Caring for roses in autumn, preparing for winter. Rose park Alexander McKenzie rose Alexander Mc Kenzie. Rose park Louise Odier Louise Odier Rose

park rose - amazing plant, which combines the resilience of wild species and aristocratic beauty. Its cultivation is within the power of amateurs, the rules for planting and subsequent care are simple. The plant is easy to propagate. And after reading our article and looking at the photo, you will definitely want to have at least one of the varieties of these roses in your collection.

Varieties and varieties of park roses

A group of roses, conventionally called park roses, includes decorative types wild roses and ancient roses: centifolous, (bred back in the 16th century) and moss (appeared more than 3 centuries ago).

Park roses in landscape design

The bushes of these roses are high - on average up to one and a half meters. They differ in early abundant flowering, lasting more than a month. Repeatedly, with rare exceptions, they no longer bloom. The typical color of the flowers is from white to deep purple, more rare - yellow, orange. The photo shows that no other roses have such doubleness as park roses, sometimes you can count up to 150 fragrant petals on one flower.

They are winter-hardy, tolerate cold without shelter. The labor of breeders obtained unique varieties, where to all existing positive qualities, new ones have been added, such as the ability to re-bloom. Most often in gardens there are domestic varieties:

Not so long ago, gardeners began to cultivate park roses, originally from England and Canada. The first are represented by varieties:

In the photo, popular Canadian varieties:

Variety John Davis

Planting park roses and caring for them

Park roses are planted both in the form of hedges, and singly, and in groups. It is better when the site is well lit, but penumbra is also acceptable, there will simply be fewer flowers. The ideal soil is moderately acidic. Compost, peat or humus is added to sand, and sand, the same peat, compost, humus is added to clay. Garden roses are planted from May to September.

Pits are dug under the seedlings so that the roots can be freely straightened, and the neck can be deepened by 8 centimeters. Plants are planted from each other at a distance of 1 to 1.5 m.

Attention! Shrubs do not thrive in drafts, so choose a sheltered area.

The roots and shoots of park roses are formed over 3 years. During this period, the soil should be loosened, watered, fertilized, pruned. In spring and summer, the need for water increases, because. plants spend a lot of energy on development and flowering. In early September, watering is stopped.

Young park rose bush

Very important point is circumcision. It is carried out 2 years after planting in April, and before that only damaged branches are removed. Shoots of some species should be shortened by half, leaving about 6 buds. By pruning, you can rejuvenate the bush. To do this, the shoots are cut off near the ground, then the young stems will begin to grow actively.

Advice. Since park roses have very sharp thorns, use a canvas apron and thick gloves when handling them.

Fertilizer and top dressing for better development

In spring, roses need magnesium, iron, boron. They contain specially selected dressings for roses. Fertilize the plants at this time with manure. Further, park roses begin to be fed at the end of August to strengthen the roots. Fertilizers are applied under the bushes with high content potassium, phosphorus and calcium. The second feeding is in September. A bucket of water is poured under the bushes with potassium monophosphate (16 g) and superphosphate (15 g) dissolved in it. The last top dressing is done in October, while organic matter is introduced in the form of rotted compost.

Roses need to be fed with special fertilizers

How do garden roses reproduce?

Practicing reproduction:

layering when the stems in the spring bend to the ground itself and, having secured, sprinkle with earth. The next year they are separated and assigned to a permanent place.
undergrowth, for which the offspring at the age of 1 year in the spring are separated from the main bush, and then, shortening the stems by a third, transplanted.
division overgrown bushes in early spring or autumn. Do this using a secateurs. Each division must have roots and at least 1 stem. The separated part is planted in compliance with the usual landing rules.
woody or green cuttings. The first are harvested in the fall, buried in the sand, and planted in the spring. The second - at the beginning of flowering.

cuttings of a park rose

What causes park roses. Pests

Park roses are characterized by diseases such as sphere library or powdery mildew. For plants, it is very dangerous, because. often leads to death. It is expressed in the appearance of a gray coating on the leaves from below. In order to prevent its appearance, the bushes are sprayed with ferrous sulfate before the start of the growing season, and in the summer with a solution consisting of 0.5 buckets of water, 0.3 kg of sulfur, quicklime (1 kg), kitchen salt (0.2 kg).

powdery mildew

Garden beetle and raspberry weevil are the main enemies of park roses. They lay larvae in buds, and they eat them. The beetles themselves eat everything from buds to leaves and flowers. Therefore, beetles should be collected at the first appearance and destroyed.

By choosing a well-lit place in your garden with breathable soil, and providing the right care, you can grow beautiful park roses.

Planting a park rose: video

Park rose: photo

Each rose, but especially the park one, can perfectly decorate any garden. Due to their unpretentiousness, frost resistance and long flowering, these rose bushes can be used in any conditions. They are also easy to decode arched openings, gazebos, facades. The rose will look good in the background of the flower bed.

It is customary to refer decorative dog roses to varieties of park roses. They begin to bloom extremely actively and earlier than other species, while emitting a light sweetish smell.

In Russia, it is customary to use the following pink varieties:

The rose is wrinkled. A large plant, reaching a height of two meters. It got its name from the wrinkled foliage. The flowers, 10 cm in size, have a strong smell. The flowering of the rose continues for a long time, with the greatest activity occurring at the beginning of summer.

The rose is white. It has sprawling bushes that grow no less than two meters in height. Fragrant six-centimeter flowers begin to bloom in mid-summer.

The rose is prickly. It can be grown from seeds even in conditions of a difficult climate for plant development. This variety got its name due to the thorns covering the shoots. Already in the first days of May, wide rose bushes, reaching a height of two meters, begin to be covered with small flowers with a pleasant aroma.

Rose French. Cultivation has been going on for over a century. This variety tolerates cold. The bush usually grows up to one and a half meters in height. Abundant flowering begins in the first month of summer. The flowers are usually large in size and have a pleasant light aroma, color palette varied.

Also in the gardens you can now find English and Canadian rose varieties. These plants are beautiful, have large flowers. They endure adverse environmental conditions and do not succumb to the harmful effects of most pathogens on roses.

Canadian park roses

Canadian varieties park roses were bred specifically for cool climates. They take root well in the regions of Central Russia, while in the southern regions they get hot and may lack water. These roses can withstand colds down to -35 degrees.

John Davis. Has pinkish flowers classical form with a sweet aroma. In size, the bush usually reaches two and a half meters in height, but no more than two in width. Roses bloom all summer long before the onset of cold weather.

John Franklin. A neatly shaped rose bush, reaching a width of about 100 cm, a height of about 120 cm. Terry reddish flowers have fringed petals and outwardly they look more like a carnation. There is a light pleasant aroma. Flowering of this variety in medium-sized inflorescences or individual flowers occurs throughout the summer.

Morden Sunrise. Frost-resistant variety, which is orange with pink. Their flowers are about 8 cm in diameter. The bush can grow up to 1 meter in height and 70 cm in width, besides it is highly resistant to many diseases.

English park roses

English park varieties roses flowers of a special shape, which reach 12 cm in size, they also have beautiful formation bush and minimum requirements to care. Usually it is a spreading form of a plant that is covered with heavy double flowers with a pleasant smell.

Abraham Derby. It was bred by breeders in 1985. The flowers are large, classically shaped in the form of a cup, have a slight fruity smell. Apricot color, pink edging. The color pattern is more pronounced in cold weather. At the end of the shoots usually from 1 to 3 peduncles. This variety is characterized by fast growth, high disease resistance and two flowering waves.

Benjamin Britten. A variety of roses bred only in 2001. Rose bushes are strong, however Not large sizes(they reach a height of no more than one meter), bloom profusely. The flowers are large and deep bowl-shaped, with a fruity aroma with characteristic wine notes. The color is richly bright, reddish with an orange tint. The variety has a high resistance to diseases, undemanding to environmental conditions, except that it just does not like rain.

William Shakespeare 2000. It was specially bred as a replacement for rose bushes of the William Shakespeare variety. It has gained even more resistance to harmful effects. environment, many diseases and insect pests. Bright red densely double flowers emit a pleasant aroma. On each shoot, several flowers bloom at once, holding for about 14 days. At the beginning of flowering, they have a deep bowl shape, but later become flatter.

Landing site selection

Before you start planting a plant, you should decide on a place. For this culture, a well-lit area that will be well ventilated on each side is more suitable. However, you can place the future bush in partial shade - this is not critical. When planting a rose, you need to take into account the composition of the soil.

Suitable soil for park varieties:

containing many nutrients;
loose in structure;
easy;
characterized by a high presence in the composition of humus with a total acidity of pH 6-7.

These characteristics are most consistent with loam. If the planting is carried out in sandy soil, then fertilizers corresponding to the composition will need to be added to it.

Planting park roses

After selection suitable soil you should move on to planting roses. In this case, it will be necessary to decide on the landing scheme and prepare holes for landing.

Well preparation

The hole dug for the future bush should be deep, 5-10 cm larger than the root system, in order to allow all roots to straighten freely there. After all, it is categorically not recommended to allow the curvature or bending of the root system, since this will primarily affect the condition and health of the plant.

Landing patterns

To create a beautifully designed flower bed with roses yourself will not be great work if the basic rules for composing a composition and the principles of combining different pink varieties.

As an element of such a composition, a rose is an extremely versatile plant - it can act as a key element, or it can become a harmonious addition to other flower plants.

First you need to decide on the type of flower garden:

The blooming border is considered an elemental form. To create such a flower bed, you need to plant park roses along the paths, while combining them with tea or other varieties of flowers. Most often, the placement of plants occurs in a checkerboard pattern.
Bright border Mixborder is a mixed type of flower garden, in which there are different types of flowers. Before you start planting roses in a flower bed, you will need to pick up neighboring plants so that they bloom in different time. Large bushes are placed in the background of the composition, medium, spectacularly flowering - in the center, small - in front.

Caring for park roses

Growing park roses, it should be understood that they need to provide special care. Only in this case they will grow beautiful and resistant to various diseases.

Watering, loosening and mulching

Starting in the spring, planted plants need to be watered every two days if the weather is dry or the soil does not hold water well, otherwise a weekly watering will suffice.

Water is especially needed by rose bushes during growth, bud formation and the flowering period. If its shortage is felt, the shoots stop growing, starting to fade, the flowers become smaller, the foliage crumbles.

For one bush, ten liters will be enough. Special attention should be given watering in the summer. In the fall, it should be reduced, and then completely stopped. Watering should be done carefully and only under the root, otherwise the rose may be damaged. various diseases.

The next day after watering the plant, you should proceed to loosening the soil to a depth of 5 cm to improve its water permeability and provide the root system with air, as well as remove weeds. To prevent possible damage to the root in this situation, this procedure must be carried out with caution.

Then you should move on to mulching, which will require covering the soil around the rose with a five-centimeter layer of loose organic material. This will prevent the evaporation of moisture and keep it more in the ground during drought, reduce the number of weeds growing near, protect the bushes from overheating and drying out in the heat and in windy weather.

Usually, chopped straw and tree bark, humus from leaves, compost act as mulch, which can not only improve soil structure, but also provide the bush with additional nutrients.

As a rule, mulching is started in the last days of April - May, but it can also be carried out in the fall, until the soil has completely cooled down. Before proceeding with this procedure, you need to weed the soil. After turning the mulch into humus, it mixes with the soil during the loosening process and soon you need to mulch again.

Fertilizers for growing park roses

Roses react extremely positively to fertilizers. You can feed them both liquid and dry, and foliar. The last type of top dressing is very effective, because in a short time after the composition is applied to the foliage, its components will be in the cell sap of the plant. This helps to increase the number and size of flowers, improve the condition of the rose bush.

For the first time after planting in the soil, if it has been sufficiently fertilized in advance, top dressing is not required. After the removal of the buds is completed, it is better to feed the plant with liquid organic fertilizers.

In subsequent years, you need to regularly feed the roses. During the season, it is required to perform about seven top dressings with organic and mineral type fertilizers that complement each other. The bush feeds on minerals, but organic fertilizer, yielding to slow decomposition, helps to assimilate them.

Nitrogen has a beneficial effect on the growth of foliage and stems, the green mass of the plant, phosphorus promotes the growth of the root system and shoots, reduces the period before flowering, potassium helps to form high-quality flowers, and also increases resistance to droughts and diseases. For this reason, rose bushes need complex top dressing.

Approximate fertilizer rate per 1 square meter: ammonium nitrate - 20 g, superphosphate - 30 g, potassium salt - 10 g.

Pruning and shaping a park rose bush

Pruning is considered a basic requirement for active growth and flowering rose bushes. It needs to be done every year. This leads to the disposal of the plant from old branches, new stems are formed faster, leaves appear, providing excellent growth and flowering.

Pruning can be spring, summer and autumn, that is, it can vary in time, and strong, medium, weak - in intensity. In this case, in the first case, the stem is removed at the level of three, in the second - five and in the third - ten buds.

Also, young seedlings, in order to get developed rose bushes, need to be formed, for which you need to pinch the stems when the fourth leaf appears. For the first time after planting, they need to remove all the buds when they reach the size of a pea.

Pinching allows new stems to appear and develop, which contributes to the formation of a bush with several symmetrical shoots.

At the end of summer, the shaping process can be completed, giving the rose a chance to bloom. If the branches and buds are not pinched, then at the end of flowering the plant will stop growing until autumn, it will turn out to be poorly formed and developed, and this will lead to a decrease in frost resistance.

How do garden roses reproduce?

Reproduction of park roses is carried out by the following methods:

layering - in spring, the stems bend to the ground and are fixed there, after which they are sprinkled with soil. The following year they are separated from mother plant;
shoots - offspring, whose age is about a year, in the spring must be separated from the bush, after which the stem is shortened by a third and transplanted;
dividing the bushes - carried out with the help of garden shears in the first spring or autumn month of the year (each separated part of the bush must have roots and at least one stem);
lignified or green cuttings - the first must be prepared in the fall, buried in the sand, and planted in the spring, the second - during the flowering period.

Shelter of park roses for the winter

Before covering park roses, you will need to bend their stems.

Roses bend down gradually so that the trunks do not break. For the success of the operation, you need to dig up the roots a little from either side, and then tilt the rose. Only fixing the stem with staples or tying the branches, pressing them down with any materials, will prevent it from returning again to the vertical state.

If, in the process of bending down park roses, the root comes off a little from the soil, this will not harm the plant - it will recover in the spring.

Prevention from diseases and pests

This plant is often affected by diseases such as spheroteca and powdery mildew. They are dangerous because they can cause the death of rose bushes.

In the form of preventive measures, before the start of the vegetative period, park roses should be sprayed with a solution based on iron sulphate. Use during flowering modern drugs.

The most dangerous insect pests that have a detrimental effect on roses are garden beetle and raspberry weevil, leafworms and spider mites. Pests, or rather, their larvae, for the most part damage the buds. Adult insects mainly affect buds, leaves and flowers.

To avoid the appearance of pests, you will have to resort to the following measures:

water only the trunk, trying not to moisten the soil and root system;
time to feed the bushes;
regular loosening of the earth should be carried out;
remove weeds.

If insect pests appear, then the rose is sprayed with agents belonging to the category of avermectin preparations. They are actofit, fitoverm and vermitek. These remedies get rid of adults and larvae.

The following diseases are most often found in park rose bushes:

Powdery mildew - manifests itself on a plant located both in open field, as well as in the greenhouse. It affects rose bushes in July-August, quickly moves to plants growing near (the rate of spread of the disease increases in cool rainy weather). A whitish coating appears on the leaves, stem and buds, which later turns brown. The leaves begin to curl up and fall, the buds dry, the rose withers. Powdery mildew affects the types and varieties of rose bushes in different ways. The defeat of plants that are distinguished by thick and leathery leaves occurs less frequently than those whose leaves are thinner and more tender.
black spot leaves - harms the leaves usually in August.
Rust - This disease is caused by a fungus that affects foliage and bark. The disease has a particularly strong effect on park roses.
Star rust - appears on almost all types and varieties of roses. Often affects the plant in June - August. Blackish round spots appear along the edge of the foliage, sometimes on the stems. If the disease progresses, then the leaves begin to turn yellow and fall off. The bushes weaken and next year the rose almost does not germinate.
Pink rust - Infected plants develop small orange pads on foliage and shoots. The spread of the disease occurs due to the spores of the fungus. Defeat different types and varieties occurs differently: red-leaved and remontant rose bushes are less resistant, and tea, polyanthus roses have the highest resistance.

Among the pests are:

The brush-whisker resembles a fly, the back of the insect has a yellowish color. In summer, the insect damages the tops of young shoots and lays eggs, from which greenish larvae hatch, feeding on foliage.
The rose borer lays its eggs at the tips of young rose stems in late spring.
Aphids - colonies of insects settle on all parts of the plant. Pests feed on the juice sucked out of the tissues, due to which the plants weaken, the foliage and shoots twist. Aphid reproduction is fast open ground several generations grow up.
Leaf rollers are small-sized butterflies. In early summer, eggs are laid on the tips of young stems. Caterpillars cause damage to foliage and young buds, entangle them with a cobweb and roll up a tube. Insects unite the edges of the leaves.
The rose cicada is a small flying pest. In autumn, eggs are laid at the ends of the stems. In the spring, larvae appear from them.
spider mite harms rose bushes in hot and dry weather. It settles on the leaves from below, feeding on the juice, the pulp of the leaves, entangling them with cobwebs. Yellowing, drying and shedding of foliage occurs.
Click beetle - larvae eat roots, stems of rose bushes. This insect loves moisture. In the spring they begin to gather in top layer soil, and when the soil dries up, they sink deeper.

Finally, it should be noted that when proper care for the plant and the timely implementation of preventive measures, it will be possible to avoid the appearance of pests and diseases. Follow the recommendations and rose bushes will grow strong and beautiful.

park roses love landing in a well-lit area, but partial shade is also possible. In partial shade, their flowering will not be so plentiful. The south side is best for park roses. There, the plant is darkened for part of the day, which is important in the heat, because it protects against drying out and burns.

However, if you have such a site busy, do not worry, a bush of a park rose can be planted everywhere except in the north (there the stems are stretched because they see little sun (shade prevails), almost do not bloom, more likely to be affected by diseases and insects). The earth should be slightly or moderately acidic (acidity from pH 5.5 -6.5). If you have sandy or heavy soil, you need to compact it with peat, compost, humus, soil in the first case, in the second - loosen it with sand, peat, humus, compost. It is undesirable to place a bush near trees (their roots take a lot of moisture from the soil and useful substances), as well as under the crowns of trees (this is how you artificially create a shadow), and there should be no drafts on the site, i.e. the area is well ventilated, but not too much, because the bush will develop poorly.

Bushes of park varieties have a closed root system, so the time of planting roses may be different, from May to September. Well take root in the conditions of 1-2-year-old (young) bushes. It should be noted that those planted in the fall, before the arrival of the first frosts (until mid-October), the bushes of park roses will have time to take root, and therefore they will better develop and outstrip those plants of this class that were planted in the spring. Circumcision is carried out in the spring, so do not rush to shorten the seedlings in the fall. Prepare the ground in advance in order to be in time before frost. The distance between seedlings should be 1 x 1.5 m or 1 - 1.5 m. The pit should be large enough so that the roots lie easily (do not bend upwards), and the grafting site (root neck) is 5-10 cm under the soil . Inside it is recommended to add humus, peat. After that, we fill in the hole and compact it, making a tubercle, which unfolds in April.

Park roses care

Park roses form a root system, strong branches for three years, so care consists in loosening the earth, fertilizing, pruning, watering. A rose requires a lot of water during development (spring) and during the growing season, that is, ripening and flowering (summer). During drought, the plant is watered more often (2-3 times a week). Better liquid, but abundant watering, than frequent, but small. In the sunny season, they do not saturate with water, and also do not do sprinkling (spraying), so that there are no burns and spread powdery mildew and other diseases. This process is carried out in the morning or in the evening, water is poured in a trickle to the base. Watering the flowers should be stopped at the end of summer (August), so that the shoots become stiff and they are not afraid of frost. However, when the autumn is dry and there is not enough rain, do not forget to water the bushes moderately so that the roots receive moisture. Due to lack of water, the plant may die.

Fertilizer is carried out 4-5 times, after which it is desirable to water the plant. The first - in the spring (nitrogen), the second - during the blooming of the leaves (ammonium nitrate), the third - budding (phosphorus), the fourth - flowering (calcium, phosphorus), the fifth - in the fall (potassium). For the first two years, you can not apply fertilizer if, when planting, you put manure or humus in the hole, because it takes so long to decompose.

The most important thing in the formation of bushes is circumcision. It regulates the shape and number of shoots. It is absent for the first two years, but then it should be carried out. A bush of park roses is bowl-shaped, with 5-9 strong shoots, slightly shortened by a strong superficial bud, keeping shoots along the entire length (in single - dried tips or 2-3 underdeveloped buds), but their number differs from the strength of the bush. It is enough to leave 2-3-year-old skeletal branches. Broken, small, thin, diseased and frozen, as well as those that grow inside the branches are cut to live wood. The vegetation of park roses (the appearance of buds, growth) occurs very early, it is necessary to cut the flowers in mid-April, for this, remove last year's fruits and shoots, they did not overwinter. Use well-sharpened scissors, secateurs, and dry, lignified stems with a saw, because they are very thick and hard. Cover the cut oil paint or garden pitch. Don't forget, the arcuate branches are completely covered in thorns, which are extremely prickly, and to avoid injury, wear thick, leather gloves. On single-blooming park roses, shoots end in flowers that fade and bear fruit in autumn, while the wood ripens to frost. Therefore, the more shoots, the richer the blooms, because the flowers are formed on last year's stems. In remontant park roses, flowers grow in the process of growth, so flowers and fruits appear at the same time. The bush ages over time (in 4-5 years), grows strongly and does not have such attractiveness. To restore the previous decorative beauty, it is necessary to carry out circumcision to rejuvenate. To do this, in the fall, the stems of park roses are cut off to the base, non-flowering branches are removed to cause lush growth. Proper pruning you can achieve the formation of good shoots, abundant flowering and the magical shape of the crown.

park rose quite winter-hardy, only some species need to be easily covered for the winter. We spud earth on the base, and wrap the branches with craft paper in 2 layers, which protects from the sun during the thaw and from sudden changes in temperature. The bush has a unique property of restoration, even if the above-ground part did not survive the frost, it will grow from the base. But it will not bloom the first year, because flower buds are formed on 2-3 annual shoots, and only in some they are formed on the stems of the current year.

The park rose is propagated by dividing the bush, layering and green cuttings.

About, How properly cover roses for the winter Let's talk in our article. After all, a capricious and majestic rose is an adornment of any garden. At the same time, she demands special care. There are species that tolerate any winter well, and there are those sissies who need certain conditions. Let's get acquainted with the features of the shelter and best designs For tea - hybrid, climbing, standard, spray and park roses.

Wonderful flowers come from ancient rome where the temperature never falls below 3 degrees. And since it is much colder in most of Russia, experts have come up with a way to shelter roses for the winter.

Do I need to cover roses for the winter?

The answer to this question depends on the variety of roses and the weather conditions of a particular region. The age, condition of the plant, and shelter option do not greatly affect how plants tolerate cold temperatures. When purchasing a particular type of flowers, you can clarify whether they should be covered. If the climate is warm and the winter is mild, then some even non-hardy varieties can endure it without shelter.

The most winter-hardy species are:

park varieties (Ritausma, Pink Grotendorst, Konrad Ferdinand Meyer, Hansa, Lavinia, Adelaide Hutles);
specific or wild roses (Nitida, Glauka, Wrinkled);
winter-hardy varieties (Skabroza, John Davis, Snow Peyment, Jens Munk, Hanza);
some hybrid species (Alba, Spinosissima, Rugosa).

All other types of experts advise to cover.

When to hide?

spray roses can be covered at the end of October. If this is done earlier, when it is still warm, the temperature in the shelter can rise, causing roots and shoots to develop. Given that the soil moisture rises, moisture accumulates, the roots can rot. Therefore, when the temperature drops to -5 degrees for more than 7 days, roses can be covered for the winter.

Flowers tolerate the first frosts down to -7 degrees. It is recommended in such weather to start covering the bushes. Roses enter a dormant state, stems and roots harden.

But it all depends on weather conditions, the onset of cold weather and the climate of the region.

In outskirts of Moscow roses cover approximately at the end of October. The term may vary, the main thing is that during the week the temperature varies between + 5-7.
In the Urals, in Siberia roses cover in September, because the temperature drops earlier. It is recommended to cover in several layers, because the winters in the Urals are severe and the plant needs additional protection.

advice from experienced flower growers! The main condition for a good wintering of roses can safely be called a dry shelter. Do not cover wet bushes or use wet foliage, dig in with damp soil or covering material. Due to moisture, rot can appear, pests can start and roses will get sick.

Walkthrough

First stage: preparation

Before winter, it is necessary to carry out protective measures for roses.

During flowering, the plant is depleted, nutrient reserves from the soil are consumed. Therefore, fertilizers in the fall should be special so that the plant does not gain green mass, but prepares for frost.

For 10 liters of water, you need to take 16 g of potassium monophosphate, 15 g of superphosphate or 10 g of potassium sulfate, 25 g of superphosphate and 2.5 g boric acid. Apply 4-5 liters of the resulting fertilizer under each bush.
A folk method of feeding is a banana peel or wood ash(for 1 sq. m. you need 3 liters of the bank). In this composition, a sufficient amount of potassium and calcium.
Complex fertilizer "Autumn", which was created specifically to prepare the roots of roses for the winter.
Bushes are treated with fungicides, Fitosporin-M or a 5% solution of copper sulphate.

Roses must be fully mature before being covered. Approximately 3-4 weeks before covering, you need to stop cutting flowers for bouquets. This rule applies to young roses that have been cut for the first time this year. They should fade, thereby naturally stopping the growing season.

Advice! Roses after pruning must be treated with a disinfectant. Bushes are spudded to a height of 30 cm. After that, the roses are ready for shelter for the winter.

Different varieties of roses have different term falling leaves. But be sure to pick or cut off all the leaves. So the plant will be put into a dormant state and the risk of infection will decrease.
To disinfect the aerial parts of the bushes, it is necessary to treat them with a solution of ferrous sulfate or a fungicide before sheltering. The ground under the bushes should be cleared of debris and weeds.

Watch the video! How to properly cover roses for the winter

Second stage: trimming or bending

Park and weaving varieties of roses can not be cut. Some bush varieties And climbing species that are sensitive to cold should be gradually, 3-4 weeks before shelter, placed on supports that fall lower and lower, so as not to damage or break the stiffened stems. This must be done gradually and carefully.

park roses- bend or cut?

Here opinions are divided. Someone leaves roses for the winter without pruning, so that they endure it better. Such a plant will wake up earlier in the spring and it is unlikely that new shoots will be released. But there is back side this medal: the smaller the above-ground part of the bush, the better it will endure frosts. In addition, leaving the upper parts of the stems increases the risk of bacterial development. Therefore, it is still recommended to do pruning.

On the presented photo four stages of warming stamp roses are visible. The roots are undermined if the trunks do not bend well. The leafy part is covered with spruce branches or dry foliage, and covered with lutrasil from above.

How to bend the bushes roses?

Dense and not flexible stems are bent in several stages, as mentioned above. You can use old building studs or rods. Such material bends easily, enters the ground well and can last more than one year.
In order for the bush to become mobile and bend down without harming the plant, you should carefully dig it two or three times with a pitchfork. At the same time, do not dig it out much.
If the bush has been grafted, it should be bent towards the graft. This is done so as not to break the stem from a strong load.

Stamp And climbing roses are removed from the supports and laid on the ground.

Watch the video! Pruning and sheltering roses for the winter

Third stage: hiding

How and what to cover roses for the winter? There are two types of cover: air-dry or wrap.

It is necessary to dig in as follows: prepared bushes are spudded with earth at 20-40 cm in height of the stems. The upper shoots are completely covered with dry foliage. Or roses are completely buried in the ground;
The air type of shelter is the insulation of the roots with foliage or spruce branches, and the above-ground part is a structure made of any materials: plywood or plastic;
There is an option for wrapping roses, for this it is used thermal insulation material e.g. geotextile fabric.

Features of shelter of different types

Experienced gardeners give shelter tips various kinds roses for the winter

climbing rose. The stems of this species are not pruned for the winter. Healthy shoots are pinched, and only the sick are cut out. You should be careful with long loops of roses that are sprinkled with earth. For them, you should carefully prepare the place, pour a layer of sand, and a layer of spruce branches on top. On this pillow, the whips removed from the support are carefully laid. On top of them put another layer of spruce branches, and on top of the film.

There is another option for insulation climbing roses. A tourniquet is made of lashes, which is placed on a prepared wire frame. A protective frame made of wood or lutrasil is made above them, and covered with a film on top.

park roses. Varieties of this species are mostly frost-resistant. But young bushes should be covered for the winter. If the winter is predicted to be cold and severe frosts are expected, then you can cover the park rose with a dry method or digging.
Hybrid Tea rose. For this species, a standard hilling or frame will be a good protection against low temperatures. And the use of spruce branches as an addition will make the winter more comfortable for tea roses.

Watch the video! Bending and pruning climbing roses

The three most popular rose cover designs

Wireframe method

You can build a frame using a base of metal rods. They are folded into an arc, the edges are deepened into the ground.
It is better to cover with warming material after the onset of the first frost. When the temperature drops below 0 degrees for 7 days, you can insulate the frame.
The frame is covered with hilled bushes. For him, you can take the metal rods mentioned above, old wicker baskets, plastic flowerpots of large board sizes, and so on. The frame is built like this:
the place around the bush is marked;
a shelter or dome is formed;
it is covered with covering material, and the plant is sprinkled with foliage or needles, especially if a cold winter is expected;
on all sides, the insulation is pressed with bricks along the edges so that the roses can be ventilated.

This method is convenient for large rose gardens and flower beds. Insulation is stretched over the frame, if necessary in two layers, pressed from below with boards or bricks.

Frame shelters can be of several types:

from the rods you can make a small conical frame for undersized species or a large spherical or cone-shaped frame for bush varieties.
Can be made from wooden beams. The base of the frame is in the center of the flower bed, and metal rods are stuck in arcs on both sides. Covering material is pulled from above.
You can take three iron rods, stick around the bush and connect with wire. A heater is pulled on top. For bushes that grow sparsely, this method is very convenient.
For Moscow region and middle lane Russia use air-dry shelter. A frame is installed on a prepared, hilled bush, and a heater is wrapped on top, which is fixed with a rope.

Fence with embankment

The essence of this method is that a fence is made around the bush, insulation is poured inside: foliage, needles, hay, etc. You can use mesh, plywood, cardboard. A fence is made according to the height and width of the bush. Sometimes it is necessary to wrap it with polyethylene so that the insulation does not spill out.

Lutrasil Cocoon

Tall varieties, especially standard ones, are often insulated, leaving the stem on a support, and the crown is wrapped with covering material.

In this case, the root must be spudded. You can wrap the cocoon with lutrasil or other insulation.

Should be tied at the bottom cold air did not enter.

Advice! In rainy weather, it is better to protect the bush from excess moisture. To do this, water is drained from the rose garden, and the bushes are additionally covered with plastic wrap.

Conclusion

It is worth noting that even if roses grow in warm winters, where the weather stays around -5 -10 degrees, they should still be insulated for the winter. Not only is it protection from the cold, it is also a method of preventing the development of rot, late blight and other diseases. The main thing in this is to choose a shelter method suitable for the type of rose and the type of climate, then the rose gardens will be healthy and beautiful.

Watch the video! How to cover roses for the winter: the surest way