Today, there is a lot of talk about savings in the field of electricity consumption, traffic lights, floors.

To save electricity, the industry produces energy-saving light bulbs. You can save electricity and gas yourself without using them uncontrollably.

Saving water with a faucet with a nozzle

Water is more difficult.

But we often spend too much. And this, oddly enough, contributes to the industry. The manufactured designs of taps can regulate the supply of cold and hot water, mix water, and regulate its pressure. But the design of the taps does not allow serving it as needed in portions (with the exception of taps with touch sensors, which are inaccessible to many).

When washing or otherwise, the water flows continuously. At one time, washstands were widely used at home, in transport, in dachas. Now this device can serve as a retro. But the principle of its work allows you to save water when it needs to be used in portions.

So you have to turn on ingenuity in order to existing structure build a washstand with a modern tap.

I believe that if the industry produced such cranes, they would look more aesthetically pleasing, and would be oversized in terms of volume, and would fulfill their purpose.

The old design of the washstand, which can be combined with a modern faucet.

Crane design

Of all commercially available designs water taps predominantly there are two varieties (Fig. 1,2).

But they all have a detail that is the same in design and size. ego - nose faucet(Fig. 3). Despite its small size, it performs various functions: fine filtering, medium, coarse. Its design allows you to additionally mix cold and hot water, saturate it with air and serves as a watering can.

The proposed design of the nozzle-washing station at the point of its connection to the gander can be made with and without the use of a spout. In the second case, it would be necessary to install a filter and a mixer with air. Hollowly, I propose the design of a washstand nozzle using a spout.

The fixture body and cone must be ordered for custom fabrication. lathe(I assure you that the cost incurred will pay off pretty quickly).

Here is the sequence of steps:

1. Unscrew the spout from the tap using the two flats at the bottom of it.

2. Carefully familiarize yourself with the design of the spout (Fig. 2) and disassemble it.

3. Use a soft brush to clean the filters and other parts of the spout with soapy water.

4. Assemble the filter parts without inserting them into the spout body.

5. Wrap the parts with a damp cloth and keep intact until assembly.

6. Refine the spout with M24 × 1.0 mm thread (Fig. 5).

7. Make the body of the washstand according to the dimensions shown in fig. 4.

8. Install the locking bracket on the housing.

9. Make a cone according to the dimensions given in fig. 6.

10. Make a nipple by cutting a thread Mb mm on both sides of the pin 60 ... 70 mm.

11. Connect the cone to the pin.

12. Insert the cone into the hole with a diameter of 20 mm with the pin down.

13. Rub the cone into the cone hole.

14. Make a button with a diameter of 20 mm and a thickness of 10 mm.

15. Clean the protruding part of the pin.

16. Assemble the spout according to fig. 2.

17. Connect the spout to the gander of the crane.

18. Connect the washstand to the spout.

Now it remains to test the device in operation and eliminate possible shortcomings.

The nozzle is used when a portioned supply of water is required. But you need to ensure a constant supply. Installing and removing the nozzle, you can break its threaded connection. Therefore, a latch is provided on the body, which, holding the cone in the upper position by the putter, allows water to be supplied continuously.

Do-it-yourself economical \ economical crane - drawings

Rice. 1, General form water mixer taps: 1 - shell; 2 - mixer; 3 - mixer handle; 4 - gander; 5 - spout

Rice. 2. General device faucet spout: 1 - body; 2 - thin filter; 3 - medium filter;
4 - filter watering can; 5 - flow slot; 6 - gasket; 7 - spacer legs

Rice. 3. The general arrangement of the nozzle-washstand: 1 - body; 2 - cone; 3 - nipple; 4 - nipple button; 5 - gasket; 6 - gander crane; 7 - spout of the crane; 8 - latch

Rice. 4. The body of the washstand. Material - stainless steel, brass. Sharp edges must be blunted

Rice. 5. Refinement of the faucet spout

Rice. 6. Cone washstand.
The cone should be lapped along the structural hole in the body. Threaded hole for attaching the nipple

S. P. Prokhorov, Dnepropetrovsk

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One day, while relaxing in a shopping and entertainment complex, my wife went to toilet room and went out with great amazement. She said that for a long time she could not figure out how to use the washbasin, and the girl standing next to her politely helped her with this. "Twenty first century! - she said, showing how to use an automatic, touchless faucet, smiled and left. In general, when choosing plumbing for the toilet and bathroom, I wanted to, so to speak, correspond to the flow of time and install something similar, but a study of the market for this equipment four years ago showed that prices for similar devices quite high, and unfortunately remain so to this day. In fact, there is nothing complicated, there are many different presence and presence sensors, a lot of electromagnetic (solenoid) valves of various flow sections and response voltages. There were many ideas, but it was necessary to find the optimal solution between the cost of the device, its reliability and functionality. Two options were developed - one to the toilet with automatic feeding liquid soap(by the way, a similar option is not yet found on the market), the second, in the bathroom - a simple machine with the ability to manually adjust the water temperature. Conventional mixers were chosen first. When choosing, attention was paid to the fact that it was possible to build in the lower part of its body an optical (infrared) sensor for the presence of hands (IR sensor). Enough was found good option- a non-swivel mixer with a place suitable for installing the sensor.

The second option (to the bathroom) did not have such a possibility of installation, and therefore the IR sensor was installed in the sink, in the overflow chamber (Fig. 1), without violating its performance. Perhaps, if you wish, repeat this design you will have to solve these problems individually, as there are many different mixers both in construction and design, but I think my experience will help in solving these problems. Consider the first version of the mixer with the supply of liquid soap (Fig. 2).

Almost all modern mixers that are controlled by one lever have a so-called “cartridge” inside, it can be plastic or bronze, but its functions are the same - this is a modern locking element. In this case, the alteration of the cartridge consisted in the fact that it first opens completely for the same supply of cold and hot water, and then in this position the control knob is removed from it. That is, now, our tap is completely open, and it is not possible to close it. It was easy, the main difficulty was that one of the inputs (hot or cold water) remove with a separate tube from the nozzle (aerator) of the mixer. In this case, the required hole was made in the cartridge and a PVC tube of small diameter (3.2 mm) was removed from one (any) cold or hot water supply channel. The entire space of this chamber of the cartridge is filled with epoxy glue, which fixes the tube and does not allow mixing of two media - liquid soap and water. Epoxy glue did an excellent job of this task, since with the tap always open, there is practically no pressure between the solenoid valve and the water outlet from the mixer, and the water temperature is not very hot. The second end of the tube is pushed outward, into the hole in the aerator (mixer nozzle for mixing water and air and forming a “soft”, air bubble jet). Thus, in the end, we have two inlets to the mixer, which are constantly open, and have different outlets to the outside - for water through the aerator, for liquid soap - through a separate tube through the hole in the aerator - the media inside the tap do not mix (Fig. 3) .

To achieve maximum comfort when using the mixer, a factory-made thermostatic mixer has been installed at its water inlet, which maintains a constant temperature of the stream from the tap, regardless of pressure surges of cold or hot water. Inside the body of the thermostatic mixer there is a thermoelement that reacts to changes in water temperature. As soon as it cools down or warms up at least a little, it immediately restores the previous level of heating, changing the ratio of incoming cold and hot water. If the supply of cold or hot water drops sharply in the water supply system, this will only affect the pressure of the jet, and the temperature will remain the same. If, for some reason, cold or hot water stops flowing at all or its pressure is not enough to maintain the set temperature, the thermostat will simply block the flow. But these are already auxiliary functions of the system, and the need and even the possibility of their implementation must be considered strictly individually. For example, if you often do not have hot water, then this device will block cold water, and the tap will not work. From experience, I’ll add about the need to install a conventional one, you can use a half-turn valve in the path of water movement in front of the solenoid valve. With it, it will be possible to set the necessary, acceptable water supply to the mixer. To supply liquid soap, the windshield washer tank of the Niva car was adapted, which has in its kit a built-in centrifugal pump with a nominal supply voltage of 12 V. This type of tank was chosen solely because of the shape and size. In principle, many windshield washer tanks of other “car” models are suitable for this design, the choice of which is very wide in auto stores.

The layout of all nodes is shown in fig. 4, a appearance finished device seen in figure 5.

To refill the tank, you can use liquid soap of a not very thick consistency, but it is better to refill with not expensive, homogeneous shampoo, they are the most optimal in density, and their washing properties are in no way inferior to liquid soap. One refueling of such a “dispenser” is enough for almost a year of operation, which eliminates the need for frequent maintenance of the system. Server volume detergent can be adjusted over a wide range using the jumper block X1-X3. The principle of setting the supply time and, consequently, the amount of soap is proportional to the sum of the digits indicated on the block. In the upper position of the jumpers “1, 2, 4”, soap is not supplied, and the lower position of the jumper “Z” blocks the operation of the device (supplying voltage to the solenoid valves and the centrifugal pump) and serves to conveniently adjust the range of the IR sensor, while displaying its triggering using the HL2 LED. (In the version of the bathroom faucet firmware, using the jumpers "1, 2, 4", the delay time for turning off the valves is set after removing the hands from the sensor's coverage area).

This mixer has two modes of operation. The first is the usual one, if you bring your hands into the sensor's coverage area (under the aerator spray), then after about a second, the water supply will begin as long as you hold your hands, and after removing them, it stops. The second mode is activated by a quick movement of the hand in front of the IR sensor. That is, in standby mode, when water does not flow, it is necessary to briefly bring and remove your palm into the IR sensor coverage area so that the normal mode does not have time to turn on. The transition to the second mode will be signaled by the illuminated HL3 LED and one BIP will sound (if necessary, it is possible to put this LED in a prominent place).

This control option was chosen from the reluctance to lay extra wires and install a touch or waterproof button (switching on skills are acquired almost the first time). This mode remains on for several seconds, and if you now bring your hands into the sensor coverage area, the mixer will start working according to the program. First, water is supplied for wetting hands, then, after a short pause, liquid soap is supplied in the volume corresponding to the installed jumpers, then there is a pause for soaping hands. Further, the first mode is automatically turned on, and water flows for as long as the hands are in the sensor's coverage area.

The second faucet (bathroom) turned out to be very easy to remake. I unscrewed the cartridge fixing nut, removed it, and turned it 180 ° relative to the axis of the water supply pipes. This led to the fact that when the control knob was allegedly in the closed position, the supply of cold and hot water was already 100% open. Now it was not possible to close it, but by turning the knob to the right or left, you can easily adjust the supply of cold and hot water, thereby changing the outlet temperature. Obviously, you can do without any alterations at all, but I figured that the existing ability to turn off the water manually would take place, and if the tap was left in this position, it would lose all meaning of automatic control.

Device diagram

The circuit diagram of the device for both mixers is the same, quite simple, and differs only in the firmware of the controller (Fig. 6). Firmware AVTO H2O+SOAP corresponds to the version with liquid soap, and AVTO H2O 1+1 corresponds to the version with two valves, cold and hot water. Adjustment of the device consists in setting the optimal zone for the operation of the IR sensor, using a variable resistor R7. One-sided printed circuit board(Fig. 7) is made for the BOX KM-21 case and has dimensions of 68×52mm.

The HL4 LED indicates the presence of the power supply of the circuit, HL2 - the operation of the IR sensor, HL3 - the activation of the mode with the supply of liquid soap. When using the AUTO H2O firmware, the HL3 LED is not used and can be excluded. Diodes VD1, VD2 - SMD, soldered directly to the pins of the clamps on the PCB side. The main attention should be paid to the manufacture of IR sensors, taking into account their careful optical isolation (the IR LED and the TSOP integrated photodetector chip should not have any optical coupling other than the reflected signal), as well as the necessary and sufficient waterproofing of these device components. In both cases (toilet and bathroom) in the manufacture, I used epoxy glue, completely filling the free space between the sensor elements (Fig. 8), which gave a good, positive effect.

The IR sensor is connected to the electronic unit with a shielded wire, and if it is impossible to install the circuit elements C1 and R1 directly on DA1, they are installed in any accessible place, as close as possible to the photodetector (Fig. 9).

The device is powered by a source uninterruptible power supply 12V directly connected to the battery (preferably via a 3A self-resetting fuse). You can use any other power supply that provides a short-term (up to 5 seconds) load current of at least three amperes. But, given the nature of current consumption, it is optimal to use an uninterruptible power supply with a lead-acid battery, because in standby mode, the device consumes only 15 mA, when one valve is operating - 315 mA, two - 615 mA, and when liquid soap is supplied - up to three amps. In this case, the power source, to maintain the battery in a charged state, as well as to provide standby current, does not require high power and dimensions, and the necessary, high current is achieved due to the presence battery, also, from this source, you can provide additional, LED backlight in the toilet and bathroom, in case of a power outage.

Wide range solenoid valves(normally closed), allows you to use any suitable for the flow area and nominal opening voltage of 12 V. V this option, I used probably the most inexpensive option. At the parts store for washing machines“Automatic” I saw at a very low price used solenoid valves. They are universal for various models of machines and differ mainly in the shape and number of inlet and outlet pipes (I used the simplest ones - one inlet per outlet, Fig. 10).

These valves are designed for AC voltage 220 V, so I had to rewind them to a nominal operating voltage of 12 V. The coil is removable, required thickness I determined the winding wire empirically, while the valve confidently opens already at 10 V, without consuming excess current, and as a result does not overheat. The coil can be wound on winding machine, or using an electric drill, with smooth speed control, with a PETV wire Ø 0.224 mm, turn to turn, until the frame is completely filled (the wire is taken from the coil of the magnetic starter PME-200 ~ 50Hz 220 V). The solenoid valve coils do not have any direct contact with water, but are filled with epoxy glue in order to increase reliability (Fig. 11).

In the programs of both firmwares there is a subprogram "ALARM", designed to protect against prolonged water supply. If for some reason (the presence of foreign objects, etc.) a continuous command is received from the IR sensor to open the valve, then after about 40 seconds the output of the control voltage (and therefore water) stops and an intermittent alarm signal is heard. After the cause is eliminated, the lock is automatically released and the device resumes operation. You can read other materials on the "smart toilet" and.

Making homemade mixers

To create homemade faucets, you need valves, pipe trimmings, squeegees, shower nets. If we compare home-made mixers (Fig. 68, 69) with factory standard ones, then the first ones, of course, are larger and rougher. The coating on them is colorful. If the pipes are galvanized, then no anti-corrosion layer is needed at all. Such homemade faucets are not for bathrooms with comfort.

Rice. 68. homemade mixer for a shower with a fixed shower tube and a grid:

1 - pipe; 2 - valve; 3 - drive or barrel; 4 - tee; 5 - shower grid; 6 - shower tube

Rice. 69. Homemade bath and shower faucet with fixed shower tube and spout:

1 - shower tube; 2 - valve; 3 - drive or barrel; 4-cross; 5 - spout

Rice. 70. Homemade shower nets:

A- by diffuser type garden watering can: 1 - collar; 2 - shower tube; 3 - diffuser tube; 4 - mesh diffuser; 5 - cone; 6 - nut; 7 - washer; 8 - bolt; 9 - rubber strip

b- from canned food cans or one can: 1 - shower tube; 2 - locknut; 3 - washer; 4 - rubber gasket; 5 - bank without a bottom; 6 - perforated bottom

V- from the sawing part of the factory flexible hose: 1 - shower tube; 2 - clutch; 3 - branch pipe.

However, when they are sometimes nevertheless installed in the kitchen or in the bathroom with a centralized supply of hot and cold water, the question arises, why add a couple more valves if there is already a valve for each “grade” of water at the entrance to an apartment or individual house. Alas, it is impossible without valves that form the simplest mixer (Fig. 68). Their absence will cause the so-called "pumping": hot water will fall into the cold. Neighboring apartments, nearest small houses get lukewarm water instead of hot.

In a complicated mixer (Fig. 69), the lower valve that opens water into a bathtub or sink can be completely replaced by a tap (Fig. 73).

However, an intermediate part is needed - a square, into which we screw the tap (Fig. 74).

Particular attention should be paid to the difference between a tap and a valve (Fig. 75).

The valve has only one external thread for connection through a coupling or elbow to the pipe. The valve body has two internal threads for screwing pipes. When one pipe is screwed in, the functions of the tap and valve are the same. But only the tap turns the stream of water, and only the valve is placed between two pipes.

Numbers and an arrow are cast on each valve body. The number 20, for example, means the diameter of the free space that remains for the passage of water after the pipe is screwed into the housing.

The arrow on the body must necessarily "look" in the direction of the movement of water. If the valve is mounted on pipes contrary to the direction of the arrow, then large hydraulic resistances occur. They are very disturbing, reducing the pressure of the water. This is very noticeable on the upper floors of houses during peak water analyzes, and on garden plot- during watering, etc.

However, sometimes they “forget” to cast an arrow on the valve body. What to do? They look into the ends of the valve body, where the pipes will be screwed later. Water should enter through the pipe to the end where the valve, rubber gasket and nut are not visible. To make these details more noticeable, the stem is screwed or unscrewed with a flywheel.

A garden watering can diffuser is suitable as a shower screen in a faucet. The absence of a garden watering can is not a problem. The diffuser is made from tin of large cans. Its details (Fig. 70a) are connected with a special seam, called in roofing "lying seam". The seam is soldered or stained oil paint, which prevents leakage and provides sufficient pressure in numerous holes.

Jets of water from the seam, beating with a fountain on the ceiling with strong water pressure, will also not cause delight among any owners of the shower room.

Two or three cuts on the diffuser tube before folding are made on the side that is not subjected to soldering. The cuts are preferably made with roofing shears or, if necessary, last resort, large tailors. Using other types of scissors will dull them. The chisel perfectly cuts through the tin on the board, but this is too labor-intensive technology for the production of a diffuser.

The end of the shower tube is wrapped with a strip of thin rubber. The diffuser tube is put on with cuts on the prepared end of the shower tube. The clamp tightens the incisions, fixing the diffuser on the shower tube. Water pressure will no longer break the diffuser.

Two tin cans are also the “original product” for the shower net (Fig. 70b). Although the shower net from one can has a more attractive appearance: the soldering is more inconspicuous.

Designing a shower screen begins with cutting out the lid when opening the jar. A hole in the center of the lid is cut out so that the end of the shower tube enters it with some difficulty. This hole is not easy to cut. Numerous holes along the intended contour, punched with a nail, a screwdriver with a metal handle or a chisel, will speed up the work. It is clear that the jumpers between the nail holes are removed with a chisel or a screwdriver blade.

Washers, gaskets and locknuts fix the cover on the end of the shower tube. The holes forming the grid are punched in the bottom of the remaining suit of the can with walls or in the second can. Operations for the "organization" of the grid will be more convenient if the tin can is planted on a log. Then the outer side of the bottom is hammered with a nail and a hammer.

The disadvantage of the design of a shower net made of cans is that in order to connect its parts, you need to unscrew the shower pipe from the mixer. Do not solder on weight and at height ?!

There is no need to “invent” a shower net if there are parts from a flexible hose of a long-standing factory production (Fig. 70c) plus a branch pipe and a union nut from standard mixer. It is important that the threads of the nozzle and the coupling match, and that the union nut is screwed onto the corresponding thread of the special nut. If this does not happen, then either they are looking for a branch pipe and a union nut with "related" threads, or they turn parts with the required thread on a lathe.

Figure 71 shows one of the simplest domestic mixers that have been released in previous years. "Meeting" and mixing of cold and hot water takes place in a brass, chrome-plated tube. The expiration of the mixture - through the soldered nipple. The ends of the mixer through rubber tubes quickly come into contact with taps, various forms of pouring, etc. It is convenient to mount such a mixer, for example, between a tap on a pipe with hot water flowing gas water heater and a faucet on a pipe with cold water.

This faucet, suspended above the washbasin, does not “request” any additions. But over the sink, a suitable rubber tube is pulled onto his nipple, which is moved as needed. When the sink is two-chamber, you simply cannot do without such an additional rubber tube, because the nipple is stationary. This was foreseen by the designers. There are sinks, on the shelves of which they are mounted on a mixer and on a brush on a flexible hose. Hot water goes through the hose to the brush. A similar hose with a shower net and a holder is also included in the set of the described mixer (Fig. 71). This hose is especially suitable when the faucet is above a bathtub, drip tray, etc.

The mixer due to the simplicity of the design has disadvantages. To prevent cracks on the thin-walled hose, it is replaced with a "rubber pressure hose with thread reinforcement…” or “rubber sleeve for gas welding and metal cutting”.

Rice. 71. The simplest factory mixer for universal use:

1 - edge; 2 - rubber tube; 3 - mixer; 4 - plastic special nut; 5 - rubber washer; 6 - body; 7- grid; 8 - crown; 9 - skeleton; 10 - hose; 11 - metal special nut; 12 - nipple

So that the rubber tubes do not jump off the ends of the mixer when it is under water pressure, they are pulled together with clamps or tied with thin copper wire or strong threads. It is not difficult to make a similar mixer. You can replace the brass tube with a rubber tube with a hole in the middle. True, it will be more difficult to “cement” a shower tube or hose.

Ingeniously crafted factory holder. The rubber washer is inserted into the plastic case with internal thread. This washer is locked by a plastic special nut, which has a hexagon in the center for screwing in and out (Fig. 71, pos. 4). The holder is fixed on the nipple of the mixer thanks to a hole in the rubber washer 5–8 mm thick. The diameter of the hole in the washer is two millimeters smaller than the outer diameter of the nipple. The main advantage of the holder is the speed of removing and putting on, and in general connecting the hose.

The holder is machined independently on a lathe. An internal hex on a snow nut is not needed. It will be completely replaced by a protrusion with two flats for a regular wrench (Fig. 71, pos. 11). The option without a holder is also quite possible. It will be replaced by a tubular tee, soldered from metal tubes or welded from plastic. The diameters of the tubes of the tee are selected according to the available rubber tubes.

Water taps

Table crane repair

The water-folding table taps (GOST 20275-74) include the KTN15 ZhD toilet table tap with a rigidly fixed spout (Fig. 72a). The lower part of the housing nozzle has four projections evenly spaced around the circumference just above the thread. With these protrusions, the faucet is fixed from turning in the rectangular hole of the sink or washbasin.

Rice. 72. Table toilet taps:

A- KTN15ZhD; b- KVN15D;

1 - drive; 2 - locknut; 3 - seal; 4 - short sleeve; 5 - barrel; 6 - long sleeve; 7 - metal washer; 8 - nut; 9 - rubber washer; 10 - washbasin shelf; 11 - crane body; 12 - valve head; 13 - spout; 14 - union nut; 15 - plastic ring; 16 - rubber ring

Sinks are not applicable here, because they do not have a shelf for installing a tap.

The gap between the square hole in the shelf and the faucet body is not easy to close. If this is not done, then water will flow through the supply pipe when using the tap. The trouble will be not only in the occurrence of rust on the pipeline and puddles on the floor.

A wet pipeline from an inexperienced owner will cause suspicion. Having blocked the access of water to the pipeline, some begin to unscrew it.

This is an erroneous technology for finding the root cause of a water leak. Two rubber washers 9, available in the faucet kit, when installing the latter, install it in such a way as to exclude gaps between the faucet body and the rectangular opening of the shelf 10 . If the standard washers after tightening the locknut 2 do not block the gaps, then washers should be cut from a sheet of rubber of the desired thickness and elasticity.

Gaps occur during the operation of the crane for several reasons: rubber drying, pipeline shift, weak initial tightening of the lock nut. The use of putty, plasticine on dry surfaces is the fastest elimination of gaps. Cement works too. After drying, it is covered with oil paint.

The shelf itself rarely occupies a horizontal position. Here we are talking about one shelf without a washbasin, because the latter may be with some marriage. The roller along the edges of the shelf should not allow water to pass under the washbasin. Otherwise, you can smear the gap between the vertical rear side of the shelf and the wall to which the washbasin adjoins with window putty.

Water gets onto the washbasin shelf in different ways: splashes, leaks from under the stuffing box bushing and, finally, trickles from under the spout union nut on taps of other modifications. The cause of the leak is established after wiping the tap dry and opening the valve head by the handwheel.

Tightening the stuffing box bushing usually eliminates the trickle from under it. Worn rubber rings 16 spout 13 replace. In the absence of new rubber rings, thread seal strands are wound on the old ones. 17 , tighten the union nut 14 . After such a repair, the spout must not be turned, as the seal will be broken.

Foreign-made ceramic washbasins often do not have holes or holes in the shelves. Therefore, a faucet or tabletop faucet cannot be inserted into a shelf. Output: application wall mixer or a crane. But you can very carefully punch the desired hole in the shelf. To do this, turn the washbasin over and put it on a plane so that it does not sway. hole shape on reverse side shelves are marked. With a sharp narrow chisel, first gently knock down a thin layer of glaze. Then gradually make a deepening. A carbide drill with an electric drill can also drill holes. It is clear that the second and third holes must be drilled even more carefully than the first.

Holes weaken the strength of the shelf. Before starting such work, try to do it on a piece of faience, on a broken washbasin, on an outdated cabinet flush tank etc. Even experienced plumbers sometimes get a large hole with very jagged edges. Faience comes in different hardness and plasticity. The gaskets and washers supplied with the faucet will not block such an opening. Therefore, it is advisable to cut out plates with holes from a sheet of aluminum or corrosion-resistant steel and, accordingly, rubber gaskets for them (one plate and one gasket on each side of the shelf). The hole will be completely blocked when the plates and gaskets are tightened with a lock nut on the valve body.

Chassis installation or replacement 11 faucet, as a rule, is done with the washbasin removed from the brackets. To do this, the connection of the supply pipe must be placed below the bottom of the washbasin or sink. Otherwise, the angle of rotation of the lever or wrench will be limited by the vertical wall of the instrument and the wall of the room.

Squeeze is used for the connector 1 , that is, a short piece of pipe with an internal diameter of 15 mm and a length of 110 mm. Both ends of the shackle are threaded GI/2. On one side, the length of the thread is longer. The clutch is completely screwed onto it 4 and locknut 2 .

There are several more modifications of table taps: for KTN10D, a supply pipe with a diameter of 3/8 "is screwed directly into the body; KVN15D and KTN15D are equipped with a swivel spout, like a toilet wall faucet KT15D.

It is attached to the body with a union nut. Sealing is ensured by a rubber ring between the spout and the neck of the body. The ring partially enters the round groove in the lower part of the spout. The second groove is located higher. It includes an expandable plastic ring. 15 at protecting the spout from popping out of the union nut 14 with high water pressure. If the plastic ring is broken, it can be made from copper wire. Rubber rings for sale. You can cut similar ones from a suitable rubber tube.

Cranes KVN15D and KTN15AD have aerators on the outgoing part of the spout. They are periodically clogged with foreign particles contained in the water. The stream is completely weakened. Then unscrew the outer ring of the aerator. Take out the mesh. Blow and rinse it in the opposite direction to the flow in the spout.

Repair of wall faucets

These include brass specks KV15 (Fig. 73) and KV20, installed through the coupling 2 on pipes with a conditional inner diameter of 15 or 20 mm, that is, on pipes of 1/2 "and 3/4". The KV15SD crane has a jet straightener and a protective and decorative coating. It is twice as expensive as the KV15 faucet, and the KV15AD faucet has an aerator and a protective and decorative coating.

Fig. 73. Wall mounted water tap KV15:

1 - pipe; 2 - clutch; 3 - seal; 4 - shell back; 5 - crane body; 6 - gasket; 7 - crane head

Cranes can be placed anywhere. They are especially useful in the garden or personal plot. In the absence of a plug or plug, a tap can also be used.

Especially for these faucets, sinks of the PC type are produced: RS-1 - with one hole in the back, RS-2 - with two holes. In general, the sink kit includes a back and the sink itself with a welded outlet. The kit often lacks screws with galvanized heads for fixing the backrest to the wall. Galvanized screws are rare. Use regular screws, but coat their heads with white oil paint before installation and let them dry.

A revision cast-iron siphon is necessary for this type of sink, because you cannot fit a plastic bottle siphon here. PC sinks do not have big hole in the bottom to install a plastic siphon outlet. The metal outlet welded to the bottom of the sink is inserted directly into the water seal of the cast-iron revision siphon. Between them there is a gap through which, in case of blockage sewer pipe water may flow. Therefore, before lowering it into the siphon water trap, screw a strand of seal onto the metal outlet of the sink. Be sure to impregnate this strand with resin or oil paint, which will prevent the seal from rotting.

After a tight connection between the outlet and the siphon, cover the joint with cement. To prevent the cement from crumbling, wrap it when wet with a strip of gauze or a bandage and coat it with liquid cement on top. This will ensure the tightness of the joint for many years.

The PCV-1 and RSV-2 sinks differ from the PC sinks in that plastic bottle siphons are installed in them. The use of wall faucets with washbasins and sinks is of little use. The fact is that the closer the "nose" of the tap to the outlet, the less splashing.

The outlet of the sink is located at a distance of 150 mm from the wall, and the spout of the tap is at a distance of 90-105 mm. In washbasins and sinks, outlets are located at a distance of 180–255 mm from the wall. To reduce splashing, place the faucet close to the bottom of the washbasin or sink. You can also put a rubber tube on the faucet spout.

Some push the supply pipe along with the tap closer to the outlet. Then for this, use a galvanized pipe, which will slightly brighten up the visible difference between chrome faucet and the outer color of the pipe.

The toilet wall tap KT15D (Fig. 74) has undergone a number of changes. In the past, his spout was screwed directly into the body, that is, the spout had one stationary position. When trying to turn the spout from threaded connection with the body began to drip. The spout had to be turned inside out, the threads of the seal were screwed onto the threads and again, with difficulty, wrapped it into the body.

Rice. 74. Wall-mounted toilet faucet KT15D:

1 - pipe; 2 - clutch; 3, 6 - seal; 4 - branch pipe; 5 - crane body; 7 - crane head; 8 - rubber ring; 9 - expandable plastic ring; 10 - union nut; 11 - spout

Now the spout is attached to the faucet body with a union nut 10 . Thanks to the rubber seal 8 and expandable plastic ring 9 spout can be rotated. The rubber ring protects against leakage along the spout, and the expanding ring prevents the spout from falling out from under the union nut. The plastic expansion ring sometimes breaks. Replace it with a ring of copper wire, which you can anneal to "soften". Under the rubber ring, when it is worn, wind up, for example, threads or purchase a new one at the Plumbing store. From a suitable rubber tube, you can cut the necessary rings yourself, but in quality and durability they will be worse than branded ones.

Water supply pipe 1 with inner diameter 15 mm (1/2") connected to the valve body 5 (Kr67e) through the clutch 2 . The pipe is pre-screwed into the body 4 . In order not to damage the thread, a cut is made on the protruding part of the pipe even at a time when the pipe is not cut off from the pipe. After the branch pipe is separated, the burrs are cleaned on it, the seal is screwed on and screwed into the valve body using a steel plate. Instead of a plate, an old-style fixed-arm handle with a multi-millimeter steel plate handle can be used.

In the KT15D crane, the connection of the body with the supply pipe is simplified. The branch pipe and the body are combined, while only a coupling is needed for docking.