Ceiling insulation of the house. Ceiling insulation in a private house. Sprayable and bulk options

The fact that in private houses with a "cold" roof it is necessary to insulate the ceiling on the top floor, developers do not need to be persuaded. The question is different: how to make it right with your own hands, without overpaying extra money for materials. Finding out the answer will help you step by step guide outlined in this article. Here we will explain how to insulate the ceiling from the side of the attic (or room) and what measures to take so that there is no condensation.

The better to insulate attic floors

The range of materials for ceiling thermal insulation is so wide that it is not easy for an ordinary homeowner to make a choice. Judge for yourself:

mineral wool based on fiberglass and basalt fiber;
polymeric heaters - polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam;
bulk building materials - vermiculite, expanded clay;
folk remedies - sawdust, straw or reeds (can be used mixed with clay);
a relatively new cellulose-based insulator - ecowool.

It looks like applying ecowool

Comparing heaters, one cannot say that one is bad and the other is good. They differ greatly in properties, price and scope. An important role is played by the budget allocated by the developer for the thermal insulation of the ceilings of a private house or cottage. Therefore, it is worth considering each group of materials separately.

Mineral wool products

These porous building materials are produced in the form of plates and rolls, the density varies between 35-150 kg / m3. We list their features:

Basalt mineral wool does not burn at all and calmly withstands temperatures up to 600 ° C, and upon further heating it is destroyed without ignition. The heat resistance limit of glass wool is 200 ° C, so it is considered a slow-burning substance.
Both insulators pass water vapor well and are able to absorb moisture, as a result of which they lose their thermal insulation properties.
In terms of cost, cotton wool occupies a middle position between cheap polystyrene foam and more expensive polystyrene foam.
The thermal conductivity of mineral wool products depends on their density. The average value is 0.045 W / m ° C, this is a rather high figure.
Dense slabs are rarely eaten by rodents.

Basalt wool slabs

Reference. Glass wool is prohibited by regulations in most countries for indoor use, as it is unsafe for the health of residents of residential buildings. The most famous manufacturers are the brands Ursa (Ursa) and Izover (Izover).

The main scope of both types of mineral wool is wooden and frame houses. Unlike polymer insulating materials, it allows the wood to "breathe" and not rot from moisture, since it has a high vapor permeability. At the same time, fibrous insulation requires protection from direct moisture from the outside.

Fiberglass boards and rolls can be used for insulation of ceilings from the outside, from the side of a cold attic. stone wool can be used from inside buildings, but at the same time hermetically cover it with a vapor barrier film.

Warm polymers

By properties, this group of heaters is the exact opposite of mineral wool. Styrofoam and extruded polystyrene foam, well known under the name Penoplex (brand name), is capable of igniting and burning, no matter what the manufacturers claim. And only polyurethane, applied mechanically in the form of foam, can withstand fire for no longer than 30 minutes, and then collapses. At the same time, the materials practically do not let steam through and do not lose their properties when wet.

This is how polyurethane foam is sprayed

Note. Styrofoam is still permeable to moisture, although it passes it in smaller quantities than cotton wool.

The thermal insulation characteristics of polymers are the best among all heaters:

polystyrene - 0.04 W / m ° C;
extruded polystyrene foam - 0.035 W / m ° C;
polyurethane foam - 0.03 W / m ° C.

Heaters are not good friends with wood, which often leads to its decay at the point of contact. Therefore, in wooden dwellings and steam rooms of baths with high humidity, their use is allowed together with an active supply and exhaust ventilation device. Materials are best combined with concrete ceilings and basement ceilings.

Styrofoam is the cheapest, but inferior in durability, in addition, mice love to gnaw it. Foamed polyurethane is also inexpensive, but requires the expense of applying with specialized equipment. Expanded polystyrene occupies an average position in terms of cost, and in terms of practicality - the first. It is strong and durable, moreover, it is easily mounted on ceilings with your own hands, including from inside the premises.

Here you can see that Penoplex is simply screwed with self-tapping screws

Other heaters

We have combined these building materials into a common group according to one feature - loose structure. The indicators of their thermal conductivity are shown in the table:

Bulk heaters are popular due to their low cost (except for vermiculite) and ease of use. But one must understand that in temperate latitudes the calculated layer of the same expanded clay must be at least 40 cm, otherwise the thermal insulation will be mediocre. It is not always possible to load the ceiling with such a mass.

Straw is not inferior to polystyrene in terms of thermal conductivity, but it is stored in dry form for only a few years. To extend the service life, it is customary to mix it with clay, but then the insulating properties are reduced, as can be seen from the table. A compromise option is small sawdust, poured in a thick layer.

Reference. All organic heaters are very fond of rodents. They appear at the beginning of the cold period and make nests for the winter in a layer of sawdust or adobe.

It turns out that these budget materials can be used for floor insulation, but with reservations. Vermiculite is expensive, and it makes sense to fill up expanded clay only in the southern regions. To use sawdust, you need to take measures to combat rodents, for example, install ultrasonic repellers.

Determining the thickness of the thermal insulation

When we figured out how to insulate the ceiling, it is necessary to find out the thickness of the insulating layer. Ideally, such calculations should be performed by design engineers using a rather complex technique. It takes into account the thermal conductivity of all construction materials, up to plasterboard cladding.

We offer a simpler method that allows you to determine the thickness of the insulation with acceptable accuracy using a simple formula. The algorithm of actions is as follows:

Find out the exact thermal conductivity λ (W/m°C) of the selected material or take the value shown in the table below.
Refer to the building regulations for your country of residence to find out the minimum allowable heat transfer resistance R (m²°C/W) for floors in a particular region.
Calculate the thickness of the insulation in meters using the formula δ = R x λ.

Example. According to SNiP, floor insulation in Moscow should provide heat transfer resistance R = 4.15 m² ° C / W. If foam plastic with a thermal conductivity of λ = 0.04 W / m ° C is laid on the ceiling, a thickness of δ = 4.15 x 0.04 = 0.166 m or rounded 170 mm will be required. The thinnest layer will come out of polyurethane foam - 125 mm, and the thickest - from expanded clay (415 mm).

How to make insulation from the attic

External thermal insulation of building structures is considered correct, since it eliminates the fight against condensate that can form at the junction of the ceiling material with insulation. When the latter is located on the cold side, water vapor from the living quarters cannot get into its thickness and condense, causing mold to appear.

To block the path of a couple to the attic, the first layer in the "pie" is an ordinary dense film, as shown in the diagram. Thermal insulation is laid on top of it, and a crate is knocked out from below for interior decoration ceiling. Above the insulation, you need to make a ventilation gap (air), and then cover it with a waterproofing membrane that allows moisture to pass only in one direction - out.

Note. The gap between the insulation layer and the membrane is necessary to remove the condensate formed due to the dew point. Without ventilation, moisture will accumulate in the insulation, reducing its ability to withstand the cold. For this, natural ventilation is organized under the roof.

Ceiling insulation in the attic pitched roof performed using the following technology:

The vapor barrier film is attached to the floor beams from the bottom with brackets or with the help of battens. If the ceilings are already hemmed and lined, then lay the film on the floor of the attic, bypassing the boards, as shown in the photo above.
Lay between the beams a row of slab or roll insulation. If the pitch of the rafters does not match the width of the insulation, cut the latter accurately to size between the boards.
When it is necessary to make 2 or 3 layers, lay the plates apart (with the overlapping of the lower joints) and the beams themselves. Soft roll material do not tamp or crush, it should be completely straightened.
If the level of thermal insulation turned out to be lower than the roofing boards, then the ventilation air is ready. It remains to cover the entire area with a diffusion membrane, pin the bars of the counter-lattice and the boardwalk.
The reverse situation: the insulation is above the level of the beams. Then they need to be built up with wooden blocks, fixing the latter across the boards.

The device of expanded clay or sawdust insulating layer is also made using vapor barrier films. The material is poured between the beams to the calculated height, leveled and covered with a membrane. It is not necessary to compact sawdust, so as not to worsen their thermal insulation properties.

Concrete floor under pitched roof insulated using the same technology. The process of thermal insulation is shown in more detail in the video:

Sheathing from the inside

It is not always technically possible to independently perform external thermal insulation coatings. There are many examples: apartments on the top floors, loggias with balconies, attics of private houses. In these cases, there is nothing left but to insulate the ceiling from the inside. So feel free to proceed with the preparation - seal all the cracks with mounting foam, treat the wood with an antiseptic, and concrete with an appropriate primer.

There are 2 ways of internal insulation of the coating:

Installation board material- polystyrene or basalt wool - on glue, followed by fixing with dowels, if we are talking about a concrete surface.
Installation of suspended ceilings with laying insulation under the cladding.

In the first option, mineral wool or polystyrene boards are attached to the ceiling with an adhesive mixture or mounting foam so that the joints of adjacent rows do not coincide. After the glue hardens, each element is additionally fixed with dowels in the form of fungi, as shown in the photo. From below, the insulation is closed with vapor insulation, after which it is mounted top coat- plaster or stretch ceiling.

In the second case, a metal or wooden frame is attached to the ceiling with a spacing of rails equal to the width of the insulation (usually 600 mm). The lower plane of the frame should be separated from the ceiling by the thickness of the insulation or be lower. Then a rolled mineral wool is taken and inserted between the slats by surprise with additional fixation with dowels, the expanded polystyrene plates sit on the glue. Next - vapor barrier and finishing.

Conclusion

Fulfilling self-insulation ceilings, it is important not to confuse vapor and waterproofing films, but put the superdiffusion membrane correctly - with the marked side up. This is the only difficult moment in the whole procedure, the rest of the work is quite simple. The last nuance: after unpacking the mineral wool roll, let it straighten out and no longer compress during installation: this is the working state of the material.

Structural engineer with over 8 years experience in construction.
Graduated from East Ukrainian National University them. Vladimir Dal with a degree in Electronic Industry Equipment in 2011.

Any owner strives to create comfortable living in his home. To do this, periodically monitors possible heat loss, due to which room temperature may decrease and energy use may increase. Window and doorways are the main conductors of cold air.

As a rule, they are the first to be replaced by homeowners with quality products. Many rushed to insulate the walls, the foundation. And about the ceiling, for some reason, they do not always remember. And in vain! According to the laws of physics, heat loss due to poor-quality ceilings can be over 20 percent. The barrier created at the top will prevent heat from escaping, and the heaters will not have to heat the environment.

Ways to insulate the ceiling in a private house include both indoor work and in the attic. These works to strengthen the energy protection of the house are equivalent, so each owner can choose a convenient option for themselves.

The difference between the methods lies in the installation technology and the materials used:

Insulation of the ceiling from the inside is accompanied by subsequent surface finishing with drywall or other suspended structures. It should be noted that the height of the room after installation will decrease from 10 to 25 cm. The material used must have vapor-permeable properties. These can be: mineral or basalt wool, penofol.
External insulation of the ceiling is carried out in the attic. A more economical and profitable option, as it does not require further finishing works if the use of an attic room is not provided. It is recommended to use a vapor barrier material to prevent moisture from reaching the ceiling. Most often used: foam, penoizol, mineral wool, expanded clay.

The choice of insulation

The modern construction market offers a huge amount of materials for ceiling insulation. Even expanded clay, sawdust, hay, clay and slag are used, which have a number of significant disadvantages among their advantages. The choice must meet the requirements of the technology.

The main requirements that a heater must meet:

do not emit toxic substances;
be resistant to moisture;
have a low flammability.

Popular materials for home energy saving work

Mineral wool in the form of sheets or rolls is widely used in construction work. The characteristic of the heater meets technical requirements thermal insulation. The use in residential premises is dictated by the absence of toxic substances in the composition and excellent thermal insulation properties. Mineral wool has components of limestone, basalt, diabase and dolomite.

Rocks endow the material with valuable qualities:

low degree of thermal conductivity;
resistance to temperature changes;
lack of flammability;
ecological feature.

And yet the material has disadvantages:

ability to absorb moisture;
during installation, be sure to use a waterproofing film;
additionally process the seams of the joints with mounting foam for better sealing;
for fixing the insulation, a crate is made of wooden beam or profiles;
relatively short service life (10-15 years).

Penofol consists of interlayers of polyethylene foam and aluminum foil. Combines the properties of several insulating materials with a fairly wide range of applications. Represents the basis in the innovative decoration of balconies and loggias.

It has low thermal conductivity, which will save energy. Protective qualities will prevent the penetration of cold air, drafts and radon into the room. In summer, penofol will help keep the house cool, create a comfortable microclimate.

The light weight of the material makes installation convenient, and the structure of the structure is not weighed down. To work with penofol you will need minimal amount improvised means: a construction knife, adhesive tape and liquid nails.

Along with the advantages, there are also disadvantages:

flexible surface means finishing the ceiling suspended structure with frame;
it is problematic to fix the material on some surfaces;
to increase thermal protection, it is recommended to use mineral wool.

Expanded polystyrene is known to many more as polystyrene. Easy-to-use material creates a strong protection of heat in the room, without harming the health of the household. With proper installation, it fully justifies the costs and retains its qualities for a long time.

The advantages are:

moisture resistance;
good thermal conductivity;
light weight, excluding structural reinforcement;
simple installation.

The disadvantages include:

easy flammability;
instability to the effects of ultraviolet rays and solvents;
low resistance to mechanical damage.

Penoizol is a liquid foamed foam. To insulate the ceiling from the outside, it is necessary to use special equipment for applying a binder to the surface.

Material advantages:

affordable price;
thermal insulation qualities;
resistance to ignition;
easily fills hard-to-reach places;
safe operation.

Flaws:

lack of special equipment excludes self-assembly;
low resistance to mechanical stress;
the first 2-3 weeks after installation, it evaporates a small amount of a toxic substance;
ability to absorb moisture.

Do-it-yourself warming

If stick technological process and do right choice material, installation is quite capable of doing it yourself.

Insulation of the ceiling inside the room using mineral wool

To complete the work, you will need material:

mineral wool;
metal profiles or wooden blocks 150x30 mm;
hardware;
vapor barrier film;
staples;
mounting foam;
dowels with a wide hat;
drywall.

Set of tools:

perforator;
roulette;
hammer;
screwdriver;
scissors;
construction knife.

Installation steps

On the ceiling, make a crate of their wooden bars or a metal profile in increments of 50 cm.
Cut the insulation to the size of the crate cell with an increase of 2 cm on the sides.
Lay mineral wool in the cells without tamping it.
Treat the joints of the insulation with mounting foam for sealing. The foam will also serve as resistance to the shrinkage of the insulation.
Cover the surface with a vapor barrier film. The joints of the material should overlap by 10 cm. Using staples, fix the film to the crate.
Using drywall sheets finish the ceiling.

Ceiling insulation in the attic using foam

Materials required for installation:

foam sheets 40 mm thick;
mounting foam;
OSB sheets 15-18 mm;
hardware.

Tools:

drill;
hacksaw;
hammer;
metalwork knife;
screwdriver.

Installation steps

Clear the attic of debris. If there are damaged spots or holes, repair them with a cement or gypsum mixture.
Put the foam on the surface, tightly docking with each other.
Process the connecting seams with mounting foam.
Cover the top with OSB sheets (15-18 mm) or boards.

If you plan to use the attic as an attic, the insulated surface must be filled cement screed, at least 5 cm thick. Reinforcing mesh must be used.

Insulation in the attic using foam sheets must be supplemented with a finish in the form of a screed or wooden planks. Unprotected foam is subject to mechanical damage that will affect its functionality.
Thermal insulation from the outside is easier and more economical.
Mineral wool must not be compressed. Losing structure, it loses valuable properties.
Built-in lamps in the insulated ceiling should be mounted with a fence from the material with plasterboard inserts at a distance of 2-3 cm.
To increase thermal protection, you can lay the attic in a complex way: with foam and mineral wool. Layers of insulation should resemble brickwork.
Use a marked film for vapor barrier. The use of ordinary polyethylene is not allowed.
When using penofol for insulation in the attic, lay the foil down.

The heat loss of a room in winter is about 15%, so the question of how to insulate and how to insulate should always be serious. And there are enough nuances in this matter.

If you took up this work with your own hands, choose a heater especially carefully. Virtually any mixture is suitable for insulating the ceiling from the inside, and in addition, all types of tile and polymer materials. And these, in turn, include polystyrene foam, and penoplex.

Work outside can be carried out using the following materials:

Expanded clay. It is a clay-based material that is considered to be highly fire resistant. Looks like gravel. It has good heat and sound insulation. Ceiling insulation with expanded clay not only protects against heat loss a private house- rodents will not start in expanded clay.
Styrofoam. And this material is resistant to the influence of microorganisms, heat saving is excellent. Of the minuses - foam, unfortunately, is flammable.
Ecowool - it is a cellulose lightweight insulation, safe for human health. Very often they insulate the ceiling in a wooden building, both old and new. Suitable for insulation of the ceiling of a residential building and industrial premises.
Mineral wool. If you have chosen to insulate it, prepare as best as possible for work. Respirators and goggles are required. It is used less often in a wooden house, as it is more suitable for a concrete ceiling.

Well, the insulation itself can take place in two ways.

Ways to insulate the ceiling in a private house

You can insulate the ceiling surface directly inside the room, or you can also in the attic, that is, from the outside. The ceiling insulated inside can only be such if the height of the ceilings allows this procedure to be carried out.

Since the process consists of:

Laying a layer of vapor barrier and waterproofing;
Laying a layer of insulation;
Sheathing GKL or facing board.

This whole "sandwich" can take from 15 to 40-45 cm of the height of the room. Experts advise making internal insulation if the attic is used as a warehouse. And also in the event that communication systems are carried out in the attic. It can be air outlets and electrical cables.

There are more requirements for insulation inside and more work must be done carefully and accurately.

How to insulate the ceiling in a private house: a step-by-step scheme

In order to properly and efficiently insulate the ceiling, you need to know the main points of this process.

The scheme of insulation of the ceiling in the house:

First stage. A frame is made of beams or metal profiles. On a frame base, the ceiling is subsequently sheathed with plasterboard or clapboard.
Second phase. Creation of a layer of vapor barrier. Glassine is cut to the size of the cells with the addition of 5 cm, wooden slats it is attached to rails or beams.
Third stage. Laying a layer of insulation. Let's say it's mineral wool or polystyrene. Styrofoam is easy to lay, as in the process you adjust the number of layers. The foam plastic is inserted into the cells of the crate as tightly as possible, but try not to break it - you never know, the material is fragile in this sense.
Fourth stage. You close the insulation with a glassine layer and fix the skin.
Fifth stage. The ceiling is awaiting finishing and finishing.

Insulation of the ceiling inside the room has its drawbacks. It will not be possible to build lamps into this ceiling. This is explained by the fact that during operation the lamps heat up quite strongly, and the thermal insulation layer will not allow this heat to escape. So the lamps in the lamps deteriorate rather quickly.

Insulation of the ceiling in a private house outside

And here there are also several ways of warming - foam plastic, mineral wool, penoizol. First, of course, put the attic in order. Remove everything from it so that only the beams and the ceiling remain.

The attic is well ventilated, so review the ventilation system, if necessary, seal the gaps so that the thermal insulation layer does not get wet and thus fail.

If you use foam for insulation:

Put a layer of glassine between the beams, the overlap will be 5 cm for fixing to the beams, it is attached to them with a special rail;
Then lay the foam very tightly;
Fill the gaps between the beams and the foam itself with construction foam;
Lay another glassine layer on top of the foam;
Lay one or two layers of mineral wool on top.

Useful tips for insulating the ceiling with foam:

Lay mineral wool flush with all floor beams. The laying principle is brickwork.

External insulation using penoizol

This method has its own nuances, so it will be difficult to cope on your own, usually they turn to specialists. Since it requires special equipment to work.

Penoizol is such a powdered insulation that a special vehicle blows into the inter-beam space. This method is complicated, since it is necessary to ensure sealing so that the insulation does not get into the living space.

Usually this type of work is trusted by specialists or those who already had experience of such insulation.

What should be the heater

There are not so many requirements for it, but they are quite serious. First, the insulation must be fire resistant. That is, it is very difficult to ignite or not ignite at all. According to safety rules, it must contain the fire for 25 minutes (the norm for a private house).

The joints of thermal insulation and load-bearing external walls are subject to the most thorough insulation. To warm these places outer wall sealed with a heat-insulating layer, the width of which is not less than half a meter.

Types of insulation for the ceiling (video)

Ceiling insulation in a house with a cold roof: ecowool

This insulation is not as popular as mineral wool, but this circumstance is obviously temporary.

Ecowool consists of small cellulose fibers, it can be laid both wet and dry.

Ways of laying ecowool:

The dry method means scattering, precise distribution and compaction of the insulation between the beams.
The wet method involves the use of special equipment, where the fibers are mixed with adhesive composition, then wet ecowool is fed through special pipe under pressure, and so distributed over the surface.

Ecowool can be laid in any layer, even when compacted, it will have a small weight. Its airiness just provides reliable insulation ceiling. This insulation prevents mold and other microorganisms from forming.

During production, this material is treated with fire retardants, therefore it is a low-combustible material, moreover, self-extinguishing. Ecowool forms a sealed, seamless coating, so this insulation perfectly protects from both heat and cold.

Since cellulose wadding is a breathable material, moisture will not linger in it.

How to insulate the ceiling of the house with your own hands (video)

And in the foam block ceiling, and in reinforced concrete, and in wood there are no such properties to refuse insulation. Get quality modern materials, fire resistant and environmentally friendly.

Happy repair!

Few people think that ceilings also need. Most people think that the usual exterior wall decoration is enough.

However, the ceiling is the same complete structure as the walls or floor. And he conducts heat through himself in the same way.

If you do not insulate the ceilings correctly and on time, then serious troubles can await you. How to perform ceiling insulation in a private house? Now we will find out.

1 Heat exchange on the example of a ceiling

To begin with, let's clarify why the ceiling should be insulated at all. If everything is quite simple with walls, then with ceilings the situation is not so clear.

Any wall needs insulation from the outside and this is completely normal. Insulated, it cannot be cooled from the outside temperature, which means it cannot give off heat to the inside of the room. That is, a kind of cocoon of thermal insulation is formed around the house.

With ceilings, elementary physics interferes with the matter. We are talking here about the exchange of heat flows inside closed spaces. It so happened that the flow exchange scheme is always the same and is characterized very simply.

Warm air always tends to go up, and cold air goes down. The nuance here is that if the ceiling between floors or between the attic and the room is cold, then all the hot air cools quickly, and warm air comes in its place, which cools down in the same way.

As a result, it forms natural system air cooling. Breaking it is very simple, it is enough to insulate the ceiling from the inside or outside.

1.1 Where is the best place to insulate?

As we noted above, ceiling insulation in a private house can be carried out both from the inside and outside.

Let's make it clear right now. If we are talking about the ceiling, then insulation from the inside means that we mount the thermal insulation from the inside of the room, that is, directly on the ceiling.

If, however, methods of finishing the outside are discussed, then it means the insulation of the floor of the ceiling, which forms the ceiling. That is, the insulation of the floor between floors so that cold air did not cool the structure at all.

In most cases, the ceiling is cold due to the fact that cold air acts on it from above. This often happens in houses with an attic without.

The attic, of course, is a kind of barrier between the street and the room, but it does not always perform its functions as expected.

If the attic is poorly protected, and insulation is not laid between its rafters, then very soon it will freeze. And the temperature inside it will be, if higher than the street temperature, then not much. A couple of degrees max.

As a result, the overlap will still freeze through. Here the solution is clear. The useful volume of the attic is not so important, plus it is always more convenient to insulate from the side where the cold air comes from. That is, to cut off low temperatures from structures.

Insulation from the inside, on the contrary, allows the structure between floors to freeze, but does not allow it to transfer cold into the room.

Such solutions are considered less effective. Not only will the ceiling be colder in any case, but you will also lower the height of the ceilings in the room. Do not forget that the thermal insulation will take at least 10 cm in height.

If, however, the insulation of the ceiling is considered from directly between the floors, then here the solution is not so unambiguous. In any case, it is better and more convenient to work outside.

There you do not have to assemble the frame in limbo, which is already a big plus. And if your ceilings are cold, then in the room above, too, not everything is in order with the temperature.

But there are also situations when it is realistic to make a thermal insulation device exclusively from the inside. For example, if the top floor does not belong to you, or it is simply impossible to equip normal thermal insulation there.

2 The choice of insulation

Insulate ceilings different materials. The selection of the best largely determines how you will act in the future.

For all the time of work, several main categories of heaters have stood out, which are almost ideal for use in such situations.

So, you can warm up:

Mineral wool and its varieties (ecowool, glass wool, etc.);
Styrofoam, both conventional and extruded ();
Expanded clay, wood shavings;
Penoizol, polyurethane foam.

2.1 Mineral wool

Mineral wool or ecowool in the case of ceiling insulation is probably the most profitable to use. Such decisions are completely justified, because mineral wool is almost ideal for all requirements for thermal insulation of the ceiling.

It is vapor-permeable, perfectly withstands temperature extremes. Able not to let heat through, while it does not burn in the fire and easily fits in any accessible place.

Another big plus of mineral wool, especially when it comes to arranging insulation in the attic, is that rodents do not eat through it.

As for the specific choice between mineral wool, eco-wool or glass wool, then, of course, priority will always fall on mineral wool.

It is produced from basalt fibers, which are melted down in special furnaces. As a result, a life-safe and very useful material is produced.

Ecowool is a product that is collected from the waste of the paper industry. Ecowool is safe and quite cheap, but inferior to mineral wool in its properties. In addition, it is a little more difficult to mount it yourself, although the technology there is almost the same.

As for glass wool instead, it is advisable not to lay it with your own hands. Rather, you can lay it, but only in good protection. Otherwise, you are at serious risk.

2.2 Styrofoam

Styrofoam can also be insulated. In some situations, it becomes even preferable to mineral wool. That's just the foam is vapor-tight, can become food for rodents, and most importantly - it burns on fire.

When working with ceilings, such properties are not the best help. Of course, any structure can be finished with polystyrene foam, but here you already have to be careful and clearly calculate what is best used in this situation.

However, the solution may well be insulation with extruded foam. Unlike the usual one, it does not burn in fire and is not eaten by rodents. That is, the main nuances in this material are leveled.

2.3 Backfill materials

The use of backfill materials includes insulation with expanded clay, shavings, polymer balls, etc. The solution is rather trivial and even old-fashioned. The same expanded clay thermal insulation floors our grandfathers did.

However, one cannot deny the fact that such thermal insulation really works. And you can lay it down in a day and with your own hands.

It is easiest to work with expanded clay of all bulk insulation, but it also costs more than the same shavings. You can generally buy it for a penny. However, the choice between a heater is not so important here. With expanded clay, that with polymer balls, the overlap is insulated in the same way. But we note in advance that the quality of the thermal insulation of the ceiling will still be inferior to the quality of the mineral wool insulation.

2.4 Penoizol and polyurethane foam

These insulation materials as well as have the most interesting and non-standard structure. Still, because they are essentially a mounting foam, which is applied to the walls in large quantities.

Roughly speaking, foam fills all the openings between installed frame and then wait for it to dry.

Foam liquid heaters easy to lay on the surface, have excellent adhesion to any materials. They are not afraid of water, fire or rodents. But they also have their drawbacks.

First of all, this concerns the fact that it is simply impossible to apply such materials with your own hands. For work, you will at least need a specialized foam mixer and sprayer.

Also, foam insulation, as well as the work of applying them, will cost you a rather impressive amount.

2.5 Insulation technology

The technology for arranging thermal insulation of ceilings consists in collecting wooden frame. Insulation is put into the frame, which leads to the possibility of hiding it under subsequent structures.

It is better to think in advance about the dimensions of the frame, the quantity necessary insulation etc. Remember that floor and ceiling insulation is always inextricably linked with a decrease in indoor space.

If the technology involves the installation mineral wool boards 5 cm thick, then the total thickness of the heat-insulating cake will be no less than 7-8 cm. This must be taken into account.

Stages of work:

We prepare the surface, clean it, cut the frame elements.
Mounting frame rails
If necessary, we lay transverse stabilizing bars.
We lay a waterproofing film.
We lay the insulation on the glue.
Additionally, we fix it with dowels.
We lay a vapor barrier film.
We fill the crate.
Installing the finish coat.

The installation technology, both inside and outside, is almost the same. The difference can appear only at the stage of choosing the fastening of thermal insulation and the frame elements themselves.

2.6 Analysis of the features of the insulation of ceilings (video)

Foreword. If you feel that your home heating costs are too high, especially if condensation forms on the ceiling and the ceilings become damp, then you need to insulate this design. From this article you will learn how to inexpensively insulate the ceiling of a private house with your own hands and what materials are best used for thermal insulation of ceilings in a house. At the end of the article you will see video instructions from professionals.

Properly using modern and traditional thermal insulation, you can keep the heat in the house on your own and increase the sound insulation of the structure. But, before proceeding with the thermal insulation of the ceiling in a private house from the inside with your own hands, you should deal with the most important question of how to insulate the ceiling in a private house and how best to insulate the ceiling - from the outside or from the inside. We will answer this question in this article.

How best to insulate the ceiling in a private house

With the approach of winter, many owners of wooden and brick country houses they begin to worry about issues related to the thermal insulation of residential premises and the insulation of the steam room. The most important question is how to properly insulate the ceiling in a private house, since warm air always rises up and it is through the ceiling that the greatest heat loss occurs in a private house in winter.

As we have noted more than once, insulate everything building construction only needed outside. Internal insulation should only be used in exceptional cases. External insulation will protect the processed structures from freezing and rapid destruction during operation. When warmed inside warm room moisture and mold will form between the thermal insulation layer and the wall.

Also, do not forget about the use of vapor barrier films. They are designed to protect the thermal insulation layer from the moisture contained in the warm air. If you lay the vapor barrier with the correct side against mineral wool or other insulation, all the moisture from the air will condense on the surface of the membrane, and not be absorbed into the insulation.

How to insulate the ceiling in a private house from the outside, from the inside

What material to insulate the ceiling in a private house? Most often, mineral wool is used for thermal insulation of this design. This insulation has chemical and temperature resistance and does not emit harmful substances. Styrofoam and extruded polystyrene foam are also popular. Traditionally, wood sawdust or expanded clay was used to insulate the attics of baths and houses in Russia.

If we talk about the required thickness of the heat-insulating layer, then everything depends on the material used. Recall that the greater the density of the insulation, the more it conducts heat and the thicker the layer is required. Do not rely on advice, calculate the thickness of the ceiling insulation in a private house on the thermal insulation calculator on the site.

Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare materials that are used for thermal insulation of the ceiling of a private house: insulation - mineral wool, polystyrene foam, sawdust or expanded clay, waterproofing material- wind and moisture protective film, polyethylene, glassine, roofing material or vapor barrier, boards, bars, nails, mounting foam. And the most simple tools: hammer, wood saw or electric jigsaw.

How to insulate the ceiling of a private house with your own hands

So, the insulation of the ceiling in a private house is made from the side of the attic. To begin with, a waterproofing layer of a moisture-proof film or glassine is laid on the ceiling. Roll waterproofing is laid on the surface with an overlap of at least 5 cm on each side. Fix the material with a stapler or on nails using wooden planks.

How to insulate the ceiling in a private house with mineral wool

On top of the waterproofing in the attic, glass wool or basalt wool is laid in rolls so that the mineral wool fills the entire space between ceiling beams. It is best to lay several layers of mineral wool so that the second layer overlaps the seams of the first layer. A subfloor is laid on top if the attic is planned to be used further.

How to insulate the ceiling in a private house with foam

The technology for insulating the ceiling in a private house with foam plastic and polystyrene foam does not differ from the technology for using mineral wool. With only one exception - the use of a vapor barrier is not necessary here, since polystyrene foam is vapor-tight. And the seams between the foam boards should be carefully sealed with mounting foam.

Insulation of the ceiling of a private house with expanded clay, sawdust

The technology of thermal insulation of attics of houses for many years has been associated with the use of sawdust and expanded clay. These traditional materials for many years it has been used for the insulation of horizontal surfaces, due to its low cost and the absence of problems with condensate. The beginning of work is associated with a waterproofing device made of roofing felt, film or penofol.

The thermal insulation of the attic from sawdust, as well as from expanded polystyrene, is often supplemented with mineral wool, which is laid on top of the first layer of insulation on the ceiling. A floor from a rough floorboard is laid on top of the thermal insulation. Do not forget that high-quality attic ventilation is necessary so that excess moisture can ventilate from the insulation.

How to insulate the ceiling in a private house from the inside

The best way to style mineral insulation from the side of the room - installation of thermal insulation using false ceiling. The framework is made of metal profiles with a step of 30 centimeters. The frame must be properly fixed to prevent the ceiling from collapsing. The mineral wool is pushed in so that the mats fit without gaps.

From the bottom of the frame, from the side of a warm room, a waterproofing film is stretched to protect the basalt insulation from moisture absorption. Next, drywall is mounted on the frame. After covering the ceiling, all seams are glued with masking tape and puttied. After the joints have dried, the entire surface of the ceiling is puttied with an oil finishing putty.