Do it yourself metal scaffolding. Scaffolding. Choosing the type of scaffolding

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Before you start building scaffolding, you need to decide what material they will be made of, and what type of scaffolding (more precisely, the method of fastening) you actually need.

Today there are two materials from which you can make scaffolding with your own hands. It's either wood or metal. Accordingly, finished structures can be either metal or wooden. But if we consider the methods of attaching the elements of these forests, then there will be more varieties. This:

Frame forests. They are in demand when carrying out plastering work.
Wedge scaffolds are indispensable when working with heavy loads, and they can be easily disassembled.
Clamp scaffolding - used when working on objects with a complex configuration.
Stud forests. This variety is especially popular, as such forests are quickly assembled and disassembled.

Having decided on the varieties, you can move on to the question - is it worth building even the simplest scaffolding with your own hands, or is it still entrusted to the masters of their craft. In the case where your solution will be unambiguously economical, you can look at detailed photos and video ideas on how to quickly and efficiently assemble scaffolding yourself. By the way, in the same place, you will find a hint on how to store them later, or disassemble this structure, until the next use.

Scaffolding drawings

In general, you need to understand that assembling scaffolding with your own hands, drawings can greatly facilitate the task. Acting according to existing scheme, you will quickly cope with the installation. The only thing to learn is that any forests are made up of elements such as:

main racks;
horizontal and diagonal braces necessary for structural strength;
floor jumpers;
board flooring (support) on which a person should stand;
reliable stops;
obligatory fencing in order to avoid falling from a height;
stepladder for lifting to the desired height.

As you can see, it’s not so difficult to master and assemble scaffolding with your own hands. But is it really worth it? Indeed, in most cases, these structures are not some goats-platforms, but serious structures designed to perform heavy work at a certain height.

Scaffold assembly instructions

In this case, scaffolding involves the use wooden materials, because few people would think of country conditions assemble metal scaffolding, unless they are ready-to-assemble elements that are small in size.

And do-it-yourself wooden scaffolding can be useful only for work at a level not exceeding the second floor and mainly for repair and facade work. Their use in more difficult conditions and under heavy loads can be not only impossible, but also dangerous. Nevertheless, so that you still do not get confused in the assembly steps, we suggest that you use the assembly instructions for the simplest design.

First of all, you should remember the approximate values. Namely:

The distance between the racks should not go beyond two to two and a half meters.
The width of the flooring for work must be at least a meter.
The total height of the structure should not exceed six meters.

And now - to work! In order to start assembling, you must prepare everything in advance necessary materials. These will be:

Boards, the thickness of which is not less than fifty millimeters, and the width is not less than one hundred mm. You can replace them with a 10x10 beam or round timber for stops and racks.
Boards for fencing and struts. Their thickness should be at least thirty millimeters.
Boards for flooring and lintels - 50 mm thick.
Nails. But do not try to replace them with self-tapping screws - in this matter they are not reliable comrades.

1. Observing all the distances that were indicated a little above, fasten the four posts on all four sides using the diagonal braces provided.

When building your own house scaffolding not enough. They are needed both when laying walls and when finishing them, they will come in handy when roofing works and installation of a drain. Reliability is the main requirement for scaffolding, because the safety of builders depends on it.

If possible, it is worth renting industrial scaffolding. But if the construction stretches for a long time, or finances are very limited, you can make scaffolding with your own hands. Their design is simple, because private construction rarely requires scaffolding with a height of more than two floors.

load heavily makeshift scaffolding after all, it’s not worth it, the maximum of people working for them is two.

Types of scaffolding and their features

The scaffolding may be entirely wooden or composed of metal pipes and boards. The former are cheaper and easier to assemble, but can withstand less weight. The latter will require a large investment of money and time for construction, but can be used longer, disassembled and rebuilt if necessary. There are 4 types of scaffolding, depending on the design and the fasteners used.

Clamps are the most difficult to assemble, but can have a variety of configurations to suit buildings with a wide variety of architectures.
Wedge scaffolding is able to support more weight.
Pin woods are quickly dismantled and assembled.
Frame scaffolding is economical in construction and light in weight, they are able to withstand weights up to 200 kg per square meter its surface. Maximum height - 50 m. Most suitable for self assembly and use in individual construction.

Design features and materials

Frame scaffolding is built from steel racks and frames, the flooring is made of wood. Aluminum structures have less weight, but they can also withstand a smaller load. Recommended parameters for one section:

height - 150 cm,
width - 100 cm,
length - 165-200 cm.

The number of sections depends on the height of the house and the length of its walls.

To work, you need to stock up on materials. You will need:

profile with a square section 3 * 3 cm, 150 cm long for vertical racks,
pipe with a diameter of 15 mm for diagonal and horizontal struts,
a profile with a square section of 2.5 * 2.5 cm for connecting inserts on which the flooring will rest, and fences,
boards 4-5 cm thick and 2-2.5 m long for flooring,
for lifting (it can be used ready-made, or it can be assembled from a profile between the side posts).
Bolts with washers and nuts for connecting elements, self-tapping screws for fastening boards.

From the tools you need a hacksaw or a grinder, a drill with a drill for metal, welding machine. Connections can also be made using special threaded fasteners.

We build scaffolding from pipes and boards

The preparatory stage before assembling scaffolding is that the piece of land where they will stand is well compacted. So the whole structure will stand more reliably. If construction work is carried out during rainy times, then drainage can be provided so that the land under the forests does not erode. Boards are placed at the locations of the supports for greater stability.

Important! Even a slight play in the joints or insufficiently screwed threads can lead to the destruction of scaffolding and injury.

First of all, the profile and pipes are cut. The pipe is cut into blanks of 200 cm for diagonal struts and 96 for horizontal struts, which will connect the sides. They are cut from the ends by 7-8 cm and flattened. In these places they will then be connected to the profile.

Vertical racks are connected with profile segments, making sure that they are located strictly horizontally. Then horizontal sections The scaffolding is connected with screeds on which the boards will lie, welding them every 30 cm. Holes for bolts are drilled on the racks and struts. Racks are leveled and spacers are attached to them.

Adapters are used to connect several sections of scaffolding. You can make them yourself. Cut off 8-10 cm of the profile with a section of 3 * 3 cm, thread sections of the profile with a section of 2.5 * 2.5 cm into it and connect them by welding.

Boards are laid on horizontal screeds and fixed with self-tapping screws. For scaffolding can be painted.

At construction work outside and inside the premises (if they have high ceilings), scaffolding is often needed - it is not necessary to carry out drawings of auxiliary structures with your own hands, but anyone can assemble them using a ready-made method.

Requirements for scaffolding for construction and repair

Scaffolding is widely used in construction and repair. Even the usual do-it-yourself wall plastering it is not easy to carry out without them, and the installation of a roof or wall siding becomes a very difficult task without auxiliary supporting structures. Of course, the mobility of stepladders or hastily put together goat-stools is higher, and their cost is noticeably lower.

But only solid-sized scaffolding will allow you not to be distracted by the constant movement along the facade or the wall being repaired of everything you need. Saving time and effort, concentrating energy on repairs - the main benefit from scaffolding, homemade or purchased. The productivity of construction labor when using scaffolding increases several times - so that their cost can be entered in the column "payment for the speed and convenience of repair."

Any design of scaffolding must be reliable and durable - including taking into account the people, tools, construction and Supplies. If there is even the slightest doubt that the scaffolding cannot be assembled with the proper margin of stability, it is better to purchase a finished, branded product in a specialized store. Moreover, the choice of such products is quite diverse.

Scaffolding classification

The term "forests" itself is associated with the historical experience of finishing facades with plaster, stucco and painting during the construction of palaces and other elite buildings. For plasterers and finishers, multi-meter "shelves" were erected from real logs and platforms. After the completion of the work, all this material was spent on firewood, leaving to posterity only its name and the principle of construction.

Modern options are based on a frame and are performed taking into account reusable. Structurally, scaffolding can be performed in the following options:

Pin forests - from steel pipes, with welded curved fittings and socket locks. Heavy and clumsy, it takes a lot of time to assemble and move - but very strong. For example, stone or brickwork it is best to do it with them. On pin scaffolding can be loaded a large number of heavy building materials, they are very stable and durable;
Frame scaffolding made of light aluminum and / or steel alloys - made of pipes and stiffeners with reliable fixation of the structure into a solid frame. They may have wheels for moving on flat ground. Great for plaster or balcony siding- when the weight of building materials is small, and the work is associated with rapid movement along (up and down) the object being repaired;
Wedge scaffolding is a kind of symbiosis of frame and pin structures, combining the advantages of both. Withstand heavy loads and are mobile at the same time. Fastener nodes are made in the form of flanges with slots, which allows you to create polygonal and broken lines along complex facades.
Clamp forests - universal designs small carrying capacity for repair and restoration of curvilinear facades;
Suspended - the well-known "cradles", with the help of which facade glass is washed and tile joints are sealed. Between two stationary scaffolding, a structure without ground support can also be suspended.

Suspended, clamp and wedge options are only purchased, their independent "production" is not recommended. Pin or frame scaffolding, the drawings of which are given below, are assembled with their own hands with the appropriate carpentry and metalworking skills.

Scaffolding - do-it-yourself wood, step by step instructions

Wood is the easiest to process and at the same time inexpensive material- the creation of wooden scaffolding fits into several repair stages, which are quite doable on their own. We will describe in detail how to make them from wooden beams, boards and battens.

How to make scaffolding with your own hands from wood - step by step diagram

Step 1: Selecting and preparing wood

To work, you will need several types of wood. Bearing supports are made of timber 10x10 cm in size (a smaller section will not allow heavy construction work to be carried out from scaffolding). Horizontal floorings are knocked together from thick boards (from 50 mm), stiffeners - from boards with a thickness of 25 mm or more. Fencing rails with a thickness of 20 mm or more can be used. Wood for supports and platforms should be free of knots and cracks, it should be treated with special compounds to prevent rotting and mold.

Step 2: Frame planning

The end sides of the wooden scaffolding must be made at a converging angle - this will significantly increase the stability of the structure and will not interfere with the repair of walls.

In addition, it is advisable to choose load-bearing supports from a 10x10 cm beam that are solid, and not composite - then the strength of the multi-storey structure will be higher. The minimum allowable width of homemade wood scaffolding is 50 cm, their length can be 3-4 meters. The height limit is considered to be 6 meters, otherwise the risk of overturning the scaffolding during operation is high. For work, you will need standard woodworking tools - saws and hacksaws, a planer, a drill and a screwdriver.

Step 3: Building the frame

Two beams with a height of not more than 6 meters are laid on a flat horizontal surface, the distance between them is equal to the planned length of the scaffolding. The other two fit right next to each other. The upper part of the bars should slightly converge upwards for the stability of the entire structure. For a distance between supports of 4 meters along the length of the scaffolding at the bottom convergence of 40-50 cm is enough up. That is, if the center distance between the support beams at the bottom is exactly four meters, then from above it is set at 3.5-3.6 meters. The result is two symmetrical wooden trapeziums.

Sidewalls from a bar are screwed to the support beams with self-tapping screws. They will serve as supports for working decks, therefore they are mounted with inside. In general, wooden scaffolding own production can have no more than three "mounting floors", so there will be only four sidewalls from a bar. Three correspond to the levels of the forests, and the lower one serves for strength, it is fixed 20-30 cm from the ground.

Step 4: Making a three-dimensional frame

To connect the side trapezoids into solid scaffolding, you will need an assistant (and preferably two). It is difficult to perform this operation alone, and the docking accuracy will certainly suffer. Side crossbars are prepared in advance, and they will be of different lengths. The fact is that sustainable forests should be pyramidal in both width and length. The required angle of convergence is small, otherwise an uncomfortable gap will appear between the upper part of the scaffolding and the facade being repaired. Say, for a width of 1 meter, an upper clearance of 85-90 cm will be enough.

Having installed the wooden sidewalls vertically and slightly tilting them towards each other, we fasten the side crossbars with long self-tapping screws. The use of screws is preferable because after repair and construction work, the scaffolding can be disassembled (partially or completely) and folded in a barn or garage.

Step 5: Final and optional

It remains to nail boards for flooring and a fence above each platform to the transverse bars. On the sides of the scaffolding, additional crossbars can be filled, which will act as stairs. It is also useful to make a knot in the form of a retractable pin above each support for attaching scaffolding to earthen ground- on flat surfaces it is removed, and the whole structure stands on the cuts of the end beams.

If you decide to build a house, do-it-yourself scaffolding can be easily made. The basis of this design can be wood. Before starting work, it is important to know that the equipment will include support posts, lintels, decking, stairs, and spacers. The last components should be located both vertically and horizontally. It is worth preferring wooden scaffolding, it will be much easier to make them with your own hands than metal ones. However, such forests are not intended for significant loads. After the design can be disassembled and used individual elements for another purpose. However, reassembly is also possible, but the scaffolding will no longer be strong.

Features of the assembly of wooden scaffolding

If you decide to assemble scaffolding with your own hands, then you will need to follow some rules. The design should be convenient to use, which is why a minimum distance of 2 m should be ensured between the racks, while the maximum limit is equivalent to 2.5 meters. The width of the flooring should not be less than 1 meter. When choosing a height, you need to be guided by a maximum limit of 6 meters. In order to make it convenient to work, you need to create a drawing.

Preparation of materials and tools

When scaffolding is made by hand, it is important to initial stage prepare the entire set of tools and materials. Thus, in this case, one cannot do without a square-section beam with a side of 100 mm. You will also need boards, you need to choose or purchase those that have a thickness of 30 millimeters. Nails act as fasteners, but a tape measure will allow you to measure. Well, if the master has it Circular Saw. When choosing wood, you need to pay attention to dry and fairly dense lumber, which is devoid of cracks. If raw wood is preferred, then it will significantly weight the structure. Among other things, after drying, the structure may be deformed. Due to the fact that the equipment is built only for a certain time, its elements do not need to be polished and treated with antiseptic compounds.

Frame work

If scaffolding will be made with your own hands, then at the initial stage you need to deal with the frame, while four pieces of timber will be used, which must be cut to the height of the scaffolding and laid on an even, if possible, base. The next step will be manipulation, in which two beams should be used, each of which has a length of four meters. Two more elements should have a length of 3.6 meters. These elements should be nailed on the inside of the support beams. Smaller blanks are reinforced along the top edge, while larger ones are installed along the bottom. As a result, you should get trapezoids, which are additionally fixed with diagonal braces.

Frame installation

If do-it-yourself scaffolding is made, then the next step will be to lift the frames. They need to be installed vertically and temporarily fixed with sidewalls. The step between the lower edges of the racks should be equivalent to 1.15 meters. The distance between the top edges should be 1 meter. It is important to analyze how correctly the side parts are located in relation to the horizontal surface. If everything turned out to be correct, then the frame can be knocked down with nails. Finished scaffolding should take the form of a pyramid, and its side parts should be located strictly horizontally and made of timber.

Flooring installation

If you decide to make scaffolding with your own hands from wood, you need to attach the boards that make up the flooring to the upper bars that are located across. It is better to fix them along the width of the frame. Elements should be laid closely, leaving no gaps at the joints. In the side parts of the frame, additional elements located across should be fixed, which will be convenient to use as a ladder.

An alternative option for making scaffolding

Scaffolding do-it-yourself wood can be made according to different technologies. You can use the one that was developed by yourself. For work, lumber of different sections and sizes should be prepared. For example, horizontal flooring should be made of more massive boards, their thickness should be equal to 50 millimeters. But the stiffeners can be made from boards, the thickness of which varies from 25 millimeters. Railing rails may have given parameter from 20 millimeters and above. Some experts still recommend treating wood with compounds against rotting and mold. This is true if you have planned not only the construction of a house, but also other structures on the site. If you are thinking about how to make scaffolding with your own hands, then you can use the recommendations of a specialist. They advise to perform the end sides of the structure at a converging angle, which should increase the stability of the scaffolding. Among other things, these elements will not interfere with the repair work.

Conclusion

Bearing supports, which will be based on a beam with a section of 10x10 cm, it is desirable to make them reinforced, since elements of a smaller section reduce the strength of such a structure. When doing scaffolding with your own hands, it is recommended to look at photos of such structures in advance. The minimum allowable width is 50 centimeters. While the length can reach four meters. If the height recommended above is exceeded, there is a risk of the structure tipping over. If possible, it is recommended to stock up on electric tools, otherwise the work will take a long time. When attaching the side parts to the support beams, self-tapping screws can be used. However, some masters do not advise doing this. If scaffolding is made from boards with their own hands, then safety is the most important requirement. This is due to the fact that such structures can have a rather impressive height, a fall from them can cause serious injury. That is why you should not save on lumber, you should only purchase high-quality and well-dried wood. Only if these rules are observed, it will be possible to achieve an excellent result, which implies the strength and reliability of scaffolding. Such structures can be operated even for more than one year, despite the fact that they will be subjected to negative external influences.

How to make scaffolding with your own hands - photo, video. At the stage of construction, repair work and maintenance of a private house, sometimes you have to work at height. With the help of the usual ladder work is not always convenient, and sometimes even impossible.

The way out of this situation will be scaffolding with your own hands.

General information

Scaffolding made of metal will be many times more reliable and durable, but often such structures are made of wood, as it is cheaper. Everyone can work with wood, and all you need is nails or screws, a saw, a screwdriver, or a hammer. As you can see, the set of tools is small and can be found in everyone's house, and if something is not there, at the purchase the right tool won't take a lot of money.

Metal is more difficult in this regard. To make metal scaffolding with your own hands, you will need a certain skill, as well as a welding machine and at least a basic understanding of how to properly weld seams. It is for this reason that in 85% of cases forests are made of wood.

materials

It is clear that scaffolding (scaffolding) is needed for a short time, but the manufacture requires the use of high quality wood and with a minimum number of knots. Some builders recommend making scaffolding from spruce wood, since, unlike pine, its knots are located singly and have almost no effect on the final strength of the board. But almost no one has spruce boards, but there are more than enough pine boards.

Scaffolding can also be made from them, but before that you will need to check the material very carefully (at least those boards that go to the flooring and racks). To do this, you need to fold two columns (3-4 bricks on top of each other, 2 building blocks, 2 boulders and more).

When checking boards that are 3 meters long, there should be a distance of 2.5 meters between them. A board is laid on the posts, and then they stand in the middle and jump on it. If the board has weak points, it will crack or even break. If it lasts, you can use it.

Now about the thickness. The thickness of the boards for scaffolding should be chosen according to what the structure will be, the distance between the racks and the expected load. The only thing to note is that boards with a thickness of 4-5 cm are most often used for flooring and racks, and boards with a thickness of 2.5-3 cm are most often used for jibs. Such boards can also be used after dismantling scaffolding in construction works, if you can not damage it during disassembly.

Self-tapping screws or nails

Probably, in 100 years there will be disputes about what is better - nails or self-tapping screws, but in this particular case, everything is aggravated by the fact that the work will be carried out at a height and therefore the design must be reliable. In this case, the nails will the best option. The fact is that they are made of soft metal and under load they can bend, but not break.

Unlike them, self-tapping screws are made of hardened steel, which is brittle and will simply break under shock or variable loads. This is critical for scaffolding, because there are cases when they broke. But it was about the "black" screws. There are also yellow-green anodized ones, which are not so fragile and can withstand loads.

If you are seriously concerned about reliability, it is better to use nails to make scaffolding with your own hands. But they are not loved because at the end of the work it is impossible to disassemble the connection without loss and quickly, as the wood will be damaged.

At independent work do this - assemble everything on anodized screws. If the design turns out to be correct and convenient, play it safe by driving a couple of nails into each joint. In order to prevent damage to the wood in the future, trimmings of thin boards can be placed under the nails, and whole boards can be used over a long span, but with a small thickness. When disassembling, you will be able to split them and easily remove the nails.

Design features

For various kinds works will require different types of scaffolding and scaffolding. For work with light weight materials, high load-bearing capacity is not required. In this case, you can make side scaffolds or a structure in the form of an envelope. For finishing gables or just outdoor decoration of a one-story low house, the use of construction goats is permissible, and flooring is laid on their crossbars. If nothing can be supported on the walls, goats with floorboards laid on the crossbars can be used.

For styling brick walls or building blocks, finishing the facade with stone or brick, full-fledged scaffolding will be required. Wood scaffolding can be made more rigid by using braces and stops.

As a rule, such structures are not attached to the walls, but are fixed on the stops that will support the racks. Let's talk about each type separately.

Attached scaffolds

The design got its name due to the fact that they are simply leaned against, and not attached. They are held in place by an emphasis. The more you load this scaffolding, the stronger it will stand. There are two types of construction, which are made in the shape of the letter "G", but they are deployed in different directions.

In the first figure, reliable and simple design scaffolding. Their only drawback is that they cannot be adjusted in height. It will be convenient to hem the roof overhang, clean or install a drain, in general, all work that does not have a large variation in height. Some were even able to adapt such scaffolding for building a house from a bar. It will be convenient to lift or roll logs along the edges of the stops. They are quite reliable, as they can withstand a log of 11 meters and three people in addition.

The second drawing shows Armenian scaffolding or envelope scaffolding. This design is also reliable and simple, although at first glance you can’t tell. But still it is verified by thousands of people who used them in construction. It's attractive the ones it takes minimal amount building materials, and assembly / disassembly / transportation can be done in a few minutes. The main thing is the manufacture of triangles, and installation at the right height will not take much time - raise the triangles, support them with a beam, which then needs to be fixed in the ground.

In order to make triangles, a board with a thickness of 4-5 cm and a width of 10-15 cm is used. The vertical part can be long so that it is convenient to lift the scaffold to the required height for it. The crossbeam on top should be between 0.8 and 1 meter long, and the floorboards will be laid on it. They will also be 5 cm thick, and wide - the more the better, preferably 15 cm.

When making corners, position the joint so that the horizontal board is on top. To increase reliability, use metal pads in the form of a corner. But if you install the corner with three nailed on both sides, this is not necessary. Installation of triangles is made for each meter. If it works out, they are nailed to, and if not, all hope is for gravity. The main load in this design goes to the thrust board, which is placed at an angle and it rests with one end on the ground, and the other on the upper part of the triangle.

The stops must be made of timber or boards with a thickness of at least 5 cm, pipes of at least 7.6 cm in diameter or section (for profiled pipes at least 5 * 4 cm). During the installation of the stop, it should be placed exactly in a corner, hammered into the ground, additionally fixed and driven in wedges. To eliminate the risk of lateral shift, the installed stops should be fixed with several jibs that will connect everything into a rigid and strong structure. For jibs, you can use an unedged board, if any, the main thing is that the width and thickness parameters are not less than the minimum limit.

If you want to grow the thrust boards (to be more than 6 meters in length), you should make an additional emphasis. It will rest against the middle of the base and thereby remove part of the load. Now about do-it-yourself scaffolding flooring. It must be made from wide board with a thickness of 4-5 cm. In this case, it is required to fix them to the triangles at least with self-tapping screws. This design does not provide for the installation of railings, and the slightest fluctuations underfoot will cause discomfort, so it is highly desirable to take care of fixation.

Drawings and photos

The described options are good if the use of heavy materials is not expected. It is not always possible to lean the structure on the wall, and then full-fledged scaffolding will be needed. In general, the design is not complicated, but it also requires a sufficient amount of wood.

For the arrangement, you will need boards with a thickness of 4-5 cm, and first we begin to assemble the racks. It will be two thick boards or vertical beams, which are fastened with crossbars. The size of the crossbars should be from 0.8 to 1 meter. Make them proceed from the fact that a more or less convenient flooring width starts from 0.65 meters. But still, you will feel more confident on the flooring 0.8 meters wide. In order to give the structure stability on the sides, you can make racks that will taper upward.

To prevent the scaffolding from falling onto the wall, the crossbars should be made with a release of 25 cm. They will not allow the structure to collapse. Racks are placed at a distance of 150-250 cm from each other. The span depends on the thickness of the boards that you will use to make the flooring so that they do not sag. Installed racks at the right distance should be fastened with slopes between them. So they will not allow the structure to fold to the side. The more you make jibs and crossbars, the more reliable the design will be.

Also, so that self-made scaffolding does not fall, they should be supported with timber or boards, and one end should be nailed to the racks with nails, and the other should be buried in the ground. Cross beams they will not allow the structure to fold to one side, but there is a possibility that without fixing the scaffolding will fall forward. To avoid this, the beams should be supported with jibs.

If the height of the scaffolding is 3 meters, you can not support it, but if the work will be carried out at the level of the second or even third floor, such fixation is necessary. You should also make a railing if the work will be carried out at high altitude. For this, it is permissible to use not very thick boards, but the main condition is that they should not have cracks and knots. Handrails will give confidence during construction.

Standard 6 meters are enough to the floor level of the second floor. But such forests are inconvenient in that they have to be completely disassembled if there is a need to move the structure to another. You can build scaffolding from sturdy old boards. Sometimes pipes or poles are used to make stops and braces - everything that can be found on the farm.

Construction goats

There is another easy way to make mobile light scaffolding with your own hands - to make the same goats, which are stuffed with certain step crossbars, which will be both a ladder and a support for the flooring. Floor boards should be laid on the cross members. This option is good because it is ideal for sheathing a house. The sheathing will take place from the bottom up and it is necessary to change the height all the time, and there is no way to lean or attach the structure to the wall. For this reason, construction goats would be the best option.

Sometimes they make one rack on one side vertical and without tilt. This will make it possible to install them closer to the wall, and then the flooring will be located conveniently for work. This great option when painting, caulking and preventive treatment.

Varieties and knots of metal scaffolding

When building a stone house, or a building made of building blocks, do-it-yourself metal scaffolding is more suitable. They can withstand any load. Their popularity is less than wooden structures because it's more expensive. The second decisive moment is the analysis of the construction wooden scaffolding, since the boards can then be put into action, and the metal parts will gather dust in the shed.

But metal scaffolding also has a lot of advantages. When disassembled, they will not take up much space. From time to time, owners of private houses still need them - to take care of a log house, for example, which means that once every 2-3 years they will definitely be needed. In this plan metal structure It will be more practical than wood, as it is easier to assemble and stronger.

All scaffolding made of metal have the same shape of vertical layers, which are connected by slopes and crossbars.

Only the method of fastening between them will differ:

All you have to do is choose one of the types, and the type of work that you are going to carry out will help you decide. When making metal scaffolding with your own hands, pin ones are most often used. They are the easiest to implement, but not good only for a rectangular shape, and to bypass complex shapes, you will have to additionally weld the pipes.