How to properly insulate the walls of the attic. Methods and features of attic insulation. Video: foam insulation

In conditions harsh winter want very much home warmth and comfort. This has become a real problem for those who live in country houses in winter. The uninsulated roof of the house creates large heat losses, and heating is now expensive. A reasonable question arises, which everyone decides in their own way - how and how to insulate the attic for winter residence.

The attic space was first proposed to be used as a residential space by Francois Mansart, after whom it later got its name. Starting from 1630, the roofs were successfully used as living space, and the owners of the houses tried to improve it in every possible way.

And in our time, this question remains the same relevant. The cold season is long and heating season, respectively, too. Attic insulation is the best solution, as it will help to significantly reduce heating costs.

Selection of materials for work

To maintain heat and create a cozy atmosphere at any time of the year, the mansard roof should be insulated. You can do this both with your own hands and with the help of specialists.

Many specialists in the field of room insulation recommend insulating the attic, regardless of whether someone will live there in the winter or not. As a rule, the attic space is very voluminous, and a significant amount of heat escapes through it. This is a significant disadvantage, since you have to spend more money on heating. In addition, an uninsulated roof is a favorable place for the development of mold and fungus, because moisture and condensate will actively accumulate there. In the future, this will lead to irreversible consequences, and the roof will be hopelessly damaged, and the wood will rot.

The degree of insulation of the attic space depends on how severe the climate is in a certain region of residence. Accordingly, the colder the winter, the stronger the level of insulation should be. In the northern regions, it will be rational to use double insulation, and the thickness of the insulation should be more than 200 mm.

To date, there is a wide range of materials for the insulation of mansard roofs. However, from all this variety, it is necessary to choose the most suitable one, respectively, you need to know the features of each of them. After all, the material must have long term services. It is inappropriate to save on the insulation of the attic room, since it will not work to achieve the desired result using the cheapest heaters.

The most popular materials for roof insulation from the inside:

Seal selection

Let's figure out which sealant is suitable for insulation.

Material Quantity Calculation

The choice of material is only the first step. The next important step will be the calculation of the consumption of materials for further insulation work. To avoid the appearance of cold bridges, it is necessary to correctly calculate the thickness of the thermal insulation applicable to a particular structure. At the same time, it is necessary to take into account various factors and their influence on the future thickness of insulation. This can be expressed by the following formula:

Rreq=(1/A1) + (L/K) + (1/A2), where

L is the thickness of the heat-shielding material, m;

K - thermal conductivity of the heat-shielding material;

A 1 - heat transfer index for inner surface walls: 8.7 W/m*°C;

A 2 - heat transfer index for outer surface walls: 23 W/m*°C.

It is also necessary to know the thermal conductivity of the insulation, which can be seen in the certificate.

Using this formula, you can calculate the thickness of the insulation not only in the attic, but also in other rooms in the house. But before doing this, you need to choose the type of insulation for landscaping. mansard roof. To determine the appropriate thickness of the insulation used, you need to know that when insulating the roof and attic gable made of bricks, a heat-insulating layer of various widths is used.

To calculate the area that will be insulated, it is necessary from common space subtract the area of all windows. Then it will become known exactly how many materials are needed for insulation. If you insulate the attic on your own, you will need the following materials: polyurethane foam, vapor barrier film, dowel fungi and knowledge of the thermal conductivity of heaters.

Ways to insulate the attic

In order to figure out how to insulate a mansard roof for winter living, you need to know that there are several options for insulation: internal and external.

To insulate the roof from the outside is perfect option, insofar as such a design will not let heat through from the inside due to the warm contour and will be reliably protected from freezing. This prevents the formation of condensate, respectively, the risk of fungus and mold is minimized. However, if the attic roof is already covered with roofing material, then it will be extremely difficult to insulate it, and the roofing material will have to be removed.

Most often attic insulation for further residence it is produced with inside. To this end, a wooden frame is being erected in the attic, which will serve as a niche for laying insulation. Exist various technologies performing thermal insulation.

External insulation of the attic occurs during the construction of the building. Insulated gable roof. Internal thermal insulation produced with already covered roofing material (if there is a need to make this room comfortable for living at any time of the year).

A ventilation hole with a diameter of at least 2 centimeters should be drawn through the layers of insulation. It is necessary to remove steam and condensate from the vapor barrier membrane. These holes are made both in the upper and lower parts on the roof slope. Thus, the air goes from bottom to top along the hole, collecting along the way excess moisture from the vapor barrier film and leading it out through the top hole.

However, all work on the external insulation of the attic is carried out exclusively in the warm season in dry sunny weather. All surfaces are carefully examined for any flaws before being directly insulated. All areas must be dry. Wood must be impregnated with antiseptics. metal surfaces in order to prevent the occurrence of corrosion, they are treated with butyme mastic.

External insulation of the attic is as follows:

The crate of the boards is stuffed from the bottom of the rafters
Vapor barrier film covers the batten and rafters
Insulation is laid between the rafters
Heat-insulating material is covered on top with vapor barrier
The crate of the boards is stuffed over the insulation
The roofing material is fastened with self-tapping screws to the crate.

When choosing a material for thermal insulation, it is necessary to pay close attention to its characteristics. It should be relatively light and easy to install, without overloading the ceiling of the attic. It is also desirable to use environmentally friendly and fire-resistant material.

It is best to use basalt insulation, it is laid without the formation of cracks and voids. If insulation is used in the form of plates, then the gaps must be blown out with mounting foam. When covering the vapor barrier membrane, remember that that insulation sheets should go with an overlap of not less than 20-30 mm.

At internal insulation premises, the order of work is as follows:

The crate is stuffed onto the rafters or a specially prepared frame.
To prevent the penetration of wind, the building is covered with a protective film.
A layer of thermal insulation is laid between the rafters and the frame.
A vapor barrier membrane is placed on top of the insulation.
The crate for the ventilation hole is stuffed on top of this design.
The crate is sheathed on top drywall sheets or OSB boards.

When deciding to insulate the room with your own hands, you need to see how to insulate the attic for winter living. The video will help with this. It details all stages of the work.

Today, many people are in a hurry to leave the noisy metropolis and find themselves in the bosom of nature, which energizes and gives cheerfulness and new strength. A rare person does not dream of living outside the city and enjoying the freshness of the air every day. However, at the same time, he faces some difficulties, because the climatic conditions do not allow him to carelessly live alone with nature all year round.

Create favorable conditions for living in country house is not an easy task, and this article aims to help you overcome the difficulties. Create coziness in the house, and let a warm and comfortable atmosphere always reign in it!

Every year, the attic room is gaining more and more popularity. To increase living space, owners of private cottages build an additional floor by raising the roofing to a level slightly larger than human height. This option allows not only to increase the number of rooms in the cottage, but also significantly save on construction and decoration.

After the construction of the attic, an important question often arises - how to insulate the attic, if it is intended for permanent residence. The task is not easy, since such rooms lose heat faster and do not have a standard layout. But still there are certain recommendations on how to carry out the work - how, with what and in what order.

Preparing for insulation

The most important feature of most attic spaces is the sloping ceiling due to the peculiarity of the roof. But at the same time, in accordance with SNiP 2.08.01-89, the height of such a room must be at least 250 cm. In some areas (up to half of the attic area), a decrease in height is allowed.

Other features of the attic include:

the heat loss coefficient depends on the material from which the house is built - a log house, gas / foam concrete, brick, stone, etc.;
the presence of communications that "dictate" certain technical solutions for the arrangement and insulation;
various configurations and architectural forms of the room itself, depending on the shape of the roof - single or gable, broken, straight, etc .;
as insulation, you can use all the same materials as for the building itself;
can be original not only internal filling, but also the very location of the room - like a part of the house, taken out with an emphasis on the columns, as an intermediate link between the individual parts.

All these features dictate the choice of a heat insulator and a method of insulation.

It is recommended to insulate the attic, as well as a residential building, from the outside. Thus, the dew point will be shifted, condensate will not accumulate inside.

Where to start

In order for this room to retain heat as much as possible, you should choose the right insulator for insulation and decide on the cladding option. At the moment, the construction market provides a wide range of different heaters, the choice of which depends entirely on individual requirements.

Air circulation before and after thermal insulation

First of all, before deciding how and with what to insulate the attic, you need to study the types of heat insulators, advantages, disadvantages, calculate the budget possibilities and choose the lining based on the technical characteristics.

The choice of thermal insulation material

Among the most popular heaters are:

glass wool

Glass wool is budget option, the cost of which depends entirely on required amount material, thickness and density. On average, the price varies from 400 rubles for 3-4 sheets. However, fiberglass installation can cause some problems. During the installation process, styeklovat crumbles strongly, which contributes to the release a large number dust hazardous to breathing and vision.

During work, you should carefully protect yourself with a special suit, gloves, mask, glasses and shoes. The main advantages of glass wool are:

good thermal insulation characteristics;
no release of toxic substances;
high fire resistance.

Before deciding how to insulate the attic with mineral wool, it is very important to take care of the safety of work.

sawdust

sawdust - great option for people who want to create a room that meets all the requirements of environmental friendliness. sawdust can create good thermal insulation and soundproofing. Wood waste is mainly used for floor insulation.

The main disadvantages are:

susceptibility to fungal, clay lesions;
fast absorption of moisture;
short service life. Over time, the material settles and loses its properties.

Ecowool

Ecowool is durable and is also listed in the category of environmentally friendly materials. It has a high thermal conductivity - 0.043 W / mK, which is considered one of the best values \u200b\u200bof such heaters.

Thermal insulation absorbs sound well, is resistant to aggressive chemical influences, passes vapors, preventing the formation of fungus, mold or corrosion. After applying ecowool, the owner will no longer have a question about how to insulate the attic.

fibreboard

Fiberboard is most often used for insulation of attics in bath rooms. Plates have in a simple way installations, which “bribes” those who are trying to figure out how to insulate the attic with fiberboard.

The boards have good resistance to mechanical damage, are famous for their high rate of heat and sound insulation. A smooth and durable surface allows you to save a significant amount of money on leveling the floor, walls, ceiling.

Styrofoam

Most owners of private houses, faced with the task of insulating the attic from the outside, unanimously claim that foam plastic will do an excellent job of this.

The great popularity of this material is justified by the simplicity in the device, good properties heat and sound insulation, fire safety and water resistance. It is not suitable for internal insulation, since it does not pass steam well, as a result of which fungal formations may appear.

Styrofoam has two disadvantages - a low degree of environmental friendliness and the love of rodents. If the work on the insulation of the attic will be carried out from the inside, get ready for the fact that mice will settle in the foam.

polyurethane foam

Experts definitely recommend choosing this particular material. Outwardly, it is little different from polystyrene, but due to a special production technology, it is much more efficient. Before insulating the attic from the inside, you need to calculate the number of sheets.

Among the main advantages - ease of installation, it does not require styling. It is necessary to blow out the area between the rafters with foam, which ensures thorough thermal insulation of all gaps.

Polyurethane foam has resistance to moisture, increased fire safety, long service life, but prevents air circulation. In such conditions, condensation accumulates and foci of mold appear.

Mounting sequence

After the owner of a private house comes to a definite decision, the better to insulate the attic, you should study the strict sequence of installation of the material:

walls;
roof.

This method is the most correct and convenient to obtain the expected result.

VIDEO: Attic insulation technology

Floor insulation

If the floor has uneven surface, it is necessary to correctly choose the option, the better it is to insulate the attic from the inside, so that you do not have to buy equalizers. The technology consists of several steps: first, waterproofing is installed on the floor, then it is covered with granular material, carefully leveled with beacons, and fiberboard is installed on top.

To prepare for the classic method of installing wooden floors, experts recommend filling the armholes with mineral wool. If you plan to install a "warm floor" system, then before insulating the attic from the inside, you need to make a standard foam screed.

In addition to the above options, expanded clay, sawdust and waterproofing film can be used to insulate the floor.

Wall insulation

Walls attic room often faced with plasterboard. At the same time, basalt slabs or sheets of mineral wool are laid in the area between the base and the material.

Ceiling work

The process of insulating the ceiling zone is the most difficult, since the ceiling is equipped with a large number of beams, which complicate the installation of insulation material. All work must be done following the basic rules.

First of all, it is necessary to carry out the insulation of the roofing.
Next - the installation of a waterproofing layer of protective film, which does not allow the penetration of moisture on the insulation.
After you need to install the air gap.
Insulation gasket, the method of which depends entirely on the variety.
Installation of ventilation holes or gaps for improved air circulation and creating the most favorable microclimate in the room.
Installation of a membrane film responsible for the regular removal of excess steam.
In conclusion - finishing facing drywall or other similar finishes.

VIDEO: Do-it-yourself attic roof insulation

There are many people who strive to create a high-quality and comfortable attic. But to realize this task without reliable insulation is impossible. And that's why different options insulation materials, the features of their use should be given special attention.

Peculiarities

In the country house and in a country house, they always try to provide maximum comfort and convenience. Therefore, quite often rooms for winter living are equipped in attic floor, originally not intended for human life at all. And this creates a number of differences from the usual wooden house with a cold attic.

Unlike any other premises in a private frame house The attic is very hot in summer and cool in winter. Not a single room, even with a large glass area, has such a problem. The geometry of the walls duplicates the outer contours of the attic roof with all its slopes, and therefore you will have to refuse to use any bulk insulation. Yes and soft roll options, prone to rapid rolling, are also not suitable. It is very important to use the most effective insulating material so that its relatively thin and light layer does its job without excessive pressure on the rafters and walls.

In the case of an unheated room, there are additional nuances. The draft floor is attached to the lags from below, and you will have to agree with this circumstance - after all, the front surface of the floor will be fixed on top. Next comes the vapor barrier and, in fact, insulation material. Whether to lay waterproofing, even experts cannot finally come to a consensus. floor boards thinner than 4 cm simply do not make sense, even under the most slender and lightweight people they will sag.

Which heater to choose?

There is a huge variety of heaters on the market, and if not everyone is suitable for protecting the walls of the attic from the inside, then almost everyone can be put into the “pie” of the floor. But it is necessary to take into account the properties of a particular substance and the structures created from it, primarily the level of thermal protection.

The choice of insulation for the attic is very difficult, and at the slightest difficulty, it should be consulted with professionals. However, given the well-known properties, the pros and cons of each option, in most cases you can make a decision on your own.

For many decades now, foam has been widely used to insulate various structures. Under normal conditions, this component:

does not saturate the air with toxic substances;
excludes infection by microorganisms and their biological decomposition;
simultaneously performs the function of vapor barrier in the room;
has a very small mass;
differs in affordable cost and serves as much as insulated buildings.

But it is impossible not to mention the weaknesses of such thermal protection. So, low density turns into insufficient mechanical strength. If nitro paint gets on the surface of the foam, it collapses rather quickly. This material is not ventilated, which can create a number of problems in the attic. Mice or other rodents can also get in it; only a reliable outer layer helps to resist their invasion, but it burdens the structure and makes it thicker.

A considerable part of people use polyurethane foam (PPU), which is better than conventional foam in a number of ways. But the use of this insulation will be correct only if you refuse a series harmful myths. The experience of its use in this capacity has been going on for more than half a century, and during all this time the residents of houses with polyurethane insulation have no reason to be angry. Any person, unless he has an extremely large build, will calmly walk along the floor, insulated with PPU. The main thing is that the shoes are soft and do not have sharp studs and other protruding elements.

Do not confuse the polyurethane foam laid in the "pies" floor coverings, with mounting foam. Chemical composition they are close, but that's where the similarities end. During the polymerization of a rigid material, closed cells are formed in it, allowing you to achieve a phenomenally high level of thermal insulation. It will not work to provide the same with improvised materials or even with any other factory products. There are, however, factors due to which polyurethane foam has not yet displaced (and will never displace) other types of insulation:

it should not be placed where ultraviolet can act;
not allowed to use even the best varieties PPU in contact with strongly heated surfaces or near open flames;
the heat loss figures promised by the manufacturers refer to an ideal product of the highest density (and it is very difficult to create such a product);
over time, the effectiveness of thermal protection due to the replacement of the gas filler with air decreases;
the highest adhesion is guaranteed, but not for surfaces that are absolutely unprepared.

For the attic, other heaters are often used. If polyurethane foam is the result of progress, then insulation with sawdust has been practiced for many centuries. The obvious advantages of this method are its accessibility to people, the cheapness of the material and the ability to independently control the quality of the finished layer.

To improve the quality of the material, it is processed boric acid or solution blue vitriol, mixed with lime, gypsum and cement. Then no harmful animals will start inside, and the risk of fire will also be eliminated.

The natural origin of sawdust heaters allows us to consider them as safe as the "progenitor" - a tree. Preliminary exposure is required for 12 months and thorough drying of the material. If there is wiring in the insulated walls, floors or ceilings, it is placed in fireproof shells. The big problem is that even properly processed sawdust will crumble over time. Therefore, they are not very suitable for insulating walls and other vertical surfaces.

The use of mineral wool for a residential attic is attractive only because this method of thermal protection simultaneously reduces the penetration of extraneous sounds from outside. Such a heater does not burn, does not change its configuration when the temperature changes sharply. Mineral wool does not have a tendency to be destroyed by caustic substances; animals and bacteria do not eat it.

When the insulation comes into contact with metals, corrosion does not occur. It is relatively easy to process the material, but if condensation forms, then all of it will fall into the insulation layer.

Ecowool also competes with mineral (basalt) wool. It is produced from the waste of the pulp industry and secondary raw materials, so that according to environmental characteristics, this method of thermal protection is quite acceptable. Fresh ecowool retains heat well, but after a short time its quality deteriorates. This is caused by mechanical settling of the material, so it is advisable to lay it in excess. Extruded polystyrene foam is completely devoid of such a disadvantage.

In the vast majority of cases, it is combined with plasterboard sheathing. Outside, this material is protected by applying:

siding;
brick;
aluminum or steel profiles;
ceramic tiles laid in a joint.

Polystyrene should be used with caution - it can easily catch fire when in contact with open flames or at high temperatures. It is advisable to choose those options that are processed in production with special components that effectively suppress ignition. But when using penoplex, as the manufacturer promises, water absorption is excluded, maintenance is guaranteed comfortable conditions in room.

The strength and uniformity of the coating allow it not to crumble or collapse even under strong mechanical stress. Builders can forget about the use of protective masks and gloves (which is unthinkable when working with the same glass wool).

Returning again from the latest technological advances to traditional materials, one cannot fail to say about the insulation with expanded clay. In its composition, it is represented by oval-shaped granules obtained from burnt clay or expanded clay sand. Depending on the production technology, expanded clay with a density of 250-600 kg per 1 cubic meter can be obtained. m. It perfectly retains heat and, in addition, prevents microorganisms from developing and rodents from settling.

U-shaped stitched mats are made mainly on the basis of stone wool. They inherit its positive properties: zero fire hazard, resistance to harmful substances, excellent heat retention and high heat resistance. Thanks to its adaptation to the type of surface, this roll material is perfectly combined with shingles. Even glass wool is not able to hold the same amount of air per unit volume as stitched mats. Its reliability is evidenced by at least its constant use at nuclear power plants.

Continuing the review, it is impossible not to mention the different types foil insulation. Most often in practice, you can meet with foamed polyethylene - this self-adhesive coating will help protect chimneys, smoke and ventilation pipes in the attic. Mineral wool is sometimes combined with foil; it is also intended for insulating smoke channels and roofs.

If such a shell is used for polystyrene foam (necessarily double-sided), it can withstand heating up to 170 degrees. It is primarily designed to reduce heat loss in warm floors.

Another type of foil insulation is penofol. With it, it is easy to stop heat loss through the floor, walls and roof. Reflective insulation works effectively only when free space is reserved, and there must be at least five layers of air. But you should beware of using polynor. This material is essentially no different from polyurethane foam, although some manufacturers say that it matches the foil options in quality.

Its vapor barrier and waterproofing properties are equal to zero. It is much more practical to use fiberglass. It should be borne in mind that its panels should not move under their own weight or under the influence of other factors, therefore, thermal protection will have to be mounted very carefully.

If we return to foil materials, it is difficult to get past the foil isolone. It allows you to leave 95% of the heat inside, does not freeze itself in winter and does not tend to dry out in summer. If the installation is done correctly, the service life of the material is very long.

The selection of insulation for metal tiles has its own characteristics. To solve this problem, the following are widely used:

mineral wool;
Styrofoam;
glass wool.

It is advisable to work just at the time of the construction of the roof. After all, you need to fill and attach the material from the inside. An alternative to the three listed means is an insulating board, also known as soft fiberboard. This coating will provide reliable sound insulation (in addition to the main function). Air accounts for up to 4/5 of the total volume of thermal protection.

How to calculate?

Having chosen one or another material, it is required to calculate the thickness of the thermal insulation layer. The standards for such a calculation are defined in SNiP 23-02-2003. The lowest value of thermal resistance set for a specific area is reduced by the value of the thermal resistance of the material. You can calculate it by taking the coefficient from the table and the required thickness. When the walls are formed by several materials, what the thermal insulation should be is calculated by summing up their indicators.

Ways

Seamless insulation involves the use of sprayed materials. Most often, polyurethane foam is used in this technique. It is necessary to deal with the appearance of dampness. Spraying foam near open flames or heat sources can be life-threatening! These shortcomings are offset by resistance to chemicals, extreme cold and mechanical stress. Combined attic insulation can be carried out using both sprayed and plate and roll materials.

Additional double insulation is a type of combined insulation; it is used if it is necessary to strengthen protection against heat loss. Then the existing skin turns into a base, after which a ventilation gap is left, and then a membrane is placed that insulates the material. Then comes the turn of new options for vapor barrier and cladding. Alternatively, you can make a warm film floor under the skin.

It is important to check that the "pie" of the roof does not have cold bridges and other deviations from the norm.

How to insulate?

For external insulation of the attic (enhancing the thermal protection of its roof), it is allowed to use only dense materials of slab execution. Most masters recommend using penoplex in this case, since it performs very well in this capacity. By nailing a board equal in width to the insulation to the rafters, it can be avoided from sliding down. The layout of the plates should be done in a checkerboard pattern. Bars are used to create the crate, their thickness cannot be less than 4 cm.

Experienced repairmen have long developed the technology of attic insulation from the inside and strictly follow it. In order for the top of the thermal insulation to be covered from moisture, you need to bypass everything wooden beams and attach, using a stapler or vertically directed rails, a special film. It is laid in layers with an overlap, fastening is done with a special adhesive tape. Then a crate is created, which is made of slats 80-100 mm wide stuffed parallel to each other on the rafters.

When working, it is recommended to monitor whether the rafters sag under load and whether the surface is smooth. Deformations are detected during inspections building level, and if they are, you need to take a planer. When the crate is ready, you can insulate it with your own hands, turning basalt mats inside. The width of a single mat should correspond to the gap between the rafters, and the thickness should correspond to their width. If the mat is very thick, thermal insulation is placed in several layers.

Next comes the turn of the vapor barrier of the ceiling - it is provided by polyethylene films, glassine or roofing material. When attaching such materials to the rafters, glue is applied or the slats are stuffed in increments of 0.4-0.5 m.

Each seam of the film is recommended to be glued with construction tape. Where the climate is very cold, it will be correct to put a vapor barrier in the intervals of the insulation itself. When all these works are completed, the turn of installation comes. decorative panels becoming the front decoration of the walls.

Sometimes the crate is neglected. In such cases, it follows to the bars themselves or to the rafters stuffed from the inside steel profile screw:

plywood;
siding;
drywall;
other selected material.

In cases where the walls of the attic are at the same time parts of its roof, there is no particular need to insulate them. The difference between wall insulation and work on the ceiling is the need to always make a crate. The thermal protection scheme of the floor overlap forms a whole “pie”: at the bottom is a vapor barrier, above is a heater. In this case, there is no way to do without waterproofing; a heater is located above it, occupying the space between the beams. The fastening of chipboard or high-quality boards completes the work.

It is required to protect the attic from heat loss, even when it is used only in the warmer months. Since even the most reliable structures can fail, you need to take care of the selection of waterproof material. Then suddenly leaky fragments of the roof will cease to be a serious danger to the house and property in it. An equally significant circumstance is resistance to fire, especially for heaters in heated attics and near chimneys. According to experts, best solution on a warm attic room is glass wool.

Plasticity allows her to lie in the gaps between the rafters, without leaving the slightest free areas. Accordingly, trickles of cold air will not rush down, depriving the residents of the house of such well-deserved warmth. IN middle lane RF wool materials should be laid in a layer of at least 15 cm, and building regulations in cold climates require this value to be doubled. Any kind of "wool" according to the unofficial order developed among the developers should be mounted only together with a vapor barrier.

The first step in the work will be to stretch the waterproofing membrane, which is held on the rafters with battens. Rupture of stretched films and roofing materials is at least 30 mm, any wrinkles and folds are unacceptable on the membrane. Special mention should be made of the installation of pediment thermal insulation in an attic attic. It is desirable to produce it not inside, but outside. With internal insulation, the dew point will be shifted into the interior space, and the whole point of the work is lost - the wall will freeze deeper and stronger than before.

The preparation of the walls of the gables begins step by step with cleaning them from dust and dirt, then the base needs to be primed. A special primer will improve the adhesion of the adhesive to the surface. Experts recommend applying it in a couple of layers.

Not a single residential attic can do without a counter-lattice - if the builders begin to say that it can be abandoned, this immediately speaks negatively about their professionalism. Both in the gables and in the main part of the attic, it is necessary to insulate the windows, their places of junction with the walls.

Every homeowner should know the features of this work, because so many performers violate the sequence of actions and get a bad result.

In the slopes (upper and lower) there is very little space for laying thermal insulation material. It is advisable to order windows that go deep into the roof. Many experts consider the best solution stone wool and other heaters the highest level thermal protection. Regardless of the specific choice, waterproofing is required.

Another problematic place on the second floor is the corners. At oblique corners, the heat insulator is attached, giving it the necessary shape in advance. When the work is completed, the insulated surface is carefully checked in order to notice the appearance of cracks in a timely manner. If they are found, a strip of insulation, which is 10 mm wider than the identified defect, should be placed in a position on the problem area. Warming between the first floor and the attic with bulk materials means filling the free space between the beams or beams to the very top. A film is installed on top, attached to the structural elements.

Instructions for effective insulation attic allows you to mount everything necessary materials and designs to the owner of the house. You can work outside only in warm and cloudless weather, because the slightest moisture that has fallen on roofing elements and part of the "pie", can lead to backfire. If elected roll materials, it makes sense to wait for the summer and start repairs. Mounting them from below is very inconvenient and impractical, the number of errors inevitably grows.

Insulation of complex structures

The thermal insulation of a broken mansard roof has its own characteristics. 100% wood is required to be impregnated with special antiseptics and fire retardants. Each detail located from the side of the street should be processed only with compounds for outdoor work. But these mixtures are not suitable for impregnating wood indoors - if they are used, it will be possible to fight bad smell for many years. The space under the roof must be equipped with ventilation gaps so that moisture does not stagnate.

Waterproofing under broken roofs in many cases, they are laid without stretching to an even state, but on the contrary, allowing it to sag by 30-50 mm. The choice between such approaches is up to professionals who know when it will provide water flow and when not.

When working independently, you need to do everything in the usual way and do not try to invent original schemes. Care must be taken to ensure that all insulating materials correctly fit in several planes at once.

Common mistakes

Even qualified builders are not 100% safe from misses, and if a particular team has only positive reviews, you still need to carefully monitor its work. If, nevertheless, mistakes were made, characteristic signs of improper attic insulation will appear very soon, and the first enemy of any homeowner is condensate. It is unacceptable to interrupt the vapor barrier line on the entire outer surface of the attic, and each section of the interface of its fragments must be glued with masking tape. The biggest mistake when condensate appears is to seal all the cracks.

If you do this, it will stop dripping and begin to pour already full-fledged streams. It is useless to deal with the problem of a leaking roof and accumulating liquid, blocking the path of water.

You need to seek help from professionals and not just consult, but call them to inspect the attic, preferably with a thermal imager in hand. If a return pipe of the heating system is laid in an unheated attic, it is necessary to insulate and create waterproofing, vapor barrier in the same way as in a heated space.