Installation of plastic panels on the ceiling. DIY ceiling made of plastic panels. Prices for ceiling panels

Despite the variety of types of suspended ceilings, such as: plasterboard, tension or armstrong, ceilings made of plastic panels have not lost their popularity to this day, thanks to their low cost and ease of installation.

Plastic panels are mainly used for installing plastic ceilings in bathrooms, kitchens, balconies or loggias, gas stations, but also for wall panels and lining of communication systems, sewer and water pipes leaving an inspection hatch for monitoring taps and water meters. Using panels for large ceilings is not very advisable, since such a ceiling does not look aesthetically pleasing due to the limited panel length of 3 meters; there are also 6 meter ones, but it is not always possible to bring them into the room. Because of this, it is necessary to add a connecting H-profile, which does not completely match the color of the panels and will stand out strongly against the general background.

Do-it-yourself installation of the panels begins with assembling the frame to which they will be attached; the frame can be made of wood or metal profiles, which are used in the installation of drywall. Better to use metal profiles, since they are more even, unlike boards or timber.

Materials for assembling the frame:

UD profile;
CD profile;
pendants;
dowel with a diameter of 6 mm;
metal self-tapping screws with a 4.2x13 mm “flea” press washer.

Minimum set of tools for installation on a concrete ceiling:

perforator;
screwdriver;
metal scissors;
metal hacksaw or jigsaw;
water level;
Victory drill bit 6 mm.

You may also need an upholstery cord and a 2.5-3 mm drill, a plasterboard crown, a miter box, and silicone.

Step-by-step instructions for installing plastic panels

If there is non-hidden wiring on the ceiling, it must be placed in corrugated pipes to prevent a possible fire.

Before installing the profiles, you need to set marks to which the ceiling will be lowered, taking into account the height of the UD profile of 45 mm and the height of the starting profile of 8-10 mm, this is important especially for balconies, since the final height of the overhang suspended ceiling will block access to the opening of balcony windows.

Having established the marks, the next step is to move them using a ruler from bottom to top by 8-10 mm, depending on the height of the starting “elka” profile.

After applying the markings, the UD profiles are installed. The profile must be leaned against the wall so that its lower part is at the mark, then using a hammer drill equipped Pobedit drill, drill the profile together with the wall to the length of the dowel with a margin of 10 mm. After drilling the first hole, you can hammer in the dowel; this is convenient if you work alone.

The next step is to install the hangers; in order to determine their location, you need to put marks on the UD profile, since later the CD profile is attached to the hangers, the marks are made based on its location. The CD profile is mounted perpendicular to the length of the plastic panels. Having determined the direction of the plastic panels, we make a mark on the UD profile perpendicularly every 50 cm.

Next, we insert the CD profiles, cut to the required length, into the UD profile and screw the suspensions to the ceiling with dowels, then connect the suspension to the CD profile with self-tapping screws; if the profile span is large, then we check it with a level or pull the cord so that the frame is level. At the end we connect UD and CD with self-tapping screws.

If used wooden frame, it is advisable to treat it with an antifungal agent.

When the frame is ready, we attach the starting “elku” profile or the “fillet” ceiling plinth or F-profile.

Professionals advise first attaching 3 guide profiles, and gluing the last one after joining all the panels. You can mount 4 “elks” at once, but then, due to poor clamping, a small gap may form between the last and previous panels. The advantage of this method is quick installation without the use of liquid nails.

Depending on your choice, whether it is a starting profile or a fillet, the sequence of further work depends.

If a starting profile is selected, then the first 3 are fastened with self-tapping screws, and the last one with liquid nails, otherwise all 4 with self-tapping screws.

If it is a fillet, then all 4 or more can be secured with liquid nails, and the last one is attached at the end, taking into account that its “tongue” is cut off, see the video for more details.

The same can be applied to the F-profile.

I would like to note that no matter what version of the guide you choose, it can be attached in any way convenient for you, with self-tapping screws or liquid nails, staples or wood nails.

Laying the first row

We cut the PVC panel 5 mm smaller than required to facilitate installation.

We insert one edge of the panel into the PVC guide. To bring in the second edge, you need to slightly bend the panel down.

We screw the panel to the profile with a flea screw. On a wooden frame, you can use a regular drywall screw.

Insert the second panel and press down until the lock clicks into place.

Installation of the last plastic panel on the ceiling

There are several ways to secure the last panel:

1. The easiest way is to cut the panel 5-7 mm smaller in width, first insert it into the guide, and then push it into reverse side until the lock clicks into place.

2. Glue the last panel to the profiles using liquid nails together with the L or F profile, or in the case of a fillet, first glue the panel, and on it the fillet with the “tongue” cut off. For more details about the last option, see the video.

PVC lamps

We make holes for recessed lamps or ventilation using a plasterboard crown mounted on a screwdriver or drill.

How to make corners?

It is not necessary to cut the corners on the L or F profile; they are not very noticeable. But for fillets you need a miter box and strong nerves if you are a beginner. After finishing the installation, we cover the cracks with silicone, watch the video.

In order not to resort to buying a miter box, you can purchase corners for PVC fillets, they are shown in the photo below.

All more people prefer to improve the interior with a suspended ceiling. It is better to do gypsum plasterboard ceilings in rooms with a low percentage of humidity. Moisture-resistant material is used to cover the suspended ceiling in the bathroom and kitchen. For such purposes, plastic is best suited, since a suspended ceiling made of PVC panels is characterized by a number of positive properties compared to other finishing options.

Pros of PVC panels

Plastic is a common material used directly in furnishings. This trend is not surprising, since plastic has the following positive properties:

PVC panels are inexpensive compared to other building materials.
Relatively simple installation.
High moisture resistance. Plastic does not absorb moisture.
The material retains its properties when using cleaning agents.
Plastic endures chemical substances and without losing its properties.
Covering a suspended ceiling with PVC panels allows you to hide the details of the ceiling, improving the appearance of the room.
Good sound insulation.
Easy installation, allowing you to do the work yourself.
Extensive color palette makes it possible to choose the best option for a suspended ceiling.

Flaws

Like anyone construction material, along with its advantages, plastic also has negative qualities. The main disadvantages are:

Specific smell. After installing the suspended ceiling, the smell of plastic persists for some time.
There is a possibility of deformation due to sudden temperature changes.
Impact may damage the plastic.
Plastic is not classified as natural materials, therefore this kind of material is not recommended for mounting on the ceiling in residential premises.

Important! Plastic is no longer as prestigious as when it first appeared on the market, since there are many better materials available.

Types of material

According to their characteristics, plastic comes in three types.

White. This type includes unpainted material.
Color.
Textured. A special feature of this type is that a special texture is applied to the surface, giving the material a natural effect. This type of plastic is much more expensive. The ceiling, finished with textured plastic, looks presentable and expensive.

Tools for installation work

To install the ceiling, you need to prepare materials and tools.

You will need:

Profile or beams for the future frame.
Skirting board. Its immediate purpose is to fasten the panels.
Dowels, self-tapping screws.
Screwdriver.
Hacksaw.
Corners.

Preparatory work

Before installation, you need to complete preparatory work. Without them, the following situations are possible:

If a new builder does not check the surface, unnecessary materials may be purchased.
If ceiling covering uneven and there has been no preparation, it is unlikely that the ceiling will be installed correctly.

Important! Gotta follow the rules preparatory work to avoid additional expenses and to save time and effort.

Frame installation

Stages of installation work:

Install the frame (wooden or metal).
The PVC skirting board should be attached to the sheathing.
Install the panels into the baseboard and secure them.

Important! If a collapsible plinth is chosen, then the decorative part of the baguette should be attached last, after attaching the panel.

"Skeleton" device

Covering the floor is impossible without fastening the frame. The best option is metal carcass. For the design, it is best to take the ud and cd profile. These kinds of profiles help to quickly create a frame and level it.

To install the “skeleton”, metal is used, since wood is not as durable compared to metal. Wood becomes deformed due to temperature changes. When choosing a material for the frame, the selection rules are followed, since the durability of the structure depends on the selected material.

Before installing the suspended frame on the ceiling, markings are made. A level is used for these purposes. Marks are placed on the wall under the ceiling along which the guide profile is installed.

It must be secured with dowels or self-tapping screws, depending on the wall material. (Attachment pitch – 400 mm).

The next stage is the installation of stiffeners. To carry out such manipulations, the following steps are followed:

Stiffening ribs are placed in the guide profile. Subsequently, panels will be attached to them. Create the frame perpendicular to the direction of installation of the panels.

Important! You need to determine in advance the direction of laying the panels. To make the seams less visible, follow the installation rules (you should start laying the panel along the wall with the window).

The supporting profile is cut based on the dimensions of the room. The installation step of such a profile is 500-700 mm.
It is impossible to flawlessly sheathe the ceiling with PVC panels if the frame is not given rigidity.
After the frame is assembled, it is fixed. If a metal profile is used, then the first element is installed at a distance of 350 mm from the wall. This rule must be followed strictly, since this important nuance allows you to give the frame stability.

Panel installation

Correct device design depends on the direct installation of the first sheet of plastic panel. Before directly installing the panel on the frame suspended structure carefully check all parameters to avoid errors. The panel should be secured with staples or self-tapping screws. All subsequent panels must be fastened parallel to the first.

Fastening PVC panels with screws

Installation of plastic skirting boards, pros and cons

Installation is a scrupulous job plastic skirting board around the entire circumference of the room. Sometimes there is a detachable baseboard. Its peculiarity is that the decorative edging and the part into which the panel is inserted are supplied separately. After installation of the plinth is completed, these parts are connected with a latch. If you follow the installation rules, installing the baseboard will not take much time and effort.

Important! If you have no experience in installing skirting boards, then you should choose detachable models.

Plastic ceiling plinth

For finishing and upgrading the walls and ceilings of bathrooms and kitchens, it was mainly used tile, paint, whitewash, washable wallpaper. Or the simultaneous use of two or three of the above coatings was proposed.

But for about 15 years, plastic plates made of polyvinyl chloride have been used for these purposes, which have become very popular. Plastic plates have many positive qualities:

Relatively easy installation that even a non-professional can do alone. The main thing is to be able to handle conventional and power tools well.
Fast installation. Ceiling cladding can be completed in a few hours.
Color solution. Nowadays you can find slabs of classic and completely unimaginable colors on sale. This will help you find what you were aiming for.
External finishing of slabs. The arsenal of plastic coatings is varied. There are wood colors different breeds, mirror coating. The panels are matte, shiny, glossy.
Relatively inexpensive when compared with conventional types of coating (for example, tiles).
Easy to process. Cut with a knife or scissors.
Helps reliably disguise wiring, pipes or surface irregularities.

Characteristics of PVC plates

Width: 25-50 cm.
Thickness: 5-10 mm.
Length: 2.7-3.0 m or 6 m.

Polyvinyl chloride as a covering material:

strong enough - it is difficult to tear it apart with your hands;
very plastic; not afraid of water;
does not darken in the sun;
does not conduct sound;
environmentally friendly;
has some thermal insulation due to air channels inside;
some species can withstand temperatures of 70-80 degrees;
easy to clean;
has no smell.

Newfangled LED lamps can be directly mounted on PVC panels.

Negative qualities include the fragility and flammability of the material.

If it is bent too much, it will break, and if there is an accidental impact, a dent may appear on it.

Selecting panels and calculating the amount of material

For a room with a height of 2.70 m and above, you can choose panels of any color, but it is better to choose pastel, neutral colors. For a low room you need to take light colors or mirror plates. They give a visual effect of increasing volume.

Advice: Do not confuse ceiling and wall panels.

This is a mistake made by many individuals who carry out repairs themselves. It's better to ask the seller. IN as a last resort, it is useful to know that ceiling tiles weigh less than wall tiles.

Calculation of PVC plates, crossbars and plinths

It is easy to calculate the number of panels. It is enough to divide the area of the entire ceiling of the room being repaired (the product of the length of the room by its width) by the area of one PVC slab. Then add another 15-20% necessary for sealing various kinds ruptures.

For example, let's say you are renovating a bathroom. It has a riser installed, and under the ceiling there is a horizontal pipe. For this option, which is not uncommon in old buildings, a special calculation is required and 15-20% of the excess will come in handy.

Advice: Place the panels parallel front door.

Moreover, if you start installation from the far wall, then each subsequent slab will hide the seam, which will allow you to get the effect of an almost seamless coating.

To calculate the length of the crossbars (metal profiles or wooden slats), it is necessary to draw a plan diagram of the ceiling, reduced proportionally.

The main metal profiles (or slats) should be positioned perpendicular to the entrance door. A gap of 50-60 cm should be maintained between them. Based on the drawing, we determine the number of crossbars, taking into account 4 pieces of rigid profiles fixed around the perimeter of the room.

Ceiling plinth is much easier to calculate. We measure the perimeter with a tape measure and buy required amount, taking into account the length of one strip of plinth - 3 m.

If the ceiling needs to be lowered, then the number of U-shaped mounting plates must also be calculated.

For example:

The room measures 2.6 x 2.4 m and the door is on the long side.

You have chosen slabs 3.0x0.3 m.

To calculate this option, you don’t have to divide the area of the slabs and ceiling, because the length of the slab covers the length of the room. You just need to calculate how many PVC strips will fit in the width of the room.

2.4 / 0.3 = 8 stripes.

A room drawing might look like this:

Option 1 – strengthening the profiles directly on the ceiling of the room;

Option 2 – the crossbars are secured to U-shaped fasteners (depicted as squares).

From the first picture it can be seen that there are only 8 profiles (including 4 along the perimeter).

To strengthen them on the ceiling and walls you will need 16 dowels (two for each). Self-tapping screws are calculated based on the number of strips and profiles. PVC panels are secured to each crossbar with two self-tapping screws.

We got 8 stripes, 4 crossbars. The side ones can be ignored. The panels are simply inserted into a special groove near the wall. We calculate:

8x4x2 = 64 screws + 36 for reserve (for good measure) = 100 pieces.

In the second picture, 2 dowels are needed for each U-shaped fastening and for the side profiles on the walls

For fastenings: 8x2 = 16.

On the sides: 4x2 = 8.

Total - 24 dowels.

To strengthen the strips, it is necessary, as in the first option, 64 self-tapping screws. But besides this, you need 16 more screws to secure the profiles to the U-shaped plates - two for each.

Panels and types of plastic profiles

The strips themselves are hollow and divided into sections. This is why they weigh so little. Vertical stiffening ribs add strength to PVC sheets.

But the panels can only be fixed on a plane. When you reach the wall, if no measures are taken, a gap will remain. To eliminate this problem, there are PVC profiles. They are different types, but the following options for plastic profiles are most quoted and used:

Starting. Attached to walls (perimeter) to seal the ends of the coating.
F-profile. Seals ends at protruding corners. For example, in some combined bathrooms, the toilet is separated from the bathtub by a wall. This profile will close the corners when moving from one part of such a bathroom to another.
N – profile. Serves for joining two panels (extension).
Plastic outer corner. It is used to eliminate cracks, both on internal and external corners.
Ceiling plinth. Used for decoration and for sealing ends, just like the starter.
Universal PVC corner. To eliminate cracks in corners. It's just glued on.

Preparation for installation and marking

First you need to clean the surface of the old ceiling from plaster and chips. After all, crumbling elements, such as whitewash or putty, can damage the new surface or add pressure to the slabs. It is necessary to carefully prime the old ceiling.

When lowering the ceiling, you need to take into account the standard sizes of the lighting fixtures used, the presence of various types of communications (pipes), projections (beams), hidden wiring or unevenness. Only after taking these values into account is the lowest point of the ceiling determined. From there they begin marking the planes and frame.

We attach a ruler to the found point, lower it to the required distance and put a mark.
We draw a working line on the walls (along the perimeter, starting from the mark), indicating the level of the frame plastic surface. This operation is performed with twine (cord) painted with colored chalk. You can use a homemade water level or
purchased - laser.

Next, we mark the locations of the support guides located on the walls. They should be mounted on walls perpendicular to the front door. Then, when installing PVC strips, the seams will not be noticeable.
Then we draw lines (retreating by 40-60 cm) for the remaining profiles or, if the ceiling level is to be significantly lowered, for the U-shaped elements.

After this, we move on to constructing the frame and strengthening the panels.

We install a suspended ceiling made of plastic panels

We start by securing the support guides. We install one profile along the drawn line and drill the wall through it in two or three places, preparing holes for dowels.

To connect lamps (if there are several of them), it is desirable that the profiles are 1-1.5 cm away from the ceiling; in extreme cases, it is necessary to cut holes in them.

Having secured all four support guides to the walls, we proceed to installation auxiliary profiles. If the ceiling is to be lowered, then U-shaped ceiling fasteners must be installed on its surface.

They are installed on one or two dowels or on anchors with wedges (depending on the design) every 50-80 cm and bent slightly from the ceiling. You cannot bend them completely - they will interfere with the installation of profiles.

We insert the additional profile at a certain angle with one end into the main guide. Then we insert the other end into the profile opposite, align it along the drawn line or along the U-shaped plates and screw it with self-tapping screws, first to the wall guides, and then to the fasteners on the ceiling.

Jumpers can either not be installed at all or mounted only in places where heavy objects are secured (chandeliers, etc.).

Having thus strengthened all the metal profiles, they carry out the laying of wires (lighting and power cables). For reliable insulation and fire safety they are pulled through a rubber or PVC hose. At the attachment points of future lighting elements, hinges (15 cm) are lowered.

Installation of slabs

Advice: Before installation work Remove the film from the PVC elements, if any, otherwise you will have to tear it off along with the finished ceiling.

Let's get down to the main part of the work. The strips must first be cut to an amount equal to the length of the room minus 5-10 mm. This is necessary to ensure easy and quick installation. The installation process itself goes like this:

Either a U-shaped profile or a ceiling plinth with the same groove is screwed to the main guides with self-tapping screws. You can attach a universal PVC corner or a starter profile to the side walls.
A strip of polyvinyl chloride is inserted into a U-shaped PVC element. Many people cut off the latch, thinking that it will not fit tightly into the PVC profile. But this is a misconception.
Strengthen the other side of the first PVC plate with self-tapping screws with an enlarged head or using special homemade fasteners cut from tin. These fasteners hold the strip with their tongue, which has a clearly larger area than the head of any screw and will not interfere with the next strip.

They are fixed as follows:

insert the tongue into the groove of the PVC strip;
press the element together with the panel against the guide;
secure.

Advice: When pressing, it makes sense to pre-drill the wings with a thin (2-2.5 mm) drill homemade element and guide. Then the screw will screw in easily.

If you used wooden slats for the sheathing, then the wings of a homemade fastener are screwed to both sides. If you have plasterboard profiles, then you can either screw the fasteners to the sidewalls or simply bend the protruding parts of the wings and press them tightly against the plane of the sides of the guide with pliers.

The mating part of the second strip is inserted (along its length) into the open groove of the first strip. Moreover, first insert the corners of the second strip, so that one of them fits into the lock of the first plate, and the second into the side PVC profile. Next, with light pressure, insert the entire strip into the groove, so that its second end fits into the PVC element (starter or corner) located on the opposite side wall.

You must act carefully, otherwise you risk breaking off part of the lock clamped by screws or fasteners.

If the strips are closed unevenly, then you should insert a thin block, a wooden ruler or a piece of the mating part of the same PVC panel into the locking groove of the last strip. Move this part along the groove by gently tapping with a hammer, or wooden block Gently drive the strip in until it stops.

If according to the plan it is planned to strengthen a lamp (spot) on the strip, then the hole for it can be cut in any way cutting tool immediately after installation. You just need to cut carefully so as not to overdo it. Next, the wires are brought out into the hole and the lamps are connected, although this can be done later.

You can also perform this operation on the floor before installation. First, attach the panel to the ceiling, mark the holes, lower it to the floor, cut it, and then secure it. But this takes up extra time.

Installation of the last PVC panel

This is worth talking about specifically. In the manner described above, all longitudinal elements except the last one are strengthened.

Some inexperienced craftsmen suggest gluing it with liquid nails to make installation easier. But “the game is not worth the candle.” To do this, you need to trim the last fragment of the ceiling very evenly. But due to the design of the panel, this is very difficult to do.

When cutting using a ruler or slat, even with light pressure, the plastic bends and the knife wiggles to the sides. It is very difficult to obtain a high-quality cut. Therefore, you need to cut from the P-profile side. But in this case there is a noticeable seam between the panels. After all, nearby there are incoherent lock and mate parts.

Therefore, it is better to perform installation in the usual way. Let's talk about him specifically. This process is confusing to many. After all, you need to simultaneously insert the strip into four grooves:

lock before last panel;
gap in the U-shaped profile;
two grooves on the side walls.

Oddly enough, but there are no difficulties. First you need to prepare the PVC element for installation. It is necessary to set the width of the future ceiling fragment. This can be done with a ruler, which is inserted into the U-shaped profile on the wall perpendicular to it and the divisions are counted to the penultimate strip. This will be the width of the last fragment.

Some people will reasonably ask that we did not take into account the width of the groove (5 mm) of the penultimate PVC element, and the last fragment of our ceiling will dangle. But this is precisely the “trick”, especially since you have done this process one or several times at home when you inserted glass into bookshelf or to the sideboard.

The depth of the U-shaped profile on the wall is 1 cm, and the depth of the lock is 5 mm. Therefore, if you insert the last fragment into the profile and then pull it out, snapping it into the lock, then the entire structure will be assembled properly.

A second question arises. What about the side grooves? The answer is simple. This is why we cut the strips. It is necessary to slightly bend the last strip in an arc and insert it into one of the side grooves until it stops. Then gradually push it along its entire length into the U-profile.

Attach construction tape to the strip in two places. By pulling it you can pull out the panel and lock it in the lock. Just try to pull it parallel to the surface of the ceiling, otherwise the tape will simply break off.

Before installing the last fragment, wrap two thin strips of dense material over the edge. After sliding the panel into the P-element, pull the ribbons. The friction force and tight connection will not allow them to jump out immediately, and the strip will move forward. When it snaps into place, use a screwdriver or knife to slightly bend the edge of the U-profile and the tape will come out. As a last resort, just cut it off.

At the end of the work, install skirting boards or other decorative and hiding elements. Clean the ceiling from adhering chips, dirt, and fingerprints. Connect and insert the lamps into the holes if you did not do this during installation. This completes the installation of the ceiling made of PVC panels.

If just a few decades ago the finishing of ceilings in most cases was limited to whitewashing or wallpapering, today the base can be sheathed quite unusual materials, for example, plastic. We'll figure out how to install plastic panels on the ceiling below.

Advantages and disadvantages of ceilings made of plastic panels

Finishing the ceiling surface with polyvinyl chloride has many advantages:

Masking unevenness. Not required for installation perfect alignment base coat. The panels will hide all defects.
Convenient installation of communications. Pipes, wires and ventilation ducts fit freely in the ceiling space.
Various lighting options. You can install it in a ceiling made of plastic panels with your own hands original lamps or backlight.
Easy to install. It is much easier to equip a PVC structure than suspended or suspended ceilings.
Light weight. The lightness of the material allows it to be mounted on a longitudinal frame, which significantly reduces the cost of profiles.
Possibility of additional insulation. During the installation process, hydro-, sound- and heat-insulating material can be placed in the inter-ceiling space.
Reuse. If necessary, the panels can be dismantled and reinstalled.
Moisture resistance. The material is absolutely not afraid of water, and therefore it does not warp, does not become moldy, and does not deform when exposed to moisture. Because of this, it is chosen for the installation of ceilings made of plastic panels in the bathroom, kitchen, balcony and loggia.
Easy to care for. Plastic is resistant to most detergents without abrasives, so it can be easily cleaned from almost any contaminant.
Relative cheapness. PVC panels are relatively low in cost and will cost significantly less than plasterboard or tensioned analogues.
Durability. At correct operation plastic will last about 15 years.

As for the disadvantages of this method of finishing ceilings, here are:

Simple view. The ceiling made of plastic panels looks quite budget-friendly.
Limited types of structures. Using PVC, you can only make a single-level structure without bends.
Reducing the height of the room. A suspended ceiling made of plastic will make the room lower by at least the width of the profile.
Interpanel seams. Even with correct installation seamless plastic lining the panel joints will still be visible.

After weighing the pros and cons of this finishing method, you can make a final decision whether it is worth installing plastic ceilings indoors.

Types of plastic ceiling panels

Today this material is so widespread in the construction industry that it is used for cladding different surfaces.

According to the type of purpose the panels are:

Wall. They are denser and heavier.
Ceiling. They are characterized by relatively low weight and lower strength characteristics.

According to the type of connection, the following varieties are distinguished:

Seamless. The joints of such panels are visible only from a close distance.
Embossed. The surface looks as if it is lined with clapboard.
With chamfer (rust). They are similar to seamless models, but have a decorative hole at the ends.

Panels on the market are available in three standard sizes:

Lining - 300*10/300*12.5 cm;
Seamless with a length of 260-300 cm and a width of 15-50 cm;
Squares (rectangles) - 30*30 - 100*100 cm;
Leafy with a width of 80-203 cm, a length of 150-405 cm.

Based on the type of coating, PVC panels are divided into:

Glossy. Varnish treatment makes the surface mirror-like.
Matte. No additional processing. A budget option.
Colored. In cheaper models, the design is applied by transferring from thermal film, in expensive ones - by direct printing.

To install a ceiling made of plastic panels, ceiling, seamless, and sheet models are most often used.

It’s very easy to get confused among the variety of PVC panels available on the market, so you need to know the rules for choosing a quality material:

The panel must be geometric correct form, with a clearly applied pattern and a smooth surface.
No stiffening ribs should be visible from the outside. Please note that the strength of the structure directly depends on their number.
When choosing panels, take two pieces and fit them together. High-quality products should fit tightly to each other, fit easily and not form gaps at the joints.
Try pressing or bending the material. Even despite the lightness and small thickness, ceiling panels should not be too fragile.
Smell the material. A quality product does not emit a strong odor.

You should not skimp on materials, because high-quality panels will last much longer and will fully pay for themselves over time. Be sure to check product certification and make purchases from reliable suppliers so as not to become the owner of a low-quality product.

To do right choice Among the widest range of textures and colors, consider the following nuances:

You can visually increase the height of the room by installing a light ceiling. A dark coating, on the contrary, will reduce the height.
The glossy surface visually deepens the ceiling, making it more distant and the room voluminous.
Do not overload the interior by using more than three colors in the ceiling decoration.
Imitation of wood or stone on plastic looks primitive (especially if the seams are visible), so it is better to avoid textured designs.

At this stage, think about the type of lamps used and the method of masking the extreme ends of the panels.

DIY ceiling installation from plastic panels

The structure consists of a frame fixed to base surface and covered with PVC. To do the work yourself, you need to prepare the ceiling, make markings, draw up a drawing, calculate the quantity required material, build a frame and fix the panels on it. At each stage there are many things to consider technological nuances and it is important to approach each process responsibly in order to ultimately be satisfied with the work.

Preparatory work before installing a ceiling made of plastic panels

Significant preparation or leveling of the base ceiling is not required for this type of finishing, but some work is still worth doing:

We clear the room of large-sized furniture, remove curtains, cornices, paintings and a chandelier, insulating the ends of the wires.
Lay it on the floor plastic film and close the doorway with it.
We remove the ceiling trim and dismantle the old wiring if necessary.
We putty large cracks and holes.
We prime the surface with an antifungal compound.

If a suspended installation method is planned (using metal hangers), then the preparation of the base surface can be considered complete. If installation is planned using the hemming method (fixing the profiles directly to the ceiling), then it is additionally necessary to level the surface with gypsum putty.

Calculation of material for ceilings made of plastic panels

During the work we will need panels and components directly. Materials must be purchased in reserve so that in case of unforeseen circumstances the installation process is not delayed. In order to correctly determine the exact number of fasteners, components and panels, we first measure the length of all four walls. Please note that opposite walls also need to be measured separately as they may not be level.

We carry out calculations taking into account the following rules:

Divide the ceiling area by the area of one panel, add 15-20% to the result and round up. This figure will be an indicator of the required number of PVC panels.
When calculating the number of ceiling profiles and hangers, keep in mind that it is mounted in increments of 0.5-0.6 meters.
The length of the required starting profile is equal to the perimeter of the room plus 10 cm.
The number of dowels will be needed based on 1 piece/0.5 meter of profile, and self-tapping screws - 1 piece/0.5 meter of panel length.
To calculate the amount of plastic profile, divide the perimeter of the room by three (standard length of products) and round up.

In addition, you may need an H-profile to connect the ends of the panels, plastic corners for external and internal joining.

In residential premises, the lathing can also be made from wood, but for installing a ceiling made of plastic panels in the kitchen, balcony or bathroom, it is better to use galvanized metal ones.

Marking the ceiling before installing plastic panels

To make the work easier, prepare a tape measure, paint cord and hydraulic level in advance.

We carry out the markings in this order:

We measure the height of all corners and the center of the room.
In the lowest corner from the base ceiling we measure the height of the inter-ceiling space.
Using a level, we make marks in the same plane at all corners, and screw temporary screws into them.
We stretch the paint cord between the two temporary fasteners and mark the line for the location of the plastic covering. We repeat the procedure for all walls.
On opposite walls near the ceiling we make marks in increments of 0.5 meters.
We stretch the paint cord between the marked points and beat off the fastening lines of the supporting profiles.
We mark the places where the hangers are attached.

If a hemming technique is proposed for fastening the panels, then markings are not made on the wall, and the base ceiling is pre-leveled.

How to make a ceiling frame from plastic panels

When installing the frame for suspended ceiling mounting, we use metal hangers. Before starting work, you must make sure that there are no hidden wiring in the places where the holes are drilled. To do this, you need to invite an electrician or use special detectors. Otherwise, the power supply may be damaged and you may even be injured.

We carry out the work according to the following instructions:

We attach the guide profile according to the marking level on the wall. It must be fixed on all walls except the one where the last part will be installed. This is necessary for ease of joining and fitting.
At the marked places we attach the hangers to the dowels and bend their ends.
We insert the ceiling profile into the guide and fix it to the hangers with self-tapping screws.
We align each element along a stretched nylon thread.

The frame for the false ceiling is attached without hangers to the pre-leveled base surface as follows:

We attach the supporting profile along the marked lines on the ceiling. During the process, it is necessary to ensure that the parts fit as tightly as possible to the wall. However, if the coating was previously leveled, then no cracks should form.
We attach the L-shaped profile to the walls around the perimeter of the room at the level of the ceiling profiles fixed to the ceiling.
We attach the corners at the joints.

At this stage, it is necessary to lay all communications and draw conclusions for the lamps. The wiring must be placed in a heat-resistant corrugated sleeve.

Please note that with hemming mounting, the inter-ceiling space is not enough to install spotlights.

How to cover a ceiling with plastic panels

Plastic panels must be fastened across the location of the profiles; installation is carried out as follows:

Cut off the part if necessary required length 0.5 cm less than the width of the room. To do this, you can use a jigsaw, a fine-toothed hacksaw, or a sharp knife.
Sanding the edges sandpaper and remove the film from the panel.
We insert one side into the starting profile, bend it slightly and insert the second edge.
We move the element close to the wall. As a result, the first panel will be fixed in three profiles.
We attach the remaining side with wide-headed screws to the sheathing in the groove.
We insert the second part in the same way into opposite guides and move it tightly to the previous panel.
We cover the entire ceiling using this method. The end element will need to be cut to the appropriate width before installation.
We install decorative skirting boards on the starting profile around the perimeter of the room. In the place where the last panel is attached, it can be glued with liquid nails.
Using a drill bit with a crown, we cut holes for mounting the lamps.

This ceiling finishing can be done at any stage of repair, both before and after finishing the walls and floor, since this work is not “dirty”.

To make the design aesthetically attractive, strong and durable, we recommend taking into account the following recommendations during the process:

Plastic panels are fixed to a longitudinal frame, but if you plan to hang a chandelier, then at the place where it is installed you will need to reinforce the lathing with jumpers and pre-fix an anchor hook to the base ceiling. The lintels must be cut from the ceiling profile and attached with crab connectors.
To ensure beautiful joining of the skirting boards at the corners, they must be cut at an angle of 45 degrees. For convenience, you can use a miter box.
If small gaps remain after installing the last panel, they can be filled with acrylic-based sealant.
On uneven walls it is better to mount a foam baseboard, because plastic products will form gaps.
The highest quality products made from polyvinyl chloride are produced Italian manufacturers. The warranty period for such panels is almost doubled, and the cost is 20-25% higher.
Plastic is not flammable, but is influenced by high temperatures(80-90 degrees) can melt, so it is better not to install high-power lighting. The best option- LED lightening.
It is strictly forbidden to glue panels to the ceiling with liquid nails. Firstly, this is not a reliable enough fixation, and secondly, between the base surface and plastic coated there must be a ventilation gap.

These simple tips will help you avoid mistakes during installation. Read the instructions carefully and make an action plan before starting work so you don’t forget anything.

How to make a ceiling from plastic panels - watch the video:

Plastic ceilings are the optimal solution for bathrooms, kitchens and other rooms in which practicality and functionality of finishing come first. Our recommendations will help you understand the question of how to make a ceiling from plastic panels. By following the instructions, you will complete all the work yourself, from preparing the base surface to installing decorative skirting boards.

Until recently, there were not many ways to decorate the ceiling. Whitewash, paint with water-based emulsion. The brave souls still dared to wallpaper the ceiling - and that was it. And today there are suspended ceilings, suspended ceilings, mirrored ceilings, stained glass ceilings, etc.

Covering the ceiling with plastic panels is the simplest, most economical and quick way finishing.

Today, one of the most popular, especially among those who like to do everything around the house with their own hands, is a plastic ceiling. This popularity is due to the fact that making a plastic ceiling is quite simple, especially for those who have had to deal with the installation of suspended ceilings, and it will cost only a little more than a plasterboard ceiling.

Familiar Stranger

Strictly speaking, a plastic ceiling is a suspended ceiling.

It is attached to the main ceiling using special hangers on a frame made of metal profiles or wooden slats. Only the material for the panels, instead of drywall, is polyvinyl chloride, one of the safest and healthiest types of plastic. Suffice it to say that in addition to wall and ceiling panels, food containers are made from PVC.

You can easily make such a ceiling with your own hands, giving it an attractive appearance. It won't be visible panel seams, besides, it will serve you much longer than its plasterboard counterpart, and it requires very minimal personal care - removing dust from the plastic from time to time. This is easy to do with a damp cloth, since plastic is absolutely not afraid of water.

When choosing panels, it is important not to confuse and not buy wall panels instead of ceiling ones. Although they are made from the same material, they differ significantly. Wall panels are much heavier compared to ceiling panels, which makes a huge difference.

If you mount such panels on the ceiling, you will get a significant load on its frame. And this is fraught: one fine day the frame may simply not hold up, and the ceiling will collapse. And if you install ceiling panels on a wall, they will deform over time, since their mechanical strength is much lower.

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Preparing the base ceiling

Making such a plastic ceiling with your own hands is no more difficult than a regular suspended ceiling made of plasterboard. Installation of any suspended ceiling, incl. and plastic, you should start by preparing the base ceiling. Its surface must be thoroughly cleaned of exfoliated lime or plaster and treated with an antifungal solution.

Then you need to take care of the electrical wiring running along the ceiling. Indeed, in most cases, lamps and chandeliers will be mounted on the ceiling. Before installing the ceiling, you need to secure the wires and at least lead them to the switch. The wires must be reliably insulated. Joking with electricity is dangerous, so if you do not have sufficient experience in this matter, it is better to seek help from a specialist.

To install a plastic ceiling yourself, you will need the following tools:

hammer drill or electric drill with a pobedit drill bit;
hacksaw for metal;
construction knife;
roulette;
square;
break paint cord;
water level;
screwdriver

Don't forget to purchase the following materials:

antifungal solution;
pendants;
dowels (you must take the same diameter as the drill you will use to drill the holes);
plastic panels;
ceiling profiles;
self-tapping screws

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Sheathing device

Frame for plastic ceiling can be made from either wooden slats or a metal guide profile. The second option is still preferable, since the metal is less susceptible to changing its dimensions under the influence of temperature and humidity.

You need to decide in advance how far you will lower the panels. At the same time, you need to take into account the depth of your lamps - mainly from 5 to 10 cm. Having decided on the height, you need to install and fix the profile guides strictly horizontally. It’s better not to rush here and double-check everything several times. Otherwise, if you rush and install the profile incorrectly, you will be left with no other choice but to make the ceiling slanted, which will immediately catch your eye.

From the base ceiling at the corners of one of the walls, the required distance is measured down. It is important that the marked marks are at the same level, so be sure to check their location using a water level. Then these two marks are connected into one horizontal line using a cord.

Taking the measured horizontal line as a guide, you need to draw the same lines along the entire perimeter of the room, checking them with a level. This will be the horizontal plane so that .

The next step in installation will be the installation of metal guide profiles along the marked border. The profiles are attached directly to the wall by drilling holes in it with a puncher or drill, using plastic dowels and galvanized screws for fastening.

In order not to disturb the horizontal position when attaching profiles, the end of the unattached profile is placed at the end of the attached one, then its other end is laid strictly according to the markings, and the profile along its entire length is attached to the wall.

Having finished installing the profile on the walls, you need to install the profile on the ceiling itself. To do this, straight hangers need to be fixed on the ceiling along the direction of installation of the ceiling profile in increments of 50-60 cm. The hangers need to be fixed strictly along a straight line, beating it off using a painting cord. Ceiling profiles are attached to these suspensions, and the ends of the guide profiles fixed to the walls are laid. With such a suspended ceiling design, there is no danger that one day it will fall on your head.