beauty, longevity, medicinal properties, easy care- this is all a description of the properties of one plant. Without a doubt, every lover of home flowers will want to see such a combination on their windowsill. Pelargonium is so fond of flower growers that without it it is difficult to imagine a home "flower bed".
Pelargonium is a herbaceous perennial from the geranium family. Often this flower is called geranium, but geranium is a frost-resistant plant that is grown in the garden, pelargonium is a house plant.
The history of this flower began with South Africa. It was from there that the plant was brought to Holland, and then to France and England. Very quickly, because of its beauty and ease of care, pelargonium became popular among flower growers. Literally, the name translates as "stork's beak", because the fruits of the plant are similar to the beak of this bird.
The aroma of pelargonium is considered antibacterial and soothing, and people believe that this flower brings mutual understanding to the family.
Pelargonium care at home
When buying pelargonium, you should pay attention to the condition of the bush and inflorescences. Even if the plant is free of diseases and pests, it needs to be quarantined at home. Pelargonium is not whimsical plant, but there are still features of care, under which it thanks for its juicy and long flowering.
Do I need to transplant pelargonium after purchase
Since the shops usually sell flowers in disposable containers and with unsuitable soil, it makes sense to transplant the plant, but only if the pelargonium does not bloom. For planting, you should use a mixture of sand, turf and leaf soil, humus (1: 2: 2: 2).
If there is no desire to bother with soil preparation, you can use the usual nutrient mixture for flowers, which is sold in stores. Subsequently, pelargonium should be transplanted once a year in autumn or spring. If the pot becomes small, then it is changed. But it is important to know that pelargonium from a larger pot will go green and will not release flowers.
Lighting for pelargoniums
For abundant flowering of pelargonium, good lighting is needed. Because in the shade it grows, and does not throw out buds, or does not bloom for a long time. To provide the plant required amount light, choose sunny window sills, especially you should not place a flower on a table in dark room. If you still want to decorate the interior - place the beauty next to the south window.
Content temperature
Almost all pelargoniums should organize winter rest. The optimum temperature for this is 10°C. If during this period you do not adhere to temperature regime, then you can not wait for the buds. During wintering, if brown edges of the leaves are found, this is a signal that the temperature is low. The pot should be moved away from the glass.
It is not worth overheating in pelargonium, if the summer sun hits it at lunchtime, then the plant should be shaded. For healthy growth, the optimum temperature will be from 18C to 25C. Outdoors, pelargonium tolerates sunny weather well.
Watering and humidity
In summer, watering is needed regular and plentiful, but it is important to ensure that the water does not stagnate. When planting, pay attention to good drainage. It can be sea pebbles or broken brick. Expanded clay will also perfectly cope with this role. Be sure to have drainage holes in the pots so that excess water drains.
The signal for watering will be dry soil. In summer, in the heat, they are watered 2 times, early in the morning and in the evening. In winter, watering is reduced to once a week or even two. It is impossible to moisten and spray the leaves, this will damage the plant. Pelargonium is watered under the root, trying not to get on the leaves. For good aeration of the root system and to prevent decay, the soil should be periodically loosened. If the watering of the pelargonium is incorrect, then it will let you know about it with brown circles on the leaves.
top dressing
Pelargonium needs constant feeding. The exception is winter, that is, a period of rest. In spring and summer, fertilizer should be applied once every two weeks.
Pelargonium is fed with minerals. For the healthy development of a plant, 3 components are needed - potassium, magnesium, nitrogen. On sale there are ready-made complexes with additional additives. If fertilizers are made independently, then the same parts of minerals are taken, but before flowering, the composition of nitrogen is reduced, and potassium is increased.
For, to increase the number of buds, flower growers add iodine. To do this, take 1 drop of iodine per 1 liter warm water. One bush accounts for 50 ml of solution. Water over the wall of the pot to avoid burns.
Fertilizers are a very important component in the care of pelargonium, but it is important not to overfeed the plant. If the leaves begin to turn yellow, then the dose should be adjusted.
Growing pelargonium from seeds
- Given that the seeds are quite large, it is best to plant one seed in separate cups.
- Embedding depth 0.5-1 cm.
- Some flower growers still prefer to save space on the windowsill at first by planting pelargonium seeds in boxes or large containers in order to later pick seedlings into separate containers. in this case, the distance is at least 2 cm.
- The soil can be used universal for potted plants.
- Experienced flower growers recommend soaking the seeds in a growth stimulator for a couple of hours before planting. This will give an additional incentive: they will sprout faster, the seedlings will be more powerful.
- Sprouting seedlings at room temperature, in a well-lit room.
Care should be taken of the sprouts, periodically watering and monitoring the temperature of 20-25 ° C. When two or three true leaves appear, the pelargonium should be seated. It is believed that when propagated by seeds, the flowering of pelargonium will be more abundant, it will be able to release up to 30 buds.
Seedlings are planted in a permanent pot when the plants rise well, up to 10-12 cm in height.
Pelargonium propagation by cuttings
It is necessary to start reproduction by cuttings in March.
- Cuttings are cut from the donor plant with 2-3 internodes, approximately 5-7 cm long.
- You can soak the cut of the cutting in crushed charcoal, this will save it from decay.
- It is desirable to decontaminate the soil, in order to avoid the spread of fungal spores, especially if you take soil from the garden.
- After that, you should moisten the substrate and stick the cuttings into it.
- Cover with a jar on top, you can use plastic bottle pre-cut in half.
- In order not to rot, you should not overheat them, the temperature is up to 22-23 ° C.
- Moderately, periodically moisten the soil.
- Good rooting takes about 1.5-3 weeks.
- You can also place the cutting in water, and when it starts rooting, transplant it into the soil.
Both methods of germinating pelargonium cuttings are widely used, the first is convenient because the plants take root immediately, which gives a certain advantage. The second method can be called "lazy": for a long time the plants do not need to be watered, just changing the water every few days is enough.
However, when planting cuttings with the resulting roots in the ground, the plants do not experience any particular discomfort and are quickly accepted.
Reproduction by dividing the bush
Overgrown bushes can be divided without damage and get several plants. In turn, the division of the bush - a rejuvenating procedure, can be carried out in conjunction with pruning.
- To divide the bush, water it well.
- An hour later, carefully remove the clod of earth from the pot.
- They inspect the root, carefully divide it into parts with a knife in order to save several points of growth for each new bush.
- Long branches are cut, shortening to a height of 5-10 cm.
- Planted in nutrient soil, maintaining the same level of the root neck, watered abundantly.
- At first, the bushes will tie and shed their leaves, do not worry, this is normal. After 7-10 days, when the turgor (leaf tone) is restored, feed the pelargoniums to further stimulate the growth of green mass.
- After 3-4 months, the plants will be able to bloom.
Pelargonium pruning and rejuvenating bush transplant
Pruning pelargonium photo How to trim pelargonium
All pelargoniums grow very quickly in height. And over time, the stems "bald". Therefore, the flower needs constant pruning. Without this, it will lose its decorative properties, it may stop throwing out buds. Pruning is also used to rejuvenate the bush. The best time for this is autumn.
They cut not only the top, but also the edges of the earthy coma along with the roots. In the spring, during transplantation, it is also desirable to cut off the pelargonium.
But it should be noted that circumcision postpones flowering by 3-4 months. In order to form a low and fluffy bush with large inflorescences, you need to cut it short, leaving small stumps, about 5 cm. Cut a suitable branch just above the internode. The cut must be oblique. It is also important to ensure that after pruning there are buds that do not grow deep into the bush. To form a dense crown, pelargonium is pinched.
Possible problems in care
- Yellowing of leaf plates. Most likely, this is due to root rot, in this case, transplanting the plant into another soil will help.
- Yellowing of fox edges. guilty Not proper care: heat air, insufficient watering, lack of air due to overcompaction of the soil. Perhaps the plant does not have enough fertilizer, so top dressing is needed.
- Stem rot, leaf wilt. It is necessary to remove damaged stems and reduce watering.
- Pelargonium does not bloom. If this happens, then most likely the reason is stagnant water - reduce watering and make sure that the water does not stagnate, little light - move the plant to the south side, but make sure that the air temperature does not rise above 25C.
- Stunted growth, wilted leaves. If these signs are present, then first you should check the soil for acidity, it should not exceed 5.5 pH, this can also be caused by a lack of nitrogen.
- If the pot has become small, then the plant may stop growing.
Pelargonium diseases
Diseases of pelargonium photo and description In the photo: oedema
Oedema, edema. Manifested in the formation of tubercles, growths on the leaves. The disease is caused by excessive waterlogging of the soil. The way out is to reduce watering and cut off all diseased leaves.
Pelargonium verticillium wilt photo What to do
verticillium wilt. A very dangerous disease, almost fatal for pelargoniums. The way out is the destruction of diseased plants, all shoots with signs of the disease. Treatment of plants with trichodermin biofungidide under each bush 2 g of the drug. Fundazol 50 SP 0.1% and Topsin M 70 SP 0.1% showed themselves well.
Gray rot
. It appears as brown spots all over the base of the plant. The leaves also react to the disease by yellowing and wilting. A gray fungus appears in the foci of the disease.
Gray rot in pelargonium occurs from an excess of moisture. A large amount of nitrogen in top dressing can also cause this phenomenon.
To combat gray rot, I cut off the affected parts of the plant. The flower is transplanted into a new soil and pot. Pelargonium is treated with systemic fungicides.
stem and root rot . With this disease, the root neck turns black and begins to rot. The leaves lose their saturated color, turn pale, and over time, completely turn yellow and wither. The disease appears due to increased moisture and low acidity of the soil. To combat rot, plants are treated with drugs such as Fitolavin, Biporam.
Stem and root late blight. When pelargonium is affected by late blight fungus, it withers and rots very quickly. In most cases, the spore is transmitted with the ground, but can be carried by a draft from one plant to another. The impetus for the development of the disease is high humidity. The disease begins with the roots, covering them with spots of rot.
At this time, the growth of the plant slows down and the color of the leaves turns pale, the signs of the disease become similar to a lack of moisture. But when watering increases, the fungus gains momentum, multiplying and affecting all branches very quickly. Also, late blight is characterized by a white fluff in the focus of rot. Late blight is treated in the early stages. For treatment, the flower is processed Bordeaux mixture, the affected parts are removed, and charcoal is poured onto the cut. Be sure to transplant the plant into sterile soil and a pot.
Types of pelargonium with photos and descriptions
To all the advantages of pelargonium, you can also add a variety of species, of which there are more than 250 pieces in nature. The whole genus of pelargoniums is divided into 7 groups.
Zonal pelargoniums
The largest group in terms of the number of varieties. Includes thousands of varieties. The leaves have a small soft fluff and wavy edges of the plate, densely distributed along the entire base of the stem. If you rub a leaf of zonal pelargonium, then a specific sharp will appear. The stems of the flower are straight.
Flowers collected in large and bright brushes, depending on the variety, can be:
- simple (Blanca variety with snow-white flowers, Yitka variety with delicate salmon-pink flowers) - up to 5 petals
- semi-double (grade A.M. Mayne with beet-fuchsia flowers) - up to 8 petals
- terry (grade Ada Suterby with pink flowers) - more than 8 petals
The shape of the bud may also differ:
- tulip (Carmen Andrea variety - petals are bright red, almost burgundy, slightly wavy edges, Emma fran Bengtsbo variety - noble elongated buds with milky white petals) - buds look like a tulip, do not fully open.
- cactus - the petals are twisted.
- star-shaped (Borthwood Stellar variety with intense pink flowers, Aunty Pam-Stellar variety - neon pink petals) - inflorescences look like stars.
- rosebuds (Apple Blossom Rosebud variety - the most chic variety zonal pelargoniums with white buds and pink edging) - inflorescences like roses.
According to the color of the petals, zonal pelargoniums can be:
- bicolor
- tricolor
- speckled (grade Confetti Red - bright orange petals with specks and red strokes)
- bird's egg color
Zonal pelargoniums are different in size:
- microminiature - 10cm
- miniature - 10-13cm
- dwarf (variety Pac Jana-2 - dark pink flower with a white spot, variety Frou Frou with bright pink flowers) - 13-20cm
- normal - 25-60cm
- Airins - up to 80cm
Royal pelargonium description and conditions of care
This is a chic group that is distinguished by its large bright colors. In some varieties, the bud reaches 8 cm. But in order to achieve flowering, you need to make a lot of effort and create certain conditions in order to royal pelargonium threw away the buds. The most important period for them is winter.
- At this time, it is necessary to observe 2 modes, temperature and irrigation mode.
- Watering in winter should be minimal, frequent watering will lead to rapid growth without further flowering, the optimal number of waterings is 2 times a month.
Temperature for wintering - maximum + 15C, but preferably lower, + 8C - an ideal environment for laying buds. There are exceptions for which a warmer wintering, at + 20- + 25С, is possible - these are the Imperial and Sally Munro varieties. The flowering of this group of pelargoniums is short, until summer.
The most popular varieties are Askham Fringed Aztec, Burghi, Elegance Jeanette, PAC Aristo Salmon, Rose Pope.
angels
This group of pelargoniums took its name from the Angeline variety, which participated in the creation of these hybrids. Angels are similar to the royal group, but smaller in size. Flowers resemble violets, the upper petals are usually larger than the lower ones.
Flowering is abundant and long. Leaves with rounded teeth. The flower is not whimsical at all, but it tolerates wintering well at low temperatures. The shape of the bush is upright good lighting, in the shade it can go into an ampel, so angels are common for decorating terraces. The leaves are fragrant with mint-lemon aroma.
Spectacular varieties - Eskay Saar, PAC Angeleyes Bicolor, PAC Angeleyes Light, Quantock May, Swedish Angel, PAC Angeleyes Randy, PAC Angeleyes Blueberry, PAC Angeleyes Viola.
Ivy Pelargonium Pelargonium peltatum
They got their name due to the leaves that look like ivy leaves. A feature of this group is that the branches of the bush grow downward. It is ivy-leaved pelargoniums that adorn balconies and verandas. In a flower bed, ivy-leaved pelargoniums cover the ground like a carpet.
The flowers are varied, depending on the variety, simple, double or semi-double. The shades are also completely different. They may be variegated. The leaves are slightly shiny, matte in some varieties. A feature of care is the creation of a cool air temperature in winter. The group is resistant to fungal diseases. Favorite varieties are Ice Rose, PAC Kate, PAC Tomgirl, SIL Stellena, PAC Vicky, PAC Lilac Rose, Mozaic Sugar Baby.
Succulent Pelargoniums
The most exotic group among all pelargoniums. It has an unusual stem shape. Will look great in compositions such as alpine slide, bonsai. Leaves and flowers are small. Succulent geraniums grow slowly.
Types of succulent pelargonium:
- angular
- fleshy
- hunchbacked
- another
- cortuzolifolia
- thick-stemmed
- fluffy-leaved
Unique - hybrid pelargoniums
This group is over 150 years old. They bred it when crossing the royal and brilliant pelargonium. The leaves are fragrant, dark green. Petals bicolor. The bush is large enough, grows up to 50 cm, periodically you need to cut and pinch.
Fragrant Pelargonium
The hottest group. The smell appears if you rub the leaf, but many varieties are fragrant even with the slightest draft. The leaves of plants can be with the most diverse and unusual smell, such as the smell of lilac, pineapple, rose, coconut, ginger.
The bush grows large, more than a meter. not always used as a decorative element. More often for the production of geranium oil. Interesting varieties are Ardwick Cinnamon (smell of cinnamon), Lady Plymouth (smell of menthol), P. laevigatum, Both*s Snowflake, P. tomentozum (smell of menthol), Eucament, Orange Fizz (smell of lemon).
Pelargonium zonal is familiar to everyone. It is often mistakenly referred to as geranium. A popular plant can often be found on the windowsills of clinics and other social institutions. Flower growers love pelargonium for its unpretentiousness and almost year-round flowering. Its large spherical inflorescences of gentle tones adorn open flower beds and indoor flowerpots, verandas and balconies. The zonal pelargonium stems branch well, so the bushes look lush and beautiful.
A multi-thousand variety of species, many of which feel great at home, attracts the attention of florists, flower decorators, breeders and just amateurs of indoor floriculture to pelargonium, especially since growing and caring for a charming flower is very simple if you follow simple rules.
Below you will get acquainted with the amazing variety of species and varieties of zonal pelargonium. Their bright photos fascinate, and the description helps to orientate. Also you will find helpful tips for watering, transplanting and propagating a flower.
The genus Pelargonium, or Pelargonium, includes over three hundred species. The plant got its name for the characteristic structure of the fruit. It is a narrow box pointed towards the top. Its bizarre shape is associated with the stork's beak. This similarity is reflected in the name of the species: pelargos is translated from Greek as "stork".
Pelargonium was brought to Europe at the end of the 17th century from the expanses of South Africa, where it is found in the wild. Europeans immediately appreciated the beauty and splendor exotic flower, as well as its undemanding to the conditions of detention. Very soon, the plant settled literally on every window sill, garden bed, greenhouse. It even began to be considered a symbol of the Victorian style and an indispensable attribute of the luxurious home interiors of the British nobility.
The plant came to Russia much later, when in Europe they began to forget about it, classifying it as a petty-bourgeois bad taste. For a long time, our grandmothers kept devotion to red and pink geraniums. Fortunately, European breeders have brought back the South African guest from oblivion, brought about 10,000 varieties. Naturally, florists and flower growers could not pass by such a variety, and pelargonium again became the most popular plant. garden beds and hanging pots.
Species richness determined the diversity of geraniums. The species differ in the shape and color of the flowers, the height of the bush, the shape of the leaves and other features. Some of the species are suitable for cultivation only in greenhouses and botanical gardens. From some, an essential oil is extracted, which is popular in soap making and perfumery. And only a few varieties are grown at home, most often zonal pelargonium, or garden geranium.
Varieties of zonal pelargonium
Pelargonium zonale, or Pelargonium zonale, is the most common species, which is characterized by unpretentiousness and durability (does not lose its decorative effect up to 20 years). In the wild, as well as in open ground and southern climates, bushes can be quite tall, up to one and a half meters. In room conditions - a little over half a meter. They lend themselves well to formation, can be grown in the form of a tree or lush bushes. As the shoots grow, they become woody.
On rounded pubescent leaves are concentric circles in the form of a horseshoe or a ball. In color, they differ from the rest of the leaf plate: they can be a tone darker or lighter, or contrasting shades. For such a division into zones, the view got its name. Depending on the variety, the leaves differ in their size, shape and color.
Flowering varieties have abundant and long flowering from spring to autumn. They can bloom all year round if properly cared for. Zonal pelargonium flowers are collected in large spherical inflorescences, they can be double and non-double. Their coloration is very diverse: there are varieties with flowers of white, red, pink, purple and even two colors. The petals may have specks, strokes, or a colored border.
For the convenience of orientation in the abundant catalog of varieties of zonal pelargonium, a conditional classification has been adopted:
- According to the growth of the stem, plants are divided into:
- tall - from 42 cm in height;
- medium height - not higher than 40 cm;
- undersized (dwarf) - bushes up to 20 cm in height;
- miniature - grow no more than 12.5 cm (varieties White Butterfly, Dwarf Nano Violet of the Biotechnica agricultural company).
- By the number of petals:
- simple - up to 5 petals (varieties: Chandelier Bicolor, Blanca, Pelargonium Paul f1, Southern Night, Moulin Rouge);
- semi-double - the number of petals is from 5 to 8 (varieties: Multibloom Lavender, Violet Star, Raffaella, Toscana);
- double - lush flowers with more than 8 petals (varieties: Pink, Grandiflora Mix, Colorama, Scarlet Chandelier, Wilhelm Langguth variegated variety).
- According to the shape and color of the petals, varieties are divided into:
- bouquet - a varietal group with simple flowers that form large umbrella inflorescences;
- star-shaped - flowers with pointed serrated petals, leaves strongly dissected, similar to palms with widely spread fingers;
- cactus-flowering - the petals are narrow, often twisted along, arranged horizontally, the flowers look like cactus-like dahlias;
- phlox-flowered - two-color flowers in the center are white, and crimson along the edges of the petals;
- tulip-flowered - the buds of these varieties of zonal pelargonium do not fully open, their shape resembles half-closed bud flowers;
- pink buds - breeders call this varietal group Rosebuds (from the English Rosebud), it includes varieties with flowers, whose shape is similar to small roses, the flowers are double, lush, the petals do not open to the end, twisting inwards and forming a kind of rose buds;
- clove-flowered - dissected wavy petals at the edges resemble carnation flowers.
- Leaf shape and color:
- green varieties - green leaves with darker or lighter circles in the form of a horseshoe;
- variegated varieties of zonal pelargonium - grown mainly because of the beauty of the leaf. The flowers are small and inconspicuous, but the leaves are surprisingly beautiful, bizarre in shape and color. Zones can be located not only in the form of concentric patterns, but also sectorally. The combinations of shades are unusual, there are varieties with shades of pink, bronze, brown, yellow, white, silver, and even combinations of two or three shades. Plants are more whimsical to care for than ordinary varieties.
Almost all pelargoniums of this species are distinguished by a strongly pronounced tart smell of leaves, although this smell is far from pleasant for everyone, but its properties to repel moths and insects are appreciated by housewives. Also, the aroma of geranium is used in herbal medicine for the prevention and treatment of insomnia, neuroses and other consequences of stress.
Healing aromatherapy can also be done at home. It is enough to sit at a short distance (0.5 meters) from a flowerpot with pelargonium or plants in the garden, move the leaves to enhance the release of the smell, take 2-3 deep breaths, and then breathe in the usual rhythm for 10 minutes. Improvement in well-being occurs after two weeks of such therapy.
Zonal Pelargonium Care
Luckily for beginner growers, these plants are very easy to care for. They are not as capricious as other residents. flower pots(like anthurium or calla). Proper watering and bright light are sufficient conditions for your pet to thank you with a long lush flowering.
Lighting and temperature
The lack of light has a deplorable effect on the state of the green pet. Small leaves, half-naked stems and lack of flowering - this type of pelargonium is unlikely to suit you. In order for the bush to branch well and form a luxurious hat of inflorescences, it needs to provide bright lighting. The south sunny window is the perfect place. Here the plant will get its needed 4-8 hours of bright sun.
If the sun has left yellowish spots on the leaves, it is better to shade the plant a little. This is true for the hottest summer days. In winter, so that the shoots do not stretch, you can illuminate the plant with lamps.
In summer optimum temperature- 20-23 degrees during the day and 12-15 at night. In summer thirty-degree heat, the plant ceases to bloom and fades. In winter, plants are kept at a temperature of 12-20 degrees. Blooming geraniums are afraid of drafts and touching with delicate leaves of cold glass.
Watering and humidity
The second important parameter in care is rational watering. It must be very dosed: with a lack of moisture, the pelargonium leaves turn yellow and wither, with an excess, the root system rots (especially dwarf varieties). Properly water abundantly, but only when it dries upper layer soil. In winter, watering is reduced to 1 time in 1.5-2 weeks.
Plants do not need spraying. If it comes into contact with pubescent leaves, water can leave stains. In general, pelargonium is calm about air humidity, and only in the cold season, when heating is turned on, dry air can harm green bushes. Therefore, in winter it is better to put a flowerpot with a flower on a pallet with expanded clay. Expanded clay regularly moisten.
Transplanting and fertilizing
Pelargonium zonal grows rapidly, its roots are tightly braided with an earthen lump and are shown from the drainage holes. You can transplant it at any time from spring to autumn. If the plants are kept in the garden, they are transplanted into flower pots in early autumn, where they continue to develop. Planted again in summer open ground.
For young bushes, they take a pot of almost the same volume as the previous one (the difference is only 1-1.5 cm), adults are transplanted into a flowerpot of the same volume, changing only the substrate. The latter should be sufficiently loose: this can be achieved by a combination of peat, loamy soil, sand, perlite and charcoal.
Feed plants during the flowering period with diluted complex fertilizers for pelargoniums (fertilizers for tomatoes or universal fertilizers for flowering plants are also suitable). Fertilizer should contain an increased amount of phosphorus and potassium, a reduced amount of nitrogen. Do not fertilize plants after transplantation, waiting at least a month and a half. In winter, top dressing is carried out no more than once every 4-5 weeks.
pruning
Peduncles appear only on young shoots, so it is important to form the bushes correctly. If this is not done, the stems will stretch, the bush will lose decorative form and the flowers will become rare. Pelargonium zonal is distinguished by extremely rapid growth, so it must be cut and pinched. The first pinching of young plants is done by removing the growth point above the 5-6th leaf.
Diseases and pests
Can spoil a plant spider mites, aphids, thrips, mealybug. If signs of damage occur, it is important to treat the bush with special preparations in a timely manner.
Most often, pelargoniums are affected by the whitefly. Finding small white butterflies and their larvae is easy on the underside of the leaves. You can fight this pest with soapy water. The bush is thoroughly washed with soap and covered with polyethylene for several days. In case of heavy damage, the bushes are treated with actara (according to the instructions).
One of the most dangerous diseases of pelargonium is the black leg. In this case, cuttings of young plants are more often affected. The development of this disease is always associated with care errors: excessive watering, low air temperature, a spacious pot.
Mold also causes trouble for flower growers. It is formed in the form of a gray coating on the leaves, while the leaves turn yellow, brownish spots appear on them. Fungicide treatment helps to cope with the fungus. It is important to remove wilted leaves and flowers in time so as not to spread the infection.
Reproduction of pelargonium zonal
In home floriculture, two methods of propagation of this plant are practiced: cuttings and sowing seeds.
Reproduction by cuttings
This is the simplest and, accordingly, the most popular way. Cuttings retain the characteristics of the variety. What does it mean? When propagating, you get new plants with exactly the same varietal characteristics as the parent specimen. In addition, dividing by cuttings is a great way to rejuvenate a stretched old plant.
On the handle, the top of the shoot (5-15 cm) is cut off, half a centimeter below the leaf node. Peduncles and lower leaves are cut from the cutting, and the cut is dried in the air for a couple of hours. If the remaining leaves on the handle are very large, they can be cut in half. You can also root in a glass of water, but faster and more reliable - in a mixture of peat with sand or perlite.
The substrate with cuttings is moistened as it dries, avoiding water stagnation (otherwise a black leg will develop). At warm temperatures and diffused light, roots appear after two weeks. Strengthened sprouts are fertilized with complex fertilizers, and after a while they are transferred to small pots.
Growing from seed
Unlike propagation by cuttings, this method does not guarantee that new plants will retain the characteristics of the mother variety. This remark, however, applies only to hybrid species. So, more often than others, a hybrid mixture of seeds of the first (F1) and second (F2) generations is found on sale. On a bag with such a mixture it will be written: “Zonal Pelargonium F1” and then the name of the variety.
Varieties are obtained by crossing two copies different varieties. Plants from these seeds are popular among beginners in floriculture, although they do not have a variety of flowers. In contrast, species zonal pelargoniums are of great value to breeders and are no less successfully propagated by seeds.
It is best to sow the seeds of zonal pelargonium at the end of winter - then in the spring the seedlings will gain strength and will delight with buds in the summer, but you can propagate in this way at other times of the year. The seed is sown on the surface of a sterile mixture of perlite and peat, sprinkled on top with a thin, several millimeters layer. You can also sow in separate cups - in this case, picking is not needed. Some growers advise pre-soaking the seeds in wet paper towels. If they are covered with a thick skin, it can be rubbed sandpaper fine granularity.
For rooting, containers with seedlings are kept warm (20-25 degrees), usually not covered from above, with diffused lighting. Moisten the substrate regularly. Green sprouts appear a few weeks after sowing. When two pairs of leaves form on them, seedlings that grow in a common container dive into individual cups or pots. These pelargoniums bloom earlier and more abundantly than those propagated by cuttings.
For almost a century, breeders around the world have been breeding new and new varieties of pelargonium. Thanks to their labors, an incredibly large number of various varieties and varieties of this ornamental plant were obtained. The culture is not overly demanding on growing conditions and, with proper care, will surely answer you with lush, luxurious flowering. For your attention, detailed information about zonal pelargonium, as well as its best varieties (photos with names and descriptions are attached).
About zonal pelargonium
This is one of the most common plant groups, represented by a large number of species and varieties. Zonal varieties belonging to the group of the same name are considered for the reason that they have a certain zone on the leaves, painted in a different color (most often in the form of a small annular or rounded spot). Pelargonium zonal is perfect for growing not only indoors, but also in open areas.
The variety is represented by an erect, fairly branched and powerful bush, densely covered with foliage. The bush is covered with small lush flowers-umbrellas. The leaves are strongly pubescent, have a specific smell. Zonal pelargoniums are also divided into several varieties depending on the number of petals on the flowers. So, they are 5-8-petal (sometimes more).
Pelargonium - unpretentious plant
Zonal pelargonium is a plant that is quite unpretentious to growing conditions, but quite demanding for care. It is necessary to provide it with the right amount solar heat and light, nutritious and regular top dressing, saturate with moisture, etc.
Advice. In winter, it is necessary to provide the plant with sufficient access to cool air. If this is not possible, remove as many bare shoots from the plant as possible in the spring.
The main classification of zonal pelargonium
Zonal pelargoniums, in turn, can be divided into several subgroups:
- Rosaceae. All varieties presented in this category have luxurious double flowers, outwardly very reminiscent of classic roses.
rosacea pelargonium
- Tulip-shaped. Flowers of varieties from this group are small flowers collected in inflorescences. Outwardly, they resemble small unopened tulip-shaped buds. The petals of tulip-shaped pelargoniums are distinguished by a rather unusual appearance: they are slightly inclined inward and lowered, as if they had already begun to wither. This in no way means that the plants really wither. In fact, the sluggish appearance of the petals - specific feature varieties.
Tulip Pelargonium
- Star-shaped. Star-shaped pelargoniums are completely different from their "tribesmen": data flowers dwarf plants have unusual shape pointed star. Moreover, quite often the two largest petals have an elongated shape with a sharp end, which distinguishes them from the rest.
star pelargonium
- Carnations. The varieties presented in this category are outwardly very similar to garden cloves: they are just as large, with carved petals of a fairly bright shade.
Carnation Pelargonium
- Cactus. A fairly rare variety of zonal pelargonium, which is represented by a fairly large, strongly leafy bush. Leaves are broad and bright green. Flowers of cactus-like varieties look rather unusual: their petals seem to be folded into narrow tubes. Quite often they have a slightly "tousled" look.
cactus pelargonium
- Deacons. Quite young hybrids appeared on the world flower market less than 50 years ago. Represented by a very compact profusely flowering shrub with a small flower rosette of pale peach, pink or red.
Pelargonium deacon
Let us consider in more detail several of the best representatives in each category of the zonal variety of pelargonium. Among the most popular rose varieties several can be distinguished:
- April Snow - dwarf neat plant with small double flowers Pink colour in the form of roses.
- Denise is a powerful plant that every year is covered with a large terry cap of pink or peach color.
- Monseruds Rosen - not easy to grow - quite difficult to form the desired shape, has a luxurious burgundy flowering.
Among the most popular star varieties pelargonium can be distinguished as follows:
- Aunty Pam - Stellar. The variety is represented by a fairly compact well-branched bush, densely covered with luxurious bright pink flower rosettes. Outwardly, the flower petals resemble a small terry carnation.
- Borthwood - Stellar. Another excellent star-shaped variety, represented by a strongly flowering dwarf bush, the leaves of which are slightly shaped like frog legs.
- fandango. A rather unusual variety, the flowers of which look slightly "shabby": the shape of the petals is slightly torn, with fuzzy edges. Flowering in plants is abundant, lush, the flowers are distinguished by a pleasant pale coral hue.
Pelargonium Fandango
Among cactus varieties pelargonium can be noted such.
Geranium is a predominantly perennial (most often herbaceous) plant belonging to the geranium family. There are also shrub species. It is characterized by large (usually 5 petal) flowers of various colors. Each sheet is a separate plate with smooth edges or dissected like individual fingers. The shape of the fruit is a box, resembling the long nose of a crane.
Growing geraniums is so easy that you can say: "Geranium is the most unpretentious culture". Moreover, it does not matter whether it grows in your garden, being a real geranium, recognized by botanical classifications, or is located in an apartment on the windowsill. In the second case, home flower only conditionally it will be possible to call geraniums, since most likely it will belong to another genus of the same family - pelargoniums.
Pelargoniums differ from geraniums in the irregular symmetry of the flower petals, the presence of a special narrow strip of nectar at one of the petals, the number of flowers collected together in one bright inflorescence. And, of course, frost resistance. Since Africa is the birthplace of pelargonium, this houseplant can tolerate winter time only in warmth. Real geranium, which came from the alpine meadows of Europe, from North America calmly overwinter in the temperate climate of the northern hemisphere, even in the wild.
Planting a geranium
Landing methods
When planting geraniums in the open, it is best to use seedlings purchased or grown in advance. In this case, it is necessary to plant, choosing not too light soils. Geranium is a plant that loves loose, but rather heavy soils. In the flower garden, it is not recommended to thicken the plantings. 12-15 plants per square meter are enough to make them feel good.
When landing in an apartment, choose sunny places, and do not be afraid of the brightest rays. Pelargonium in last resort may discolor the leaves a little, but then it will calmly recover. Choose a flower pot not too small, with good drainage. Water generously for the first week. This also applies street views geraniums and domestic pelargoniums.
Optimal landing time
In order for geraniums to please you on the site, it is better to plant them in open ground after the threat of night frosts, which means the beginning of June for Central Russia.
If desired, put new flower on the windowsill, do this at any time except autumn. Spring, summer and even the end of winter are the right time to plant pelargoniums. They will have time to feed on solar energy for further overwintering.
soil for the plant
When choosing soil for pelargoniums, you can use ready-made mixtures of their stores, or you can make them yourself in the following proportion:
- sod land - 2 parts;
- leaf humus - 2 parts;
- sand - 1 part;
- peat - 1 part.
Some recipes mention clay as a substrate component. In this case, you need to take a share of clay and sand and add 3 shares of compost land there.
Location and lighting for the plant
Geranium is a very sun-loving plant. It withstands both the bright sun without any shading (in this case it blooms profusely and magnificently), and the usual light of windows facing north. But in this case, additional illumination will be necessary for flowering. When in the spring (already in April) daily air temperatures begin to exceed 10 degrees, geraniums can (and should) be taken out into the street. And with the departure of the likelihood of frost, you can completely move the geranium pots to fresh air.
Air humidity
Humidity does not matter much for geraniums. But what you definitely should not do is spray the plant on the leaves. It's more likely to do harm than good. But what
Temperature regime for a flower
Pelargonium prefers moderate temperatures. In summer, about 20 degrees, in winter - about 15. Do not overcool the flower with temperatures below 10 degrees. This can lead to irreversible consequences and the loss of the plant.
How to water properly
Pelargonium should be watered like any other home flower. In moderation, avoiding constant waterlogging of the soil. Usually watered once or twice a week in summer. Ideally, you should not set a fixed watering schedule. The main thing to watch out for is that the clod of earth on top has time to dry out in the period from watering to the next watering. Since it is always better to under-water than over-water, you can also water on a tray, allowing the soil to absorb the right amount of moisture and draining excess water after a few hours.
But don't dry it out either. In winter, watered on average once every 10 days.
How many types of pelargonium exist, so many different options soil moisture. After all, royal pelargonium loves watering very much, and zonal - much less.
Flower nutrition and fertilizer
In the case when you want to achieve a good and abundant flowering of pelargonium, feed it once a week. IN mineral fertilizers give the predominance of potassium and phosphorus components.
In winter, it is better to either completely stop fertilizing or do it no more than 1 time per month.
pruning
Pruning geraniums (pelargonium) is simply necessary:
- a compact decorative appearance is formed;
- the process of future flowering is more powerful;
- using pruning, cuttings are obtained for breeding new plants
Trimming methods
Trimmed either selectively or completely mother plant. Tools are clean and disinfected. Knife, pruner, razor should be sharp enough.
Geranium transplant
You only need to repot geraniums when you see that the pot is getting too small for the plant. This can happen or when buying finished flower in the store or when growing. Young plants are transplanted once or twice a year. Then you don't have to do it.
Transplant methods
Since geraniums take root remarkably and do not require much effort, transplantation can be carried out by transshipment (when a clod of earth is carefully rearranged entirely into a larger pot and filled with earth). If the roots are damaged by the disease, then it is better to clean the roots from the old filler and plant them in a new pot with new soil.
Geranium propagation
Geraniums are propagated in order to obtain new plants that will eventually replace the old ones. It is much easier and faster to do this than with representatives of many other families.
Of course, there are exceptions here too. So rarer varieties bred in Lately breeders require specific conditions and effort. But basically pelargonium breeds without difficulty.
Reproduction methods
If the geranium is ampelous, then it is possible to cut off individual cuttings for propagation. In order for your bush pelargonium (low, compact) to remain as attractive, usually cut off all the stems, leaving 2-3 cm.
Sequencing:
- the stalk is cut at an angle;
- cut off all buds and leaves, leaving 3-4 buds;
- dry the cutting (5-7 cm long) in the air (can be treated with coal dust);
- planted in water or small cups with well-drained and disinfected soil;
- provide constant maintenance of humidity and temperature of about 20 degrees.
In some cases, seed propagation is practiced for geraniums. In this case, the optimal time for planting seeds is spring. To facilitate the process, you can use peat tablets.
Flowering period, flower shape
It is impossible to give specific dates for the flowering of geraniums. Depending on the variety and even on the conditions of detention, it can bloom all year round. Flowers are also unimaginably diverse in both color and shape.
There are flowers similar to roses in doubleness and size, they are similar to stars or tulips. But the usual flowering time is spring, summer and early autumn.
Plant care after flowering
In autumn, when the vegetation and flowering period is over, it is recommended to prepare geraniums for winter rest. To do this, the plant is pruned (optional), the flower stalks are necessarily removed in order to avoid decay, watered and cleaned in a cooler place, limiting both watering and feeding for a dormant period.
Problems, diseases and pests in a flower
Geraniums in nature have practically no pests. Flower diseases can be divided into two categories: viral and fungal. Fungal infections tend to spread rather slowly and are much easier to treat. Viral (bacterial) ones are almost not treatable, it is easier to start another copy of the plant, destroying the one that suddenly fell ill with the infection together.
In room conditions, the plant can get sick:
- root or stem rot;
- leaf spot;
- fungus Botrytis;
- bacteriosis;
- leaf rust.
Root (stem) rot is caused by the fungus Pythium or Rhizoctonia. Characteristic of this disease are the stems and leaves that first become brown and then black. In the future, the entire flower undergoes decay and dies.
Control measures: control of soil and air humidity, the use of antifungal drugs.
Spotting is caused by the fungus Alternaria (leaf damage in the form of brown spots with yellow patches), or the fungus Cercospora (leaf defects in the form of pale spots turning into a grayish coating).
Prevention of the disease is similar to all antifungal. Namely: removing excess moisture, preventing the growth of green mass for accelerated drying.
The fungus Botrytis begins with spots on the leaves with a grayish coating, on the stems - Brown. Sometimes the disease comes from high humidity, sometimes from the fact that the falling flowers are not removed in time and remain on the leaves, creating weeping areas.
Prevention methods- watering without affecting the leaves, timely picking up wilted flowers. Watering is recommended to be done in the morning, so that the water has time to dry before the cool night time. In case of disease, it is necessary to fight by removing infected parts and whole plants.
Bacteriosis can be very difficult to diagnose because its symptoms vary depending on the different varieties. But the progress of the disease is fast. Viruses destroy the plant with brown spots, deformed veins, etc.
Leaf rust manifests itself in the form of yellow spots, first on the upper surface of the sheet, then passing to its lower side. On the lower surfaces, clumps with spores form, which open and form a rim in the form of rusty stitches. Spreading, spores infect the entire leaf, leading to its death.
Ways to protect the plant - prevent the accumulation of water on the leaves, avoid high humidity at low temperatures, inspect the flower from time to time and remove the infected parts, and then carry out the treatment with fungicides.
Popular species (varieties)
Among the varieties of street geranium can be identified:
- swamp;
- blood red;
- Himalayan.
Pelargoniums can be divided into:
- a huge assortment of zonal pelargoniums (due to a specially colored zone in the middle of the flower);
- ivy pelargoniums (ampelous) with whip-like flexible stems;
- varieties of varieties royal (large-flowered) »;
- several types of pelargoniums at once, united by the common name "type of Angels";
- fragrant pelargoniums;
- some others.
Very interesting are the varieties bred by breeders with heterogeneous leaf color - the so-called variegated varieties.
A separate type of pelargonium is very different in appearance and growth conditions - succulent pelargonium. This exotic plants having lignified trunks, and in some cases even with thorns.
Some gardeners practice a noteworthy way to get abundant flowering in geraniums: watering with iodine. This is done as follows: one drop of 5% iodine dissolves in a liter of water. alcohol tincture and for each plant (trying to pour not on the roots in the middle, but closer to the walls of the pot), 50 ml of such a mixture is poured.
It is also useful to remember that geranium loves fresh air and until late autumn pots with pelargonium can grow on balconies, loggias and even in the garden.
Answers to questions from readers
plant life span
perennial bush varieties Geraniums can grow in one place up to 20 years. But in the case of growing heat-loving pelargonium at home, it makes sense to completely change the flower to a completely renewed one every 5 years. After all, decorative properties deteriorate after 2-3 years of growth. Therefore, the targeted formation of the bush is very important.
Can this plant be kept at home?
Indoor geranium (pelargonium) remains one of the most common and beloved inhabitants of our homes. With ease of care, this flower has a very beautiful appearance and is distinguished by a huge variety of varieties.
Even people who are not fond of feng shui and horoscopes claim that geranium creates a special comfort in the house and, as it were, calms, heals the atmosphere of the apartment, and relieves stress.
Is this flower poisonous?
Some types of pelargonium are so rich essential oils that the word "fragrant" is even added to their name. This smell basically plays a very positive role in our lives. There is air disinfection, bringing into our atmosphere closed spaces healing aromas. Even the fact that domestic animals are unlikely to eat a strong-smelling plant will benefit both the plant and the animal.
The exception is allergy sufferers. But this is a special article. And even such people may develop an allergy, or vice versa, to facilitate breathing and the condition of the body. The question is very individual. The only thing - in general, geranium (pelargonium) is not toxic.
Why won't geraniums bloom?
When a plant decorates itself with flowers, it means that it is completely comfortable and has enough of everything: moisture, light, useful substances. Usually geraniums (pelargoniums) bloom profusely and for a long time. But if even such an undemanding flower upsets the lack of flowering, then it needs to be added. Feed (in moderation). You can try to put additional lighting.
Remember that in winter a flower may simply request a rest and not bloom for some time (usually until spring) for physiological reasons. But after a dormant period, it will bloom brightly and magnificently. But if you did not provide him with this rest and the winter was not cool and calm for him, then in the summer you can quite naturally lose this flowering.
There is another interesting point: when the container for the flower is taken too spacious, the plant will most likely increase the foliage mass. And only when the roots fill the pot in the normal way, the growth of greenery will stop or slow down and the time will come for flowering.
Why does geranium turn yellow and dry
There is no single answer to this question. First of all, it is necessary to distinguish between the natural process of dying off of old (mandatory lower) leaves and a more disturbing yellowing with loss of turgor of the upper leaves.
If the leaves began to turn yellow en masse, then reconsider the watering regimen. The plant is likely to dry out. But it also happens that brown spots are added to the yellowing. This is already a sign of waterlogging, and maybe even a disease and the plant needs treatment, or even more correctly, its transplantation and re-growing an already healthy flower.
Plants stretched upwards with thin bare stems make it clear that they do not have enough light. Add artificial lighting or move to more sunny windows.
Geranium care in winter.
Again, we will divide the topic for indoor pelargoniums and for those geranium bushes that grew in the garden in the summer, and now it's time to protect them from the coming cold weather.
- Dig up the geranium completely, gently shake off the roots from the ground and hang them, tying them in bunches with other dug specimens, providing high humidity (at least 80%) and coolness (from 2 to 8 degrees). Once every two weeks, it is recommended to additionally moisten the roots by dipping them in water. Such landless (dry) storage will allow the flower to hibernate and rest, gather strength for new seasons of growth and flowering, before which you should not forget to cut the roots and twigs by a third.
- Plants are dug up, the roots are significantly shortened and planted in prepared pots in a cool place. At the same time, they carefully monitor the moisture entering the plant. It is equally harmful to both pour and dry the flower. Lighting is greatly reduced. You can characterize the conditions of winter overexposure of geraniums as twilight.
For houseplant it is also necessary to change the care in the winter:
- move from heaters that dry the air to a cooler place;
- reduce watering;
- reduce or even stop feeding.
In winter, flower growers are faced with such a phenomenon as the acquisition of reddish-reddish color by pelargonium leaves.
Why do geranium leaves turn red?
The reason is that the plant freezes. Check if it is close to the cold glass of the window or if there is a draft directed directly at the plant. "Warming" the flower, you will get rid of this phenomenon. It will be useful to put a pot of geraniums in advance on a base that does not conduct heat well (wood, foam plastic) and move the leaves away from the icy touch of window panes.
