit to the site are free. Ask our specialists for current rates for attic insulation.

The attic floor is often used for housing, so it is necessary to properly insulate it to create comfortable conditions. The technology is similar to similar work in any other room, but the peculiarity is that the attic is separated from the street by gables and roofing, and not by main walls. All surfaces need to be insulated, and since they differ in design, the installation of insulation is carried out differently.

What is the best way to insulate an attic roof?

Usually not on the attic floor load-bearing walls, having high thermal insulation characteristics, therefore the insulation of the roof and gables must be carried out especially carefully and effectively. This is the only way you can feel comfortable and cozy in the attic both in summer and winter.

If we compare the roof of the attic space and the main walls, it is clear that it cannot compete with them in terms of thermal insulation. In addition, the roof cannot withstand heavy loads. All this must be taken into account when choosing insulation.

A properly insulated attic space can significantly increase the living space of the house.

In order to maximize the useful volume of the attic floor, during its construction the following rules must be adhered to:

• to reduce the load on the rafter system, choose lightweight roofing materials; in this case, using natural tiles is not recommended;
• to reduce the layer of roofing cake, modern and effective thermal insulation materials are chosen;
• special attention is paid to organizing ventilation of the roof space, otherwise moisture will accumulate in the room and thermal insulation properties will get worse.

Correctly performed ventilation and waterproofing of the attic roof allows moisture to be removed from under the roof space, which ensures effective thermal insulation and long term services of materials used.

For mansard roof it is necessary to choose lightweight materials

The number of layers required and the thickness of the thermal insulation “pie” depend on the choice of insulation. The attic has its own design features, therefore the insulation must meet the following requirements:

• have low thermal conductivity, experts recommend using materials with a coefficient below 0.05 W/m*K;
• due to possible roof leaks, the insulation must be moisture resistant and lose a minimum of its properties after getting wet;
• have a light weight so as not to overload the rafter system, it depends on the density of the material, which should be in the range of 14–50 kg/m3; it is not recommended to use denser insulation materials;
• must not burn or support combustion;
• because thermal insulation material laid on the roof, this requires that it holds its shape well and does not slip over time, forming gaps;
• withstand significant temperature changes, not be afraid of frost;
• have a long service life.

Insulation materials

The following materials are most often used to insulate an attic roof:

1. Mineral wool. This perfect solution, it does not burn and does not support the combustion process, is easy to install, has low weight, and high thermal insulation characteristics. In addition, mineral wool has an affordable price, therefore it is popular and in demand. Depending on the region where the insulated building is located, the thickness of its layer can be from 150 to 300 mm. The main disadvantage is that this material absorbs moisture well, so it is necessary to make high-quality waterproofing.

   Mineral wool can be in rolls and mats and can be used for roof insulation roll materials more difficult

2. Polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam. This material has low weight, good thermal insulation characteristics, low moisture permeability, but its main disadvantage is a high degree of fire hazard. When laying the foam, it crumbles, so there are gaps that need to be additionally sealed. After some time, unprotected from exposure external factors polystyrene foam begins to gradually deteriorate, so experts do not recommend insulating the attic with this material.

   To insulate the attic, you must use polystyrene foam with a thickness of at least 50 mm; if necessary, it can be laid in several layers

3. Extruded polystyrene foam. This good insulation for carrying out the specified work, since it is durable, not afraid of moisture, does not burn and holds its shape well. A sufficient layer of material is 5–10 cm. Extruded polystyrene foam has low vapor permeability, therefore, to create comfortable conditions in the attic, it is necessary to properly supply and exhaust ventilation, which means additional time and expense. In addition, its price is higher than that of conventional foam.

   When insulating a roof with extruded polystyrene, good ventilation is required

4. Polyurethane foam. Special equipment is used for installation, which allows the material to be applied without cracks or gaps. It has good thermal insulation characteristics, is light weight, does not burn, and is waterproof, but its disadvantage is low vapor permeability. Without organization forced ventilation It will be uncomfortable to be in such a room due to high humidity.

   It will not be possible to carry out the work of polyurethane foam insulation on your own, as professional equipment is required

5. Ecowool. This is the most suitable material for insulating the attic. It is also applied without gaps, penetrates into all cracks and fills them well, is not afraid of moisture, does not burn, is lightweight and has good vapor permeability, and is environmentally friendly. In addition to the fact that the cost of the specified material is high, it will not be possible to insulate the attic with ecowool on your own, so you will have to invite specialists to carry out the specified work.

   Special equipment is used to apply ecowool

6. Foil materials. They not only insulate the room, but also reflect heat. In order for such materials to effectively fulfill their purpose, the mirror layer must be directed into the attic. A gap of about 5 cm is left between the insulation and the vapor barrier.

   Foil insulation is used for hydro, heat and sound insulation

In each case, the selection of the most effective insulation for the attic must be approached individually. When using mineral wool, the thermal insulation “pie” can be disassembled, the condition of the rafters can be assessed and, if necessary, carried out renovation work, and then put everything back in place. If sprayed materials were used, then it will not be possible to inspect the rafters.

What is the best way to insulate an attic roof from the inside?

When choosing materials for insulating the attic from the inside, the climatic conditions in which the house is located are taken into account. Each material has its pros and cons. The most popular and available material, with the help of which the attic is insulated from the inside, is basalt wool. Installation is carried out in several layers, with overlapping seams. Usually a layer 15–20 cm thick is sufficient.

Basalt wool is laid in several layers

Experts often use polyurethane foam. It has high adhesion, so there are no gaps left after application. Polyurethane foam has high thermal insulation characteristics, so it is applied in a smaller layer, unlike other materials, which will require much more. But keep in mind that the cost of this material is high and installation will not be possible without special equipment. Expanded polystyrene boards are also often used; the thickness of the required layer will depend on the density of the material used.

If you are thermally insulating the attic roof from the inside yourself, then it is best to use polystyrene foam, basalt or mineral wool, as they are easy to install. They are often combined: first, mineral wool is laid, and then polystyrene foam boards are laid.

How to properly insulate an attic roof

The technology for carrying out these works is not complicated, especially if the insulation is performed with mineral wool. During installation of thermal insulation, it is necessary to observe personal safety measures: be sure to wear tight and closed clothing, use goggles, gloves and a respirator.

Sequence of work:

1. Preparatory stage. All wooden surfaces are well treated with antiseptics, metal parts are coated with anti-corrosion impregnation.

   Treating wooden roof elements with an antiseptic can significantly increase their service life

2. Fastening waterproofing. A waterproofing film is fixed to the rafters, and a sheathing is mounted on top. The waterproofing material is laid overlapped between the sheathing and the rafters, all seams are sealed with mounting film, for example, “Ondutis BL” or “Ondutis ML”. First, the tape is attached to the canvas located below, this is done 5–6 cm from the edge, then the protective layer is removed from the tape and the top fabric is fixed. The material is laid from the lower slope of the roof. First, the film is secured with a stapler, and then wooden counter slats are installed to create a ventilation gap. You can fasten the slats to the rafters with nails or powerful staples, but it is better to do this with self-tapping screws. Then they move on to installing the insulation.

   Laying of insulating layers is carried out in a certain sequence

3. Installation of insulation. The insulation is laid between the rafters, work starts from the bottom and gradually moves up. In order for the insulation to fit tightly, its size should be slightly larger than the distance between the beams. To fix the insulation, use special anchors or frost-resistant glue. This applies to roll and slab insulation, such as mineral wool, polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam. Ecowool and polyurethane foam are applied using special installation, so there are no unfilled voids left.
4. Attaching the vapor barrier. After laying the last layer of insulation, a vapor barrier is installed. It is attached to wooden sheathing, laid on a heat-insulating layer. Do not pull the vapor barrier membrane too tightly; it should sag by 2–3 cm, this will ensure the presence of a ventilation gap between the thermal insulation and the exterior finish.
5. The final stage is the installation of finishing materials. To do this, a sheathing is made on top of the laid vapor barrier; you can use wooden slats or metallic profile, and already on it with the help special screws fix sheets of plasterboard, plywood, chipboard or lining.

   Installation of drywall is carried out on a metal or wooden sheathing, which is attached to the rafters on top of the vapor barrier

When installing insulation, the slabs must be tightly adjacent to each other, and to eliminate cold bridges, it is recommended to lay a second layer with overlapping joints.

Useful tips for selection and installation various types insulation:

• if mineral wool or fiberglass is used, then to ensure high thermal insulation characteristics their layer should be 15–20 cm;
• basalt wool can withstand temperatures up to 1000 °C, does not absorb moisture, but it is damaged by rodents;
• A 2.5-centimeter layer of polyurethane foam in its thermal insulation characteristics corresponds to an 8-centimeter layer of mineral wool;
• A 15-centimeter layer of ecowool corresponds to a 50-centimeter layer of wood in terms of thermal insulation characteristics;
• to roll or slab material lay tightly between the rafters, its width should exceed the distance between them by 1–2 cm.

Features of installing insulation for an attic roof

During the design of a building with attic floor it is necessary to correctly calculate the distance between the rafters to ensure maximum structural strength. When installing insulation between the rafters, it is necessary to lay the material end-to-end so that there are no gaps, otherwise cold bridges will form.

Only correct styling all elements will allow you to effectively insulate the attic

During the installation of waterproofing, all work is carried out from the lower slope of the roof and the material is laid overlapping. It is recommended to lay another continuous layer on top of the insulation mats, which will completely cover the rafters. Wooden or metal rafters have thermal conductivity higher than insulation and are cold bridges. If they are covered with insulating material, it will be inconvenient to install the finishing elements. To simplify this task, it is necessary to mark the location of the rafters during installation of the last layer of insulation.

If we talk about insulating an attic roof from the inside, then not all materials are convenient to install, roll insulation It’s almost impossible to lay it down properly. To enhance rafter system Various connections are often used, which complicate the installation of the insulating layer.

Video: insulating the attic roof from the inside

Insulation of the attic gable from the outside

When insulating a gable from the outside, most specialists and home craftsmen use extruded polystyrene foam or regular foam. To carry out the above work, you will need scaffolding, since doing everything with a ladder will be difficult, time-consuming and tedious.

The technology for insulating the gable from the outside consists of the following steps:

1. First, the walls are prepared. To do this, they are cleaned of dirt and then primed. The primer will allow the glue to better demonstrate its characteristics. It is recommended to prime in two layers, the second is applied after the first has dried.
2. If you plan to use this finishing material, like siding, then to attach it you need to make a sheathing. She might be from wooden beams or galvanized profiles. The height of the sheathing should correspond to the thickness of the insulation used.

   To make it easier to install polystyrene foam, the sheathing pitch should be equal to the width of the sheet, then the material will lie tightly and waste will be minimal

3. A sheet of foam plastic is smeared with glue in the corners and in the center and pressed for 30–35 seconds to the surface of the pediment.
4. If the foam plastic is to be plastered, it is better to additionally secure it with plastic dowels.

   If the foam plastic is to be plastered, it must be secured with dowels, and if siding is being installed, then fixing it only with glue is sufficient

5. After laying the insulation, a waterproofing film is attached. If the sheathing is wooden, then this is done using a stapler, and it is fixed to the profile using a counter lath, onto which the siding is then attached. To create a gap between the waterproofing and decorative finishing The thickness of the sheathing should be 20–30 mm.
6. At the last stage, the siding is installed or the foam is plastered and then painted.

   To finish the gable, you can use both metal and vinyl siding

Video: insulating the attic gable

It is not difficult to insulate an attic with your own hands; it is enough to have basic knowledge and skillful hands. If we talk about pediment insulation, then when using curtain façade It is better to take a thermal insulation material such as mineral wool. If the facade is wet, it is better to insulate it with polystyrene foam. Only if you follow the developed technologies and correctly carry out the stages of work on insulating the attic, you will get the expected result. If everything is done correctly, then you can use the attic as a living space all year round.

Arranging a living space in place of an attic has long ceased to be a rare occurrence. More and more home owners are interested in how to properly carry out renovations so that life “under the roof” is no less comfortable than in the house itself. Let's consider how to insulate an attic if the roof is already covered, what materials are best suited for this purpose and what nuances you should pay attention to.

An attic is not just a lived-in attic. There are some standards that distinguish these two premises from each other. First of all, the attic roof must have a slope. In addition, the height of the room established by the standard must be at least 2.5 m.

Focusing on attractive appearance, many decide to arrange an attic. But in reality, you have to deal with some nuances, which it is advisable to familiarize yourself with before starting work:

• the materials that were used to build the attic directly determine further heat loss in this room. Therefore, their choice should be approached very responsibly;
• Properly selected engineering solutions, which make it possible to provide all the necessary communications on the upper floor, have no less influence;
• The shape of the roof plays a significant role. It can be single-pitch, gable or broken;
• in order to hide load-bearing elements roofs, you will have to use your imagination;
• the attic can be located not only on the territory of the house, but also extend beyond its boundaries, supported by columns.

Each of these aspects has its own influence on the approach that will be required for high-quality roof insulation. But the main role still belongs to two main materials - heat and water insulation. On the one hand, the space under the roof is in the coldest zone of the building. On the other hand, a strong difference between the temperature inside and outside often causes condensation to appear, which has a destructive effect on materials.

The best materials for do-it-yourself attic insulation

There are many suitable options for internal insulation of the attic. But your choice must be made based on the characteristics of the region of residence, as well as the design features of the specific roof with which you will be working. Let's look at what options exist today and what features are typical for them.

Insulating the attic with polystyrene foam: the pros and cons of the material

Polystyrene foam is one of the most famous insulation materials, which occupies its niche among inexpensive thermal insulation materials. Its price is indeed significantly lower than many others, but this is far from its only advantage:

• polystyrene foam does not absorb moisture at all. If the material is pre-treated with an impregnation specially designed for this purpose, then the water will simply flow down over the surface;
• light weight is another advantage, which greatly facilitates transportation and installation, and also reduces the load on the roof;
• the thermal conductivity of polystyrene foam is very low, so it copes with its direct functions more than fully;
• Styrofoam is easy to cut and attach. This allows you to work with it without any problems even if you lack any experience.

Interesting! In terms of cost, this method can only be compared with insulating the ceiling with expanded clay, although now this method is used less and less.

Based on these characteristics, we can conclude that polystyrene foam is an almost win-win option when it comes to insulating the attic from the inside. But insulating walls with foam plastic from the inside also has disadvantages, and sometimes they turn out to be much more significant than the advantages:

• the vapor permeability of foam is at a very low level. As a result, the room is often stuffy and hot. This also leads to increased humidity, which causes the development of fungi and mold on wooden roofing elements;
• despite its artificial origin, this material is often damaged by rodents;
• Over time, wood tends to shrink, which leads to the formation of gaps between the foam elements. It is impossible to fix this, and the only way to solve the problem is to completely replace the thermal insulation material.

Many believe that the listed disadvantages outweigh the advantages and insulating the attic with polystyrene foam is not justified. But one cannot help but admit that this is one of the most budget options, which causes a minimum of hassle, and if the installation technology is followed, it may well become an alternative to more expensive solutions.

Insulating the attic with polystyrene foam: advantages, disadvantages and features

Extruded polystyrene foam is very similar to polystyrene foam. Their specifications almost identical, with the exception of one significant aspect - installation technology. If polystyrene foam needs to be laid between the rafters, then polystyrene foam is placed on top, which eliminates the risk of cracks and gaps.

Helpful advice! Some manufacturers offer customers slabs with stepped joints, which makes the joints even stronger and more reliable. This fixation of elements together is an ideal option for insulating an attic roof.

Among other advantages of roof insulation with polystyrene foam, one cannot fail to note its low weight, which is perfectly combined with high strength and resistance to external influences. In addition, the service life of this material is quite long, provided that all the technology for insulating the attic with penoplex is followed.

Expanded polystyrene is not prone to rotting or decomposition, which is also important in the case of work on the roof. Any finishing coating can be applied over it, which will give an attractive appearance and provide additional protection.

Working with polystyrene foam yourself is easy: a variety of adhesive mixtures and mastics are suitable for fixing it. And in some cases they even use a construction stapler. So there is no need to purchase any expensive additional elements for installation.

But behind all these positive characteristics, we must not forget about the only, but rather serious drawback of polystyrene foam insulation from the inside of walls and roofs - the material has an increased level of flammability. For owners, this means the need for a more careful and thoughtful installation of all communications, in particular electricity.

Of course, manufacturers are trying to reduce this drawback to a minimum, but today we can say with confidence that this question remains open, and every owner who has chosen to insulate the walls from the inside with penoplex is obliged to take care of their safety.

Interesting! It is no coincidence that this material is most often chosen for insulating balconies. Expanded polystyrene has very low thermal conductivity, and at the same time on the balcony it practically does not have to come into contact with electricity.

Insulating the attic from the inside with mineral wool: a worthy alternative to penoplex

Mineral wool is another thermal insulation material that is used everywhere and is widely known for its properties. It got its name because of its fibrous structure, similar to medical cotton wool. You can buy it in rolls, which makes transportation and installation even more convenient.

Low thermal conductivity goes well with the ability to not absorb moisture. Although, if this happens, the material dries quickly without losing its appearance and technical characteristics.

Mineral wool belongs to the category of environmentally friendly and safe materials, which becomes noticeable even if the upper part of the roof is covered with metal tiles, which are prone to strong heating when exposed to sunlight. In addition, mineral wool also serves as a sound-absorbing barrier, and unlike polystyrene foam, it is not at all of interest to rodents and various insects.

Insulation of the roof from the inside with mineral wool must be done taking into account the fact that this is a fairly elastic material, even despite its soft fibrous structure. It is quite capable of being held between the rafters, provided it is properly fixed.

Helpful advice! In the process of cutting mineral wool for laying sheets between the rafters, it is necessary to leave a margin of approximately 2 cm. This will allow them to be held and not fall out even if there is no additional elements fastenings

Insulating the roof from the inside with glass wool: is it worth using this material?

In terms of its characteristics, glass wool is similar to mineral wool, but in this case, the fibers that make up the material are longer, which generally increases the elasticity of the material. Strength indicators and soundproofing abilities are also slightly higher. But when in contact with moisture, glass wool is inferior to mineral wool, absorbing more water.

The use of glass wool for insulation of residential premises does not lead to any negative consequences for the health of residents. No toxic substances are used in the production process. In addition, glass wool is characterized by low flammability.

When working with the material, safety regulations must be followed to avoid glass wool fibers getting into the air. Its small particles can cause irritation of mucous membranes, and therefore the use of a respirator and safety glasses is a must.

Helpful advice! Sometimes glass wool fibers can cause skin irritation, so it is recommended to wear closed clothing and even gloves when working with it.

Do-it-yourself insulation of an attic roof from the inside using stone wool

Stone wool is the most expensive option among similar materials. But at the same time, it is the safest for human health and, in terms of reliability, significantly exceeds all other options. Here are some of its main advantages:

• The thermal conductivity coefficient of this material is one of the lowest;
• stone wool remains completely environmentally friendly even when heated;
• the layer of this heat insulator is also an excellent noise-absorbing barrier;
• the level of vapor permeability is very high;

• the material practically does not burn;
• no mechanical loads can deform stone wool or affect its characteristics;
• the material has a long service life;
• You can purchase stone wool in the form of slabs, which are easily cut into pieces of the required length and attached to the ceiling surface.

Due to the high cost stone wool They often try to replace it with mineral wool or glass wool. But such a replacement cannot be called complete, since this affects the quality of insulation quite seriously. Many users claim that the price of the material is quite justified, and provided that the installation technology is followed, it very quickly pays off the incurred costs.

Related article:

Types of insulation for roofs and ceilings. Mineral and synthetic insulation for roofs. Insulation of the attic roof.

In addition, it is quite possible to carry out all the work on insulating the attic roof from the inside with your own hands. Video instructions can demonstrate the procedure for carrying out the work, and recommendations from specialists will help you avoid common mistakes.

Insulating the attic with ecowool is one of the most effective ways to combat the cold

Ecowool is a pre-crushed material that is first blown into the cracks, and then, using the same method, a layer is placed between the ceiling and the rafters, using a device specially designed for this. This is an expensive procedure, but it allows you to completely eliminate all risks of drafts and ensure the most effective insulation.

Ecowool consists of 80% completely natural material- paper whose properties are very similar to those characteristic of wood. Given its natural origin, ecowool reduces the level of heat loss no less effectively than other materials.

One of the components that is part of ecowool is borax. According to its characteristics, it is an antiseptic of natural origin, which makes it possible to provide wooden elements roofs effective protection from the formation of fungus and mold.

Ecowool is applied in a thin layer, but at the same time it provides a decent level of not only heat but also sound insulation. The material retains its characteristics even after decades of use. So the not too low cost is the only drawback of this material, which is fully justified by its excellent properties.

Insulating the attic with polyurethane foam: basic technology and material features

Foamed polyurethane foam is the most modern of all the listed methods for insulating an attic. Its main difference is the complete absence of joints or gaps that could become a source of cold air. In addition, the service life of this material is one of the longest, up to 30 years.

Foamed polyurethane foam is not subject to shrinkage, even if wooden roof the house gradually begins to deform over time. Its solid structure completely eliminates the risk of moisture absorption, which eliminates the need to install an additional vapor barrier layer.

But there are also aspects that significantly complicate the process of using polyurethane foam as roof insulation from the inside. This primarily concerns the application procedure, which requires complex and expensive equipment. Its purchase is almost never justified, so it is usually rented.

Another aspect is the complex application technology, which requires certain experience in this field and does not allow beginners to independently cope with the task efficiently.

Helpful advice! Perfect option– invite a team of workers who will come with their own equipment and in just a few hours will do high-quality insulation of the attic of your house.

Insulating the attic from the inside with your own hands using penofol

Penofol is a kind of foamed polyethylene - a technology that occupies its niche among methods modern insulation walls and houses. Along with high sound insulation rates, it is also worth noting the fact that penofol has high-quality coating made of aluminum, which can be applied on one or two sides.

Here are a few more arguments in favor of using penofol for attic insulation:

• the material does not pose any threat to human health or the environment;
• its thermal conductivity is extremely low;
• the closed system of air bubbles characteristic of this material serves as an excellent barrier to steam penetration.

This method is also not cheap and requires significant financial investments to implement. But, as practice shows, it is better to spend money on quality material and thereby provide comfortable living conditions for many years to come.

Combining materials is not at all uncommon. Materials with compatible characteristics can be used together for insulation. For example, mineral wool and polystyrene foam go well together. The first is placed between the rafters, and the second is placed closer to the edge of the roof. This combination will allow you to achieve the desired effect and significantly save on the purchase of materials.

Can provide reliable thermal insulation in combination with other materials

As you can see from the descriptions, each insulation has its own advantages and disadvantages. The only question is to choose the most suitable option, which will satisfy the idea of ​​correspondence between price and quality of the material.

One of the most common mistakes that owners make is a rash choice in favor of the cheapest option for attic insulation. Videos and articles can demonstrate the positive aspects of a particular solution, but the choice must be taken into account all the nuances and characteristics. Attempts to save on thermal insulation material may lead to the fact that after some time of operation, you will have to carry out repair work or even completely replace the entire material.

Insulating the attic from the inside with your own hands: video and stages of work

Each material has its own fastening characteristics and should be used exclusively in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations. But if we talk about the general procedure for carrying out work, then there are mandatory stages that are carried out almost always, regardless of the material chosen.

Layer is laid out first waterproofing material, which should protect the insulation from the destructive effects of moisture. The film is overlapped so that one layer overlaps the other by 10-15 cm. The material is secured using construction stapler, and the joints are additionally taped with tape.

Then, if necessary, a sheathing is created. For it, you can use wooden slats, the width of which is 8-10 cm. They need to be attached to the rafters, positioned parallel to each other at a distance of 50-60 cm. It is very important to check each element separately using building level. This will prevent any roof defects from occurring in the future.

A heat insulator is placed on the rafters or sheathing and secured in a suitable manner. For example, if we are talking about using any type of wool sold in the form of rolls, then the material is cut into pieces of the required size in order to lay them between the rafters. In this case, the thickness of the insulation should be such as to correspond to the width of the log. It is especially important if you decide to insulate the walls from the inside with mineral wool plus drywall. In this case, all free space must be filled with insulation.

The top layer of this “pie” is a layer of vapor barrier material, which can be used as polyethylene film, glassine or roofing felt. As with waterproofing, the selected material is overlapped. True, in this case it is better to fasten using thin wooden slats, placing them in increments of 40-50 cm. All joints must be taped.

Helpful advice! If you need to lay several layers of thermal insulation material, you need to lay a vapor barrier film between each of them. This is especially true for cold regions.

As a final step, all that remains is to take care of a suitable finishing coating, which can be attached to the sheathing or, in the absence of it, directly to the bars. It is worth taking into account the weight of the used decorative panels, since installation of the heaviest of them may require pre-installation metal profile frame.

The main mistakes made in the process of insulating the attic

The final result of the work, which is done by hand, directly depends on how accurately the technology and all the prescribed rules are followed. It is worth paying particular attention to the procedure for laying the waterproofing layer, since materials that are capable of absorbing moisture subsequently dry out, which often causes cold in the room.

• if the roof slope does not exceed 13°, this will cause precipitation to remain on the surface. The result is rust and leaks. All this can negatively affect the condition of the insulation, so it is important to make sure that the angle of inclination is large enough before starting work;
• installation of thermal insulation material on walls and roof is not all necessary work. It is also necessary to take care of the insulation of windows (according to Swedish technology). To do this, it is best to invite specialists to ensure that leaks are avoided. Especially if it is necessary to install windows at an angle;

• in order to provide the thermal insulation material with ventilation and the ability to dry out if it gets wet, it is advisable to leave a gap of approximately 2-3 cm between the material and the roof;
• it is strictly forbidden to skip at least one of the necessary layers of vapor or waterproofing materials;
• If the thermal insulation material is thicker than the rafters, then their height can be increased by filling additional slats yourself.

These simple recommendations can help in the work process, significantly increasing the quality of insulation. However, if for any reason there are doubts about the strength and experience, it would be better to invite a specialist. Of course, you will have to pay for this, but in this case you will not have to redo everything twice.

Insulating the attic gable from the inside is far from the most difficult task that a home owner may face. Often, owners want to place a balcony on the top floor, the insulation technology of which also has its own characteristics.

As with walls, a wide variety of materials can be used to insulate the ceiling on a balcony, although it is worth noting that loggia insulation technology is often used here, which has not been mentioned before. It will help you to understand in detail the features of this process. step-by-step instruction“Do-it-yourself insulation of a balcony from the inside.”

Do-it-yourself insulation of the attic from the inside with mineral wool: video instructions

As clear example It is recommended to watch a training video where the technology of insulating walls from the inside with mineral wool is presented in detail. This will allow you to familiarize yourself in detail with all the nuances and avoid the previously mentioned common mistakes.