All more people strive to realize their innermost dream - to get out of the high-rise urban development in own house. Acquired suburban area quickly turns into a construction site. And, in accordance with the natural mentality of most Russian men, work on the construction of a new home is very often carried out on your own. And, many of the amateur craftsmen do not have much experience in this area at all, they learn literally on the go, they are looking for useful and reliable information in available sources, including on the pages Internet resources dedicated to construction. We hope that our portal will provide them with serious assistance in this matter.
So, after the walls of the house are raised on a reliable foundation, it is necessary, without delaying this, to proceed to the creation of a roof and roofing flooring. There can be many options here. And one of the most commonly used is a gable roof structure. It is not as complicated in calculations and installation as some others, that is, even a novice builder should cope with it. Therefore, the topic of this publication is the construction of the roof of a private house with your own hands using the example of a gable truss system With metal-tiled roofing.
It should immediately be noted that the article does not give a ready-made "recipe". The goal is to demonstrate the principles of calculating a gable roof and the sequence of its construction. And the master with the appropriate estimate should already bring the recommendations received to his own, specific construction conditions,
The basic design principle of a gable roof is probably clear from its name. The roof of such a roof forms two planes converging along the ridge line and resting on long walls houses (along the cornice lines). From the end sides, the roof is limited by vertical gable walls. As a rule, both along the line of cornices and along the pediment, the roofing is somewhat released outside, outside the building in plan, so that overhangs are formed that protect the walls from direct precipitation.
Most often, the slopes have a symmetrical shape. Sometimes they resort to asymmetry, when the slopes are located at different angles to the horizon and, accordingly, differ in their length. But these are isolated cases, and will not be considered in this publication.
The height of the roof in the ridge, that is, the steepness of the slopes, can be different - it all depends on the planned use of the attic, the architectural ideas of the owners, and the type of roofing used.
Gable roofs have proven their high reliability. And the relative simplicity of the design makes them so popular among private developers.
The external similarity of gable roofs does not at all mean the uniformity of the design of their truss systems. It is precisely in this matter that there can be significant differences, depending both on the size of the building and on its design features.
According to the principle of structure, the truss systems of gable roofs can be divided into two groups:
- If the rafters rest on the outer walls of the building and are interconnected in a ridge knot, then such a system is called a hanging system.
To give additional rigidity to such a design, the rafter legs of each pair are reinforced with horizontal puffs (contractions). Can also be applied vertical racks supported on floor beams, or diagonally mounted struts.
- In the case when the design of the house assumes the presence of a main wall inside the building, a layered truss system is often used. The name speaks for itself - the rafter legs "lean" on the racks, which, in turn, rest on a bed laid along upper end of the capital internal walls. And, this wall can be located both in the center and offset from it. and for large buildings, two can be used as supports interior wall. Several examples of layered systems are shown in the illustration below.
- However, a kind of "hybrid" of both systems is often used. The rafters in these cases, even without the presence of an internal partition, also receive support on the central post in the ridge knot, which, in turn, rests on powerful floor beams or on horizontal puffs between the rafter legs.
In any of the systems, especially in cases where the rafter legs are of considerable length, apply additional elements amplification. This is necessary to exclude the possibility of deflection of the beam or even its fracture under the action of loads. And the loads here will be considerable. First of all, it is static, due to the weight of the rafter system itself, lathing, roofing and its insulation, if it is provided for by the project. Plus, there are large variable loads, among which wind and snow come out on top. Therefore, they strive to provide for rafter legs required amount support points to prevent possible deformation.
Some of their reinforcement elements are shown in the design diagrams of the truss system:
The illustration above shows an example of a layered truss system:
1 - Mauerlat. Usually this is a bar rigidly fixed on the upper end. external walls building. It serves as a support and base for securing the lower part of the rafter legs.
2 - Lezhen. Bar attached to internal partition buildings.
3 - Rack (another name is the headstock). Vertical support going from the bed to the ridge run.
4 - Skate run. A beam or board that connects the central posts and serves as the basis for securing the upper ends of the rafter legs.
5 - Rafter legs.
6 - Struts. These are additional reinforcement elements, through which you can reduce the free span of the rafter leg, that is, create additional support points for it.
7 - Lathing, which must match the selected roofing.
In systems hanging type reinforcement is made by installing horizontal puffs (pos. 7), which rigidly connect the opposite rafter legs, and thereby reduce the bursting load acting on the walls of the building. There may be several such delays. For example, one is installed at the bottom, closer to the Mauerlat level or even almost flush with it. And the second is closer to the ridge knot (e is often also called a crossbar).
With a large length of rafters, it may also be necessary to use vertical racks (pos. 3) or diagonal struts (pos. 6), and often both of these elements in combination. They can be supported by floor beams (pos. 9), as shown in the illustration.
It should be correctly understood that the shown schemes are not a dogma at all. There are other designs of truss systems. For example, it is often used to fasten the lower part of the rafter legs not to the Mauerlat, but to the floor beams that are extended beyond the walls of the house. Thus, the necessary cornice overhang is immediately set.
In the roofs of large houses, more than complex schemes. For example, the rafters are connected by additional longitudinal runs, which, in turn, are supported by vertical posts or struts. But to undertake the creation of such complex systems, without having a well-established experience in this area - it is hardly reasonable. Therefore, we confine ourselves to the construction of fairly simple gable roofs.
Carrying out calculations of the parameters of a gable roof
The construction of the truss system and the arrangement of the roof on its basis should always begin with the necessary calculations. What are the tasks involved?
- First of all, it is necessary to deal with the ratio "ridge height - steepness of the roof slopes."
- After that, it will be possible to accurately calculate the length of the rafter legs, both “clean” and full, that is, taking into account the planned cornice overhangs.
- The length of the rafters and the estimated pitch from the installation will make it possible to determine the cross section of the material suitable for their manufacture, taking into account the expected roof loads. Or, on the contrary, based on the available material, choose the optimal step and place additional support points - by installing the reinforcement elements mentioned above.
The listed parameters will allow you to draw up a diagram and a drawing of the truss system as accurately as possible, correctly position all its elements. According to the existing scheme, it will be much easier to calculate how much and what material is required for installation.
- You will need to find out the total area of \u200b\u200bthe roof slopes. This is necessary for the purchase of roofing material, hydro - and vapor barrier membranes, insulation, if thermal insulation of the roof is planned. In addition, the area parameter is also important for determining the amount of material for arranging the lathing for the selected roofing.
To make it clearer during the presentation of the calculation procedure, the main quantities are schematically shown in the illustration below:
D- the width of the house (the size of its gable wall);
VC- the height of the roof in the ridge above the plane of the Mauerlat or floor beams, depending on what the lower ends of the rafter legs will be attached to;
A- the angle of steepness of the roof slopes;
WITH- working length of the rafter leg, from the ridge to the Mauerlat;
∆С- elongation of the rafter leg to form the planned cornice overhang;
W- installation step of the rafter legs.
Let's start with the above questions in order.
The ratio of the steepness of the slopes and the height of the roof ridge
These two quantities are closely related. AND Totheir calculation can be approached from different angles, taking certain criteria as initial ones.
- For example, the owners see their house with a high roof, something remotely reminiscent of the Gothic style of architecture. It is clear that with this approach, the height of the roof in the ridge increases sharply and, accordingly, the steepness of the slopes. True, it should not be forgotten that such roofs experience maximum wind loads, due to its pronounced "sail". But the snow on such slopes will practically not linger. So it is worth considering these two factors initially. Perhaps, for an area closed from the winds, but with a predominance of snowy winters, this option will generally be the most acceptable.
But do not forget that the longer the rafter legs, the more difficult the system itself will be in arranging, which will require a lot of reinforcing parts.
- Another consideration to make the roof higher very often becomes the desire to have a functional attic space, up to equipping it with a full-fledged living room.
For attic space, of course, a broken truss system is preferable. But if, nevertheless, a gable is planned, then a lot of space is eaten up by corner zones along the line connecting the rafters with a Mauerlat. It is necessary to increase the steepness of the slopes (see above).
True, and here there may be an acceptable solution. For example, the Mauerlat is not located at the level of the ceiling, as in the "classic" version, but on the side walls, which are deliberately raised above the ceiling to a certain height. Then, even with a large steepness of the slopes, and without much complication of the design of the system, magnon can achieve very spacious attic rooms.
By the way, it is this option that will be considered below, when the story goes about the installation of the truss system.
- It happens that the owners of the future home, on the contrary, decide on minimum angles roof steepness. This may be due to material saving structures, lack of usable attic space, local conditions such as very windy but not particularly snowy terrain.
True, with this approach, we must not forget that any roofing has certain lower limits for the steepness of the slopes. For example, if it is planned to lay piece tiles, then it is necessary to ensure a steepness angle of at least 20, and for some models even 30 degrees. So if the plans already have one or another roofing, its characteristics should be correlated with the height and steepness of the roof.
So, how is the calculation carried out. As a constant value - a constant, we have the width of the house along the gable wall ( D). Using the well-known trigonometric formula, it is easy to find the height ( VC), based on the planned steepness of the slopes (angle A).
Sun \u003d 0.5 × D × tg a
It is clear that half the width of the building is taken to calculate a symmetrical gable roof, that is 0.5 ×D.
One more nuance. When calculating according to this ratio, the height difference between the heights of the ridge point and the Mauerlat plane is taken as the height. That is, it does not always imply an excess over attic floor- this should be borne in mind.
The above formula is included in the proposed calculator.
Calculator of the ratio of the steepness of the slopes of a gable roof and the height of its ridge
Many owners strive to build a country cottage with their own hands and at some point they wonder how to make the roof of the house on their own, that is, with their own hands.
The main structural element of the roof is its frame, and as a rule, it is made of wood.
For these purposes, it is best to use hardwoods tree or pine.
In addition, even at the design stage of the building, you should decide on the type of roof.
The most common option is a gable roof shape, less often you can find a four-slope one, as in the photo below.
For a private house, brick or wooden, it is better to equip a gable roof with your own hands, which is shown in the photo below, since its construction and installation can be done by yourself without outside help.
Do-it-yourself roof installation should be done taking into account the extension to the house, if any.
In addition, it should be remembered that the manufacture and installation of the roof with your own hands is a rather laborious work that must be done correctly and in a certain sequence.
Do-it-yourself roof construction begins with its design, shape selection and selection required material. More on this in the video below.
Mauerlat arrangement
Before you make a roof for a private house (including a wooden one), you need to properly install and secure the Mauerlat.
Mauerlat is a certain basis that will take on part of the load from the roof structure.
Its installation is necessary when it is supposed to arrange not only a gable, but also hipped roof. It is on this basis that the construction of the entire roof will subsequently be carried out with your own hands.
Mauerlat device involves the use wooden beams, the cross section of which should be 15x15 centimeters.
The installation of these beams is carried out parallel to the future roof ridge, as shown in the photo.
The ability of the finished roof to resist loads will largely depend on the reliability of fastening the Mauerlat to the walls.
Its device should begin at the stage of building walls. To do this, between the bricks closer to the top of the masonry, it is necessary to lay a thick wire in increments of one meter.
This wire must be firmly fixed inside brickwork in its middle.
The hanging ends must be of sufficient length so that in the future it can be easily tied around the laid timber.
After the device and construction of the house with your own hands is completely completed, all visible parts of the wire for attaching the Mauerlat must be hidden under a layer of plaster.
When installing the Mauerlat with your own hands, you need to make a minimum deviation directly from the edge of the wall. It should be at least ten centimeters.
In order to further prevent rotting of the Mauerlat wooden beams, they should be insulated from the inside using a special material laid in several layers.
For these purposes, you can also use only. Mauerlat under a gable roof should be placed around the entire perimeter of the walls, while controlling not only its reliable fastening, but also evenness.
The construction of floor beams
After the Mauerlat is properly equipped, the floor beams are installed, which are one of the main elements of the roof of a private house.
The floor beams are installed in a certain sequence, as shown in the video below. First, the installation of the extreme beams is carried out.
It should be remembered that their removal will determine the future cornice, the recommended length of which is no more than fifty centimeters.
In order to choose the right timber for the construction of beams for the roof of a private house, a special calculation should be made.
It is necessary to control the places of their connection with the Mauerlat, and if necessary, clean it up a little or vice versa, place small pieces of plywood.
The pitch of the floor beams is selected taking into account the pre-calculated pitch of the rafters. The process of fastening the beams is shown in the photo.
After the installation of all long beams has been carried out with your own hands, it is necessary to correctly place the short floor beams. For them, the step can be taken with a value of one meter.
Carrying out the construction of floor beams, they do not forget about the cornice, as well as about the reliable fastening of the beams, in order to subsequently exclude sagging of the roof of the house.
The beams are fastened to the Mauerlat with nails. In addition, they can be fastened with special rafter corners or self-tapping screws.
After the installation of all beams is completely completed, it is necessary to lay ordinary floorboards on top of them, but do not fix them.
This is done for the convenience of subsequent work on the construction of the roof of the house.
Installing a beam under the skate
Any gable roof a private house involves the construction of a ridge. After the installation of floor beams is carried out, you should proceed to the construction of a beam under it.
To equip the structure, you will need boards measuring 50x150 millimeters, from which the racks will be assembled.
They should be set in the middle part of the future frame strictly according to the level, and then carefully unfastened with temporary struts.
They begin work by installing the most extreme racks, after which a cord is pulled between them, which will allow you to correctly install all the other racks.
After all is built roof structure, all intermediate racks can be completely dismantled.
This will make it possible to equip another living space on the top floor of the house directly under the roof.
When choosing the height of the ridge racks, one should take into account what shape of the roof is planned initially. Experts advise taking its height equal to the height of the first floor of the house.
After the extreme and intermediate racks are checked for evenness and carefully unfastened, the ridge beam itself is laid on top of them.
It is not necessary to carefully fasten it to the entire structure, it will be enough to screw in a couple of self-tapping screws.
Any gable roof involves the arrangement of a ridge beam, so this stage of work is mandatory when building this part of the house.
One of milestones during the construction of the roof of a private house is the installation of an extension of the rafters.
First you need to make a template, you can do this if you attach the board from the inside to the end of the ridge beam and to the floor beam in the place where the cornice will be arranged.
However, this is not always possible, and in some sections of the roof extension frame it will be necessary to mount rafters with different sizes.
Installation of the extension of the rafters in place should be carried out simultaneously from two roof slopes. This is done in order to minimize the side load on the ridge beam.
If the length of the slope of the roof under construction is greater than the length of the rafter board that is at hand, then it will have to be spliced from the inside of the structure.
It is better if the joint, which is made from the inside, is located at the bottom of the slope, while it must be reinforced with an additional stand. Fastening the rafters to the Mauerlat in the photo below.
Fastening the rafter board to the ridge beam is carried out with the help of several nails.
In turn, its fastening to the floor beam can be carried out both with the help of nails, and by fixing special mounting plates on self-tapping screws.
After all the rafters are mounted over the entire frame area, proceed to the installation of racks.
In the event that in the future it is planned to equip the attic under the frame as an extension, then these racks will become the frame of the walls.
In parallel with the racks, the crossbars of the roof of the house are also being equipped. In more detail, the arrangement of the rafters on the roof of the house is disclosed in the video below.
The device of the pediment and cornice
The pediment and cornice are parts of the structure that form the gable roof of a private house.
The pediment is an important element of the roof extension and its arrangement must be carried out in accordance with all the rules. Begin to mount the gable should be with the installation of additional racks.
In order to install the gable of the roof as evenly as possible, you should stretch the cord between the bottom of the extension of the rafters.
After the frame for the pediment is assembled, you should equip the opening for the window. The size and configuration of this window can be arbitrary.
After the frame for the gable is fully assembled, it must be carefully checked for horizontal and vertical evenness.
It is recommended to equip the pediment of the roof extension of the house as carefully as possible, since it is on this part of the house that they first of all pay attention.
After the pediment of the roof extension is fully assembled, its eaves should be properly equipped. The cornice of this building is located around the entire perimeter of the house and, as it were, covers the facade of the walls.
The cornice is hemmed with special boards, while the frontal board must be unfastened at the ends from the inside of the floor beams.
In its lower part, the cornice is hemmed with two belts so that it is convenient to fix the soffit when performing exterior decoration.
When the cornice and the pediment of the extension of the roof of the house are being equipped, holders for the drainage system should be installed on the rafters from the inside of the structure.
At the final stage, it is better to sew up the eaves from the inside with siding.
Roof lining and insulation
One of the final stages in the construction of the roof of the house is its crate, in addition, it must be insulated from the inside.
To begin with, on the rafters it is necessary to unfasten the layer waterproofing material, while its surface should subsequently be inside the roof.
After that, you can proceed to the device of the crate itself. Its installation should be carried out based on what roofing material is supposed to be laid as a roof covering.
As a rule, each roofing material is supplied with detailed instructions, which lists all the requirements for the crate.
At the final stage of work, a frontal overhang is made and the ebb of the upper frame of the house is equipped.
To do this, it is necessary to attach a special wind board to the protruding ends of the finished crate.
After that, the so-called fillies of the gable overhang are unfastened from the inside with the help of self-tapping screws at a distance of one meter from each other.
Two belts are attached to them, which will subsequently be sewn up with siding. After that, it will be necessary to assemble triangular fillies, which are mounted on the outriggers of the pediment.
Two belts are also attached to them. It remains only to sew the finished frame with the selected roofing material and build gutters.
If you perform work in accordance with the technology and in accordance with all the rules, then there should not be a question of how to equip the roof of the house without outside help.
In any case, the work of building a roof requires care and composure from its performers. Any mistake during the installation of the roof can lead to serious consequences in the future.
In this article I will try to describe in detail how a gable is being built. This form is practically the simplest, suitable for a private house and its construction, from the point of view of monetary costs, is more profitable compared to other more complex roof configurations.
- in the second case, the rafters lie on the floor beams of the floor below. A gable roof made according to this option will be described here.
Let's take a brick box at home as an example. Its dimensions are 8x8 meters, height 3 meters. Do-it-yourself construction of any roof begins with the installation of a maurlat (Fig. 1). Methods for attaching it to the walls were described in the article, which you can read.
Mauerlat install flush with inner surface walls. Outside, it must be bricked up so that it cannot be seen. At the same time, the upper surface of the Mauerlat should be 2-3 cm higher than the upper surface of the facing brick, so that the entire load from the roof is transferred only to the Mauerlat. No need to load .
Next, install the floor beams. We do this in the sequence indicated in Fig. 2. First of all, we put the beams indicated by the numbers 1,2,3,4. Their removal determines the width of the eaves. We usually take it from 40 to 50 cm at the request of the customer. As beams, we use a beam, the section of which is determined by making a simple calculation described in detail. In our case, it will be a beam of 100x200 mm.
After fixing the extreme floor beams, we stretch the cord along the upper plane and expose the rest of the beams, if necessary, pulling up the Mauerlat under them, or vice versa, laying thin plywood (you just often order a beam 200 mm high, and they bring it from 190 to 210 mm, this is on our sawmills equipment). We choose their step taking into account the step of future rafters. When using floorboards 50x150 mm as rafters, we take a step of 60-70 cm (it is better to take 60 cm, because roofing insulation has such a width).
Having installed all the long beams, we put the short ones (Fig. 2). Their step is enough to make about 1 meter. This scheme is slightly different from what we are used to seeing in similar pictures. We came to it after the pediment tide sagged on one of our first roofs, although the tides of the tide were securely fixed. In this scheme, the possibility of sagging is completely excluded.
We fasten all beams to the Mauerlat with 150 nails, you can also use metal rafter corners and self-tapping screws. In general, the use of various fasteners for rafter connections, makes it easier to work. This is especially convenient for an inexperienced person, you do not need to make complex cuts and notches. We have already talked about this in the article "".
After installing all the beams, we lay (without fixing) boards on them, you can floor, you can inches. They are needed just to walk on them calmly. In order not to clutter up the drawing, I did not show them on it. The next step is to install the ridge beam.
First of all, we set the racks from the board 50x150 mm according to the level or plumb and fasten them with the help of temporary struts. On fig. The 3 spacers are shown on only one post, again to keep the drawing clear. The step of the racks is not more than 3 meters. First we put the extreme ones, then, pulling the laces between them, we put the intermediate racks. After the construction of the entire truss truss, the intermediate racks can be removed and the living rooms can be easily made on the second floor.
The height of the racks is selected depending on what shape of the roof you want to get. I usually advise customers to take it equal to the height of the first floor along the facade (the distance from ground level to the Mauerlat). This proportion is also shown in the figures.
Having installed the racks, we put them on them and fix the ridge beam literally on a couple of screws. As it we use a board 50x200 mm (in principle, 50x150 mm is also possible).
Now we move on to the installation of rafters. First we need to make a template from a 25x150 board. To do this, we apply it to the end of the ridge beam and to the beam (Fig. 4) and draw two lines. Having sawed off a board on them, we get a rafter template.
Of course, it is very good when the foot of the house is laid out with high geometric accuracy and floor beams are also installed. Then we can cut all the rafters at once according to the template and install them calmly. But to be honest, this is quite difficult to achieve, and even more difficult when a new roof is being made on an old house.
In this case, we first make only the top notch at the rafter according to the template. Then we take the resulting workpiece, apply it to the desired beam and mark the bottom gash, as they say in place. All rafters are installed in this way (Fig. 5). Please note that having installed one rafter, we immediately put the opposite one in order to quickly remove the lateral load on the ridge beam (otherwise it will bend it).
When the length of the roof slope is large and the standard 6-meter board is not enough, there are two ways to go. The first (I think it is preferable) is to order longer boards at the sawmill. Of course it will cost more. For example, at the end of autumn 2012, we had 1 cube of 6-meter boards cost about 5,500 rubles, and 1 cube of boards 7.5 meters long cost 7,000. But installing rafters is easier and faster than using the second method.
According to the second method, you need to splice two boards. This can be done by sewing on them a piece of board of the same section with a length of 1.5 - 2 meters. See the figure for how this is done. The joint is best done at the bottom, and under it it is necessary to install an additional rack.
We attach the rafter to the ridge beam with two or three nails. For fastening to a floor beam, we Lately use metal mounting plates and self-tapping screws and add a couple of nails. Sometimes we use brackets. By the way, I have seen many times how people use staples, but they do it wrong. The bracket must work in tension. Below on the left photo - how not to do it, on the right - how to do it.
Strengthening roof truss, we begin to deal with gables. First, we put additional racks, which will be the gable frame (Fig. 7). The accuracy of the installation is controlled by a cord stretched along the bottom of the rafters. Then we do window hole(Fig. 8). You can make it any size and configuration you like. Please note that in the figure, the stand in the center of the window (supporting the ridge beam at the beginning) was simply cut. It no longer bears almost any load. Having finished with the frame, we sheathe the pediment with an inch (for example, 25x150 mm) (Fig. 9).
The next step is filing the cornice boards around the entire perimeter of the house. The frontal board (sewn to the ends of the floor beams) is made from a board 25x200 mm. We hem two belts from the board 25x100 from below to the cornices (Fig. 10). They are more than enough to secure outdoor decoration soffit.
Now, if we are going to mount the drainage system and use metal holders for the gutters, they need to be installed on the stops right now (under the waterproofing film). And frontal boards also at this stage it is desirable to sheathe siding. Then it will not be very convenient to do this. I didn't show it in the picture. In addition, we now use only plastic holders gutters that are attached directly to the frontal board. It is more convenient with them and you can put them after the roof is assembled.
Next, we proceed to the crate. First of all, with the help construction stapler we fix the first strip of waterproofing film on the rafters (Fig. 11). It is more convenient to work if scaffolding is already installed around the perimeter of the house. In any case, you will have to put them when you make a roof, drain, sheathe the cornices with siding.
Having fixed the film, we nail the slats of the counter-lattice (25x50 mm) to the rafters. The need to use a counter-lattice is described in detail here: . Do not forget to leave room for the overlap of the subsequent waterproofing strip.
Then we make a crate. Now I will not focus on the rules for its installation. This topic is for a separate article. In addition, instructions are attached to any roof covering, which describes in detail how to make a crate specifically for this material (the figures schematically show a crate for a metal tile). I will try to prepare a new article on this topic in the near future.
In this way we cover the entire roof (Fig. 12). After that, it remains only to make a gable overhang and a gable ebb. The sequence here is:
To the protruding ends of the lathing with self-tapping screws, we hem the wind board of the gable overhang (25x150 mm) from below (Fig. 13);
We insert and fix the filly of the gable overhang with self-tapping screws (board 25x150). The distance between them is about 1 meter (Fig. 14);
We sew two belts to the fillies from below (board 25x100). They are also enough to subsequently sheathe gable overhangs siding (Fig. 15);
From pieces of the board 50x150 of the required length, we prepare triangular fillies for the gable ebb according to the figure (Fig. 16). Then, fixing them on the takeaways, we also nail two belts (25x100) to them.
This completes our roof. What happened in the end and what happens after the implementation roofing works and sheathing of the gable and cornices with siding is approximately shown in Figures 17 and 18.
During the construction of private houses, the roof is most often made gable. There are reasons for this. First, it is reliable. Copes well with wind and snow loads. The second - it is compatible with any roofing. The third is relatively inexpensive. The fourth is a simple design that is difficult to spoil. Fifth - it looks attractive. All this, and more gable roof it is built with its own hands without the presence of special knowledge, determines its popularity.
Do-it-yourself assembled gable roof ready for installation of roofing
Step-by-step installation of a gable roof
As you saw above, there are a lot of truss systems. Accordingly, when assembling each has its own characteristics, but in general the order is the same. It is necessary to say about the general step: pre-drying and processing of wood. This step is required if you bought fresh lumber, not dried.
The use of raw wood in the construction of the roof natural humidity will lead to problems: the beams will bend, they will dry out, the geometry will change. All this will lead to the emergence of stress points and at the slightest sign of overload (a lot of snow, strong wind or rain), negative processes will begin. Their elimination is a complex and costly undertaking. Therefore, either buy dry wood (no more than 20%, ideally chamber drying 8-12%), or buy material a couple of months in advance, put it in ventilated piles. After that, treat with the necessary impregnations (from fungal attack and to reduce flammability) and only after that use it in the installation of the truss system.
Timber must be dried in ventilated stacks. To do this, they are laid in short pieces of boards. They are placed a meter from the edges and further through the meter. Spacers must be installed under the bottom
We will talk about the main stages of assembly, about how to make a gable roof with your own hands in this section.
Mauerlat
The assembly of the gable roof truss system begins with the installation of the Mauerlat. It must be set strictly horizontally, therefore, before starting installation, the horizontalness of the wall to which it is attached is carefully checked, if necessary, it is leveled cement mortar. You can continue work after the solution gains 50% strength.
Depending on the system, this is a beam with a section of 150 * 150 mm or a board with dimensions of 50 * 150 mm. It is attached to the top row of masonry walls. If the house is wooden, its role is played by the upper crown. If the walls are made of light building blocks - foam concrete or aerated concrete and others - their rigidity is not enough to redistribute the load. In this case, a reinforced concrete belt is made over the last row of masonry, into which embedded fasteners are embedded - wire or studs. A bar or board is then mounted on them.
There are several ways to connect walls and Mauerlat:
- A smooth rolled wire is fixed in the masonry (in the reinforced concrete belt) large diameter(two ends sticking up). Holes are then made in the board in the necessary places, into which the wire is threaded. She then twists and bends.
- Studs with a diameter of at least 12 mm are immured in the wall. Under them, holes are made in the Mauerlat, a beam / board is placed) and tightened with nuts with wide washers.
- Aligning the beam or board on the outer or inner edge walls, take a drill with a diameter of 12 mm, make holes for anchor bolts. They (the same diameter of 12 mm) are hammered to the very hat, then tightened with a key.
The distance between the studs (wire) should not be more than 120 cm. Cut-off waterproofing must be laid on the wall (belt) under the Mauerlat. It can be rolled roofing felt or waterproofing in two layers, it can be smeared with bituminous mastic.
Rafter installation
There are more than a dozen types of gable roof truss systems. First of all, you need to choose what yours will look like. Further, in order to make it easier to work, a template is made from thin boards for all cuts, cuts and other similar details. To do this, you may need to assemble the first form on the roof, and then make templates for the finished one.
The assembly order depends on the type of truss system. If the rafters are layered, they are installed gradually, assembling from the elements directly on the roof. In this case, it is convenient if the beams of the ceiling are laid and, if possible, the draft flooring of the attic or attic.
In systems with hanging rafters, a farm is assembled on the ground - a ready-made triangle of puffs and rafter legs with all the required struts, racks. The required number of farms is assembled at once. Then they are lifted to the roof, placed vertically there and attached to the Mauerlat.
On the one hand, this is convenient - it is easier to work on the ground, with a high assembly speed, the accuracy is high: one farm is not much different from the other, which simplifies the procedure. But it can be difficult to raise finished trusses, especially for large buildings. To make this easier, two inclined boards are installed, which at one end rest against the ground, and the other sticks out a little above the wall. Farms are brought closer to this “lift”, one by one they are installed below, ropes are tied and pulled along the boards to the roof. In the absence of a winch or crane, this is the most acceptable method.
The assembly of rafters requires certain knowledge: how and in what order to mount them, how to mark and make cuts. See the video for the assembly of one of the schemes with a headstock.
Assembly order of the truss system
Everything, the do-it-yourself gable roof is assembled and ready for installation of roofing material.
The process of installing the rafters itself raises enough questions, but there are many ways and it is impossible to tell about them all. See one of them in the video. The system is large and went up to the roof in parts, and there it was already assembled into a single structure. For big houses it's comfortable.
Features of the installation of the truss system of a wooden house
difference wooden houses consists in the fact that the frame shrinks, and this leads to a change in the geometry of the truss system. If the elements are fixed rigidly, the roof may fall apart. Therefore, the mounts are made floating. There are special sliding fasteners, which in this case attach the rafters to the upper crown and to the girders, if any (see photo).
In order for the rafter to move freely during shrinkage, its long part is fixed strictly parallel to its edge, and the support is placed strictly perpendicular. If necessary, a platform is cut out under it. Mark the mount so that the hook is in the lowest position or near it. Attached to special self-tapping screws that come with the kit (regular ones do not fit). If the installation is made on a log, so that rafter leg did not slip on it, a semicircular hole is cut out in the lower part, on which it will rest.
Such fasteners are sold on any construction market, it is called "slippery". How to attach the slippery to the beam, see the video.
Video on assembling and installing a gable roof truss system
Building a gable roof with your own hands is not easy: there are a lot of subtleties and nuances, there are different ways fixings, extensions. Describing them in words is a thankless task. This is the case when it is better to see. Below is a selection of videos that you might find useful.
Video report on how a gable roof is made
The story of the owner of the house about the stages of construction. There are interesting technical points which might be helpful.
Two types of rafter connection: rigid and sliding
Video about the two most problematic types of connections.
How to determine the angle of the rafters
Full video report on the assembly of the truss system
This movie is just under an hour long, but the entire process is shown from start to finish with plenty of detail. The roof is placed on, but when installed on buildings of a different type (except for wooden houses), there is no difference.
