Mixer      03/26/2019

How to care for homemade chrysanthemum. Chrysanthemum in a pot: photo, how to care for it at home

One of the most spectacular decorations of the terrace is a chrysanthemum in a pot; caring for this flower at home is easy, and it looks very elegant, in literally transforming the surrounding space. Caring for it both indoors and outdoors will be exactly the same, only unlike garden flowers, indoor flowers are small in size. So how to care for it in a pot? Let's try to figure this out.

What to look for when buying chrysanthemums in a pot

Chrysanthemums are presented in such quantities on the markets that choosing just one bush is not easy. But try to be very careful, because success directly depends on how picky you are. Never buy chrysanthemums with fully blossomed inflorescences - specimens whose inflorescences are no more than half blossomed will bloom better and longer.

The bushes should be fully formed, powerful, the shoots should be woody below, and the leaves should be healthy. Please note that yellowing of foliage and spots on leaves and shoots are unacceptable.

What chrysanthemums are grown in pots?

For growing in room conditions and low-growing varieties of Chinese or mulberry chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum x morifolium) are suitable for balconies. These are abundantly flowering bushes, reaching a height of 15-70 cm. They can be large-flowered (flower diameter 2.5-5 cm) or small-flowered (flower diameter up to 2.5 cm). The flowering forms of Chinese chrysanthemums can also be different. In home culture, varieties of the “Charm” form (“Red Charm”, “Yellow Charm”, etc.) are popular, blooming with a huge head of basket-inflorescences of different colors. Low “Minimum” are also good - dwarf bush chrysanthemums, barely growing to 15-20 cm in height. But the so-called “Cascade” ampel forms (“White Cascade”, “Pink Cascade”, etc.) are of particular interest to collectors.

In addition to mulberry chrysanthemum in closed ground low-growing varieties of Korean chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum x koreanum) are cultivated. The spherical shape of the bush is distinguished by Korean chrysanthemums of the Multiflora series, which in the fall turn into bright flowering pillows. Popular varieties are “Orange Jam”, “Navare”, “Stella”, etc. Due to their resemblance to flowering balls, specimens from the multiflora series are called spherical chrysanthemums.

Indian chrysanthemums (Chrysanthemum x indicum L.) in pots are available for sale. These plants in our latitudes were originally intended for growing indoors. Their habitats: room window sills, glazed balconies, greenhouses, winter gardens. Varieties: “Altgold”, “Snow Elf”, “Aurora”, “Ellen”, etc.

Soil and pot for indoor chrysanthemums

If the plant was purchased in a store or nursery, then most likely it was already in a pot and with the correct soil. For some time, until it fades, the plant can be left alone. And then the container needs to be replaced with a larger one, and the soil needs to be updated. For chrysanthemums, ceramic or plastic pots are most often used; the main thing is to choose a stable shape and check for a drainage hole.

Perfect for chrysanthemums ready soil For flowering plants, which is sold in stores and garden centers. Although many gardeners believe that it is better to prepare it yourself, since this is the only way to ensure maximum results. With all the advantages of this method, it has one significant drawback: it is more labor-intensive. For 2 parts of turf soil you need to take 1 part of leaf soil, humus and coarse sand, and then this mixture must also be disinfected. If the mixture is prepared independently, and the soil is taken literally from the garden, then it needs to be calcined in the oven or poured boiling water over it, and then dried to its normal state. Disinfection is also carried out using a solution of potassium permanganate.

Propagation of chrysanthemums in pots

Many gardeners mistakenly believe that chrysanthemum growing at home annual plant, and after flowering they throw it away. But this is a big mistake, since the plant can be preserved and subsequently propagated. This is done in three ways:

  • cuttings;
  • dividing the bush;
  • using seeds.

The first two methods are the simplest and most successful. Planting this flower is a fairly simple process. Many gardeners plant several cuttings in one pot, resulting in abundant flowering

Where to place a chrysanthemum in a pot

You should not install the chrysanthemum on the windowsill on the south side. This plant does not tolerate too much heat. Direct sunlight will definitely cause him burns. But it is not recommended to place a chrysanthemum pot in the shade. In this case, its flowering will be very poor. It is best to place the chrysanthemum next to the window, but in such a way that it is in partial shade.

How to fertilize a chrysanthemum in a pot

So, we figured out how to plant this plant correctly. Now let's see how to care for a chrysanthemum in a pot. Of course, this plant, like any other, should be periodically watered and fertilized. Fertilizing is applied some time after transplanting into a small pot. In this case, it is usually not organic matter that is used, but special remedy– crystallon solution. This fertilizer is developed specifically for chrysanthemums and contains magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, molybdenum, nitrogen and zinc. Such rich feeding has a beneficial effect on the root system of the plant. You can also use a not too strong solution of mullein as a fertilizer. When watering, it is important for them to ensure that splashes do not fall on the leaves.

Watering chrysanthemums in a pot

Successful cultivation of chrysanthemums requires first of all proper watering. Chrysanthemum is moisture-loving, so the soil in its pot should be slightly moist all the time. Caring for chrysanthemums at home involves moistening the soil during active growth at least twice a week. Make sure that the earthen ball does not dry out, but you should also not allow excess moisture in the pot and tray.

In hot weather, it is advisable to spray the chrysanthemum in the morning or in the evening from a spray bottle. This is not to say that the flower needs spraying so much, but this procedure refreshes the plant and adds to its attractiveness.

How to trim a chrysanthemum in a pot

Chrysanthemums need to be trimmed after flowering. During this period, it is necessary to remove all regrown stems without affecting the young shoots. In spring, pruning is also recommended before replanting. The rest of the time, to extend the flowering period, you just need to remove the yellowed leaves of the plant.

Diseases and pests of chrysanthemums in a pot

  • Spider mite. If cobwebs are found on the leaves, the entire surface of the plant is treated with a soap solution, and then washed under warm water in the shower.
  • Powdery mildew. A fungus in the form of a gray coating on the leaves of a plant. It is eradicated using a fungicide and quarantining the plant in a dry room.
  • Gray rot. Looks like fluffy layer gray on sheets. You can remove it by spraying the leaves with foundationazole.
  • Septoria. It looks like a brown spot on a plant leaf. The plant needs to be watered less and treated with foundationazole.

Surely you know how chrysanthemums bloom. These incredibly beautiful, delicate and colorful flowers delight the eyes of gardeners and summer residents. Chrysanthemums can be red, purple, yellow, pink, white. But what if you don’t have a plot of land where you can grow this miracle? There is no need to despair, chrysanthemum can be grown in a pot, right on your windowsill.

Garden chrysanthemum in a pot

Many novice gardeners are surprised whether it is possible to grow garden chrysanthemum in a pot? After all, a real chrysanthemum is quite large in size, its stem reaches more than a meter in length. The fact is that chrysanthemums are grown only dwarf varieties, which do not grow, but are formed by shrubs. Along with this, such chrysanthemums are treated with retardants. These are means that retard the growth of a plant in length. Thanks to this treatment, the chrysanthemum grows in width, that is, it forms a lush, luxurious bush. In addition, do not be afraid to trim the chrysanthemum stem before the buds appear. This is done in order to suppress the growth of a tall stem and form a bush from the plant. But before that, you need to understand in detail how to grow a chrysanthemum from scratch in a pot.

Planting chrysanthemums

  1. Planting and replanting chrysanthemum in early spring when the plant is still dormant. To plant a chrysanthemum, you can take a sprout from the garden, that is, plant a very ordinary chrysanthemum in a pot. You can replant the plant that you removed for wintering into a new pot. If you want to grow chrysanthemum from seeds, you will need to first grow the seedlings in greenhouse conditions.
  2. Chrysanthemum reproduces well by cuttings and dividing the bush. The last method is the most acceptable, since if you have your own roots, the chrysanthemum almost always takes root.
  3. To grow chrysanthemums, you need to take nutritious soil with sufficient breathability. You need to put drainage at the bottom of the pot - expanded clay pebbles or brick shards. Four parts of garden soil should be mixed with one part of chicken or cow manure, one part of sand and four parts of turf soil. This substrate is placed in a pot and the chrysanthemum is planted so that its roots are completely in the soil.
  4. If you are replanting an adult chrysanthemum, please note that the new pot should be large in size. In the first 3-4 years, the chrysanthemum should be replanted every year, after which replanting may be less frequent.
  5. As soon as you have “settled” the plant in a new place, it should be placed on open air– balcony, loggia, window sill on the outside of the window. But only if the temperature outside has already stabilized above zero.

Despite the fact that a chrysanthemum in a pot is still the same garden flower, caring for it is slightly different from the classic one.

  1. Watering. Chrysanthemum loves water and the plant needs to be watered 2-3 times a week, depending on the amount and intensity of sunlight. Chrysanthemum does not tolerate drying out and immediately dies from it. It is best to water the flower when the top of the soil dries out. In winter, the intensity of watering is significantly reduced. If you store the chrysanthemum at low temperatures, watering the plant once a month is enough. Excessive watering of chrysanthemums at any time of the year can lead to rotting of the roots. In the summer, you can spray the flower a couple of times a week - this will make it grow better.
  2. Temperature. Chrysanthemum is a fairly non-capricious plant; it calmly survives temperature changes. However, it blooms and develops best in summer at a temperature of 22-24 degrees. The optimal winter temperature is 6-8 degrees. The plant can survive minor frosts down to -3 degrees.
  3. Illumination. When choosing a place for your flower, it is very important to find a natural balance. If you place the chrysanthemum in direct sunlight, the plant will dry out and the flowers will fade too quickly. If you place the plant on the north side, the buds may simply not open. Optimal choice- these are eastern and western windows, that is, places where the sun's rays hit the flower in the morning or evening. Chrysanthemum blooms in autumn, when daylight hours become short, 8-10 hours. Some experienced flower growers create an artificial environment, forcing the chrysanthemum to bloom. That is, every day they cover the plant with a dark cap, simulating night. This way you can achieve repeated flowering of chrysanthemums within a year.
  4. Feeding. Chrysanthemums should be fertilized no earlier than two weeks after transplantation. If you added droppings to the substrate, it means that the chrysanthemum does not need feeding for about two more months. In general, the flower needs to be fertilized only in spring, summer and autumn, when the chrysanthemum is actively growing and blooming. In winter, feeding is stopped. Plants need to be fertilized with compounds containing nitrogen and phosphorus.
  5. Flower molding. Often in flower shops they sell incredibly beautiful chrysanthemums in the form of a blooming ball. To achieve such a figure, the chrysanthemum needs to be formed in time. To do this, you need to pinch the plant in those places where it goes beyond the frame of the figure. This not only shapes the appearance of the future flower, but also increases the number of young shoots on the plucked branch. Usually in the spring-summer period two or three moldings are enough.
  6. Wintering. When the chrysanthemum has faded, it must be properly sent for wintering so that next spring it will delight you with young green shoots. To do this, all faded buds, dry leaves and stems must be cut off. The plant should have cuttings no more than 10-15 cm in height. After this, the flower along with the pot should be placed in a cool room - entrance, basement, garage. Chrysanthemums can also be transplanted into open ground for the winter. To do this, the plant is dug up along with the root system, planted in the soil, sprinkled with dry soil and leaves. However, this does not guarantee that the flower will survive. In the spring, when the first young leaves appear, the flower can be planted back into the pot.

Chrysanthemum blooms almost always. But if in the fall, with the decrease in daylight hours, the plant still does not please you with flowering, it means that the care was incorrect. Pay attention to the lighting. Chrysanthemum will not bloom if it does not have enough sun. Also, the plant will not please you with flowering if you have not fed it - the plant does not bloom in poor soil with a lack of phosphorus and potassium.

It is important to note that the last pinching should be in the summer. If you pinch your chrysanthemum too late, there is a chance that you are cutting off branches that were intended to produce buds. Don’t delay with molding, and if you didn’t have time to do it in the summer, don’t touch the chrysanthemum so as not to lose its flowering completely.

What does chrysanthemum suffer from?

Like other house flowers, chrysanthemum can be susceptible to diseases and pests. Most often you can find spider mites on chrysanthemum bushes. You can easily recognize its presence by its thin and sticky web. In this case, immediate treatment is required. The easiest way is to wipe with soap. Dilute in warm water soap solution and gently wipe all the leaves and stems of the plant with it. After this, rinse the indoor flower in the shower, choosing light streams so that the water does not damage the bush.

If you notice a gray coating on your chrysanthemums, it means that the plant is sick with powdery mildew. This is one of the most common ailments. In this case, a fungicide, which is sold in flower shops, will help. Chemical composition diluted in water according to the instructions, and then sprayed on the plant. Usually one treatment is enough. Powdery mildew affects the flower at high humidity. After processing, you should move the pot to a drier room.

If the edges of the chrysanthemum leaves turn brown and the stems have an ashy coating, it means that the plant has become sick with gray rot. Here you will need treatment with foundationazole. But if the air in the room is too dry, the plant can be affected spider mite. He is being exterminated alcohol tincture garlic

Chrysanthemum – amazing flower autumn. He plays with colors, delighting his owners with various shades. Proper and competent care will allow you to grow this riot of colors at home yourself.

Video: growing chrysanthemums at home

Chrysanthemum is a flower with a very unusual history. Its exact homeland is unknown, there is debate about where this wonderful flower came to us, some say from Japan, others say from China, and others mention all of East Asia.

However, be that as it may, all this does not negate the fact that the chrysanthemum is stunningly beautiful, so beautiful that in Japan the highest award is called the Order of the Chrysanthemum, and one emperor ordered a seal with its image.

Perhaps for this history and its beauty, growing it at home is not so easy, since many factors will influence its beauty and health. All this and much more is written below.

Chrysanthemum home - description

Chrysanthemum domestica has a short stature. This is due to the fact that it is grown artificially in greenhouses, where its growth is stopped with special equipment for decorative purposes.

Some have had to deal with the fact that when they bought a cutting and tried to grow it, they ended up with a large bush that looked more like a garden bush than a home bush. In this regard, it is worth saying a few words about how to choose the right homemade chrysanthemums in pots.

First of all, take a close look at the appearance of the plant. It should be strong, dense, the leaves should be well developed, and there should be no insects on the trunk. This will allow her to quickly get used to home conditions. This way it will not become infected and will not affect the growth of other already established flowers.

Which varieties are suitable for growing at home?

Caring for a chrysanthemum in a pot at home is particularly difficult, but if you follow the basic nuances, the plant will delight you with long, lush flowering. Chrysanthemum flowers are often used to create original bouquets. They look great alone or as part of a flower arrangement.

The variety of varieties and varieties will make a bouquet of chrysanthemums a real surprise, allowing you to get away from standard roses and gerberas.

IN Lately It has also become popular to give fresh flowers in a pot. The advantages are obvious: a longer flowering period and the possibility of further breeding. At the same time, it often turns out that after the phase of vegetative activity the plant is considered dead. To prolong the life of your pet and enjoy it for a long time beautiful flowers, you can use the advice in our article and grow a full-fledged indoor plant.

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Home varieties

Of course, ordinary garden crops will not feel comfortable at home. They are too big and cold-loving for this. At the same time, breeders have developed enough varieties of chrysanthemums, the cultivation of which is quite possible in apartment conditions.

Before purchasing, be sure to check this point with the seller, and also take care in advance to create suitable conditions for your pet, which will be discussed a little later.

Varieties of varieties and classification of chrysanthemums

The most common and numerous variety of this flower is korean chrysanthemum. There are many varieties of it, and most have nothing in common with each other. The classification is mainly based on the configuration of leaves and inflorescences. Korean varieties are most often used for growing at home.

Indian chrysanthemum is also very popular; it has more refined shapes and the size of its inflorescences. Room options They are distinguished by a relatively high stem on which a large flower (up to 15 cm in diameter) is located. Most varieties of Indian chrysanthemum are grown as garden plants.

Features of chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemum multiflora is an almost perfect ball with small-sized inflorescences. A characteristic feature is the shape of the flower, as well as numerous buds and active flowering, which lasts from a month to two. After the flowers fall, it is necessary to trim the stems, then bring the pot into the shelter. These shapes can be used to decorate country cottage area, but for wintering it’s better to find enough warm room with good ventilation.

Zembla chrysanthemum is more in demand as a garden crop, but it can also be found among the descriptions indoor plants. Characteristics This plant will have fairly large inflorescences, petals rolled into an incomplete tube and a wide range of colors. The most common are yellow chrysanthemums, but among the selected varieties there are even greenish and blue flowers.

Classification of chrysanthemums

General classification of chrysanthemums:

  • If the size of the inflorescences is less than 80 mm, such varieties are called small-flowered. Large-flowered plants, accordingly, have a much larger diameter.
  • Based on the shape of the inflorescences, they are distinguished between blanket and double-row, double and semi-double. You can find a general name - globular chrysanthemum, which combines several groups with round voluminous inflorescences.
  • According to the flowering period, early, middle and late flowering specimens are distinguished. This classification is important if you also want to collect seeds for further cultivation colors. In late-flowering varieties, they, as a rule, do not have time to ripen, so they are not suitable for planting.
  • The height of the stem also classifies chrysanthemums into border (up to 30 cm) and medium (up to 50 cm in height).
  • The shape of the petals and their arrangement can be chamomile-like, with a pronounced core (usually of a contrasting color). Double flowers do not have this feature, but can attract attention with petals of different lengths and configurations.

It is impossible to describe all the varieties of this flower, much less indicate them all. possible options colors “Classic” white chrysanthemums are not inferior in popularity to roses and tulips, and a variety of rainbow mixes will cheer you up during the cold season.

Popular varieties

Indoor chrysanthemum is more compact in size; when forming a bush, it forms attractive spherical trees. In addition to the purely visual effect, this plant is famous for its positive energy and in many beliefs has earned the fame of a family amulet.

The chrysanthemum is most popular and universally loved in Eastern cultures, especially Japan. There this plant is grown everywhere and is a symbol of wealth, love and prosperity. To successfully grow the Japanese version of a lucky horseshoe at home, you must adhere to certain requirements.

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What to look for when purchasing

Chrysanthemums are presented in such quantities on the markets that choosing just one bush is not easy. But try to be very careful, because success directly depends on how picky you are.

Never buy chrysanthemums with fully blossomed inflorescences - specimens whose inflorescences are no more than half blossomed will bloom better and longer.

The bushes should be fully formed, powerful, the shoots should be woody below, and the leaves should be healthy. Please note that yellowing of foliage and spots on leaves and shoots are unacceptable.

Light mode for potted chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums are crops that require a short daylight hours to bloom abundantly. But this does not mean that they are content with shaded locations.

During the entire period of active development, including flowering, chrysanthemums should be provided with the sunniest and brightest locations, where the plants will not suffer from midday rays or will be shaded from them by neighboring potted plants.

In winter, chrysanthemums are kept in dark rooms (with the exception of specimens that continue to bloom, which are transferred to the brightest locations of the rooms and are planned to be thrown away after flowering)

Temperature conditions

Potted chrysanthemums (both garden and indoor) love cool weather, especially at the flowering stage. These are not the most heat-resistant crops, which are comfortable only in typical autumn conditions. The higher the air temperature, the faster the inflorescences fade and the less chrysanthemums produce new buds.

That is why it is better to keep even miniature indoor plants outdoors during flowering. Optimal temperature regime for potted chrysanthemums - from 10-15 to 17-20 degrees Celsius or a little more.

If chrysanthemums during the flowering period are in temperatures above 21-22 degrees, they will not be able to set buds normally for flowering next year and even cold wintering will not give the expected effect.

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Landing

What to do with a chrysanthemum in a pot - we’ll talk about this a little later. First, let's figure out how to plant it correctly. Material with mother plant cut with a sharp knife. You cannot break off the petioles, otherwise they may not be accepted.

The bush will grow beautiful and lush only if it has a sufficiently developed root system. Therefore, at the very beginning, the petioles are planted in a very large container.

You need to drill several holes at the bottom of the pot for drainage. Garden soil mixed with some organic fertilizer is poured into it.

The question of how to plant a chrysanthemum in a pot comes down to proper preparation soil. Before backfilling, the soil mixture must be subjected to heat treatment. Chrysanthemum is a rather delicate plant that easily becomes infected various kinds viral and fungal diseases.

  • The cut petioles are carefully buried in the ground.
  • After 20-25 days, roots form on them.
  • As soon as this happens, they should be carefully transferred, along with a lump of earth, into a small flower pot.
  • In this case mature plant will take the form of a beautiful lush bouquet.

The same soil is poured into a new pot. That is, they mix nutritious soil with organic fertilizer. You can also use fertilized peat.

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Watering

The purchased chrysanthemum must be watered carefully. On the one hand, this plant is quite demanding when it comes to watering. On the other side, excess moisture may cause root rot or the development of fungal diseases.

To prevent this from happening, you need to ensure good drainage: there must be a hole in the pot, and a layer of gravel or moss at the bottom. This will help remove all excess moisture from the pot.

  • On average, chrysanthemums are watered no more than 2 times a week. You just need to make sure that the earthen ball does not dry out.
  • Spraying the leaves plays an important role; it helps prevent dehydration.
  • Dried leaves must be removed promptly. And healthy leaves are regularly cleaned of dust.

You cannot use regular tap water for irrigation. You need to pass it through a filter and leave it for a couple of days. The water should not be cold, otherwise the plant is at risk of disease.

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Air humidity

Chrysanthemum prefers high humidity. Therefore, the plant should be sprayed regularly. The frequency of spraying is one (two) times a day. If the grower simply does not have a spray bottle, then you can simply place a saucer or jar of water next to your home plantings.

Protection from dust and dirt

Chrysanthemum leaves should be regularly wiped to remove accumulated dust and other contaminants. This can be done with a regular damp cloth. Some gardeners place the pot in the bathtub and gently wash away any accumulated dust using a shower head.

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Caring for chrysanthemums in a pot, applying fertilizers

Fertilization is a mandatory measure, because chrysanthemum requires a lot of nutrients for its development. IN different time different additives should be used each year. They can be divided into:

  • nitrogen;
  • potassium;
  • phosphorus.

Nitrogen fertilizers are used during active flower growth, that is, in spring. These additives are important for the proper formation of shoots and active growth of leaves.

In the summer, they stop fertilizing chrysanthemums with nitrogen fertilizers, since at this time the active growth of the plant stops and preparation for flowering begins.

In mid-August, start feeding potassium supplements with some phosphorus. Closer to October, everything should be the other way around: more phosphorus with the addition of potassium. The plant needs these additives for lush flowering and successful wintering.

Chrysanthemum in a pot, care after flowering

How to care for home chrysanthemums in pots after flowering? When all the buds dry out, they should be removed. Also cut off any dead or damaged branches.

  • After this, gradually reduce watering and place the flower in the place where it will winter.
  • If you want to achieve double flowering, then think about it in advance.
  • In any case, you will have to organize dormant conditions in which the plant will gain strength.

After this, you can expose the flower to heat ahead of time, increase watering, and also adjust changes in daylight hours. All these measures can make the chrysanthemum bloom in late February-early March.

Chrysanthemum in a pot: care at home in winter

How to care for a chrysanthemum in a pot winter time of the year? At this time, the chrysanthemum does not need to be watered heavily, and it should not be fertilized at all. Place the flower in a room with an air temperature of no more than 5 degrees. Such conditions may occur in an unheated storage room or cellar.

Some gardeners believe that indoor chrysanthemum need to be pruned for the winter, as is done in relation to garden flower. But many experts consider this an unnecessary measure, since indoor flower There is no threat of frost or other ups and downs, so there is no need to be afraid that high branches will take too much strength from the flower.

Before wintering, it is advisable to treat the chrysanthemum with antimicrobial agents. They will eliminate the possibility of infecting the flower with pests, which, unlike plants, do not sleep in winter.

How to care for a homemade chrysanthemum in a pot in early spring?

In spring, plants begin to wake up and grow actively. Chrysanthemums in a pot also do this, how to care for them at this time? First of all, you should increase watering of the flower, since it needs moisture for growth. At the same time, you should not make a swamp in the flowerpot. Abundant watering should not turn into a “bay”.

Next, you should think about replanting the plant. This work usually performed in the spring. If the plant is young, then you should choose a larger pot for it than the previous one. For an adult plant, you can leave the same container.

Prepare the soil for chrysanthemums yourself, since store-bought substrates are universal and are rarely suitable for this particular flower. To prepare the soil, take:

  • universal primer;
  • peat;
  • perlite;
  • sand.

Mix all the ingredients so that the soil is loose, but remains nutritious. Pour it into a flowerpot on top of the drainage, which should be mandatory. It eliminates the possibility of water stagnation in the flowerpot.

Replant chrysanthemum better method transshipment. This way its roots are less damaged. After transplantation, the plant is watered a little and placed in a well-lit place.

There is no need to apply fertilizers in the first month after transplantation. They will only harm a plant that is not properly rooted. But after a month you can already water the chrysanthemum with nitrogen fertilizers. They are diluted according to the instructions, which are necessarily given with the drug.

When the chrysanthemum takes root and grows a little, you need to cut off the tops of its branches. This is called “pinching”, and is done so that the plant begins to sprout lateral processes. Thus, a lush bush will be formed. By autumn it will be covered in color and will look very beautiful. You can pinch flowers twice: in early autumn and early summer. Then they begin to prepare the chrysanthemum for flowering.

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How to stimulate chrysanthemum flowering

If a flower lover receives a gift from friends, it is most often a chrysanthemum in a pot. Home care is aimed at prolonging flowering. Chrysanthemums are perennials, and they can bloom for several years in a row if they accumulate good energy reserves. A period of winter dormancy with sufficient light, water and fertilizer will increase the plant's ability to produce new buds.

A simple technique helps stimulate the plant to bloom long and abundantly. Here are the basic techniques:

  • it is necessary to control the light regime of the chrysanthemum. Good vegetative growth requires natural conditions, that is, 9 - 10 hours of darkness. Draping the plant with black fabric creates the illusion of “night” in city apartments, where electricity is often turned on;
  • Water occasionally and generously. The soil should be moist, but not soggy;
  • before flowering, organize the light regime according to the standard 12 hours of darkness - 12 hours of light;
  • provide the plant with a cool atmosphere during the period of bud release. Homemade chrysanthemums in pots need a temperature of 13 - 16 ° C to form a flower;
  • do not forget to pinch the stems;
  • remove all small buds and flower buds, leaving only the large ones, one bud on each stem in the center. This should be done when the buds are still small;
  • When the flowers open as much as possible, choose the most optimal light position for the pot. The chrysanthemum needs to be well watered throughout the flowering period. This way the flowers will last longer;
  • replanting the chrysanthemum in a larger pot will give more space to the roots. The plant will be able to accumulate more nutrients and moisture, which ensures intense flowering. The optimal pot size is 1.8 liters.
The chrysanthemum needs to be well watered throughout the flowering period.

In the spring, as soon as the chrysanthemum releases green shoots, you need to change the soil in the pot. To do this, carefully remove the plant, put clean soil in the pot, place the chrysanthemum in it and water it. During the same period, it is advisable to feed the chrysanthemum with fertilizer. It is better to use nitrogen agents before flowering, and nitrate ones at the time of flowering.

If you have complete information on how to care for a chrysanthemum in a pot, the plant will develop normally and delight the owner with luxurious flowers for several years in a row.

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How to replant chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums, which are given to us in bouquets, are very easy to root. The desire to plant and grow this miracle on your windowsill or on your plot is commendable, but here it is important to follow correct agricultural techniques.

Instructions

  1. If the chrysanthemum is already sitting in your pot, then replanting it in open ground will allow it to take on its natural size and shape. Preparations for replanting a chrysanthemum should begin with its flowering. After flowering, chrysanthemums should be cut off all shoots longer than 10 cm and leave only short petioles. The pot with the plant should be put in a cool room with a temperature of 2-4°C for the winter.
  2. With the onset of spring, new shoots begin to grow and are transferred to a warm room. It is necessary to maintain alternating temperatures for chrysanthemums, otherwise it will not bloom. This time is optimal for transplanting the bush into fresh soil in a pot or flowerbed, as well as for rooting shoots. To root flowers from a bouquet, cuttings that have taken root in water should be cut off at the top, leaving 10 cm, and planted in a pot.
  3. Young plants should be replanted every year in the spring, older ones every two years, and it is better to divide the bushes during replanting. The main thing is that fresh soil for the bush should not be acidic; otherwise, chrysanthemums are not particularly picky about soil. Add a little sand and humus to regular garden soil. During transplantation, the tops of young shoots are pinched, and lignified ones are cut off so that the bush is more branched and even.
  4. Before watering, the lump of earth should be moistened and all dried branches and roots should be removed. Pour drainage into the bottom of the pot, insert the bush in the center and sprinkle with new soil on all sides. In order not to replant the chrysanthemum into a larger pot, divide the bush and plant part of the bush back, of course, adding fresh soil. Afterwards, water the bushes and keep the soil moist, as chrysanthemum loves water.

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Trimming

Chrysanthemums are pruned twice a year. This is done in spring and summer in order to form a beautiful crown of the bush. The first pruning is done in the spring after planting or replanting a flower. The growing point at the top of the shoots is removed from the plant.

  • The side shoots immediately begin to grow actively.
  • Before our eyes, the chrysanthemum turns into a lush, dense bush.
  • About a month later, this procedure is repeated.
  • If yours is growing spherical variety chrysanthemums, then it is not necessary to pinch them.
  • A lush, dome-shaped bush is a varietal feature of these types of chrysanthemum.

The chrysanthemum is pruned again in the fall, after flowering. First of all, dry, diseased and rotten shoots are cut off to keep the rest of the bush healthy. The remaining shoots are also shortened, since the plant will overwinter in spartan conditions - without watering, fertilizing and light. This will make it easier for him to survive during hibernation.

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Propagating chrysanthemums in a pot

Chrysanthemum propagates in 3 ways:

  1. By cuttings.
  2. Dividing the bush.
  3. Seeds.

1. Cuttings

After a rest period, a month before cutting, move the container with the chrysanthemum to a warm, illuminated place (from +10° to +12°).

When 4-6 leaves form on the shoots, you can begin cuttings:

  1. It is better to take a high container, with the expectation that the cuttings will need to be covered for the first time.
  2. Prepare the substrate: humus, garden soil and sand, in this ratio - 1: 2: 0.5, taking into account that upper layer sand should be 2-3 cm. Or take a mixture of perlite and sand, 1:1.
  3. Place drainage at the bottom of the container - expanded clay, pebbles, etc. Pour soil, and on top - a layer of sand of at least 2 cm. Water.
  4. Cut off the tops of the stems 10 cm high, making the lower cut under the internode. Remove the lower leaves.
  5. Dip the cutting in a growth stimulator. And deepen the cuttings 1.5-2 cm into moistened sand at an angle of 45° with a gap of 5 cm between them.
  6. Cover the container with glass or film and place the container with the cuttings in a bright, warm place (t from +17° to +20°).
  7. Make sure that the soil in the container is always moist by spraying it daily.
  8. Cuttings take root in 2 to 4 weeks. As soon as the cuttings take root, as evidenced by the growth that appears on them, the film must be removed.

After 2-3 weeks, chrysanthemums can be planted in pots.

2. Dividing the bush

A simpler and more reliable way to propagate chrysanthemums is to divide the bush during the period of intensive shoot growth.

From one bush of an overwintered plant you can get up to 6 divisions:

  1. Water the bush before dividing.
  2. Pour drainage and a mixture consisting of garden and turf soil, sand and humus into a new pot. Pour the mixture into 2/3 of the container.
  3. Remove the chrysanthemum from the old container, carefully separate the young shoots so that each separated part retains the root.
  4. Place the young shoot in a pot and carefully, trying not to damage the roots, cover it with soil. Do not compact the soil.
  5. After transplanting, carefully water the shoots, preferably with a spray bottle, so as not to accidentally wash away the soil.
  6. Place the container with the shoots in a bright, warm (but not more than +20°) place. Shade from the sun.

After 2-3 weeks, the divisions will take root well.

3. Propagation by seeds

Determine the sowing time by the time of flowering:

  1. Treat the sowing container with a solution of potassium permanganate.
  2. Pour drainage and a mixture of garden soil, sand and humus, 2:0.5:1, into the container.
  3. Moisten the substrate and place the seeds on top. The seeds are not sprinkled with soil, as they need light to germinate. Or sprinkle with a thin layer of light soil.
  4. Cover the container with glass or plastic film and put it in a bright room (t from +10° to +15°).
  5. Moisten the soil only with a spray bottle.
  6. After 7-12 days, shoots will appear. Remove the cover.
  7. After the formation of 4-6 true leaves, pick the plant with a gap of 5-10 cm between them.

A month and a half before flowering, plant chrysanthemums in a permanent place.

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Diseases and pests

Chrysanthemum is a late-flowering perennial, characterized by high immunity to diseases and pests. However, she can also get sick.

In order not to put flowers at risk, it is necessary to carefully monitor their condition and take them in a timely manner. preventive measures. And if it was not possible to avoid the disease, then it is important to know which methods of control are most effective.

Fungal diseases of chrysanthemums

Fungal infections of chrysanthemums are most often caused by poor air circulation, high soil acidity, excess nitrogen fertilizer and high temperature.

Leaf spot, or septoria, of chrysanthemums

The disease manifests itself in the form of spots on the leaves, which initially have yellow, and then gradually become dark brown and black (and may increase in size). The lower leaves are infected first.

Prevention and treatment

  1. The first step is to cut off and destroy the affected leaves.
  2. For prevention purposes, it is necessary to regularly remove and destroy the remains of dead plants in the garden.
  3. If the disease spreads, it is worth using fungicides.

Rust

The infection appears as pale areas on the surface of the leaves, as well as powdery orange spots on the undersides. Severely affected plants become weak and no longer flower properly.

Prevention and treatment

  1. Urgent removal of affected leaves.
  2. Thinning bushes to ensure better ventilation.
  3. When watering, avoid getting moisture on the plants.
  4. If the disease has seriously spread, you need to switch to the use of fungicides.

Wilting chrysanthemum leaves

The first symptoms of Fusarium wilt are yellowing and browning of leaves. Infected plants are stunted and often fail to flower. The fungus penetrates plants from the soil through the roots and blocks the flow of water into the chrysanthemum tissue.

Prevention and treatment

  1. Removal and destruction of all infected plant parts.
  2. Planting wilt-resistant varieties.
  3. If there is already Fusarium fungus in the soil, wilting, then the soil pH should be increased to 6.5 - 7.0.

Powdery mildew

The leaves are covered with a whitish ash-gray powdery coating. Fungal spores love a humid atmosphere; these are favorable conditions for their growth and reproduction.

Prevention and treatment

  1. Removing affected plant material.
  2. Use of fungicides.

To combat fungal infections, copper oxychloride and Bordeaux mixture, Fundazol, and 1% colloidal sulfur are most often used.

Viral diseases of chrysanthemums

Of all the viral diseases, chrysanthemums are the most dangerous mosaic.

Plants infected with the virus have a stunted appearance and yellowed foliage. Infected chrysanthemums are stunted and produce small flowers.

Prevention

  1. Removal and destruction of affected plants.
  2. Timely weed control.

Pests of chrysanthemums

Leaf nematode

Nematodes – unsegmented roundworms, which are barely visible to the naked eye. They overwinter in soil or in infected plant material.

Chrysanthemums affected by the nematode become covered with yellow-brown spots. The pest first damages the lower leaves and gradually spreads up the stem. The yellow-brown spots on the leaves eventually merge and cover the entire leaf, which dies, withers and falls off.

Control measures

  1. Removal of contaminated plant material along with surrounding soil.
  2. In spring, the spread of nematodes will be prevented by mulching.
  3. When watering, avoid getting water on the leaves.
  4. Foliar sprays containing insecticidal soap are quite effective.

Aphids and spider mites

These insidious insects harm many types of indoor and garden flowers.

Aphids feed on the sap of young plant tissues and infect the underside of leaves, buds and flowers. Massive spread of the pest can cause the death of chrysanthemums.

Spider mites spread in hot and dry weather; they suck out the sap from plants, causing the chrysanthemum to dry out, the flowers become discolored, and the leaves fall off.

Control measures

  1. Spider mites and aphids can be removed from the surface of plants with a strong stream of water during watering.
  2. Effective use of insecticides and copper-soap solution (20 g copper sulfate and 200 g of green soap per 10 liters of water).

Now you know how to protect chrysanthemums from dangerous diseases and pests. Don’t forget to properly care for your plants – and they will certainly make your flower garden attractive.

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Queen of autumn - chrysanthemum (in myths and legends)

Many legends are dedicated to this wonderful flower. One of them says that an evil dragon decided to steal the Sun from people; but when he grabbed him, the dragon severely burned his paws. Out of anger, the dragon began to tear and trample fire ball. The sun sparks that fell on the Earth turned into white chrysanthemums...

Chrysanthemum flowers seem to connect the light cold of winter and the warm breath of summer. She is rightfully considered the queen of autumn. This unpretentious autumn flower is truly of royal origin.

After all, once in the East luxurious feasts were held in his honor; the image of a chrysanthemum served as a symbol of nobility, happiness and was considered sacred. Many poems, myths and legends are dedicated to him. Today at oriental beauty fans are no less than those of the recognized queens - roses and orchids.

History of a flower

It is not known exactly how ancient the history of this flower is, but archaeologists have found images of chrysanthemums on fragments of marble and pottery, in the ornaments of ancient buildings, in patterns of oriental porcelain and even on ancient coins.

  • Some claim that the birthplace of the flower is Japan, others say China, and others say East Asia.
  • In Japan, the homeland of the chrysanthemum, its image is included in the national emblem; it is a symbol of the sun.
  • The Order of the Chrysanthemum is the highest award of this country.

The name of the flower, which comes from Greek words“chrysos” - golden and “antemos” - flower (golden flower) are not accidental; the ancestors of the chrysanthemum were exclusively yellow.

In Japanese it is called "kiku" - the sun. On the day of "kiku" in the imperial palace, the courtiers admired flowers, drank special chrysanthemum wine, listened to music and wrote poetry.

The chrysanthemum was considered a symbol of high status. Only the emperor and members of his family had the right to wear clothes made of fabric with a chrysanthemum pattern. Violation of the law was punishable by death. In the 18th century, the plant was brought to France and it conquered all of Europe.

Chrysanthemum in the East

In Japan, colorful chrysanthemum festivals are held annually, where human-sized dolls are dressed in historical clothes made from chrysanthemum flowers. On this day, the Japanese drink sake with the petals of this wonderful flower - a symbol of happiness and longevity. Participants of the holiday pass cups of drink to each other, wishing them many years of happy life.

This flower is no less revered in China, which is also considered the birthplace of the chrysanthemum. Here he personifies loyalty. The legend says that in the hoary old days, when a cruel emperor ruled China, there was a rumor that a chrysanthemum grew on a certain island, from the juice of which an elixir of life could be prepared.

But only a person with a pure heart should pick a flower, otherwise the plant will lose its miraculous power. 300 boys and girls were sent to the island. It’s just unknown whether they found that plant or not. No one returned, the Mikado died, and the youth founded a new state on that island - Japan.

Legends

The 9th day of the 9th month is dedicated to the chrysanthemum in China and Japan, and the flower picked on this day is endowed with magical powers. In Vietnam, chrysanthemums represent spiritual purity and clarity of mind. In Italy, the chrysanthemum is a symbol of love; a symbol of deep silent sadness; symbol of death.

  • In England, chrysanthemums are not so much flowers for bouquets, but funeral flowers. In Europe, white chrysanthemums are considered mourning flowers and a symbol of deep sadness. Wreaths of them are laid on graves in France.
  • Perhaps that is why there is a sad legend about their origin. “The poor woman’s son died. She decorated the grave that was dear to her with wildflowers collected along the way until the cold weather set in. Then she remembered the bouquet of artificial flowers that her mother bequeathed as a guarantee of happiness.
  • She placed this bouquet on the grave, watered it with tears, prayed, and when she raised her head, she saw a miracle: the entire grave was covered with living chrysanthemums. Their bitter smell seemed to indicate that they were dedicated to sadness.”

Chrysanthemum in Europe

The chrysanthemum appeared in Europe in 1676. It was brought from Japan to England and made by the Dutchman Reede. However, the French believe that chrysanthemums first appeared in Marseille in 1789 and were brought by the French traveler Pierre Blankshire.

  • However, the plants they brought were similar to daisies and did not make much of an impression.
  • Only after 1829, when the French gardener Berne, as a result of experiments with sowing chrysanthemum seeds, received beautiful varieties, the public became interested in them.
  • Over time, this flower could be seen in almost every English garden- chrysanthemums tolerated English fogs perfectly and bloomed even before the onset of light frosts.
  • During the celebration of Schiller's birthday in 1859, the bust of the writer was surrounded by thousands of chrysanthemums, the most diverse in color and shape that then existed.

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Superstitions and chrysanthemum.

Chrysanthemum balances the energy of logic and intuition, reason, will and feelings. Fills you with peace and self-confidence.

Protects against unnecessary hesitation and doubt. Develops confidence and the missing qualities of the sex: for men - fortitude, for women - tenderness and charm. Brings order to thoughts and emotions. Helps you feel like a real man or a real woman and change your sexual orientation. Develops tolerance and friendliness. For public places. For active, active, creative individuals. Helps strong personalities get along with each other.

Protects against unwanted changes in well-being. Brings balance to nervous system, kidneys, cardiovascular system.

The ancient Chinese claimed that chrysanthemum has the miraculous property of prolonging human life. According to ancient legend, a certain Taoist monk lived about 700 years, and only because he drank dew from chrysanthemum flowers in the morning. Maybe if we follow his example, we too will be able to maintain our youth?

The petals of chrysanthemum flowers are very different: white, pink, golden yellow. They have one thing in common - they are all rich in minerals, so necessary for the normal functioning of the human body. Please note that the flowers are odorless healing properties do not possess.

Must be added to traditional green tea fragrant petals of chrysanthemum flowers. It is believed to be extremely useful for any infectious disease. Ancient Chinese doctors recommended this tea in case of high temperature. They assured that it improves vision, removes toxins from the body, and is good for the liver.

Overheating, colds, dizziness, unstable blood pressure - all these diseases, according to them, can be easily cured with the help of chrysanthemum flower petals. You can believe this, but you can treat it with a fair amount of skepticism. However, even in our time, traditional healers renal failure It is recommended to eat ice cream with several fresh chrysanthemum petals in it.

Mostly low-growing varieties of chrysanthemums are grown in pots:

  1. Chrysanthemum chinensis– hybrid perennial. The height of low-growing varieties is up to 70 cm. Oval leaves with a bright aroma. The flowers are large-toothed, simple and double, of various colors.
  2. Chrysanthemum indica– ideal for growing indoors. Height - up to 50 cm. Particularly popular varieties: Snow Elf, Alt Gold, Aurora, Helen.
  3. Korean chrysanthemum is good for growing in a pot. The flowers are spherical and come in a variety of bright colors. The most common varieties: Orange Jam, Navare, Stella.

Features of caring for chrysanthemums in a pot

Despite the fact that chrysanthemum is an unpretentious plant, growing it at home has some peculiarities. By adhering to them, you can grow a strong plant that blooms for a long time.

1. Temperature

Chrysanthemum prefers fresh air and relative coolness. A comfortable temperature for them is considered to be from +10° to +15°, maximum – +18°. This optimal temperature, in which the flower gains many buds and blooms for a long time.

The plant will tolerate hot summers well if placed in a shaded and ventilated place. In winter, the suitable temperature for chrysanthemums is +2° to +5°.

2. Lighting

Chrysanthemum is a short-day plant and blooms when the day decreases to 8-10 hours. Chrysanthemum is a light-loving flower, but does not tolerate direct sunlight.

The most appropriate place for chrysanthemums - windows on the east or west side of the room. On windows facing north, the chrysanthemum may not bloom. On the south side the plant must be shaded.

3. Soil

The soil for chrysanthemums should be loose and nutritious, but not acidic. To prepare the soil mixture you will need: garden and turf soil, sand and humus in a ratio of 4:4:1:1.

For intense coloring of flowers, you can add chicken manure to the soil mixture.

5. Watering

Chrysanthemum needs good watering. The flower must be watered regularly every 3-5 days. At the slightest drying out of the soil, flowers and buds wither, and if there is excess moisture, the plant may die. Therefore, chrysanthemums should be watered as soon as the top layer of soil becomes dry.

It is advisable to water with filtered or rain water. Tap water It is advisable to leave it for 1-2 days. Water that is too hard can be boiled and the plants can be watered with cooled water.

6. Humidity

Chrysanthemum needs high humidity; after all, initially it garden plant. Chrysanthemum care includes regular spraying with water. It is advisable to spray the plant in the morning.

It is better to use purified water for spraying, since tap water can leave residue on the leaves.

You can humidify the air by placing a container of water next to the flowers or using air humidifiers. In autumn and winter, spraying is stopped.

7. Feeding

Chrysanthemums must be fertilized regularly in order for them to develop properly and bloom luxuriantly.

  1. Once every 2 weeks the plant needs to be fed:
  2. During the growth period (spring-summer), when the plant gains mass, feed it with fertilizer with a large amount of nitrogen.

When the chrysanthemum is preparing to bloom and form buds, it needs potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. The first feeding should be done 2-3 weeks after transplantation.

If there is enough humus in the soil, then the first fertilizing should be done in a month and a half.

8. Planting chrysanthemums in a pot

  1. Depending on the chrysanthemum variety and the number of cuttings, choose a container for the plant: For 1 plant
  2. – container with a diameter of 9 cm. For 3 plants
  3. – 11 cm. For 5 plants


  • – 13 cm.
  • Place a layer of expanded clay on the bottom of the container for drainage.
  • A seedling is placed in the mixture and positioned so that the roots are on the surface. Carefully add compost. After planting, do not compact the soil to avoid damaging the roots.
  • Moisten the soil with a spray bottle and ensure that the soil is always moist.
  • Place the container in a bright place, temperature up to +10°.

In order for the chrysanthemum to actively develop, you can use biostimulants for growth.

10. Transplant

Chrysanthemums should be replanted in the same way as most indoor plants. Young plants, up to 5 years old - replant every year, adults - once every 2 years.

After a period of rest, when the first shoots appear, the chrysanthemum should be replanted:

  1. Take the container for transplanting 2 - 3 cm wider than the previous one.
  2. Pour drainage - a layer of expanded clay - onto the bottom of the container, and soil mixture on top (as described above).
  3. Carefully remove the chrysanthemum from the old pot and move it to a new container.
  4. Fill the gaps with soil and compact lightly.
  5. To prevent water from leaking out of the pot when watering, do not fill the soil to the very edge of the container.
  6. Water the plant thoroughly.

How to trim a chrysanthemum

1. Formation of a bush

Pruning involves removing the upper part of the stem, due to which the growth of the plant slows down, the root system develops, and side shoots appear:

  1. Start pruning 10-15 days after planting.
  2. From a stem 12-15 cm long, cut off the upper part of the plant with 3-4 leaves with a sharp knife or pruning shears.
  3. After pruning, water the plant with nitrogen fertilizer.
  4. 2-3 weeks after pruning, shoots form in the leaf axils.

Do not prune during transplantation.

2. Preparing for the rest period


After flowering, chrysanthemums must be pruned. Step back 5-10 cm from the soil surface and use pruning shears to cut off the stems of the plant.

If you notice that the plant is damaged by aphids, cut off the diseased stems. Healthy plants cannot be pruned after sick ones with the same tool.

After pruning, the plants are removed to a cool (no more than +5°) dark room until spring. Pruning is necessary. The plant will rest and gain strength for better growth and flowering. During rest, the plant should be watered occasionally.

You can postpone the rest period if the bush is healthy and strong enough:

  1. Trim the plant and transplant it into a larger container. Completely replace the old substrate with a new one.
  2. Place the chrysanthemum in a bright, warm place, temperature from +18° to +20°.
  3. Water the flower 2-3 times a week.
  4. Feed with nitrogenous fertilizer once every 2 weeks.
  5. After the first buds appear, feed the plant with potassium-phosphorus fertilizer.

With proper care, the chrysanthemum will bloom in 2-2.5 months. But after flowering it must be sent to rest.

Propagating chrysanthemums in a pot

Chrysanthemum propagates in 3 ways:

  1. By cuttings.
  2. Dividing the bush.
  3. Seeds.

1. Cuttings

After a rest period, a month before cutting, move the container with the chrysanthemum to a warm, illuminated place (from +10° to +12°).

When 4-6 leaves form on the shoots, you can begin cuttings:

  1. It is better to take a high container, with the expectation that the cuttings will need to be covered for the first time.
  2. Prepare the substrate: humus, garden soil and sand, in this ratio - 1:2:0.5, taking into account that the top layer of sand should be 2-3 cm. Or take a mixture of perlite and sand, 1:1.
  3. Place drainage at the bottom of the container - expanded clay, pebbles, etc. Pour soil, and on top - a layer of sand of at least 2 cm. Water.
  4. Cut off the tops of the stems 10 cm high, making the lower cut under the internode. Remove the lower leaves.
  5. Dip the cutting in a growth stimulator. And deepen the cuttings 1.5-2 cm into moistened sand at an angle of 45° with a gap of 5 cm between them.
  6. Cover the container with glass or film and place the container with the cuttings in a bright, warm place (t from +17° to +20°).
  7. Make sure that the soil in the container is always moist by spraying it daily.
  8. Cuttings take root in 2 to 4 weeks. As soon as the cuttings take root, as evidenced by the growth that appears on them, the film must be removed.

After 2-3 weeks, chrysanthemums can be planted in pots.

2. Dividing the bush


A simpler and more reliable way to propagate chrysanthemums is to divide the bush during the period of intensive shoot growth.

From one bush of an overwintered plant you can get up to 6 divisions:

  1. Water the bush before dividing.
  2. Pour drainage and a mixture consisting of garden and turf soil, sand and humus into a new pot. Pour the mixture into 2/3 of the container.
  3. Remove the chrysanthemum from the old container, carefully separate the young shoots so that each separated part retains the root.
  4. Place the young shoot in a pot and carefully, trying not to damage the roots, cover it with soil. Do not compact the soil.
  5. After transplanting, carefully water the shoots, preferably with a spray bottle, so as not to accidentally wash away the soil.
  6. Place the container with the shoots in a bright, warm (but not more than +20°) place. Shade from the sun.

After 2-3 weeks, the divisions will take root well.

3. Propagation by seeds

Determine the sowing time by the time of flowering:

  1. Treat the sowing container with a solution of potassium permanganate.
  2. Pour drainage and a mixture of garden soil, sand and humus, 2:0.5:1, into the container.
  3. Moisten the substrate and place the seeds on top. The seeds are not sprinkled with soil, as they need light to germinate. Or sprinkle with a thin layer of light soil.
  4. Cover the container with glass or plastic wrap and put it in a bright room (t from +10° to +15°).
  5. Moisten the soil only with a spray bottle.
  6. After 7-12 days, shoots will appear. Remove the cover.
  7. After the formation of 4-6 true leaves, pick the plant with a gap of 5-10 cm between them.

A month and a half before flowering, plant chrysanthemums in a permanent place.

Disease and pest control

Aphids damage plant shoots and leaves on the underside, which turn yellow and fall off. Spray with Fitoverm, Inta-Vir, Actellik. In case of severe damage, repeat spraying.

  1. Red spider mite damages leaves, which turn pale yellow and fall off. The cause of the disease may be dry air. Spray with insecticides.
  2. Septoria– yellow and then brown spots appear on the leaves. Remove diseased leaves and treat with fungicide. Do not spray the plant for several weeks, reduce watering. The cause of the disease is an excess of nitrogenous fertilizer.
  3. Powdery mildew covers the stems and leaves with a white coating. The cause of the disease is high humidity. Treat the plant with a fungicide.
  4. Gray rot– brown spots appear on the plant, which are then covered with a gray coating. The cause of the disease is high humidity. Treat the plant with Fundazol. After a few days, repeat the treatment.

It must be remembered that chemicals unsafe. If possible, use biological products for indoor treatment.

When using pesticides, take all precautions and ventilate the rooms thoroughly.

Frequently asked questions and answers

Question. Why doesn't chrysanthemum bloom?

Answer. Chrysanthemums must bloom in the fall. If this does not happen, it means that her care has been disrupted. Reasons for the lack of flowering: the timing of plant pruning is violated, the chrysanthemum does not have enough light, poor soil or lack of fertilizers.

Question. Do I need to pinch chrysanthemums?

Answer. Yes, it needs to be formed. In order not to get a long single trunk, when the shoots are 10-15 cm, you need to pinch them. During the growing season - 2-3 times. The last pinching should be done 2 weeks before the start of flowering, somewhere in mid-August. To form a beautiful spherical bush, you need to trim off all overgrown shoots.

Question. Why does chrysanthemum dry out?

Answer. Chrysanthemum leaves dry out for several reasons. Increased plant temperature, pests, poor soil and frequent watering. If the plant is cared for proper care, all fertilizing has been carried out, and no pests are found upon careful inspection, then the chrysanthemum must be carefully dug up. Inspect the roots; if they begin to rot, then all rotten roots must be removed. Transplant the flower into another pot with fresh but moist soil. Do not water the plant for several days.

Question. Where to store chrysanthemums in winter?

Answer. In a cool room - on the veranda, insulated balcony. If this is not possible, then you can store it on a windowsill, trimming the plant to a minimum, removing all dry branches and leaves. Water the same as during the growing season. You can place the flower in the basement for the winter. Trim the bush, remove all dried and rotten twigs and leaves. 2 days before wintering, water the soil. When placed in the basement, the soil should be slightly damp, but not soggy.

Indoor chrysanthemums, the care of which is not very difficult even for novice gardeners, can often be found in the most ordinary apartment. At the same time, unsatisfactory maintenance conditions can lead to the death of the plant at home.

It should be noted that indoor chrysanthemums should be purchased at flower shops, and not grown from cuttings yourself. The fact is that professional flower growers add special chemical substances, which slow down the growth of the flower. As a result, the plant acquires a beautiful, correct form and looks great in any interior. If you try to grow an indoor chrysanthemum from a cutting yourself, the plant will be too tall, which will affect its flowering and appearance.

Caring for chrysanthemums at home

Lighting, temperature. Ideally, domestic chrysanthemums should be kept on windows facing west or east. Southern windows are too hot for them; direct sunlight causes rapid flowering. On northern windows, the buds may not open at all. Alternatively, chrysanthemums at home can be placed on a ventilated, cool balcony with good lighting.

Optimal temperatures for growing chrysanthemums: in summer – 20-23°, in autumn – 15-18°, in winter – 3-8°. These temperatures are ideal. If they are followed, the chrysanthemum gains a large number of buds and blooms for a long time. However, nothing bad will happen if you deviate from the recommended parameters. A chrysanthemum in a pot will normally survive the hot summer if you place it in a ventilated place, shaded from the midday rays. It will also tolerate short-term frosts down to -3° quite well.

Watering and spraying chrysanthemums at home

Traditionally, chrysanthemum is a garden “decoration” and requires significant moisture. Systematic spraying from a spray bottle is required. Sometimes such an opportunity is not available every day and a container of water, a tray with expanded clay or an electric humidifier installed next to the crop helps. If in the spring the plant “lives” on the balcony, then there is no need for spraying.

Watering is required regular and moderate. Stagnation of moisture leads to rotting of the roots. You should not place a tray that will constantly contain water. The next watering occurs after the top layer of soil from the previous one has dried out. But at least 3 times a week. Drying out the soil is not allowed. Do not water your pet in the evening, after sunset. It is important to ensure that there are not many drops left on the foliage and stem. This leads to fungal diseases.

Transplanting chrysanthemums

Blooming chrysanthemums need to be replanted carefully. The slightest damage to the roots is disastrous for it. To begin with, I prepare a spacious pot and arrange drainage from pebbles at the bottom. The most ordinary soil, from the garden, will do if it is not too acidic.

Before digging, I water the bush well. You need to dig up a flower with big lump soil, you need to take into account that the roots go quite deep. I place the flower in a pot for drainage, then fill the voids with soil. Then the soil will settle a little, it will need to be added.

At first I place the flower pot in a cool, dark place. For about a week he has been standing on the veranda. Then I take it home, but I also choose a cooler place.

When the chrysanthemum fades, I cut the stems, leaving 15 centimeters, the same as when cutting chrysanthemums, which I wrote about here. I water it and put a paper bag on top of the pot. In this form I lower it into the cellar for winter storage. The flower needs peace at this time. So, at a temperature of +3 degrees it is perfectly stored. Sometimes I check it and water it a little every 2 weeks to prevent the roots from drying out.

Feeding chrysanthemums

Phosphorus is constantly needed by all types of chrysanthemums, without exception. With insufficient phosphorus nutrition, not only a delay in flowering is possible, but also a decrease in leaf size. In this case, the multiflora produces few side shoots, which makes the plants weak and unattractive, and spherical chrysanthemums lose their characteristic shape. But phosphorus fertilizing is especially important for large-flowered chrysanthemums, those grown for cutting. A high dose of this substance, with a moderate nitrogen content, has a very beneficial effect on the durability of cut flowers in a bouquet and significantly increases their shelf life. There is no need to worry about an overdose of phosphorus - chrysanthemums themselves are usually able to regulate its consumption.

With a lack of potassium, chrysanthemum leaves curl and dry and discolored edges appear. As a rule, during potassium starvation, there is difficulty in water consumption, delayed flowering, and a general painful appearance. That is, all the signs of premature aging of the bush are evident. An overdose of this substance leads to slow and incomplete absorption of nitrogen and, as a consequence, to the paleness of leaves and stems.

Mistakes made when potassium and phosphorus fertilizing is not carried out in a timely manner can cause late flowering of chrysanthemums. To avoid this, experts recommend feeding them with potassium monophosphate at a dilution of 1:10 or another multicomponent fertilizer, where one part of nitrogen will be three parts of phosphorus and two parts of potassium.

During active growth of roots, shoots and leaves, tall and large-flowered chrysanthemums should be fed every ten days, using mainly organic fertilizers in liquid form. And if the soil is too poor - every three to four days. For this purpose, the easiest way is to take a solution of mullein at a dilution of 1:10, one liter of which is enough for two plants. If he's not there, best replacement An infusion of crushed weeds and cut grass, aged for several days in a non-oxidizing container, will serve. It is permissible to combine organics and complex mineral mixtures, such as Kemira Lux or Kemira Universal. Feeding continues until buds form.

Caring for chrysanthemums after flowering

Caring for a chrysanthemum in a pot is a painstaking and responsible task; every nuance will be important here. Despite the fact that this plant is usually perceived exclusively as a garden plant, growing indoor varieties is also extremely popular.

There is a special category of compact varieties of this wonderful flower. A variety of colors and flower types will allow you to choose perfect option. By observing the basic care requirements and avoiding waterlogging of the soil, you can successfully grow a beautiful flowering bush. You should not cover the pot, so as not to provoke the appearance of fungus. Additional watering for chrysanthemums in the dormant period will also be superfluous. Usually the rest lasts until the onset of spring, after which the plant must be installed in its original place and cared for according to the already familiar pattern.

Some gardeners practice re-growing the plant after the active phase. To do this, the stems are cut, but the care and location remain the same. After a short break, the chrysanthemum will sprout new shoots and will soon bloom again.

Propagation of chrysanthemum by cuttings

When to start cuttings. Spring cuttings of chrysanthemums are usually carried out in March. In mid-February, move the mother bush to a warm room and water it well. After 7 - 10 days, young shoots will begin to appear. How to prepare cuttings. Wait until the height of the shoots is 8 - 10 cm. Cut them so that two pairs of leaves remain on the remaining stumps. Then new shoots will grow on them faster, which can also be taken from cuttings. Small shoots should not be cut off; they are not yet ripe and may rot. Remove the bottom pair of leaves from the prepared cuttings. There is no need to trim the top leaves.

Landing. Before planting, the prepared soil must be shed with water. In a common cuttings, the cuttings are planted at a distance of 5 cm between plants and to a depth of 1.5 - 2 cm. You can plant one at a time in cups, or three cuttings in pots at once. In the latter case, in a few months you will get a very nice, blooming chrysanthemum bush. If the cuttings are kept indoors, they should be covered with film. When grown in a greenhouse, film cover is not required.

When propagating chrysanthemums by cuttings, the use of root-forming preparations is not necessary.

Propagation of chrysanthemum by dividing the bush

A mother bush suitable for cuttings is selected in the fall, despite the fact that the cuttings are taken in the spring. In this case, the sequence of work to prepare the bush for cuttings is as follows:

During the flowering period, healthy plants are selected without any signs of diseases or pests.

When the plants fade, the above-ground part is cut off.

With the onset of frost, chrysanthemums are dug up and placed in boxes, after which they are put away for the winter in a cool room where the temperature is 3-8°C.

The plant must be watered periodically, preventing the soil from drying out.

A month before the cutting process, the container with the plant is transferred to a well-lit and warmer room with an air temperature of 10-12°C.

As the temperature rises, the amount of watering also increases.

After 1-2 weeks, renewal buds begin to appear, from which root shoots are formed, signaling the need to start cuttings.

Growing chrysanthemum from seeds

Seeds of annual chrysanthemums can be sown directly in open ground. This is usually done in mid-May; in this case, flowering will occur only in the fall. In order to see flowers earlier, it is better to plant seedlings that quickly adapt to open ground. Seeds of perennial flowers are sown at the end of January. If the winter is too harsh, then this process is postponed to February. Such flowers should be grown in light soil, which is prepared according to the following scheme:

  • One part of humus
  • One part sand
  • Two pieces of leafy soil

Growing chrysanthemums at home must be done in a container, on the bottom of which gravel, expanded clay or any other material that acts as drainage is placed. Seeds of annual flowers are planted to a depth of no more than 1 cm. If the chrysanthemum is Korean, then in this case the seeds must be laid on the surface. The appearance of sprouts should be expected within two weeks, and when favorable conditions this period is usually reduced.

Seedlings should be grown at a temperature environment+18 degrees. The soil must be constantly moist, so it must be systematically sprayed with a spray bottle so that it does not dry out. It is best to use warm and settled water. After several true leaves appear, the plants begin to dive into separate containers.

Chrysanthemum diseases

White rust of chrysanthemums.

The first signs of the disease are round yellow spots on the leaves 5 mm in size. First, spots appear on young leaves, gradually they become larger and change color to light brown. At the same time, round “pockmarks” appear on the underside - sporangia containing telytospores. It is noteworthy that leaves affected by the disease do not fall off.

Gray rot of chrysanthemums.

Gray rot of chrysanthemums - develops in cold and damp weather, during prolonged rains, or when transporting cut flowers. Brown watery spots appear on the petals. Then the spots grow, and the inflorescence turns into a rotting mass. Gray rot affects both adult plants and cuttings during rooting.

Septoria.

Septoria, or leaf spot. This disease of chrysanthemums is manifested by the appearance of round brown spots on the lower leaves. Leaves affected by septoria turn yellow, causing the plant to weaken, and the inflorescences do not have the opportunity to fully develop.

Powdery mildew.

Powdery mildew - this disease affects the flower completely. It forms white coating caused by controversy. The tissues under the coating dry out, which leads to the death of the plant. Powdery mildew is a consequence of a lack of calcium in the soil, excess nitrogen fertilizers, extreme heat and heavy dew. The pathogens continue to live on plant remains, so after cutting, the roots must be removed and burned.

Chrysanthemum pests

Chrysanthemum nematode.

This pest is a thread-like mealyworm. The size of the nematode is so small that it is very difficult to see it with the naked eye. The damage to a plant by nematodes can be judged by the following characteristic signs: white mosaic spots appear between the leaf veins, which subsequently darken, acquiring a brownish color. Affected leaves curl, dry out and fall off. Such sad symptoms appear first on the lower leaves of the bush, then move to the upper ones.

Meadow bug.

The meadow bug sucks cell sap from the plant, which affects the appearance of leaves, buds and inflorescences. In particular, the damage to a plant by this pest can be judged by whitish spots on the leaves. After some time, the leaves turn brown and dry out, the buds do not open, and the inflorescences form with deformed petals. The bug overwinters on plant debris.

When attacked by thrips, chrysanthemum leaves become covered with white and yellowish spots and become distorted. Inflorescences are often damaged and lose their decorative value.