Making a universal workbench for the workshop with your own hands. Homemade workbench made of wood: description, drawings, photos Detailed drawings carpentry workbench

Since ancient times, skilled craftsmen have sought to equip the workplace as comfortably as possible and, in modern terms, ergonomically, which was considered a guarantee of not only fast and effective work but also security. In this regard, the premises intended for repair and handmade, were filled with all sorts of tables, racks and drawers, the original material for the manufacture of which was wood. Over time, the cheaper metal gradually replaced wood from the construction arena and began to be used for the manufacture of machine tools, metal furniture and various auxiliary equipment, especially relevant in a construction workshop. Since the goods offered by stores often do not meet the specified characteristics, and sometimes they are on a par with industrial equipment, in our article we will share simple tips and tell you how to make wooden workbench with your own hands.

The main purpose and typical characteristics of the workbench

Regardless of its design features, the workbench is a desktop, necessarily characterized by massive dimensions and stability, and designed for processing structures and products with a wide variety of dimensions. Designing carpenter's workbench, it is important to remember that the dimensions of the processed products directly depend on the dimensions of the workbench, while the processing of products is practiced as manually, and with the use of power tools - a drill and an electric planer. A typical layout of a standard carpentry workbench consists of the following elements:

Work surface, for the manufacture of which a massive board is used, the thickness of which is not less than 60 mm. For the manufacture of the lid, experts advise giving preference to hardwood, such as oak or beech, using which you do not have to periodically change the working surface of the workbench, due to the high wear resistance of the material.
A vice designed to hold workpieces. They are mounted on the front surface of the cover. Massive workbenches provide for the installation of several vices, separately designed for fastening small and large parts. Large vices are made of wood, while choosing a vice of small dimensions, it is better to give preference to metal structures.
Bench legs are designed to improve stability general design, which are connected by longitudinal strips. For their manufacture, it is desirable to use soft wood, linden or pine.
In the space under the workbench, on supports, you can install drawers designed for tools and any other work accessories.

Joiner's workbench: types of design

When developing a workbench project, it is important to consider it design features, whether it will be installed permanently in the workshop or will be represented by a mobile structure. If you have opted for a mobile design, the best solution would be to lighten it due to the material used, which should be thinner. The mobile workbench can also be modified with a collapsible table top as well as folding legs. In connection with the listed features, there are three types of workbenches:

Mobile workbench designed for small repair work and manipulations with wood blanks;
Stationary workbench used for processing solid wood blanks and heavy boards. It is easy to manufacture, but "tied" to one place;
A collapsible or “transforming workbench” is convenient with its collapsible design, which facilitates the process of replacing its individual parts, and also increases the mobility of the entire structure. You can learn how to make a retractable workbench in specialized manuals.

Carpentry or locksmith workbench: differences

In addition to the classification presented above, workbenches differ in their purpose. There are carpentry and locksmith workbenches. Since the creation locksmith workbench fraught with a number of difficulties, in this guide we will tell you how to make a carpentry workbench with your own hands.

Dimensions and location of the workbench

In the process of creating a workbench, it is important to choose the right location for it. It should be in close proximity to natural light sources, if any. Local light sources will also not be superfluous. We must not forget about electrical sockets, which should also be close to the workbench. All wires in working area, preferably included in corrugated pipe or box.

Before proceeding with the construction of the workbench, experts recommend determining its final height. To do this, lower your hands down, after which place your palms parallel to the floor. The distance between the floor and the palms is the same desktop height that is most convenient for you. Since home-made workbenches are often designed for a single workplace, the table is 1.5 m long and 0.8 m wide.

How to make a workbench video

How to make a workbench in the garage: selection of materials

The selection of material for the manufacture of a workbench is an important stage of the whole work, which determines the final strength and stability of the structure being constructed. Before you make a carpenter's workbench, let's talk about the rational choice of materials needed to make it. According to experts, for the construction of a workbench, planed timber will be the best material, which is suitable for the manufacture of a frame frame and legs.

Ideal dimensions of planed timber:

for legs - 100x70 mm;
for jumpers - 100x50 mm;

For countertops, it is better to choose boards 5 cm thick, or a solid canvas, for example, an old one. wooden door or chipboard, characterized by a laminated surface. It is important to know that it is better to give preference to hardwoods such as oak, maple and beech.

How to make a workbench table? Sequencing

The manufacture of a workbench includes several stages, the fundamental of which are:

Base assembly;
Tabletop installation;
Installation of equipment on a workbench.

Base assembly

base as structural element workbench, is a wooden frame, the fastening of which is carried out in such a way that the design meets all the requirements of rigidity and stability. For these purposes, it is necessary to provide for the installation of a horizontally located jumper between the legs of the workbench, and in the middle, along the entire length of the structure, it is important to install a drawer. Both the jumpers and the tsarga are fixed at a distance of 40-50 cm from the floor. Subsequently, they can be used not only to strengthen the structure, but also to install shelves and drawers for improvised tools. When constructing the base, the bars are fixed by means of a tenon-groove connection, and in those places where this is not possible, self-tapping screws are used. It is preferable to first prepare the grooves and spikes, according to the existing drawing, and only then glue the joints of the beams with wood glue.

If you're building a stationary workbench, one or more of the frame pieces can be attached to the wall, further strengthening the final structure.

Countertop fabrication and installation

Thinking through the stages of manufacturing a countertop, we must not forget that it should be slightly larger than the base. A massive shield of the previously indicated dimensions is knocked together from previously prepared thick boards, for fastening which long nails are used, driven in with inside boards. Used boards are pre-fitted to each other to prevent debris from entering the existing slots. For the installation of the table top, the use of materials for the manufacture of which pressed chips were used is excluded, since they do not meet the requirements for its stability. Several transverse bars are nailed to the tabletop, for which it is necessary to provide grooves in the base. To these jumpers, with the help of self-tapping screws, horizontally oriented rails are attached, which are needed to slide the drawers.

The tabletop is bolted to the base. To do this, a recess is made in the upper part of the base bars, using a chisel, and holes are drilled in the tabletop for bolts, the heads of which are recessed in the lid by drilling recesses of the appropriate diameter in the tabletop. In order to avoid injuries from falling chips in the process of subsequent work, the countertop is polished several times and covered with drying oil.

Equipment installation

TO installed countertop a vice is attached, for the installation of which recesses in the end face of the tabletop should be provided. In the place where the vise is installed, plywood is attached to the underside of the countertop. When installing a vice, they are first applied, the place of their fastening is marked, and then fixed with nuts and bolts. Remember that the vise should not be located on the edge, which contributes to the displacement of gravity during operation.

In addition to the vise, the classic equipment for the workbench are wooden clamps, a high-power stationary drill, some varieties turning equipment, milling element. In the conditions of a summer residence, it will also be useful to install a grinder and a circular. When installing equipment on a workbench, it is important to consider all the details of convenience and safety, as well as to check the strength of all fasteners. If the equipment is powered by electrical network, it is important to correctly calculate the power of the simultaneously connected equipment, as well as correctly conduct the connection itself.

How to design and make a universal workbench?

This article did not consider in detail the process of manufacturing a metal workbench, and also does not explain how to make an iron workbench in view of the complexity of this process, however, we consider it necessary to consider an option that involves combining a metalwork and carpentry workbenches, which is especially important in conditions country houses and plots.

For this, the same workbench is made, as given in the instructions, however, the area of \u200b\u200bthe working surface is slightly increased. Sometimes this may require strengthening the base through the use of additional frame elements. When the countertop is installed, one half is covered with a sheet of thin stainless steel, which is fixed with self-tapping screws. Ideally, they cover not only the top of the countertop, but also its end elements.

work area for home master, of course, can be purchased at a specialized store. But such a place will not be saturated with authenticity and individuality, it will not convey the character and mood of the owner. Therefore, we suggest that you make a carpentry workbench with your own hands. It is also called locksmith or universal. Get ready, the process is not fast. It is important to choose the right materials, calculate the dimensions, and perform an accurate assembly.

However, we note in advance that even when creating your own carpentry workbench, you are unlikely to be able to make luxurious solid wood furniture on it, especially with the effect of antiquity. Therefore, if you need such pieces of furniture, then we advise you to look at the page http://derevmaster.ru/starinnaya-mebel of the site owned by the Ruslan Koryshko Workshop. Here for many years they have been manufacturing various wooden products for the home and garden.

A carpenter or locksmith processes small items from 1 centimeter and large ones that reach a length of 3 meters. It is inconvenient to mess with such units “on the knee”, the quality of such work is unlikely to be worthy. Therefore, before starting work, any self-respecting carpenter or locksmith will prepare a workplace.

Structurally, this is a table with shelves and tool boxes. A vise is usually placed on the table, which helps to fix the object for further processing.

In appearance, a metalwork (carpentry) table with your own hands can be made:

mobile. It is easy to move and does not take up much space. But it is not intended for storing tools either, the working area is small;

The mobile workbench takes up little space, but is inconvenient to use

stationary. Installed in workshops, garages, specially equipped rooms. Made from steel or wood. Cannot be moved or disassembled. Plenty of storage space for tools, wide work area;
modular. Assembled from several parts. It is made higher or lower, narrower or wider, shorter or longer at the request of the owner. Takes up a lot of space. Inconvenient to use, according to professionals.

If you need a metalwork (carpentry) table for regular work within the same room, then the best choice- fixed structure. It consists of the following parts:

support. These are, in fact, vertical and horizontal bars that hold the countertop, equipment;

The support of the workbench must be strong enough to support the weight of the worktop and tools.

work area (tabletop) or workbench. Grooves, recesses are applied to it. They are needed to fix the item that will be processed. The tabletop is massive, strong, reliable;
vise, box. They press the object to the surface, which facilitates the work. The optimal number of vices on one table is two;
shelves. Used to store equipment.

The following video will tell about the variety of workbenches:

What will be useful?

At home, it is easier (to assemble a metal structure, you will need a welding machine and skills) to assemble a structure made of wood - beech, hornbeam or oak. They are considered the most durable and wear-resistant.

Expensive material (from 3 thousand rubles per running meter) is needed for the countertop. Savings in this case will lead to an annual (or more frequent) replacement of the surface.

Oak, hornbeam or beech are exploited for up to 10 years. For support use pine or linden.

The tabletop is best made from beech, hornbeam, oak. These are the most durable and wear-resistant materials

In order to assemble a locksmith with your own hands, you will need:

plywood 2 centimeters thick, measuring 2.5 by 1.5 meters. The smoother the sheet, the more attractive the working area looks;
a wooden array 5-6 centimeters thick, 1.5 meters long, 0.75 meters wide;
4 beams 1 meter high, 10 centimeters wide, 10 centimeters long;
8 bars 70 centimeters high, 6 centimeters wide, 6 centimeters long;
two-meter board for shelves.

Equipment:

drill;
saw;
clamps;
quick-drying glue;
level;
bolts and nuts;
self-tapping screws;
square.

In some cases, a tarlep may come in handy. This indispensable tool to hold items.

Manufacturing steps

Paradoxically, in order to make a simple carpenter's table DIY, no drawings required. We make a folding universal workbench with our own hands step by step:

Let's get a table. The plywood sheet must be divided into 2 parts. The dimensions of each of them will be 1.25 by 0.75 meters. This is the base of the table. Now 2 parts are interconnected with superglue. One is placed on top of the other, between them is glue. This hardens the surface. Plywood is a rather fragile material, so they put it in two, and sometimes even three layers. To prevent the parts from moving before they are fixed in one place, a load of about 30 kilograms is placed on them. For additional fixation, the sheets are fastened with clamps, they are removed a day after the plywood is fastened.
The plywood base is laid on a wooden array. Thus, the array is protected from negative influences. various tools and strengthen it. Sometimes (this is not necessary) pieces of plywood are also glued around the perimeter of the array. Their thickness is equal to the thickness of the array plus the plywood base.
Let's assemble the base (frame). 4 beams 1 x 0.1 x 0.1 meters are vertical legs. As the lower and upper ties between the legs (it is necessary for the stability of the structure), 8 bars with dimensions of 0.7 x 0.06 x 0.06 meters will serve. The area where the screed and the leg are interconnected with screws or bolts (at the discretion of the master) must be treated with super-glue.
A tabletop is installed on the bed. The parts are fastened together with self-tapping screws, the seams are strengthened with superglue, bolts and nuts.
A board is placed on the lower ties, which is adjusted in size, they do the same with the top tie, two spacious shelves are obtained where it is convenient to store tools. The board is attached to the screeds with self-tapping screws. The metalwork (carpenter's) table is ready.

This is the simplest locksmith workbench, dimensions can be changed according to the needs of a particular craftsman. A vise is placed on the surface. They are fixed with self-tapping screws or bolts. Do-it-yourself carpentry vise for a workbench is made from the following parts:

support;
moving part;
metal guides;
lead screw;
knobs for rotation.

But still, it is easier to purchase a vice in a specialized store. It takes time, expensive equipment and professional skills to machine parts.

In order to make a workbench with a complex design with your own hands, drawings will be needed. What to consider when drawing a do-it-yourself locksmith workbench drawing:

compartments that will be located in the cabinet of the table;
nests in order to put limiters holding long objects;
additional vise;
table setting.

Drawing examples:

Drawing of a workbench with an area for storing tools

Drawing of the simplest workbench

Operating rules

Any carpentry (locksmith) workbench will last a long time if the following rules for its use are observed:

protect from moisture. The tree quickly absorbs liquid, swells and cracks;
the table must be varnished before commissioning. At least the simplest. The price for a can of varnish in a hardware store is from 200 rubles. Varnish will increase the life of the workbench by 2-3 times;
regularly clean from dirt;
put tools away after use;
wipe up spilled chemical liquids, oil to prevent premature wear of the countertop;
if the table is stationary, then it should be in one place. It is not advisable to constantly move it, the support will quickly loosen.

Finally

The main thing is correctly calculated dimensions. If you make a locksmith table with your own hands, the drawings are drawn up only in strict accordance with the dimensions. It is important that the table is not too low or high, narrow or wide. It must match the parameters of a particular user.

Think about quality lighting. An excellent option in this case is fluorescent lamps.

You can also learn how to make a carpentry workbench with your own hands from the following video:

Every home craftsman can make a carpentry workbench with his own hands. It takes a lot of time for this work, but the benefits of a well-equipped workplace cover both labor costs and investments in building material. In this article you will find complete information on the independent construction of workbenches for carpentry.

Carpentry workbench - workplace optimization

Comfortable working surface useful to any craftsman. A carpenter needs a well-equipped work area more than other specialists. After all, he will have to deal with large-sized workpieces, the length of which reaches 3 meters, and in this case he cannot do without a well-designed workspace. Even a simplified folding workbench allows you to process timber or boards and assemble products from the resulting blanks. A large tabletop with stops makes it possible to fix the lumber in any position, processing not only the surfaces, but also the edges of the timber or board. A special vise will help fix the workpiece during sawing, drilling or joining several elements.

In addition, you can store parts of future products, tools and all sorts of household trifles in drawers and on the shelves of the workbench. Moreover, not only a carpentry version made of wood, but also a metal workbench, assembled on the basis of steel corners, can be turned into a convenient storage. At the same time, a master who is not too familiar with construction can make a carpentry workbench with his own hands, streamlining and optimizing the space in the working room. To do this, you will need general drawings or an understanding of the design of the workbench, Construction Materials and step by step assembly instructions. You can find all of this below.

Varieties and arrangement of workbenches for carpenters

In modern carpentry, only three schemes for the design of workbenches are used. First, mobile portable design, which can be installed even on the balcony. Such a model is also useful for those craftsmen who want to get a universal workbench for metalwork and carpentry. The main advantage of this option is small size, the main disadvantage is a small storage area. You can't put all the tools in such a table.

Secondly, a stationary workbench is an option for a full-fledged workshop. To accommodate this model, you need a spacious room, but it will fit into large garage. This workbench can be both wooden and steel - it is possible to assemble any structure, because it does not need to be moved. The main advantage of the model is its wide functionality, multiplied by an extensive storage space. The main disadvantage is the size and the need for a large amount of building materials.

Thirdly, modular design - workbenches of this type occupy an intermediate position between stationary and mobile options. The model structure allows you to build up and shorten the carpentry table, legs and other elements. Therefore, the main advantage of this option is the combination of optimal dimensions and functionality. And the main disadvantage is the complicated design. Build Modular metal workbench it’s not so easy with your own hands, and you may have problems with a tree.

As a result, it is the stationary version that should be recognized as the optimal model for self-construction, since the mobile one does not provide all the benefits, and the modular one is too complicated during assembly. At the same time, regardless of belonging to one of the varieties, any workbench contains the following structural elements:

Support (frame, frame) - a system of vertical and horizontal beams that hold the tabletop, workpieces and tools.
Work surface (tabletop) - in the language of professionals, this element is called a workbench. It makes all the necessary grooves and recesses for the stops, which are useful for fixing the workpieces being processed. Therefore, such a board must be massive and reliable.
The front vise and box are essentially huge clamping blocks that compete with clamps. They fix the workpieces at an angle to the plane of the desktop, pressing them against the side edges of the tabletop. Moreover, a folding workbench has only one vice, and a stationary one has at least a couple of clamping blocks.
Shelves are storage areas that are located under the countertop.

And all these parts, with the exception of some parts of the clamping block made of metal (screws and nuts), are assembled from wood, which simplifies the selection of structural materials for building a workbench.

What materials are needed for assembly - getting ready to work

You will be able to build a carpentry or locksmith workbench with your own hands only if you get the following materials:

Plywood sheet with a thickness of 18-20 millimeters and overall dimensions of 2.5 × 1.25 meters. And try to choose a perfectly flat sheet, without bubbles and dips on the surface - it will go to the countertop.
Bar 10 × 10 and 6 × 6 centimeters. The frame will be assembled from these elements, therefore, we need about 4 meters of "ten" (for legs and crossbars) and at least three meters of "six" (for strengthening elements). At the same time, try to choose a timber without knots and cracks.
Boards 2 meters long - they will come in handy during the assembly of the countertop. And upon completion of them you can.

In addition, we will need the following tools: a drill with feather and conventional drills, a circular saw (circular saw), clamps, glue Moment(on wood), square, level, bolts with nuts and furniture screws with corrosion protection. After all these materials and tools are purchased and brought to the place of placement and assembly, you can build a workbench out of wood with your own hands, based on our step-by-step instructions.

Do-it-yourself assembly - step by step instructions

Before you do, try to read this instruction from beginning to end, scrolling through all the assembly steps described below in your head. If you understand the whole procedure, then independent production workbench will take you a minimum of personal time. Moreover, our step-by-step instructions are designed for people with minimal experience in carpentry. Well, the assembly process itself is as follows.

At the first stage, we assemble the table. For this plywood sheet shorten to 1.52 meters circular saw and divide into two parts. As a result, two blanks with dimensions of 1.52 × 0.61 meters remain in the hands of the master. They will serve as the basis for the countertop. And the rest of 0.98 × 1.25 will be useful to us in the future. The next step is gluing the array of the workbench table from two plywood blanks. To do this, you need to lubricate their surfaces with glue and, having folded the plywood boards, tighten them with clamps, and a 30-kilogram load can be placed on the central part. Moreover, three 1.5-meter boards must be placed under the clamps, providing a snug fit when placed along the long edge of the sheet.

In addition, it is necessary to take into account the fact that when gluing plywood sheets must be connected by convex sides (when superimposed on each other), otherwise the entire array will turn into an arc, which is undesirable. Next, we move on to reinforcing the 36mm glued array. To do this, we need to cut strips 15 centimeters wide from the remnants of the plywood panel and glue them around the perimeter, with reverse side countertops. The end result should be a 54mm thick table made up of three 18mm layers of plywood. Moreover, the amplifier strips will play the role of stiffeners.

After that, we cut the array to the dimensions of 1.5 × 0.6 meters. This step will allow you to trim the ends, eliminating the overlays and protrusions that formed during the assembly of the countertop from three layers of plywood. The trimming itself is carried out with a circular saw at a low tool feed. The circular paper must be driven very slowly over the plywood, otherwise you will get torn edges. The next stage is the assembly of the vertical elements of the frame. To do this, we saw a beam of 10 × 10 centimeters into four segments 0.9 meters long. We get vertical supports. And as prolegs (lower screed between vertical beams) and tsarg (upper screed) we will use a 6 × 6 cm beam, cutting out the corresponding grooves in the legs. The attachment points of the prolegs and the tsarg should be smeared with glue and reinforced with bolts or self-tapping screws.

Next, we must install the vertical supports at the location of the workbench and assemble the entire frame by pulling them together using horizontal longitudinal ties. They can be made from a beam of 6 × 6 centimeters, fixed in a spike or overlap, on bolts or self-tapping screws.

We will lay shelves from 1.5-meter boards on the lower screeds, and a countertop on the upper ones. Therefore, before attaching the screeds, we must track the vertical and horizontal of the assembled frame. Otherwise, the table will be tilted. The tabletop is fastened to the frame with 8 mm self-tapping screws, the heads of which must be sunk into the holes drilled pen drill. Before fastening, the table is pulled to the upper longitudinal screeds and drawers with clamps.

This completes the assembly of the table, and we can proceed to the installation of the vise. Moreover, not everyone can make a carpentry vise for a workbench with their own hands. Therefore, we suggest that beginners pay attention to ready-made models, the installation of which takes place in the following sequence: we fasten a fixed vise jaw to the end of the table, and fix a threaded element on it. We pass two threaded guides through the holes in the movable sponge, screw them into the fixed sponge. We insert the handles into the heads of the guides, by rotating which you can move the movable part of the vise to the stationary one.

Once the vise assembly is completed, you can use the workbench as you wish. Moreover, round or rectangular holes for stops can be cut into the countertop as needed, positioning them as you like.

The general principle of the development of material processing technology from prehistoric times to the present day is how to make details on inaccurate equipment for more accuracy. And it all started with a workbench, its prototypes are found during excavations of Stone Age settlements. It is quite possible to build a workbench, and a full-fledged one, with your own hands, and this will not only save a significant amount, but also simplify, facilitate work and improve its result.

Three mistakes

Amateurs, sometimes, judging by their designs, very experienced, knowledgeable and diligent, sometimes make workbenches for themselves, on which, figuratively speaking, a tank can be smashed with a sledgehammer. They take a lot of time and labor, and hardly less money than a good branded amateur workbench. Repetition in the design for own use of industrial prototypes designed for intensive work in 3 shifts and a static load of more than a ton, with a service life of 20 years or more, is one of the typical mistakes in the development of workbenches of our own design.

The second is the neglect of vibrations. Not a clearly felt “play” or “recoil”, but a small tremor that significantly complicates the work and reduces its quality. Vibrations are especially strong in workbenches on a metal bed.

Third - repeat carpentry or locksmith workbenches; perhaps with some tweaks to your liking. Meanwhile, there are many designs of workbenches for home / amateur work of a different nature. There are workbenches that are more or less specialized or, on the contrary, universal, temporary from improvised materials, etc.

In this article we will figure out how to make a workbench taking into account these errors, firstly, simpler and cheaper according to the range of needs and / or hobbies of the craftsman. Second, how to make a workbench general purpose or universal for special conditions use - in a cramped garage, for carpentry at a construction site from improvised trash, home for fine precision work, for children.

About universal workbenches

Among branded products, sometimes very expensive, you can find "universal" workbenches in the form of a carpenter's workbench with a lid without a tray, a complete bench vise on a wooden cushion, and a clamp for installing them, like the one in the photo:

“Universal” prefabricated workbench

This is the wrong decision, not only because wooden table top from carpentry spoils. The main thing that is bad here is the technological fluids used in metal processing - oil, kerosene, etc. The wood impregnated with them becomes much more combustible. Self-ignition is also possible; remember, it is strictly forbidden to accumulate oiled rags in production. Approach to the design of countertops (boards, covers) universal workbench another is needed based on what kind of work it is mainly used for - fine or rough, see below.

work bench

In the West, amateur / home workbenches with a type-setting worktop framed by a side are widespread. Drawings of such a "working bench" are given in fig. Under the locksmith, the lid is covered with a sheet of steel 1.5-2 mm thick and a vice is placed on the pillow.

The workbench dampens vibrations well; You can make it from pine or spruce. But the design is complicated, it is inconvenient to work with lengthy materials and furniture on such a workbench. Therefore, we will first look at how to make the most common carpentry workbench, then garage and metalwork. Next, we will try to combine them into a universal workbench and see what we can come up with on this basis for special needs.

The composition of the workbench

The workbench of "our" type (conditionally, since it is impossible to establish its origin exactly) consists of:

Underwork (in carpentry workbenches), or bed (in metalwork), ensuring the stability of the entire unit and the ergonomics of the workplace.
Covers, box-shaped or in the form of a tray, giving the work area the necessary rigidity.
Shelves; possibly with a tray, nests, and stops on which work operations are performed.
The apron on which the tool is hung. The apron is not a mandatory accessory of the workbench, it can hang on the wall or be replaced by a pedestal, rack, etc.

Note: workbench height approx. 900 mm. The length and width are selected according to the place of installation and the type of work within 1200-2500 and 350-1000 mm, respectively.

A lid with a shelf is most often made at the same time, one-piece, and is simply called a lid, benchtop or tabletop. To dampen vibrations, the shelf is always made on the basis (bed, substrate) of wood. In a locksmith's workbench, the bed is covered with a steel sheet of 2 mm thick and can be made of softwood. Its overall strength is sufficient, and the steel tire protects the tree from local damage and ingress of technical fluids. In a carpenter's workbench, a bed made of high-quality (without knots, strands, and other defects) solid small-layer wood (oak, beech, hornbeam, elm, walnut) serves at the same time as a shelf; -layer construction, see below.

The traditional construction of the bench, on the contrary, is collapsible from the same wood as the joiner's shelf. This comes from the master covens of the past, who transported their equipment from customer to customer on a cart. It is from the bed / underbench that you should start developing your workbench no worse, but simpler than traditional ones.

Bed: metal or wood?

A stationary wooden workbench has advantages over that on a steel frame, not only in lower cost and labor intensity. Wood, firstly, is not plastic. A workbench on a wooden base can be broken, but if the wood is used seasoned and impregnated, it will never buckle. Secondly, the tree perfectly dampens vibrations. The foundations of your buildings are not reinforced vibration-absorbing ones, like workshops at a factory, are they? And the overall strength and stability of the frame home workbench coniferous commercial wood of ordinary quality will quite provide.

The design of the wooden frame of the workbench made of boards 120x40 is shown on the left in fig. Permissible static load - 150 kgf; dynamic vertically down for 1 s - 600 kgf. Corner posts (legs) are assembled on self-tapping screws 6x70 in a zigzag (snake) with an indent from the edge of 30 mm and a step of 100-120 mm. Double-sided fastening; snakes on both sides of the package are mirrored. Intermediate support beams are fastened with steel corners on self-tapping screws; edge - with pairs of self-tapping screws at the spikes of the racks and, outside, with corners.

If a beam of 150x50 or (180…200)x60 is available, the design can be simplified, as shown in the center in fig. The bearing capacity will increase to 200/750 kgf. And from a bar 150x150, 150x75 and (180 ... 200) x60, you can build a frame that can carry 450 kgf in statics and 1200 in dynamics, on the right in Fig.

Note: any of these beds is suitable for both carpentry and locksmith workbenches. A box-shaped cover is placed on it under the carpentry (see below), and under the locksmith a tray from a 60x60x4 corner with welded 4 mm strips above the intermediate beams. A wooden pillow is placed in the tray and covered with steel, also see below.

If there is no welding

Solid wood workbench, no need for welding work for its manufacture, you can do according to the scheme on the next. rice. The “chip” here is in the tabletop, glued from a 75x50 bar and fastened with ties. If the beam is oak, then permissible load- 400/1300 kgf. Corner posts - timber 150x150; the rest is timber 150x75.

Metal

It happens the other way around: metal is more accessible than wood, and there is welding. Then the workbench table for a load of 100/300 kgf can be assembled according to the drawing on the left in fig. Materials - corner 35x35x3 and 20x20x2. Drawers are galvanized. The disadvantage is that it is impossible to make an opening at the bottom for the legs, the structure will lose its ability to carry a dynamic load.

Under a load of 200/600, a more convenient metal workbench is suitable according to the scheme at the top right of a professional pipe 50x50 (corner posts), 30x30 (other vertical parts) and a corner 30x30x3. The plank cushion of both workbenches is laid only across (bottom right) from tongue-and-groove boards (120 ... 150) x40.

Shelf - steel 2 mm. The shelf is attached to the pillow with 4x (30 ... 35) self-tapping screws, a pair from each edge of each board, and along the extreme boards - with a step of (60 ... 70) mm. Only in this design, the workbench will show the specified load-bearing capacity.

These workbenches are already universal: under the carpentry, the lid is turned over with the wooden side up or adapted, as described below. The locksmith's vise is mounted on a wooden cushion, but is not fastened with a clamp. A collet anchor under the M10-M14 bolt is driven into the vice cushion from below, and a through hole is drilled under it in the cover. A washer from 60x2 is placed under the bolt head. This solution is convenient because it is possible to use inexpensive non-rotating vise.

For carpentry

The lid of the carpentry workbench, in contrast to the metalwork, is tightly attached to the workbench and is box-shaped, for general rigidity. The best option fastenings for a non-separable workbench - steel corners and self-tapping screws. Podverstache can also be a steel bed from those described above.

How a traditional carpentry workbench is arranged is shown in pos. And rice; accessories to it in pos. B. The workbench (in this case, this is a separate device) is used to work with a long length. The emphasis in its groove is made from a wedged trimming of the board, see below. It is advisable to drill a longitudinal row of holes in the board and fasten it into the sockets with sunken cone-head bolts. The traditional construction of a carpentry underbench is shown in pos. G, but - see above.

The cover of the carpentry workbench can be made cheaper by making a 2-layer, pos. Q. Then high-quality hardwood boards will only be needed for a shelf. They lay it down, laying the boards with “peas” of annual layers alternately up and down, in order to avoid warping. The flooring of the shelf is first rallied with PVA glue or carpentry, tightly squeezing with a clamp or wrapping it with a cord; put on a pillow on the same glue. The skirt of the lid is assembled separately with glue and through spikes (insert at pos. B) and is attached to the pillow-shelf package with self-tapping screws.

Vice for carpentry

All-wood carpentry vices, front and chair, are now almost completely replaced by a vice with a metal screw clamp, pos. D; their device is shown in pos. E. Some remarks are needed here.

First, you need to put 2-3 steel washers under the head of the clamping screw, otherwise it will quickly eat through the pillow (4x4x1 cm piece of wood). Second - if the nut is not custom-made and not purchased shaped, then get at least for a while a set of taps for the thread used. In this case, do not try to use too thick a screw for evenness and smoothness of the clamp; M12-M16 is enough.

The nut of a home-made clamping pair is welded onto a base with a diameter of 60 mm or more, square, from 70x70 mm. It is not necessary to sink it into the clamp pad, so it is less likely that the nut will be torn off when clamping. But the thread will ugly lead away from welding, you can’t drive it away with a bolt. The thread of the welded nut will need to be tapped according to the full scheme, as when cutting: the first tap - the second - the third (if included in the kit).

Note: the nut welded on the base, before the passage of the thread, must be allowed to rest for 2 hours so that the residual deformations “subside”.

Vice and carpentry for a locksmith

The vise on the locksmith's workbench is installed in the corner (see the inset in the figure), so that as much as possible of the dynamic loads during metal processing falls vertically on the corner post. Location cross beams and intermediate vertical racks of a workbench with a stationary vice, it is desirable to make it a little asymmetrical, placing them at smaller intervals towards the corner with a vice. The installation of the vice is also carried out starting from the corner:

A collet anchor is driven into the wooden corner post under the mounting bolt, and a high nut or threaded sleeve is welded into the metal post (attachment point 1 at the bottom left in the figure);
If the fastener is welded, thread with taps, as in a homemade carpenter's vice nut, see above;
Put a vice temporarily on 1 bolt and mark holes for fixing points 2, 3 and 4 in place;
The vise is removed and drilled through holes 2, 3 and 4;
Put a vise on the bolts 1, 2 and 3;
For mounting on bolt 4, put under the cover (tabletop) a strut U from wooden beam from 60x60 or professional pipes from 40x40. It is not necessary to fix the jib, but it should rest from under the bottom against the upper frame (strap) of the bed, but not against the tabletop!
Attach the vise finally to the bolt 4.

Note: stationary power tools are also fixed in the same way, for example. emery.

Under the carpentry

A locksmith's workbench can also be adapted for carpentry work if you drill 2-4 pairs of holes in the tabletop for fixing the carpentry stop (on the right and in the center in the figure). In this case, round bosses are screwed to the bottom surface of the stop with self-tapping screws; corks from plastic bottles work well, they withstand tight fitting many times.

Garage workbench

A workbench in the garage cannot be made optimal in terms of ergonomics of the width of the workplace - the dimensions of a standard box 4x7 m with a car standing in it do not allow. For a long time already, through trial and error, the width of the garage workbench was determined at 510 mm: it is quite convenient to turn between it and the hood, and you can more or less work. A narrow workbench under a heavy load (for example, a motor taken out for bulkhead) is unstable, so it is made attached to the wall. Often - angular, this increases stability, but any wall workbench"Calls back" stronger than a workbench-table of the same design

The diagram of the device of one section of the garage workbench is given in fig. In this design, an ingenious method of additional damping of vibrations is used: cells of the frames of the cover and the lower shelf of the edge farthest from the corner of different sizes. The accuracy of the installation of the crossbars is +/- 1 cm. For the same purpose, the cover and the lower shelf are made of L Chipboard thickness 32 mm and covered with linoleum instead of steel. For garage work, its durability is sufficient; replaced without difficulty.

Fastening to the walls - self-tapping screws from 8 mm or bolts from M8 with a pitch of 250-350 mm. Deepening into a stone wall 70-80 mm; in wooden 120-130 mm. Propylene dowels are placed under the screws in the stone wall; for bolts - collet anchors.

More for the garage

Another version of the garage workbench is already on the wall, and on the wall, on the left in fig. It can only be mounted on stone walls. Bench board folding 2-layer; each layer of plywood 10-12mm. Opening under the machine with a stepped inner edge. In this case, a “milling cutter” means a mini-drilling machine with a movable rotary table and a workpiece clamp. The design is convenient in that the chips fall immediately onto the floor.

If your car is something like a Daewoo or Chery with a 3-cylinder engine, and the garage is very small, then you can put a folding mini workbench with a lifting table top in it, on the right in the figure; he will fit in the house for fine workmanship(electronics, precision mechanics). The tabletop is suspended on a piano hinge, the legs are on card hinges. For folding, the legs are tucked under the tabletop (it would be useful to tie them with a leg), and the tabletop is lowered.

Note: for a cramped garage with an ordinary city car, a folding workbench-box may be optimal, see the video below.

Video: folding workbench box

Home station wagon

At home, they are engaged in smaller, but painstaking technical creativity: soldering, modeling, watchmaking, artistic sawing plywood, etc. For fine fine work, a universal workbench is suitable, the drawings of which and its accessories are given in fig. The resistance of the work surface and its vibration absorption in this case are not as important as evenness, smoothness and some adhesion (“stickiness” of parts), so the table top is covered with linoleum. Locksmith vices for this workbench need small, with screw clamping.

More about plywood

In fact, it is undesirable to work with metal “roughly” on plywood, because. she calls back well. If, however, the pillow of the board of the locksmith's workbench is nevertheless made of plywood, then a frame (frame) must also be glued to its bottom on the PVA, also made of plywood, see fig. Then it is desirable to cover the upper (working side) first with unlined linoleum, and then lay steel on it.

To the rising shift

Another case where making a workbench out of plywood is justified is a student's workbench for a child. Pedagogical considerations play a role here: let him learn to feel the material and not to beat for nothing, but to work carefully. For the same purpose, the masters of the past deliberately gave students a bad instrument.

Workbenches in the country

When a country house or other lung wooden structure still under construction, there is no time for bench wisdom, you need at least something on which you can perform simple carpentry work. For such a case, you can quickly put together a carpentry workbench for giving from improvised materials, on the left in fig. The design is remarkable in that it clearly and fully embodies the principle: we do good things with bad equipment.

For subsequent work on the arrangement of the dacha, a mini-workbench is useful, on the right in fig. With a minimum consumption of material and an extremely simple design, it is stable enough for ordinary carpentry work in all respects, because. the middle of the workbench is supported by a pair of struts. If you put them on bolts, the workbench will turn out to be collapsible and stand in the pantry from weekend to weekend. For disassembly, after releasing the struts, the spacer is removed with them, and the legs are tucked under the board. Finally, for a summer residence, inhabited permanently or all summer, with a master owner, by the way, you will have a more complex, but fully functional folding workbench, see the video below.

This carpentry workbench has a sturdy frame, a solid work surface and multiple compartments for easy storage of tools and fixtures. You will make the main structure with your own hands in two days, and you will gradually add various useful additions.

Tools for the job

To process solid wood and sheet materials, you will need a tool:

Hacksaw.
Electroplaner.
The saw is circular.
Grinder machine.
Drill and drills.
Clamps.
Screwdriver.
Pencil.
Square.
Roulette.
Brush.

Carpenter's workbench frame

Take a flat pine boards without large knots with a section of 50x150 mm. Dry the raw lumber: the lower the moisture content of the boards, the less likely the structure will warp. The considered carpentry workbench is designed for comfortable work the master is 170–180 cm tall. To change the height of the structure, make the legs higher or lower.

Table 1 - list of frame parts

Name	Finished dimensions, mm	Material	Quantity
Name		Material	Quantity
leg detail
bottom spacer
Top spacer
cross prog
Cover crossbar
Longitudinal proleg
Longitudinal side
Bottom shelf
Countertop spacer

All elements of the base of the carpentry workbench are paired, so mark two parts of the same length on a board 150 mm wide at once.

Saw all wooden blanks along the length, with the exception of spacers: short ones are more convenient to cut already planed, and long ones should be sawn off later “in place”.

Measure the width of the board, subtract the thickness of your circular saw blade, and divide the result in half. Set the calculated size on the measuring scale and make sure that the saw blade is perpendicular. Spread the boards exactly in the middle.

Sharpen the details and finish them sandpaper medium grit.

File the bottom spacers and sand the ends. After cleaning the surfaces of dust, apply glue to the small prong and to the end of the leg.

Squeeze the parts with a clamp, wipe off the squeezed out glue and drill holes with a countersink drill.

Fasten the blanks with screws 6.0x70. Prepare the rest of the legs of the carpentry workbench frame.

Bevel the bottom ends to reduce the chance of wood splitting when the workbench is moved.

Prepare for gluing the joints of the legs with the longitudinal prongs. Fasten the parts with screws, setting a right angle.

Screw all four legs into place.

Place the halves of the frame and the longitudinal sides on the floor, measure the length of the upper spacers.

File the parts and fix with glue and screws.

Gather on flat surface the top frame of the carpenter's workbench. Fasten the bars with wood glue and 6.0x80 mm screws, drilling pilot holes for them.

Gather bottom harness workbench, I use clamps and auxiliary boards for convenience.

Put the top frame in place and align the entire structure. Connect the frame parts with screws.

cut out sheet material 16 mm thick lower shelf and fix it on the bars

Workbench for carpentry work

Use sheets of MDF, chipboard or plywood 16–20 mm thick for the workbench cover. Glue the plates in two layers and get a countertop with a thickness of 32–40 mm.

Drawing and arrangement of the cover of the workbench: 1 - edge strips (birch, maple); 2 - working surface (solid fiberboard); 3 - carrier plate (chipboard, plywood or MDF).

For the tabletop you can take chipboard sheets left over from unwanted furniture. For example, the walls of a wardrobe are suitable. Take them as a basis and add small pieces so that the lid of the carpentry workbench turns out to be 670x1940 mm in size.

Place narrow slabs closer to the back wall and to the center of the workbench. Place large sheets in top layer countertops. Glue the cut blanks.

Fasten the sheets with self-tapping screws, deepening them into the countersunk holes. Trim the edges with a hand-held circular saw at a distance of 20 mm from the edge.

Align the tabletop with the frame and secure with screws.

Cut the slats for the edge trims. Saw off 45° bevels and cut the planks to length. Put a piece of fiberboard on top of the workbench, add a flat panel on top and fasten it all with clamps.

This makes it easier to attach the pads. Align the ends with the edges of the worktop and press the rail against the panel - the top plane will be flush with the workbench cover. While holding the plank with one hand, drill pilot holes and secure the parts with screws.

Move the fixture to the other side and install the remaining pads. Process the planks with a grinder.

Drill a hole in the corner of the board so that the fiberboard can be easily pushed out of the recess when replacing it.

Clean the surfaces of dust and cover the wooden parts of the frame with wood stain. Lay the fiberboard in the recess of the lid. If you are using pieces of material, then fix them with double-sided tape. Install a carpenter's vise on the workbench.

Drawers for storing tools in the carpenter's table

Filling the space under the lid of the carpentry workbench, use modular principle. Individual blocks are easier to make and more convenient to later change when space is needed for a new tool. There will be a certain overspending of material, but the mass of the workbench will increase and its stability will be enough to work with power tools.

Scheme of organization of storage places: 1 - box full extension; 2 - roomy plywood box; 3 - container made of chipboard; 4 - wide box; 5 - compartment for portable tool box; 6 - a place for cases and blanks.

Use drawers from old furniture

Choose boxes that are suitable in size from unnecessary desk or chest of drawers.

Sign wooden elements and carefully separate them. Clean the spikes and lugs from the glue.

Cut the planks to width, removing worn corners and cracked grooves. If the original bottom of the box is flimsy, prepare thicker plywood or fiberboard. Make new grooves on the circular saw.

Assemble the box "dry", adjust the parts if necessary. Clean the surfaces and glue the structure. Use mounting brackets to accurately assemble right angles.

When the glue dries, sand the corners and sides of the drawer, securing it for ease of use.

Prepare the guide rails and calculate the dimensions of the module.

Block calculation for three drawers

File the bottom, top and side panels. Fasten the guide rails with screws.

Assemble the panels into a module and test the movement of the boxes. Place the block inside the workbench, placing props under it.

Drill pilot holes, countersink and tighten self-tapping screws. Fasten the chipboard to the top rails and to the legs of the workbench.

Install the front pads on the drawers. Having marked the location of the case, grab it with one screw. Insert the box into place and adjust the position of the panel. Carefully remove the drawer and tighten the rest of the screws.

Fasten the remaining overlays - the module with wide drawers is ready.

Carpentry table compartment for portable drawer

The middle module is made to the full height of the workbench to increase the rigidity of the carpentry workbench. For the case, take a chipboard 16 mm thick and cut out two sides, a bottom and a lid.

Housing of the middle module: 1 - frame diagram; 2 - side wall; 3 - bottom and top panels.

Attach the guide rails to the sidewalls, assemble the frame with screws and install close to the right block.

Prepare the details for the drawer.

Drawings of the elements of the box: 1 - long wall; 2 - short wall; 3 - bottom; 4 - front pad; 5 - rail.

With a circular saw, select the grooves in the walls, which can be done with a regular disk. Set the cutting depth to 6 mm and the width to 8 mm. Run all four parts. slide longitudinal stop 2 mm saw blade and make a trial cut. Check the groove and adjust the stop if necessary. Run the rest of the blanks.

Assemble the module and install rails on the bottom to protect chipboard edges from chipping and providing a more “smooth” ride.

Fasten the front panel with screws and put the drawer in place.

How to make modules with convenient drawers

The arrangement of the housings of these modules is identical to the previous designs. The drawer placed on roller guides is manufactured taking into account the mounting clearance, so its width will be less inner size housings by 26 mm (for common rails with a thickness of 12 mm).

The device of the module and the details of the box: 1 - assembly diagram; 2 - back and front walls; 3 - front panel; 4 - bottom; 5 - side walls.

Before assembling the housing, fasten the restrictive wooden slats and metal guides.

Scheme of mounting guides on the walls of the case.

Fix the finished module under the cover of the workbench.

To install the rails on the drawer, unsnap the latches and pull out the small rails.

Fasten the pieces to the walls. Determine the required distance from the edge to the guide yourself based on the specific design and a gap of 10 mm between the wall of the box and the top panel of the frame.