How to assemble a carpentry workbench with your own hands. Making a homemade locksmith workbench Do-it-yourself plywood workbench

The general principle of the development of material processing technology from prehistoric times to the present day is how to make details on inaccurate equipment for more accuracy. And it all started with a workbench, its prototypes are found during excavations of Stone Age settlements. It is quite possible to build a workbench, and a full-fledged one, with your own hands, and this will not only save a significant amount, but also simplify, facilitate work and improve its result.

Three mistakes

Amateurs, sometimes, judging by their designs, very experienced, knowledgeable and diligent, sometimes make workbenches for themselves, on which, figuratively speaking, a tank can be smashed with a sledgehammer. They take a lot of time and labor, and hardly less money than a good branded amateur workbench. Repetition in the design for own use of industrial prototypes designed for intensive work in 3 shifts and a static load of more than a ton, with a service life of 20 years or more, is one of the typical mistakes in the development of workbenches of our own design.

The second is the neglect of vibrations. Not a clearly felt “play” or “recoil”, but a small tremor that significantly complicates the work and reduces its quality. Vibrations are especially strong in workbenches on a metal bed.

Third - repeat carpentry or locksmith workbenches; perhaps with some tweaks to your liking. Meanwhile, there are many designs of workbenches for home / amateur work of a different nature. There are workbenches that are more or less specialized or, on the contrary, universal, temporary from improvised materials, etc.

In this article we will figure out how to make a workbench taking into account these errors, firstly, simpler and cheaper according to the range of needs and / or hobbies of the craftsman. Second, how to make a workbench general purpose or universal for special conditions use - in a cramped garage, for carpentry at a construction site from improvised trash, home for fine precision work, for children.

About universal workbenches

Among branded products, sometimes very expensive, you can find "universal" workbenches in the form of a carpenter's workbench with a lid without a tray, a complete bench vise on a wooden cushion, and a clamp for installing them, like the one in the photo:

“Universal” prefabricated workbench

This is the wrong decision, not only because the wooden countertop deteriorates from carpentry. The main thing that is bad here is the technological fluids used in metal processing - oil, kerosene, etc. The wood impregnated with them becomes much more combustible. Self-ignition is also possible; remember, it is strictly forbidden to accumulate oiled rags in production. The approach to designing the countertop (board, cover) of a universal workbench needs a different one based on what kind of work it is mainly used for - thin or rough, see below.

work bench

In the West, amateur / home workbenches with a type-setting worktop framed by a side are widespread. Drawings of such a "working bench" are given in fig. Under the locksmith, the lid is covered with a sheet of steel 1.5-2 mm thick and a vice is placed on the pillow.

The workbench dampens vibrations well; You can make it from pine or spruce. But the design is complicated, it is inconvenient to work with lengthy materials and furniture on such a workbench. Therefore, we will first look at how to make the most common carpenter's workbench, then garage and locksmith. Next, we will try to combine them into universal workbench and let's see what we can come up with on this basis for special needs.

The composition of the workbench

The workbench of "our" type (conditionally, since it is impossible to establish its origin exactly) consists of:

Underwork (in carpentry workbenches), or bed (in metalwork), ensuring the stability of the entire unit and the ergonomics of the workplace.
Covers, box-shaped or in the form of a tray, giving the work area the necessary rigidity.
Shelves; possibly with a tray, nests, and stops on which work operations are performed.
The apron on which the tool is hung. The apron is not a mandatory accessory of the workbench, it can hang on the wall or be replaced by a pedestal, rack, etc.

Note: workbench height approx. 900 mm. The length and width are selected according to the place of installation and the type of work within 1200-2500 and 350-1000 mm, respectively.

A lid with a shelf is most often made at the same time, one-piece, and is simply called a lid, benchtop or table top. To dampen vibrations, the shelf is always made on the basis (bed, substrate) of wood. In a locksmith's workbench, the bed is covered with a steel sheet from 2 mm thick and can be made of coniferous wood. Its overall strength is sufficient, and the steel tire protects the tree from local damage and ingress of technical fluids. In a carpenter's workbench, a bed made of high-quality (without knots, strands, and other defects) solid small-layer wood (oak, beech, hornbeam, elm, walnut) serves at the same time as a shelf; -layer construction, see below.

The traditional construction of the bench, on the contrary, is collapsible from the same wood as the joiner's shelf. This comes from the master covens of the past, who transported their equipment from customer to customer on a cart. It is from the bed / underbench that you should start developing your workbench no worse, but simpler than traditional ones.

Bed: metal or wood?

Stationary wooden workbench has advantages over that on a steel frame not only in lower cost and labor intensity. Wood, firstly, is not plastic. Workbench on wooden base can be broken, but if the wood is used seasoned and impregnated, it will never sag. Secondly, the tree perfectly dampens vibrations. The foundations of your buildings are not reinforced vibration-absorbing ones, like workshops at a factory, are they? And the overall strength and stability of the frame home workbench coniferous commercial wood of ordinary quality will quite provide.

The design of the wooden frame of the workbench made of boards 120x40 is shown on the left in fig. Permissible static load - 150 kgf; dynamic vertically down for 1 s - 600 kgf. Corner posts (legs) are assembled on self-tapping screws 6x70 in a zigzag (snake) with an indent from the edge of 30 mm and a step of 100-120 mm. Double-sided fastening; snakes on both sides of the package are mirrored. Intermediate support beams are fastened with steel corners on self-tapping screws; edge - with pairs of self-tapping screws at the spikes of the racks and, outside, with corners.

If a beam of 150x50 or (180…200)x60 is available, the design can be simplified, as shown in the center in fig. The bearing capacity will increase to 200/750 kgf. And from a bar 150x150, 150x75 and (180 ... 200) x60, you can build a frame that can carry 450 kgf in statics and 1200 in dynamics, on the right in Fig.

Note: any of these beds is suitable for both carpentry and locksmith workbenches. A box-shaped cover is placed on it under the carpentry (see below), and under the locksmith a tray from a 60x60x4 corner with welded 4 mm strips above the intermediate beams. A wooden pillow is placed in the tray and covered with steel, also see below.

If there is no welding

Solid wood workbench, no need for welding work for its manufacture, you can do according to the scheme on the next. rice. The “chip” here is in the tabletop, glued from a 75x50 bar and fastened with ties. If the beam is oak, then permissible load- 400/1300 kgf. Corner posts - timber 150x150; the rest is timber 150x75.

Metal

It happens the other way around: metal is more accessible than wood, and there is welding. Then the workbench table for a load of 100/300 kgf can be assembled according to the drawing on the left in fig. Materials - corner 35x35x3 and 20x20x2. Drawers are galvanized. The disadvantage is that it is impossible to make an opening at the bottom for the legs, the structure will lose its ability to carry a dynamic load.

Under a load of 200/600, a more convenient metal workbench is suitable according to the scheme at the top right of a professional pipe 50x50 (corner posts), 30x30 (other vertical parts) and a corner 30x30x3. The plank cushion of both workbenches is laid only across (bottom right) from tongue-and-groove boards (120 ... 150) x40.

Shelf - steel 2 mm. The shelf is attached to the pillow with 4x (30 ... 35) self-tapping screws, a pair from each edge of each board, and along the extreme boards - with a step of (60 ... 70) mm. Only in this design, the workbench will show the specified load-bearing capacity.

These workbenches are already universal: they turn the lid under the carpentry wooden side up or adjust as described below. The locksmith's vise is mounted on a wooden cushion, but is not fastened with a clamp. A collet anchor under the M10-M14 bolt is driven into the vice cushion from below, and a through hole is drilled under it in the cover. A washer from 60x2 is placed under the bolt head. This solution is convenient because it is possible to use inexpensive non-rotating vise.

For carpentry

The lid of the carpentry workbench, in contrast to the metalwork, is tightly attached to the workbench and is box-shaped, for general rigidity. The best option fastenings for a non-separable workbench - steel corners and self-tapping screws. Podverstache can also be a steel bed from those described above.

How a traditional carpentry workbench is arranged is shown in pos. And rice; accessories to it in pos. B. The workbench (in this case, this is a separate device) is used to work with a long length. The emphasis in its groove is made from a wedged trimming of the board, see below. It is advisable to drill a longitudinal row of holes in the board and fasten it into the sockets with sunken cone-head bolts. The traditional construction of a carpentry underbench is shown in pos. G, but - see above.

The cover of the carpentry workbench can be made cheaper by making a 2-layer, pos. Q. Then high-quality hardwood boards will only be needed for a shelf. They lay it down, laying the boards with “peas” of annual layers alternately up and down, in order to avoid warping. The flooring of the shelf is first rallied with PVA glue or carpentry, tightly squeezing with a clamp or wrapping it with a cord; put on a pillow on the same glue. The skirt of the lid is assembled separately with glue and through spikes (insert at pos. B) and is attached to the pillow-shelf package with self-tapping screws.

Vice for carpentry

All-wood carpentry vices, front and chair, are now almost completely replaced by a vice with a metal screw clamp, pos. D; their device is shown in pos. E. Some remarks are needed here.

First, you need to put 2-3 steel washers under the head of the clamping screw, otherwise it will quickly eat through the pillow (4x4x1 cm piece of wood). Second - if the nut is not custom-made and not purchased shaped, then get at least for a while a set of taps for the thread used. In this case, do not try to use too thick a screw for evenness and smoothness of the clamp; M12-M16 is enough.

The nut of a home-made clamping pair is welded onto a base with a diameter of 60 mm or more, square, from 70x70 mm. It is not necessary to sink it into the clamp pad, so it is less likely that the nut will be torn off when clamping. But the thread will ugly lead away from welding, you can’t drive it away with a bolt. The thread of the welded nut will need to be tapped according to the full scheme, as when cutting: the first tap - the second - the third (if included in the kit).

Note: the nut welded on the base must be allowed to rest for at least 2 hours before the thread passes, so that the residual deformations “subside”.

Vice and carpentry for a locksmith

The vise on the locksmith's workbench is installed in the corner (see the inset in the figure), so that as much as possible of the dynamic loads during metal processing falls vertically on the corner post. Location cross beams and intermediate uprights It is advisable to make a workbench with a stationary vise a little asymmetrical, placing them at smaller intervals towards the corner with a vise. The installation of the vice is also carried out starting from the corner:

A collet anchor is driven into the wooden corner post under the mounting bolt, and a high nut or threaded sleeve is welded into the metal post (attachment point 1 at the bottom left in the figure);
If the fastener is welded, thread with taps, as in a homemade carpenter's vice nut, see above;
Put a vice temporarily on 1 bolt and mark holes for fixing points 2, 3 and 4 in place;
The vise is removed and drilled through holes 2, 3 and 4;
Put a vise on the bolts 1, 2 and 3;
For mounting on bolt 4, put under the cover (tabletop) a strut U from wooden beam from 60x60 or professional pipes from 40x40. It is not necessary to fix the jib, but it should rest from under the bottom against the upper frame (strap) of the bed, but not against the tabletop!
Attach the vise finally to the bolt 4.

Note: stationary power tools are also fixed in the same way, for example. emery.

Under the carpentry

A locksmith's workbench can also be adapted for carpentry work if you drill 2-4 pairs of holes in the tabletop for fixing the carpentry stop (on the right and in the center in the figure). In this case, round bosses are screwed to the bottom surface of the stop with self-tapping screws; plugs fit well plastic bottles, they withstand tight landings many times.

Garage workbench

A workbench in the garage cannot be made optimal in terms of ergonomics of the width of the workplace - the dimensions of a standard box 4x7 m with a car standing in it do not allow. For a long time already, through trial and error, the width of the garage workbench was determined at 510 mm: it is quite convenient to turn between it and the hood, and you can more or less work. A narrow workbench under a heavy load (for example, a motor taken out for bulkhead) is unstable, so it is made attached to the wall. Often - angular, this increases stability, but any wall workbench"Calls back" stronger than a workbench-table of the same design

The scheme of the device of one section of the garage workbench is given in fig. In this design, an ingenious method of additional damping of vibrations is used: cells of the frames of the cover and the lower shelf of the edge farthest from the corner different sizes. The accuracy of the installation of the crossbars is +/- 1 cm. For the same purpose, the cover and the lower shelf are made of L Chipboard thickness 32 mm and covered with linoleum instead of steel. For garage work, its durability is sufficient; replaced without difficulty.

Fastening to the walls - self-tapping screws from 8 mm or bolts from M8 with a pitch of 250-350 mm. Deepening into a stone wall 70-80 mm; in wooden 120-130 mm. Propylene dowels are placed under the screws in the stone wall; for bolts - collet anchors.

More for the garage

Another version of the garage workbench is already on the wall, and on the wall, on the left in fig. It can only be mounted on stone walls. Bench board folding 2-layer; each layer of plywood 10-12mm. Opening under the machine with a stepped inner edge. In this case, a “milling cutter” means a mini-drilling machine with a movable rotary table and a workpiece clamp. The design is convenient in that the chips fall immediately onto the floor.

If your car is something like a Daewoo or Chery with a 3-cylinder engine, and the garage is very small, then you can put a folding mini workbench with a lifting table top in it, on the right in the figure; he will fit in the house for fine workmanship(electronics, precision mechanics). The tabletop is suspended on a piano hinge, the legs are on card hinges. For folding, the legs are tucked under the tabletop (it would be useful to tie them with a leg), and the tabletop is lowered.

Note: for a cramped garage with an ordinary city car, a folding workbench-box may be optimal, see the video below.

Video: folding workbench box

Home station wagon

At home, they are engaged in smaller, but painstaking technical creativity: soldering, modeling, watchmaking, artistic sawing plywood, etc. For fine fine work, a universal workbench is suitable, the drawings of which and its accessories are given in fig. The resistance of the work surface and its vibration absorption in this case are not as important as evenness, smoothness and some adhesion (“stickiness” of parts), so the table top is covered with linoleum. Locksmith vices for this workbench need small, with screw clamping.

More about plywood

In fact, it is undesirable to work with metal “roughly” on plywood, because. she calls back well. If the pillow board locksmith workbench is still made of plywood, then to its bottom you need to glue a frame (frame) on the PVA, also made of plywood, see fig. Then it is desirable to cover the upper (working side) first with unlined linoleum, and then lay steel on it.

To the rising shift

Another case where making a workbench out of plywood is justified is a student's workbench for a child. Pedagogical considerations play a role here: let him learn to feel the material and not to beat for nothing, but to work carefully. For the same purpose, the masters of the past deliberately gave students a bad instrument.

Workbenches in the country

When country house or other lung wooden structure still under construction, there is no time for bench wisdom, you need at least something on which you can perform simple carpentry work. For such a case, you can quickly put together a carpentry workbench for giving from improvised materials, on the left in fig. The design is remarkable in that it clearly and fully embodies the principle: we do good things with bad equipment.

For subsequent work on the arrangement of the dacha, a mini-workbench is useful, on the right in fig. At minimum flow material and extremely simple design, it is stable enough for ordinary carpentry work in all respects, tk. the middle of the workbench is supported by a pair of struts. If you put them on bolts, the workbench will turn out to be collapsible and stand in the pantry from weekend to weekend. For disassembly, after releasing the struts, the spacer is removed with them, and the legs are tucked under the board. Finally, for a summer residence, inhabited permanently or all summer, with a master owner, by the way, you will have a more complex, but fully functional folding workbench, see the video below.

A good workbench in the garage allows you to make different kinds work on metal and wood in a short period of time. This is where various tools and small parts. in plain language, it is a special table on which you can make turning and locksmith products.

In addition to the countertop, there may be multi-layer structures of shelves and hanging containers for storing nails, screws and nuts.

Making a universal workbench is quite simple. The main thing in this matter is to prepare a project and detailed drawings of the future product. In the process of creation, it is necessary to observe the order of each action.

Self-manufacturing such a structure will save a decent amount. Besides, individual project helps to make a design based on the parameters of your premises.

Workbench Varieties

There are several types of workbench. Each of them has some characteristics. In turn, they are divided into:

Locksmith. It is intended for metal work. The tabletop of such a product is made of high-strength metal alloy. This is necessary for security. Sparks may be present during iron work.

In addition, the use of lubricants can leave marks on wooden surface. iron base It does not require special care.

Joiner's. Its surface is made of solid wood. A carpenter's workbench is used for woodworking. These products do not have high strength and versatility, unlike metalwork.

The universal table has a metal and wooden tabletop in its design. The drawing of the workbench shows the arrangement of the carpentry work area.

What is included in the design of the workbench?

If the product is made independently, then it is important to think over every little thing. Additional shelves and capacious hanging containers will help to rationally use this product. The standard model contains many drawers for storing large tools.

Homemade table can have both metal and wooden system storage. An additional metal shield allows small items to be stored here. hanging tool. Now hacksaws and hammers will be located in one place.

How to make a workbench with your own hands?

We bring to your attention detailed instructions how to make a workbench. Manufacturing carpenter's table takes place in several stages. First of all, you need to prepare all the tools and materials.

For this you will need:

hacksaw;
screwdriver or a set of screwdrivers of different diameters;
joiner's square;
level;
bolts;
nuts;
self-tapping screws;
detailed drawing of the product;
wrench.

From the materials you need to prepare:

bars for support. The size of each element should be 110 x 110 mm. During the selection process, it is necessary to give Special attention the condition of the wood. There should not be cracks and knots;
plywood sheets 30 mm thick;
frame boards.

When all the necessary items are prepared, you can proceed to the workflow. It includes the following steps:

The initial action will be the construction of the lower frame, which will house the tools and locksmith machine. To do this, the boards are sawn off to right level. Then they are connected to each other using self-tapping screws. The end result should be a rectangular shape.

A spacer bar is installed in the middle. In the future, it will reduce the resistance finished product during the workflow you will need a small wooden board.

The support legs of the table are fixed with bolts. To do this, through holes are made in the plane of the frame. For reliability, it is recommended to make from 6 to 8 legs around the entire perimeter.

To give rigidity to the product, it is necessary to make a lower shelf. At the bottom of each leg, 25 cm are marked. Next, long wooden planks are attached here. In the future, a chipboard panel will be fixed on their surface. She will act as the foundation.

When the main part of the frame is completed, proceed to install the top countertop. Here you will need a hacksaw. It removes the redundant parts of the board.

Hardboard will help protect the surface of a wooden tabletop. This is a durable material that is designed for the work area.

You can increase the storage system with the help of an additional metal shield, which is attached to the back of the carpentry table. IN support boards make through holes. After that, the metal base is fixed with bolts. In the photo of the workbench with your own hands, the sequence of each action is captured.

DIY workbenches photo

It's no secret that well-equipped workplace- the key to the successful implementation of locksmith, electromechanical or installation work. The main subject in the garage or workshop, around which everything is arranged work zone, is a workbench. This desktop must have the necessary functionality, be durable and reliable. Buying a finished product in a distribution network can result in a tidy sum, so it's better to make it yourself. This will make it possible not only to save money, but also to get a garage table in strict accordance with the requests for functionality and placement.

Workbench with your own hands. How to do?

Below we will tell you how to make a wooden or metal workbench with your own hands. The presented designs do not require the use of any scarce parts or the use of expensive equipment, and during the installation process, you can get by with minimal carpentry and locksmith skills.

Making a workbench with your own hands (from wood)

Making a carpentry workbench with your own hands has a lot of advantages, which are that you can pre-arrange the locations of the vise and other devices, consider the number and location of drawers, etc.

Necessary tools and materials

For self-manufacturing workbench you need to prepare the following tools:

electric jigsaw or a hacksaw;
electric drill and a set of drills for wood and metal;
joiner's square;
roulette;
bubble level;
set of wrenches.
When stocking up on materials, be sure to pay attention that the wooden parts do not have cracks and knots. To get started, you will need:
bars for support legs 100x100 mm;
two plywood sheets with a thickness of at least 20 mm (OSB can be used). In this case, one sheet will go to the table top, and the other to the bottom shelf.
boards 50x150 mm, from which the frame will be mounted;
bolts (it is best to use furniture ones, with a square part that prevents them from rotating in wooden parts);
washers and nuts;
self-tapping screws.

To facilitate assembly and avoid mistakes when cutting material, it is better to make drawings of a workbench and indicate the dimensions of each part on it.

DIY workbench drawings

Workbench with your own hands. Step-by-step instruction

First of all, you need to make upper frame underframe. To do this, in accordance with the drawing, boards of the desired length are sawn off.

Using self-tapping screws, long and short parts are fastened in such a way as to obtain a rectangular frame. After that, measure the distance to its middle along the long side, where the spacer bar is installed. In its capacity, the same board 50x150 mm is used, which is attached to the frame from both ends with self-tapping screws.

Workbench made of wood with your own hands. Photo

Support legs a workbench is made from 6 identical bars. For their fastening to the upper frame, long bolts with nuts and washers are used. To mount the support, the bar is placed in the corner of the frame and two through holes are drilled through the leg and side board. Then the connections are tightened using bolts with nuts.

To achieve the necessary rigidity of the structure, the lower boards are mounted. By the way, these same details will serve as the basis bottom shelf. To do this, in full accordance with the drawings of the workbench, saw off 4 wooden parts with a section of 50x150 mm.

To fix the bottom boards, measure 30 cm from the edge of each support. At this height, one piece is attached to the three rear legs of the structure, and from the front board is attached between the middle and side supports on the side where it will be installed additional shelf.

Two short boards are mounted at the same height on the sides of the workbench.

Using an electric jigsaw or hacksaw, parts are cut from OSB sheets or plywood for countertops. It is fixed flush to the top of the desktop with self-tapping screws. To protect the surface of the workbench from damage, a layer of hardboard is laid on top of the plywood, which, as it wears out, can be easily replaced with new material. To install the bottom shelf, measure the distance from the middle to the extreme legs. The material is cut to this size and with a jigsaw or a hacksaw in its corners cutouts are made under support legs. The fastening of the shield to the lower base is carried out similarly to the installation of the table top.

To obtain the stability of the frame structure, when attaching the supports and assembling the frame of the bench workbench, be sure to use joiner's square. After installing the workbench, bubble level check its horizontal position. If necessary, the level can be changed by placing small segments thin plywood under the legs.

Workbench with your own hands. Step-by-step instruction

After the assembly is completed, the workbench is impregnated with a special protective composition, varnished or painted.

Small workbench for home DIY

The design of the locksmith's workbench proposed below will greatly facilitate the locksmith's and installation work not only in a small garage, but also on a balcony, in the corner of a utility room, etc. With all the functionality and convenience of a full-size desktop, it won't take up a lot of space and can fit a variety of tools and accessories in its drawers.

table top small workbench It is made of two sheets of plywood glued together with a thickness of at least 18 mm and has dimensions of 1500x600 mm. To strengthen the table top, it has an additional thickening at the edges with two layers of plywood sheet, which gives a thickness of 72 mm.

Considering that 18 mm thick plywood is not the cheapest material (the cost of one sheet is about 1000 rubles), you can save a little if you buy a full-size sheet with dimensions of 2440x1220 mm. Unfortunately, this material is not enough to make a reinforcing strip, which is located around the perimeter of the lid, so you will have to additionally look for a small piece of plywood sheet. Otherwise, the design of the countertop will have to be changed.

Starting to build a small carpentry workbench with your own hands, prepare the following tools and materials:

a rule with a length of at least 2 m;
Circular Saw;
joiner's square;
notched trowel with a tooth size of 2x2 or 3x3 mm. Can buy finished tool or make it yourself using a grinder;
screwdriver or a set of screwdrivers;
spanners;
good wood glue, for example, "Moment Joiner"
plywood 18mm thick;
wooden beam 40x60 mm;
self-tapping screws;
bolts, nuts, washers.

In addition, for the independent manufacture of a workbench, you need to acquire good carpentry clamps, without which it will be problematic to glue plywood sheets. If quality tool it is not possible to purchase, you can use inexpensive Chinese clamps, which will need twice the amount.

The process of making a workbench with your own hands begins with lids, on which a strip 1520 mm long is cut from a sheet of plywood 2440 mm long. Sawing this part, they get elements measuring 1520x610 mm to reinforce the sides of the lid. Then, as a rule, the plane of the plywood sheets is checked in order to orient them with a convex surface inward when gluing.

The next step will require maximum concentration and accuracy - within a couple of minutes you need to evenly distribute wood glue on the surface of one sheet of plywood. If you feel that a lack of experience will not give you the opportunity to cope with this work in such a short time, then use PVA furniture glue to connect wooden parts. It has no time limits and can be applied with a simple paint brush. Having prepared the clamps and boards in advance to distribute the load over the entire plane, lay the bottom sheet on three boards, and after applying the adhesive, cover it with the top plywood shield.

Having installed the pressure boards on top, tighten the structure with clamps, constantly controlling the flatness with the help of the rule. The place in the center of the tabletop cannot be pressed with a clamp, so it is left unloaded.

When gluing a shield from several sheets of plywood, you can do without clamps if you put the structure on a flat surface and press it evenly over the entire plane with some kind of load. After the glue dries, the clamps or the load are removed and proceed to the next step in the manufacture of the workbench with their own hands.

So that the tabletop has a strict geometric shape, when cutting it parquet you have to be very careful. A rule can be used as a guide rail for a saw. When cutting the tabletop to dimensions of 1500x600 mm, maintain 90 ° angles using a carpenter's square or using the factory corners left when cutting plywood as a template. Dissolve the remaining scraps of the plywood shield into strips 150 mm wide. You will need them to reinforce the tabletop around the perimeter, so glue them around the entire edge of the tabletop in two layers. In this case, the upper strips should overlap the joints of the lower pieces of plywood.

For the manufacture of underframe use a bar with a section of 40x60 mm. At the same time, the tsargs and prolegs are made of solid lumber, and the supports are glued from two segments and one whole beam. The height of the workbench is chosen taking into account your height, since when using it there should be no inconvenience and discomfort. In our case, the height of the workbench from the floor to the top surface of the tabletop is 900 mm.

Next, glue the legs and assemble two frames. In this case, it is important to observe the perpendicularity of the connections, since when deviating from right angle the geometry of the structure will be broken. It will be easier to achieve this condition if, even at the trimming stage, the angles of all parts are strictly at 90 °. In our workbench, the frame width is 900 mm and the height of the support legs is 830 mm. The gap from the floor to the bottom prong should be 150 mm.

After the glue has dried, the frames are mounted on the countertop and fastened with clamps. Then the legs are set strictly at an angle of 90 degrees to the bottom surface of the plywood shield and another set of prolegs and tsargs are cut out. For fixing the structure to the tabletop, self-tapping screws 8x120 mm are used.

You can increase the stability of the workbench if the prolegs and drawers are additionally fastened with the same self-tapping screws. Choosing a recess for the head of the hardware pen drill, ensure the aesthetics of the joints.

The workbench is almost ready. If desired, a box for storing tools can be made in its underframe.

Do-it-yourself metal workbench for the garage

The workbench made of steel has the necessary strength and reliability, which are required when working with metal products. Such a desktop can add functionality to any garage or workshop.

Materials and tools

To start making a workbench in the garage with your own hands, you should acquire the following locksmith tools:

angle grinder with cutting and grinding discs;
welding machine;
building level;
electric jigsaw;
drill with a set of drills;
screwdriver;
measuring tool.

Do-it-yourself metal workbench drawings

Some of the materials that are needed for the workbench can be found in the garage, and the missing parts can be bought in the construction market. You will need:

steel corners 50x50x4 and 40x40x2;
profile pipe 60x40x2;
steel strip 40x4 mm;
steel sheets 2200x750x2 mm;
boards 50 mm thick;
15mm plywood and drawer rails;
metal screws and bolts.

Also, prepare the paint and rust converter to make the product look aesthetically pleasing and the metal to be protected from moisture.

Step-by-step instructions for making a metal workbench

cutting material. A profile pipe is cut into the frame. The steel corner is used to strengthen the structure and edging the table top. The metal strip is needed as guides for the side panels and for the manufacture of drawer brackets.

Frame welding. From pipes 2200 and 750 mm long, connected in pairs, a rectangular tabletop frame is mounted. At the same time, it is taken into account that on top of the frame it will be necessary to weld the corners into which the boards of the working surface are laid. To strengthen the frame, segments are welded every 400 mm steel pipes as stiffeners.

How to make a workbench with your own hands from metal. Photo

Support legs 900 mm long are mounted along the edges of the table by welding, which are reinforced at the bottom with jumpers from a corner or a profile pipe.

On both sides, the frames of the drawers of the workbench are welded to the legs.

Corners for edging are installed on the frame of the tabletop, after which they are fixed with a welding joint.

From a corner with a length of 2200 mm and 4 corners with a length of 950 m, a crate of a power vertical panel for a tool is equipped.

The finished frame is strengthened steel bar brackets, which are welded to its sidewalls. For strengthening, 24 elements are required. Additionally, it is required to drill holes in each strip for mounting the side and rear plywood walls.

Plywood is cut into pieces for the manufacture of boxes, after which they are assembled using self-tapping screws. The number of boxes and their location depends on the specific needs and personal preferences of the owner.

After assembling the drawers, metal strips with holes for attaching the slide are welded to the sidewalls of the frame.

All welds and sharp corners they pass with a grinder with a peeling wheel installed, and the rusty sections of rolled metal are cleaned with a metal brush-nozzle.

The metal frame is treated with an anti-corrosion compound and painted with weather-resistant paint.

The boards are cut along the length of the countertop and placed in a frame from a corner. To prevent rotting and damage to wood by insects, the boards are treated antiseptic composition.

The lumber is placed in a prepared bed, leaving gaps of 2-3 mm between the wood and the metal to allow the wood to expand when it swells. After that, the boards are screwed with self-tapping screws.

The upper steel sheet is treated on both sides with a rust converter, and after drying, it is attached to wooden table top self-tapping screws.

They paint the drawers of the table and install them on the rails, and also attach the side and back plywood sheathing.

After the workbench is made, a vice and other necessary equipment are installed, hooks are attached to place the tool.

What is a workbench

The workbench is a table designed for work related to the manufacture and installation of products made of wood, metal and other materials. Often, workbenches are additionally equipped with equipment for fastening workpieces, drawers and shelves for storing tools and accessories. Depending on the intended purpose, carpentry and locksmith workbenches for working with wood and metal are distinguished, respectively. Work tables for workshops and garages can be single or multiple. Workbenches designed for one workplace have a width of up to 0.8 m and a length of up to 1.5 m. The dimensions of multi-seat locksmith tables increase according to the number of people working behind them. The distance of the working surface from the floor is usually 0.8 - 0.9 m, however, there are also designs with adjustable height. Workbenches are most often made of metal or wood, and their countertops are covered with sheets of plywood, hardboard, galvanized sheet, boards and other materials.

This carpentry workbench has a solid frame, a solid work surface and plenty of storage space. convenient storage tools and fixtures. You will make the main structure with your own hands in two days, and you will gradually add various useful additions.

Tools for the job

To process solid wood and sheet materials, you will need a tool:

Hacksaw.
Electroplaner.
The saw is circular.
Grinder machine.
Drill and drills.
Clamps.
Screwdriver.
Pencil.
Square.
Roulette.
Brush.

Carpenter's workbench frame

Take a flat pine boards without large knots with a section of 50x150 mm. Dry the raw lumber: the lower the moisture content of the boards, the less likely the structure will warp. The considered carpentry workbench is designed for comfortable work the master is 170–180 cm tall. To change the height of the structure, make the legs higher or lower.

Table 1 - list of frame parts

Name	Finished dimensions, mm	Material	Quantity
Name		Material	Quantity
leg detail
bottom spacer
Top spacer
cross prog
Cover crossbar
Longitudinal proleg
Longitudinal side
Bottom shelf
Countertop spacer

All elements of the base of the carpentry workbench are paired, so mark two parts of the same length on a board 150 mm wide at once.

Saw all wooden blanks along the length, with the exception of spacers: short ones are more convenient to cut already planed, and long ones should be sawn off later “in place”.

Measure the width of the board, subtract the thickness of your circular saw blade, and divide the result in half. Set the calculated size on the measuring scale and make sure it is perpendicular saw blade. Spread the boards exactly in the middle.

Sharpen the details and finish them sandpaper medium grit.

File the bottom spacers and sand the ends. After cleaning the surfaces of dust, apply glue to the small prong and to the end of the leg.

Squeeze the parts with a clamp, wipe off the squeezed out glue and drill holes with a countersink drill.

Fasten the blanks with screws 6.0x70. Prepare the rest of the legs of the carpentry workbench frame.

Bevel the bottom ends to reduce the chance of wood splitting when the workbench is moved.

Prepare for gluing the joints of the legs with the longitudinal prongs. Fasten the parts with screws, setting a right angle.

Screw all four legs into place.

Place the halves of the frame and the longitudinal sides on the floor, measure the length of the upper spacers.

File the parts and fix with glue and screws.

Assemble the top frame of the carpentry workbench on a flat surface. Fasten the bars with wood glue and 6.0x80 mm screws, drilling pilot holes for them.

Gather bottom harness workbench, I use clamps and auxiliary boards for convenience.

Put the top frame in place and align the entire structure. Connect the frame parts with screws.

cut out sheet material 16 mm thick lower shelf and fix it on the bars

Workbench for carpentry work

Use sheets of MDF, chipboard or plywood 16–20 mm thick for the workbench cover. Glue the plates in two layers and get a countertop with a thickness of 32–40 mm.

Drawing and arrangement of the cover of the workbench: 1 - edge strips (birch, maple); 2 - working surface (solid fiberboard); 3 - carrier plate (chipboard, plywood or MDF).

For countertops, you can take sheets of chipboard left over from unnecessary furniture. For example, the walls of a wardrobe are suitable. Take them as a basis and add small pieces so that the lid of the carpentry workbench turns out to be 670x1940 mm in size.

Place narrow slabs closer to back wall and towards the center of the workbench. Place large sheets in top layer countertops. Glue the cut blanks.

Fasten the sheets with self-tapping screws, deepening them into the countersunk holes. Trim the edges by hand circular saw at a distance of 20 mm from the edge.

Align the tabletop with the frame and secure with screws.

Cut the slats for the edge trims. Saw off 45° bevels and cut the planks to length. Put a piece of fiberboard on top of the workbench, add a flat panel on top and fasten it all with clamps.

This makes it easier to attach the pads. Align the ends with the edges of the worktop and press the rail against the panel - the top plane will be flush with the workbench cover. While holding the plank with one hand, drill pilot holes and secure the parts with screws.

Move the fixture to the other side and install the remaining pads. Process the planks with a grinder.

Drill a hole in the corner of the board so that the fiberboard can be easily pushed out of the recess when replacing it.

Clean the surfaces of dust and cover the wooden parts of the frame with wood stain. Lay the fiberboard in the recess of the lid. If you are using pieces of material, then fix them with double-sided tape. Install a carpenter's vise on the workbench.

Drawers for storing tools in the carpenter's table

Filling the space under the lid of the carpentry workbench, use modular principle. Individual blocks are easier to make and more convenient to later change when space is needed for a new tool. There will be a certain overspending of material, but the mass of the workbench will increase and its stability will be enough to work with power tools.

Scheme of organization of storage places: 1 - box full extension; 2 - roomy plywood box; 3 - container made of chipboard; 4 - wide box; 5 - compartment for portable tool box; 6 - a place for cases and blanks.

Use drawers from old furniture

Choose boxes that are suitable in size from unnecessary desk or chest of drawers.

Sign wooden elements and carefully separate them. Clean the spikes and lugs from the glue.

Cut the planks to width, removing worn corners and cracked grooves. If the original bottom of the box is flimsy, prepare thicker plywood or fiberboard. Make new grooves on the circular saw.

Assemble the box "dry", adjust the parts if necessary. Clean the surfaces and glue the structure. Use mounting brackets to accurately assemble right angles.

When the glue dries, sand the corners and sides of the drawer, securing it for ease of use.

Prepare the guide rails and calculate the dimensions of the module.

Block calculation for three drawers

File the bottom, top and side panels. Fasten the guide rails with screws.

Assemble the panels into a module and test the movement of the boxes. Place the block inside the workbench, placing props under it.

Drill pilot holes, countersink and tighten self-tapping screws. Fasten the chipboard to the top rails and to the legs of the workbench.

Install the front pads on the drawers. Having marked the location of the case, grab it with one screw. Insert the box into place and adjust the position of the panel. Carefully remove the drawer and tighten the rest of the screws.

Fasten the remaining overlays - the module with wide drawers is ready.

Carpentry table compartment for portable drawer

The middle module is made to the full height of the workbench to increase the rigidity of the carpentry workbench. For the case, take a chipboard 16 mm thick and cut out two sides, a bottom and a lid.

Housing of the middle module: 1 - frame diagram; 2- side wall; 3 - bottom and top panels.

Attach the guide rails to the sidewalls, assemble the frame with screws and install close to the right block.

Prepare the details for the drawer.

Drawings of the elements of the box: 1 - long wall; 2 - short wall; 3 - bottom; 4 - front pad; 5 - rail.

With a circular saw, select the grooves in the walls, which can be done with a regular disk. Set the cutting depth to 6 mm and the width to 8 mm. Run all four parts. slide longitudinal stop 2 mm saw blade and make a trial cut. Check the groove and adjust the stop if necessary. Run the rest of the blanks.

Assemble the module and install rails on the bottom to protect chipboard edges from chipping and providing a more “smooth” ride.

Fasten the front panel with screws and put the drawer in place.

How to make modules with convenient drawers

The arrangement of the housings of these modules is identical to the previous designs. The drawer placed on roller guides is manufactured taking into account the mounting clearance, so its width will be less inner size housings by 26 mm (for common rails with a thickness of 12 mm).

The device of the module and the details of the box: 1 - assembly diagram; 2 - back and front walls; 3 - front panel; 4 - bottom; 5 - side walls.

Before assembling the housing, fasten the restrictive wooden slats and metal guides.

Scheme of mounting guides on the walls of the case.

Fix the finished module under the cover of the workbench.

To install the rails on the drawer, unsnap the latches and pull out the small rails.

Fasten the pieces to the walls. Determine the required distance from the edge to the guide yourself based on the specific design and a gap of 10 mm between the wall of the box and the top panel of the frame.

Pull out the middle rails as far as they will go.

Insert both rails at the same time, holding the middle rails with your fingers. If the box "went" tight, take it out and try again.

Put the front cover in place.

How to make a drawer for a carpentry workbench from plywood

Saw the blanks of the box body from 10 mm plywood, and for the bottom take a sheet 5 mm thick.

Scheme of cutting parts for two plywood boxes: 1 - front panel; 2 - back insert; 3 - side wall; 4 - front insert.

Process the blanks with a grinder.

Make grooves for the plywood bottom in the side walls, back and front liner. Remove burrs with sandpaper.

Glue and screw the parts of the front and back walls with screws.

Apply glue to the joints and into the groove.

Assemble the structure using corners and clamps.

Fasten the parts with screws, drilling pilot holes.

Assemble the second plywood box with your own hands.

Install a panel on the back wall of the carpentry workbench to increase the rigidity of the structure and to accommodate hand tools.

Finish the drawers and the cut ends of the chipboard with a finishing compound.

Power up your DIY workbench and start filling containers with tools.

The device and purpose of the workbench

The carpenter's workbench is a workbench for manual and mechanical processing wooden products. The design and ergonomics of a classic carpentry workbench allow you to fix parts in various spatial positions and perform basic carpentry operations with maximum convenience: make wooden parts, assemble structures, cover them with finishing compounds. Traditional carpenter's table designed to work with lumber up to 3-3.5 m long. For processing longer pieces, a carpenter's workbench is used.

The carpentry table consists of a workbench (cover) and a workbench (bearing frame). A traditional workbench is equipped with front (front) and rear (end) vices, with the help of which the workpieces are fixed in the required spatial positions.

There are holes in the table top and wooden vise jaws. They are designed to install clamps and stops of various sections and heights.

Having placed the stops in desired configuration, a part is placed between them and pressed with a screw vice mechanism. Thus, the workpiece is securely fixed in a horizontal position. Based on the thickness wood detail, use a stop of the appropriate height, which will not protrude beyond the edge of the workpiece and interfere with processing.

How to choose the optimal workbench height?

The height of carpentry workbenches varies between 85-95 cm. Optimal Height tables are selected based on the growth of the master. If, standing at the workbench, the palms freely rest against its lid, then the size is chosen correctly. Behind such a workbench it will be convenient to perform all basic operations, without frequent bending and stretching, which lead to rapid fatigue.

What materials are best to make a structure?

The carpentry workbench must have sufficient strength and rigidity, since during operation it is subjected to heavy loads, both static, formed under the weight of massive workpieces, and dynamic, arising in the process of sawing, drilling, impacts, etc. Sufficient strength characteristics are provided not only by the features of fasteners, but also the type of materials used.

Wood is traditionally used to make the base. conifers. The table top is made of durable wood: oak, beech, ash, maple, etc. The lumber used to create the workbench must be dry (moisture content of about 12%) without knots and other defects.

About making a bench cover

Experience shows that when making a carpentry workbench with your own hands, it is more expedient to purchase a ready-made glued shield, which will become a blank for the lid. The effort and time spent on cutting, jointing the edges, gluing the shield and leveling it when creating such a massive part will be incomparable with the money saved.

When performing work that increases the risk of damage to the cover: drilling, chiselling, etc., work surface it is better to cover the workbench with thick plywood sheet or fiberboard cut to the shape of the lid. It is advisable to make this simple flooring immediately with a workbench.

Manufacturing and assembly of sidewalls

The design of the sidewall consists of two legs (B), tsargs and supports (A). The part is assembled on a through glued spike.

Figured cutouts of the tsarg and supports (detail A) are cut out on band saw followed by edge grinding.

In accordance with the dimensions indicated in the diagram, the legs are marked with sockets for the spikes of the prolegs, after which they are selected with a chisel or milled.

On the outer side of the legs, a conical recess is made for the head of the coupling bolt. A recess with a diameter of 35 mm and a depth of 11 mm is made with a Forstner drill. A through hole with a diameter of 14 mm is drilled in the center.

Sawing spikes and eyelets

Spikes and eyes are made on sawing machine or manually, guided by the basic principles of creating spiked joints. In such a critical design, the first option is preferable, since it allows you to minimize errors and inaccuracies, ensuring a flawless fit of the connection. The blanks must have prepared flat surfaces and conform to the dimensions indicated in the drawing.

The halves of parts A are glued together, having previously placed an insert in the groove that will prevent displacement.

Sidewall assembly

Parts A and B are glued into a finished joint. After drying, the excess glue that has come through is carefully cleaned with a chisel. The assembled sidewall is polished.

A hole 19x38 mm is drilled in the center of the glued drawer side under the dowel (L) to fix the cover of the workbench.

Production of prolegs and underbench shelves

According to the dimensions indicated in the drawing, blanks for prolegs (detail C) are cut out in the amount of 4 pieces. Spikes are made at the ends of each part, adhering to the dimensions indicated in the photo. As in the case of the sidewall, this operation is best done on a saw machine.

The connection of the prolegs with the sidewall is made detachable on a bolt screed with a transverse nut. To do this, a recess for transverse nuts d25 mm and a depth of 32 mm is milled on the inside of the prolegs. A hole of 14x95 mm is drilled at the ends of the prolegs. At this stage, it is better to use a drilling jig, since the holes must be made strictly at an angle of 90 °.

The support strips (details D and E) are screwed with self-tapping screws with an offset of 22 mm from the upper edges of the prongs.

According to the dimensions specified in the “General Detailing” drawing, the slats of the bench shelf are cut out (detail F). Holes are drilled and countersinked at the ends of each plank. The planks are ground and sequentially mounted on the assembled frame.

Mounting the bench cover

Non-through holes d19 mm and 32 mm deep for dowels (L) are drilled on the back side of the workbench.

With a d19 mm drill, through holes are made on the lid for bench stops. Similar sockets 45 mm deep are drilled at the end of the cover. All holes are chamfered. The stops should easily enter the sockets and not play.

Advice! For all drilling operations, use a drill with a jig to ensure neat holes at a perfectly right angle. It is not difficult to make such a guide yourself, having a piece of timber at hand.

Bench vise installation

Having decided to make a workbench with your own hands, it is more expedient to buy a carpentry vice at ready-made. In this case, you will get the most reliable and functional design, and, importantly, get rid of unnecessary headaches during their installation.

Manufacturers of bench vises strive to adhere to standards in the manufacture of their products. Here we take a look at the wiring diagram. standard designs. But it is quite possible that you will have to improvise, adapting the installation to the features of non-standard bench vise.

Vice jaws - parts H, I and J (2 pcs.) - are sawn from hardwood. After that, holes are drilled for the guide rods, lead screw, sockets for bench supports and holes for fixing screws.