A stove pipe with an exit through the wall is an indispensable element of any heating device. But not many people think at the construction stage, where it will take place, how to properly arrange it. And after building a house, it is not always easy to build a structure for removing smoke. How the pipe should pass through the wall, the article will tell.
When placing the chimney inside the wall, you can hide unnecessary communications, this is a more correct structure, but the external installation of the system has many positive aspects:
- Higher fire safety. Sometimes there is an ignition of the soot accumulated in the pipe, usually this occurs at a temperature (+1200ºC). Only ceramics can withstand such heat. If a pipe embedded in a wall is heated to such a temperature, a fire is most likely inevitable. In the same situation with external structure, the consequences will not be so catastrophic.
- No smoke. Over time, the smoke and gas exhaust system becomes unusable and the smoke begins to seep through the cracks, and then enter the room, which can be avoided by placing the channel on the street.
- Useful space is saved. When the chimney is located inside, it will occupy some living space.
- Installation can be carried out after construction is completed.
- There is no need to interfere with the integrity of the roofing.
- To improve traction, it is possible to bring the pipe to a greater height.
There are a number of disadvantages of such a structure.
These include:
- Sufficiently high windage at a considerable height.
- The need to use additional fastening material.
- Pipes need to be properly insulated.
- High heat losses.
- Sometimes the type of chimney does not match the style of the building.
Chimney installation rules
It is necessary to remove combustion products from the furnace for several reasons.
Chief among them:
- Life and health of people.
- Efficient operation of the furnace or boiler.
Tip: It is necessary to properly organize the withdrawal carbon monoxide poisoning can even lead to death.
- Any fuel does not burn without access to oxygen, which enters through the smoke channel.
There are several rules for installing chimneys:
- There should be no communications in the place where the channel passes.
- The sections of the chimney passing through the wall are closed protective cover or plastered, after pre-filling the space with heat insulating material.
- The chimney fixing is installed in increments of 60 millimeters.
- In this design, two-circuit systems are usually used, which are better protected from mechanical influences. In this case, it is necessary to install a valve that allows you to adjust the thrust.
What is needed for the installation of an external chimney
To equip the chimney you will need:
- Bulgarian.
- Electric drill with a set of drills of different diameters.
- Riveter.
- The sealant is heat resistant.
- Aluminum tape.
- Clamps for fixing the outlet pipe.
- corners.
The main elements for installing an external chimney are shown in the photo.
An external smoke exhaust pipe is installed for:
The chimney is an important part of the proper arrangement of the furnace, solid fuel or gas boiler. The efficiency of the heating device and the fire safety of the heating system depend on its proper design and installation.
Chimneys in a house, especially a wooden one, or in a bath should be made of various refractory materials. Brick chimneys are resistant to high temperatures, strength and aesthetics, but at the same time, the porous and heterogeneous structure of the brick contributes to the accumulation of moisture, the deposition of combustion products - soot and soot. As a result, the light chimney overgrowth, draft deteriorates, and the operation of the furnace becomes unsafe. It is especially undesirable to use brick chimneys in systems for removing smoke from solid fuel, including pellet, boilers with closed camera combustion.
Ferrous metal pipes are not recommended for use in wooden houses and baths, as well as when installing a gas or solid fuel boiler: they get very hot and burn out quickly, which can lead to a fire. Sometimes chimneys from such a pipe are mounted in brick garages and other utility rooms, but even there they are ineffective, as they are subject to corrosion and condensation.
Most good decision- insulated sandwich chimneys of stainless steel and ceramics. The round section of the pipes facilitates the passage of smoke and ensures good draft. On a smooth inner surface less soot deposits. Due to the insulation, the formation of condensate is excluded. Thanks to modular system their installation is easy to do with your own hands. Structurally, stainless steel and ceramic sandwich chimneys are somewhat different.
Ceramic Sandwich Chimney is a system of modules, each of which consists of an internal ceramic pipe element and a hollow foam block. For thermal insulation, they are separated by a layer of basalt insulation. The modules are delivered unassembled, assembly is carried out on site using special glue and sealant. To install a ceramic chimney, a foundation is required due to their significant weight.
Stainless steel sandwich chimneys are sold in the form of ready-made modules. They are two pipes of different diameters, nested one inside the other, and separated by a layer of insulation. The inner pipe is made of stainless steel, the outer one can be either stainless steel or galvanized sheet. They are assembled much faster than ceramic ones. In addition, due to its low weight, a stainless steel chimney does not need a foundation.
In terms of fire resistance, ceramic chimneys are superior to all others, they can withstand temperatures up to 1200 degrees Celsius for a long time, some models are equipped with ventilation systems. The service life of such chimneys is at least 50 years. But the price of ceramic chimneys is high, so their installation is advisable only in residential buildings, cottages and other capital buildings.
General installation rules
- To ensure good draft, the height of the chimney from the grate of the heating unit must be at least 5 meters.
- The chimney located at the ridge should rise 0.5 m above it, in other cases its height is determined according to the diagram below.
- Quite stringent requirements are imposed on chimneys. Their observance is mandatory for any structures made of sandwich pipes.
- In this case, it is necessary to take into account the buildings standing next to the house or bathhouse, the outlet of the chimney should be 1.5 m higher than their roof.
- If, as a result of calculations, the height of the chimney above the roof turned out to be more than 1.5 m, it is necessary to foresee its fastening on stretch marks to rigid structural elements in advance.
- If the roof material is combustible - ondulin, roofing material, soft roof, then the top of the chimney must be equipped with a spark arrester - a special module with a 5x5 mm grid.
- The smoke channel must not be narrowed, for example, modules with an internal diameter of 110 mm cannot be installed for a furnace with a 120 mm smoke nozzle. Widening is allowed, however, special adapters must be used.
- The length of horizontal sections should not exceed 1 m. If the vertical pipe is at a greater distance from the heater, it is necessary to use 45 degree bends.
- Elbows, tees and other adapters of sandwich chimneys must be unloaded - installed so that they do not carry the weight of the higher structure. For this, support platforms are used.
- All module joints must be accessible for inspection. They must not be placed in overlapping areas. To ensure this requirement, it is necessary to select the length of the straight sections of the chimney.
Correct assembly sequence
- First, the outlet pipe of the boiler or furnace is connected to the lower element of the chimney - a single-layer uninsulated pipe. It can consist of several modules and be vertical, horizontal or bent 45 or 90 degrees.
- An adapter is used to switch to an insulated pipe. It is put on an uninsulated pipe, smearing the joint with a special sealant that can withstand temperatures up to 1300 degrees Celsius.
- Do-it-yourself further assembly is carried out from insulated elements. They are inserted into each other so that the upper part is put on the lower one. The top can be determined along the edge of the pipe - it is wavy, which facilitates docking. With such an installation, the internal channel is connected “through the smoke”, that is, the direction of the joints is located so as not to interfere with the smoke flows inside. All elements are connected to a heat-resistant sealant.
At the place of installation, smoke exhaust systems are divided into internal, passing through interfloor ceilings and the roof, and outdoor, located at the outer wall of the building. The output of the chimney in this case is done through the wall of the house or bath.
- The part passing through the heated premises may be made of a single stainless pipe - its surface heats up strongly during fuel combustion and additionally gives off heat. When passing through an unheated attic in a house or bathhouse or outside, the chimney needs to be insulated, so sandwich modules are used for this part of it.
- A straight chimney can rest directly on a heating device - a stove, a pellet boiler. In the presence of bends, bends, it is mandatory to install support platforms at the level of floors, at least every 5 meters.
- When installed outdoors, the system is fixed using wall mounts - brackets with clamps. They are sold complete with chimneys. The lower part of the chimney is supported on a cantilever bracket.
- The pipe is equipped with purges in places convenient for access. They are a tee with a plug put on the outlet. If necessary, the plug is removed and the smoke channel is inspected and cleaned of soot. A plug with a condensate receiver is installed at the bottom of the pipe.
- The greatest attention should be paid to passages through walls, ceilings and roofs. For them, special modules are used: “passage through the ceiling” and “passage through the roof”. The top of the pipe is completed with an umbrella to ensure fire safety, improve traction and ventilation.
In a wooden house
Before you do the installation of a do-it-yourself smoke removal system, you need to study the fire requirements for chimneys installed in wooden house.
- In addition to the above, they have a number of features:
- the distance from an uninsulated chimney to any combustible surfaces must be at least 25 cm horizontally and 80 cm vertically;
- the passages of the chimney through the roofs must be carried out with the help of passage units - metal boxes filled with heat-insulating material, usually basalt mats;
- in case of connecting several smoke channels into one, it is advisable to place vertical chimney in a separate box made of non-combustible material, for example, foam concrete.
You can get acquainted with simple designs of cold smoked smokehouses and methods for their manufacture at home and in the field.
Details of all the stages of manufacturing a smoke generator for cold smoking are described in the following article:
In the bath
Bath - a place of increased fire danger. The heating of wooden surfaces in the bath reaches 90-100 degrees, and the temperature at which wood begins to char is 120-150 degrees with prolonged exposure. The most heated wooden elements located near the chimney. Therefore, fire safety distances must be strictly observed.
The sequence of installation of passages through the wall and ceiling in the bath, which can also be used in the house, is shown in the video.
Since most of the heat loss in wooden bath occurs through the ceiling, the pipe is often led out through the walls.
Chimney for buleryan
Connecting Buleryan to the chimney with your own hands does not generally differ from other types of heating appliances, but it is necessary to take into account the features of the combustion mode in this type of furnace.
Due to the efficient afterburning of flue gases, their temperature at the outlet of the furnace does not exceed 200 degrees. As it moves along the pipe, it decreases even more, the pipe warms up weakly, which can cause condensation on the pipe walls. When soot is deposited on wet walls, carbonic acid is formed, which adversely affects materials such as brick, ferrous metal, and asbestos.
- Therefore, additional requirements are imposed on chimneys for buleryan:
- recommended height - from 3 to 4 meters;
- the length of the horizontal section - strictly no more than 1 meter;
- the material of the inner surface must be resistant to acid - stainless steel or ceramic sandwich chimneys;
- it is recommended to insulate all sections of the chimney except for the exit from the buleryan;
- the chimney must be equipped with a condensate collector and cleanings.
The effective operation of the buleryan is possible only with access to the furnace of fresh air, therefore it is advisable to use a modular ceramic chimney with channels for ventilation, its installation thanks to the prefabricated modular design you can do it yourself.
For solid fuel boilers
Ordinary solid fuel boilers, working on coal, wood or having a pellet burner, are characterized by high flue gas temperatures. Pyrolysis boilers with the regime long burning they burn the products of combustion contained in the smoke more efficiently, therefore they have a lower temperature at the outlet, and, like buleryan, they are prone to increased condensate formation.
- Before ordering chimney accessories for a solid fuel boiler, the following characteristics should be clarified from the technical data sheet:
- boiler type;
- location and diameter of the flue pipe;
- flue gas temperature;
- recommended chimney height for good draft;
- the need for additional ventilation.
You should also inspect the design of the boiler and assess the difficulty of cleaning the flue pipe. If access to it from inside the boiler is difficult, it is necessary to provide an inspection tee in the immediate vicinity of the boiler outlet.
If the pellet boiler is equipped with a closed combustion chamber, it would be more appropriate to install a coaxial chimney with a ventilation system.For gas boilers
Gas boilers are heating units with a closed combustion chamber, so the installation of a coaxial chimney will be the most effective for them. It is a structure consisting of two pipes of different diameters, while the smaller pipe is inserted into the larger one and fixed in it with the help of jumpers.
Along the inner contour of the coaxial pipe, flue gases are removed from the combustion chamber of the gas boiler to the street, and air moves in the opposite direction along the gap between the chimney pipes. It enters the combustion chamber and supports combustion, while there is no air intake from the room where the gas boiler is installed, which significantly improves the microclimate in the house and eliminates the installation of an additional ventilation system.
Air is a good heat insulator, so the outer surface of the coaxial chimney heats up slightly. At the same time, in ventilation duct the air is heated, and it enters the combustion chamber of the gas boiler already warm, which increases the efficiency of the boiler.
The installation of a coaxial chimney for a gas boiler is most often done through the wall, less often through the floors and the roof, as this increases costs. Safe distances from building structures when installing a coaxial chimney are shown in the picture.
Video about installing a coaxial chimney
When installing a conventional sandwich chimney on a gas boiler, you must do it yourself additional system supply ventilation, since the oxygen needed for combustion will be absorbed from the air.
Proper installation of the chimney is the key to a long and safe work heating system both in the house and in the bath. It is possible to make it with your own hands, but if there is even the slightest doubt in your abilities, it is better to entrust this task to professionals. They will make calculations, help you choose best view chimney, mount a gas exhaust and ventilation system, and the owner of the house will only have to independently carry out the revision and cleaning of the chimney.
When building a house, it is important to immediately think about how they will be laid. internal systems, providing heating, drainage, chimney, etc. The smoke channel is laid simultaneously with the construction of walls and ceilings. Very often, they think about where it will be located when the house has already been built. In this case, lay the chimney through the wall. How to competently lead the chimney through the wall is described below.
Basic withdrawal rules
One of the main issues in the construction of a drainage system is how to properly organize the chimney outlet through the wall.
When carrying out the chimney outlet through the wall, it is very important to observe an angle of 90 degrees. The next structural element is installed perpendicular to the previous one. At the bottom, I attached a condensate collector, and all the main elements on top.
Diagram of chimney outlet options
The resulting passage through the wall is carefully isolated. All joints (where the fastening of various elements is located) must be sealed with clamps.
Another important nuance- correct and reliable fastening of the chimney to the wall. At one time I was prompted in time that it was necessary to fasten at approximately the same intervals. In my opinion, the most successful distance for installing mounts is 50-60 cm.
Be sure to isolate the pipe from the wall. The best option - high quality and affordable - is basalt fiber. The final stage - the "neck" of the chimney is covered with a special cap.
Mounting through a wooden wall
If you have a wooden house or a bathhouse, you need to know exactly how to bring the chimney through the wall. The main problem is the issue of security. But if you approach the matter competently, then even the chimney in the bathhouse through the wall, where there will be a constant difference in high temperatures, will last reliably and for a long time.
Let me tell you about a few basic rules. The pipe, which stretches through the entire passage, must be covered with a material that is resistant to high temperatures. This will help to avoid warping the wood - as well as avoiding the risk of fire. I advise you to give preference vertical system(as, for example, a potbelly stove, which is often used to heat garages).
The chimney is fixed to the wall of a wooden house at a distance of 1 meter from each other. For wooden buildings, I advise you to choose long straight pipes: the absence of joints makes the structure stronger, plus it will be much easier to mount to the wall.
Benefits of an outdoor chimney
The use of such a system will provide increased efficiency, and the low weight of the structure will help to avoid installation problems. Although there is an opinion that the chimney in the wall of the house does not look aesthetically pleasing. But it provides fire safety!
A clear plus is that there is no need to make a passage through a wall, ceiling or roof. No need to further strengthen the foundation. In addition, a minimum of soot is deposited on the walls: and it is quite possible to remove it yourself.
Materials and tools for installation
If earlier chimneys were made of brick, now they are choosing, for example, a sandwich design. The advantages of this design are as follows:
- High service life (if using stainless steel materials).
- The overall weight is light, making installation easy.
- And the third point, important for me personally: aesthetic appeal.
To install a sandwich chimney, the most important thing is to choose good materials. The integrity of the entire structure depends on how strong and resistant to high temperatures each pipe will be. I advise you to choose those made of fire-resistant steel and galvanized metal.
In addition, we will need clamps, plugs, sealant (required - fire-resistant!), Couplings, fasteners. You will also need adapters, tees, and an elbow that will allow you to change the direction of the structure.
Basic structural elements
I propose to consider the main structural elements using the sandwich chimney as an example:
- One of essential elements- pipes. Tees are also needed - they help to branch the smoke channel and connect the chimney directly to the firebox of the heater.
- Knee - you will need to make the necessary bend (the most commonly used knee bends are 45 and 90 degrees).
- The support console - in fact, the whole structure will be held on it, attached to the wall or to the floor. Plus, clamps are needed as a fastening-fixation to the wall.
- Revision tee - for cleaning pipes from soot.
- Condensate collector.
- The mouth is the final element of the structure.
Installation instructions
The starting point should be the heater itself. Simply put, they begin to mount the structure from the bottom up - from the fireplace. First, the pipe is connected to the boiler pipe and secured with a plug.
- We carefully insert the inner pipes one into the other. Then we put on the outer part.
- Reinforce the tees with support brackets. All joints are reinforced with clamps.
- On the lower part of the structure, I advise you to install a condensate collector to prevent precipitation from entering the pipes.
- Sealed couplings are installed exclusively at will - you can do without them. They are needed if the system operates in high pressure mode.
- When the system is practically assembled, you can carefully treat the pipes with a protective sealant.
If you doubt that it will be difficult to cope with the installation of the system on your own, it is better to immediately seek help. It is always easier to learn how to do it right right away than to redo it all over again, taking into account the mistakes made.
How to competently remove the chimney through the wall?
How to competently remove the chimney through the wall? When building a house, it is important to immediately think about how the internal systems will be laid, providing heating, drainage, chimney, etc. smoke
A lot of questions and problems arise at the moment when you want to make the passage of the chimney through the wall.
When designing this stage work should take into account a large number of factors, including:
- wall building,
- Materials used,
- pipe outlet,
- Chimney diameter.
Scheme of the output of the pipe from the furnace through the wall
Before figuring out how to bring a chimney through a wooden or concrete wall, you should carefully study the scheme for the output of the pipe from the furnace.
Below is a diagram of the output of a double-walled chimney through the wall:
Chimney outlet options through the wall
What chimneys can be led through the wall?
As building material usually black steel or stainless steel alloy is used, since this metal is the most protected from the damaging effects of hazardous factors and smoke components.
Calculations and installation rules
Installation rules imply careful consideration of all stages of future work:
- Make sure that the pipe itself will not come into contact with any combustible materials, which, under the influence of high temperature, can begin to smolder and release toxic fumes.
- With direct outdoor installation of the system, it is necessary to remember about the angles of deviation, which will act as active guides for the removal of smoke. The chimney should not be located parallel to the wall of the house, since in this case smoke will stasis - it simply will not be removed from the system.
- Special tees should be installed in the lower and side parts of the pipe, which will be used as a place for installing condensate drain mechanisms. If this step is not completed, then moisture when kindling a fireplace or stove will simply enter the furnace and extinguish the flame. All this will significantly complicate the process of kindling!
- The top of the pipe should rise above the edge of the roof to ensure that smoke and soot are blown off in the area of thinner air. Typically, such zones are formed at a distance of 15-25 cm from the roof sheet.
How to install a chimney?
The process of installing a chimney is divided into several main stages, which consist of:
- preparatory work,
- installation of fasteners,
- The actual chimney installation.
General stages of work:
- It is required to drill a hole in the wall through which the chimney itself will exit, using a special tool. Modern models have adjustable nozzles and active cooling systems to prevent the appearance of cracks on the surface of the facade.
- Passage through a concrete/brick wall. Concrete and brick walls represent the most comfortable material, which does not require additional processing. It is recommended to additionally putty the place where the hole was created in order to exclude the possibility of an early degradation of the wall of the room.
Passage through a wooden wall
When working with wooden surfaces should be carefully protected from overheating. Hot air passes through the pipe, which can lead to unintentional ignition of materials.
As an insulating material, ceramic mixtures, heat-resistant insulating materials, and even glass wool are often used. You should not save on thermal insulation, as the consequences can be very sad!
The nuances of mounting the passage of the chimney through a wooden wall
How to bring the pipe from the furnace through the wall?
Scheme of the output of the chimney through the wall. Step-by-step instruction for installation and installation work. What pipes to use? Advantages and disadvantages of the method.
The need to bring the chimney through the wall arises when installing heating equipment in an already built house. Competent selection of design, material, trajectory of the chimney becomes a guarantee of effective space heating. Also an important component of the flawless operation of the heating system is compliance with the installation algorithm established on the basis of practical experience and regulatory documents.
Functionality and design features
The range of optimal chimney length is 5 - 10 meters. An indicator below the minimum value makes traction difficult, and a pipe longer than the designated 10 meters will provoke excessive combustion, increasing fuel consumption.
Chimney through the wall to the street
Since the smoothness of the inner planes of the chimney allows to increase its durability, due to the slight accumulation of soot, consumers are increasingly choosing a single-layer steel pipe that successfully replaces brick counterparts. The installation of the chimney is facilitated if it is used modern design of two nested one inside the other steel pipes with an insulating layer of stone wool between them.
Such a system has proven its practicality, since negatively acting condensate does not form inside, and the outer surfaces receive little heat.
Making the output of the chimney through the wall with its further installation outside the house, it is necessary to consider the design of the protective box. It is advisable to make it brick, or use drywall, supplemented with refractory thermal insulation.
Basic installation steps
When installing a chimney through a wall, a certain sequence must be observed.
- In the place of the wall where the pipe is planned to pass, there should be no internal communications and wires.
- Marking is made on the wall and a hole of the desired size is prepared.
- A pipe is being installed, which is fixed in the prepared hole. The passage in the wall is laid out with refractory insulating material, and from above it is closed with a casing or plastered.
- The chimney is connected to the heating device by joining a three-section elbow with a tee using a transition piece.
Tee for the chimney and its dimensions
- In order to change the chimney vector to a vertical direction after exiting the wall, a tee is taken, equipped with a cleaning cup, which is fixed with a bracket. The horizontal section installed in the wall passage, experts do not recommend doing more than one meter, as this can reduce traction. If conditions do not allow this requirement to be met, then the total length of the chimney is increased to compensate.
- It should be taken into account that a pipe having a passage through a wall can be guided at an inclination, the angle of which is determined technical specification heating device. This circumstance must be taken into account in order not to impair the performance of the equipment.
- Further installation of the remaining part of the pipe continues, going vertically up along the wall. To keep it securely, a stand is provided below, on which the chimney rests.
Installation of chimney fixtures
Fasteners designed to fix the chimney to the wall have a step of 60 - 100 cm. After the pipe has been brought to the design height, a cone-shaped element is attached from above, which protects against possible debris. In the gap between the wall and the chimney, a layer of mineral heat insulator is attached, for example, basalt wool. From above, the chimney is also insulated and sheathed with a casing made of fire-resistant and corrosion-resistant materials.
Features of working with wooden walls
When equipping a chimney in a wooden house, it must be borne in mind that here its installation has some features.
When making a passage through the wall, you need to additionally protect the pipe by overlaying it with refractory bricks or asbestos. Such a measure is mandatory according to fire safety standards, and it will also prevent the wood fibers from drying out from heating at the point of contact with the chimney.
Chimney passage through a wooden wall
Starting the installation, the chimneys are selected from the range of three-layer products, abandoning the single-layer steel chimney, which is very hot. It is recommended to design horizontal section small length.
vertical part in the best option should be straight with no twists. In the design of the chimney to control the intensity of combustion, there must be gates. If all requirements are met, the heating device will function efficiently in a safe mode.
If wooden structure has a siding finish, then a gap to the chimney ≥ 15 cm is provided. This is due to the fact that the temperature range regulated by manufacturers for this finishing material, ranges from minus 50 degrees to plus fifty degrees. The entire passage is protected by refractory heat-insulating material.
When leading the chimney through the wall, it is recommended to orient it to the side of the gable so as not to make additional holes in the roof. If the heater in the house is located so that it is possible to remove the pipe only from the side where the roof slope is located, then a support post may be needed. The chimney is fixed to it with the help of sliding fasteners.
Roof connection to a round pipe
If the roof overhang is > 40 cm, the stand may not be necessary, as the chimney runs through a hole sawn into the roof. Here is an additional fixation of the pipe. It must be borne in mind that there should not be joints in this place. individual elements chimney. Above the opening, it is necessary to equip devices that retain snow. They will protect the chimney from excessive pressure from snow layers that can cause damage.
Vertical and horizontal chimneys
For boilers with forced draft, installation can be carried out simply horizontal pipe, which should be brought out through the passage in the wall similarly to chimneys, which also have a vertical part.
During the construction process, you can install a convenient chimney design in the wall, which is a mine lined with bricks. Here is placed a pipe attached to heating device. This layout saves a lot of space.
If the installation of a universal chimney in the wall is carried out in the partition between the rooms, then it becomes an additional source of light comfortable heat. In order to correctly connect the heating equipment, it is necessary to make a sufficiently spacious passage in the wall of the shaft and install the pipe, joining its horizontal and vertical parts. Stone wool is usually used for insulation.
Diagram of installing a chimney through the wall
How to equip a chimney through a wall - functionality, design features, main installation steps, features of working with wooden walls, expert advice.
There was also a simpler option - from a metal pipe, but additional difficulties arose with it. And how good it is now that sandwich pipes for chimneys have appeared.
What are the benefits
The advantages of sandwich pipes include:
- light weight,
- versatility of use, which allows them to be used with any heating devices,
- attractive appearance,
- durability and resistance to destructive factors,
- reliability in terms of the absence of the risk of fire,
- due to the smoothness of the inner surface of the pipe, the possibility of rarely cleaning from soot,
- ease of assembly
- quickly cools the smoke inside the chimney,
- suitable for both indoor and outdoor use.
It is clear that the stainless steel from which the pipe is made makes the price of it quite high, and this is a relative disadvantage. And improper installation over time can cause loss of tightness of the structure. But if the first pays off with a long service life, then the second depends only on who will be involved in the installation.
It is important to know
Before starting the installation, it is worth familiarizing yourself with some of the subtleties. For example, it is important to know that the larger the area of \u200b\u200bthe structure will be inside the room, the less heat loss will be. When creating a detailed diagram, consider the fact that even horizontal sections should be up to one meter. Please note that the contact of the system with any communications, such as gas and electricity, is unacceptable. And if on the way of placing the chimney they come across wooden details, then the pipe must be moved away from them using special steel brackets. The distance between the fasteners should not exceed one meter.
Also include in the plan a part of a collapsible pipe or an insert with a door through which it will be possible to inspect and clean soot. Of course, installing a chimney sandwich is a serious and responsible matter, so if you decide to do it without specialists, then understand the degree of responsibility and strictly follow the step-by-step instructions.
In the finished building, a chimney is being installed through a wall of sandwich pipes. To do this, take measures to protect the wall from the high temperature of the chimney. Well, if the house is new and it is possible to install the system indoors. But in a wooden house you can’t do without insulating materials. And it doesn’t matter what you choose for this purpose: mineral wool or asbestos, but you have to do it. Such fire safety standards regarding log cabins.
Already at the stage of buying pipes, you should have a diagram and calculations in your hands. A low chimney will not have draft, and often smoke and soot will return inside the room, and if it is too long, it will speed up the process of fuel combustion, and heat will go into the atmosphere. The optimal length of the system is in the range from 5 to 10 meters. In addition to the chimney itself, you will need various tees, pipes, elbows and fixtures.
It is clear that the ideal option is the passage of a pipe through a roof or wall, and it does not matter whether the construction project is taken into account. This guarantees your safety. But if it didn’t work out, then we are looking for a section on the wall where there are no other technological structures nearby. Experts advise to retreat from any communication at least 40 cm, and if this is not possible, then provide for additional insulation.
For different walls, their installation secrets
If you have walls made of logs, then pre-drill the necessary holes, larger than the pipe itself, in diameter. The round shape of the hole will help create a special drill. And now in order:
- The first way: you will need several heat-insulated pipes larger diameter than a chimney inserted alternately into each other,
- The second option: we lead the chimney through the wall, laying out the space between them with high-quality thermal insulation.
Passing through a brick or twin block wall is done like this. First, marking is done taking into account the appearance of cracks from the holes made. In order to avoid this kind of problems, put inside a special metal carcass. The free space near the pipe must be filled with refractory material and shields must be installed that will close the transition. The main difficulty is to go through the wall, and then to assemble the structure is quite simple. Collected? We fix on the wall.
It is clear that when mounted experienced craftsmen, then there is no doubt about safety and reliability, but if you decide to do it yourself, then just remember the responsibility entrusted to you for the lives of those who will live in this house.
Step-by-step installation of a chimney from sandwich pipes through the wall
In the foreseeable past, no one could have thought that the installation of chimneys would be within the power of everyone. And it's clear why. Previously, only a stove-maker knew how to properly create from brick desired shape and design size. Such knowledgeable people were greatly appreciated.
There was also a simpler option - from a metal pipe, but additional difficulties arose with it. And how good it is now that sandwich pipes for chimneys have appeared.
What are the benefits
Why sandwich pipes were able to quickly conquer the market? Simplicity of design, consisting of an outer and inner pipe, filled inside mineral wool for thermal insulation. Special mounts at the end facilitate installation, and it does not matter if it is carried out through the roof or wall. For production it is used reliable material like steel. If you know all the details, and even better, watch the video instruction, then assembling such a system with your own hands will not be a problem. But you must strictly adhere to the installation instructions and fire safety in order to avoid problems in the future.
The advantages of sandwich pipes include:
It is clear that the stainless steel from which the pipe is made makes the price of it quite high, and this is a relative disadvantage. And improper installation over time can cause loss of tightness of the structure. But if the first pays off with a long service life, then the second depends only on who will be involved in the installation.
It is important to know
Before starting the installation, it is worth familiarizing yourself with some of the subtleties. For example, it is important to know that the larger the area of \u200b\u200bthe structure will be inside the room, the less heat loss will be. When creating a detailed diagram, consider the fact that even horizontal sections should be up to one meter. Please note that the contact of the system with any communications, such as gas and electricity, is unacceptable. And if wooden parts come across in the way of placing the chimney, then the pipe must be moved away from them using special steel brackets. The distance between the fasteners should not exceed one meter.
Also include in the plan a part of a collapsible pipe or an insert with a door through which it will be possible to inspect and clean soot. Of course, installing a chimney sandwich is a serious and responsible matter, so if you decide to do it without specialists, then understand the degree of responsibility and strictly follow the step-by-step instructions.
In the finished building, a chimney is being installed through a wall of sandwich pipes. To do this, take measures to protect the wall from the high temperature of the chimney. Well, if the house is new and it is possible to install the system indoors. But in a wooden house you can’t do without insulating materials. And it doesn’t matter what you choose for this purpose: mineral wool or asbestos, but you have to do it. Such fire safety standards regarding log cabins.
Already at the stage of buying pipes, you should have a diagram and calculations in your hands. A low chimney will not have draft, and often smoke and soot will return inside the room, and if it is too long, it will speed up the process of fuel combustion, and heat will go into the atmosphere. The optimal length of the system is in the range from 5 to 10 meters. In addition to the chimney itself, you will need various tees, pipes, elbows and fixtures.
It is clear that the ideal option is the passage of a pipe through a roof or wall, and it does not matter whether the construction project is taken into account. This guarantees your safety. But if it didn’t work out, then we are looking for a section on the wall where there are no other technological structures nearby. Experts advise to retreat from any communication at least 40 cm, and if this is not possible, then provide for additional insulation.
For different walls, their installation secrets
If you have walls made of logs, then pre-drill the necessary holes, larger than the pipe itself, in diameter. The round shape of the hole will help create a special drill. And now in order:
- The first way: you will need several heat-insulated pipes of a larger diameter than the chimney, inserted alternately into each other;
- The second option: we lead the chimney through the wall, laying out the space between them with high-quality thermal insulation.
Passing through a brick or twin block wall is done like this. First, marking is done taking into account the appearance of cracks from the holes made. In order to avoid this kind of problems, put a special metal frame inside. The free space near the pipe must be filled with refractory material and shields must be installed that will close the transition. The main difficulty is to go through the wall, and then to assemble the structure is quite simple. Collected? We fix on the wall.
It is clear that when experienced craftsmen mount, there is no doubt about safety and reliability, but if you decide to do it yourself, then just remember the responsibility entrusted to you for the lives of those who will live in this house.
Step-by-step installation of a chimney from sandwich pipes through the wall: video instruction
In the foreseeable past, no one could have thought that the installation of chimneys would be within the power of everyone. And it's clear why. Previously, only a stove-maker knew how to correctly create a structure from bricks of the desired shape and size. Such knowledgeable people were greatly appreciated.
How to properly install a chimney from a sandwich pipe through the wall
In order to create the most comfortable conditions in this corner, in addition to comfort, you should take care of safety and ease of installation.
For this purpose, they have been devised chimneys from sandwich pipes. Due to their special design, combustion products in the form of ash and soot do not settle on the walls of the pipes, which additionally provides protection against accidental ignition.
What is a sandwich tube?
sandwich tube- This is a special smoke channel, made in the form of two interconnected metal pipes, which differ in diameter. In this case, a pipe of a smaller diameter is inside a larger one, and the free space between them with the help of high pressure filled with a special refractory material - heat-resistant basalt fiber.
The chimney itself can be represented as a constructor, which is assembled from special elements - tees, clamps and bends.
Ease of assembly is ensured by thoughtful design details. Each element has different sizes threads on both sides, thanks to which the parts are assembled according to the principle of sockets in sewer pipes. This connection provides the pipes with complete tightness. Clamps are used to further strengthen the connected segments.
How to properly assemble a sandwich pipe?
To begin with, a two-layer pipe is securely attached to the branch pipe of the sauna stove using a starting cone.
Chimney in the sauna stove- most simple design, since it has no turns and additions. In most cases, this is a straight pipe coming out of the stove and going through the ceiling to the street.
Step-by-step installation of a sandwich chimney in a bath
Despite the fact that installing a chimney from a sandwich pipe with your own hands is a very simple task, feasible for a person who has nothing to do with construction, you still need to pay attention to the basic subtleties of the installation. In this article, we will consider installation of a chimney through the wall.
- Installation takes place in the upward direction, from the furnace to the roof. When assembling the chimney, the narrowed end of the pipe is inserted into the previous, wider one.
- The sandwich pipe is never installed directly to the oven. First of all, it is better to put a single-wall stainless steel pipe. This will allow you to get more heat output, while protecting other elements of the furnace from overheating.
- Due to the absence of soot accumulations on the walls of the chimney, condensate is easily removed from it. For this, additional tees are installed.
Tees can be freely moved around the structure on special skids. To create such a design, you need to disassemble the chimney, fixing the landing brackets, then assemble the outer bracket and attach several corners to it.
- The wall should be closed with a sheet of plywood 10 mm thick, and asbestos should be attached to the plywood with screws. The next layer is galvanized steel with dimensions of 120 * 200 mm, also fixed with screws. In a steel sheet, carve a square recess for the pipe outlet, and insert an adapter into it. Then, using a special anti-corrosion varnish, cover the bracket.
- During the installation of the chimney, remember to leave some free space between the wall and the chimney, the so-called concession.
The maximum length of the chimney, starting from the grate and ending with the deflector, can reach 5-6 meters. At the joints of the pipes it is necessary to apply a sealing material with heat-resistant properties (withstanding temperatures up to 1000⁰C). At the end of the installation, be sure to clean the structure from the protective film.
For further cleaning of the chimney from soot, a revision is provided in the body of the pipe - a tee with a door on the side. It cuts directly into the pipe.
For a reliable support of the chimney, you can make a bracket with your own hands from steel corners 30x50 mm. For this, a drill with a grinder and M10 bolts is useful. Instead of bolting, the bracket frame can be electrowelded.
Conclusion
The most time-consuming step in the process of installing a chimney from sandwich pipes is drilling holes in the wall and sheathing the structure with insulating materials. And then, having prepared necessary material and tools, it is enough just to follow the manufacturer's recommendations.
How to install a chimney from sandwich pipes
In recent years, more and more chimneys are made from sandwich pipes. The relatively low cost long term operation, quite attractive appearance. It is also important that it is possible self-assembly sandwich chimney. This is not a very simple matter - there are many nuances, but you can do it yourself, without involving specialists.
Painted to match roofing option
What is a sandwich pipe and what are they
The sandwich pipe was named so for its multi-layeredness: there are two layers of metal, between which there is a heater. Such a structure solves many of the problems that were inherent in a simple metal pipe chimney. Firstly, the insulation layer does not allow the outer metal casing to heat up to critical temperatures, there is no hard radiation from the pipe. More comfortable conditions are created in the room. Secondly, the same insulation significantly reduces the amount of condensate that forms when the pipe is brought outside. Thirdly, since the outer casing is no longer so hot, it is easier to make the chimney pass through the roof or wall.
A sandwich pipe is two metal cylinders, the space between which is filled with insulation
What materials are they made from
Sandwich pipes are made of galvanized or stainless steel. Galvanized sandwich pipes for chimneys are rarely used. Unless for the removal of combustion products of a low-power wall-mounted gas boiler or gas water heater. Can be used for insulated ventilation. For more serious heating appliances, they are unsuitable - with high temperatures zinc burns out, steel quickly rusts, the chimney becomes unusable.
Sandwich pipes for high temperature flue gases are made of stainless steel. Moreover, stainless steel is used in different grades - from alloys with a low content of alloying metals to high-alloy heat-resistant. The thickness of the metal can also be different - from 0.5 to 1 mm, as well as the thickness of the insulation - 30 mm, 50 mm and 100 mm. It is clear that the scope will be different, and the price too.
As is clear from the table, different grades of stainless steel have different purposes. Cheaper alloys are used for the outer casing, more heat-resistant and expensive - for the inner one. This is necessary to reduce the cost of production, and high resistance to temperatures outside the chimney is not needed. There are even more budget options - the outer casing is made of galvanized steel. Outwardly, these products lose to stainless steel, but they serve normally (with normal insulation and its thickness).
Insulation and its thickness
Between the two layers of metal is a heater. Most often it is stone wool. The thickness of the insulation is from 30 to 100 mm:
- With 30 mm thick insulation, the flue gas temperature must not exceed 250°C. Such temperatures are produced only by gas boilers of small and medium power.
- A 50 mm thick insulation layer can withstand temperatures up to 400°C. Scope - any gas and liquid fuel boilers, wood-fired, provided that the chimney is led outside (through the wall).
- A 100 mm stone wool layer allows it to withstand temperatures up to 850°C. Such a sandwich chimney can be installed on any type of solid fuel boiler, in fireplaces and hearths.
In addition to the thickness of the insulation, it is necessary to pay attention to its brand, or rather, to the temperature range in which it can operate. Not all stone wool can withstand temperatures up to 850°C, but only some special brands. If you need a chimney for a solid fuel boiler, you will also have to take into account the heat resistance of the insulation.
A set of elements from which a sandwich chimney of any configuration is assembled
Connection types
The elements of a chimney sandwich can be connected to each other in two ways: sockets and corrugated edges. The socket connection assumes the presence of a slightly wider chamfer on one side. With this design, a high degree of tightness of the chimney is achieved. This type of sandwich pipe is well suited for gas boilers where it is important to prevent leakage. There is a minus: installation requires high accuracy.
The corrugated edge of the sandwich allows you to assemble the chimney without problems. The downside of this solution is that a significant amount of high-temperature sealant is required to ensure tightness, and it costs a lot.
Features of sandwich pipes for chimneys
It is also worth paying attention to the longitudinal seam. It can be welded or folded. If the seam is welded, it must be made in an argon protective environment (so that alloyed metals do not burn out). It is this type of connection that is required for solid fuel boilers, sauna stoves and fireplaces. For all others, you can use the seam connection.
Mounting methods
There are two ways to bring the chimney outside. The first is to lead the pipe through the wall, and then along outer wall raise to the required level. The second - up, through the ceiling and roof. Both of them are imperfect.
If the chimney is outside, due to the temperature difference, condensation actively forms in it. Therefore, a tee with a condensate collector (glass) and a cleaning hole must be installed in the lower part of the chimney. This unit allows you to maintain the chimney without much difficulty: the glass is unscrewed, the condensate is drained. Also, soot is periodically knocked off without problems - a special brush for the chimney can be run through the cleaning hole.
Approximate diagram of the passage of the chimney pipe through the wall and roof
If the chimney is led out through the roof, several passage nodes will be needed - according to the number of overlaps. If the house is one-story, you will need one passage through the ceiling, and the second through the roof. You will also need a master flash or apron for a round galvanized pipe.
Installation of a sandwich chimney on the street requires only one pass-through node - through the wall. But it will be necessary to fix it to the wall every 1.5-2 meters. If the walls of the building are combustible (wooden house or frame), the walls are necessarily protected by a non-combustible screen.
Smoke or condensation
Assembly types of sandwich pipes
As mentioned above, one side of the sandwich pipe is slightly wider, the other is slightly narrower. Due to this difference in diameter, the modules are connected to each other. If the wider end is turned up (in the figure on the right), the assembly is called "condensate". With this method of installation, drops of condensate flow down unhindered. The disadvantage of this method is that with insufficient sealing of the joints, smoke can seep into microcracks. This type of installation of a sandwich chimney is used when the pipe is led through the wall. This is where the free flow of condensate is required, and small smoke leaks are not terrible - they are not critical on the street.
If a narrower edge turns up, the second element is put on top of it with a wider part. This type of assembly is called "smoke" (in the figure on the left). In this case, the condensate flowing down the wall can seep through an insufficiently well sealed joint. But the smoke passes freely. This type of assembly is used if the pipe goes indoors (outputs through the roof). The condensate flowing through the pipe, of course, spoils the appearance, but it is not as dangerous as flue gases leaking into the room. Moreover, with good sealing of the joints, condensate will not leak.
In order for the connection of the chimney sandwich modules to be reliable, each of them is usually coated with a heat-resistant sealant, and then tightened with a clamp.
Sandwich chimneys are good because they have a modular structure, which allows you to assemble any configuration, with any parameters. Before you go to the store, you need to know the required chimney diameter, pipe height and those additional elements that will be needed.
Chimney diameter
When choosing the diameter of a sandwich pipe, a simple rule applies: it cannot be less than the diameter of the boiler outlet pipe. If your outlet pipe is 120 mm, then the inner diameter of the sandwich should be the same or larger. It may be wider, but less - definitely not, and narrowing cannot be done throughout the chimney. If the chimney is slightly wider than the pipe, an adapter is purchased, which is placed directly on the boiler outlet, and then the working size already goes.
If there is no boiler yet, but you know its power, you can choose a chimney based on these data:
- boiler power up to 3.5 kW - inner diameter of the sandwich - 80 mm;
- from 3.5 kW to 5.2 kW - at least 95 mm;
- more than 5.2 kW - 110 mm and more.
But it is better to buy (or at least choose) a boiler, and then decide on a chimney, because many manufacturers insure themselves by making the outlet pipes wider - to improve traction.
Installation of a sandwich chimney begins with determining the diameter
Pipe height
The height of the chimney above the roof surface depends on the place of its output, but at the same time its minimum height should be 5 m. That is, if the height of the house is small, in any case, bring the pipe to a height of 5 meters. If the height of the house is higher than 5 m, then the pipe should rise above roofing material to the following height:
- Should rise above the ridge by 50 cm if it comes out at a distance of less than 150 cm from it.
- If the distance from the ridge to the pipe is more than 300 cm, then the pipe may be lower than the level of the ridge, but the angle should not exceed 10° (see figure).
- If the chimney exits at a distance of 150 to 300 cm from the ridge, its height may be at the same level as the ridge element or higher.
Under such conditions, normal traction is provided. The smoke will normally go away regardless of weather conditions. To prevent leaves from entering the chimney, they put special umbrellas, weather vanes, and in windy places - deflectors, which further improve traction.
Chimney pipe height
If it is not possible to bring the pipe to such a height, they put a smoke exhauster - forced draft is obtained. The fan will not be needed all the time, but in some conditions, when natural draft is not enough, a forced draft saves the situation.
Installation of a sandwich chimney through the wall
There are two ways to lead a smoke tube through a wall. The first option (in the photo on the left) is to raise it indoors closer to the ceiling, and bring it out there. The second is to draw a conclusion at the level of the flue pipe from the boiler. In this case, almost the entire chimney is on the street.
How can I bring a sandwich chimney through the wall
The second option is preferable - it has only one knee, which means that, under equal conditions, traction will be better. Also, with this structure, there is less chance of the formation of soot plugs.
If the flue outlet is not at the back of the stove, but at the top, the installation scheme changes slightly - a 90 ° elbow is added, then a straight section for passing through the wall, and then the same as in other schemes.
The stove itself is placed on a non-combustible base, the wall behind the stove is closed with a non-combustible screen. The easiest way is to fix a sheet of metal on the wall. You can mount on ceramic insulators 2.5-3 cm in height. There will be a layer of air between the sheet of metal and the wall, so the wall will be safe. The second option is to place heat-insulating material under the metal - for example, mineral wool cardboard. Another option is an asbestos sheet (as in the photo).
Preparation of a place for the installation of a furnace and a PPU installed in the wall with a piece of pipe
A hole is made in the wall. Its dimensions are determined by SNiP - the distance from the pipe to non-combustible walls must be at least 250 mm on all sides, and to combustible ones - 450 mm. It turns out a solid hole, especially when it comes to walls made of combustible materials. There is one point with which you can reduce the size of the hole for the passage of the sandwich: make the dimensions according to the norms of non-combustible walls and sheathe the opening with non-combustible material.
An example of organizing the passage of a sandwich pipe through a wall
The opening can be round or square, as long as fire safety standards are maintained. It is easier to make and sheathe square holes, therefore they are more often made.
This is how a pipe passage through a wall sealed with a sheet of metal looks like
A passage unit is inserted into this hole - a box made of non-combustible material. A sandwich chimney pipe is inserted into it, fixed in the center. All gaps are laid with heat-resistant insulation, the hole is closed on both sides with non-combustible material. Usually it is a sheet of metal.
A passage node is inserted from the side of the room. In this case, it is made of minerite, but it can also be metal
One important point: it is necessary to develop a chimney so that there is no junction of two pipes inside the wall. All joints must be visible and serviceable.
Next, you need to make or install a ready-made support bracket that will support the entire weight of the pipe. The design may differ in details, but the main idea is the same - a support platform, which, with the help of stops, transfers weight to the wall.
A similar design can be welded from profile pipe small section 25*25 mm or 25*40 mm.
As you can see, a tee is connected to the pipe that runs through the wall. In the lower part there is a removable glass in which condensate accumulates. Some models have a fitting with a small tap at the bottom. This is even more convenient - you don’t need to remove the glass, you can connect a hose to the fitting, take it into some kind of container (it is very toxic, so you don’t need to drain it near the house) and drain it by simply turning the tap.
Next, the tuba is brought to the required level. Since in this case the distance to the ridge will clearly be more than 3 m, it is possible that the height of the chimney is slightly lower than the ridge - not lower than 10 ° in relation to the horizontal line drawn from the level of the ridge.
Lead the chimney preferably above the ridge
But since this house located in a lowland, to ensure traction, the pipe was raised even higher than the ridge. It was fastened to the wall with stainless steel clamps, with a step of a little more than a meter. On the roof there are stretch marks made of a steel bar with a diameter of 6 mm. To install stretch marks, there are special clamps "with ears" to which stretch marks are attached.
Fastening stretch marks to the chimney from sandwich tubes
Another important point that many people forget about: at the place where the pipe is installed, on the roof, you need to install a snow retainer section, otherwise, in the spring, the pipe can be blown away with snow (if the pipe is not brought out towards the gable, as in the photo).
How to install a chimney through the roof
When removing the chimney from the sandwich pipes through the roof, it is necessary to take into account the location of the floor beams and rafter legs on the roof. It is necessary to guess so that the pipe passes between these elements. The minimum distance from the outer wall of the pipe to the fuel element must be at least 13 cm, and this is provided that the fuel element is protected by insulation. To meet this requirement, the pipe often has to be moved. Do this using two 45° angles.
Offset pipe to pass through the ceiling
Please note that the installation of a sandwich chimney from a solid fuel boiler begins metal pipe without insulation. She is black in the photo above. After it, an adapter is placed on a sandwich, and a chimney with insulation enters the passage unit.
A hole is cut in the ceiling that meets fire regulations - 250 mm from the edge of the pipe, if the ceiling is protected by heat-insulating material. Having cut a hole, its edges are covered with non-combustible heat-insulating material. Minerite is best suited for this (nailed or fastened with wood screws).
Gray material around the perimeter of the hole - minerite
A chimney sandwich pipe is inserted into the resulting box. It should be directed strictly vertically, without the slightest deviation. You can’t fix it rigidly, you can only give direction by installing a few slats that will hold it, but it can move up / down without difficulty. This is necessary, since when heated, its length increases significantly.
The remaining space is filled with basalt wool (check the temperature range). Another option is to pour expanded clay, granular foamed glass. Previously, sand was still covered, but sooner or later, it all woke up through the cracks, so now this option is unpopular. WITH front side all this “beauty” is covered with a stainless steel sheet, under which non-combustible material is placed (between it and the ceiling). Previously, it was asbestos sheet, but since asbestos was recognized as a carcinogen, mineral wool cardboard was used.
There is one more option. Beat the edges of the hole with mineral wool, and then insert the finished stainless steel ceiling-through unit. It immediately has both a box and a decorative stainless screen.
Ready-made ceiling-through node (one of the options)
Having brought the pipe to the attic, they make a hole in the roofing pie. All films at the passage point (vapor barrier and waterproofing) are cut crosswise. The resulting triangles are wrapped and secured with staples from a stapler. So the damage is minimal. The exposed crate is cut so that there is at least 13 cm to the pipe.
How to bring the chimney through the roof - the passage of the ceiling and roof
In the right photo above, the passage through the roof is incorrect - the distance between the pipe and the boards is too small. In a good way, it is necessary to cut them according to the standard, beat them with the same mineralite. You should get something similar to the following photo.
Correct passage of a sandwich chimney through the roof
Master flash for sandwich chimney - rubber cap with flexible "skirt"
The junction of rubber and pipe is sealed with a heat-resistant sealant. The roof surface under the “skirt” is also coated with a sealant.
Tube-mounted master flash
Please note that each connection of the sandwich modules is tightened with a clamp. This is also true for the internal chimney.
Do-it-yourself installation of a sandwich chimney: into the wall, through the roof
In order for the independent installation of a sandwich chimney to be correct and safe, you need to know the rules and fire regulations. How to bring a sandwich pipe through a wall, roof, read the article.
The need to bring the chimney through the wall arises when installing heating equipment in an already built house. Competent selection of design, material, trajectory of the chimney becomes a guarantee of effective space heating. Also an important component of the flawless operation of the heating system is the observance of the installation algorithm established on the basis of practical experience and regulatory documents.
Functionality and design features
The range of optimal chimney length is 5 - 10 meters. An indicator below the minimum value makes traction difficult, and a pipe longer than the designated 10 meters will provoke excessive combustion, increasing fuel consumption.
Since the smoothness of the inner planes of the chimney allows to increase its durability, due to the slight accumulation of soot, consumers are increasingly choosing a single-layer steel pipe that successfully replaces brick counterparts. The installation of the chimney is facilitated if its modern design is used, consisting of two steel pipes nested one inside the other with an insulating layer of stone wool between them.
Such a system has proven its practicality, since negatively acting condensate does not form inside, and the outer surfaces receive little heat.
Making the output of the chimney through the wall with its further installation outside the house, it is necessary to consider the design of the protective box. It is advisable to make it brick, or use drywall, supplemented with refractory thermal insulation.
Three-layer chimneys, the inner cylindrical pipe of which is made of ceramic, followed by a heat-insulating layer and outer blocks made of lightweight concrete, also show high performance.
Basic installation steps
When installing a chimney through a wall, a certain sequence must be observed.
- In the place of the wall where the pipe is planned to pass, there should be no internal communications and wires.
- Marking is made on the wall and a hole of the desired size is prepared.
- A pipe is being installed, which is fixed in the prepared hole. The passage in the wall is laid out with refractory insulating material, and from above it is closed with a casing or plastered.
- The chimney is connected to the heating device by joining a three-section elbow with a tee using a transition piece.
Chimney passage in a frame house
Fasteners designed to fix the chimney to the wall have a step of 60 - 100 cm. After the pipe has been brought to the design height, a cone-shaped element is attached from above, which protects against possible debris. In the gap between the wall and the chimney, a layer of mineral heat insulator is attached, for example, basalt wool. From above, the chimney is also insulated and sheathed with a casing made of fire-resistant and corrosion-resistant materials.
Features of working with wooden walls
When equipping a chimney in a wooden house, it must be borne in mind that here its installation has some features.
When making a passage through the wall, you need to additionally protect the pipe by overlaying it with refractory bricks or asbestos. Such a measure is mandatory according to fire safety standards, and it will also prevent the wood fibers from drying out from heating at the point of contact with the chimney.
Starting the installation, the chimneys are selected from the range of three-layer products, abandoning the single-layer steel chimney, which is very hot. It is recommended to design a horizontal section of small length.
The vertical part should ideally be flat without turns. In the design of the chimney to control the intensity of combustion, there must be gates. If all requirements are met, the heating device will function efficiently in a safe mode.
If the wooden structure has a siding finish, then a gap to the chimney ≥ 15 cm is provided. This is due to the fact that the temperature range regulated by manufacturers for this finishing material ranges from minus 50 degrees to plus fifty degrees. The entire passage is protected by refractory heat-insulating material.
When leading the chimney through the wall, it is recommended to orient it to the side of the gable so as not to make additional holes in the roof. If the heater in the house is located so that it is possible to remove the pipe only from the side where the roof slope is located, then a support post may be needed. The chimney is fixed to it with the help of sliding fasteners.
For boilers with forced draft, it is possible to install just a horizontal pipe, which should be led through a passage in the wall, similar to chimneys that also have a vertical part.
During the construction process, you can install a convenient chimney design in the wall, which is a mine lined with bricks. A pipe attached to a heating device is placed here. This layout saves a lot of space.
If the installation of a universal chimney in the wall is carried out in the partition between the rooms, then it becomes an additional source of light comfortable heat. In order to correctly connect the heating equipment, it is necessary to make a sufficiently spacious passage in the wall of the shaft and install the pipe, joining its horizontal and vertical parts. Stone wool is usually used for insulation.
The upper section of the pipe, coming out at a distance of one and a half meters, measured from the ridge, should rise 0.5 meters above it. If the distance is one and a half meters or more, then the pipe is made at the level of the ridge.
Video: Exiting the boiler chimney pipe through a frame wall
