Begonia tuberous - winter storage. Why do the leaves turn black? Fertilizers for gerberas differ at different stages of development

Gerber Wright.
G. ferruginea DC.
Green leaf.
G. aberdarica R.E.Fr.
Gerber Jameson.
Gerbera Abyssinian.

When is the best time to grow?

Important! Gerberas need to be watered only with warm water. Because of cold water the plant may die.

At first, when watering, it is necessary to use a spray bottle so that the water jet does not wash the seeds out of the soil.

Under all conditions, the gerbera will germinate in seven to ten days. Seedlings should grow up and get stronger. This will take two to three weeks. At this point, the gerbera should have three to four leaves.

During the formation of leaves and buds, gerbera needs systematic watering.
However, as soon as the first flowers appear, watering should be reduced. But it is worth constantly monitoring the condition of the soil - gerbera does not like high humidity or dryness.

Water at the edge of the pot so as not to flood the rosette. Or pour water into the pan, but after half an hour the remaining water should be drained. Never allow water to stagnate in the pan, because this can lead to fungal diseases and the formation of powdery mildew.

Gerbera loves to be sprayed with water. It is worth at least once every one or two days to spray the leaves of the gerbera with water dust, but not the flower itself.

Optimum temperature for growing gerberas - about 18-20 degrees. During this period, it is better to avoid direct sunlight.

Attention! To grow a beautiful and healthy gerbera, it should be fed mineral fertilizers once every two or three weeks. However, gerbera does not like organic fertilizers, so do not cover the soil around the stem of the plant with compost or humus!

Between June and August. It blooms only when the leaf rosette has grown enough. The number of flowers and their size directly depends on the quality of the plant, as well as on the light and air temperature. In order to prolong the flowering of gerbera, it is necessary to remove faded inflorescences. This will cause new buds to appear. Dry stems should be cut as low as possible so that the stumps do not rot.

If the gerbera was planted outdoors, it should be transplanted into a spacious pot in the fall. For the winter period, the plant should be placed in a cool, dry place, for example, in a basement (the temperature should not be lower than 12 and not higher than 14 degrees). Until spring, gerberas need to be watered only a few times.

More details about diseases and pests room gerbera read, and in consider the problem of why the leaves of the plant turn yellow.

Based on the foregoing, growing a gerbera is not as difficult as it seems. By following clear guidelines, everyone is able to grow this beautiful flower, which will decorate your flower bed or window sill. There is even a belief: gerberas attract well-being, love and joy to the house. And they say that gerberas are the flowers that can be given to men.

garden gerbera perennial, which does not require colossal care efforts, but it still has its own requirements.

garden gerbera perennial flower, with basal leaves and flowers similar to chamomile. Belongs to the Compositae family. It blooms in gardens from early spring to late autumn. Multi-colored chamomile, only large sizes.

The height of the bushes is average up to 30 cm, although there are also taller varieties up to half a meter. Flowers of various colors with a diameter of 10-15 cm.

The most famous varieties:

Gerbera Daisy.
Jameson.

Even apartment dwellers often plant this flower on their windowsill. It is not whimsical in care, grows and develops quickly, resistance to cut flowers.

It is better to pull out the flower stalks completely, leaving even a small cutting can lead the plant to death, it can rot. Exist special types gerberas bred for planting in pots are less demanding to care for.

Cut flowers can stand for up to twenty days, if you do not collect a full vase of water, thereby preventing the stem from rotting.

Gerberas are so unpretentious that even planting these flowers is possible not only in spring, but also all year round, without significant dependence on weather conditions. On hot days, the leaves may wilt a little, and with the onset of a cool night, recover again. There is nothing wrong with this.

landing technologies

Basic principles for landing:

To grow this colorful flower on your garden plot it must be reckoned with the fact that the warm summer climate is more favorable. For the winter, this flower is covered with fallen leaves or straw. If you live in a cold climate zone With harsh winters, then it is better to dig up the gerbera and transplant it into a pot. There is a high probability that the flower can freeze during severe frosts, the covering material will not save it in this case. Can be grown as annual flower planting new ones every year.
When landing, you should choose a place well lit by the sun. This is one of the main conditions. Your plant will be able to achieve both normal growth and beautiful inflorescences characteristic of the variety.
Planting is done in the garden in early spring. In an ordinary flower bed or garden bed. The earth should be well warmed up, and with sufficient drainage to prevent rotting of the root system.
During active growth water the plant abundantly, but through a measured bay with water it also has a bad effect. It is best in moderation, so that the plant does not dry out, and there is well-moistened soil, without stagnant water. Watering should be done without getting on the leaves and inflorescences. Better to use water room temperature, do not forget also about top dressing with mineral fertilizers.

Reproduction of garden gerbera

This plant can be propagated in three ways, consider each of them:

For propagation by cuttings, it is necessary to form young shoots on a bush. To do this, you need to dig a bush, rinse it and cut off the rosette of leaves. We plant in a greenhouse and in two weeks young shoots will appear from the axillary buds, they will later be the basis for the cuttings.
For propagation of gerberas by dividing the bush, this is the main method of propagation of the plant. To do this, in the spring they dig up a bush and divide it into shoots with several leaves on each. And they are planted in the soil with a minimum protrusion of the outlet by one centimeter. If you do not have a bush, these two methods will obviously not work for you, and you will have to grow a plant from seeds. If you want to get early flowering from a flower, then seedlings will need to be planted in January or February.
For planting seeds and seedlings, both open and closed soils can be used. Do not forget that the flowering of a plant directly depends on the time of sowing the seeds. Seeds are soaked in water before planting, it is better to put them on gauze, abundantly moistened with water, you should not allow the seeds to dry out these days. After four days, most of the seeds begin to hatch. We plant them in loose soil, while sprinkling sand on top. From above it is recommended to cover with a film. The recommended temperature is 25 degrees. Shoots will appear in a week, while the soil should not be flooded or dry out from the sun. It is best to spray with a spray bottle, the soil will be moist, and there will be no excess moisture.

Therefore, you can begin to form seedlings even in the fall. The grown plant is planted in a garden bed or in a flower bed when 3-4 leaves appear at the seedlings. The soil must be warm and better soil disinfect before planting.

So that the plant does not get sick with various fungal diseases. Do not forget that the soil must be drainage system. It is recommended to apply top dressing to the soil after disinfection before planting.

How to care for gerberas at different times of the year

During abundant flowering it is necessary to water the flowers abundantly, to prevent the root system from drying out. The drought will have a bad effect and you will not get good result. With the development and growth of the gerbera, watering with fertilizer in a weak concentration is needed. Such top dressing is best done twice a month, and regularly. It is better to use mineral fertilizer. In autumn, top dressing is reduced to once a month, in winter they are not needed at all. Since the gerbera does not tolerate chlorine, potassium chloride should not be used when top dressing.
In autumn, you need to dig a plant if you have winters in a region with a harsh climate. Having dug it out, it is transplanted into a spacious pot or container, the dimensions are selected depending on the size of the bush. The optimal composition of the soil during transplantation will be a composition of peat (we take 2 parts), leafy soil (2 parts) and sand (one part). Good drainage when transplanting into a pot is a necessary condition; expanded clay is perfect for it. When transplanting, the root neck is placed above the ground to avoid rot.
If the winters are not very cold, you can not transplant the plant. In this case, it is well covered with dry leaves or a large layer of straw. In the spring, it will be necessary to remove the covering material when the snow finally melts and the weather is warm enough.

Diseases and pests

This unpretentious plant very susceptible to various diseases. To prevent diseases during planting, the soil must be treated with special preparations.

Often there is a rotting of the roots of the plant, which causes fungus or excessive watering. For prevention, improve drainage, observe the irrigation regime.

appeared gray rot destroyed by special preparations. They can be purchased at any specialized flower shop. Handle flowers carefully, getting the drug on the leaves causes ugly spots.

disease such as powdery mildew mainly affects the flower in the summer heat at elevated temperatures. Fight such a disease using appropriate fungicides or sulfur-containing preparations.

Pests such as aphids, spider mites are diseases that can cause the death of a plant. Signs of their appearance will be the yellowing of the gerbera and its wilting. In this case, the plant should be saved with insecticidal special preparations.

How to care for a gerbera in Siberia

Grow in Siberian garden gerbera is not so easy. middle lane Russia, of course, is suitable for landing this amazing flower, although this area is a little problematic. After all, this plant is familiar in more southern gardens.

There it blooms from April to October, and in some areas until mid-November. It also depends on the weather conditions and the time of the onset of cold weather, it differs from year to year.

In the southern regions, gardeners do without shelter. But in the gardens of Siberia, shelter with the onset of cold weather will not work either. In winter, the temperature drops very low, and the sheltered material, and the abundance of snow cover, will not save it low.

Therefore, this marvelous flower is grown as an annual plant. Digging in case of a transplant for the winter is worth big ball earth, or put this flower in the cellar in a box of sawdust. The temperature regime desirable for the winter period should not exceed ten degrees.

The month of March is better suited for planting seeds, when a sunny day will take a sufficiently long period of time. Plant in containers with good drainage and cover with foil.

Seedlings do not like direct sunlight. But at the same time, the illumination should be sufficient if the seedlings are planted earlier, they will not have enough sunlight and will have to be artificially illuminated with a lamp. Seeds are best germinated by soaking before planting.

The grown seedlings will need to dive when three leaves appear. After three weeks, when a favorable temperature regime is established on the street, it will be possible to plant them in open ground.

If there is a possibility of frost, it is necessary to cover with material at night, no matter what frost damages your seedlings. Otherwise, plant care will be the same as in other regions. Once every two weeks, it is necessary to feed the flower with mineral fertilizers. When watering them, you need to avoid getting on the leaves, because of this, red spots appear on them. What significantly spoils appearance Gerberas.

Weed and disease control is also part of the care. Gerbera is especially susceptible to the appearance of gray rot. Therefore, the ground for seedlings and before planting in open ground should be disinfected, thereby protecting it from the appearance of this fungus in the ground.

Having planted this wonderful flower in your garden or in an apartment, on the windowsill, you will be satisfied with its constant flowering, because during the flowering period it produces up to twenty peduncles.

Home gerbera description. What does a gerbera look like? The large range of vibrant flower shades has made the ornamental gerbera a very popular plant. A perennial plant in warm climates, which is grown as an annual in colder countries (regions with a temperate climate). The leaves are diamond-shaped, long, with jagged or wavy edges and distinct veins about 15 cm long, green, collected in a rosette, very thin and easily damaged.Damaged leaves must be removed to keep the plant attractive.

The lower part of the leaf blade is often pubescent with small hairs. Peduncles are thick, appear in the second year of the plant's life, each bears one or more flowers, similar to chamomile or daisy, 8 - 13 cm in diameter. Shades range from pink, purple, red, yellow to white. The most common are plants with single, but very large flowers resembling chamomile, but there are also varieties with double flowers resembling a pompom. Mature plants may die at the age of 2 - 3 years, however, small daughter rosettes will appear near them.

Height. Reaches 40 cm in height indoors, dwarf varieties, which are most often grown in pots, reach a height of 15 - 30 cm in height.

0.1. Flowering time

Flowering gerbera begins in spring and continues until autumn. Plants grown indoors can bloom at any time of the year. Each flower stays open for approximately 4 - 6 weeks.

1.Gerberas - home care

1.1. Growing in a pot - soil

Light and well-drained, a mixture of 2 parts peat moss and 1 part perlite will do. or coarse river sand to improve drainage. The soil should easily pass moisture and air to the roots. It is preferable to use soil with a slightly acidic or neutral pH in the range of 5.5 to 6.5 for growing potted gerberas.

1.2. Transplanting room gerbera

Every two years in March, a deep, but not wide pot is selected for planting, as the plants have an impressive root system. The need for another transplant will be indicated by the roots that have appeared in the drainage holes of the pot. IN new ground Gerberas are planted observing the planting depth - the root neck should not be buried in the ground. It is better to use transshipment, as gerberas do not like damage to the root system. Gerbera prefers to be slightly cramped in a pot - this way the flowering will be more abundant, so you should not pick up a large container for planting.

1.3 Pests and diseases

The leaves at the base are yellow or brown in case of excess water or lack of fertilizer. Leaves may discolor or droop when rot occurs. Gerbera stretches when there is a lack of sunlight. The plant turns yellow with a lack of sunlight. The deepening of the root neck during planting leads to a slowdown in development and decay.

Yellow leaves with green veins indicate an iron or magnesium deficiency. With high humidity or spraying in the evening, plants can rot and become ill with powdery mildew.

Neutral or alkaline soil can cause chlorosis. Thickened and deformed leaf blades indicate excessive watering. The plant can get burned if it is exposed to direct sunlight for a long time.

Flowering may not occur when grown in partial shade or lack of nutrients in the soil mixture. If the gerbera is drooping, it is possible that she is under stress from a sudden change. temperature regime, or has undergone a bay or drought - it is worth accustoming the plant to any changes gradually. Of the pests, the gerbera is attacked by aphids, whiteflies and mealybugs.

1.4. Reproduction - cuttings, gerbera from seeds

In March, when transplanting, adult plants are divided and planted in separate pots. Try not to damage the roots while doing this. Sowing of seeds is carried out in February - March in barely moist soil, sprinkled with a very thin layer of soil or simply pressed a little into the surface of the soil and covered with glass. Only fresh seeds have the highest germination, even for those that have lain for several months, it leaves much to be desired.

For seed germination, the temperature should be 22 - 24 ° C, and the humidity should be almost one hundred percent. IN optimal conditions the first shoots can be seen already on the 3rd day after sowing. Seedlings are kept at a temperature of 16 - 18 ° C, in partial shade. Ventilate the container by lifting the glass every day to avoid condensation that could cause the seedlings to rot.

After the appearance of the first true leaves, the air humidity is reduced to 50% by airing the crops. Plant young plants with the first true leaves in May in separate pots without deepening the root neck. The pick should be carried out carefully, trying not to damage the small tender roots. The first pick can be carried out in small containers up to 200 ml in volume, in which case the gerbera will quickly braid the earthen ball with its roots and will develop the ground part. When planting immediately in large pots, it is worth carefully watering - excess soil can accumulate moisture and the plant will rot. Seedlings are fertilized 10 days after transplanting and picking with fertilizers with high content potassium and nitrogen.

The first flowering will come in a month - in June. Gerbera seeds quickly lose their germination capacity, so use only fresh material for propagation.

1.5 Temperature for potted plants

In summer, the plant should be kept at a temperature of 18 to 22 ° C. Wintering should take place at a temperature of 15 - 16 ° C. It withstands temperatures down to 5 ° C, but not lower. It is possible to grow gerberas at home on the balcony, provided that the temperature there does not rise above 24 ° C. Flowering will be longer if the plant is kept cool, such maintenance can also encourage re-blooming. Gerberas do not like extreme heat, do not place bushes near sources of heating.

1.6. Fertilizer

From May to September every 15 days, plants respond positively to both mineral and organic fertilizers. During the dormant period, feeding is stopped. With the advent of buds, potash and phosphorus fertilizers are used to promote flowering. At the first sign of chlorosis, feed the plant with iron chelate. Top dressing is carried out only after watering, since the ingress of a nutrient solution into dry soil can provoke a burn of the root system.

1.7 Care and pruning of gerberas

Flowers are easy to care for both indoors and outdoors. These tender plants do not tolerate frost. Regularly remove dry leaves that can cause root collar rot. Pinch off old flowers to encourage new ones to appear. Gerberas will appreciate being outdoors during the warm season. After acquisition flowering bush in a flower shop, it should be transplanted into a nutritious flower soil in a slightly larger pot, and 2 weeks after transplantation, start feeding.

1.8 Lighting

In summer, the plant prefers a well-lit place without direct sunlight. When placed outdoors - find a place in partial shade. In autumn and winter, the gerbera needs direct sun and can be placed on the most lit window sill. For the onset of flowering, a long daylight hours is very important - at least 10 - 14 hours, in autumn and winter it is possible to use artificial lighting. With a lack of lighting, plants slow down the growing season and stop blooming.

1.9 Purpose

This is one of the most popular and most beautiful solar plants in floristry - its bright, large flowers often used in bouquets - a cut gerbera does not lose its attractiveness for a long time standing in the water. Plants can be used for forcing for any holiday and give them directly in pots.

1.10. Air humidity

Good air circulation around the plant can prevent leaf spot, which appears as brown spots surrounded by light color borders. gerbera prefers high humidity air - in winter time when turn on central heating, it should be sprayed.

Spraying should be carried out in the morning, so that the moisture has time to evaporate from the leaves before dark. Droplets of moisture should not fall on the buds and flowers, and you should not spray plants that are under direct sunlight - they can get burned. The plant does not like exposure to cold drafts.

1.11. Watering

Gerberas are very sensitive to residual moisture - do not let the water stagnate in the pan. In summer, water regularly, but not excessively, drying the soil a few centimeters deep. During the winter months, reduce the frequency of watering according to the room temperature. Slightly lowered flower heads will indicate the need for another watering.

Do not water until upper layer 2.5 cm thick soil will not dry out. For irrigation, it is desirable to use softened water at room temperature. Watering is carried out under the root, lifting and pushing large leaf blades to the side. Water during irrigation should not fall into the leaf socket - water along the edge of the pot or into the pan.

Note. With age, the plant can become quite lanky and unattractive, it is worth changing it every 3 years. Flowers of some varieties can reach a diameter of 18 cm.

Hydroponics. With the condition of gradual acclimatization, gerberas can be successfully grown hydroponically.

2. Varieties:

2.1. Gerbera Jameson - Gerbera jamesonii

perennial herbaceous plant up to 45 cm high with large, green, deeply cut leaves covered with silky hairs. The leaves are collected in a basal rosette, reach a length of 25 cm. The inflorescence appears on an upright thin peduncle, resembles a chamomile, can be painted in a wide variety of shades, except for Blue colour. Flowering occurs in spring and autumn.

2.2. Gerbera mini Pomponi - Gerbera Mini ‘Pomponi’

A distinctive feature of the plant is their compact size - they often do not exceed 20 cm in height and the unusual structure of the inflorescences - they have many long petals, in connection with which they resemble a pompom on a children's hat. The diameter of the inflorescence can reach 5 - 7 cm.

2.3. Gerbera needle spider - Gerbera ‘Spider’

Small plants reaching 40 cm in height. Unusual are sharp, needle-shaped, bent in all directions flower petals, from which the inflorescences look disheveled. The shades of the inflorescences vary from white to yellow, orange, brownish, pink, red, burgundy.

2.4. Gerbera Germini - Wikiwand Gerbera Germini

Miniature, small-flowered gerberas with a very diverse color of the petals. The height of the plant can be 40 - 45 cm, and the diameter of the inflorescence reaches 5 - 7 cm. This variety is very popular with florists.

2.5. Gerbera Monarch - Gerbera diamond monarch

Large-flowered gerbera up to 45 cm high, the distinguishing feature of which is the bright orange color of the inflorescences.

2.6. Gerbera Kimsey - Wikiwand Gerbera Kimsey

Very delicate hybrid gerbera up to 40 cm high with large white, cream or (more often) pink inflorescences with a diameter of 6 - 10 cm. The center of the inflorescences is often colored in a greenish tint.

2.7. Gerbera Twister Mix - Wikiwand Gerbera Twister Mix

Extremely spectacular and at the same time compact, two-color beauty 25 - 35 cm high. A distinctive feature of the plants are brightly colored inflorescences with petals of contrasting tones. The center of the flowers often remains dark brown. The diameter of the inflorescences can reach 12 cm.

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This type of plant belongs to perennials and is classified as a species from the aster family. The leaves of this beautiful flower during growth are collected in a rosette, and, together with the peduncle, the plant resembles a large dandelion. Bright, sunny and cheerful flower. Gerbera flowers, after the end of their development, are very similar to daisies, but at the same time, they have different colors. The flower can reach approx. 15 cm in diameter depending on the species. It can also be considered a virtue that there are many colors of these colors in the world, except for blue.

Temperature

The plant is adapted to the warm season and develops well when the temperature fluctuates. 20 to 24 degrees Celsius. A flower can endure hot periods much easier than a cold season. When the temperature drops, the plant enters a dormant state. Minimum temperature limit – 12-14 degrees Celsius. But, it is advisable not to keep the gerbera at the lowest thermal threshold, otherwise the plant may die.

Humidity

The plant prefers to develop in moist air, so during growth and flowering it is necessary to maintain a stable humidity of approximately 70%. It is necessary to spray the perennial carefully, avoiding moisture stagnation on the leaves and the middle of the flower. Since the gerbera is not adapted to life in temperate latitudes, the maintenance of humidity and air and its temperature must be carried out every day. Otherwise, the plant may get sick from a lack of necessary conditions for existence.

Light

Gerbera is a plant from South Africa, and only in this part of the continent is it able to grow and develop in open space. Therefore, flower growers grow it only in greenhouses or at home. Gerbera loves heat and light, so you should place it in those places in the room where there is enough light. But, like most plants, gerberas can burn with strong light intensity. Therefore, if sunlight- too bright and the temperature outside is high enough, then you need to save the plant, at least covering it with a curtain and, thereby, providing diffused light.

It is necessary to create conditions under which the flower will be shaded by the sun for at least half of the daylight hours and to exclude an excess of heat, and then the plant will flourish and develop.

The perennial must be looked after every day, because the only natural habitat is the tropics, and in all other latitudes it is necessary to help it. And then the gerbera will be able to please the grower with its beauty.

What soil is suitable for the plant?

For perennial growth, the soil must do not contain organic. The reason why the plant does not like organic matter is the excessive pliability of the root system to fungal diseases. Stagnation of water or watering above the norm can provoke the development of fungi on a tropical perennial. Neutral soil that is not prone to fungal infection is best suited. When using this soil, there is no need to use pesticides to combat harmful fungal formations in the soil.

Watering and feeding the plant

Watering is carried out warm water with an approximate temperature of about 20 degrees Celsius. It is necessary to carry out watering along the edges of the container in which the plant lives and, at the same time, prevent water from getting on the leaves and the rosette of the flower. Gerbera by nature is tropical plant, and because of this, it is necessary to constantly maintain a certain soil moisture. In case of watering cold water, especially in hot weather, the roots of the plant will not withstand the heat difference and the flower will get sick. Therefore, regular watering with warm water is recommended. Also, waterlogging should not be allowed, because because of it, rotting of the lower leaves is possible. If the soil is too wet for a long time, it is possible that nematodes, tiny worms, will start in it. This will lead to plant diseases.

Gerbera requires daily spraying with warm water, because it loves moist air.

Due to the need to use neutral soil, it becomes necessary to use mineral fertilizers. It is necessary to fertilize constantly. Gerbera needs watering with complex mineral fertilizers when planting seedlings. The substrate must not dry out. When flowering, the plant is fed complex fertilizers high in potassium and calcium. It is also necessary to use fertilizers with a high iron content or irrigate the soil with an iron chelate solution. Held feeding once a week.

How to propagate gerberas?

There are two ways of reproduction - this is the division of the bush and reproduction using seeds.

When transplanting, the root neck is specially placed in the substrate so that its top rises above the soil surface by about 2-3 cm.
Reproduction of perennial is carried out in March. To carry out the breeding process by dividing the bush, it is necessary to divide the root ball of the flower and plant it in a container with a diameter of 10 cm. This space will be enough for its development.

Gerbera seed propagation is carried out in January or March, while the containers in which the seed was planted are covered with glass to create a microclimate. These containers need to be ventilated daily so that air circulates in the soil. But it is not recommended to leave it for constant air circulation, because then the microclimate will disappear, and the seeds will not be able to grow. During seed germination, the temperature environment must be kept within 16-18 degrees Celsius. Also, a prerequisite is moderate and constant soil moisture.

Over time, the seeds will begin to grow and already young plants will appear, not yet sufficiently developed into a separate flower, but already capable of transplanting. Then it will be necessary to transplant into pots with a diameter of 10 cm. After the next growth, transplant into pots with a diameter of 15-20 cm. This is already the final transplant after reproduction. main feature transplanting shoots of a plant into large containers is the correct determination of the size of a plant that can tolerate a transplant. It is necessary to transplant into large containers when the gerbera is already strong enough. It is determined by eye. The shoot must be stable and strong for its small size.
The same transplant in the tank bigger size accompanies the method of separation of the root ball.

Care must be taken when propagating gerberas and remember that the plant is tropical, which means tropical conditions should be strictly observed during reproduction. But you can not overdo it with temperature and moisture, as the plant is too weak during the breeding process. Self Care and breeding gerberas is quite simple.

Preparing a flower for wintering

In winter, care for gerberas consists in storage in a dry and dark room, mainly in the basement. It is placed with a clod of earth at a temperature of 6-8 degrees. It is possible to stay gerbera on the windowsill. But it is better to give the plant a rest and endure a cold and unacceptable period for it in darkness, dryness and peace. Be sure to leave the roots in the ground so that the root system is under a layer of natural heat insulator and is not exposed to cold masses. After all, only the upper part of the gerbera can tolerate atmospheric changes without problems. And then, when kept in comfortable conditions. But the root system of the flower is very susceptible to disease and the influence of air, so you need to be especially careful with the roots, especially during wintering.

The digging process itself is carried out after the leaves fall off. Yellowed leaves and flowers are cut off with a neat method and only when the connecting elements with the stem are already wilted enough, and when torn off there will be no open wound at the plant. Leaves and flowers break out, not cut off.

Plant diseases

Rotting of the root neck due to stagnant water or contaminated soil. Precautionary measure - drainage and proper watering.
Gray rot is also a gerbera disease and is caused by excessive moisture in the soil. For prevention, special prophylactic drugs are used.
Powdery mildew appears when the air is too hot, and you can get rid of it with the help of fungicides or preparations containing sulfur.
Aphids, thrips and spider mites they can also terrorize the plant, due to which the flower turns yellow and dies. Prevention is insecticidal preparations.
When the flowers are cut, the peduncle rots and this rot affects the entire plant. It is recommended to break out the flowers, rather than cut them.

How to save begonia tubers until spring? If the begonia was grown from purchased tubers, the size of which is more than 3 cm, she is satisfied with a dormant period from late November to mid-February. If the tuberous begonia is grown from seeds or by cuttings from the leaves of an adult plant, it does not need a dormant period. Storage of begonia tubers in winter depends entirely on the age of the plant and the size of its tuber. How to prepare a plant for winter? What to do with young tubers? All questions are answered by experienced growers.

How to store begonia tubers at home?

The dormant period for tuberous begonias begins in mid-November and lasts until mid-February. However, you need to prepare for it in advance. If the plant blooms, experts recommend regularly removing faded flowers. If the begonia lays new buds in September, they should be cut off without regret. Why? The flower soon enters a dormant period, and late flowering weakens the tuber.

How to save adult begonia tubers?

Here we will talk about plants whose age exceeds 2 years, and the size of the tuber is at least 3-4 cm in diameter. The conditions for storing first-year begonias in winter are somewhat different.

In September-October, many begonias begin to wither and dry leaves.. This natural process. Thus, the plant prepares for sleep in winter. What to do? If the pot is located on a glazed loggia and balcony, it is brought into the house if there is a threat of night frost. The optimum temperature during the day is +10 ... +15 degrees, at night - not lower than +5 degrees. If the begonia was grown in room conditions, it is transferred to a cool place where the temperature does not rise above +15 degrees.

So, the preparation of begonia tubers for winter begins from the moment when the leaves of the plant begin to wither and turn yellow. This happens in September-October. Such leaves are not cut, but wait until they are completely dry. Over time, they simply unscrew without any extra effort.

Important!!! The green leaves of begonias cannot be plucked, thereby forcibly laying the flower to rest. The leaves, drying up, transfer all the nutrients to the tuber. Having cut off all the foliage while still green, the grower deprives the tuber of the opportunity to build up mass.

Watering begonias from the end of September to the end of October is significantly reduced. You need to make sure that the soil is slightly damp. Depending on the temperature of the content, the optimal watering regimen is 1 time in 1-1.5 weeks. A similar humidity regime stimulates the plant to sleep. In conditions of lack of moisture, the leaves will turn yellow faster. At the end of October, watering is completely stopped.

Leaves on begonias should turn yellow in late October.. They are carefully removed. If this does not happen, reduce the temperature of the flower content.

Begonia lighting during dormancy is not needed. Moreover, it can harm the flower. After all, under the straight lines sunbeams the flower may wake up ahead of time, because the plant, after it has shed all the foliage, must be rearranged in a dark place. The optimum storage temperature is +5...+12 degrees.

Optimal storage of begonia tubers in winter is carried out in basement where it is cool and dark. If the begonia was grown in open field, it is dug up after the first frost. Without shaking off the ground, they are laid out in boxes and transferred to the basement. If the begonia was grown in pots on the balcony, it is not necessary to remove it from the ground. After the death of the ground part, flower pots are simply transferred to a dark and cool room. If it is not possible to store in the basement, it can be a pantry, a space near the balcony.

You can store begonia tubers without soil. To do this, after the death of the ground part, the tuber is dug out of the ground, dried and placed in a box. You can sprinkle everything with sawdust or peat. It is not recommended to store begonia tubers for the winter in plastic bag. There, the plant's breathing process is disrupted, condensate accumulates. It is the cause of decay.

How to store first-year begonia tubers?

Begonia tubers grown from seeds this year do not go to sleep during the winter. In the first year of its life, the plant tries to increase the mass of the tuber, and therefore retains the leaves. If the seedlings developed in the open field, then before the onset of the first night frost, the plants must be transplanted into pots and swept into the house.

How to store first-year tubers in winter? They do not shed their leaves and they are not laid to rest. They should wait out the winter in a cool and bright place where the temperature does not fall below + 15 degrees. How experienced flower growers do:

Stop feeding since September.
The buds that the plant lays in September-October must be cut off.
It is necessary to water the begonia tuber of the first year as the top layer of soil dries up. Watering is carried out along the contour of the pot. Water should not fall on the tuber. Optimal mode watering - once a week. It can be less often if the temperature of the content lies within +15 degrees.
Lighting is a must. Otherwise, the begonia stalks will simply stretch out.
You can store begonias in winter on the east side of the house. But heating devices can in this case dry the air and raise the ambient temperature, and therefore you can put a container of water on the windowsill.
You can not feed the flower. Although he retained the ground part, he practically does not consume nutrients from the soil, and their excess can lead to root rot.

In the spring, the elongated cuttings can be cut and rooted, but only after the tuber gives new stems.