External thermal insulation systems for building walls. External wall insulation: spend once, save ten years. Classification of external insulation systems

Considering that there are a lot of methods for insulating building facades, it is difficult for a non-professional to understand this issue. Therefore, we will try to summarize the information and tell you what a facade insulation system is, what systems there are and what is their difference.

Insulation systems are complex finishes applied to the walls of a building, the main function of which is to preserve thermal energy indoors.

The thermal insulation system is a “pie”, which includes the following layers:

1. Thermal insulation material;
2. Adhesive composition;
3. Reinforcing layer;
4. Decorative finishing.

This design is not only an excellent heat insulator, but also has a protective function, protecting the load-bearing walls of the house and significantly extending its service life.

As insulation, various heat-insulating materials with different properties can be used: heat insulator made of porous concrete, polystyrene foam, mineral wool, extruded polystyrene foam, etc. The material can be in the form of plates or rolls. To attach the heat insulator to the wall, special facade glue and dowel-nails are used. A reinforcing mesh and a decorative layer are applied on top.

What facade insulation systems exist?

IN modern construction Three main insulation systems are used to insulate external walls: a light plaster system, a heavy plaster structure and a ventilated facade. Let's consider what each design is, and what advantages and disadvantages it has.

Lightweight plaster construction or “wet facade”

The easiest and most inexpensive way to make your home warm. The technology for performing work when using this method is as follows: sheets of heat insulation are attached to a previously prepared base (wall) using an adhesive mixture. The wet façade insulation system cannot be confused with another system. Below is a photo finished house, insulated using the wet facade technique.

The fastening is reinforced with dowels. After this, a layer of reinforcing mesh is applied. Next, decorative finishing is performed by applying plaster and/or facade paint. Porous concrete slabs, polystyrene foam or mineral wool are used as thermal insulation materials.

The advantages of this insulation system include: simplicity of design, cost-effectiveness, and high efficiency. The insulation system using Velit porous concrete is durable, environmentally friendly and non-flammable.

The disadvantages are related to the characteristics of other materials used, for example, polystyrene foam is damaged by rodents, is flammable, and is not environmentally friendly. This insulation design is most often used for thermal insulation. low-rise buildings in private construction.

Heavy plaster construction for insulation of external walls

According to the technology of work, this option completely repeats the previous one, but the layer of plaster is applied thicker. This method of insulation makes the facade very resistant to various mechanical and climatic influences. There are still differences in the methods of installing heat-insulating boards: anchors are installed on the outer wall before attaching the insulation boards, and the reinforcing mesh used has a more dense structure.

The advantages of such an insulation system: very high heat-retaining properties, the possibility of final finishing with any material. The main disadvantage of such an insulation system is the creation of additional load on the walls and foundation. This design is also much more expensive than a light plaster design and requires the involvement of highly qualified specialists.

Ventilated facade

This design is practically not used for thermal insulation of low-rise buildings, but is very effective and reliable. The main feature of this system is the presence of an air gap between the heat-insulating material and the enclosing structure. The ventilated facade performs a protective function in relation to load-bearing walls and prolongs their service life.

Installation of the ventilated façade insulation system is carried out as follows: vertical and horizontal guide structures are mounted along the external walls, which form a lattice frame. After this, a layer of heat insulation is attached or filled in, which is covered with a special protective membrane on top. Upon completion of installation, attach protective screen, which can be used: porcelain stoneware, artificial and a natural stone, aluminum plates, siding, etc.

Advantages of a ventilated façade: high efficiency, variability of final finishing. Disadvantages: high load on the facade and foundation, high cost. To install a ventilated façade, it is necessary to order an insulation project.

So, something like this, I briefly talked about these structures. Of course, it will not be possible to describe everything in detail in this article, but general concept Now you have. Of course, I will write in more detail, perhaps even an article for each system, but that’s not now.

External facade insulation systems are special structures that protect walls from the cold. Currently, there are several approaches to solving this problem, so wide choose often leaves users with difficult choices.

There are many on the market various systems for insulating facades, each of which requires compliance with a number of norms and rules - from the selection of materials to installation.

Advantages of external thermal insulation systems

External insulation is considered the most popular - it has repeatedly proven its effectiveness. Internal thermal insulation, of course, also plays an important role in construction, but its advantages are incomparable to external ones. Outdoor system thermal insulation has many advantages.

Reduced environmental impact

External insulation protects walls from overheating and hypothermia in any season of the year. As a result, the durability of the building increases, cracks do not appear on the facade, the plaster does not peel off, and the seams do not depressurize.

Excludes exposure to moisture: if available external thermal insulation the destructive influence of snow and rain is significantly reduced. There are also no ice formations in the thickness of the wall surfaces due to capillary moisture and its condensate.

Condensation protection

In the cold season, it is not uncommon for the temperature of the façade walls to drop below the “dew point”. As a result, condensation forms on the internal surfaces. The external façade insulation system prevents its appearance.

Smoothing or eliminating cold bridges

External facade insulation technology involves heat accumulation by the walls. As a result, the temperature of the coolant in the heating system and the orientation of the building ceases to play a role - the temperature dependence disappears. “Bridges of cold” either smooth out or disappear.

Due to heat insulators, the wall structures of the building look smooth, and various defects inherent in stone and concrete are hidden by insulation.

High noise absorption

Most insulation materials are considered good sound insulators. Their use reduces noise coming from the street and creates a comfortable environment in the premises.

Durability

Although thermal insulating materials are constantly exposed to environment, their production technology has long made it possible to create products that serve for decades without losing their initial performance properties. 30-50 years is the average service life for any high-quality insulation.

Classifications

To protect the heat-insulating layer from destructive and pervasive atmospheric influences, various technologies facade insulation. Today, there are several options for external insulation systems for facades: wet and ventilated, siding, thermal panels, etc. Each technology has its own characteristic features.

Thermal insulation board

The efficiency of insulation work and the durability of the system largely depend on the façade slab. Facade insulation systems are made in two ways - contact and hinged. Contact methods - wet insulation, mounted methods - .

If we consider the issue from the standpoint of cost, then the most economical and at the same time effective technology for insulating facades can be defined as thermal insulation systems with “wet” protection of each subsequent layer of insulation.

Contact method

Contact insulation is based on the use of special plates made from different raw materials. This includes mineral wool, polystyrene foam, and cellular glass. For finishing, thin-layer decorative plaster is used.

Plaster finishing simultaneously performs a protective and decorative function. Considering the quite reasonable cost of insulation, the facade becomes both beautiful and quite warm. The thermal insulation system of the facade is applicable to residential buildings, both existing ones and new buildings.

Such a facade makes it possible to reduce the thickness of the walls and increase them in terms of energy savings and noise insulation. It is also noted Fire safety of the “wet façade” in question.

Besides " wet method» does not actually increase the load on the structure of the structure. When using this technology, there is an undeniable possibility of continuous thermal insulation, even despite the impressive area of ​​​​the facade.

Types of contact systems

There are two types of contact insulation system for facades - light and heavy wet method. In the latter case, the functions of the supporting structure are performed by a metal mesh, which is connected to the wall and insulation with fasteners (braces and spacers).

The easy wet method involves installing a heat-insulating layer consisting of facade slabs with glue to the outer part of the wall. After fastening insulation material again covered with glue, on top of which a reinforced glass fiber mesh is placed. If necessary, the slabs are attached to the wall not only with glue, but also with dowels.

The load-bearing function falls on the heat-insulating facade slab. A reinforcing layer is distributed over the fiberglass mesh. As a rule, the total thickness of all layers is no more than 9 mm.

Advantages of the easy “wet” method

The advantage of facade insulation systems made using the light wet method lies in the location of the so-called “dew point” outside the wall. Thanks to this, the problem of “cold bridges” that can reduce thermal insulation disappears.

Another plus is that the living space is not reduced, because everything necessary work are produced externally. Insulation materials are also universal materials in terms of finishing. Based on them, you can implement an aesthetically attractive architectural project of almost any complexity - for example, decorating walls with marble chips or tiles.

Flaws

This approach has some disadvantages:

• foam has very low vapor permeability characteristics - sometimes this causes discomfort due to high humidity;
• integrity problem is not solved exterior finishing facade during shrinkage processes, if the plaster layer functions for shear;
• even with very low vapor permeability, the outer layer of the finish, as well as the adhesive composition, is saturated with moisture.

Installation of a contact system has its own characteristics. One of them is careful preparation of the base.

If the structure is installed using the light wet method, minimum temperature the environment must be at least 5С. The low maintainability of local areas turns replacement into a labor-intensive undertaking.

Mounted systems

Wall mounted facade insulation systems are considered more modern and have many advantages over the contact method:

• their use makes it possible to reduce energy costs for heating by more than 1.5 times;
• no need to prepare the base before installation;
• can be installed at any time of the year;
• service life is about 30 years.

Insulation boards in this case are attached to the surface mechanically - dowels or load-bearing elements. Elements are placed at a distance of 2-5 cm from the outer part of the heat insulator exterior finishing, performing two functions at once: the first is decorative, the second is protective.

The surface layer of the system is made of various materials- from stone and metal to ceramics and wood. You can decorate the facade with glass, which has become very popular in the decoration of office buildings. In this case, the insulation board is covered with white or black glass fiber canvas. An important advantage of ventilated facades is the removal of moisture accumulated in rooms without forced ventilation.

For the manufacture of facades mounted type Sandwich panels are often used - structures consisting of a heat-insulating core and 2 steel sheets. They are suitable for finishing both new and reconstructed buildings. Products from different manufacturers differ in color, size and other features. However, high-quality sandwich panels are united by high reliability, durability and wide functionality.

Advantages of complex systems for facades

When using facade insulation systems, the color scheme of the facade can be changed at any time. Taking into account the thermal insulation system of the facade at the design stage of the building saves on expensive building materials for walls. The difference in price for a medium-sized building with and without insulation is on average about 150 thousand rubles, but if you take into account the heat savings, such finishing will pay for itself by reducing heating bills within 5-7 years.

If the structure is built from foam concrete, based on the insulation system, it is possible to use a block whose thickness is 10-15 cm thinner. When erecting a building made of brick, the fence structures are mounted in one brick and are 64 cm.

Standards

Everything that happens in the atmosphere, including the phenomena of natural cycles and the consequences of technogenic human activity, causes increasingly sharp temperature changes, which is strongly reflected on the surfaces of structures and buildings. Without additional protection, facades gradually deteriorate under the aggressive influence of the environment.

As a result of such exposure, the building cannot effectively conserve heat during the cold season. Today in construction it is believed that, regardless of what material the walls were built from, it is necessary to carry out auxiliary insulation with a material at least 50 mm thick.

According to Russian standards, for a brick-silicate wall built with 1.5 bricks, it is necessary to use insulation with a thickness of 100-120 mm. Such a house will fully comply with current energy efficiency requirements. Naturally, the market value of such a house with subsequent insulation using facade insulation technology increases almost 2 times, but an insulated facade will subsequently bring serious savings on repairs and heating.

Criteria for choosing insulation

When selecting, it is necessary to take into account the type of wall material, thickness, architectural features and dimensions. Climate and weather conditions are also taken into account. The thickness of the insulation layer is determined by the building density of the area - a building that stands alone requires a larger layer of insulation than a house located in the central part of a densely populated village.

The thermal insulation layer in facade systems is made from extruded or ordinary polystyrene foam, as well as from laminated or ordinary mineral wool. Both types of material are supplied in slabs. Mineral wool is made from glass, soda, limestone and sand. Its structure is represented by glassy thin fibers. Positively distinguished by high vapor permeability.

Expanded polystyrene is a polymer with the following positive qualities: does not enter into chemical reactions with other substances, is resistant to moisture and is not susceptible to rotting and fungus. It is recommended for use for insulating plinth slabs. According to statistics from the last 3 years, consumers prefer systems made of polystyrene foam as the cheapest material.

Installation

You can install a facade insulation system with your own hands, however, specialists with experience will cope with this task faster. Insulation work involves several stages, after each of which you need to check the absolute evenness of the surface, cleanliness and smoothness.

It is very important that there are no depressions or cracks on the surface of the walls - otherwise the finishing layer will not be continuous, and the thermal insulation will become ineffective.

Differences in materials

Weather requirements are the same for both mineral wool and expanded polystyrene. The technology in both cases is virtually identical, and only the fastening method differs. Glue is applied to polystyrene foam boards over the entire surface, around the perimeter, or in “patches”.

In the case when polymer insulation is fixed to plastered walls, in addition to glue, dowels are used, at a rate of at least 4 per 1 m2. Fastening for mineral wool slabs mechanically is mandatory. Dowels with a tip made of galvanized steel are used.

The next point that requires special attention is the hydrophobicity of mineral wool. On this basis, before applying an adhesive solution to the surface of the slab, it is first puttied with an identical solution. Next, a layer of reinforcement must be applied to the thermal insulation slabs; after setting, it is primed with plaster mixture.

The plaster backing compound of the wall protects the building for 6 months if work is suddenly suspended. The procedure for applying the plaster itself summarizes. When directly applying and drying the plaster, temperature indicators should vary in the range from +5С to +25С.

In most regions of the country it can be achieved only by using soft insulation with insufficiently studied durability in Russian climatic conditions. The costs of repairing such walls significantly exceed the savings from reducing energy costs for heating buildings.

SNiP 02/23/2003 “Thermal Protection of Buildings” put into effect to replace SNiP P-3-79* did not solve the problems that arose, since it retained the same inflated requirements for the heat-protective qualities of the external walls of buildings. A situation has arisen in which new system standardization of the heat-protective qualities of external enclosing structures does not satisfy modern construction practice and limits the use of new domestic heat-efficient, durable, fire-resistant ceramic, cellular concrete, polystyrene concrete, polyurethane foam (with fillers), lightweight expanded clay concrete materials, alternatives to soft mineral wool, polystyrene foam. These are the requirements Federal Law“On technical regulation” necessitated the development of a new regulatory document on thermal insulation of buildings.

Standard STO 00044807-001-2006 was developed based on the requirements of the Federal Law “On Technical Regulation” in order to ensure safe living, recreation and work of citizens in premises and increase the durability of walls with a rational level of heat-protective qualities.

The standard uses a two-level principle for regulating the heat-insulating qualities of external walls:

1 - according to sanitary and hygienic conditions that prevent the formation of condensation and mold on inner surface external walls, coatings, ceilings, as well as their waterlogging and frost destruction. Below this level, the heat-insulating qualities of walls are prohibited.

The main ideology of technical regulation is the safety system of manufactured products. The safety of citizens living or working in premises is characterized by ensuring the required sanitary and hygienic conditions under which there is no formation of condensation, mold and waterlogging of the walls, as well as an increase in relative humidity indoor air is higher than standard values. Sanitary and hygienic safety in premises is ensured during design by meeting regulatory requirements for heat-protective qualities, air and vapor permeability and other physical properties of fences, taking into account the climatic conditions of the construction area.

2 - from the conditions of energy saving and durability. Second level installed in order to save energy costs for heating buildings and reduce costs for major repairs of walls.

For the first time after 11 years of oblivion, the section “Durability of external walls of buildings” was introduced. In this section, the data presented allows a differentiated approach to the choice building materials to ensure the required level of thermal insulation of external walls, taking into account the number of major repairs within the predicted durability.

The durability of external walls is ensured by the use of materials that have adequate strength, frost resistance, moisture resistance, heat-shielding properties, as well as appropriate design solutions that provide special protection for structural elements made from insufficiently resistant materials. When developing external wall structures for a specific building design solution, it is necessary to be guided by the predicted durability and pre-repair service life. For example, predicted durability of external walls of buildings (monolithic and prefabricated monolithic up to 30 floors high) with monolithic, reinforced concrete inter-window partitions in the external walls and hollow large-format stones made of porous ceramics (in< 1000 кг/м3) полистиролбетонными, ячеистобетонными автоклавными блоками, огнестойкими пенополиуретановыми плитами повышенной плотности с наполнителями, минераловатными плитами из базальтового волокна повышенной жесткости, облицованных керамическим кирпичом или крупноразмерными плитами из природного и artificial stone is 150 years.

Projected durability panel buildings up to 30 floors high with external walls made of reinforced concrete load-bearing, self-supporting and hinged three-layer panels with insulation from floor and styrene concrete, autoclaved cellular concrete, polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam, mineral wool slabs made of basalt fiber of increased rigidity is 125 years.

The same is the predicted durability of brick buildings with external walls that are self-supporting or load-bearing from solid masonry with a facing brick layer of 1.5 - 2.0 bricks, insulated on the inside by spraying certain brand polyurethane foam with a layer thickness of 30 - 35 mm.

Predicted durability of load-bearing and self-supporting external walls made of solid masonry made of hollow ceramic and sand-lime brick, insulated from the inside by spraying a certain brand of polyurethane foam with a layer thickness of 30 - 35 mm for ceilings made of reinforced concrete panels is also 125 years.

The standard introduces for the first time a section on the duration of effective operation various designs external walls of buildings up to the first overhaul. So the duration of operation until the first major overhaul brick walls 1.5-2.0 bricks thick with a frost resistance of at least F35, a facing layer of ceramic bricks with a frost resistance of at least F35, insulated with sprayed polyurethane foam in several layers with a thickness of no more than 30 - 35 mm is 65 years. With monolithic reinforced concrete, brick (F35) walls, insulated with polyurethane foam boards or spraying, lined with ceramic bricks with frost resistance of at least F35, the service life until the first major repair will be 50 years.

The standard allows for the same building height to accept external wall structures with different pre-repair periods. When choosing the design of external walls, the standard requires differentially combining the projected durability and pre-repair periods included in the project with the required level of thermal insulation, reducing material consumption and the load on the foundation.

The standard reduced resistance to heat transfer R 0 pr norms is established from the conditions of saving energy costs for heating buildings as a result of increasing the level of thermal insulation qualities of external walls minus the costs of additional thermal insulation and major repairs within the predicted durability. The standard requires that the first major repair of external walls, from the conditions of inadmissibility of violating the sanitary and hygienic safety of citizens’ residence and energy saving, should be carried out with a decrease in RonpHOpM by no more than 35% in relation to what is economically feasible at the moment or by no more than 15% in relation to the required resistance to heat transfer under sanitary and hygienic conditions. Before the deadline for the first major repair, a decrease in the level of heat-protective qualities of external walls must be established according to the GOST 26254 method and thermal conductivity tests of selected insulation samples in accordance with GOST 7076. In this case, the uniformity of the temperature fields of the walls along the facade must be recorded with a thermal imager in accordance with GOST 26629.

One of the sections of the standard is devoted to the air permeation resistance of enclosing structures, which is not sufficiently reflected in the regulatory and technical literature. The standard values ​​of air permeability of external walls, ceilings and coatings of residential, public, administrative and domestic buildings and premises, as well as industrial buildings and premises are given.

For many years, the motto of the Soviet construction industry was total economy. So wrong economic policy made it possible to minimize capital costs for construction, which made it possible to quickly and easily build buildings for residential, public and industrial purposes. Acceptable temperature and humidity conditions for human living or work were achieved at the expense of high operating costs for heating, the price of which was regulated by the planned economy. Times have changed, the planned economy of the USSR has become history, but the thin walls remain. Prices for all types of energy resources are rising steadily, and centralized system heating has ceased to justify itself. Wall insulation is one of the main solutions to ensure comfortable conditions residence, minimizing the cost of additional heating.

Insulation of external walls from the outside

External walls should be properly insulated from the outside by adding to the wall a layer of effective foam insulation or a similar material characterized by high thermal resistance, sufficient strength and low water absorption.

Why you should insulate the outside is clearly demonstrated by the following pictures:

Fig. 1 - “classic” thin wall; L1 - thickness of the main wall, 1 - material: lightweight concrete with porous fillers; 3 - outer and 5-inner decorative layers, they are usually neglected in thermal calculations; 6 - graph of the temperature inside the wall, where T(In) and T(Har) are the internal and external air temperatures. 7 - graph of the “dew point” temperature. Analyzing the diagram, one can note the closeness of graphs 6 and 7; there is very little left to create conditions for the occurrence of condensation.

Fig. 2 - the same wall, but the situation has changed: the outside temperature has dropped, the heating power is not enough. Temperature graphs 6 and 7 - “dew points” intersected, a condensation zone - L(k) - formed, the wall inside became wet, condensation can penetrate deeper, worsening the characteristics of the wall. Prolonged exposure to moisture on the material outer wall leads to the development of fungus and efflorescence. Interior putty can peel and crack just like paint.

Now the outer wall has been insulated by placing a layer of effective insulation on the outside.

Fig.3 Legend:

1. External wall.
2. Effective insulation, for example, polystyrene foam.
3. The outer decorative layer is made of a special putty, which is reinforced with fiberglass mesh and painted with paint for facade work. It will reliably protect polystyrene foam from weather influences and increase the fire resistance of the structure.
4. The adhesive solution provides mechanical fastening of the insulation layer and its tight fit to the wall; if the area of ​​the insulated surface is more than 8 m², special dowels are additionally used.
5. Inner decorative layer.
6. Temperature chart.
7. Dew point chart.

The temperature graph - 6 and the “dew point” graph -7 are far from each other, which means that the occurrence of a condensation zone does not threaten such a layered structure.

If the heating is central, the room will become warmer; if it is individual, you can save a little by tightening the boiler thermostat.

Materials and technology for insulating external walls.

Most often, polystyrene foam is used for insulation, or more precisely, polystyrene foam made by extrusion. This material is characterized by very low thermal conductivity, sufficient strength with low weight, and practically does not absorb moisture, since it has closed pores. The chemical industry produces a sufficient range of similar polystyrene foam in the form of slabs of varying thickness (from 2 to 10 cm), density and strength.

Polystyrene foam boards from Technonikol, Carbon series. The edge of the sheet is made with a special “L-shaped” groove, which eliminates the formation of “cold bridges” at the seams.

Plates made of rigid polystyrene foam from URSA, which have a special groove, allow you to insulate walls, floors, attic floors and basements in one layer.

Conventional foam plastic boards are not recommended for wall insulation, but due to their low cost (3-5 times cheaper than extruded polystyrene foam) they are still used very often, which in turn negatively affects the quality and durability of the insulation.

General scheme for insulating external walls with polystyrene foam:

The outer wall can be brick, panel made of foam or expanded clay concrete.

Technology of work when insulating walls with polystyrene foam:

1. The surface of the walls is cleaned of dirt and flaking fragments of paint or plaster.
2. Recesses and irregularities are filled with façade plaster mortars.
3. The prepared surface is primed, depending on the condition, with strengthening and adhesion-increasing primers.
4. The slabs are installed on the prepared surface using an adhesive composition. The adhesive composition can be applied both to the slab and to the wall.

Adhesive compositions from Caparol.

Dry mixtures from Ceresit, for gluing polystyrene foam ST83, for gluing and reinforcing ST85.

Schemes for applying the adhesive solution: 1 - continuous, 2 - stripes, 3 - beacons. The adhesive solution is applied so that there is 1-2 cm left to the edge of the slab, and the composition does not get into the seams.

Glue the plates, similarly to brickwork with dressing:

1. Mechanically, polystyrene foam boards are fastened using plastic dowels with a wide plate head, at least four pieces per board, the installation of which should be carried out a day after gluing to the mortar. These dowels are suitable for fastening all types and brands polystyrene foam boards regardless of the manufacturer.

Dowel sets with a metal rod are characterized by high strength, and with a plastic (reinforced polycarbonate) rod they have thermal performance characteristics that eliminate the appearance of a “cold bridge.”

When installing an insulating layer made of ordinary polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam boards that do not have a groove, dowels are often installed in seams or at joints, but this may not be entirely true.

Large companies, manufacturers of construction chemicals and mixtures, for example, the German “Ceresit”, have developed their own wall insulation technologies. They produce a number of construction chemicals and mixtures created in order to fully satisfy the need for materials at all stages of insulation.

It should be noted that insulation with extruded polystyrene foam reduces the overall vapor permeability - the walls “do not breathe” and this means that measures and engineering solutions are necessary to ensure sufficient ventilation of the premises.

Insulation of external walls from the inside.

Let's consider the case of insulating an external wall when the insulation is located on the inside.

Fig.4 Symbols are similar to Fig.3. The graphs of temperature-6 and “dew point”-7 intersected, forming an extensive zone of condensation - L(k), both in the wall itself and in the insulation.

Despite the fact that theory and practice have proven the fallacy of insulating external walls from the inside, such attempts continue. Why is insulation from the inside so attractive:

• Work can be carried out at any time of the year, even in winter or in the rain.
• Simplicity of work: no ladders, scaffolding, cars with lifts or climber’s equipment are needed, which means there is no need to hire specialists.

It is rational to insulate the first and second floors using inventory scaffolding.

For builders who have mastered climbing equipment, the floor does not matter.

A false wall made of plasterboard with mineral wool insulation is cheaper than external insulation both in terms of material and cost of work.

Negative aspects of insulating external walls from the inside:

• Condensation may appear on the wall and, as a result, fungus, efflorescence and rust stains.
• The condensation zone moves into the volume of the insulation, and mineral wool in such humid conditions loses its properties and may collapse.
• The construction of an impenetrable vapor barrier will greatly impede the “breathing” of the walls, which is not permissible in the absence of ventilation (systems ventilation ducts and vents).
• Insulation inside reduces the usable area of ​​the premises.

In theory, it is possible to insulate external walls from the inside. As insulation, you should use extruded foam or regular foam with a density of at least 50 kg per cubic meter, which is not only durable, but also moisture-proof, since it has closed pores. It should be glued to the wall special glue for cement-based polystyrene foam. The cement stone of such glue, like extruded polystyrene foam, is not affected by moisture. The foam layer-2 (see Fig. 4) will act as a vapor barrier. Thus, there will be no problem with condensation. Moreover, in winter, thanks to heating, air humidity is less than normal (to ensure normal humidity, household and HVAC stores sell special humidifiers and dehumidifiers that reduce humidity). In practice, it will be very difficult to perform a sufficiently high-quality installation of foam sheets with the same ideal joints. In addition, polystyrene foam - flammable material, therefore, in the event of a fire, it will release toxic combustion products, which can cause death.

It should be added that due to the widespread use plastic windows And entrance doors With rubber seals, ventilation must be made a rule, otherwise it will be very difficult to achieve normal room humidity.

Options with vapor barrier between insulation and plasterboard sheet with decorative finishing, as well as with ventilation of the internal mineral wool insulation using air layers and ventilation holes, quite expensive. When insulating an outer wall from the inside, it is logical to insulate part of the floor and ceiling adjacent to it, installing a vapor barrier in these areas. Craftsmen can add insulation and foam molds to such a “layer cake”, where a 1-3 cm layer of foamed polymer material is reinforced aluminum foil. If such calculations turn out to be erroneous, then black mold and traces of efflorescence and red spots will appear on the walls (see Figures 5 and 6).

Insulating walls from the inside is considered incorrect, but it cannot be completely ruled out. Regardless of the opinion and evidence of the majority, each apartment owner makes his own decision.

The only case when installing insulation from the inside is completely justified is when insulating basements, because the outside is soil.

Insulation of external walls will reduce operating costs when individual heating or with a central one to make the rooms warmer. Insulation should only be done from the outside, and it is recommended to use extruded or high-density polystyrene foam as insulation. Rigid mineral wool slabs are used in ventilated facade systems, which are rarely used when insulating residential buildings, and this is more suitable for public buildings.

September 3, 2016
Specialization: professional in the field of construction and renovation ( full cycle carrying out finishing works, both internal and external, from sewerage to electrical and finishing works), installation of window structures. Hobbies: see the column "SPECIALIZATION AND SKILLS"

It is no secret that external insulation of the walls of a house or apartment is more effective than internal thermal insulation. By installing materials with low thermal conductivity outside, we not only reduce the heat loss of the building, but also normalize the humidity conditions, ensuring natural ventilation premises and preventing the formation of condensation inside the house.

There are many technologies for insulating finishing, some of them are quite simple and can be implemented with your own hands. In any case, I was able to cope with such work on my own, without the involvement of third-party specialists. I will describe successful examples of insulation implementation in the article below.

Two insulation options

Reducing the thermal conductivity of the wall enclosure is one of the ways to reduce the heat loss of the building as a whole. Moreover, we are not only talking about improving the microclimate by increasing the temperature in a house or apartment.

From my own experience, I know that even a thin layer of insulation on the walls can significantly save on heating the room. In private houses, this saving will be more noticeable due to the reduction in coolant consumption, but also in an apartment with central heating we will feel the financial effect - at least due to the fact that in the cold season we will not have to spend money on additional heating, or on air conditioning in the summer heat.

Today, experts practice different types thermal insulation works, the main difference between which is:

• in the method of installation of heat-insulating material;
• in the insulation that is used.

And if there are quite a lot of materials on the market, I have insulated external walls with polystyrene foam, expanded polystyrene, mineral wool, ecowool, etc. – then there are only two installation methods that are fundamentally different from each other. Conventionally, they are called wet and dry - according to the finishing method:

Methodology	Peculiarities
Wet	Thermal insulation panels made of synthetic material or mineral fiber are glued to the prepared base and additionally fixed using mechanical fasteners. After this, the surface is plastered, puttied and treated with decorative compounds.
Dry	Mounted on load-bearing surfaces from wooden beam or steel profile. It is placed in the cells of the frame thermal insulation material. Most often, mineral wool is used for this, but sometimes, in order to save money, foam plastic with a density of about 20-25 kg/m3 is used. A cladding is installed on top of the thermal insulation layer - siding, lining, block house, etc. Sometimes a false wall made of decorative bricks is erected as cladding.

By and large, it is the finishing that determines which method we will use:

• if we want to plaster and paint the walls of the house, then we use wet technology - foam or polystyrene;
• and if we want to cover it with siding or imitation timber, then we install insulation with a frame, making sure to leave a gap inside for ventilation.

Both methods have a right to exist, and therefore below I will describe in detail my own experience of their implementation, adding some useful tips from master finishers.

Wet technology

How to insulate?

“Wet” insulation involves sticking thermal insulation boards onto a pre-treated wall and then plastering them. For this process you can use the most different materials, and I will describe the most commonly used ones below:

1. Polystyrene foam is the cheapest, but at the same time the most popular variety. Most often it is used for thermal insulation of outbuildings, as well as for insulation of the facade high-rise buildings. The whole point is that mechanical properties materials do not provide the thermal insulation layer with a sufficient margin of safety, therefore the facade of a private house will be regularly damaged during operation.

For work, we take exclusively architectural foam, with a density of about 25 kg/m 3. Construction varieties PSB-S 15 or PSB-S 10 do not have delivery strength, and packaging marks not only crumble under more or less intense influences, but are also characterized by increased flammability. In general, this is the case when savings are clearly impractical.

1. Foamed or extruded polystyrene is a more expensive alternative foam panels. It is more dense, but at the same time it conducts heat less well and does not burn as intensely (or rather, it almost does not burn on its own, but melts when exposed to high temperatures). The price is higher than that of polystyrene foam, but the increase in price is compensated by an increase in the service life of the insulated facade.

1. Expanded polystyrene derivatives - Technoplex, Penoplex, Sanpol and analogues - have approximately the same list of advantages and disadvantages. Most of them are characterized by low thermal conductivity, therefore, for example, insulation brick house Penoplex thickness up to 100 mm allows you to reduce overall heat loss by about 15 - 20%.

1. Mineral wool is another material that is used for “wet” thermal insulation. Unlike polymer boards, it does not burn or melt when high temperatures, provides natural ventilation and does not reduce the vapor permeability of the walls, retains heat well.

Many people are interested in what is the optimal density of mineral wool for plaster, and on this score I completely agree with heating specialists: the minimum limit is approximately 50-65 kg/m3, and to guarantee it is better to take products from 80 kg/m3. So best choice– these are ISOVER Plaster facade slabs, ISOVER OL-Pe, etc.

Ultimately, the choice of material is determined by our financial capabilities. Yes, mineral wool is more reliable, more durable and more efficient, but if the choice is between no insulation at all and thermal insulation using foam plastic, then, it seems to me, it’s still worth gaining at least some savings.

Preparing the walls

In order for the outer wall insulation to hold firmly to the base and effectively protect the building from heat loss, the walls themselves must be carefully prepared for work. I usually follow this algorithm:

1. The wall is cleared of old decoration, since attempts to glue heat-insulating material onto old plaster end in the same way - the insulation falls off along with fragments of the base and the decorative layer.

1. All cracks and cracks identified under the plaster are sealed with a repair compound. Deep cracks are cleaned and expanded before this, which helps prevent their further expansion.
2. The wall is treated with several layers of penetrating primer with antiseptic components - this not only improves adhesion to the thermal insulation material, but also protects against the development of fungal colonies in a warm and humid environment.
3. When preparing for insulation in panel houses Special attention attention is paid to sealing the seams: they are cleaned, unstitched and filled with special mastics that tightly seal all voids. From the quality of the seal interpanel seams The effectiveness of thermal insulation work largely depends.

All work - preparation, insulation, and finishing - can be carried out independently no higher than the second floor. For high-altitude work, it is necessary to invite specialists who have the appropriate permit and have professional safety equipment at their disposal.

Gluing and fixing the heat insulator

After preparing the base, you can glue the insulation for the external walls. I proceed like this:

1. At the bottom of the wall I attach a base profile, the width of which corresponds to the thickness of the heat-insulating material. I level the profile strictly horizontally, fixing it with anchors recessed into the wall by at least 40-50 mm.
2. I prepare an adhesive composition based on the dry mixture Ceresit CT-85 or its equivalent. Powder with high content cement and plasticizers are poured into cool water (the manufacturer’s instructions will tell you the proportions) and mixed at least twice using a mixer attachment installed in the chuck of an electric drill.

1. I lay the panel of insulating material face down on the ground. On wrong side Using a knife or a needle roller, I apply relief notches, which will ensure increased adhesion to the adhesive composition.
2. I apply adhesive mixture to the insulation - a strip along the perimeter and several slides in the center of the panel.

1. I attach the panel to the wall, placing the bottom edge into the base profile. I level the insulation and press it to the base for 30 - 45 seconds for primary polymerization.
2. I paste over the selected section of the wall using the same pattern, arranging the panels in a checkerboard pattern so that the joints between them do not coincide.
3. I drill holes with a diameter of 10 mm through the panels. The penetration into the wall fence should be at least 50-60 mm. For reliable fixation, you need holes in the corners of the panels, as well as one or two in the center.

The length of the drill used depends on the thickness of the insulating panels used for the cladding. In any case, it is useful to have at least two or three concrete drills with a length of 20 cm in your tool kit - they definitely won’t be superfluous!

1. I hammer plastic dowels with a dish-shaped neck into the drilled holes. The wide part of the dowel should be recessed into the insulation by approximately 2-3 mm.
2. After installing the dowels, I fix them with special nails (express installation) or locking screws with a conical point.

1. I fill the gaps between the panels with scraps of insulation, fixing them with adhesive. I fill out small voids with self-expanding foam.
2. I putty the seams and caps of the anchors using the same mixture for sealing as for gluing.

Finishing

All insulation for the external walls of the house, used for “wet” finishing, must be protected from external influences. Most often, the technology of plastering followed by painting is used for this.

The technology of plastering for insulation has its own characteristics: we have to work with not the most a solid foundation, therefore, it is impossible to do without reinforcement to increase adhesion and improve mechanical characteristics:

1. I cover the corners of the structure and all the joints of the planes with perforated corners made of aluminum or plastic. If there is no corner, you can use a strip of reinforcing mesh.

1. Then, using a plaster mortar for facade finishing, I glue an alkali-resistant polymer mesh for exterior use onto all surfaces. For gluing, I use a spatula, with which I press the mesh into a thin layer of mortar applied to polystyrene foam, polystyrene or mineral wool.

To avoid delamination, I lay the mesh rolls overlapping with an overlap of approximately 40-50 mm.

1. After partial polymerization of the composition with which the mesh was glued, I grout the surface. I grout using a plaster float without an abrasive element.
2. Then I apply a second, leveling layer of façade plaster. After drying, I also rub it down, but this time using a plaster mesh or sandpaper. During grouting, I smooth out all the unevenness as much as possible, achieving a perfectly smooth surface.

1. Before finishing I prime the façade. Under decorative plaster or light facing material Ceresit CT-16 primer is used, Ceresit CT-17 is used for painting.

After polymerization of the primer, I perform finishing– I paint the façade with pigments for exterior work (I use a roller or spray gun), and veneer it decorative panels, fixing them with glue, or applying a layer of pre-tinted decorative plaster, forming an attractive relief on its surface.

Dry technology

Preparing the base

Other methods can be used for external thermal insulation of walls, and one of the most popular is the arrangement of a so-called ventilated facade. This technology involves the installation of heat-insulating material under the cladding fixed to special frame, therefore, here too it is necessary to pay great attention to preparing the walls for finishing.

By and large, the contact between brick walls and insulation is almost the same as in the case of a “wet” finish. And here wooden house– from a log or timber – it is prepared a little differently:

1. To begin with, the wood is cleaned, which consists of removing all weakly adhering elements - wood chips, bark residues, etc. For a newly built house, this operation is not necessary, but it is better to clean out the old rear ones.

1. The next stage is sealing the joints. We take a special spatula and a hammer in our hands and caulk all the cracks - both the gaps between the crowns and the cracks in the logs themselves or beams formed due to uneven drying. For caulking we use jute, linen tow or special cords made from a mixture of natural and synthetic fibers.
2. After sealing the cracks, we treat the wood with an antiseptic. Under the layer of thermal insulation, we create an area with high temperature and humidity, so it is very important for us to protect the wood from the effects of microorganisms, fungi and insects.

Frame installation

Next, we move on to installing the sheathing on which the facing material will be held. It can be made either from a wooden beam impregnated with an antiseptic (it will be cheaper) or from a galvanized steel profile (it is more expensive, but it lasts longer and is less susceptible to deformation).

We work like this:

1. We install brackets on the wall from the outside of the building, securing them with anchors.
2. To reduce heat loss at the point of contact between the wall and the metal, we place either a layer of roofing material or a paronite gasket under the base of each bracket.

1. We select the length of the bracket so that it is 10-20 mm greater than the thickness of the heat-insulating panels used. This reserve is necessary to organize the internal ventilation gap.
2. We install the beams or sheathing profiles themselves on the brackets. Their location depends on how the finishing panels will be attached: for horizontal finishing we need a vertical frame and vice versa.

Usage metal profile allows you to decorate a wall with thermal insulation panels without cracks or gaps. In this case, the frame is attached to the brackets after the heat insulator is installed.

1. When installing the sheathing, we control the position of its elements using a level and plumb line. It is extremely important that a flat plane is formed - this is what determines how neat the façade cladding will look.

After completing this stage, you can proceed to the actual insulation.

Insulation and cladding

Thermal insulation of the outer wall of a house using sheathing is carried out as follows:

1. We cut through panels of thermal insulating material based on mineral fiber, forming holes in the places where the brackets pass.
2. We put the insulation on the brackets and press it tightly against the wall.

For additional fixation strength, you can use adhesive compositions, as well as umbrella dowels with metal locking screws.

1. An alternative to this method could be laying mineral wool panels in the cells of the sheathing, where the thermal insulation material will be held in place due to its own elasticity. In order for us to succeed, we need to think in advance about the placement of the frame parts, making the width of the cell equal to the width of the insulating panel.

1. Another method of insulation is spraying so-called ecowool. This material is a loose substance based on cellulose fiber impregnated with glue. Ecowool is sprayed inside the frame using special pumps and forms a continuous layer with low thermal conductivity.

1. We install a windproof membrane on top of the insulation, which will prevent the wall from blowing through and reduce the risk of the thermal insulation getting wet if the cladding loses its tightness. For wind protection, it is worth using special membranes with high vapor permeability: if we take ordinary polyethylene, then condensation will inevitably collect under it, moistening the insulation and reducing its effectiveness.
2. After this, we install the frame guides (if this has not been done previously) and attach the façade trim to them.

To cover a ventilated façade over a heat-insulating layer, you can use:

• siding (PVC or metal);
• block house;
• false beam;
• durable lining;
• planken (wooden panels that have undergone heat treatment);
• products made from wood-polymer composite;
• corrugated sheeting (suitable for outbuildings and production facilities);
• ceramic and porcelain tile panels, etc.

When choosing finishing material We focus on our financial capabilities, the complexity of installation, and also the overall stylistic solution of the building. It is important that the facade looks attractive and lasts long enough, since we provide it with a basic level of energy efficiency thanks to the insulation hidden under the finish!

Materials and tools - background information

Thermal insulation of walls is a rather labor-intensive process, so it is worth undertaking it only if you have the appropriate technical equipment. And first of all, we should think about how we will work on the upper tier, because even in the case of one-story house the height turns out to be decent, and it will not be possible to stick insulation from the ground or plaster it.

So first you need to either purchase or (preferably) rent suitable scaffolding or at least trestles with a variable platform height.

In addition, we will need:

• a hammer drill with a set of concrete drills and a chisel attachment;
• drill;
• screwdriver;
• foam knife;
• a set of spatulas for glue and plaster;
• brushes for priming and painting;
• measuring tool;
• wood saw or metal scissors for installing sheathing;
• graters with abrasive elements for grinding the surface.

Naturally, each master will add something of his own to this basic set, but the minimum must be at our disposal!

We should also talk about the costs of insulation. When carrying out centralized facade thermal insulation work, their cost is calculated according to elemental estimate standards (the collection GESN 2001-26 is used Thermal insulation work"). But for private construction, the proposed method is unlikely to be suitable, because independent work You need to start first of all from the cost of materials.

In the table below I will provide an indicative list of prices that you can use when drawing up a budget for thermal insulation work:

Material	Unit	Average cost, rubles
Mineral wool ISOVER plaster Facade, 1200x600x100 mm	pack 4 pcs.	1400 -1700
Facade foam plastic PSB-S 25, 1000x1000x50 mm	sheet	170 – 220
Expanded polystyrene sheet, 1250x600x50 mm	sheet	180 – 220
Alkali-resistant facade mesh 160 g/m2, 1m	roll 50 m	1200 – 1600
Facade plaster corner	m. linear	45 – 70
Disc-shaped dowel 100x10 mm	100 pieces.	250 – 350
Primer Ceresit CT 16	10 l.	780 — 900
Plaster Knauf Diamant	25 kg	350 — 420
Adhesive for polystyrene foam Ivsil Termofix-P	25 kg	350 — 400
Windproof membrane for walls ROCKWOOL	70 m2	1500 — 1700
Sliding bracket for ventilated facade	PC.	25 -35
Profile for sheathing, panel 3 m	PC.	200 – 350
Vinyl siding, 3500x205 mm	PC.	120 – 450
Facade porcelain tiles, panel 60x60 cm	PC.	500 – 1200
Block house made of larch, 22x90 mm	1 m2	650 — 1200

Conclusion

Effective insulation of the external walls of a brick house, just like the thermal insulation of buildings made of wood or wood, provides us with normalization of the microclimate and significant savings in energy resources.

So if you don’t want to overpay for heating (and in the summer, also for air conditioning!), then you should think about how to arrange a thermal insulation circuit yourself. This will help you enough detailed video in this article, as well as advice from practitioners (including mine), which you can get by asking a question in the comments.