For a zealous owner, a desktop is an indispensable attribute of a garage, barn or extension to the house. Of course, a carpentry workbench can be purchased. But if this product well-known brand, it is quite expensive. In addition, it is not known whether it will fully meet all the requests of the master. Cheap tables will not last long - definitely.
The most rational solution, if you really want to have the most convenient and versatile carpentry workbench, is to make it yourself. Having dealt with optimal dimensions, drawings, features of the selection of materials and a number of other issues, it will become clear that there is nothing difficult in this for any man.
Selecting a workbench project
You need to start with this. Any desktop is made for some specific purposes and premises. Joiner's workbench - the name is generalized. One is needed only for woodworking on personal plot(e.g. during construction or overhaul), the other is assembled for everyday work with small parts, and from different materials. Depending on the specifics of use and the place of installation, its design features, dimensions, and drawing are determined.
Option A - portable workbench (mobile).
Option B - in fact, this is an intermediate (prefabricated) structure (on bolted connections).
For household purposes home master the table according to option A is best suited. It is called mobile only conditionally, only because of its relatively low weight. If a specific place is allocated for him in a barn or garage, nothing prevents the owner from fixing his legs on the floor (fill with concrete, “fasten” with large self-tapping screws, and so on). With your own hands, whatever.
Drafting a carpentry workbench
If the workbench is assembled for domestic use, then there are recommended linear parameters (in cm) that you can focus on. But this is not an axiom, so the master himself is free to change anything, at his own discretion.
- Length - at least 180.
- Width working surface– 90±10.
- Workbench height - 80 ± 10 (taking into account the thickness of the tabletop). Deciding on this parameter, you need to focus on your own growth. It is unlikely that working with a tree will be effective and will bring satisfaction if you have to constantly stoop or, on the contrary, rise “on tiptoe”.
What to consider:
- The number and type of compartments in the table cabinet. It can be open boxes, drawers or drawers with doors, shelves. Another thing is whether the master needs them?
- To make it more convenient to work with samples of different lengths, it is worth drilling several “nests” in the tabletop to install limiters.
- To fix the workpieces, it is desirable to have a couple of clamping devices (clamps or screw vices) on the workbench. The optimal width of their "sponges" is 170 ± 5 mm.
- Desktop location. Depending on the level of illumination, the number of fixtures fixed on the workbench (and above it) is determined. But at least a couple of pieces, on the edges of the tabletop, are necessary for “spot” lighting.
If the owner is left-handed, then this should be foreseen. All standard drawings posted on the Internet are designed for craftsmen whose "working" hand is right. Therefore, you will have to place additional / equipment on the table according to the “mirror” principle.
Workbench drawing example
Selection of materials
The bar is planed. Board.
The desktop is not installed in the living quarters. And in the workshop there will definitely be differences in both temperature and humidity. That's why for the manufacture of a workbench, wood is recommended - hornbeam, beech, oak. The only disadvantage of this solution is the high cost of materials. You can choose a cheaper option - maple, larch. These rocks are characterized by sufficient hardness. Although for the countertop of a home-made workbench, if it is not planned to carry out any “impact” work on it, plate samples (chipboard, OSV) are sometimes taken. In principle, any good owner can easily determine what suits him best.
Too porous wood should not be used. Even its high-quality treatment with antiseptics, oils will only increase the water-repellent properties, but will not add strength to the tree.
fasteners
- Bolts. There are no particular difficulties with them. They must be of such length that reverse side you could put a washer, grover and nut. More difficult with other types of fasteners.
- Nails. How expedient it is to use them when assembling a workbench with your own hands (and such recommendations are quite common), everyone will determine for themselves. But a number of remarks are worth making.
- Firstly, a nail, especially a large one, easily splits wood, especially if it is overdried.
- Secondly, it is unlikely that it will be possible to drive it strictly vertically, given the length of the leg and the strength of the wood from which the workbench is made.
- Thirdly, the difficulty with dismantling. For example, if it is necessary to repair the desktop with the replacement of a component. It is not always possible to pull out a tightly clogged “powerful” nail.
- Self-tapping screws. For a small workbench - the best choice. The most "problem" areas can be additionally reinforced with metal strips, corners, plates. The main thing is to correctly choose the length of the leg of the fastener. There is a rule according to which it should exceed the thickness of the fastened part by 3 times, at least. Otherwise, the strength of the connection is questionable.
Assembly instructions for a carpentry workbench
In the process of making a desktop with his own hands, the master must constantly, at every stage, control the angles and levels. The slightest distortion even in one place - and everything will have to start over.
Manufacturing of workbench parts
- This is easy to do according to the dimensions in the drawing.
- Each sample is carefully polished.
- Depending on the type of wood, an impregnating composition is selected and parts are processed to protect them from destruction by rot and wood-boring insects.
- Drying. This is worth focusing on. It is impossible to initiate this process with the help of artificial heating, otherwise the workpieces will begin to deform - bend, twist. Moisture should evaporate only naturally - in a room with room temperature and good ventilation.
Base Frame Assembly (Workbench Base)
Partially about the features of fastening has already been said - self-tapping screws + reinforcement elements. But still, the main method of fixation is a tenon-groove connection with a fit on carpentry glue. But the fasteners only add strength to the entire structure of the workbench. But this is practiced only for massive tables, which are not planned to be disassembled in the future (stationary options).
Here you should consider the degree of maintainability of the workbench. If he is in a room with good conditions, then it is unlikely that the wood will quickly begin to rot. In such cases adhesive joints quite justified. For desktops that are located in cold sheds, unheated boxes, and even more so in the open, “landing” on glue is undesirable. Partial repairs cannot be done, and the frame will have to be reassembled.
Additional reliability of the design can be ensured by installing various jumpers - diagonal, horizontal. All this is thought out even at the stage of drawing up the drawing, although it is possible to make “refinement” during the installation process.
table top
This is the most loaded part of the workbench, and it is advisable to make it removable. In this case, it is easy (in case of significant damage) to replace 1 - 2 boards.
- The width of the countertop is selected so that its surface extends somewhat beyond the perimeter of the frame. Otherwise, it will be inconvenient to work on such a workbench. Yes, and fixing the removable vise will no longer work.
- The side parts of the boards are carefully polished. If you do not achieve an accurate fit of the samples, then you cannot avoid the appearance of cracks.
- Workpieces are stacked front side down (on a flat base) and fastened with bars. They are placed perpendicular to the center lines of the boards, and the thickness of the latter allows them to be pulled with thick self-tapping screws. IN last resort, at individual points it is easy to drill in-depth chamfers.
- To make the tabletop removable, it is fixed on the frame using metal corners.
- After its manufacture, additional grinding of the front part is performed. To extend the service life, it is advisable to treat the working surface with impregnating agents (wood oil, drying oil).
Workbench equipment
At what stage and what exactly needs to be done is decided depending on the modification of the desktop and the selected drawing. For example, the same vise. They can be purchased, which are easy to attach to the edge of the workbench. People with experience in carpentry, make clamping devices on their own.
In principle, a man who is “friends” with the simplest tool should not have any difficulties when assembling a carpentry workbench. The only recommendation is that before you start drawing up a drawing, you should carefully review all the photos of desktops available on the Internet.
Even if they do not have sizes, it is not difficult to determine them. But with a high degree of probability it can be argued that there will be new, interesting ideas. After all, the workbench can also be folding, which is very convenient in a small box or barn. Yes, and having familiarized with the complete set of the table, design features different models, you can come up with something of your own, original. After all, the beauty of assembling with your own hands is in the absence of any canons. Only creativity + knowledge of the issue.
The device and purpose of the workbench
The carpenter's workbench is a workbench for manual and mechanical processing wooden products. The design and ergonomics of a classic carpentry workbench allow you to fix parts in various spatial positions and perform basic carpentry operations with maximum convenience: make wooden parts, assemble structures, cover them with finishing compounds. Traditional carpenter's table designed to work with lumber up to 3-3.5 m long. For processing longer pieces, a carpenter's workbench is used.
The carpentry table consists of a workbench (cover) and a workbench (bearing frame). A traditional workbench is equipped with front (front) and rear (end) vices, with the help of which the workpieces are fixed in the required spatial positions.
There are holes in the table top and wooden vise jaws. They are designed to install clamps and stops of various sections and heights.
Having placed the stops in desired configuration, a part is placed between them and pressed with a screw vice mechanism. Thus, the workpiece is securely fixed in a horizontal position. Based on the thickness of the wooden part, use a stop of the appropriate height, which will not protrude beyond the edge of the workpiece and interfere with processing.
How to choose the optimal workbench height?
The height of carpentry workbenches varies between 85-95 cm. Optimal Height tables are selected based on the growth of the master. If, standing at the workbench, the palms freely rest against its lid, then the size is chosen correctly. Behind such a workbench it will be convenient to perform all basic operations, without frequent bending and stretching, which lead to rapid fatigue.
What materials are best to make a structure?
The joinery workbench must have sufficient strength and rigidity, since during operation it is subjected to heavy loads, both static, formed under the weight of massive workpieces, and dynamic, arising in the process of sawing, drilling, impacts, etc. Sufficient strength characteristics are provided not only by the features of the fasteners, but also by the type of materials used.
Wood is traditionally used to make the base. conifers. The table top is made of durable wood: oak, beech, ash, maple, etc. The lumber used to create the workbench must be dry (moisture content of about 12%) without knots and other defects.
About making a bench cover
Experience shows that when making a carpentry workbench with your own hands, it is more expedient to purchase a ready-made glued shield, which will become a blank for the lid. The effort and time spent on cutting, jointing the edges, gluing the shield and leveling it when creating such a massive part will be incomparable with the money saved.
When performing work that increases the risk of damage to the lid: drilling, chiselling, etc., it is better to cover the working surface of the workbench with a thick plywood sheet or fiberboard cut to the shape of the lid. It is advisable to make this simple flooring immediately with a workbench.
Manufacturing and assembly of sidewalls
The design of the sidewall consists of two legs (B), tsargs and supports (A). The part is assembled on a through glued spike.
Figured cutouts of the tsarg and supports (detail A) are cut out on band saw followed by edge grinding.
In accordance with the dimensions indicated in the diagram, the legs are marked with sockets for the spikes of the prolegs, after which they are selected with a chisel or milled.
On the outer side of the legs, a conical recess is made for the head of the coupling bolt. A recess with a diameter of 35 mm and a depth of 11 mm is made with a Forstner drill. A through hole with a diameter of 14 mm is drilled in the center.
Sawing spikes and eyelets
Spikes and eyes are made on sawing machine or manually, guided by the basic principles of creating spiked joints. In such a critical design, the first option is preferable, since it allows you to minimize errors and inaccuracies, ensuring a flawless fit of the connection. The workpieces must have prepared smooth surfaces and correspond to the dimensions indicated in the drawing.
The halves of parts A are glued together, having previously placed an insert in the groove that will prevent displacement.
Sidewall assembly
Parts A and B are glued into a finished joint. After drying, the excess glue that has come through is carefully cleaned with a chisel. The assembled sidewall is polished.
A hole 19x38 mm is drilled in the center of the glued drawer side under the dowel (L) to fix the cover of the workbench.
Production of prolegs and underbench shelves
According to the dimensions indicated in the drawing, blanks for prolegs (detail C) are cut out in the amount of 4 pieces. Spikes are made at the ends of each part, adhering to the dimensions indicated in the photo. As in the case of the sidewall, this operation is best done on a saw machine.
The connection of the prolegs with the sidewall is made detachable on a bolt screed with a transverse nut. To do this, a recess for transverse nuts d25 mm and a depth of 32 mm is milled on the inside of the prolegs. A hole of 14x95 mm is drilled at the ends of the prolegs. At this stage, it is better to use a drilling jig, since the holes must be made strictly at an angle of 90 °.
The support strips (details D and E) are screwed with self-tapping screws with an offset of 22 mm from the upper edges of the prongs.
According to the dimensions specified in the “General Detailing” drawing, the slats of the bench shelf are cut out (detail F). Holes are drilled and countersinked at the ends of each plank. The planks are ground and sequentially mounted on the assembled frame.
Mounting the bench cover
On the back side of the workbench, do not drill through holes d19 mm and 32 mm deep for dowels (L).
With a d19 mm drill, through holes are made on the lid for bench stops. Similar sockets 45 mm deep are drilled at the end of the cover. All holes are chamfered. The stops should easily enter the sockets and not play.
Advice! For all drilling operations, use a drill with a jig to ensure neat holes at a perfectly right angle. It is not difficult to make such a guide yourself, having a piece of timber at hand.
Bench vise installation
Having decided to make a workbench with your own hands, it is more expedient to buy a carpentry vice at ready-made. In this case, you will get the most reliable and functional design, and, importantly, get rid of unnecessary headaches during their installation.
Manufacturers of bench vises strive to adhere to standards in the manufacture of their products. Here we take a look at the wiring diagram. standard designs. But it is quite possible that you will have to improvise, adapting the installation to the features of non-standard bench vise.
Vice jaws - parts H, I and J (2 pcs.) - cut out of wood hard rock. After that, holes are drilled for the guide rods, lead screw, sockets for bench supports and holes for fixing screws.
The rear jaws of the front and rear vise are mounted to the workbench cover as shown in the photo.
Wooden linings (detail K) are cut to fit the vise. Through holes are drilled in the drawers for the guide rods and the lead screw.
Advice! To accurately mark the holes, use the guides themselves, pieces of masking tape and a soft pencil.
It's no secret that well-equipped workplace- the key to the successful implementation of locksmith, electromechanical or installation work. The main subject in the garage or workshop, around which everything is arranged work zone, is a workbench. This desktop must have the necessary functionality, be durable and reliable. Purchase finished product in the distribution network can result in a tidy sum, so it is better to make it yourself. This will make it possible not only to save money, but also to get a garage table in strict accordance with the requests for functionality and placement.
Workbench with your own hands. How to do?
Below we will tell you how to make a wooden or metal workbench with your own hands. The presented designs do not require the use of any scarce parts or the use of expensive equipment, and during the installation process, you can get by with minimal carpentry and locksmith skills.
Making a workbench with your own hands (from wood)
Making a carpentry workbench with your own hands has a lot of advantages, which are that you can pre-arrange the locations of the vise and other devices, consider the number and location of drawers, etc.
Necessary tools and materials
For self-manufacturing workbench you need to prepare the following tools:
- electric jigsaw or a hacksaw;
- electric drill and a set of drills for wood and metal;
- joiner's square;
- roulette;
- bubble level;
- set of wrenches.
- When stocking up on materials, be sure to pay attention that the wooden parts do not have cracks and knots. To get started, you will need:
- bars for support legs 100x100 mm;
- two plywood sheets with a thickness of at least 20 mm (OSB can be used). In this case, one sheet will go to the table top, and the other to the bottom shelf.
- boards 50x150 mm, from which the frame will be mounted;
- bolts (it is best to use furniture ones, with a square part that prevents them from rotating in wooden parts);
- washers and nuts;
- self-tapping screws.
To facilitate assembly and avoid mistakes when cutting material, it is better to make drawings of a workbench and indicate the dimensions of each part on it.
DIY workbench drawings
Workbench with your own hands. Step-by-step instruction
First of all, you need to make upper frame underframe. To do this, in accordance with the drawing, boards of the desired length are sawn off.
Using self-tapping screws, long and short parts are fastened in such a way as to obtain a rectangular frame. After that, measure the distance to its middle along the long side, where the spacer bar is installed. In its capacity, the same board 50x150 mm is used, which is attached to the frame from both ends with self-tapping screws.
Workbench made of wood with your own hands. Photo
Support legs a workbench is made from 6 identical bars. For their fastening to the upper frame, long bolts with nuts and washers are used. To mount the support, the bar is placed in the corner of the frame and two through holes are drilled through the leg and side board. Then the connections are tightened using bolts with nuts.
To achieve the necessary rigidity of the structure, the lower boards are mounted. By the way, these same details will serve as the basis bottom shelf. To do this, in full accordance with the drawings of the workbench, saw off 4 wooden parts with a section of 50x150 mm.
To fix the bottom boards, measure 30 cm from the edge of each support. At this height, one piece is attached to the three rear legs of the structure, and from the front board is attached between the middle and side supports on the side where it will be installed additional shelf.
Two short boards are mounted at the same height on the sides of the workbench.
Using an electric jigsaw or hacksaw, parts are cut from OSB sheets or plywood for countertops. It is fixed flush to the top of the desktop with self-tapping screws. To protect the surface of the workbench from damage, a layer of hardboard is laid on top of the plywood, which, as it wears out, can be easily replaced with new material. To install the bottom shelf, measure the distance from the middle to the extreme legs. The material is cut to this size and with a jigsaw or a hacksaw in its corners cutouts are made under support legs. The fastening of the shield to the lower base is carried out similarly to the installation of the tabletop.
To obtain the stability of the frame structure, when attaching the supports and assembling the frame locksmith workbench definitely use joiner's square. After installing the workbench, bubble level check its horizontal position. If necessary, the level can be changed by placing small segments thin plywood under the legs.
Workbench with your own hands. Step-by-step instruction
After the assembly is completed, the workbench is impregnated with a special protective composition, varnished or painted.
Small workbench for home DIY
The design of the locksmith's workbench proposed below will greatly facilitate the locksmith's and installation work not only in a small garage, but also on a balcony, in the corner of a utility room, etc. With all the functionality and convenience of a full-size desktop, it won't take up a lot of space and can fit a variety of tools and accessories in its drawers.
table top small workbench It is made of two sheets of plywood glued together with a thickness of at least 18 mm and has dimensions of 1500x600 mm. To strengthen the table top, it has an additional thickening at the edges with two layers of plywood sheet, which gives a thickness of 72 mm.
Considering that 18 mm thick plywood is not the cheapest material (the cost of one sheet is about 1000 rubles), you can save a little if you buy a full-size sheet with dimensions of 2440x1220 mm. Unfortunately, this material is not enough to make a reinforcing strip, which is located around the perimeter of the lid, so you will have to additionally look for a small piece of plywood sheet. Otherwise, the design of the countertop will have to be changed.
Starting to build a small carpentry workbench with your own hands, prepare the following tools and materials:
- a rule with a length of at least 2 m;
- Circular Saw;
- joiner's square;
- notched trowel with a tooth size of 2x2 or 3x3 mm. Can buy finished tool or make it yourself using a grinder;
- screwdriver or a set of screwdrivers;
- spanners;
- good wood glue, for example, "Moment Joiner"
- plywood 18mm thick;
- wooden beam 40x60 mm;
- self-tapping screws;
- bolts, nuts, washers.
In addition, for the independent manufacture of a workbench, you need to acquire good carpentry clamps, without which it will be problematic to glue plywood sheets. If quality tool it is not possible to purchase, you can use inexpensive Chinese clamps, which will need twice the amount.
The process of making a workbench with your own hands begins with lids, on which a strip 1520 mm long is cut from a sheet of plywood 2440 mm long. Sawing this part, they get elements measuring 1520x610 mm to reinforce the sides of the lid. Then the rule checks the plane plywood sheets, in order to orient them with a convex surface inward when gluing.
The next step will require maximum concentration and accuracy - within a couple of minutes you need to evenly distribute wood glue on the surface of one sheet of plywood. If you feel that a lack of experience will not give you the opportunity to cope with this work in such a short time, then use to connect wooden parts PVA furniture glue It has no time limits and allows the application of a simple paint brush. Having prepared the clamps and boards in advance to distribute the load over the entire plane, lay the bottom sheet on three boards, and after applying the adhesive, cover it with the top plywood shield.
Having installed the pressure boards on top, tighten the structure with clamps, constantly controlling the flatness with the help of the rule. The place in the center of the tabletop cannot be pressed with a clamp, so it is left unloaded.
When gluing a shield from several sheets of plywood, you can do without clamps if you put the structure on flat surface and evenly press over the entire plane with some kind of load. After the glue dries, the clamps or the load are removed and proceed to the next step in the manufacture of the workbench with their own hands.
So that the tabletop has a strict geometric shape, when cutting it parquet you have to be very careful. A rule can be used as a guide rail for a saw. When cutting the tabletop to dimensions of 1500x600 mm, maintain 90 ° angles using a carpenter's square or using the factory corners left when cutting plywood as a template. Dissolve the remaining scraps of the plywood shield into strips 150 mm wide. You will need them to reinforce the tabletop around the perimeter, so glue them around the entire edge of the tabletop in two layers. In this case, the upper strips should overlap the joints of the lower pieces of plywood.
For the manufacture of underframe use a bar with a section of 40x60 mm. At the same time, the tsargs and prolegs are made of solid lumber, and the supports are glued from two segments and one whole beam. The height of the workbench is chosen taking into account your height, since when using it there should be no inconvenience and discomfort. In our case, the height of the workbench from the floor to the top surface of the tabletop is 900 mm.
Next, glue the legs and assemble two frames. In this case, it is important to observe the perpendicularity of the connections, since when deviating from right angle the geometry of the structure will be broken. It will be easier to achieve this condition if, even at the trimming stage, the angles of all parts are strictly at 90 °. In our workbench, the frame width is 900 mm and the height of the support legs is 830 mm. The gap from the floor to the bottom prong should be 150 mm.
After the glue has dried, the frames are mounted on the countertop and fastened with clamps. Then the legs are set strictly at an angle of 90 degrees to the bottom surface of the plywood shield and another set of prolegs and tsargs are cut out. For fixing the structure to the tabletop, self-tapping screws 8x120 mm are used.
You can increase the stability of the workbench if the prolegs and drawers are additionally fastened with the same self-tapping screws. By choosing a recess for the head of the hardware with a pen drill, they ensure the aesthetics of the joints.
The workbench is almost ready. If desired, a box for storing tools can be made in its underframe.
Do-it-yourself metal workbench for the garage
The workbench made of steel has the necessary strength and reliability, which are required when working with metal products. Such a desktop can add functionality to any garage or workshop.
Materials and tools
To start making a workbench in the garage with your own hands, you should acquire the following locksmith tools:
- angle grinder with cutting and grinding discs;
- welding machine;
- building level;
- electric jigsaw;
- drill with a set of drills;
- screwdriver;
- measuring tool.
Do-it-yourself metal workbench drawings
Some of the materials that are needed for the workbench can be found in the garage, and the missing parts can be bought in the construction market. You will need:
- steel corners 50x50x4 and 40x40x2;
- profile pipe 60x40x2;
- steel strip 40x4 mm;
- steel sheets 2200x750x2 mm;
- boards 50 mm thick;
- 15mm plywood and drawer rails;
- metal screws and bolts.
Also, prepare the paint and rust converter to make the product look aesthetically pleasing and the metal to be protected from moisture.
Step-by-step instructions for making a metal workbench
cutting material. A profile pipe is cut into the frame. The steel corner is used to strengthen the structure and edging the table top. The metal strip is needed as guides for the side panels and for the manufacture of drawer brackets.
Frame welding. From pipes 2200 and 750 mm long, connected in pairs, a rectangular tabletop frame is mounted. At the same time, it is taken into account that on top of the frame it will be necessary to weld the corners into which the boards of the working surface are laid. To strengthen the frame, segments are welded every 400 mm steel pipes as stiffeners.
How to make a workbench with your own hands from metal. Photo
Support legs 900 mm long are mounted along the edges of the table by welding, which are reinforced at the bottom with jumpers from a corner or a profile pipe.
On both sides, the frames of the drawers of the workbench are welded to the legs.
Corners for edging are installed on the frame of the tabletop, after which they are fixed with a welding joint.
From a corner with a length of 2200 mm and 4 corners with a length of 950 m, a crate of a power vertical panel for a tool is equipped.
The finished frame is strengthened steel bar brackets, which are welded to its sidewalls. For strengthening, 24 elements are required. Additionally, it is required to drill holes in each strip for mounting the side and rear plywood walls.
Plywood is cut into pieces for the manufacture of boxes, after which they are assembled using self-tapping screws. The number of boxes and their location depends on the specific needs and personal preferences of the owner.
After assembling the drawers, metal strips with holes for attaching the slide are welded to the sidewalls of the frame.
All welds and sharp corners they pass with a grinder with a peeling wheel installed, and the rusty sections of rolled metal are cleaned with a metal brush-nozzle.
The metal frame is treated with an anti-corrosion compound and painted with weather-resistant paint.
The boards are cut along the length of the countertop and placed in a frame from a corner. To prevent rotting and damage to wood by insects, the boards are treated antiseptic composition.
The lumber is placed in a prepared bed, leaving gaps of 2-3 mm between the wood and the metal to allow the wood to expand when it swells. After that, the boards are screwed with self-tapping screws.
The upper steel sheet is treated on both sides with a rust converter, and after drying, it is attached to wooden table top self-tapping screws.
They paint the drawers of the table and install them on the rails, and also attach the side and back plywood sheathing.
After the workbench is made, install a vice and more necessary equipment, attach hooks to accommodate the tool.
What is a workbench
The workbench is a table designed for work related to the manufacture and installation of products made of wood, metal and other materials. Often, workbenches are additionally equipped with equipment for fastening workpieces, drawers and shelves for storing tools and accessories. Depending on the intended purpose, carpentry and locksmith workbenches for working with wood and metal are distinguished, respectively. Work tables for workshops and garages can be single or multiple. Workbenches designed for one workplace have a width of up to 0.8 m and a length of up to 1.5 m. The dimensions of multi-seat locksmith tables increase according to the number of people working behind them. The distance of the working surface from the floor is usually 0.8 - 0.9 m, however, there are also designs with adjustable height. Workbenches are most often made of metal or wood, and their countertops are covered with sheets of plywood, hardboard, galvanized sheet, boards and other materials.
1. Glue the front beam from several layers A and trim to final size (Fig. 1 And 1a). Then cut grooves in it with a width of 19 and a depth of 41 mm (Fig. 1a, photo A And IN).
Brief advice! Do not glue the parts of the milling jig-template, and fasten them only with screws. The template will again be needed to slot into the rear vise block which is wider than the cover front bar.
From a couple of pieces of thick board and 12 mm thick material, assemble a simple jig for milling at an angle of 2 ° grooves, which will become holes for the bench stops.
When cutting slots in the front bar with a 12mm helical cutter and 19mm guide sleeve, remove material little by little, gradually increasing the depth.
2. Cut out the overlay IN and glue it to the front beam, aligning the right ends of the parts. Carefully remove the squeezed out excess glue.
3. Using the template usually supplied with the front vise, mark and drill the holes for the rods. (photo C, fig. 1).
Position the mounting template so that the vise holes do not intersect with the bench rest holes in the A/B front bar. Mark the centers of the holes with an awl.
Note. This project uses a front and back viseLee Valley. They differ good quality workmanship, smooth operation and come with detailed instruction by installation.
4. Now make the cover shield WITH, lower pads for the front D and rear E vice, spacer F and rear bar G. Glue the trims, back rail, spacer and front rail to the lid (Fig. 1).
5. Make the left and right tips H, I (Fig. 2). Form tongues 36 mm wide and 57 mm deep along one side of the tips and drill 12 mm holes.
Brief advice! To quickly make clean and tidy sheet piles, remove most of the material with a slotted disk and then smooth the sides and bottom with a router table.
6. Mill on the ends of the cover A-G rebate on both sides 57 mm wide and 36 mm deep (photoD), to form combs that are inserted into the tongues of the tips H, I.
Use the tip as a guide to cut the folds on the lid. Be careful not to hit the front trim B with the cutter.
7. Place the left tip on the comb H by pushing it to the front pad IN. Right tip I align with the front edge of the shield WITH. Mark the centers of the 12mm holes (photo E). Remove the tips and use the awl to mark other centers, moving them 1.5 mm closer to the shoulders of the combs (photoF). Draw parallel lines 6 mm apart on either side of each mark left by the awl so that the distance between the lines is 12 mm.
Use the point of a 12 mm drill to transfer the centers of the holes in the tips H, I to the ridges of the cover.
Move the centers of the holes 1.5 mm closer to the shoulders of the comb so that when driving in the dowels, the tip with the cover is pulled tighter.
With a thin round rasp, process all holes except the first. Do not go beyond the parallel lines so that the parts fit snugly.
8. Drill 12 mm holes according to the marking. Then, starting at the second hole (counting from the front edge of the lid), increase it 2mm on both sides without going beyond the parallel lines to make an oval 16mm long. Do the same with other holes, increasing the length of each next by 1.5 mm in both directions (photoG, rice. 2). This will allow the lid to change its width with seasonal fluctuations in humidity. In the right tip I cut 57x165mm flush with the bottom of the spacer F and the end of the bottom lining E.
9. Put on the tips H, I on the combs and secure with 12mm hardwood dowels, driving them into the holes without using glue. Saw off the protruding ends of the dowels flush with the upper and lower edges of the tips.
Brief advice! To facilitate the installation of tips, take dowels of increased length and make narrowing at their ends.
Add a vise
1. From scraps, assemble a frame that will limit the area of movement of the router when selecting a recess in the bottom plate D for front vice (photo H). Mark the recess so that it is located 70 mm from the front edge of the cover, and its middle coincides with the center big hole for the vice screw.
Use a 12mm ascending cutter to select a 57x305x406mm recess for the vise mechanism. Rearrange as necessary the trim supporting the router.
Peel off the back plate to slide the vise mechanism into place. Then install it again, and the operation can be considered completed.
2. Cut out the block J for the movable jaw of the front vice. Drill holes in the block, marking them with the template used earlier, positioning it so that the left end of the block is aligned with the left edge of the cover.
3. Mill along the ends of the movable jaw J shouldered fillets and attach the front vise to the cover following the directions in the instructions (photo I). Install the stock handlebar in place.
4. Cut out the block according to the indicated dimensions TO for rear clamps. Remake the milling fixture that was used before and form grooves in the block with a width of 19 and a depth of 41 mm at an angle (Fig. 3 And 3a).
5. Cut out the overlay L for rear clamps. Drill in the block TO 10mm through holes with 25mm counterbores (Fig. 3 And Behind). Pressing the overlay against the block with clamps, mark the centers of the holes on it with a 10 mm drill through the holes in the block. Then drill holes with a diameter of 16 mm at the marked points. Note. Our method is slightly different from the one described in the instructions and requires the use of washers and plugs that are not included in the vise package. In doing so, we hid the bolt heads under the plugs rather than leaving them in plain sight.
6. Glue the overlay L to the block K (photoJ) and carefully remove any extruded adhesive from the bench stop holes.
Align the holes of the block K exactly with the holes of the pad L. In order not to spend a lot of time removing excess glue, apply it evenly in a thin layer.
7. Attach the assembled block K/L together with the rear vice mechanism in place, following the instructions. Close the bolt heads with plugs and install the standard handle-lever.
Make bench stops
1. Saw according to the dimensions indicated in the "List of Materials" 17 stops M and 17 springs N. For the stops, we chose cherry wood, as it retains the required strength for a long time, does not leave dents on the details, and its color contrasts well with the wood white oak from which the workbench cover is made. For springs, dense and elastic wood, such as maple, is suitable.
2. To give the stops the desired shape, make copies of the template, increasing them by 2 times. Then glue the springs to the stops. Check how the assembled stops fit into the holes and adjust if necessary. They should be removed and recessed without much effort and at the same time remain at the desired height. To learn more about them, read the article "Bench stops" published in this issue of the magazine.
Let's go to the base
Note. Before you start making, measure and record the dimensions of the recess on the underside of the lid. The top of the cabinet base should fit snugly into this recess. If it fails to fit, you will need to resize it to fit the recess or widen the edges of the recess for final assembly.
1. According to the dimensions indicated in the “List of Materials”, cut out the shelves ABOUT, partitions R and edge trims Q, R. Glue lining to shelves and partitions (Fig. 4). Then glue the shelves O/Q to partitions P/R and secure with additional screws.
2. Sawing plinth boards S and kings T, glue them to the O-R divider shelf assembly.
3. From 19mm cherry veneered plywood, cut out the side and back walls U, V. Glue in place first side walls, securing with additional screws, then add the back wall, using only glue to fasten it.
4. Note. Check the dimensions of the assembled body before sawing out the crossbeams, uprights and overlays and make sure that the lengths listed in the Materials List are appropriate for your project. We advise you to cut out the detailsW— GG with a slight allowance in length, and then fit them in place.
Cut out the top and bottom rails W, X, as well as racks Y (Fig. 5). Glue the top and bottom rails to the front of the base, then add the uprights.
5. Now cut out the back rails Z, AA, racks BB, mullions SS and side rails DD, EE. Glue the bottom back bar AA and mullions to the back wall V (photo K). Then glue the back upper crossbar and racks, then the side bottom rails with mullions to the side walls, and finally the upper side rails and racks.
Use a couple of thick, even-edged blocks to press the SS center pieces more firmly against the back wall.
6. Mill 10 mm chamfers at the corners of the body, ending at the joints of the crossbeams with the uprights (Fig. 6).
Before connecting the plinth boards, you need to saw the bevels on the slats glued on top. After that, you can start milling fillets.
7. From the 19mm cherry boards, cut the side, front and back plinth boards FF, GG specified length with an allowance of about 3 mm in width. Then saw off a 19 x 19 mm strip from the top edge of each plinth board and mark the pieces to put them in place later. Finally, make connections dovetail" to fasten the plinth boards (Fig. 6a).Note. If instead of dovetail spikes you decide to make simple connections paus, saw out the plinth boards of the specified width (without allowance) and do not saw off the lath from above.
8. File the miter bevels on the slats for the side plinths only, without shortening them. Glue each of them to the corresponding part from which it was sawn off. Then glue the slats without bevels to the front and back plinth boards. Bevel only the top of the front and back plinth boards so that they fit snugly into the side plinth boards. The bevel edge should be close to the marking line, and the exact mating of the parts can be achieved by fitting, removing the material little by little (photoL). Next, cut a 19mm fillet with a 3mm offset along the top edge of all plinth boards.
9. Glue the plinth boards to the base. You may have to use screws or nails to fasten them if you made bevels at their ends instead of dovetails.
Add doors
1. Cut out the crossbars HH, racks II and panels JJ specified dimensions (Fig. 7).
2. Make dowels 6 mm wide and 12 mm deep centered on the inner edges of all uprights and rungs. Then form spikes 6 mm thick and 12 mm long at the ends of the crossbars.
3. Assemble the doors by gluing the posts, rails and panels together. When the glue is dry, check how the doors fit into the base opening and adjust if necessary. Then mill 5×5 mm seams on the upper and lower edges of the doors with inside, as well as 10 × 5 mm folds on racks where there are no loops. These rebates leave enough space between the doors and the cabinet for the installation of magnetic latches.
Attach the doors to the cabinet with the hinges and put the magnetic latches in place.
Lower the lid onto the base
1. Invite three well-built buddies to use them to lift the heavy bench top and place it on the base. There is no need to fix it - thanks to its massiveness and precise fit, it is well kept in place.
2. Once you've set up your new workbench in your workshop, immediately move on to your next project so you can enjoy your time in the workshop even more!
The garage is a multifunctional space. In it, you can install and repair cars, design and make various things and mechanisms with your own hands.
If a person likes to spend time in the garage, doing repair work, you need to properly equip your workplace. A workbench is a multifunctional desktop that can be used to process various materials, carry out locksmith, electromechanical and installation work. Also in the design of the workbench, you can think of shelves and drawers to store tools and other items.
Types of workbenches
Workbenches are made for processing metal (locksmith) and wood (carpentry). The designs differ in the material of the countertops. For locksmith models, the countertop must necessarily be metal, since working with metal involves the use of engine oil and other liquids that are on wooden surface may leave traces.
Also, when processing metal parts, effort is often required, the use of a sharp tool, so it is best to equip the workbench with a metal worktop.
Carpentry workbenches are designed to work with wood, so they are not as durable and functional as locksmith models.
Workbench design
If the design of the desktop in the garage is made by hand, then first of all you need to carefully consider every detail, figure out where the tools will be placed, what work will be carried out on the workbench. The model of the table in the garage depends on this.
Standard models are often equipped drawers which can be made from wood or metal. Also, the design of the table can be supplemented with shelves, a power shield for hanging tool which will always be at hand. But most importantly, the workbench must be stable, durable and reliable.
Tool
Screwdriver.
Jigsaw for cutting plywood.
Bulgarian with a circle for cutting metal and a grinding disc.
Welding machine and electrodes. Overalls and protective devices for welding.
materials
Corner 50 mm by 50 mm, thickness 4 mm, length 6.4 m.
Square pipe 60 mm by 40 mm, thickness 2 mm, length 24 m.
Corner 40 mm by 40 mm, thickness 4 mm, length 6.75 m.
Steel strip 40 mm wide, 4 mm thick, 8 m long.
Steel sheet for countertop 2200 mm by 750 mm. Thickness 2 mm.
Steel sheet for making drawer holders. Thickness 2 mm.
Wooden boards for countertops. Thickness 50 mm.
Plywood for the manufacture of drawers and for the side and back walls of the table. Thickness 15mm
Guides for drawers.
Screws for assembling plywood boxes.
Self-tapping screws for metal.
Anchor bolts.
Paint for wood and metal.
The workbench that will be made from these materials has quite impressive dimensions: the table is 220 cm long and 75 cm wide. different ends vise table and, for example, emery or other tool.
The first step in the manufacture of a workbench is cutting the available material into elements. profile pipe intended for the manufacture of the frame. The steel corner is designed to create stiffeners. It is cut into pieces and a power frame is formed from it. Also, a steel corner is needed for edging the tabletop on which the boards will be laid.
The steel strip is intended for the manufacture of guides on which the side panels will be attached. Also, this material will go to the brackets for attaching boxes and plywood.
Table drawers are made of plywood.
The second step is welding power frame workbench. The elements of the countertop are welded first - 2 pipes 2200 mm long and 2 pipes 750 mm each. The frame must be welded so that another frame of corners can be welded on top of it, into which the tabletop boards will be laid. To reinforce the countertop, it is required to weld a few more steel pipes after 40 cm, which will act as stiffeners.
Then 4 side legs are welded along the edges of the workbench. Their length is 900 mm. Power jumpers are welded between the legs, strengthening the structure.
After the base frame is ready, you can start welding the structure for the boxes. To do this, square frames are formed from steel pipes, which are welded to the tabletop on both sides of the table. Frames are reinforced with longitudinal stiffeners.
The third step is to make a frame for the countertop. Two steel corners, 2200 mm long and two more corners 750 mm long, are needed to make the frame. The structure is welded so that wooden boards lie inside it.
The frame from the corner is laid on the frame of pipes and welded. It turns out a reinforced tabletop, 8 cm high with internal stiffeners.
The metal frame of the workbench is almost ready, it remains to weld the crate of the panel for attaching the tool. This requires one metal corner with a length of 2200 mm and 4 corners with a length of 950 mm. Two elements are attached to the sides of the structure and two in the middle, for reinforcement. The toolbar is welded to the worktop.
The frame of the corners and pipes is ready. You can start strengthening the structure. Brackets are welded to the sidewalls of the table, which are cut from a steel strip. A total of 24 parts are needed. A hole is drilled in the middle of each bracket. Through these holes, the side and rear walls plywood tables will be attached to metal frame workbench.
The fourth stage is the manufacture of drawers for the table. Plywood is cut into blanks, which are twisted with screws. The number of drawers depends on what will be stored in the table. If small parts, then you can build 3 boxes, if large - then 2. It all depends on personal preference.
Drawers can be arranged on two sides of the table, can be mounted on one half retractable structures, and on the second - the usual open shelves.
After the drawers are assembled, metal strips with holes need to be welded between the sides of the drawer compartments. Slides for drawer guides will be attached to these holes on the inside.
The fifth stage is laying the boards in the tabletop frame. Boards with a thickness of 50 mm are cut into blanks of a certain length. If a long board is available, then you need three blanks 245 mm wide and 2190 mm long. If there are no long boards available, then you can lay the blanks across the table. For this purpose, wood 205 mm wide is cut into 10 blanks 740 mm long.
Before laying the wood in the table frame, it must be treated with an antiseptic solution. This will protect the material from rotting and damage by beetles.
Then, without fail, it is required to paint the entire metal structure workbench. This will protect the metal from corrosion. It is best to use a weatherproof and anti-corrosive coating option. Be especially careful when painting welding seams. Drops of metal and bumps are recommended before painting work clean thoroughly. This can be done using an angle grinder with a metal grinding disc.
After the structure is dry, you can start laying the boards on the countertop. They should not be driven too tightly into the frame. This is due to the fact that the tree tends to expand and shrink with a change in temperature and humidity. It is better to leave a small gap of a few millimeters between the boards. The surface of the wood needs to be sanded, this will make it easier to lay the metal sheet on top of the wood. Boards around the entire perimeter of the table are screwed to the frame with self-tapping screws.
The sixth stage is the fastening of the upper steel sheet. It can be welded to the countertop, but there is wood inside the structure, which can ignite during the welding process. Therefore, it is best to attach the steel sheet with hidden self-tapping screws to wooden planks. Previously, the metal must be painted on both sides with a rust converter. This covering material looks like a transparent paint coating, is easily restored and reliably protects the metal from rust. You can also paint the metal countertop with the same paint that covered the frame. It will be beautiful, but over time, the paint may scratch and the table will not look too new.
The last step is to install the boxes on the rails and fasten the plywood to the side walls, shelves and power shield in front of the table. This work can be called finishing workbench. After work with plywood is over, it must be coated with a compound that will protect the material from exposure environment. Also, do not forget about the design of the power shield for tools. You can attach special hooks or screws to it, to which the necessary things will be hung.
In order to make it convenient to work at the workbench, you can attach a special lamp with a bending stand to the power shield. In this case, you can optionally direct the flow of light to the right place.
Video - The process of making a workbench
Installing a vice on a locksmith's workbench
A vice is an indispensable attribute of a locksmith's workbench. It is not recommended to attach a clamping tool weighing several tens of kilograms to the tabletop itself. It is best to place a metal gasket between the metal of the table and the tool, 1 cm thick. It is required to drill holes for the anchor bolts in the gasket. Then, in the same places, drill holes in the countertop of the same size. The whole structure is fastened with anchor bolts.
Safety requirements for a homemade workbench design
- If the area of \u200b\u200bthe garage is not too large, then you can make a smaller table for plumbing work with your own hands. But, it is worth knowing that the whole structure must be stable, not sway or budge with little effort.
- The workplace should be organized in such a way that nothing interferes with a person. When working with a vise, all unnecessary tools should be removed from the countertop.
- The corners and protruding parts of the table should not be too sharp and have cutting edges.
- After repair work behind the workbench, you need to clean the workplace from metal shavings, drops of oil and other materials.
- If homemade workbench made correctly, it can easily withstand a load of 200 kg.
Shield plywood
Video - Do-it-yourself workbench in the garage
