The best way to sheathe the outside of a wooden house: materials, photos, reviews. Cladding the outside of a house with clapboard is just clapboard covering a house

In the photo - the beginning of work on covering the house with wooden panels

Cladding the outside of the house with clapboard is an excellent choice for those who decide to improve the exterior of the house, since such finishing will allow you to change its external design. In addition, the use of eurolining as a sheathing material will improve the insulation properties, in particular sound and heat.

This article will tell you not only how to cover the outside of a house with clapboards, but will also help you choose the right material.

Types of panels by raw material

In total, there are two main types of lining, depending on the raw materials - wooden and PVC. We can talk about which option should be preferred only by studying their features.

Features of plastic external lining:

• long service life (no rotting process);
• no maintenance required;
• external plastic lining is not exposed to environmental influences.

Features of wooden lining:

• elegant design;
• high sound insulation rates;
• thermal conductivity is low.

Wood paneling, also known as wood paneling exterior finishing, can be divided into a simple version and . The division takes into account the use of estimated data for comparison with generally accepted standards.

The main standard for the production of this material is GOST 8242-88, abroad DIN 68126. At the same time, imported indicators are somewhat different from Russian ones due to the external indicators of wood, which are more deliberate geometric properties, which cannot but lead to the fact that the price of the material is significantly higher.

Basics of choosing eurolining

Before choosing a material for cladding, you should study several rules:

1. To avoid further deformation of the material, which occurs as a result of shrinkage and leads to the formation of cracks, you should choose a type of lining whose humidity will be in the range from 10 to 15%;

Advice: Ask the seller to confirm the declared humidity - if he refuses, there is reason to think about the advisability of the purchase.

1. Be sure to inspect the material for wormholes and foreign stains;
2. The number of knots in the selected material should be minimal.

Note! The exterior of the house should be clad with clapboards using material made from coniferous species, since deciduous trees (not counting aspen) are not suitable for outer skin.

Installation stages

1. Vapor barrier fasteners;
2. Installation of the frame directly;
3. Installation of thermal insulation;
4. Carrying out waterproofing;
5. Construction of the second frame;
6. Exterior clapboard finishing .

Vapor barrier fasteners

Initially, you should select a material that will act as a vapor barrier; usually roofing felt, aluminum foil or even ordinary plastic film are used for these purposes.

When starting simple painting, you should observe some nuances:

1. The entire surface is pre-treated grinder. It requires the presence of a fixed sandpaper(grain 40-25-80 or 120);
2. If using oil paint, it is necessary to apply drying oil in two layers, and apply the paint only after it has completely dried.

Results

Despite the fact that anyone can take advantage of the opportunity to cover the outside of a house with clapboards, this process requires certain physical and time expenditures. An excellent analogue wood finishing it will be plastic external lining.

On our website you can find a large number of videos that provide some valuable tips and step-by-step instructions.

There are many types of finishing work and ways to improve appearance and the condition of your home. One solution is to cover the house with clapboard!

You will find the stages of performing this work, which includes the selection of material and step-by-step execution of actions, by reading this article.

Type of lining

What is a lining? It is a long plank of wood, ready for use after a lot of woodworking. The thickness of such a board is usually no more than 20-22 cm. This standard lining, but this type of material exists, but it consists not of wood, but of plastic (plastic lining).

Each of the proposed materials is undoubtedly practical and each is endowed with its own qualities and advantages.

Let's talk about plastic exterior lining!

1. Artificial material, which this lining consists of, does not rot, which means this material is very durable!
2. The smooth surface and the peculiarity of the composition of this product are not exposed to the aquatic environment, which means it has water-repellent properties!
3. And since we have already talked above about water-repellent properties, it’s time to say that this material is the best in caring for it, which means it is very easy to wash (clean).
4. The service life will also please you very much: 25-30 years - this is very decent!

Let's talk about the ordinary, well-known classic wooden lining!

1. Good appearance, you can easily sheathe your house or interior spaces!
2. If your home is located in close proximity to the highway, railway or a noisy enterprise (institution), then, of course, the best material for sound insulation is this lining!
3. The low thermal conductivity properties of the material in question will help keep your home warm in winter and cool in summer.

If you decide to choose the second type of lining, then you should know that it comes in several types! These types differ only in the place of production (Russia, Europe). Because of this, the price of this product also varies! The one made in Russia is much cheaper, has simple design, and the European one is complex in its geometric design and is made of more expensive materials, and therefore more expensive.

When choosing lining you must be extremely careful

1. Pay attention to humidity, if it is less than 8-15%, this will lead to drying out of the material and significantly reduce its service life.
2. It’s also worth looking at the number of different knots and notches; choose those boards that have much less of this flaw!
3. If you see small black or blue dots, then you should discard such material, because it has become fungal!

When choosing, consider what kind of wood it is made of this material; undoubtedly, coniferous material will be the best!

Let's proceed to the stages of cladding work

1. Vapor barrier
2. Attaching the frame for vapor barrier
3. Installing a vapor barrier in this frame
4. Securing the vapor barrier
5. Installation of the second frame
6. Exterior clapboard finishing

First stage

Vapor barriers can be several materials (roofing felt, polyethylene film, aluminium foil).

the main task this stage work to create ventilation of the facade of the house using film. To do it correctly, you need to attach narrow (2.5 cm) slats to the house at a short distance from each other (usually attached at a distance of about a meter). The vapor barrier layer itself is attached using a stapler. And to ensure ventilation itself, it is necessary to make small cuts (they are made below between the rivers)

Second phase

We use small boards to make a frame for thermal insulation. The boards are attached to the wall vertically on their sides, the distance between which we attach the boards should be slightly less than the insulation that you purchased.

Third stage

When installing thermal insulation, you need to take into account that the layers of wool should not have any gaps between each other; lay the sheets in two layers, and cover the joints of the first layer with the second. The frame was made a little smaller because the thermal insulation itself will be located in the frame without any special fasteners (on its own).

Third stage

We install waterproofing on top of the thermal insulation, in the form of a special film. It retains moisture! This film, like thermal insulation, must be laid in two layers, the joints must also be secured with tape, and the first layer must be attached with a stapler. Please note that the film must be laid with the rough side facing the lining.

Fourth stage

The next frame is attached to the boards of the lower frame, on top of all the insulating coatings. Leave a small space between the new slats and the waterproofing layer to remove condensation.

Nail a metal mesh to the bottom of the remaining space to protect against various pests.

Fifth stage

Now let's cover it with clapboard! It's worth starting from the bottom. The first board should be positioned with the tenon facing down. Be sure to check that it is horizontal with a level.

Secure with nails.

The next board should be firmly installed into the groove of the previous one using a blow. Let's secure it. We continue to work the same way!

When all the lining is installed, you must nail the boards vertically at the corners of the house, overlapping one another. We also make trim for doors and windows and only after finishing all the work, start painting! You can use a special liquid (impregnation), it will protect the facing layer from external influences. But before painting, sand your home.

As you can see, this type of work is not at all difficult and you don’t have to put in a lot of effort!

The facade of a residential building must be decorated with decorative building materials in order to be not only practical, but also beautiful. The coating has special requirements in accordance with building codes and regulations. Lining for exterior finishing is a modern and inexpensive material, thanks to which you can implement a variety of design projects with your own hands. It is increasingly preferred by owners of private country house where they live seasonally or permanently.

The appearance of a building decorated on the outside with clapboard does not need to be monitored regularly. The lining is not exposed to adverse weather conditions and is resistant to severe frosts.

If you plan to sheathe your home with your own hands, then before purchasing you need to familiarize yourself with technical characteristics specified by the manufacturer, the type of raw material from which the wooden lining is made, and also evaluate the appearance of the product. High-quality lining can be inexpensive without visible external damage to the surface of the boards.

For finishing the outside of a house, noble wood species such as ash, larch, and oak are better suited. But the cost will be higher due to the superior quality and durability of the products.

Natural material for decorating the outside of a residential building guarantees a good microclimate inside. At first glance, the finishing panels attached to the outside are not connected with the living space itself, but this is a wrong opinion. When there is an excess of moisture, a tree absorbs it, and when there is a lack, it releases it. Approaching such a structure, you can feel the light aroma of oak or ash, which creates an aura of warmth and comfort.

It’s nice to be in a house decorated with clapboard

Among the main advantages of lining for finishing wooden structure can be distinguished:

• safety;
• high environmental performance;
• heat and sound insulation;
• good aesthetic data;
• is not difficult to process;
• does not require regular care;
• You can hide communications and wires under the panels.

You can sheathe a building with your own hands, you need to follow the technology (lay each plank correctly and consistently). It doesn’t take much time or effort; within a week you can evaluate your efforts and begin using the house as before. A large number of tools are also not required - special nails and a hammer, as well as consumables (putty, glue, sandpaper).

Types of wood material

There are two broad categories wood panels for external cladding: lining and eurolining. The first option is produced by domestic manufacturers and is manufactured in accordance with GOST 8242-88 standards. Regular lining has an affordable price, but the range cannot be called wide. Standard board dimensions are 150x6000 mm and should not exceed these parameters. The thickness varies and is in the range of 12-25 mm.

Regular or eurolining will do

The foreign analogue is considered a higher quality construction product. The buyer can choose boards of various configurations to produce exterior finishing wooden house. Construction stores will offer the following types:

• standard,
• landhouse,
• block house,
• American.

The most popular and beautiful option for eurolining is the block house. This type has an affordable price and is considered universal; it is used for interior and exterior work, done with your own hands or by a team of professionals.

How to choose lining for outdoor work

If you need to select a budget option For cladding, lining made of fir, spruce or pine is suitable. It is of high quality, light weight and long term use. Parameters for assessing lining:

• the highest grade has no defects on the surface (knots or roughness, resin pockets, cracks);
• It is worth paying attention to traces of insect activity;
• the color should be light;
• absence of putrefactive areas.

All defects are carefully examined by the buyer on the spot; their number per unit area can be used to confirm the type of board. The more unsightly areas there are, the cheaper the exterior trim will cost. If the wood has no defects at all, it is a top-class building material, in demand among consumers.

High-quality lining for exterior cladding of a house

You need to purchase products after making preliminary calculations. It is better if the amount of raw materials is 10% more. Usually in hardware store The buyer is given the opportunity to independently select from a large package the boards containing the least number of flaws. If on the surface wooden product there are small black stains or large areas of a similar shade - it most likely was in a damp room for a long time or was exposed to heat. Failure to comply with storage and drying technology negatively affects the performance properties of the product.

Wood processing before cladding

It is not worth starting covering the walls of a structure immediately after purchasing a sufficient amount of material. Be sure to soak the inside of the boards with a special antiseptic solution. This is a guarantee that after covering the house, wood-boring beetles will not appear under the decorative strips, and mold and fungal deposits will not appear, because these factors significantly affect the durability of the wood.

The simplicity of installation is also captivating in this process. The fastening method is tongue-and-groove. It is advisable to construct a sheathing from wooden beams- this will allow you to get good result and perfectly smooth walls. If necessary, you need to lay insulation under the sheathing.

Insulation and sheathing under the lining

Existing small holes from knots can be sealed with your own hands after the house is sheathed. For this purpose, polymer-type putty should be applied. After it hardens, you need to carefully clean these areas with medium-grit sandpaper. If the material is too rough, distinct scratches will appear on the surface of the wood.

Upon completion of the cleaning stage, it is necessary to apply impregnation of the desired shade to the outside of the lining. Varnish will help add a glossy shine (you can give preference to the colorless version; warm brown-golden colors are also in fashion). In addition to aesthetic benefits, coating with paint or varnish helps the material to be more resistant to adverse weather conditions and high humidity.

A properly clad exterior of a residential building looks very attractive and has no flaws.

Similar articles:

1. No. 1. What are the main advantages of wooden lining?
2. No. 2. What is the difference between regular lining and eurolining?
3. No. 3. What size lining is needed?
4. No. 4. Which wood is better?
5. No. 5. Which lining profile is better?
7. No. 6. What type of lining is better to choose?
8. No. 7. Is it possible to distinguish low-quality lining?
9. No. 8. Which manufacturers can you trust?

• LUNAWOOD
• "Astar"
• "Karelia"
• "Vyatka Pine"
• PromMax

This decorative, practical and natural material like a wooden panel. It is a kind of board, the parameters and profile of which can vary significantly, as well as the color, which largely depends on the type of wood. Moreover, wooden lining is divided into several grades, but even if there are markings on the packaging, you need to be able to choose the appropriate material. So, how to choose the right wooden lining and what is important to pay attention to?

No. 1. What are the main advantages of wooden lining?

All the basic properties of the material depend on the nuances of its manufacture. Wooden lining is produced from solid wood at wood processing enterprises. Lining is a cut board 7-20 mm thick with planed surfaces. The width of such material is 90-150 mm, the length can vary widely. At one time, thin, long strips of wood with selected quarters were used to cover railroad cars, hence the name.

The raw material for lining can be any type of wood, and most importantly distinctive feature material is considered presence of groove and tongue, thanks to which the installation is carried out. All this allows us to talk about numerous advantages of lining:

• excellent thermal and sound insulation properties;
• low coefficient of thermal expansion;
• due to its light weight, ease of transportation and installation is achieved, and there is no need to strengthen the foundation;
• due to the tongue-and-groove installation method, it is possible to assemble the casing without gaps;
• the appearance of the wooden lining is chic, allowing you to bring comfort to the interior or highlight the building when facing the facade;
• strength and durability;
• environmental friendliness, because the tree undergoes a minimum of processing operations.

Among the minuses can only be called a good ability to maintain combustion, but subject to the rules fire safety There is no threat to the material or your health. Naturally, wooden lining is more expensive than its plastic counterpart, but it will also last much longer, being resistant to physical stress.

No. 2. What is the difference between regular lining and eurolining?

On the construction market you can find both ordinary wooden lining and material with the “euro” prefix. The latter is significantly superior to conventional lining in a number of performance indicators. So, The main differences are as follows:

• size. Soviet-style lining is much thicker, and its thickness can reach up to 25 mm; the thickness of Euro lining is 13, 16 or 19 mm. The maximum width of eurolining is 120 mm, conventional - up to 150 mm;
• lock. The protrusion of the lock in the eurolining is about 8-10 mm, which allows the elements to hold securely, even with strong changes in temperature and humidity. In ordinary lining, the lock is often very tiny, so the slats diverge during use;
• Availability ventilation holes on the back side of the eurolining, which prevent the formation of cracks during temperature changes. There are no such grooves on ordinary lining;
• humidity. The eurolining is forcibly dried until the humidity reaches 10-15%, which ensures the absence of any deformations during transportation, installation and operation of the finished coating. The humidity of ordinary lining reaches 20-25%, which negatively affects both the process of working with it and its behavior during operation;
• appearance. Since eurolining is manufactured in accordance with strict European standards and using European equipment, its front side is always smooth. If there are knots on it, they are carefully processed. Manufacturers, as a rule, have several types of profiles. The lock elements fit together precisely. Conventional lining rarely boasts such an ideal appearance and precision of execution. lock connection, often its surface is rough and fleecy;
• eurolining is sorted into classes. Depending on the presence of defects on the wood itself and defects acquired during processing, as a rule, four classes are distinguished.

It is clear that when Euro-class lining appeared on the market, many builders began to use it. However, ordinary lining can also be and is sometimes used for external cladding, and in cases where the quality of the finished surface and its appearance is not so important, and the task of saving comes to the fore.

No. 3. What size lining is needed?

The first thing you need to decide is lining length. You need to proceed from the surface you will be covering and strive to create a minimum of waste. It is clear that shorter slats are suitable for a balcony, but for cladding the facade or walls in a room, lining of sufficient length is needed. Selecting the necessary material will not be difficult, since the lining is sold in increments of 10 cm, starting from 30 cm and up to 6 m. When making calculations, it is also worth considering that often even the highest quality material needs trimming of the edges.

Width is selected depending on the design idea, but it is worth taking into account the fact that a narrower lining will be more stable. The wider the material, the more prone it is to deformation. IN Lately often used interesting way– a combination of linings of different widths, thereby achieving an original effect.

As for lining thickness, then the conditions for further operation of the material are first taken into account. If the walls are sheathed indoors, then the lightest and thinnest lining with a thickness of 12.5 mm is quite suitable. Material up to 16 mm thick can also be used in these conditions. If we are talking about cladding facades, when the lining also presses a thick layer of insulation, then it is better to choose a thicker material - it will be stronger, more reliable and durable. A lining with a thickness of 18.5-22.5 mm is suitable.

When choosing, you may notice in the store the so-called length-joined wooden paneling. This material consists of several parts, which are carefully selected according to pattern and color, but can have different lengths. Using a microspike connection, a special adhesive composition and high pressure individual elements turned into a solid board. In terms of its main characteristics, such a material does not differ from solid lining, and in some properties it even surpasses it, because it turns out to be as stable as possible, and temperature and humidity have little effect on it. Technological features production does not allow making such lining less than 15 mm thick. In addition, some are afraid to use such material in saunas and baths, as they are afraid of the influence chemical substances glue, which may begin to separate when exposed to high temperatures.

No. 4. Which wood is better?

In fact, any wood can be used to make lining, but the properties of the lining will differ greatly, as will its price. Cheaper lining is not always worse, since the material should be chosen based on its operating conditions. As for the color of wood, its choice is a purely subjective opinion.

All lining that is present on the modern market can be divided into two main types:

• lining made of softwood;
• lining from hardwood wood

Coniferous wood has a high resin content and essential oils, due to which it resists the formation of fungus and withstands high humidity. This material has found a wide range of applications and is excellent for external cladding, but is completely unsuitable for saunas and baths. Under the influence of high temperatures, resin begins to release, and this process can continue for a long time. Not only does the material become sticky, but it can also spontaneously ignite. However, spruce and pine wood is used in Northern European countries to construct saunas, but the material is de-resined.

Most often, the following coniferous species are used to make lining:

• pine. It has a nice design, high strength, is inexpensive, but from time to time it needs to be varnished so that the material does not begin to darken;
• spruce. Wood has excellent thermal insulation properties and a pleasant shade;
• larch. It is very resistant to external influences, does not warp even with significant temperature fluctuations, and is resistant to pests;
• cedar. Expensive wood with excellent performance properties, color from yellowish to coffee.

Hardwood less durable, but do not emit resins and heat up poorly, which allows them to be used in baths and saunas. They require regular treatment, otherwise under the influence external factors will change color and deteriorate. The most popular hardwoods:

• oak. The most durable and strong, resistant to rotting, dense, with a beautiful wood pattern, but such material also costs quite a lot;
• Linden. Wood has excellent soundproofing qualities and a subtle pleasant aroma; it is often used for finishing baths;
• ash. Due to its high hardness, such wood does not crack at all. Color – dark yellow;
• black alder has a pleasant light coffee color and is resistant to moisture.

Separately, it is worth noting that only low-density wood is suitable for a bathhouse, otherwise the material will become very hot, which can result in burns.

No. 5. Which lining profile is better?

Modern manufacturers produce lining with different cross-sectional profiles. In addition, the size and shape of the lock, the nature of the front and back surfaces and some other parameters may differ. All this affects not only external characteristics lining, but also on the scope of its application.

Today the most popular lining with the following profiles:

• traditional eurolining with angular edges. Once assembled, it forms visible seams due to the enlarged tenon;
• lining softline differs in slightly rounded corners, recommended for use in saunas and baths;
• calm. This lining forms a barely noticeable seam, since there are no shelves or recesses near the tenon. Corners can be either sharp or rounded. In the first case, it is possible to achieve the effect of a massive wall, so some manufacturers position such lining as an imitation of timber;
• loungehouse. The front side of such lining does not have a smooth surface - multiple patterns are created on it thanks to figured milling. The pattern can be of varying degrees of complexity, and such lining becomes a real interior decoration. There is also a cheaper analogue - lining with a carving effect. The design is applied to such material using hot stamping;
• lining blockhouse and siding type imitate logs and siding, respectively;
• double-sided lining– quite an interesting and not yet very common solution. The tongue and groove are located exactly in the middle, and both sides receive the same treatment, so during installation the specialist can choose which color and pattern is best. The only negative is the lack of ventilation holes, so this material is not suitable for baths.

No. 6. What type of lining is better to choose?

To determine the type of lining, it is customary to use the European DIN type standard, but some manufacturers use different GOSTs and their own developed specifications, which is why it is so easy to make a mistake when purchasing and it is so important to look not only at the markings, but also at the quality of the material itself.

The type of lining is determined after production, since materials of different grades are produced on the same equipment using the same technology. Later, the lining is sorted depending on the presence of knots, blue spots, cracks, imperfections and resin pockets. As a rule, there are four classes of lining:

• extra or premium. This is an ideal lining without knots and cracks, and imperfections, blueness or roughness are allowed only on the back side;
• class A. There may be knots no more than 1 cm in diameter (no more than one per linear meter), non-through small cracks, which are often puttied by the manufacturer, and other minor defects may only be on the back side;
• class B. The diameter of the knots can reach a third of the width of the lamella, their number is not limited. There may also be open pockets and small through cracks;
• class C. This, roughly speaking, is the rest of the lining, with a large number of defects, cracks, knots, with blue spots and imperfections on the front surface.

As for the scope of use, only class C lining is not allowed for finishing. Material of other classes has almost the same operational properties, and the choice depends only on personal preferences. Not everyone likes extra-class lining, as it looks faceless and boring.

No. 7. Is it possible to distinguish low-quality lining?

You should not always blindly trust the class indicated on the packaging - It’s better to inspect the material with your own eyes. First of all, you should pay attention to the packaging. It is undesirable to use stretch film, since such storage negatively affects the moisture content of the lining. Of course, it is better to inspect the product before purchasing, but if the material is packed in film, then you will not be able to examine it, and they are unlikely to be allowed to open the packaging. The only way out is to purchase one or two packages and check the quality. If everything is fine with the lining, then the products already purchased will be useful, and if not, then you will insure yourself against larger financial losses.

The geometry of the product should not be violated - the lining lamella should be even. Even a small arc indicates that the material was stored incorrectly, and if similar board If you manage to install it, it is unlikely to last long and will most likely soon come out of the lock. You also need to see the castle. There should be no knots or cracks on it, but it is better to take a clamp with you and check the reliability of the future connection. At specialized points there should be a tool that measures the moisture content of the lining, so you should not refuse the opportunity to check the real indicator. It should not exceed 15%.

No. 8. Which manufacturers can you trust?

Of course, the name and reputation of the manufacturer plays a significant role in the choice. Large companies will not risk their name and produce low-quality products. It is worth noting that today there are a lot of domestic companies on the market that produce lining of excellent quality. Imported products are present, but only in small quantities, so we will not divide manufacturers into foreign and domestic, but will give a general list of the best.

LUNAWOOD

A young Finnish company founded in 2002. Today it is a world leader in the production of thermowood, developing its own innovative methods and constantly improving. Treated wood high temperature and steam, loses nutrients, becomes resistant to any weather conditions, deformation and rotting. The company uses mainly pine wood, and its products are quite widely represented on the domestic market.

"Astar"

A domestic company operating since 2004. For production different products made of wood uses European equipment, which, together with the professionalism of its employees, allows it to produce products that meet European standards. The company's product range includes eurolining of different grades and with different parameters - from extra class to class C, with lengths from 1.8 to 3.6 m.

"Karelia"

The company was founded in 2004, and at that time it carried out work on the construction of wooden objects. Since it was not so easy to find high-quality material on the market, it was decided to create our own production. Today it is equipped with the most modern equipment, high-quality raw materials are used here, and constant quality control is carried out. The lining is produced from different breeds, with different profiles and parameters, so finding a suitable material will not be difficult.

"Vyatka Pine"

Fully waste-free production, founded in 1999. Equipped with Italian and German equipment, it has repeatedly received prestigious awards. The assortment here is constantly increasing, and the production of lining plays a key role. It is made from pine wood, and the manufacturer offers lining with different types profile and parameters.

PromMax

One of the leaders among domestic lumber producers. The company's advantages include a huge assortment, reasonable prices, modern equipment and the opportunity to personally inspect the products for compliance with the declared class. The company offers eurolining made of pine and spruce, as well as aspen, which is perfect for arranging baths and saunas.

Lining appeared on the building materials market relatively recently, but has already gained popularity. It provides excellent appearance, is easy to install and is highly durable.

Finishing the facade of the house with clapboard

Exterior decoration of the house

Today, clapboard façade cladding can be found on residential buildings, baths, administrative buildings and shops. This popularity is due to a number of advantages of this finishing material, among which:

• excellent thermal insulation properties;
• protection from external factors (rain, wind, snow);
• ease of installation;
• soundproofing;
• thermal insulation;
• light weight;
• variety of materials and color palette;
• increasing the service life of the building.

Types of lining for facade work

Panels for facade finishing are made from plastic, metal, fiber cement, and wood.

Unambiguously determine the best lining difficult. The choice always depends on the operating conditions and purpose of the building. Before choosing cladding, specialists must take into account the climatic features of the area, the type of structure and its operational properties.

In order to make a competent comparative description of the lining, you should consider its features in such parameters as cost, durability, service life and safety.

Sometimes the fundamental factor when choosing lining is the cost of the building material. However, cheap does not mean good.

Popular wooden lining

Of course, wood has a higher price and the cost of such panels depends on the type of wood and class. Today on the market there is a wide selection of Eurolining class “A” or “Extra”. More durable wood, strict quality control and the difference in defects determine a fairly high price.

The most common is class “B” pine lining, which is excellent for cladding country houses, terraces, baths.

Cladding classes

Plastic (vinyl) lining will cost an order of magnitude cheaper, but at the same time, it does not provide that natural appearance that many people like so much.

The service life depends on the characteristics of use. Atmospheric precipitation, temperature, air humidity and other criteria have a direct impact. Therefore, when choosing the type of forcing, all these factors should be taken into account.

Plastic lining is not at all afraid of moisture, but at the same time it does not have sufficient resistance to temperature changes. Vinyl tolerates exposure to UV radiation, but does not withstand mechanical influence from the outside. Any small impact is enough and the integrity of the panels can be damaged.

Vinyl siding

The popularity of vinyl panels also determines the diversity color solutions, allowing you to select the appropriate range for the style and exterior of the building. The scope of application of vinyl products is very wide; they are widely used for cladding balconies, loggias, and gazebos. But low frost resistance makes this material undesirable for cladding houses in climate zones with strong temperature changes.

Example of façade finishing with vinyl siding

Wood is highly durable mechanical damage, is not afraid of sudden temperature changes, but does not like moisture. Specialists treat wooden lining with special protective compounds to improve its performance. Wood creates an atmosphere of warmth and comfort that no other material can convey.

If we talk about safety, then vinyl lining is not subjected to fire-resistant impregnation. When burned, vinyl melts, evaporating harmful substances.

Wooden finishing is an excellent solution for a bathhouse, terrace or private home. To increase fire resistance, the boards are pre-treated with a special impregnation. The unique structure of wood, its healing properties and environmental friendliness determine the wide demand for this material.

If not properly cared for, wood quickly loses its properties. It may crack and become deformed. It is for this purpose that before installing this material, specialists carry out thorough treatment with special antiseptic and hydrophobic mixtures. This prevents the appearance of mold, mildew and protects the wood from moisture penetration. As for care, wood is difficult to wash and clean. Over time, it can change its shade and lose its original freshness.

Comparison of plastic and wood siding

Plastic, on the contrary, is easy to maintain. It is enough to wipe with a damp cloth or use cleaning agents and the vinyl looks like it was originally covered. Despite its high resistance to UV rays, plastic may lose its color brightness over time, which does not in any way affect its performance properties.

Vinyl lining is often called laminated panels that perfectly imitate the structure of wood, fake diamond or metal, which allows you to implement any design idea.

Vinyl siding for shiplap

Brick siding

Thus, the following advantages can be identified from plastic lining:

• low weight;
• UV resistance;
• manifold color range;
• long service life;
• ease of care;
• ease of installation.

Peculiarities

Wooden lining– these are panels of certain dimensions with tongue-and-groove fastening. Coniferous and deciduous wood species are used for production. The most popular materials for the production of wooden lining are pine, spruce, ash, alder and linden. You can rarely find oak lining, which is explained by its high price.

Larch paneling

Standard board sizes:

• board thickness can vary from 12 to 25 mm;
• width - up to 150 mm;
• length – up to 6000 mm.

Siding sizes

Eurolining, which is one of the types of wooden lining, is characterized by higher strength and best quality execution. It belongs to class A, the quality standard regulates the presence of no more than one knot for every one and a half meters of the board. Higher demands are placed on its production, and accordingly the price of such material is much higher. Eurolining "Extra" class eliminates any knots and cracks and is one of the most expensive materials.

Standards for wood defects and processing defects for front side products

The dimensions of eurolining have more stringent standards:

• width comes in four types: 80, 100, 110 or 120 mm;
• board length varies from 500 to 6000 mm;
• thickness can be 13, 16 or 19 mm.

Laying stage wooden planks preceded by special treatment with an antiseptic to prevent the occurrence of mold and mildew. Antiseptic treatment significantly increases service life facing material and increases its strength and wear resistance.

Antiseptic for lining

Colorless antiseptic for lining

What should you consider when choosing wooden lining?

When choosing wooden boards as cladding for a building, you need to pay attention to the following criteria:

• type of wood (pine, spruce, larch);
• wood class (extra, A, B, C);
• wood drying method. The strength of the material and its service life depend on this. For high-quality drying of the lining, special drying chambers are required. This, of course, increases the cost of the product, but such material will also last much longer.

Metal lining often called metal siding. This material has a smooth surface that does not require additional processing or painting.

Metal siding

Metal lining has a long service life (about 50 years), withstands strong temperature changes, and does not corrode. But this material also has disadvantages. Metal lining is not flexible. The variety of colors, wood or stone imitation makes this type of lining quite versatile and in demand building material.

Siding “L-Bruce” (metal, “Ecosteel” coating)

Types of installation

There are two ways to attach the lining: vertical and horizontal. Before choosing a method, you should consider that vertical cladding will visually increase the height of the building's exterior.

Vertical board on the facade frame house

Vertical siding trim

Horizontal, on the contrary, will visually increase the width of the facade. Before buying material, calculate how many boards you will need for one and the other method. Consider the width and length of the beams to minimize waste.

Facade cladding with clapboard horizontally

Choosing a mounting method: disadvantages and advantages

There are several types of fastening lining to the facade of a house. Each of them has its own disadvantages and advantages, and the choice of method should be dictated not only by the cladding material, but also by operational features.

1. Clamps are a universal method of fastening facade boards, which is characterized by high speed and simplicity. If dismantling is planned in the future facade finishing, then it is better to use this method.

   Clamps for lining

2. Screws.
3. Nails.
4. Can be used construction stapler as a fastening, but it does not provide such reliability and fixation.

A set of tools that may be needed:

• electric drill;
• screwdriver;
• wood hacksaw or jigsaw;
• roulette;
• construction stapler;
• hammer;
• rule;
• level (water or alcohol).

Tools for installing wooden lining

In addition to high-quality and reliable tools, you will need the following consumables:

• dowels 6x80 mm;
• clamps;
• staplers;
• nails 20 mm;
• finishing nails 50 mm;

  Finishing nails

• the lining itself;
• base skirt;

  Metal shimmer

  Flashings for the foundation plinth

• decorative corners (external, internal or universal);
• timber for the construction of sheathing (50x50 mm). It must be thoroughly dried;

  Beam for sheathing

• self-tapping screws

What work should be done beforehand?

Before construction work You need to carefully treat each board and beam with an antiseptic.

Processing of lining

Please note that many antiseptics contain a coloring pigment that will affect the decorative function of the lining. If you want to preserve the natural color of the wood, it is recommended to treat only the inner part of the material, and varnish the outer part after installation. If the facade is being prepared for painting, this does not matter and both sides can be treated with an antiseptic.

Let the lining dry thoroughly so as not to deteriorate its technical characteristics.

Facade cladding with wooden clapboard: step-by-step instructions

The process of covering a building with clapboard is quite simple. Even without experience, but strictly following the instructions, you will be able to carry out the finishing work yourself.

Products in packaging: lining

Before you start finishing works, it is necessary to take care of the thermal insulation of the house. Selecting material for insulation. There are several types of insulation for external cladding on the market today: mineral wool, glass wool, expanded polystyrene, cellulose insulation.

Insulation materials

In order to decorate the house with clapboard and at the same time produce thermal insulation work, it is necessary to install the building sheathing. This will create the necessary air space, between which an additional layer of insulation can be laid. All electric wires And ventilation ducts also hidden under the sheathing. In addition, the lathing ensures proper ventilation, which significantly increases the service life of the facade finishing. If the wall surface is perfectly flat and no additional insulation of the house is required, then the finishing strips can be nailed directly to concrete wall dowel-nails.

Preparing walls for lathing installation

Step 1. It is necessary to thoroughly clean the wall surface from any dirt and flaking fragments of paint or plaster. This can be done using a spatula.

Cleaning the old facade

Step 2. We remove all protruding structures and parts from the facade (door frames, window frames, visors, etc.). Those parts that cannot be dismantled must be cut using a grinder with a diamond wheel.

Step 3. We close all cracks and large holes cement mortar or wood putty and let it dry well for 24 hours.

Video - Repairing cracks on the wall of a house

Step 4. After complete drying, it is necessary to thoroughly treat the facade with an antiseptic substance and prime it well. This will prevent the spread of mold and mildew on the walls. The antiseptic also serves as an excellent protection against termites and other harmful insects.

Priming and antiseptic walls

Installation of double-layer lathing

To install the sheathing, you must choose dry weather, and the timber that will be used for construction must be dried and treated with an antiseptic. Drying the material must be carried out for at least two weeks, since the maximum permissible humidity lumber can be 15%.

Treating the timber with an antiseptic using the full immersion method for 1 minute

A wooden or metal profile is suitable for lathing a house, but it is better to tie the choice of material to the lining itself. If you plan to clad the facade with wood, then it is better to use wooden beams as the material for the sheathing. This will simplify the installation diagram. If the lathing is planned for metal siding, then you can choose a galvanized profile 28x27 mm.

Galvanized profile PPN 28x27 mm

Sometimes builders create a combined version of the sheathing. A wooden sheathing is created around the perimeter of the entire house, and a metal profile frame is built for the basement floor in order to protect the structure as much as possible from humidity, because it will be high near the ground.

Since we are considering a scheme for fastening wooden lining, we will also use wood as a material for the construction of the sheathing.

Scheme of wooden sheathing for siding

Step 1. Mount the wooden beam horizontally

If the sheathing is created on a wooden house, then it is necessary to create a sliding structure (we use corners with vertical holes).

Attaching timber to the facade

The distance between the bars should be 40 cm. If you decide to lay the slabs mineral wool for insulation, then focus on the width of the slab, reducing or increasing the fastening step. We attach the sheathing to U-shaped hangers in order to achieve the most even surface possible.

Installation of sheathing. Bar fastening option

Horizontally fixed bars

Step 2. Carry out thermal insulation work

We take the insulation and lay it between the wall of the house and the created wooden structure.

Laying insulation

Step 3. Create a wind and water barrier

For this we take a special protective film and secure construction stapler on top of the grate. We apply the film with an overlap of 10-15 cm to avoid damage to the thermal and waterproofing.

Installation of vapor barrier

Step 4. Install the counter-lattice

This is necessary to ensure proper ventilation. We now mount the counter-lattice vertically, in increments of 40 cm. We attach a 50x10 mm wooden lath with nails to the existing sheathing. All this is done in the vertical direction, since the cladding is assumed to be horizontal.

The sheathing is set according to the markings, which are stretched threads

The sheathing is fixed on top of the vapor barrier

Construction of a single-layer sheathing

If insulation of the house is not planned, then you can limit yourself to installing a single-layer sheathing.

Lathing installation steps

Step 1. We check the wooden beams with a level and build a vertical structure from them. To do this, we fasten the beams in the corners of the house with U-shaped hangers with a distance between the fastening elements of 50 cm. We check their verticality with a level.

Now we take 3 cords (the length is equal to the length of the wall) and connect these beams with three cords (top, middle and bottom). This will make it easier to create a flat surface in the future. You can use a rule for these purposes. This tool makes it easier to align the cords evenly.

Step 2. After we have tightened the laces, we begin to build the rest of the sheathing in a vertical position in increments of 40-50 cm. The laces in this case will be beacons for setting the plane. The slats should not protrude beyond the lace and change its tension.

Step 3. After the entire structure is built and level checked, we remove the laces and proceed directly to cladding the facade with clapboard.

Lathing for siding

The photo shows the sheathing for the siding. Wooden pads were used to level the beams

The bars are secured with hangers

Horizontal installation of wooden lining

This type of fastening involves movement from top to bottom. This will protect the sheathing material from moisture and dirt. We use clamps (metal staples) for fastening to ensure the reliability of the cladding and aesthetic appearance. In addition, this greatly simplifies and speeds up the finishing process.

Wood siding installation diagram, insulated facade

Step 1. We take the first batten of the clapboard and nail it to the top beam of the sheathing under the roof. To avoid cracking the board, drive the nail at a 45-degree angle. You can pre-wet the nail to reduce the chance of damaging the board. For installation it is better to use finishing nails 50 mm long.

Step 2. Now we insert the clamp into the bottom groove of the first board and nail it with 20 mm nails. This is done so that the top board does not start to “play” during subsequent installation.

Installation of lining from top to bottom

Step 3. We take the next board of the lining, insert it into the groove of the first board and secure it from below again with a clamp along the sheathing bars. The clamp must be secured with 20 mm nails using a hammer, but in order to facilitate the process and protect your hands, use a “spacer”. To do this, take a 100 mm nail, turn it upside down and press the head against the head of a 20 mm nail.

Step 4. The last board is cut to size and inserted into the groove of the previous board. But there is a small nuance here. If we cut the board exactly to the size of the remaining gap, then we will not be able to fit it into the groove of the previous lining. Therefore, it needs to be cut 1.5 cm shorter. This will allow you to easily insert it into the groove at an angle of 45 degrees, press it against the sheathing and press it with a pry bar from the bottom up until it is completely fixed.

Step 5. Now we nail the panel with a 50 mm nail (as in the case of the first board) to the sheathing at the bottom of the last board.

Nails for installing wooden lining

Step 6. The final touch is the installation of a plinth skirt, which will close the junction gap. We fasten the base skirt with 50 mm nails or galvanized screws with a press washer 30 mm long.

Step 7 We close the corner external joints with decorative corners using 50 mm nails. To hide the presence of fasteners as much as possible, you can use a small trick. To do this, drive the nail in half, bite off the head with pliers and drive it in flush with the corner with a nail. The fastener spacing must be at least 50 cm on both sides of the corner.

Wood siding installation diagram

Facade finishing wooden clapboard, horizontal method

We produce vertical cladding: step-by-step instructions

The main difference between this installation is that the sheathing is done in a horizontal position, and the lining will be sewn vertically.

Important! When choosing the material and type of installation, consider the size of the wall. When vertical cladding, you need to take into account the length of the lining so that there is no horizontal seam along the entire perimeter of the building. It is necessary to cover the walls with a staggered offset, or install a panel strip.

1. The first clapboard board is laid from the corner. It is necessary to secure clamps on the back side of the groove. We fasten the first one on both sides (the front part with 50 mm nails, and the back part with a clamp).

   Checking the evenness of the frame and installing siding panels

2. Next, the next plank is put on the tenon with a groove, as in the case of horizontal cladding. To prevent the lining from falling down during installation, secure it with an additional 50 mm of nails at the top and bottom. Before taking each subsequent lining, it must be carefully checked with a level, otherwise it can “play”, creating unnecessary gaps.

   Installation of panels using clamps

3. After we have installed all the lining, we begin decorating. To do this, take a corner and fasten it with 50 mm nails to the outer corners of the house. To hide the attachment points, remove the nail heads with pliers. To do this, the nail is not driven in completely, the head is cut off and driven until it is flat.

Lining, mounting options

Vertical cladding with plastic lining: step-by-step instructions

You will need the following materials:

• dowels 6x80 mm;
• staplers;
• plastic lining;
• base skirt;
• decorative plastic corners(external, internal or universal);
• beams for the construction of sheathing (50x50 mm);
• self-tapping screws;
• glue for plastic;
• U-shaped hangers.

Step 1. We install the building sheathing. If insulation is planned, we make a double sheathing (see above). If the house does not need an additional thermal insulation layer, we limit ourselves to a single-layer sheathing.

Lathing, photo

Step 2. We take a plastic lining and fasten the outer part with self-tapping screws to the sheathing. Do not forget that the plastic panels are laid strictly perpendicular to the sheathing. We cut the plastic panel according to the required measurements with a hacksaw.

Start profile

Attaching the first panel

The panel rests on the starting profile

Step 3. Inner part We fix the linings with a construction stapler to the frame beams. Always check that the entire surface of the panel has entered the lock to prevent further deformation of the wall and loss of integrity.

Installing a second panel

Screwing in a screw

Step 4. We insert the next board into the fastenings and fix it with a stapler to the sheathing in increments of 40 cm.

Step 5. The finishing panel is secured with a screw and a press washer. After this, you should apply a decorative corner and secure it with glue.

Finish bar

Punching mounting holes in the last panel

Latching the last panel

Vertical siding

Example of façade finishing

At the end of the article, we invite you to carefully read the video instructions on how to properly install lining to the facade of a building.

Video - Covering a frame house with clapboard, using the example of one wall

Video - Installation of overlapping siding on a wooden frame

In the photo - the beginning of work on covering the house with wooden panels

Cladding the outside of the house with clapboard is an excellent choice for those who decide to improve the exterior of the house, since such finishing will allow you to change its external design. In addition, the use of eurolining as a sheathing material will improve the insulation properties, in particular sound and heat.

This article will tell you not only how to cover the outside of a house with clapboards, but will also help you choose the right material.

Types of panels by raw material

In total, there are two main types of lining, depending on the raw materials - wooden and PVC. We can talk about which option should be preferred, and how plastic differs from wooden, only by studying their features.

You can sheathe a house plastic panels

Features of plastic external lining:

• long service life (no rotting process);
• no maintenance required;
• external plastic lining is not exposed to environmental influences.

Features of wooden lining:

• elegant design;
• high sound insulation rates;
• thermal conductivity is low.

Wood paneling

Wooden lining, also known as lining for exterior finishing, can be divided into a simple version and eurolining. The division takes into account the use of estimated data for comparison with generally accepted standards.

The main standard for the production of this material is GOST 8242-88, abroad DIN 68126. At the same time, imported indicators are somewhat different from Russian ones due to the external indicators of wood and more deliberate geometric properties, which cannot but lead to the fact that the price of the material is significantly higher.

The manufacturer is obliged to indicate the compliance of products with regulatory documents

Basics of choosing eurolining

Before choosing a material for cladding, you should study several rules:

1. To avoid further deformation of the material, which occurs as a result of shrinkage and leads to the formation of cracks, you should choose a type of lining whose humidity will be in the range from 10 to 15%;

Checking humidity with a moisture meter

Advice: Ask the seller to confirm the declared humidity - if he refuses, there is reason to think about the advisability of the purchase.

1. Be sure to inspect the material for wormholes and foreign stains;
2. The number of knots in the selected material should be minimal.

Note! The exterior cladding of a house should be made from material made from coniferous trees, since hardwood (not counting aspen) is not suitable for external cladding.

Coniferous species are more preferable

Installation stages

1. Vapor barrier fasteners;
2. Installation of the frame directly;
3. Installation of thermal insulation;
4. Carrying out waterproofing;
5. Construction of the second frame;
6. Exterior clapboard finishing .

Vapor barrier fasteners

Initially, you should select a material that will act as a vapor barrier; usually roofing felt, aluminum foil or even ordinary plastic film are used for these purposes.

Upholstery with vapor barrier film

A prerequisite is the presence of ventilation of the facade of the house, for which the vapor barrier layer is nailed directly to the slats nailed to the wall. The slats should be attached at a distance of one meter, and their width should be approximately 2.5 centimeters. For additional ventilation, holes (20 mm) are made at the bottom and top between the slats.

Frame installation

The frame can be made with your own hands from boards, securing them to the wall of the building in a vertical position. The thickness of the boards should be in the range of 40-50 mm, and the width should be about 10 centimeters.

The distance between the boards must be left less than the width of the insulation sheets by 1-2 centimeters.

Installation of thermal insulation

Thermal insulation placement is a further stage that requires finishing the house with clapboards on the outside.

It happens through the following steps:

• Installation of mineral wool layers occurs without gaps between them;
• To achieve this, it is necessary to lay two layers of mineral wool at a time, 50 mm thick;
• The main feature of the masonry is that the joint of the lower slabs is covered with the middle of the top layer, and, due to its natural elasticity, no additional fasteners are required, which can be seen in the photo.

Installation of waterproofing

In the photo - the use of waterproofing materials

• To prevent moisture from penetrating into the house, a waterproofing film should be installed, which is mounted on top of the thermal insulation layer;
• The film is attached using construction staples to the boards;
• Leaving an overlap of about 5-10 cm, you should glue it with tape, which will allow you to get a better effect.

Attention! To get the ideal ratio, the hydrofilm should be laid with the smooth side facing the insulation.

Installation of the frame under the finishing cladding

According to the steps described in the instructions above, you should then proceed to install the second frame.

• Slats should be nailed to the boards of the first frame on top of the hydrofilm. Their thickness should be 2-3 cm, width 0.5 mm. This makes it possible for additional ventilation and removal of condensation on the hydrofilm;

Timber frame for panels

• To prevent rodents and insects from entering the space below, it should be sealed with a metal mesh.

Finishing the outer layer using lining

The final stage is the outer wall cladding with clapboard:

• The process begins with preparing the boards required length, you should start from the bottom, while the starting board is positioned with the grooves up, a prerequisite is to use a level to ensure its level position;
• After making sure that the board is secured, you should attach it with nails (clamps). The workpiece must be leveled before fastening;

Installation on clamps

• Next, the second sheet of lining is installed using a standard tongue-and-groove system. To ensure that the tenon of the upper board fits tightly into the groove of the lower one, you should use a wooden hammer;
• Having secured the second board, you should insert the rest.

Some installation secrets are shown in the photo

After the lining on the outside has undergone complete installation, they begin to vertically fix the boards at the corners of the boards. Here, a mandatory point is the presence of overlap when one overlaps the other.

Window casings are decorated in a similar way; the pediment is sheathed most often by horizontally fastening the boards. Only after completing the entire cladding process should you begin painting.

An analogue of simple painting can be coating with a special liquid, which acts as an impregnation for the outside of the lining. It not only protects the wood from any external influences, including insects, but also preserves the natural color of the wood. See also what characteristics painted lining has.

When starting simple painting, you should observe some nuances:

1. The entire surface is pre-treated with a grinding machine. It requires the presence of fixed sandpaper (grain 40-25-80 or 120);
2. If using oil paint, it is necessary to apply drying oil in two layers, and apply the paint only after it has completely dried.

Results

Despite the fact that anyone can take advantage of the opportunity to cover the outside of a house with clapboards, this process requires certain physical and time expenditures. An excellent analogue of wooden finishing would be plastic exterior lining.

On our website you can find a large number of videos that allow you to learn some valuable tips and step-by-step instructions.

Cladding a house with clapboards on the outside is the most popular type of finishing. This is due to the availability and simplicity of methods that allow you to give any design an absolutely finished look.

It is the protection of a wooden house from external factors that increases the service life of any building for many years. The article will tell you how to properly cover the outside of a house with clapboards.

Types and features of lining

Before covering the outside of the house with clapboard, you need to familiarize yourself with its types. Plastic and wood materials are used to decorate the house.

Advantages of wooden lining:

• Great appearance, which allows you to create both interior decoration, and beautifully sheathed on the outside.
• High degree of sound insulation.
• Installation is simple.
• Natural material, which is an ideal option for a country house.
• Low thermal conductivity.

The lining for exterior cladding of a house is most often plastic or vinyl.

Advantages of plastic material:

• Durability. Correct installation protects the wooden structure from the process of rotting.
• Resistant to different temperatures.
• Does not support combustion.
• Resistant to weather conditions. Not subject to corrosion.
• Simple and quick installation , this allows construction to be completed in a short time without involving specialists.
• Easy home care. No material required special processing which is used for wood panels.
• Presentable appearance, which creates a glossy, smooth surface. The building looks especially beautiful when the color is chosen correctly.
• Water repellent properties. Plastic does not deteriorate when exposed to precipitation such as rain or snow.
• Affordable price.

The disadvantages of plastic include:

• Very low resistance to even minor mechanical impacts and pressure; impacts can leave dents in the material.
• Decorative elements cannot be properly fixed on surfaces lined with plastic panels.

When choosing options for external finishing with clapboard, it is necessary to determine its type, depending on the shape of the material profile.

The lining can be:

• Panel having simple form, imitating a wooden beam.
• Calm, different enough smooth surface, on which after installation the grooves are practically invisible.
• Eurolining, which has a tongue-and-groove connection and an enlarged tenon, which increases its drainage and ventilation properties.
• "American", availability on inside recesses, allows you to simulate the laying of boards overlapping.
• Block house. These are panels that have a convex surface on the outside and look like a log building.

The photo shows some types of panels.

Advice: When choosing a material for the outer cladding of a house, you need to pay attention to the use of lining specifically for external works. They can be distinguished from panels used indoors only by their qualitative characteristics; they are difficult to distinguish by appearance.

How to make lathing for lining

Decorating the outside of a house with clapboards begins with installing sheathing for it. This design is a frame for attaching panels.

Facade PVC lining can be mounted on a sheathing made of wooden beams approximately 60 millimeters wide and about 27 millimeters thick. A metal profile is also used for the same purposes.

By type, the sheathing can be:

• Vertical.
• Horizontal.
• With counter-lattice device. This design is formed for:

1. ensuring good ventilation of the space under the casing;
2. placing a layer of thermal insulation. Used only when installing wooden sheathing.

Tip: When choosing suitable option You should be guided by the location of the panels of finishing material. When placing material elements horizontally, the sheathing is performed vertically and vice versa.

To fix the metal profile, the following tools are needed:

• Scissors for cutting metal.
• Screwdriver.
• Building level.
• Plumb.
• Construction corner.
• Roulette.
• Electric impact drill.

The instructions for carrying out the work are as follows:

• UD support profiles are installed.
• The elements are fixed on the extreme sides, which are located perpendicular to the sheathing parts.
• The intermediate components of the structure are inserted and fixed.
• Additional parts are installed along the edges of door and window openings, parallel to them and along the perimeter of all protruding elements that are not subject to cladding.
• The location of the fastening dowels must be provided in increments of 15 to 25 centimeters, which will ensure reliable fastening metal profiles based.

Tip: For an uneven wall, use underlays for fasteners. In this case, it is necessary to accurately determine their height. Otherwise, when attaching the profile, it will bend, and it will be impossible to align the part.

• The main profiles of the sheathing are inserted into the guides at their ends and secured with screws at the edges. It is best if these are special screws with a tip like a drill.
• Additionally, you can use mounting hangers, which will give the profile, and ultimately the entire structure, greater rigidity.
• The edges of the hangers are bent at an angle of 90 degrees and attached to the installation points of the profile.
• The profile itself is installed and fixed to the guides.
• The bent wings of the suspensions are screwed on.
• The excess part protruding above the profile is cut off.

How to make wooden lathing for lining

For work you will need the following tools:

• Hacksaw.
• Electric jigsaw.
• Electric drill.
• Screwdriver.
• Screwdrivers.
• Chisel.
• Hammer.
• Building level.
• Roulette.
• Construction plumbs.
• Construction corner.

Materials for construction:

• Beam for lathing installation.
• Board for substrates.
• Boards for constructing a frame.
• To fasten the timber to the wall - screws and dowels.

Finishing the outside of the house with clapboard begins with marking the places for installing the outer frame parts.

Tip: During installation, you should carefully control the location of the beams or boards around the perimeter; the quality of the entire frame depends on this.

• To level the surface, substrates are used or some parts are processed to form a single plane at one level. For example, the bars can be sharpened or the base of the building can be combed. The choice of option is influenced by the type and size of the irregularities. If they are all over the wall, it is better to take substrates. To determine the distance of placement of the beams from the wall, the highest point located on the surface is determined, and from it the position of the parts in the frame begins to be counted with a margin of up to three millimeters, which are necessary to level out the unevenness of the beams themselves used in the sheathing.
• The bars are secured with screws in increments of approximately 25 centimeters along the entire perimeter of the sheathing.
• Door and window openings and protruding parts of the walls along the perimeter are covered with the same elements, which allows you to securely fix the edges of the cladding parts.
• Intermediate bars are installed. At the same time, they should not be rigidly attached to the frame elements, especially if the wood is poorly dried. Rigid fixation of parts due to thermal deformation or changes in humidity can cause a change in their position in the casing. This may disrupt general form and reduce the rigidity of the entire structure.
• When using substrates, the edges of the beam are secured, and the correctness of its position is controlled by the level and plumb lines.

Advice: All wood used in the manufacture of sheathing must be treated with protective compounds with fire retardants and antiseptics, which will prevent the appearance of rot and fungi, protect against excess moisture, and reduce the possibility of fire.

What are the advantages of ventilated facades?

Ventilated PVC facade lining has several important advantages.

These include:

• Heat saving. When installing thermal insulation on external walls, the heat storage capacity increases significantly. Ventilated facade lining on a building is an opportunity to create an energy-saving surface on it. Residential buildings with such systems installed are approximately 30% more energy efficient than those without such systems.
• Long service life. Without repairs, a ventilated façade can last up to 50 years, depending on the materials used. With a specially designed structure fastening scheme, thermal deformations that can appear during daily and seasonal fluctuations in atmospheric temperatures are absorbed. This leads to internal stresses created in the cladding material and in load-bearing elements, which can cause cracks and even destruction of the cladding.
• Facades can be covered all year round. In this case, solutions and adhesive compositions no need to use. External factors do not have any influence on the timing of work.
• This design protects the building well from dampness and harmful atmospheric aggression. The presence of an air gap is a fundamental difference from other types of building cladding. With the help of a ventilated façade, any moisture is removed, and in the presence of a pronounced aggressive environment, the hinged structure helps to create reliable protection that will counteract the negative factors that destroy the elements of the building’s load-bearing structures.
• A wide variety of architectural forms and solutions for such facades.
• They allow you to create a comfortable microclimate in the building with your own hands. Thermal insulation and the presence of a ventilated air gap helps to increase heat retention from the external walls. In summer, the ventilated facade acts as a sun screen, most It reflects the heat entering the house, which reduces the load on air conditioners. During the cold season, heat is retained inside, reducing the load on the heating system.
• The surface is leveled outer wall. Panels can be installed on walls made of:

1. concrete;
2. brick (see);
3. wood;
4. metal structures.

It is not necessary to level the surface. When installing a suspended ventilated facade system, brackets are used, the length of which can vary.

• Fireproof. Materials for the manufacture of ventilated facades do not burn or burn weakly, have a low ability to generate smoke, and the combustion products are low-hazard in terms of toxicity.
• Environmentally friendly. There are no additives or components that are harmful to health.
• Easy to dismantle. Design curtain facades facilitates the dismantling of a certain part of the facade elements. By replacing a damaged cladding element, the consequences of an accident or other damage can be easily eliminated.
• Increased sound and noise insulation.

What methods of installing lining exist?

The exterior of the house is finished with clapboard different ways fastening panels.

For this we use:

• Kleimers. They are clamps that have the form of a tongue-and-groove connection. In this case, the panel is securely pressed against the wall, the next part closes the groove of the previous one, which makes the fastener completely invisible. The clamps themselves are fixed with special screws or nails, but are used for installing lining made of wood or MDF.
• Regular nails.
• Decorative screws.
• Staples, as for upholstery. Used when installing plastic lining. They are attached with a special gun, the wall is sheathed very quickly.

The video in this article discusses in detail how clapboard finishing is done on the outside of a house. After high-quality clapboard covering of a house, it acquires a noble and attractive appearance, and additional protection from unfavorable external factors.

If you decide to improve the appearance of your home, then clapboard cladding on the outside of the house is a good choice. Such external finishing It will not only make the walls of the house more beautiful, but will also improve their heat and sound insulation properties.

You will learn about how to choose a material and how to sheathe the outside of a house with clapboards from this article.

Types of lining

It is divided into 2 main types: plastic and wood. Each has its own characteristics.

Speaking about plastic exterior lining, it is necessary to highlight the following features:

• durability(not subject to rotting);
• unpretentiousness(does not require complex care);
• excellent water-repellent properties(outer plastic lining is not exposed to a humid environment).

Classic wooden lining has its own distinctive features:

• presentable appearance;
• soundproofing properties;
• low thermal conductivity.

Wooden lining for exterior finishing is also divided into regular and. This is due to different standards in the production of these boards.

In our country they are produced according to GOST 8242-88, abroad according to DIN 68126. Imported timber differs from Russian wood in grade and external parameters. As well as more thoughtful geometry and higher quality workmanship. Because of this, its price is much higher.

How to choose a lining

When choosing this building material, you need to adhere to the following simple rules:

1. The moisture content of the wood should not be more than 10-15%, otherwise, over time it will dry out, which will lead to an increase in the gaps between the boards.
2. You need to choose boards without fungal infections and without wormholes.
3. Give preference to material with minimum quantity knots.

Advice!
Use softwood wood. Material made from deciduous trees (except aspen) is not suitable for cladding the outside of a house with clapboards.

Stages of work

1. Installation of vapor barrier;
2. Frame installation;
3. Placement of thermal insulation;
4. Fastening waterproofing;
5. Installation of the second frame;
6. Outdoor

Installation of vapor barrier

Polyethylene film, aluminum foil or even roofing felt can be used as a vapor barrier. Its task is to ventilate the facade of the house under the film. To do this, wooden narrow slats 2.5 cm wide are vertically attached to the wall at a distance of one meter from each other.

A vapor barrier layer is nailed to the fixed slats. Then, at the top, as well as at the bottom, holes with a cross-section of 20 mm must be made between the slats to ensure ventilation.

Frame installation

Next, we make a frame with our own hands from boards with a thickness of 40 mm to 50 mm and a width of 10 cm. To do this, we attach them to the wall of the house vertically on their sides. We set the distance between the boards 1-2 cm less than the width of our insulation (mineral wool sheets).

Placement of thermal insulation

The next step required for finishing the house with clapboard outside is the placement of thermal insulation.

• Mineral wool slabs must be installed so that they do not have gaps between them.
• To do this, we lay 2 layers of mineral wool with a thickness of 50 mm each.
• We place the slabs so that the junction of the two slabs of the lower layer is covered by the middle of the slab of the upper layer. Since the slabs are quite elastic, they will be held between the boards without additional fastening (see photo).

Securing waterproofing

• A waterproofing film must be secured over the thermal insulation layer. It allows steam to pass through but retains water.
• Having laid the film, we fasten it with staples to the frame boards.
• To achieve the best effect, you need to leave an overlap of about 5-10 cm and glue it with tape.

Advice!
To achieve the desired effect, the waterproofing film must be laid with the rough side facing the lining and the smooth side facing the insulation.

Installation of the second frame

The next stage of work, as our instructions say, is the installation of the second frame.

• To do this, we nail slats with a thickness of about 2-3 cm and a width of 0.5 mm onto the boards forming the first frame, on top of the waterproofing layer. This is necessary for ventilation and removal of moisture formed in the form of condensation on the waterproofing film.
• The space formed below must be covered with a metal mesh to prevent rodents and insects from entering there.

Cladding on the outside

So, I stayed The final stage– external wall cladding with clapboard.

• To do this, we cut the boards to the required length and start paneling from the bottom. We place the first (starting board) with the tenon down and the groove up. We check its horizontality using a level.
• If everything is normal there, we secure it with nails or special clamps. If there are deviations from the horizontal axis, we first align our workpiece, and then fasten it.
• We insert the next board from above into the groove of the previous one. Hit the top with a mallet (wooden hammer). This is necessary so that the tenon of the upper board fits tightly into the groove of the lower one.
• After that we secure it. We insert all the other boards in the same way.

When the lining is installed on the outside, it is necessary to secure the boards in the corners of the house. We fix them vertically, and one should overlap the other, forming an overlap.

It is also necessary to make platbands for windows. The pediment can be sheathed horizontally, securing the boards in the same way. After the main part of the work is completed, you need to start painting.

The surface of the boards can be painted or coated with a special liquid. Special impregnation for exterior lining will preserve the natural color of the wood, while protecting it from negative external influences.

If you still decide to paint, we recommend that you adhere to the following tips:

1. Before painting, treat the entire surface to be painted with a sanding machine with sandpaper fixed in it (with grain 40, 25, 80, 120).
2. If you plan to paint, then first apply 2 layers of drying oil. After it has completely dried, start painting.

As you can see, covering the outside of a house with clapboard is not that difficult, although this process requires a lot of time and effort. If you are interested in this type of finishing, by the way, plastic exterior lining will look especially good, get started. And if you want to learn more, we recommend watching a variety of videos on our website on this topic.