bituminous roofing soft tiles easy to use, durable and aesthetic. Its big plus is that it is quite possible self-assembly. The technology is not the most complicated, the weight of the fragment is small, it is attached to the adhesive base, additionally fixed with roofing nails. So the installation of soft tiles with your own hands can be done even alone.
Roofing cake for soft tiles
The attic under the roof can be warm or cold, depending on this, the composition of the roofing cake changes. But its part from the rafters and above always remains unchanged:
- waterproofing is stuffed on the rafters;
- on it - bars with a thickness of at least 30 mm;
- solid flooring.
Here we will consider these materials in more detail - from what and how to make, what features each of them has.
Waterproofing
Waterproofing membranes are available in one, two or three layers. Single-layer membranes - the simplest and cheapest, perform only a dual task - do not allow moisture to pass towards the room and release vapors to the outside. So in a simple way not only is the attic protected from the penetration of condensate or suddenly leaked precipitation, but also excess moisture that accompanies human life is removed from the air. Single-layer membranes are poorly represented on the market. Practically they are produced by one company - Tyvek.
Two and three-layer membranes are more durable. They, in addition to the waterproofing layer, also have a layer that gives greater tensile strength. The third layer, if any, is the absorbent layer. That is, even if a drop of condensate has formed on the surface of the membrane, this layer absorbs it into itself, preventing it from spilling onto other materials. With sufficient ventilation, moisture from this layer gradually evaporates and is carried away by air currents.
Three-layer membranes (for example, EUROTOP N35, RANKKA, YUTAKON) are desirable if your attic is insulated and mineral wool is used as a heater. It is afraid of getting wet and with an increase in humidity by 10% loses half of its thermal insulation properties.
If there is a cold attic under the soft tiles, it is advisable to use a two-layer waterproofing membrane. In terms of strength, it is much better than single-layer ones, and at a price it is only a little more expensive.
crate
On top of the waterproofing film, parallel to the overhang, the lathing strips are stuffed. They are necessary to create a ventilation gap. It will help maintain the normal humidity of roofing materials.
The crate is made from boards conifers(mainly pine trees). The thickness of the boards is at least 30 mm. This is the minimum gap that will ensure the normal movement of air in the under-roof space. Before laying, the wood must be treated with an impregnation that protects against pests and fungi; after drying this layer, it is also treated with flame retardants, which reduce the combustibility of wood.
The minimum length of the board for the crate is at least two spans of rafters. They are attached and connected above the rafter legs. You can't connect them anywhere else.
Flooring
The flooring under soft tiles is made solid. Materials are selected based on the fact that nails must be driven into it, therefore they are usually used:
- OSB 3;
- moisture resistant plywood;
- tongue-and-groove or edged board of the same thickness (25 mm) with a moisture content of not more than 20%.
When laying flooring under soft tiles, it is necessary to leave gaps between the elements to compensate for thermal expansion. When using plywood or OSB, the gap is 3 mm, between edged boards 1-5 mm. sheet material fasten with a run-out of seams, that is, so that the joints are not continuous. Fasten the OSB with self-tapping screws or ruffed nails.
Using boards as flooring, it is necessary to ensure that the annual rings of the wood are directed downwards. With the reverse arrangement, they will be arched, soft tiles will be lifted, the tightness of the coating may be broken. There is another trick that will keep the wooden flooring even if the moisture content of the boards is above 20%. When laying the ends of the boards, they are additionally fastened with two nails or self-tapping screws hammered close to the edge. This additional fastener will prevent the boards from bending during shrinkage.
The choice of the thickness of the material for flooring under soft tiles depends on the pitch of the crate. The larger the pitch, the thicker the flooring required. The best option- frequent step and thin plates. In this case, a light but rigid base is obtained.
Another point concerns the installation of flooring for soft tiles around the chimney pipe. With a brick pipe, the width of which is more than 50 cm, a groove is made behind it (pictured). This design, reminiscent of a mini-roof. It separates the rain streams, they roll down the sides of the pipe without flowing into the under-roof space.
After installing the flooring, its geometry is checked. The length is measured, the width of the slope at the top and bottom, the height of the slope on both sides, the diagonals are measured. And the last check - tracking the plane - the entire slope must lie entirely in the same plane.
Soft tile roofing technology
When buying, you will most likely be provided with instructions, to which the installation of soft tiles will be described step by step and in detail, indicating all the exact dimensions that this particular manufacturer requires. These recommendations should be followed. However, it is worth getting acquainted with the order of work and their volumes ahead of time - in order to understand the intricacies of installation and the required amount of materials.
We must say right away that it is necessary to handle soft tiles when laying carefully - she does not like it if she is bent. Therefore, try not to bend or crush the shingles unnecessarily (this is one fragment consisting of a visible and mounting part).
Overhang reinforcement
The drip bar is installed first. This is an L-shaped sheet of metal coated with paint or polymer composition. Polymer coating is more expensive, but also more reliable. The color is selected close to the color shingles.
Drip bar installed along the roof overhangs
The task of the drip bar is to protect the crate, sections of rafters and flooring from moisture. With one edge, the dropper is laid on the flooring, with the second it closes the overhang. It is fastened with galvanized (stainless steel) nails, which are hammered in a checkerboard pattern (one is closer to the fold, the second is almost at the edge). Fastener installation step - 20-25 cm.
The drip bar is sold in two-meter pieces. Having laid the first element, the second is fixed with an overlap of at least 3 cm. If desired, the gap can be closed: grease the joint with bituminous mastic, fill it with sealant. At the same stage, it is mounted, in any case, hooks are nailed that will hold the gutters.
Laying waterproofing carpet
Regardless of the angle of the roof, a waterproofing lining must be laid in and along the slope. It is sold in meter wide rolls. An adhesive is applied to the underside, covered with a protective film or paper. Before laying, the paper is removed, the valley carpet is glued to the flooring.
Installation of a waterproofing carpet begins with laying it in the valley. Roll out the material of a meter width, distributing 50 cm on both sides of the bend. Here it is desirable to do without joints, but, if necessary, the overlap of two canvases should be at least 15 cm. Laying goes from bottom to top, the junction is additionally coated with bitumen mastic, the material is well pressed.
Next, a waterproofing carpet for flexible tiles is laid along the cornice overhang. Minimum Width carpet on the cornice overhang - the size of the overhang itself, plus 60 cm. The lower edge is located on top of the drip, it can bend down a few centimeters. First, the carpet is rolled out, if necessary, cut, then the protective film is removed from the inside and glued to the substrate. Additionally, they are fixed along the edges with stainless steel or galvanized nails with a large flat hat (step 20-25 cm).
In places of a horizontal joint, the overlap of two canvases is at least 10 cm, in the vertical direction - at least 15 cm. All joints are additionally coated with bituminous mastic, the material is compressed.
Lining carpet
The lining carpet, as well as the waterproofing carpet, is sold in rolls of meter width, the back side is covered with an adhesive. The laying method depends on the slope of the roof and on the profile of the selected shingles.
When using shingles with cuts (such as Jazz, Trio, Beaver tail), regardless of the slope, the lining carpet is spread over the entire surface of the roof.
Underlayment installation often requires undercutting. This is done with a sharp knife. In order not to damage the material below when cutting, enclose a piece of plywood or OSB.
Fronton (end) plank
Gable strips are mounted on the side sections of the overhangs. These are strips of metal bent in the form of the letter "G", along the fold line of which there is a small protrusion. They cover the laid roofing materials from wind loads, from moisture ingress. The gable plank is laid on the flooring over the lining or waterproofing carpet, fixed with nails (stainless steel or galvanized) in a checkerboard pattern with a step of 15 cm.
These planks also come in pieces of 2 m, stacked with an overlap of at least 3 cm.
Slope marking
To make the installation of soft tiles simple, markings in the form of a grid are applied to the lining carpet or flooring. Do this with a painter's cord. Lines along the cornice overhang are applied at a distance equal to 5 rows of tiles, vertically - every meter (the length of one shingle shingles). This marking makes laying easier - the edges are leveled along it, it is easier to track distances.
Valley carpet
On top of the already laid waterproofing carpet, another valley material is laid. It is slightly wider, serves as an additional guarantee of no leaks. Without removing the protective film from the underside, it is laid, cut at the bottom in the overhang area, and the boundaries are marked. Deviating from the mark of 4-5 cm, a special mastic of increased fixation Fixer is applied. It is applied from a syringe, with a roller, then rubbed with a spatula into a strip about 10 cm wide.
A valley carpet is laid out on the mastic, the folds are smoothed out, the edges are pressed. Stepping back from the edge by 3 cm, it is fixed with nails in increments of 20 cm.
Connection to a brick pipe
To bypass pipes and ventilation outlets, patterns are made from a valley carpet or galvanized metal, painted in the appropriate color. The surface of the pipe is plastered, treated with a primer.
When using a valley carpet, a pattern is made so that the material enters the pipe by at least 30 cm, and at least 20 cm should remain on the roof.
The pattern is smeared with bitumen mastic, placed in place. the front part is installed first, then the right and left.
Part of the side elements is wrapped on the front part. Back wall installed last. Its parts go to the side.
At correct installation on the flooring around the pipe, a platform is obtained, completely covered with a valley carpet. Before laying tiles in this place, the surface is smeared with bituminous mastic.
The tile from three sides enters the laid carpet, not reaching the walls of the pipe 8 cm.
The upper part of the junction is sealed with a metal strip, which is attached to the dowels.
All gaps are filled with heat-resistant sealant.
Conclusion of round pipes
For the passage of ventilation pipes there are special passage devices. They are positioned so that the lower edge of the element extends over the tile by at least 2 cm.
Having attached the passage element to the roof, its inner hole is circled. According to the applied contour, a hole is cut in the substrate, into which a round pipe is led out.
The back of the skirt of the passage element is smeared with bituminous mastic, set to the desired position, and additionally fastened around the perimeter with nails. When installing soft tiles, the penetration skirt is smeared with mastic.
The shingle is cut as close as possible to the ledge of the penetration, the gap is then filled with mastic, which is covered with a special UV-protective dressing.
starting strip
The installation of soft tiles begins with the laying of the starting strip. Usually it is a ridge-cornice tile or an ordinary one with cut petals. The first element is laid on one of the edges of the slope, going to the edge of the gable plank. The lower edge of the starting strip is laid on the drip, stepping back from its fold 1.5 cm.
Removed from the back before installation. protective film, the shingle is leveled and laid. Each section of bituminous tiles is fastened with four nails - at the corners of each fragment, stepping back from the edge or perforation line 2-3 cm.
If a cut from an ordinary tile is used as a starting strip, in some part of it there will be no adhesive composition. In these places, the substrate is smeared with bituminous mastic.
Installation of soft ordinary tiles
There is a flexible tile with an applied adhesive mass, protected by a film, and there is a composition that does not require a protective film, although it also fixes the elements well on the roof. When using the first type of material, the film is removed immediately before installation.
Before laying bituminous tiles on the roof, several packs are opened - 5-6 pieces. Laying is carried out from all packs at the same time, taking one shingle from each one in turn. Otherwise, there will be pronounced spots on the roof that differ in color.
The first shingle is laid so that its edge does not reach the edge of the starting strip by 1 cm. In addition adhesive composition, tiles are also fixed with roofing nails. The number of fasteners depends on the angle of the slope:
When installing soft tiles, it is important to drive in nails correctly. Hats should be pressed against the shingle, but not break through its surface.
Valley design
With the help of a paint cord in the valley, an area is marked in which nails cannot be driven in - this is 30 cm from the middle of the valley. Then mark the boundaries of the gutter. They can be from 5 to 15 cm in both directions.
The upper corner, which is turned towards the valley, is cut
When laying ordinary shingles, nails are driven in as close as possible to the line beyond which nails cannot be hammered, and shingles are trimmed to the floor of the gutter laying line. To prevent water from flowing under the material, the upper corner of the tile is cut obliquely, cutting off about 4-5 cm. The loose edge of the tile is smeared with bituminous mastic and fixed with nails.
Decoration of the pediment
On the sides of the slope, the tiles are cut so that 1 cm remains to the edge (protrusion) of the end plank. The upper corner of the shingle is cut in the same way as in the valley - a piece of 4-5 cm obliquely. The edge of the tile is smeared with mastic. A strip of mastic - at least 10 cm. Then it is fixed with nails, like the rest of the elements.
If the flooring in the area of the ridge is made solid, a hole is cut along the ridge, which should not reach the end of the rib 30 cm.
It is fixed with long roofing nails. On a long skate, several elements can be used, they are joined end-to-end. The installed metal ridge is covered with ridge tiles. A protective film is removed from it, then the fragment is fixed with four nails (two on each side). The installation of soft tiles on the ridge goes towards the prevailing winds, one fragment overlaps the other by 3-5 cm.
The ridge tile is a ridge-eaves divided into three parts. A perforation is applied on it, a fragment comes off along it (first bend, press the fold, then tear off).
The same elements can be cut from an ordinary tile. It is divided into three parts, not paying attention to the drawing. At the resulting tiles, a corner is cut off - about 2-3 cm on each side. The middle of the fragment is heated with a building hair dryer on both sides, placed in the middle on a bar and, gently pressing, bend over.
Ribs and kinks
The ribs are covered with ridge tiles. A line is beaten off along the bend at the required distance with a masking cord. The edge of the tile is aligned along it. Laying of flexible tiles on the edge goes from bottom to top, each fragment is glued, then stepping back from the top edge of 2 cm, fixed with nails - two on each side. The next fragment comes to the laid 3-5 cm.
Roofing works, when the technology of laying soft tiles is used, require the successive performance of several tasks.
The materials used for work, including shingles, must comply with applicable standards and regulations.
Before performing work on the installation of the roof, it is necessary to prepare the surface on which the roofing material will then be fixed. It can be either a solid surface or made in the form of a crate. For such purposes, various materials can be used. The most commonly used wood.
To create a solid flooring on which flexible tiles will be mounted, you can use moisture-resistant plywood, moisture-resistant chipboard, tongue-and-groove or edged boards. When creating such a surface, it is necessary to leave a gap of three millimeters between separate elements to compensate for the thermal expansion of parts when the temperature changes. Plywood along the edges must be fixed with self-tapping screws or brushed nails.
In order to ensure long service life wooden elements structures, they must be treated with antipyrines and antiseptics.
Both the wind load and the static load from snowfall have a severe effect on roof elements, including soft tiles. When designing a roof, it is necessary to take into account its height, which should be determined depending on the strength and direction of the prevailing winds, the amount of snow falling. Based on these data, you need to use the rafters of the required thickness and with the correct step. This and also right choice the thickness of the material forming the surface for laying the roof, will allow the roof to withstand the resulting loads. You can be guided by the data given in the table below.
Of great importance for the long-term operation of the roof, including when the technology of laying soft tiles is applied, is the provision temperature regime. This is especially important when under the roof is located residential attic. Such purposes are ventilation and ventilation of the roof. This avoids the appearance excess moisture and mold growth on roof elements. natural ventilation is formed thanks to prudently built-in elements:
- hole for air intake;
- channels or vents for its circulation;
- extraction holes.
Often, the project of the house provides for the siding of the overhangs of the cornice with siding. In this case, it is necessary to additionally install ventilation grilles or so-called soffit strips. They provide air to the vents. If the sheathing is done with clapboard, then ventilation can be provided in accordance with the figure below.
The size of the channels for air circulation is determined by the slope of the roof slopes. At an inclination angle of more than 20 degrees, the air ducts must have a height of at least five centimeters. With an angle of inclination less than 20 degrees, this height should be equal to eight centimeters.
Exhaust elements can be made in the upper part of the roof as follows:
- grate on the exhaust openings on the side parts of the roof;
- ridge aerator;
- hood with access to the roof.
Carrying out the installation of the underlayment
It is carried out to exclude possible roof leaks.
According to current regulations, if the roof slope is more than eighteen degrees (1: 3), an additional roll hydro insulating material located along the end and cornice edges of the roof, which are considered the places of the most probable penetration of moisture, to a width of at least 40.0 cm from the edge. It is best to bring this material to the surface of the facade. The ridge of the roof is also additionally covered with insulation for a value of at least 25.0 cm on each side.
If the slope of the roof is from twelve to eighteen degrees, an additional layer under the soft tiles is laid over the entire surface of the roof slope. This operation is performed from the bottom up with an overlap between the layers. The fastening of the rolled material is carried out with special galvanized nails with an enlarged head every 20.0 cm. The joints are additionally treated with bituminous mastic.
Before performing work on the installation of the base, if it is provided for by the project, it is necessary to attach hooks to the rafters for the installation of a suspended drainage system.
Laying end, cornice, parts and valleys
At the roof, overhangs must be reinforced with metal end and cornice strips on top of the lining layer. The slats are laid with an overlap, roofing nails are used for their fastening with a step of no more than 12 cm.
Installation of tiles begins with the removal of the protective film, each tile is nailed to the base. A special valley carpet is laid in the valleys. All roll materials are additionally attached to the base along the edges with nails and processed with bituminous mastic.
Laying shingles
If a dormer window is provided, then when installing flexible tiles, it is necessary to mark the slope to ensure proper joining of the shingles after the window.
To ensure that the color of the roof is uniform during laying, tiles are used simultaneously from several packages. Bituminous tiles are laid in rows, from the edge of the roof up to the ridge. Work begins from the bottom of the slope from the center of the eaves in the direction of the gables.
The initial row is mounted in such a way as to ensure the distance between the lower edge of the tile petals and the beginning of the ridge/cornice tiles is 2.0-3.0 cm. row. Cut tiles along the edge gable cornice and treated with bituminous glue to a width of ten centimeters.
Shingles fixing
Laying of flexible tiles begins by removing the protective film from the shingles, then each tile is attached to the base with nails, usually 4-5 pcs. The next layer breaks through the previous one too.
Later, under the influence solar heat tiles will stick together and stick to the crate.
Connections
Where the roof slope joins the wall, a triangular batten is nailed, and soft tiles are placed on it. A strip of a valley carpet is located on top and is glued with bituminous mastic. The run-out of the strip on the wall should be at least 30.0 cm, and in areas with heavy snowfalls, the run-in should be increased. From above, the junction is lined with a metal apron and treated with bituminous mastic.
Chimney outlets are sealed in a similar way, see the figure below.
With a cross section of a brick pipe of more than 0.5x0.5 m and its location across the slope, in order to avoid the accumulation of snow behind the pipe, it is desirable to arrange a groove.
To conduct antennas, communication pipes through the roof and seal the roof passages, special passage elements for bituminous tiles are used, which are fixed with nails.
The rows of soft tiles laid on the so-called penetration are cut off and then glued to the flange with bituminous mastic. Then, the desired roof outlet is mounted on the passage element.
For this, ridge tiles are used. It is divided into three parts according to the perforation present on it, it is laid with an overlap of five cm. The ridge tile is located with the short side along the slope line.
Work on the installation of soft tiles is carried out in a warm, dry time.
Any roofing material needs quality styling regardless of its cost and characteristics. Bituminous tiles are one of the most budgetary proposals, however, they can also provide reliable protection of the house from moisture, subject to the installation technology. In this article, we will tell you everything you need to know for installing shingles with your own hands.
Bituminous shingles are one of the most popular roofing materials mainly due to their low cost and good protective performance. It is appreciated not only by professional builders, but also by self-taught people, since you can easily handle the installation on your own, even without special equipment. Bituminous shingles, also known as shingles, unlike small-wave ondulin, are characterized by greater aesthetics and versatility. However, these materials still have much in common in terms of manufacturing technology and composition. The tile is unpretentious at installation and operation. Over time, it tends to "bloom", but this only gives it a more noble appearance and does not affect its defensive abilities in any way. The material is highly flexible and ductile. But although the installation of shingles does not require special equipment and professional skills, you still need to know the specifics of the process. So, it can be used as a roofing material only when the roof has a slope of at least 12 °. On a more gentle slope, water will inevitably stagnate at the joints of the material, gradually destroying the coating and seeping into the roofing pie. The installation is also affected by the weather. It is clear that it is pointless to make a roof when it is raining outside. The performance characteristics of shingles respond to temperature fluctuations. It can be laid only if the air temperature is from + 5C. When it is cold outside, bituminous shingles lose their flexibility and elasticity, so the laying result will be of poor quality. If you still need to urgently make a bituminous roof in the cold season, soak the tiles in a warm room for several hours, and then install them on the roof as quickly as possible. It is also acceptable to use a hot air burner.
Material characteristicsSoft bituminous tiles are durable and inexpensive roofing, characterized by good protective performance and aesthetics. Due to its low weight, it does not create a strong load on floors and rafter beams, therefore it helps to save on construction (the truss system can be made from beams of a smaller section). Installation takes a minimum of time and effort, and any home master can handle it. Bituminous shingle, in fact, is a modified colored roofing material, which was given a certain shape, reminiscent of ordinary tiles. The thickness of a bituminous tile sheet can vary from 3 to 5 mm, the service life reaches 30-40 years. The structure determines the quality of the material. Basically, the shingle consists of 5 layers, it may or may not have an adhesive coating.
Characteristics of shingles:
In addition to the main advantages that bituminous shingles have, it is distinguished by one more thing - the roof covered with it can be easily modified, since the dismantling of shingles is even faster and easier than installation. For example, if you want to make a roof window, you only need to remove a few "tiles", and not remove the entire cover. Styling accessoriesFor laying a soft roof, one bituminous tile is not enough, it is necessary to use various components. So, it is very important to use aerators to fully ventilate the interior of the roofing pie. Without them, condensation will form on the thermal insulation layer, which will negate all the properties of the insulation. Aerators are placed in a roof slope or on a ridge. In stores, you can find two types of aerators: for roofs with gentle slopes and for use in regions with heavy rainfall.
In addition to aerators, you will need valley and ridge elements. They have a structure similar to tiles, but without a decorative frame. They are fixed in areas of the roof that are most susceptible to damage, for example, on skates, valleys, overhangs and around chimneys. To protect the overhangs, special PVC profiles are also used, fixing them on the eaves under the tiles. They do not allow water from the gutters to penetrate inside and play the role of a tin finish. If the house is located in a mountainous area or a region with heavy snowfalls, snow retainers should be used. Bituminous tile installationIn order for the installation of shingles to be successful, they must be properly transported and stored. To do this, choose a cool and shady place. Do not lay the shingle on open ground - be sure to put foil or wood under it. Position the shingles front side up and do not stack pallets on top of each other. Deliver material to the roof in small batches.
Foundation preparationBefore laying bituminous tiles, it is necessary to prepare the surface - to create a solid or lattice base. In most cases, the crate is made of wooden slats or planed pine boards 20-25 mm thick. For a solid base, choose moisture-resistant plywood, chipboard or boards, fixing them with self-tapping screws or long nails. At the same time, keep in mind that small gaps of a few millimeters should be left between the elements in case of natural wood movements. No gaps can be dispensed with only if all the lumber has been subjected to technical drying.
The thickness of the boards of the crate is determined by the frequency of installation of the rafters. If it is 60 cm, then the thickness of the crate will be 20 mm, but if the rafters are located every 90 cm, the thickness of the crate should be increased to 23 mm, otherwise it will sag under the weight of the roofing cake. Ventilation of the under-roof spaceThe technology of laying bituminous tiles provides for ventilation of the under-roof space. This factor depends on the life of all layers of the cake and roof frame. Ventilation is provided by a ridge beam, which is mounted on a special ribbed profile. But it happens that it is not enough and it is necessary to install additional ventilation elements. They are ribbed plastic profiles installed with certain step. If the slope is 15-40°, the ventilation area is the area of the slopes / 300. If from 41 ° to 85 ° - the roof area / 600. For example, the total area is 50 m², the slope is 35 °, the cross section of the ventilation element is 258 cm². Then the ventilation area will be equal to 50\300 = 0.167 m² (1670 cm²), and the required number of elements will be 1670\258 = 5.
On skates, half as many ventilation elements should be installed as on slopes. In our case, you can put 3 pieces on the skate. Roof liningWhen working with the lining layer, its operational purpose should be taken into account - protection from moisture in case of possible leaks. There are certain laying standards that state that if the roof has a slope of 18°, then the waterproofing lining should be laid parallel to the eaves and ends, since these are the most vulnerable areas. Waterproofing must be laid no further than 40 cm from the edge of the roof, but it would be best to bring it to the very facade. You should also protect the ridge beam from leaks by laying the lining so that it captures at least 25 cm on each side of the ridge.
For shoos with a small slope, things are somewhat different. So, if it is from 12 ° to 18 °, then the waterproofing lining must be laid over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe roof, moving from bottom to top and overlapping the layers with each other. To fix the lining, galvanized nails with a wide hat are used. The installation step of the fasteners is usually 20 cm. Tiling: layingFinally, when everything preparatory work completed, you can start laying shingles. Often, at the same time, home-grown craftsmen make the same mistake - they first stack the material from one package, then open another, spend it, etc. This leads to the fact that the roof becomes "pockmarked" - tiles from different batches may differ in shade. It is clear that you cannot cover the entire roof with one package, so open several of them at once before work. As a result, the roof surface will turn out to be heterogeneous, but more or less uniform, which will give it uniqueness and visual volume.
Technology for creating a roof from bituminous tiles:  Roof tilesOften, when laying shingles, many craftsmen face difficulties in the form of various items on the roof. How to bypass them correctly so as not to violate the integrity of the coating? If a chimney sticks out of the roof, how to arrange its adjoining? In this place there will always be a gap through which moisture will penetrate under the coating.
To prevent this, you should know how to properly attach the material:
As you can see, there is nothing complicated in laying shingles. It is only necessary to adhere to the technology and observe the rules of personal safety when working at height. By the way, if after a long time the tiles are destroyed or you just want to change the color of the roof, you can safely mount a new shingle on top of the old coating. Bituminous tiles: photo
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Soft roofing is a type of coating that has long been familiar to most people. Not so long ago, one of the most widely used materials for roofing various designs was an ordinary roofing material, which also belongs to this category of roofing. In fairness, it is worth noting that the old roofing felt was not particularly durable and high performance, so it needed periodic repairs.
Today, thanks to new technologies that have appeared, soft roofing material has undergone significant modernization. It is produced in various options, including in the form of bituminous tiles. Such coatings already have long service life, combine high quality, excellent waterproofing characteristics and a very elegant appearance. Therefore, many do not even realize that a modern soft roof is still the same roofing material, only produced in improved variations.
The technology of laying a soft roof made of bituminous tiles is quite complicated and requires a large number various materials, since the design of such a coating consists of several layers, and therefore deserved the name "roofing cake". Therefore, if it is decided to make an independent installation of a coating from this material, it is necessary to carefully study all the recommendations that should be followed when performing work.
Before deciding on the choice of a soft roof, it is necessary to have an idea about this material, evaluate its advantages and disadvantages.
Advantages of soft roofs
There are several points that can be called the disadvantages of this roofing material, but, to be honest, they are very conditional. So, such “cons” include:
- A rather complicated installation of a “roofing pie”, requiring strict adherence to all technological recommendations.
- Any soft roof is laid only on a solid solid base. And this, in turn, will additional work and, consequently, costs.
However, as you can see, there are much fewer negative sides in the arrangement of a soft roof, and therefore, more and more often, the owners of mansions opt for it.
Various types of soft roofs
Soft roofs include several types of materials that can be easily found on the Russian market - these are flexible bituminous tiles, rolled soft roofing various types, and euroslate (ondulin).
Roll soft roof
Roll roofing materials are divided according to several criteria. So, the following types of coatings are produced:
- Baseless and having a base for coating.
- basis for roofing roll materials can serve - fiberglass, asbestos fiber, cardboard, polymers, or several materials can be used for it in combination.
- Roofing material can be equipped with various protective layers - fine-grained or coarse-grained mineral chips, dust or flake powder.
In addition, roll coatings can be divided according to the type of base and installation method:
- Self-adhesive coatings. Such a material has a layer of adhesive applied to the back of the web and protected by a special membrane, which is removed immediately before the installation of the coating.
- Adhesive sheets. These coatings are glued to the mastic different ways called hot and cold. But in any case, the material during installation is heated to a certain temperature.
- Welded coatings. This type of coating is fixed to the roof surface using gas burners. The flame of the burner melts the composition applied to the back of the soft roof material, after which the coating is rolled. This type of coating, correctly laid on the prepared roof surface, makes it practically airtight and resistant to leaks. In addition, this type of material is considered the most durable of all roll options.
Membrane roll roofing
Membrane coating is a high-tech material that can be made on various bases: polyvinyl chloride (PVC), synthetic rubber (EPDM), thermoplastic polyolefin (TPO).
- The PVC membrane, reinforced with ester fiber and containing plasticizers, has high elasticity and resistance to temperature extremes. In addition, the material does not fade in the sun, is fire resistant, is available in a range of colors, and is also easily and quickly mounted on the surface. However, this coating has its drawbacks - it is not resistant to organic solvents, to bitumen and oils. In addition, when heated, the PVC coating is capable of releasing substances toxic to humans into the air, since it is not environmentally friendly.
- EPDM membranes, made on the basis of rubber and reinforced with polyester meshes, have high elasticity and resistance to various solvents.
The negative qualities of this material can be called the fact that its installation is carried out with the help of glue, and joints over time, under the influence external factors, may diverge, so the roof will begin to leak, as the coating will lose its tightness.
- TPO membranes based on thermoplastic polyolefin may or may not be reinforced. For the reinforcement of this material, polyester or fiberglass is used. The sheets of material are welded together using hot air, and a sufficiently strong and reliable seam is formed at the welding site. Therefore, the coating has a long service life, high strength and resistance to negative temperatures, reaching up to -60 degrees.
The disadvantages of such a coating include its low elasticity and rather high cost compared to other membrane materials.
Briefly - about the principles of laying membrane roofing material
There are four main installation methods membrane roofing- these are ballast fixation, mechanical fastening, gluing and hot air welding.
- Ballast anchoring used if the roof has a slight slope, not exceeding 15˚.
In this case, the canvas is laid on concrete base flat roof or on a layer of laid thermal insulation. Then the material is stretched, fixed along the entire perimeter, the joints of the sheets are connected by welding or special glue.
Then, a ballast of pebbles, gravel or crushed stone is laid on top of the membrane.
- Mechanical fastening made in the event that the supporting structure is not designed for the weight of the ballast.
The basis for mounting the membrane in this way can be wood, concrete, profiled sheets, as well as any other material.
A layer is laid on the base and fixed insulation material. Most often, high-density mineral basalt wool, specially designed for this application, is used for this, on top of which the membrane is spread and fixed. To fix materials to the base, disk or telescopic fasteners are used, which are installed at the joints of sheets overlapped by 80÷100 mm.
- Membrane sticking It is made on the high-quality glue mixes differing in good durability. The material is glued only around the perimeter of the sheet, at the joints and in problem areas, for example, around chimneys, on ribs, valleys, etc.
- Hot air membrane welding- this way more often It is mainly used for fastening sheets of membranes.
The work is carried out with the help of a special apparatus, which compresses two overlapping sheets with the help of a roller and hot air, the temperature of which reaches 600 ˚С. The welded joint can be from 20 to 100 mm wide, which ensures the reliability of the connection and its guaranteed sealing.
Euroslate or Ondulin
Another option for roofing material, which can also be classified as soft roofing, is ondulin or euroslate. This is a lightweight and reliable wave-like material made from a bitumen-fiber mixture with the addition of mineral and polymer additives. Roofing sheets are easy to install and usually have a very long service life. The material is produced in various shades of soothing tones, from which you can always choose the one suitable for a particular facade design.
Installation of this material can be carried out not only on a solid base, but also on a crate made of boards 150 ÷ 170 mm wide, fixed in increments of 200 ÷ 250 mm.
Ondulin is the only material from the category of soft roofing that has a sufficiently rigid relief structure, and therefore can be fixed to the crate.
Installation of ondulin, like any undulating roofing material, is carried out from the eaves. The upper rows are laid with an overlap on the lower ones by 250 ÷ 300 mm, and adjacent sheets located in the same row are mounted overlapping, on one wave. Ondulin is fastened with special screws with waterproofing gaskets and special covers. They are screwed into each crest of the wave along the cornice and ridge, and in the middle part of the slope - with a step through two ÷ three waves.
Flexible shingles
Bituminous tiles can be safely attributed to the most popular types of soft roofing, as it is distinguished by its aesthetic appearance, a variety of shades and shapes, strength and durability.
The tile is made on a fiberglass basis, which is impregnated with high-quality bitumen, on top of which mineral chips of various colors are applied. The upper mineral spraying performs not only a decorative function, but also a protective one, as it prevents mechanical damage to the softer lower layers. Tiles are used to cover houses with pitched roofs of any size and configuration of any degree of complexity.
Since bituminous tiles are the most demanded material from the category of soft roofing, its installation will be considered in more detail.
Installation of a roof with bituminous tiles
To begin with, it is worth understanding the roofing "pie", which must be mounted under the flooring of soft tiles. It is very important to do this work correctly, otherwise the roof will be deprived of reliability and will not last a long time, and it will be impossible to maintain a comfortable microclimate in the rooms under it.
Approximate work sequence
In order to follow the sequence of installation of all elements, it is best to compile a list of all works in order:
- The first step is the installation of the truss system.
- Further, from the side of the attic, a vapor barrier membrane is fixed to the rafters.
- On top of the vapor barrier, also from the side of the attic, a crate of timber is fixed to the rafters. It is needed for subsequent installation. inner lining attic space, fixing the membrane and creating a rigid base for laying insulation.
- Next, there is laying between rafter legs insulating mats. Usually mineral basalt wool is used for this.
- The insulation is covered with a waterproofing roofing membrane. It is fixed to the rafters.
- The membrane is pressed against the rafter legs with counter beams.
- Next, the installation of a sparse crate follows - the basis for the flooring of a solid base.
- Sheets of moisture-resistant plywood or OSB are fixed on the crate.
- A solid plywood crate is covered with a lining carpet.
- Next, the laying of soft bituminous tiles is underway.
- Fixing the drainage system, sheathing the cornice overhang with an anti-mosquito net, and then lining or PVC spotlights can be carried out at various stages of installation work - as it will be more convenient for the craftsmen.
Calculations of the lathing system for a soft roof
Now, knowing the approximate sequence of installation of the "roofing pie", there is a need to consider them in more detail, since there are nuances that are important to take into account when performing these rather complex technological operations.
The first thing to determine is what parameters the elements of the rafter system and the batten should have, and in what step they are set.
Let's start with the rafters. The cross section of the beam from which they are made depends on the steepness of the slope, possible external loads on the roof and from the installation step of the rafter legs. The dependence is expressed as follows.
External loads include the weight of the structure itself, with insulation, crate and roofing material, the mass of possible snow drifts in winter time and the effect of the winds. Both snow and wind loads strongly depend on the steepness of the slope, and with an increase in the angle of inclination, the significance of the snow load gradually decreases, but the wind load increases.
The total load expressed in kilograms per square meter, should be evenly distributed on the rafter legs. And this, in turn, depends on the step of their installation - the more often they are located, the less load falls on each linear meter of the rafter beam, and the smaller its cross section can be. If the value of the distributed load is known, then it is easy to determine the parameters of the required material from the table.
There is a rather complex physical and mathematical algorithm for calculating the distributed load on the rafter legs. But we will not bore the reader with an abundance of formulas and tables, but we will suggest using a convenient calculator. The initial data for the calculation will be:
— Region of construction;
- The steepness of the roof slope, degrees;
— Material roofing;
- Features of the location of the house on the ground and its height.
In the last paragraph of the calculator, it will be necessary to put down the estimated installation step of the rafters. By changing this value up or down, you can determine the optimal load distribution. And then, according to the table, knowing the length of the rafter, select the required section of the beam (log).
The calculator is accompanied by two diagram maps, which make it possible to determine the zones of the construction region by the level of snow and wind load.
Calculator for calculating the distributed load on the rafter legs
So, to begin with, according to the maps and schemes, we determine the zones:
Now we substitute the known values \u200b\u200bin the calculator - and we get the result
