The final chord of the bathroom renovation is the installation of plumbing fixtures. If desired, this part of the work is quite realistic to do on your own, without resorting to plumbers. Install modern toilet much simpler than a Soviet-style product.
From this material you will learn how to properly install a wall-mounted (hanging) or floor-standing toilet at home with your own hands, you can study detailed instructions and a training video for installation.
Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare tools and materials. What do you need to install besides a new toilet? You will need:
- impact drill or hammer drill;
- drill (the diameter of the drill is selected depending on the diameter of the fasteners);
- if the installation is on tile- tile drill;
- hammer;
- chisel;
- screwdrivers;
- set of wrenches;
- wrench;
- putty knife;
- retractable knife;
- marker or pencil;
- roulette.
It is also highly advisable to have protective goggles to protect your eyes from dust.
Additionally, you will need:
- silicone sealant with a gun or in a special tube;
- FUM tape or plumbing linen;
- metallized tape;
- stuffing box;
- corrugation;
- tap;
- flexible hose for connecting the tank to the water supply;
- polyethylene film;
bucket and rag; - repair solution;
- dowels, if they are not provided with the toilet bowl.
Some installation methods require the use of cement mortar.
Suspension
Do-it-yourself installation of a suspended (hinged) toilet bowl is carried out within the framework of overhaul before the start of finishing work. The set of tools for installing the device must include a level.
When choosing an installation location, it is important to consider that the shorter the pipe connecting the toilet to the sewer, the better it will be easier to clean in case of blockage. The toilet bowl is attached only to the main wall, otherwise it simply will not withstand the load.
The first and most important stage of any installation is marking. The installation location of the toilet bowl must be coordinated with the outlet of the toilet bowl in order to obtain the optimal slope of the pipe.
Most likely, during the marking process, the frame (installation) will have to be moved several times. Experts advise set the frame so that cistern located about a meter from the floor.
Sewerage and water supply to the installation site of the toilet are brought before the installation of the frame. Elementary logic suggests that after fixing the frame, any work becomes almost impossible. Before installing the frame, leveling is carried out using a level. on all planes.
For precise adjustment of the position of the frame, adjustable legs are provided in its design. The frame is fixed to the floor with anchor bolts to fix the structure to the wall. additional brackets may be required.
When the frame is installed, the toilet bowl is attached. The recommended height of the bowl is about 40 cm from the floor., however, if such an arrangement is inconvenient for you and your family, the height can be chosen empirically.
After that, the walls are finished and the niche is “sealed”. When masking a niche it is important to provide access to the tank in case of emergency. The bowl is installed last.
You can watch the installation rules and the installation process of a hanging (hinged) toilet bowl with your own hands on the video:
The majority of compatriots, in particular skilled craftsmen, are often taken on their own to repair the house and its various systems. However, due to certain circumstances, they treat the installation of new plumbing with extreme caution and even disbelief in own forces. And although often for the installation of a toilet, for example, you have to pay mercenaries an amount equivalent to the cost of the toilet itself, this fact still does not stop them. But in vain, because installing a toilet bowl with your own hands is a very simple task!
Preparing for installation
Of course, it will not hurt you to familiarize yourself with a number of specific nuances related to the installation procedure, but they are so accessible that you can easily figure them out. In fact, it turns out that installation, direct installation and connection to common system sewers of bathrooms of all types practically do not differ from each other. The only difference can be identified in the connection of some additional features, coupled with the installation of an automated system.
Different systems are made up of similar elements
Of course, any toilet comes with step-by-step instructions for assembling it. During the installation of the drain and fill system, there should not be any difficulties. However, close attention must be paid, since its job is to regulate the pressure and volume of water filling the tank.
Check the contents of the cistern
Application deserves special attention. This solution is very convenient to use. We will talk about the installation in detail in a separate review.
Installing a toilet step by step
Consider the main pitfalls in the procedure for installing a brand new toilet. We will talk specifically about new settlers, that is, our instructions do not imply the dismantling of the old bathroom. Therefore, be careful.
So, for self-assembly of a newly purchased toilet bowl, you need to perform the following steps:
This is all! Self-assembly the bathroom has come to an end. However, you should not immediately use it for its intended purpose: you need to let the silicone harden. He does this for 6 hours. By the way, do not spare the sealant! There is not much of it in the assembly business. But be sure to make sure that the silicone is not inside the pipe.
Note: For self installation bathroom and its tank you do not need professional tools. It is enough to stock up on a set of wrenches and adjustable wrenches.
Bathroom with vertical outlet
This model is especially popular in Europe. Such a toilet is a device in which the siphon located in the bowl and the outlet pipe are directed downward during installation. This universal design allows you to install a bathroom at any angle to the wall.
For installation, you need to perform only a few steps:
- Make floor markings and install a conventional screw flange with a locking device;
- Install the sewer pipe in the center of the flange;
- Install the toilet bowl on the flange, securely fix the outlet pipe.
Bathroom with horizontal outlet
Or in another way with a direct release "into the wall". The most common in Russia. The outlet of such a toilet is invariably directed backwards. The outlet pipe in this design is connected to the sewer pipe by means of a specific cuff.
Pay attention in the installation procedure to fixing the bathroom to the floor. The legs of this type of toilet, as a rule, are equipped with specific holes designed to fix plumbing exactly to the floor surface.
Advice: Connecting a bathroom with direct outlet should begin during its installation. Dowels and standard screws are used as fasteners. Fasten the structure with all care, since excessively strong and sharp screw "pulling" is quite capable of damaging the integrity of the bathroom.
Toilet bowl with oblique outlet
Consider the main points of installation:
Connection specifics without corrugation
We have already considered the connection of the bathroom to the general sewerage system using corrugated pipes in the step-by-step instructions. Is it possible to connect a toilet bowl without the use of corrugations, and will this process turn out to be more complicated? Such a connection, of course, is possible, while it is unlikely to cause you any questions.
If you are finally convinced of the uselessness of the corrugations, then take a closer look at the following specific nuances in the procedure for such a connection:
Mandatory use of a vent pipe. Given the angle of the toilet bowl, the connection of the adapter is carried out by different methods:
bathroom with slanted outlet– installation is carried out in the floor: in modern apartments you will no longer see such a connection, but once it was relevant;
bathroom with vertical outlet- installation is carried out strictly at a right angle to the wall;
bathroom with horizontal outlet– installation angle is equivalent to 40º, installation is made in the wall.- If the outlet of the bathroom does not fit the outlet of the sewerage system, it is necessary: either to purchase a different model of the product, or still use flexible pipe adapters.
Thus, installing a toilet bowl with your own hands should not cause you serious problems. You can easily implement it, guided by certain rules, following the steps of the step-by-step instructions and taking into account the specifics plumbing installation. It will cost you much less than calling professionals at home.
In the next article we will tell.
During a major overhaul or due to a failure of plumbing, it is most often necessary to replace the toilet bowl. In order for everything to go smoothly, you should consider whole line features of this process and the right approach to choosing a new toilet bowl. To carry out all the work, you can seek help from the plumbers of your housing office or from private craftsmen who will do all the necessary operations. However, installing a toilet with your own hands will save a lot of money, and understanding the whole process will help you choose the most best option and mounting method.
A complete toilet replacement is part of a major overhaul and includes the following items:
- - choose a new toilet according to the method of attachment and the method of draining;
- - dismantle the old toilet;
- - repair the room (replacement of lining, screed, sewer pipes, etc.);
- - installation and connection of a new toilet bowl.
It is very important to make a choice and purchase a new toilet in advance. This takes into account a number of features and nuances.
Choosing a new toilet
According to their design, floor toilet bowls are divided into several types, differing in the shape of their main nodes.
So, there are the following models according to the shape of the outlet drain:
- horizontal
- oblique (at an angle of 45 degrees)
- vertical
The shape of the bowl distinguish:
- poppet
- visor
- funnel-shaped
The flush tank can be combined with the base of the toilet or mounted separately on the wall, raising it to a sufficient height, and sometimes to the ceiling.
Fixing toilets to the floor are also different. Basically, there are options with two and four direct attachment points, in addition, structures may come across in which special corners are attached to the floor, and the toilet itself is already attached to them.
Choosing a toilet should begin with the selection of the type of drain. If it is not intended to change the supply of the sewer pipe, then the same type of drain must be selected as was installed before. No adapters and pipes will be able to connect a toilet bowl with high quality, for example, with a direct outlet and a vertical one.
The way the tank is connected affects the cladding work in the toilet. After all, if a wall mounting method is chosen, then it will be necessary to prepare a place and anchors for installation.
Before you change the toilet, you should take into account the dimensions of the toilet so that the design after installation does not interfere with closing the door and installing the rest of the equipment, if all this is done in a combined bathroom.
Removing an old toilet
- Turn off the water supply to the drain tank. Drain all the water from it and unscrew the hose that goes to it. After that, you can unscrew the fasteners of the tank. Most likely, the bolts on which it is attached are rusted or stuck with deposits. In order to break them, you will need to hold the head of the bolt on one side with a screwdriver or open-end wrench, and on the other hand, unscrew the nut with an adjustable wrench. You can use WD-40 spray lubricant or some kerosene to soak the bolt. Then he will more easily succumb to efforts.
- After removing the tank, the fasteners of the toilet bowl are unscrewed. It can be nuts screwed onto an anchor or dowel.
- The next step is to disconnect the drain from the sewer pipe. In the houses of the old building, the drain was fixed with a cement coating. For work you will need a chisel and a hammer. Carefully prick the cement with a chisel, placing it across the coating in two places. Then you can shake the toilet with force until the drain turns and loosens. After that, without disconnecting the toilet, tilt it in order to drain all the remaining water from it.
- When the dismantling of the toilet is completed, the hole in the sewer pipe is closed with a cloth plug or a wooden plug. It should be remembered that the gases from the sewer are not only poisonous and smell unpleasant, but also flammable.
You can not stand on ceremony with the dismantling of the toilet, because it is unlikely to be reused. In this case, to facilitate work with chipping off the cement coating, it is better to beat off with a sledgehammer most toilet. In order to make it easier to scroll and loosen the drain after that, make a transverse hole in the pipe and insert a metal rod or wooden stick as a lever.
If cast-iron drain pipes are laid in the apartment, it is best to change them all to plastic at the same time. Usage PVC pipes for sewerage greatly facilitates the process of operation and initial wiring, as well as connecting all drain points.
How to install a new toilet
- When all Finishing work produced or the old toilet is dismantled, and the surface for the new one is leveled and prepared, you can proceed with the installation. To do this, either corrugated pipe for articulation with a sewer outlet pipe, or a rigid branch pipe. It is best when the toilet drain fits perfectly into the pipe outlet and without the use of corrugated pipes. In this case, it is only necessary to use a rubber seal with a border. When using rubber seals, the drain transition to the sewer inlet must not be sealed with cement.
- Water supply is being prepared. The easiest way is to use a flexible hose that is wound around the water supply tap and to the inlet to the tank. You should carefully select the required diameter of the fasteners at both ends of the hose. Thus, 1/8” pipe outlets are often used, but 3/4” pipe can also be installed.
- After connecting, you can proceed to fixing the toilet to the floor or wall. More details about connection methods will be discussed below.
- The toilet is being assembled. A tank is mounted on a fixed base or a pipe is connected from a hanging barrel fixed on the wall. After that, you can check the performance of the toilet bowl and tank settings. To do this, turn on the feed cold water and wait until the tank is full. With the help of the adjustment, you can adjust the level to which water will be drawn. Each locking mechanism or tank comes with instructions on how to set it up.
- The final step will be the attachment of the toilet seat. There are holes on the far upper part of the toilet bowl for its fastening, and bolt or anchor fasteners are included with the toilet seat.
Ways to fix the toilet bowl and their features
There are three main options for attaching the toilet to the floor:
- reinforcement with anchors cast into the screed, or the use of dowels;
- installation of a toilet bowl on a wooden base pre-mounted in the screed using screws;
- fixing with epoxy.
What is the best way to fasten during the overhaul of the floor
If the toilet is being replaced during a major overhaul, then it is better to use the option with anchoring or with a prepared wooden base. In this embodiment, at the stage of forming a screed on the floor, anchors are placed on it strictly in accordance with the placement of the toilet bowl and holes for fastening. As a result, they should protrude about 5-6 cm above the surface. It is better to cut off the excess later than to face a problem when the anchor is not enough to fix the nut on it.
A wooden board (taffeta) is selected according to the size of the base of the toilet bowl. Nails are hammered into it in a checkerboard pattern over the entire surface so that they protrude from the other side. After that, turn the board over and install it in the place of the future location of the toilet. Concrete is poured into the screed along with taffeta along its upper edge. After that, you can install the toilet in place and secure with screws.
Fixing a toilet bowl to a tile
When fixing the toilet bowl under the nuts for anchors and on the dowels, it is imperative to put on rubber gaskets that will protect the toilet bowl from cracking when tightened and prevent the formation of rusty drips on ceramics. It is best to use nickel-plated bolts and anchors so that at the end of their service life they can still be easily unscrewed.
For installation on an already finished surface, such as a tiled floor better fit fastening with dowels or on epoxy resin, so as not to spoil appearance coatings.
At the same time, holes are made under the dowels through the tile and screed for their installation, into which screws are screwed. It is important not to make holes too deep, so as not to damage the waterproofing layer. If the screed is too thin, then it is best to pour a little sealant into the hole before installing the dowel. A rubber gasket must be put on the screw. The toilet itself is best placed on a cushion of sealant and then pressed down with screws.
You can do without the use of screws, dowels and anchors. To do this, it is enough to take epoxy resin and properly prepare the surface of the floor and the base of the toilet bowl. This option is best suited if the barrel is installed on the wall, because it is half the weight of the entire structure. First of all, you should walk with an abrasive stone or sandpaper on the floor surface in order to subsequently epoxy resin held well on the surface. After that, a layer of several millimeters of glue is applied to the floor and the toilet. After setting everything in its place, you should wait for the glue to dry completely.
Hanging solutions
It is getting more and more popular. Installation wall hung toilet made on the wall without fastenings or contacts with the floor. In order to fix it, it is necessary to build a metal frame that is attached directly to bearing wall, and already to it the toilet itself in the event that it is supposed to hide the tank and pipes behind a plasterboard wall. In some cases wall mounted toilet with an open tank, you can mount it directly to the wall, but then you will need to transfer the sewer pipe into the thickness of the wall. The fastening itself is carried out using anchors mounted in a wall or frame.
How much will it cost to invite a specialist?
So, having familiarized yourself with the process of replacing the toilet bowl, you can compare do-it-yourself installation options and pay for the work of a plumber. On average, installing a toilet bowl costs from 400 to 1200 rubles, if you turn to private craftsmen. However, the cost of installation can increase significantly depending on the high cost of plumbing and the complexity of its installation.
Video: do-it-yourself toilet installation
To connect plumbing fixtures to the water supply network, a flexible water supply is used. It is in demand when connecting faucets, showers, toilets and other points of water intake, and greatly simplifies the installation process. Flexible eyeliner also applies to installation gas equipment. It differs from similar devices for water in manufacturing technology and special safety requirements.
Characteristics and types
Flexible hose for plumbing is a hose of different lengths, made of non-toxic synthetic rubber. Due to the elasticity and softness of the material, it easily takes the desired position and allows installation in hard-to-reach places. To protect the flexible hose, the upper reinforcing layer is designed in the form of a braid, which is made of the following materials:
- aluminum. Such models withstand no more than +80 ° C and retain functionality for 3 years. At high humidity aluminum braid is prone to rust.
- Of stainless steel. Thanks to this reinforcing layer, the service life of a flexible water supply is at least 10 years, and Maximum temperature transported medium - +95 °C.
- Nylon. Such a braid is used for the manufacture of reinforced models that can withstand temperatures up to +110 ° C and are designed for intensive use for 15 years.
Nut-nut and nut-nipple pairs are used as fasteners, which are made of brass or of stainless steel. Devices with different indicators allowable temperature vary in braid color. Blue are used to connect to a pipeline with cold water, and red - with hot.
When choosing a water supply, you need to pay attention to its elasticity, reliability of fasteners and purpose. It is also mandatory to have a certificate that excludes the release of toxic components by rubber during operation.
Features of gas connections
When connecting gas stoves, speakers and other types of equipment also use flexible piping. Unlike models for water, they have yellow and are not tested for environmental safety. For fixing, end steel or aluminum fittings are used. There are the following types of devices for connecting gas appliances:
- PVC hoses reinforced with polyester thread;
- synthetic rubber with stainless steel braid;
- bellows, made in the form of a corrugated stainless steel tube.
Holding "Santekhkomplekt" offers engineering equipment, fittings, plumbing and accessories for its connection to communications. The assortment is represented by products and materials of well-known foreign and domestic manufacturers. Discounts apply for bulk purchases, and product quality is confirmed by standard certificates. For information support and assistance, a personal manager is assigned to each client. The ability to arrange delivery within Moscow and to other regions of the Russian Federation allows you to quickly receive the purchased goods without any hassle.
Drainage is a hydro-reclamation measure to remove excess ground water.
If water does not leave the territory of the site for a long time, soil gleying occurs, if shrubs and trees quickly disappear (wet), it is urgent to take measures and drain the site.
Reasons for waterlogging the soil
There are several reasons for waterlogged soils:
- clay heavy soil structure with poor water permeability;
- an aquiclude in the form of gray-green and red-brown clays is located close to the surface;
- high occurrence of groundwater;
- technogenic factors (construction of roads, pipelines, various facilities) that impede natural drainage;
- violation of the water balance by the construction of irrigation systems;
- the landscape area is located in a lowland, a beam, a hollow. In this case, precipitation and water inflow from higher places play an important role.
What causes excess moisture in the soil
You can see the results of this phenomenon yourself - trees and shrubs are dying. Why is this happening?
- the oxygen content in the soil decreases and the content of carbon dioxide increases, which leads to a violation of the processes of air exchange, water regime and nutrition in the soil;
- oxygen starvation of the root-forming layer occurs, which leads to the death of plant roots;
- the intake of macro and microelements by plants (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, etc.) is disrupted, because excess water washes out mobile forms of elements from the soil, and they become inaccessible for assimilation;
- there is an intensive breakdown of proteins and, accordingly, the processes of decay are activated.
Plants can tell at what level groundwater occurs
Take a close look at the flora in your area. The species inhabiting it will tell you at what depth the groundwater layers are located:
- top water - in this place it is best to dig a reservoir;
- at a depth of up to 0.5 m - grow marigold, horsetail, varieties of sedge - blister, holly, fox, Langsdorf reed grass;
- at a depth of 0.5 m to 1 m - meadowsweet, canary grass,;
- from 1 m to 1.5 m – favorable conditions for meadow fescue, bluegrass, mouse peas, ranks;
- from 1.5 m - wheatgrass, clover, wormwood, plantain.
What is important to know when planning site drainage
Each group of plants has its own moisture needs:
- at a depth of groundwater from 0.5 to 1 m can grow on high beds vegetables and flowers of the same year;
- the depth of the water reservoir up to 1.5 m is well tolerated vegetable crops, cereals, annuals and perennials (flowers), ornamental and fruit and berry bushes, trees on a dwarf rootstock;
- if groundwater at a depth of more than 2 m, you can grow fruit trees;
- optimal groundwater depth for Agriculture- from 3.5 m.
Do you need site drainage?
Record your observations at least for a while. You yourself will be able to understand how much drainage is needed.
Maybe it makes sense to simply redirect melt and sediment water along a bypass channel, and not let it flow through your site?
Perhaps it is necessary to design and equip a storm drain and improve the composition of the soil, and will this be enough?
Or is it worth it drainage system only for fruit and ornamental trees?
The exact answer will be given to you by a specialist, whom we strongly recommend calling. But after reading this article, you will gain some awareness in this matter.
Upon completion of the technological and production tasks associated with the arrangement sewer system V apartment building, a production building, as well as in a private household, it is required to test the system involved by the forced flow method. This task was applied to identify possible defects or improper installation of the entire sewer part involved and the act of testing systems internal sewerage and drains will be material evidence of work on the acceptance of the facility.
A visual check should be accompanied by inclusion in the act of testing internal sewerage systems and drains according to SNIP, which is currently represented by the current regulations of the appendix of the D series, which corresponds to SP 73.13330.2012 "Internal sanitary systems of the building", in Lately the new updated working version according to SNiP 3.05.01-85 is applicable.
To know how to install the toilet correctly, you need to understand the models and evaluate the possibilities of sewage in a private house. It is much faster and easier than paying the masters an amount equal to the cost of the plumbing itself.
Moreover, in the installation instructions everything is described in detail, even there are pictures. Therefore, installing a toilet in a private house with your own hands should not be a hassle, especially if the sewer is new.
In contact with
Tools and materials
Simple set of tools found in every home
- drill with a drill with a diameter of 10 mm;
- screwdriver;
- roulette;
- marking marker;
- screwdrivers and a set of wrenches;
- knife for cutting the gasket.
You may also need a spatula to eliminate chips ceramic tiles. Materials required for installation, except for the bowl and tank:
- corrugated hose;
- gland - rubber gasket;
- hose for supplying water to the tank;
- sealing tape for sealing;
- a faucet that will shut off water in plumbing;
- silicone.
Important! When choosing a bowl, you need to take into account the size of the room, so as not to subsequently rest your knees on the door.
You should also provide for the installation of the product, what stock is available. Of course, it is better when the model of the bowl and the method of its installation are planned at the construction stage. But it happens that you just need to replace the old plumbing with a new one. Then you have to connect to the old sewerage system, and use drains that were made a long time ago.
Toilet corrugation prices
corrugation for the toilet
How to choose a toilet
The bowl should be easy to clean, be comfortable. Sizes are selected based on the growth of all family members. You can buy the model you like, which will be inconvenient to operate, because it will not correspond to the parameters of a private house or apartment.
Do-it-yourself installation of a toilet bowl in a private house is associated with certain costs and I want them to pay off in terms of convenience.
First of all, models differ in price:
- Economy class;
- middle class;
- luxury plumbing.
Details of elite plumbing are designed for long term services just won't break. Buying an expensive item, you can be sure that it will last a long time.
Another option is color spectrum. In large supermarkets, you can pick up any shade and embody the most daring design decisions.
Models available for sale:
- from natural stone – durable and reliable, service life is unlimited;
- glass - completely transparent or with a pattern;
- faience;
- ceramic;
- metal;
- porcelain, which can reach up to 50 years;
- plastic.
When buying, you need to carefully look at what is included in the equipment kit. It may happen that the bowl and tank sold separately.
Except external characteristics, need to note:
- to the height of the equipment;
- type of construction - suspended, floor, wall floor;
- what type of flush - reverse or direct;
- the method of draining from the tank is one or two-button.
It will cost more, but the structural elements will be hidden in the wall, which will save some space in the room. The reverse flush is better because it washes the bowl completely. allows save water.
Important! When choosing a design, it is worth checking it for cracks, chips.
Prices for toilets
Varieties of toilet bowls
Plumbing products distinguish drain design:
- horizontal - the drain is located in the floor;
- vertical - parallel to the floor;
- oblique - at an angle of 30 degrees to the floor.
Tanks are:
- Separated when they are connected to the bowl by a pipe. How to assemble a toilet bowl and a tank is shown in the instructions.
- Compacts if attached directly to the bowl. The design diagram is drawn in the instructions, fasteners are included, so assembly will not be difficult.
bowl design:
- with flat flush;
- with vertical flush.
The location of the neck of the bowl is front and back. The front is more common, as it is more convenient to use. The toilet diagram in the instructions allows you to decide what exactly is suitable for use.
Preparing for installation
If it is implied, then first needs to be dismantled old equipment and install new equipment in its place. Correct installation toilet bowl - a guarantee of cleanliness and safety for a new repair. The seams should not leak, the body should not wobble or make sounds.
If ceramic tile has already been changed, then the installation of plumbing is carried out directly over tiles. In this case, you need to carefully use a drill so that the tile does not crack.
If the old plumbing is being removed, and there has not been a repair yet, then before starting the dismantling, you need to prepare rags, because water will flow from the toilet. The bowl needs to be washed and processed disinfectant. You should also turn off the water supply and drain the remains from the tank.
First, all existing hoses are disconnected, screws are unscrewed, and the tank is dismantled. Next, you need to knock out the leg from the tile. For this use a crowbar. The nuts are unscrewed from the base of the bowl.
Before disconnecting from the sewer pipe, you need to make a stopper from rags and immediately plug the pipe so that odors do not enter the house. The assembly of the structure will not take much time, so use new thing can be in one hour if the room has already been renovated. If you have to lay new tiles, you will have to use an outdoor toilet for some time.
How to assemble a toilet can be seen in the diagram. Step-by-step instruction attached to each model of equipment.
Step-by-step instructions for installing a toilet bowl
How to install a toilet? The first step is to connect the bowl to the sewer. This requires a corrugated hose. A rubber seal is put on the outlet end of the product. The other end joins sewer pipe. First, you need to pull out the gag from the rags.
When the product is already in place, they produce the following operations:
- Mark holes on the floor with a marker by inserting a marker into them.
- Having moved the bowl away, drill holes according to the marks (the diameter must match the fasteners that come with the plumbing, you need to use special drills that can be used to drill tiles).
- The product moves into place and is attached to the floor.
- The junction of the product and the floor filled with sealant, another option is to cut a thin rubber gasket in the shape of a leg and place it before fastening.
To connect the tank needed:
- fixing bolts - 2 pcs.;
- rubber gasket under the drain mechanism.
The installation of the toilet cistern begins with the fastening of the bolts. Next, a gasket is placed, and the tank is put in its place. The holes line up and the fasteners are hand tightened. Toilet assembly completed.
Do-it-yourself toilet replacement ends with a connection to the water supply and sewerage. Installation of toilet bowls with a cistern directly attached does not require fastening, as it is a monoblock.
Features of connection to water supply and sewerage
Installation of the toilet is over, then you need to figure out how to establish a connection to water supply and sewerage. For connection to the pipe there is a flexible hose, at both ends of which there are nuts.
Sealing from the side of the sanitary equipment occurs with the help of rubber gaskets or a special tape.
You can simultaneously put a tap on the pipe so that you can shut off the water entering the tank. In this case, other water intake points will work.
How to install the toilet correctly if the drain is different from the previous equipment? You will have to change the piping to match the new model.
Installing a toilet with an oblique outlet
Floor models come with an oblique, vertical or horizontal drain. Installing a toilet with an oblique outlet is different from the vertical or horizontal method.
To joint did not leak, need to:
- lubricate the outlet pipe with red lead - oil paint mixed with drying oil;
- wind the fiber and then also smear with paint;
- fix the pipe in the sewer pipe.
The installation of a toilet with an oblique outlet is carried out if the previous equipment had the same drain.
Installing toilet bowls with an attached cistern
The monoblock lasts a long time, so when buying a model, it is recommended to immediately purchase spare internal parts, since models on the market often change, and after a while they will no longer be produced.
Installation of toilet bowls with a tank directly attached is carried out as follows:
- the pipe is connected to the sewer;
The assembly instructions for any model are designed for an ordinary buyer or a beginner, so it will not be difficult. It is necessary to study in detail the stages of work, prepare tools, materials - and you can proceed to the procedure for replacing plumbing equipment.
