Indoor plants begonia care and reproduction. Optimum air humidity. How to care for begonia

Begonia care is not difficult even for a beginner grower. Give her quite a bit of attention and she will delight you with her beauty.

Begonia. Species and varieties

Begonia was discovered by the French botanist Charles Plumier, who took part in a scientific expedition organized by Michel Begon in 1687 in the Antilles. In honor of Begon, this plant got its name.

Now there are more than 2000 types of begonias. All types of begonias are divided into 3 groups:
- tuberous begonia (propagated by tubers);
- leaf begonia (has a thickened root, which is used for reproduction);
- bush begonia (propagated by apical shoots and seeds).

Begonia is also divided into subshrubs, shrubs and herbaceous plants. For growing at home, most often used hybrid varieties, which in turn are divided into decorative-flowering and decorative-deciduous.

The most popular types of flower growers are tuberous, decorative flowering begonias. They have beautiful, large flowers of various shades: from white, pink to red. Most types of begonias bloom all summer, but when favorable conditions are created for them, they can please with their beautiful flowers in autumn and even in winter.

Indoor begonia, home care

Indoor begonia - the plant is the most unpretentious and resistant to various diseases indoor plants. Caring for it at home will not cause much trouble, but still, it must be competent so that your indoor plant develops correctly and has a beautiful well-groomed appearance.

Begonia flower is a heat-loving plant, and the temperature for it must be maintained within + 15 + 20 ° С, and in winter time— not lower than +15°C. But do not put it near the battery and electric heaters.

The lighting should be bright, but without bright sunlight, so in the summer the flower should be shaded.

Watering and spraying

In spring and summer, begonias require abundant watering, but the plant should not be flooded, as it does not like stagnant water. In winter, water the flower should be moderate. When watering, it is necessary to avoid getting water on the begonia leaves, otherwise brown spots form on them. Soft, settled water should be used.

High-humidity air is required for full-fledged care of begonia, but it is not recommended to spray the plant. The best option is to place pots of begonias on a tray with wet peat or moss.

Begonia, reproduction at home

Propagation of begonias at home, depending on the species, can be done by leaf or tuber cuttings.

Reproduction of tuberous begonia must be done as follows. In autumn it is necessary to take out the tubers, clean them from the ground, cut off the stems and store in sand (peat), at a temperature of +8 +10 ° C. In February, the tubers are planted in moist soil.

Watering should be moderate. It will take several weeks for the seedlings to germinate. As soon as shoots appear, the tubers should be cut into pieces, treated with charcoal and dried.

Divided tubers are planted in small boxes, while deepening the tubers only by half. After 20-25 days, they can be planted in pots with a mixture of peat, leaf humus and put in a bright place. During active growth young begonias should be fed with organic fertilizers.

Leaf cuttings are best done in the spring. For propagation by a leaf cutting, it is necessary to cut a leaf at the very base of the begonia stem, at least 5 cm long. Bury the cutting in the prepared soil carefully so that the leaf does not come into contact with the soil, which must be well moistened after planting.

If for planting you use not a leaf, but a stem cutting, then its length should be more than 7 cm. It is necessary to plant the cuttings as quickly as possible so that the cut does not have time to dry.

Begonia transplant

Begonia transplant is needed annually, it is better to do it in early spring. If transplanted less often, then the leaves of begonias, located in a cramped pot, begin to turn pale and lose their decorative effect.

For transplanting, you must first pick up a pot. When using a plastic pot, it will be necessary to lay out a layer of expanded clay on the bottom, which absorbs excess moisture well. And pour shells or coarse sand over the expanded clay to make the pot more stable.

You can also use a ceramic pot, which does not allow waterlogging and passes air well. But here it must be borne in mind that over time, the roots will occupy all the space inside the pot and begin to grow to its walls. When transplanting from such a pot, the roots will be severely damaged.

The land during transplantation should not be either damp or excessively dry. The plant should be carefully removed from the pot, remove the earth and place it for 10-15 minutes in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Then carefully inspect the roots, cutting off small tangled or large rotten roots and sprinkle the cut points with charcoal.

The soil for begonias should be nutritious and slightly acidic. It is better to use a mixture of peat, leaf and sod land for begonias, while you can add a little coniferous land and coarse sand. It is advisable to cut the plant after transplantation so that it recovers faster and grows. The transplanted plant should be sprayed daily and watered as soon as it begins to dry out. upper layer earth. It is also recommended to hold the begonia for several days in the shade.

Growing begonias from seeds

It is best to start growing begonias from seeds in early January. To do this, you can use boxes with a sifted mixture of peat, leafy soil and sand. Moisten the soil for disinfection with a 0.1% solution of potassium permanganate. Crops are best kept under glass and evenly moistened with heated water.

Keep such boxes with plants should be on the windowsill so that the plants have enough sunlight. When shoots appear after 2 weeks, the glasses are removed. Plants should be dived at the stage of appearance of 2-3 leaves. A month later, conduct a second pick. In early May, young plants will need to be planted in separate pots.

Features of home care for begonia

From spring to mid-autumn, it is necessary to feed the begonia with liquid complex fertilizers for ornamental plants.

After the plant has faded, without cutting off the roots and stems, it should be dried by placing it in a dark place. Within a month, all the nutrients in the stems and roots will go to the tuber. It is necessary to dig out the formed tuber about two weeks after the ground part of the plant has completely died off.

In winter, the tubers are placed in boxes with sand. The temperature in the room where the tubers are stored should not exceed +15°C. So that the tubers do not dry out, they must be watered periodically.

Indoor begonia and its diseases

Why is the begonia not blooming?

If the begonia does not bloom, then the reason for this may be that it was transplanted into a pot that is too spacious. Therefore, when transplanting, it is important to consider that the new pot in diameter should be no more than 2 cm wider than the old one. In order for the begonia to bloom more magnificently, wilted flowers should be carefully removed, as they interfere with the development of new buds. Flowering plant should be fed regularly.

Why do begonia leaves dry?

With insufficient soil or air moisture, the leaves of the begonia begin to dry, and the flowers and buds fall off. Irrigation system urgently needed. If the leaves become pale or turn yellow, then this indicates a lack of light for the flower. The appearance of brown edges on the leaves indicates dry air or sunlight on the begonia.

Overwatering a plant can cause gray rot, in this case, a light mold appears on the leaves. The affected parts must be removed, the plant itself must be treated with a fungicide.

In the presence of drafts, dry air or temperature changes, a white coating may form on the leaves - powdery mildew. In this case, the plant should be treated with ground sulfur or sprayed with a 1% solution of colloidal sulfur.

Of the pests, begonias are most often attacked. spider mite or aphids. They should be dealt with by spraying the underside of the leaf with soapy solutions of tobacco. Or you can treat the begonia with preparations containing feverfew or an insecticide.

What to look for when buying a begonia

When buying a begonia, it should be carefully examined so as not to acquire a plant with a "bouquet" of diseases or pests. Pay attention to the healthy and bright color of the leaves, their normal turgor, lack of plaque and dry spots.

Begonia is a plant that belongs to the Begoniev family and adorns squares, parks and apartments. There are about 900 full-fledged species of this plant in the world. Begonias are native to Southeast Asia. The size of the plant can be from 5 cm to 3 m in length.

In this article, you will learn some secrets of caring for beautiful flowering begonias at home.

Favorable conditions for growing home begonias

Begonias are unpretentious in care and disease resistant, but the question of how to grow begonias is very common. You need to remember three rules for caring for a plant: transplanting, timely feeding and moderate watering. This will be discussed in the following sections.

Did you know?The plant was named after the governor of Haiti - M. Begon.

Lighting

In order for the begonia to please abundant flowering, you need to provide the plant with good lighting, best diffused. Make sure that direct sunlight does not fall on the begonia leaves - this causes burns on them. If you do not have the opportunity to grow begonias on the windowsill, you can use fitolamps. It is more efficient to use two phytolamps.

Temperature

At room temperature The begonia is doing great. If the temperature falls below 16°C or exceeds 28°C, the leaves and flowers wither and fall off.

Air humidity

Begonias need high humidity - about 60%. In winter, additional air humidification is required. This can be achieved by spraying. Dry and cool conditions are suitable for tuberous begonias. They do not need high humidity. Shrub species are tolerant of dry air in winter, but it also does not hurt to spray them.

Features of caring for begonia during flowering

Many people wonder how to feed begonias for abundant flowering.

During flowering, begonias need to be fed at least once a week. To do this, use mineral fertilizers, but before that it is best to add a weak solution of potassium nitrate.

Important! If you want to prolong flowering, cut off faded flowers as often as possible.

Once the begonia has finished blooming, prepare the plant for the resting phase. To do this, reduce the amount of watering until the aerial part dries. Withered leaves, stems, shoots and flowers cut off. The temperature should not exceed 12°C. The rest period lasts from November to March.

Proper pruning of begonias

In this section, we will explain to you , how to properly prune begonias after flowering so that your plant grows, looks young and healthy. With a stem length of 6-8 cm, the first pruning is carried out. After that, watering is briefly reduced. When lateral processes reach 10-12 cm, pinching is carried out. After that, remove dry shoots and leaves. They can lead to various diseases.

Important! For speedy healing, the cut sites are treated with charcoal.

Pruning is carried out with a sharp knife, as scissors can injure the begonia. All these procedures are performed for several purposes. First of all, it is necessary for the formation of the crown of a young plant. Pinching improves the flowering of the plant. Cropping supports decorative look bush. Pruning and pinching should be done annually, as this also helps to rejuvenate the begonia.

Important! If you do not prune the plant in a timely manner, the begonia leaves will decrease in size and the duration of flowering will be shortened.

The basics of correct transplantation

Transplanting is an important process in growing begonias, and in this section we will learn when to repot begonias and how to do it.

The frequency of this operation depends on the type of begonia. Tuberous varieties should be replanted annually with a change of soil and pot as the roots grow.

Transplantation is carried out in early spring. The plant is pulled out of the pot, and the roots are cleaned of the old soil. Then the plant is placed in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. If necessary, you can trim the roots. A little sand and stones are placed at the bottom of the pot. The plant is covered with new soil, leaving a little space on top (2-3 cm). After a few weeks, the earth is filled up to the top. During the month, begonia needs abundant watering.

Features of caring for begonias in winter

In our climatic conditions, it would be reasonable to ask how to organize proper care behind begonias in winter.

In winter, begonia needs sunlight. To do this, put the pot with the plant on the windowsill under the sun for several hours. Watering should be moderate, but the soil should be constantly moist.

Important! Avoid overwatering the plant, as this will cause root rot.

In winter, the plant slows down in growth and requires rest. At the same time, feeding and transplanting should be postponed until spring.

Reproduction of begonias at home

Now it's time to talk about how to propagate begonias at home. You can propagate the plant using leaf cuttings, stems and dividing the bush.

leaf cuttings

This method is used specifically in indoor floriculture. Cuttings are the parts of a plant that are used in vegetative propagation. This reproduction can be done using root, stem and leaf cuttings.

Reproduction can be done in several ways:a whole leaf with a petiole, a whole leaf without a petiole, part of a leaf blade.

Reproduction by a whole leaf with a petiole is suitable for some types of begonia. The length of the petiole depends on the rooting environment of the cutting. If you will root in water, then the petiole should be 3-4 cm long, if in the ground - 1-1.5 cm.

Reproduction by a whole leaf without a petiole is suitable for the type of begonia "rex". To do this, thick veins are cut on a begonia leaf and placed on the ground horizontally with the bottom side. After that, the leaves are pinned, and in the places of the incision, after some time, new shoots are formed that can be grown.

Did you know? For decorative purposes, begonia began to be used in 1890.

Reproduction by part of the leaf blade is suitable for royal begonia and Mason's begonia. A part of the leaf is cut off from the plant at the base 4-5 cm wide. Planted vertically 1-1.5 cm deep and set small supports. In this case, the begonia leaf should not come into contact with the ground.

To obtain a full-fledged process from a leaf cutting, you need to maintain favorable conditions for rooting. The leaf must be plucked from a healthy plant. Old leaves are not suitable, as they are not capable of regeneration and wither quickly. Special requirements for the care of cuttings are humidity, lighting and temperature. While the cuttings have no roots, they will not be able to absorb water, so you need to reduce the evaporation process.

Lighting should be diffused, as direct rays cause overheating and burns. Optimum temperature– 20-25°С.

An earthless substrate is used as the soil. To do this, sand and peat are mixed in equal parts. Peat prevents the development of pathogenic fungi. Pure Vermiculite may also work. It not only absorbs excess moisture, but also gives it to the plant as needed.

Did you know? The smell of begonia flowers helps to cleanse the bronchi, and is also an excellent natural filter for people with nicotine addiction.

Many florists wonder how to fertilize begonia after breeding. Our answer is that the plant should not be fertilized at all at first.

This breeding method should not be used. chemicals, since they do not give the expected effect in the form of rapid root formation, and this can also slow down the emergence of new shoots.

stems

reproduction stem cuttings is the simplest way. To do this, you can use green cuttings.

Begonia- a very beautiful ornamental plant, distinguished not only by large bright flowers similar to roses, but also by unusual leaves with a velvety surface, with an intricate pattern, with a variegated color. These luxurious flowers have gained wide popularity among both our gardeners and amateurs. indoor views plants. You can often find in the description such terms as beautifully flowering and decorative leafy begonia species, although these definitions are very arbitrary, since among the varieties there are luxurious plants with large beautiful flowers and chic large leaves of bright color with an unusual pattern. TO today breeders have bred thousands of species, subspecies and varieties of begonias both for decorating gardens and for growing at home.

One of the most popular species among inexperienced novice growers include hybrids of royal begonia and tuberous begonia, which are not too demanding in home care and refer to undemanding plants. Below you will find detailed information how to properly organize the care of these indoor plants at home.

In addition to the popular types of royal (rex) and tuberous geraniums, experts distinguish the following groups in the classification of these domestic plants: decorative-deciduous, ampelous, bush, ever-flowering, thick-stemmed.
If you consider yourself a beginner gardener and are going to start growing begonias at home, then we advise you to pay attention to tuberous begonias, the care of which does not take much time and is quite simple. Planting a shoot of a tuberous begonia or a small tuber with small sprouts in the substrate for growing an adult plant does not present any difficulties, so it is not at all necessary to buy a mature flower that is already rooted. We will tell you about how to properly plant a cutting or a begonia tuber, how to then take care of a rooted plant, how to deal with diseases and pests.

During the flowering period of tuberous begonia, you will enjoy amazingly beautiful flowers with double petals. Color palette of flowers of this species domestic begonia is very diverse and among the varieties of this indoor plant you will definitely find a suitable one for decorating the interior of your room. By the way, blooming begonias look very advantageous against the background of such houseplants with an unusual shape, such as Benjamin's ficus in the form of a tree (very similar to topiary) or Marginata dracaena with elongated palm-like leaves, and also form an interesting composition with such plants from the Crassulaceae family as Kalanchoe blooming or tree crassula (Money Tree). Some indoor plant lovers grow unpretentious home begonias in hanging pots or in wicker flower pots, which is an interesting find for modern phytodesign. In addition to tuberous or royal begonias for shaping flower arrangement in phytodesign, we can recommend such domestic species as B. multi-leaved (Begonia foliosa), B. luxurious (Begonia luxurians Scheidw), B. shell-leaved (Begonia conchaifolia), B. Mason (Begonia masoniana Irmsch). You can create a chic composition from only begonias, distinguishing plants by the color and shape of the leaves, as well as by the color scheme of the flowers.

♦ WHAT IS IMPORTANT!

Location and lighting.

It is advisable to place home begonia on a floor stand for flowers on the east side or southwest - closer to the window. If possible, then in winter it is advisable to rearrange the plant to the windows on the south side. In order for the begonia leaves not to get burnt from direct sunlight in the hot summer, it is necessary to darken them a little. window glass film or parchment paper so that diffused sunlight falls on the plant. It is worth noting that, unlike bush and ampelous species, royal and tuberous varieties of begonias are less demanding on constant sunlight.

Temperature regime.

Begonia will feel comfortable at a temperature of 19-25 ° C in the summer (the most best option- 20-23°C). In the autumn-winter season, a room temperature of 17-23 ° C will allow the plant to remain healthy and hardy. However, do not allow the temperature to drop below 14°C for extended periods of time.

Air humidity.

Begonia loves high humidity (over 60%), but the plant tolerates a moderate level of humidity (50-60%) as well. The main problem is the regulation of the humidity level during the heating season. If there is dry air in the room where the begonia is located, then we recommend that you take the following actions: pour expanded clay into a wide pan, put the pot on a stand there and regularly moisten the expanded clay; you can also place the pot in a flowerpot, on the bottom of which gravel is poured (which also needs to be moistened); if possible, install a humidifier next to the plant. It is not advisable to spray begonia, as then ugly spots appear on the leaves. Brown(but you can spray water from a spray bottle next to the plant without getting on it).

Watering.

To water the plant, use soft water, settled for several days. In summer, water the begonia abundantly, and pour out all the water flowing through the drainage from the pan. The frequency of watering is easy to regulate: periodically check the dryness of the soil - if the earth mixture has dried up a couple of centimeters deep, then it's time for the next watering. It should be noted that the tuberous geranium does not need watering in winter, since at this time the period of active growth ends and the plant hibernates. In winter, it is recommended to place tuberous species in peat.

Earth mix and top dressing.

You can prepare the substrate for growing homemade begonias yourself. To do this, a little coarse-grained sand should be poured onto the bottom of the flower pot, then leafy soil should be poured up to half, and then a mixture of black soil and peat (1: 1). Purchased soil mixture is also quite suitable for begonias.

If your begonia blooms in winter, then you can feed the plant during the entire flowering period with phosphate fertilizers no more than once every two weeks. In the spring and summer, a houseplant should be fed with a weak solution of mineral fertilizers once every 8-10 days. Decorative-deciduous types of home begonias are not fed at all from October to March.

Transfer.

Begonias are transplanted only if the root system has grown strongly, filling almost the entire pot. The best time to transplant is mid-spring. Very carefully, you need to pull the flower out of the pot, clean the roots and place the plant in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for 20 minutes. After that, we cut off the rotten roots with a sharp knife and process the cut points with crushed charcoal. We plant begonias in a larger pot with prepared earth mixture. Begonia takes root in a new pot for about 4-5 weeks (tuberous or royal faster - in 2-3 weeks). During this period, the plant should be watered frequently, placed away from direct sunlight.

pruning.

Pruning should be done with a sharp knife immediately above the shoot, directed to the outside, or immediately above the kidney. Until the beginning of the growth period, the frequency of watering after trimming begonias should be reduced. Bush types of begonias are pruned quite strongly, as they stretch well and grow actively. Pruning of thick-stemmed species is performed in rare cases in order to give the plant the desired shape. You can shorten the top of the ampelous species to stimulate the branching of lateral shoots. Tuberous house begonias and hybrids of royal (rex) do not need pruning.

Bloom.

Many types of begonias are famous for their abundant flowering and delight the eye with beautiful flowers of the most different shades. For example, the chic tuberous begonia of the Everest variety is famous for its large flowers, reaching a diameter of 30 cm. Usually, the flowering period of begonias begins in summer and ends late autumn. Some species bloom in winter and even throughout the year!

reproduction.

Cuttings. Many types of home begonia reproduce well using cuttings. Usually, a shoot 8-10 cm long with several leaves is cut off in early spring, the cut site is treated with crushed charcoal and planted in a container with earth mixture (peat and river sand in a ratio of 1: 1). It is necessary to water the cuttings occasionally and very carefully, as the roots can rot from excess moisture.
tubers. The best option for propagation of tuberous begonia. Before planting, the begonia tuber is divided into parts with a sharp knife and the cuts are sprinkled with charcoal. It is necessary to cut the tuber so that on each separate part there are several buds for the growth of shoots. After that, parts of the tuber are planted in the prepared soil mixture and very occasionally watered with soft water.
Seeds. Growing begonias from seeds is a rather painstaking work that requires professional skills and experience. Usually this is done by breeders who need to preserve and consolidate the varietal characteristics of a particular type of begonia.

♦ COMMON DISEASES:

Ring spot.
signs: first, concentric lines of light green color appear on the leaves, which eventually turn into necrosis - bronze formations. What should be done: as a rule, houseplants (tuberous, ornamental-deciduous, hybrid royal species of begonia) infect pests that suck juices (thrips, aphids and other vectors of tomato virus). Therefore, first of all, you need to get rid of pests on your plants. Ring-spotted begonias should be destroyed.

Bacterial spotting.
Signs: watery spots appear on the underside of the begonia leaf plate, which turn into glassy translucent formations.
What should be done: destroy the affected plant, and the remaining specimens must be sprayed with a 5% suspension of copper oxychloride once every two weeks to prevent the disease.

Gray rot.
Signs: watery spots with a grayish coating appear on the leaves, apical shoots and flowers of an ornamental plant, and then they turn into weeping formations caused by the botrytis fungus. Mucus may appear on the inflorescences, the leaves curl up and noticeably darken, and the stems become brittle.
What should be done: spray the whole plant with a solution laundry soap(20 gr) s blue vitriol(2-3 gr) in 1 liter of soft water. If the procedure does not help, then it is necessary to spray the begonia with a 1% solution of foundationazole.

♦ COMMON PESTS:

Aphid.
signs: the tips of the shoots are deformed, the leaves are curled, honeydew appears (sticky discharge).
What should be done: treat the entire plant with a solution of laundry soap, covering the soil with a waterproof film.

Shchitovka.
signs: Pale or light brown convex oblong specks that can be easily scraped off with a fingernail from a leaf plate. Can be found on the underside of the leaf along the veins.
What should be done: treat the plant with an insecticide (Aktara or Aktellik).

Spider mite.
signs: on the underside of the leaf you can find a thin web that entangles different areas sheet plate.
What should be done: if the web is small enough, then you can simply treat the plant with soapy water, and wash it under the next day warm shower. In case of severe damage, it is advisable to treat the begonia with an insecticide.

♦ 5 USEFUL TIPS:

in the hot summer, it is dangerous to water home begonia during the day, as the procedure can lead to burns on the leaves and weaken the root system (when water gets into the soil heated by the sun). The best option for the summer period - water the plant warm water(room temperature) in the early morning;

If the begonia is still very young, then for strengthening and normal development, you can sprinkle the shoots with epin or zircon;

During heating season ventilate the room more often and regularly humidify the air;

Try to water the blooming begonia very carefully so as not to get water on the buds and flowers. This can lead to darkening and falling of the flowers of the plant.

♦ FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS FOR BEGINNER FLOWERS:

Question: Why did the tuberous begonias begin to turn yellow and fall off the leaves?
Answer: The most common causes are unbalanced watering (taking into account the current season), as well as constant air dryness. Sometimes begonia leaves fall off due to the activity of insect pests that suck the juice from the leaves.

Question: Why does an adult indoor begonia (more than 6 knees on the shoot) still not bloom?
Answer: Most likely, you are adding top dressing too often or the fertilizer composition is not quite right. During the flowering period, the proportion N:P:K should be 1:1:1. More possible reasons delays in the flowering period - constant drafts, too low (or very high) room temperature, constantly dry air.

Question: Why did non-double flowers of the usual form begin to appear on my double begonia?
Answer: This is normal. The fact is that at different times, female pistil flowers of the usual form and male staminate flowers appear on the terry begonia. After a while, your begonia will bloom with double flowers. By the way, you can remove the female pistillate flowers so that the "double bloom" is plentiful.

♦ BEGONIA HOME. PHOTO OF SPECIES, NAMES:

♦ VIDEO. HOW TO CARE FOR BEGONIA AT HOME:

Begonia tuberous - planting a tuber in prepared soil.

Flower growers always have special hopes for begonia. Extravaganzas of flowering, well-developed bushes, beautiful decorative leaves are expected from her. For the sake of this, tubers are carefully stored until spring, seedlings are grown, and they are carefully looked after.

Conditions for home growing

illumination

Begonias are photophilous, but cannot stand direct sunlight. In summer, for begonias, you should choose well-lit places, but away from direct sunlight. Best of all, they will feel on the east or west windows. On southern window sills, these plants should be shaded at midday to avoid burns on the leaves.

In winter, on the contrary, it is necessary to provide them with maximum light, and put them in sunny places in the morning. With strong shading, the shoots of the plants are extended and few flowers are formed. In winter, for blooming at this time, hybrids Lorraine and Elatior there is little natural light, it is desirable for them to provide additional lighting.

Humidity

Begonias prefer high air humidity, since in the wild these flowers grow in tropical forests, in cultural cultivation they also need high air humidity of 60-70%. You can increase it at home by spraying. Humidify the air around the plants, but not the leaves themselves. It is necessary to spray these plants very carefully through the smallest sprayer - drops of water leave ugly spots on the leaves. It is best to place these plants on pallets of wet expanded clay, in a group of plants, or use a humidifier.

If the begonia is kept too dry, the tips of the leaves dry up, the buds fall off, and the plants lose their decorative effect. Also, do not place them near central heating radiators.

Temperature

Begonias are thermophilic, do not tolerate negative temperatures. They should not be grown on cold windowsills. It is important to observe the temperature balance: in summer the room should be within 20-24°C, in winter - 16-18°C, but not lower than 15°C.

The soil

Light, slightly acidic soil, with good air and water permeability, is suitable for plants. The soil mixture is prepared from 2-3 parts of humus soil, 1 part of high-moor peat, which has an acidic reaction, and 1 part of coarse sand.

Care

Watering

Begonia does not tolerate too wet soil. Waterlogging is especially dangerous for tender seedlings, plants "suffocate" from lack of air and can die from root rot. The substrate must be damp, but not wet. Watering should be avoided cold water, below 12 ° C, so that the death of the roots does not begin. During the flowering period, begonias should not lack moisture, otherwise the leaves will lose their decorative effect, and the buds and flowers will begin to fall off.

These plants have a delicate root system that is sensitive to fertilizer overdose and improper watering. From spring to autumn, begonias are watered abundantly, after the topsoil has dried. Once every 10 days, add to the water for irrigation complex fertilizers. In autumn and winter, they are transferred to moderate watering, preventing the earthen coma from completely drying out. Excess or lack of moisture leads to the fall of leaves and buds, can cause various diseases and even death of the plant.

top dressing

For normal growth and development, plants need a balanced diet. When top dressing, seasonality, the age of the plant, its features are taken into account. Plants need nitrogen during spring growth. With its lack of begonias lag behind in development, the leaves become pale green. With an excess of nitrogen, plants do not adapt well to adverse conditions.

From mid-summer, flowers are prepared for the autumn-winter period. Fertilizers reduce the amount of nitrogen and increase the proportion of phosphorus and potassium. For top dressing, organic and mineral fertilizers are used. Frequency - 1 time in 10-14 days. Do not feed diseased and dry plants.

Transfer

You can transplant begonias throughout the spring, in extreme cases, until mid-summer, so that the plants have time to get stronger by autumn. This procedure is carried out annually, sometimes twice a year if the bushes and roots have grown quickly and the pot has become cramped. No need to take too much new capacity. The roots of the begonia should fill the entire volume of the pot, so it is better that the new pot is not much larger than the previous one.

Water begonias before transplanting. The soil should not be too wet. In a new pot, a layer of expanded clay is placed on the bottom for drainage, then the flower is transferred along with an earthen clod. If necessary, earth is added to the container and compacted around it. Transplantation can be combined with plant division. Important point when planting tubers - they can not be buried too deep. This will negatively affect flowering, the bush will be lush, and flowering will be poor.

Features of care in the winter

winter conditions for different types have their own characteristics, for some it is a period of relative rest, others need a good winter rest. Watering and room temperature - important factors for the maintenance of plants in the cold period.

Plants with decorative leaves in winter they can develop in the same way as in summer. But in conditions of short daylight hours and a lack of natural light, the shoots stretch out, become thin and brittle. Plant growth is controlled by watering. In winter, it is reduced, watered when the top layer of the earth dries up. The temperature of the content is also reduced to 16-18°C. You can not put flower pots near heaters and batteries. It is advisable to organize additional illumination for flowers.

At the begonias Elatior year-round cycle of development, with their flowering they can delight all winter. To make it lush, artificial lighting provides 14-hour daylight hours. Watering should not be excessive. Experienced flower growers are still advised to rest Elatior begonias between winter blooms. By pinching the tops of the shoots, you can adjust the timing of flowering.

For tuberous begonias after the end of summer flowering, watering is reduced, the shoots are cut off and the pots are transferred to a cool place - to the basement, glazed loggia, veranda.

Tubers can be stored in another way. At the end of September, after pruning, they are taken out of the ground, cleaned, dried, put in a bag with peat and placed in winter storage. The tubers will remain at rest until the end of winter. Regularly, at least 1-2 times a month, the tubers are checked. When root rot appears, the affected areas are cleaned, then they are treated with sulfur. If the infection has spread to large areas, then the tuber is discarded to save other plants.

It is undesirable to store tubers in the refrigerator, it is too cold for them there. The kidneys will wake up for a long time in the spring.

reproduction

propagate begonia seeds, leaf and stem cuttings, division of tubers and bush.

cuttings

The advantages of this method are the preservation of varietal characteristics and the speed of reproduction. The best time is spring. Young shoots with 1-2 internodes are cut from the top of the plant. Flowers, buds, lower leaves are removed, the upper ones are shortened by a third to reduce evaporation.

Cuttings are planted in mini-greenhouses with good drainage. The rooting mixture is prepared from peat, sand and vermiculite. Planted cuttings are regularly sprayed, aired to prevent decay, and protected from the hot sun.

Begonia cuttings can be rooted in water, and plants can also be propagated by leaf cuttings. Not old leaves with petioles 2–3 cm long are suitable for this. They are planted in a pot with a substrate, deepening the leaf to the length of the petiole. Small leaves for cuttings are taken whole, large ones are divided into parts. A leaf fragment should have a piece of petiole and a vein. The transplantation of rooted leaf petioles is started only after the appearance of new young plants. Usually this period is 4-6 weeks. Feeding begins a month after transplantation.

Division of tubers and bush

This method is suitable for tuberous begonias and for plants that form large bushes. Its advantage is that begonias begin to bloom earlier.

At the beginning of spring, the plants, together with the earthy clod, are divided into parts and planted in containers. The tubers are cut into pieces so that each has buds. Then the delenki are slightly dried and planted in light soil. Tubers need air and moisture to form new roots. Waterlogging should not be allowed, the soil should be in a semi-moist state, since at first there is a high risk of rotting tubers.

Reproduction by seeds

propagated by seeds begonia ever flowering, ampelous and tuberous.

In this way, you can immediately more plants than when cutting or dividing.

In the middle of winter, shallow containers are filled with an earth mixture consisting of equal parts compost, leafy soil, peat and sand. For disinfection, the surface of the soil is shed with a solution of fundozol. Begonia seeds are small, they are not embedded in the ground, but sown on a compacted surface of the substrate. Containers are covered with transparent glass or plastic bag and put in a warm place with a temperature of 21–23 ° C. Seeds germinate within two weeks. Next - the usual care of seedlings: daily airing for 1-2 hours, careful watering from a spray bottle, control over the formation of condensate on inside glass or film. After 12-14 days, the shelter is removed. During this period, the temperature of seedlings is reduced to 17–19 ° C and the plants are protected from direct sun. Seedlings are ready for picking after the formation of 2-3 true leaves.

Pests and diseases

Diseases

Most often, begonias suffer from powdery mildew and gray mold.

– fungal disease. It appears in the form white plaque on the leaves. Reduces the decorative effect of the plant and can spread to all above-ground parts. The leaves begin to turn brown and dry. Control measures - treatment with fungicides. In the room you need to reduce the humidity of the air, ventilate it more often.

Gray rot appears under wet and cool conditions. Fungi infect leaves, shoots, flowers. They form a gray fluffy coating. Systemic fungicides will help to cope with the disease. In addition, reduce watering, ventilate the room.

Pests

Aphid – small wingless sucking insect of green or yellowish color. Pests are very prolific, multiplying rapidly, suck the juice from the plant. The leaves turn yellow, the flowers fall off. They destroy pests by spraying plants with soapy water, tobacco infusion, and chemicals.

spider mite, as is the aphid, a sucking little insect. Depletes plants, begonia leaves are deformed, buds fall off. The affected bushes are washed with soapy water, treated with insecticides.

gall nematode – microscopic worm that settles on the roots and down on the stems. Outgrowths form on them, in which larvae develop. Plants lag behind in growth, rot. Sick plants are destroyed.

Blooming begonias will decorate the house, plants with colorful leaves unusual shape brighten up any interior. Looking at begonias, one cannot but believe that "beauty will save the world."

How to care for begonias? And interesting tips from experienced flower growers You will find out by watching the video.

Begonia (lat. Begonia) – annual or perennial belonging to the flowering department, the dicotyledonous class, the gourd order, the begonia family, the begonia genus.

Begonia got its name in honor of Michel Begon, the governor of Haiti, the organizer and sponsor of scientific research on the flora of the Antilles in 1687.

Begonia: flower description, characteristics and photo. What does a begonia look like?

Begonia grows different ways: in the form of grasses creeping along the ground, tall upright bushes or semi-shrubs. A well-developed begonia root system is branched, fibrous or tuberous. Begonia, which has a root in the form of tubers, can be grown not only indoors, but also in the garden. Other types of begonias are grown only at home.

The begonia leaf has an asymmetric shape. It can be whole or dissected into several lobules with wavy or jagged edges.

In most plants, the lower part of the leaf is colored in reddish, brown or dark purple colors, and the upper part is either a solid green or a variety of colors with geometric patterns, strokes and splashes. In some species of begonias, the surface of the stems and leaves is covered with small villi.

Begonia inflorescences consist of several small, medium or large flowers. The color of begonias is solid red, pink, yellow, orange, white, or with a border of various shades along the edges of the petals. The plant has a complex inflorescence - it consists of male and female flowers, over which, after pollination, a fruit is formed that has the shape of a trihedral box with small seeds inside.

Begonias bloom in summer and autumn, and indoor begonias can bloom until December.

Begonia: varieties, types, photos and names

The begonia genus includes about 1600 species, but only 125 of them and all kinds of hybrids are used for decorative purposes. Until now, there is no general system for classifying plants, and in foreign and Russian-language sources there are absolutely different variants classifications.

Professor V.V. Vorontsov, Doctor of Agricultural Sciences, identified the following conditional types of begonias:

decorative leafy begonias;
shrub begonias;
tuberous begonias;
beautiful flowering begonias.

Deciduous begonias (deciduous-deciduous)

Deciduous begonia does not have a common aerial stem, and long, pubescent leaves grow immediately from a branched root. This type of begonia impresses with the beauty of its leaves, which have a variety of shapes and colors. Leaf color can be green, red, silver, yellow, white or brown. Leaves can be both monophonic and multi-colored, with various spots and borders.

The most famous types and varieties of decorative leafy begonias:

Begonia royal (begonia Rex) (lat. Begonia rex)

A hybrid species with rounded or oval leaves 30 cm long with serrated edges. Their color varies from brownish pink to purple and violet. Begonia leaves are decorated with a white, silver or green border.

Begonia Metallica (metal) (lat. Begonia metallica)

A plant with small (10-15 cm long) olive-green pubescent leaves of an ovoid shape, the edges of which are indented with teeth. The upper part of the leaves of this species seems to be covered with metallic pollen.

tiger begonia (Bauer's begonia) (lat.Begonia bowerae )

A plant with medium-sized green serrated heart-shaped leaves and an animal pattern of brown or dark gray.

Mason's begonia(lat. begonia masoniana)

A deciduous begonia that grows in New Guinea and is of particular value due to its unusual leaf pattern, reminiscent of brown Maltese crosses. The length of the leaves can reach 20 cm, the leaves of old begonias acquire a characteristic silver hue. The height of the plant usually does not exceed 20-35 cm. The flowers are medium-sized, light beige.

Begonia Cleopatra(lat. Begonia cleopatra)

A species characterized by very decorative leaves similar to maple leaves. The outer side of the leaves is painted in intense green or olive color, from below the leaves can be burgundy or bright red. Distinctive feature This type of begonias are elongated fleshy leaf cuttings, densely covered with white or gray hairs. The height of the bush usually does not exceed 30 cm, in rare cases it reaches 50 cm. Cleopatra begonia blooms in January and February, then the plant throws out thin flower stalks strewn with groups of white-pink flowers.

Collar begonia, she is cuff begonia (lat.Begonia manicata )

A plant native to Mexico with a creeping stem and large hairy light green leaves up to 30 cm in diameter, growing on long cuttings. Begonia got its name due to the thick cuff of red villi that borders the stalk right under the leaf. In winter, adult plants form about 5 peduncles up to 60 cm long, decorated with an elegant brush of bright pink flowers.

red-leaved begonia(lat. Begonia erythrophylla)

A South American species characterized by short, fleshy stems and glossy, rounded leaves that are green above and deep red below. The maximum height of a begonia bush is 35-40 cm. In the middle of summer, it blooms with medium-sized pinkish flowers.

bush begonia

The bush begonia has densely growing articulated, branched stems that look like bamboo shoots. The plant is a shrub with numerous side shoots. The leaves have a variety of shapes and colors. Flowers are beautiful and graceful. The root is thick and fleshy, not divided into parts. Bush begonia bloom continues all year round. Varieties of begonias are both annual and perennial. The height of the bushes is from 10 cm to 2 meters.

Among the representatives of this variety of begonias, the following types are very popular:

Begonia coral (lat. Begonia corallina)

A plant with erect bare stems, reaching a length of 0.5-1 m. Front side oblong ovate leaves are dark green with silver speckles, and the reverse is brownish-red. Dense inflorescences of coral begonias consist of simple small flowers.

Begonia fuchsia (lat. Begonia fuchsioides)

A plant with strongly branching tall stems (up to 1 m) and large oval green leaves with a glossy surface. Rare hanging flowers of fuchsia begonia are painted in all shades of red.

Tuberous begonia has a tuberous rhizome, fleshy translucent stems up to 80 cm high, simple or double flowers, similar to camellias or peonies. Flowers can be both small and large, solitary and in inflorescences, with a diameter of 3 to 20 cm. Plants are herbaceous, shrubby or ampelous. The leaves are heart-shaped, they can be either fluffy matte or glossy, flat or corrugated. The color of the leaves contains all shades of green: from light to dark. The flowering of tuberous begonia is long and very beautiful, lasts from May to October.

Popular varieties of erect tuberous begonias:

Begonia Picoti Harlequin (Picotee Arlequin )

Semi-spreading plant no more than 0.25 m high with large (up to 12 cm in diameter) double flowers yellow color, which have a bright red border. Leaves are green and toothed.

Begonia Bouton de Rose (Bouton de rose )

A low compact bush with double flowers similar to a rose, reaching 18 cm in size. Petals of white or pale pink. The leaves of begonias of the Buton de Rose variety are green, large, with a wavy edge.

Begonia Duck Red (Dark red )

A low-growing shrub with semi-spreading stems and large, finely toothed green leaves. Terry dark red flowers of this variety of begonias do not exceed 10 cm in diameter and resemble a peony.

Begonia Crispa Marginata (lat.Crispa marginata ) - a sprawling plant with green leaves that have a purple edging. The height of the begonia is 15 cm. The flower is delicate yellow or white color with red border and curly edges.

Ampel varieties of tuberous begonia:

- a tuberous variety of begonia with long, falling stems, strewn with bright flowers on long flower shoots. The flowering period lasts from early spring to late autumn. One of the most popular varietal groups of ampelous begonia is the Chanson series, which strikes with a variety of colors and shades. The following varieties of ampelous begonias deserve attention:
- Rocsana- flowers are large, double, orange;
- Christy- flowers are white, terry;
- Girl- flowers are semi-double, pale pink.

Bolivian begonia(lat. Begonia boliviensis) - a type of ampelous begonia, the shoots of which first grow upwards, and upon reaching a height of 30 cm elegantly fall down in the form of a multi-tiered flower cascade. The following varieties of Bolivian begonia are especially popular:
- Santa Cruz Sunset F1- a strong, sprawling plant, forming drooping shoots, up to 40 cm long. From the beginning of summer to October, it is covered with many red-orange, fuchsia-shaped flowers;
- Copacabana F1- a hardy and unpretentious creeping plant, strewn with many bright red bell-shaped flowers during the flowering period;
- Bossa NovaF1- a sprawling plant with a shoot length of up to 50 cm, from spring to frost strewn with fuchsia flowers of red, orange, pink or white.

Blooming begonia (beautifully flowering, ornamental flowering)

This group includes begonias with very beautiful simple and double flowers of various colors. The most popular are the following types and varieties of begonias:

Begonia evergreen (lat. Begonia semperflorens)

It unites an extensive group of varieties that have a remarkable property to bloom all summer, regardless of weather conditions.
The most famous varieties of ever flowering begonias:

Baby Wing

A series of varieties of powerful plants with green and bronze leaves and plain or variegated flowers of various colors.

Ambassador

A series of varieties of begonias with original green leaves, bordered by a thin strip of red and with the most diverse colors.

cocktail

Abundantly flowering low bush with brick-colored leaves and simple flowers characteristic of begonia coloring.

Begonia Elatior (lat. Begonia elatior)

A hybrid variety from England, obtained by crossing the tuberous begonia and the Socotran begonia. Due to the ability of year-round flowering, this plant was named winter begonia (lat. Begonia hiemalis). It is a compact shrub, about 40 cm high, with a thick stem and bright, glossy leaves about 8 cm long, in the shape of an asymmetrical heart with serrated edges. Numerous simple or double flowers form multi-tiered inflorescences growing on long pedicels. Elatior begonia varieties, depending on the height of the bush, are divided into 3 types:

- high (about 40 cm) (for example, varieties Louise, Renaissance, Schwabenland);

- medium (about 30 cm) (for example, varieties Kyoto, Annebell, Bellona);

- undersized (not higher than 25 cm) (for example, varieties Scharlach, Lachsorange, Piccora)

Begonia Gloire de Lorrain(Begonia Gloire de L orraine)

Like begonia Elatior, it belongs to winter-flowering varieties. It was bred in France in 1891 by crossing the Socotrans begonia (Begonia socotrana) and the Drega begonia (Begonia dregei). This rather sprawling, low plant is distinguished by rounded glossy leaves of light green color with a red speck at the base. Begonia blooms begin in the fall and continue throughout the winter. Simple flowers form drooping brushes of pink color. The most popular varieties of the group:

Competitor- sprawling, spectacular bush, strewn with intense pink flowers;

Marina- a low-growing plant with deep pink flowers growing on short flower shoots;

Rosemary- a variety of Swiss selection with many small, pink flowers.

Where does the begonia flower grow?

In the wild, begonia grows in humid forests of tropical latitudes and in high mountain regions. Most types of begonias are found in Argentina and Brazil, Venezuela and Bolivia, Peru and Chile, India, Pakistan, the Malay Islands, Sri Lanka and the western part of the African continent. Despite suitable climatic conditions, the begonia flower does not grow in the expanses of Australia and the islands of Polynesia.

In room conditions, these flowers can grow all over the world, the main thing is to create the necessary microclimate for begonias.

Begonia garden: planting and care in the open field

In mid-latitudes, almost all types of begonias are grown indoors, with the exception of tuberous begonia, which can also be grown in open field.

Planting begonias in the garden is done in early June, when the threat of frost disappears. For the plant, you need to choose places slightly shaded or with diffused sunlight. Before planting a begonia in open ground, the seedling is hardened off by placing it for a week in a well-lit room with an average daytime temperature of 23-27 0 C and a night temperature of 12-15 0 C.

The best soil for begonias is soil mixtures that include leafy soil, humus, peat and sand, combined in a ratio of 1: 0.5: 0.5: 0.5. Drainage is poured at the bottom of the hole (expanded clay, fine gravel or coarse sand). After that, a mixture of peat and compost is added to it, which can be replaced with complex potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. The begonia planted in the garden needs to be watered, and the ground around it should be sprinkled with wood ash. In order to avoid hypothermia of the seedling at night, it is covered with a film or agrofiber.

Proper care tuberous begonia in the open field is not particularly difficult. It is necessary to regularly loosen the ground near the flower, providing oxygen access to the tubers. Garden begonias should be watered depending on the amount of precipitation, usually this is done every 3 days. With the onset of a dry period, the frequency of watering increases with subsequent loosening of the soil. Be careful when watering begonias: the plant feels comfortable at high humidity, but absolutely does not tolerate drops of water on the leaves, as this can lead to a disease such as gray rot.

Begonia in landscape design looks just amazing and allows you to create magnificent flower beds that will delight you all summer long!

Autumn begonia care

In autumn, after the leaves fall, the plant is prepared for winter:

begonia stop watering;
in the first decade of October, begonia tubers are removed from the ground;
the stem of the begonia is cut off, leaving a process of 3 cm from it;
tubers are dried at room temperature for 14 days;
begonia tubers are placed in a wooden box, covered with sand;
tubers are stored in a room with a temperature not lower than 5-6 0 С.

When to dig up begonias?

No need to rush to dig up begonia for the winter immediately after the onset of cold weather. After all, in the fall, the plant grows especially intensively tubers and accumulates nutrients in them, at the same time future flower buds are laid. Begonia must be kept in the soil for as long as possible so that the aerial part turns yellow and dries. Then the entire supply of photosynthesis products from the leaves will inevitably “drain” to the tubers.

Garden begonia growing in a flower bed is dug up with a pitchfork, it is carefully removed with a clod of earth, and, without removing the aerial part, they are laid out in a dry, cool room. A month later, dead stems and soil residues are completely removed. For storage, begonia tubers are placed in containers with dry sand or peat and sprayed once a month with a spray bottle.

Begonias growing in pots can not be dug up, but wait for the stems to completely die off and put away for storage right in the pot. In February-March, begonias begin to be watered, and with the advent of young shoots, they are transplanted into a new container.

Begonia care at home

The question of how to care for begonia at home is of interest to many lovers of indoor plants. In fact, caring for indoor begonias is quite simple. This plant is light-loving, but does not like the direct rays of the sun, so window sills that face east, southeast, northwest or west are used to place it. The main condition: that there are no drafts.

most favorable temperature regime ranges from 22 to 25 0 C in summer and from 15 to 18 0 C in winter. The soil for home begonia is used the same as for growing begonia in the garden: leafy soil, humus, peat and sand in a ratio of 1: 0.5: 0.5: 0.5.

It is necessary to water the begonia in a pot in spring and summer with settled water, preventing the earthen coma from drying out and waterlogging. In winter, watering of deciduous and spray flowers is reduced to a minimum. Tuberous types of begonias cease to moisten, they shed their leaves, after which all dried parts are removed from the plant, and the tubers wait out the cold in dry peat soil.

Top dressing of room begonia is important for the successful development of the plant, and nitrogen fertilizers that stimulate foliage growth are suitable for leafy species, and phosphorus-containing fertilizers for flowering ones.

Begonia transplant

Tuberous types of begonias are transplanted into a new pot and soil every spring, and varieties with a branched or fibrous root need such a procedure when the pot has become small. The plant is removed from the old container and its roots are immersed in a solution of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate) for disinfection. After removing the damaged parts, the plant is planted in a larger pot with fresh soil.

Reproduction of begonias, methods and photos

Spring is best time for breeding begonias. Breeding methods:

rooting cuttings with several (3-5) leaves;
dividing the bush into parts with separate roots;
cutting a large tuber into several parts with sprouts;
leaves, cutting large veins with reverse side sheet and dipping it notch down in the wet sand;
seedlings from seeds germinated at the end of winter.

Propagation of begonias by cuttings

Cuttings are one of the most common ways to propagate begonias. Many amateur flower growers use it due to the fact that it:

easy to perform;
gives fast results;
suitable for all stem begonias;
retains all varietal characteristics.

To propagate begonia in this way, it is enough to cut cuttings at least 10 cm long with a sharp knife. To do this, you can use both the upper and middle parts of the stem. The main condition for a good cutting is the presence of at least two or three buds on it. After that, all excess leaves are removed from it, leaving only one or two top ones. If the leaves are large, cut them in half.

After completing the preparatory operations, you can begin to root the cuttings. Florists use two methods for this:

rooting in water;
rooting in the ground.

Cuttings that will be used for rooting in water do not need further processing. For the material that will be germinated in the substrate, the sections must be sprinkled with wood ash and dried.

Rooting begonias in water

Begonia cuttings are lowered into a container of water, the temperature of which should not differ from the temperature of the room where germination will be carried out. Only soft water can be used, as hard or cold water may be detrimental to the future plant. A container with cuttings is placed in a room with a temperature of 18-20 ° C, well lit by indirect sunlight. It is advisable to use a transparent container to constantly monitor the condition of the cut. If signs of rotting of the begonia stalk are noticed, the cut is updated, and a fresh portion of water is poured into the container. After the appearance of roots about 1-2 cm long on the handle, it can be transplanted into a pre-prepared pot with suitable soil.

Rooting begonias in the ground (substrate)

As a substrate used for rooting cuttings, it is desirable to use begonia soil purchased in specialized stores. However, you can use sand with peat, mixed in a ratio of 3:1. For successful rooting, the room temperature should be in the range of 22-24 ° C. The pot for germination should be selected small size so that the rooted plant not only grows, but also blooms abundantly.

The lower cut of the cutting before planting in the ground must be treated with drugs that stimulate root formation. The seedling is buried in a well-moistened substrate to the level of leaves. After that, the pot with the handle is covered with a glass jar or plastic bottle. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that not a single part of the cutting touches the walls or the lid.

The condensate that appeared on the walls indicates the correct microclimate in a kind of greenhouse. To harden the plant, you need to remove the jar or bottle for several minutes every day and ventilate the future begonia. When the first leaves appear, shelter is no longer produced.

Propagation of begonias by dividing a bush or rhizomes

Bush begonias with a well-developed branched root system can be propagated by dividing the bush or rhizomes. To do this, in the spring, the plant is removed from the pot along with a clod of earth, so as not to damage the roots. After that, the old stems and peduncles, as well as large leaves, are removed from the begonia. The rhizomes are carefully freed from lumps of earth and, with the help of a sharp knife, are divided into several parts. The main condition is the presence of a shoot or bud on each of them. Sections are immediately treated with wood ash. The separated parts are planted in pots with a substrate, which should be used as a special soil for begonias, purchased in flower shops. After abundant watering, the separated plants are placed in a room with good lighting(but not under the direct rays of the sun) and a temperature of 20-25 o C.