Water pipes      06/16/2019

Is it worth polishing a car with a grinder? How to make a simple polishing machine and what is needed for this? How to polish a car with a grinder

How to make a grinder

When working with wooden surface coming to an end, the stage is coming final grinding. To perform sanding without burrs, scratches, round off nicely sharp corners any detail, you must use a wood grinder. This tool will help you perform professional grinding even for a beginner who first took the device in his hands. If you wish, you can make a grinder yourself, using only improvised means.

The industry produces several types of machines that differ both in design and purpose. Here are the main ones:

  • Eccentric or orbital, in this case the sole of the tool simultaneously rotates around its axis and along some orbit. It turns out that each time it passes in a slightly different place, so scratches and burrs are rubbed off with each pass more and more.
  • vibration model. Here, the working sole carries out reciprocating movements with a frequency of about 20,000 movements per minute. It is due to these movements that grinding occurs.
  • corner Grinder, which is popularly called "Bulgarian". With the help of this tool, rough processing of parts, large logs, etc. is carried out. Used for processing abrasive wheels required grit.
  • Belt sander, which is usually used for work on large surfaces. Structurally, it consists of rollers driven by an electric motor, on which an emery tape is put on.

Making a belt grinder with your own hands + ()

Making a belt sander yourself is not at all difficult, you must perform the following steps:

  • pick up suitable materials and details;
  • make a reliable basis for fixing the tool;
  • install a suitable countertop;
  • to fix vertical racks with tensioner and drum;
  • mount the motor and drums;
  • fasten the sanding tape.

To process rather large parts and elements, it is necessary to make a large copy of a serial grinder. For example, if you take an electric motor with a power of 2 kW or more powerful with a rotor speed of 1500 rpm, then the gearbox can be omitted. The power of such an engine is quite enough to rotate a drum of about 20 cm in diameter and process parts of about 2 m.

You can also use Electrical engine from the old washing machine. The bed in this case is made of a thick sheet of iron, having prepared a place for installing the motor and carefully fixing it with bolts to eliminate vibration. The design of such a machine consists of 2 drums, one of which is fixed, and the second can be stretched and rotated on bearings around an axis. The basis for the machine is preferably made of metal or several sheets of thick plywood. Drums make on lathe from chipboard. The tape is cut from canvases sandpaper about 20 cm wide and is fixed on the frame. The larger the table dimensions, the larger parts can be stacked and processed in the future. Blueprints finished products can be found on the web.

We make a grinder from a grinder

Many may say that the “grinder” is the same as an angle grinder, but there are some subtleties hidden here. It should be borne in mind that the angle grinder has very high speeds and often quite a decent weight. To polish the surface with a grinder, you must have considerable experience in this matter and use special polishing discs and circles. The grinder has a much lower engine speed and weight. To work with a factory grinder, certain experience and skill are not required.

It is possible to independently make a good grinder from a grinder, which is not inferior in its parameters to a factory machine, only by refining it electrical circuit, by mounting the regulator at a lower speed and by using special grinding attachments.

We make a grinder from a drill

To turn ordinary, household electric drill in the grinder, you need to equip it with a special nozzle - a working drum or a special support plate, depending on the task.

The support or grinding plate is a plastic or rubber base with glued sandpaper and a shank for clamping into a drill chuck. Flexible shaft cymbals are suitable for working with a loose drill, while rigid shafts are best used only for a well-fixed drill.

Sanding drums for a household drill, they are structurally an ordinary cylinder, a shank and sandpaper glued to the cylinder. When using drums working surface grinders is located parallel to the axis of rotation.

Making an orbital sander

Currently, you can make an orbital machine with your own hands only from a broken orbital machine. This is due to the complex device for rotating the working disk, which is quite problematic to repeat on its own. It should also be borne in mind that a machine made by a specialized company will not cost too much, and it will be very difficult and time-consuming to make it yourself.

We make a grinder from a computer hard drive + ()

Anyone who has served HDD can be converted into a miniature grinder. To do this, follow these steps:

  • completely disassemble the hard drive and remove from the case everything that is located to the left of the magnetic disks;
  • cut a working circle from sandpaper, make a hole for the spindle in the center of the circle;
  • stick several strips of double-sided tape on the rotating disk of the hard drive and fix sandpaper on it;
  • do protective screen, protecting the eyes from the possible departure of the manufactured emery disc;
  • connect the finished structure to the power supply from the computer and use it.

Of course, this design does not have high power, but it is quite possible to sharpen a small knife or scissors.

You will also be interested in:

http://instrument-blog.ru

End of article, start: Here

grinder functions.

The drill is good because it changed the nozzle, and got new tool. Now we will talk about using your impact drill as a powerful tool processing various surfaces.

Rough surface finish.
For cleaning wood and metal surfaces from paint, varnish, rust, a special nozzle is used on a drill, which is called a bowl-shaped twisted cord brush. It looks like this:

When using a cord brush, follow these guidelines:
- Clamp the cord brush securely in the chuck.
- Work the whole plane.
- Do not press the cord brush too hard on the surface.
- Do not exceed the speed indicated on the cord brush.
- Hold the drill securely and firmly in your hands.

Softer surface finish.
The same treatment, but softer, is applied with a different cord brush. This is how it looks installed in your drill:

Grinding surfaces with sandpaper.
If you need to sand a surface or part, for example, to remove splinters from wooden block, then, cutting out a circle of sandpaper, and putting it on a special device (grinding disc), you will do it with ease. This is how the fixture installed in the drill looks like:

However, this is not the end of the matter. If you don’t have time, or you don’t want to cut circles out of sandpaper yourself, and then put them on a fixture, you can buy self-adhesive sanding discs for a drill. True, in this case, you need to purchase another device called a “support grinding plate”. You take a plate, stick a sanding disc to it with Velcro and install it in a drill. Everything, you can start grinding:

The fantasy of the master is very rich. Below is a nozzle called "radial petal disc". Each petal of such a disk is made of sandpaper. Also applicable for grinding after installation in a drill:

Polishing surfaces with a sponge.
Together with the support plate discussed above, a polishing sponge is also used. The polishing sponge is attached to the base plate with Velcro. You install this nozzle in a drill. Everything, the polishing tool is ready. You take a polishing paste, apply it to the surface to be polished, then turn on the drill and start rubbing the polish with a sponge attached to the drill:

Knife sharpening.
In stores, you can also find a radial whetstone for a drill, which can be used, for example, for sharpening knives. This is how the grindstone looks like installed in a drill:

Screwdriver functions.

Classic screwdriver.
A soft start drill that can be successfully used as a screwdriver at slow speeds. For these purposes, a special “bit holder” nozzle is used on the drill. The holder is installed in the drill, and then the corresponding bit for the self-tapping screw is installed in it. In this way you can successfully spin fast a large number of self-tapping screws, which is of course important during repairs. If your drill has a reverse, then you can unscrew these screws. If your drill has a shock impulse moment, then it can unscrew even completely ancient self-tapping screws that have long been stuck in the wall, in which the slot for a screwdriver has been ground off. Therefore, I highly recommend looking for a drill with this additional feature.

Screwdriver for hard to reach places.
There are times when it is quite difficult to tighten or unscrew the screw (masters say “do not get close” to the screw).

Grinding accessories

True, this is more common in a car, but this can also be encountered with ordinary apartment repairs. So, for tightening and unscrewing screws in hard-to-reach places, a special nozzle is used on a drill, which is called a “flexible shaft extension”. One end of the flexible shaft is fixed in a drill, and the other is magnetic holder for bit. You install the desired bit in the holder, and now, your tool for tightening screws in hard-to-reach places is ready:

Mixer functions.

When you really get into repair work, then you will face the fact that you will constantly need to knead something: wallpaper glue, cement-sand mixture (CPS), floor leveler, glue for gluing tiles, plaster, putty and more. Let me tell you right now, you can't do it by hand. Firstly, you will quickly get tired, and secondly, you will never be able to mix cement mortars with your hands to the state of thick, even sour cream! Therefore, a drill with a mixer comes to the rescue. The mixer looks like this: Installed in a drill, the mixer looks like this:

How to work with an impact drill

Before you start working with an impact drill, you need to set up the tool and prepare everything you need for work. Now I will talk about my drill, but for other drills the principle will be similar.

Setting the operating mode.
First, realize what kind of work you have to do. The impact drill has only 2 main modes - this is the drilling mode and the chiseling mode. In accordance with this, you need to set either a “drill” or a “hammer”. I note right away that you set the hammer only for the drill to work in the hammer drill mode. In other cases: drilling, grinding, tightening screws, mixing cement mortars is carried out when the switch is set to the “Drill” position.

Speed ​​setting.
For different types works you will exhibit different speed. For example, if you need to drill holes in a metal plate that you want to use for a bracket, then it is better to turn on the 2nd speed. If you are going to knead cement mortar or want to tighten the screws, you must set the 1st speed. If you are going to work with a cord brush, then usually when buying nozzles, the recommended speed is indicated on the package. Thus, you can navigate in the choice of speed. If suddenly you don’t know at all what speed to set for a certain type of work, consult with professionals.

Reverse setting.
For all types of work, except for loosening screws, the direction of rotation of the drill chuck should be clockwise. To do this, the reverse switch must be set to the position where the arrow points to the cartridge.

Nozzle installation.
Depending on the nature of the work, you install the desired nozzle on the drill. I have told you about attachments throughout this book. So just take a look at the right section.

During work.
The drill is started by gently pressing the start switch. (See Impact Drill Construction). Moreover, the harder you press, the faster your drill accelerates. With the strongest pressing, the maximum speed will be the one that you set when choosing the mode: “1st speed” or “2nd speed”. In this way, with the start switch and speed change, you achieve a very wide speed range. If you are drilling a surface for a long time and are tired of pressing the start switch, then for this purpose, press the "Lock Button" by releasing the start switch. In this option, the drill will continue to work. This is convenient, because saves your energy. You can disable this mode by pressing the start switch again.

Finally, if you are unscrewing the screw, then set the reverse switch to the position where the arrow points towards your hand. When the drill is smoothly turned on, the chuck should rotate counterclockwise.

Dangerous experiments

The impact drill will be your indispensable friend and assistant in a variety of jobs. But, nevertheless, there are things that are unacceptable in operation, and I will briefly talk about them now. We are talking about a circular saw blade, which, for some reason, some also want to install on a drill, thus constructing an electric saw:

Remember the rule: saw blade do not put on a drill. First, because there is no protective cover. Secondly, there will be no necessary pressure on the material being processed. In the third, the drill will “walk” in the hands, and if the saw lies unevenly on the surface being sawn off, then either the disc will fly apart, or the drill will be pulled out of your hands, and no one knows where it will fly! Injury guaranteed! This is very dangerous and let's not experiment like that!

Finally

As you gain the necessary experience with an impact drill, you will likely want more. The first thing you will encounter is that you will need not only to make a hole in the wall for the dowel, but, for example, to completely drill a thick wall with a drill with a diameter of 10 or 13 for laying wires. It will be difficult to perform such work with an impact drill. Do not mock her, otherwise she will quickly fail you. In these cases, of course, use a perforator.

The second point is the speed of work during the repair. If, for example, you are expecting a global installation of drywall on all walls in the apartment, then of course, in addition to the impact drill, it is not a bad idea to purchase a screwdriver separately. The fact is that you will constantly hammer the wall and wrap screws. Moreover, you will alternate these two types of work so often for a long time that for a moment it will seem to you that you are only doing that you are changing the drill for a screwdriver. Therefore, having a separately charged impact drill and a screwdriver at hand, the efficiency of installing drywall will increase significantly. There is one more secret: a screwdriver weighs lighter than an impact drill and, of course, it is more convenient to wrap it.

However, if you are new to repair, I don’t want to burden you with expensive purchases right away and tell you purely my experience, which began with a hammer drill and I think that this sequence of mastering the tool is the most correct. You ask, or maybe just buy a hammer drill instead of an impact drill. I answer. A hammer drill is even heavier than an impact drill, and now it will not be at all convenient to use it as a screwdriver or surface grinder. Take it as a rule: a puncher is needed mainly for chiselling walls.

Voronov Sergey

Ending. Article start here

Nozzle for a drill for grinding

If you think that a drill can only drill holes in the walls, you are mistaken.

Hammer drill. Functions and setting

This tool is quite versatile due to the large selection accessories to him. For example, it is worth buying a sanding attachment for a drill, and you can sand almost any surface.

Varieties of grinding nozzles for a drill

There are over a dozen different drill bits on the market. Each of them is a rod and a grinding material fixed on it. And depending on what kind of material it is (sandpaper, felt, abrasive element), you can grind the surface from one or another material.

Here is a list of the most popular grinding attachments:

  • plate - can be plastic, rubber, etc .;
  • cup - with brushes or soft filling;
  • disk - with soft or metal packing;
  • drums - with emery tape, there may be several subspecies;
  • fan - with sandpaper elements;
  • end - in the form of cones, drums, washers, made of soft and hard materials;
  • soft polishing discs.

A wood sanding drill bit is usually a cup type bit with stiff metal bristles. The lighter ones are made of brass. Also, a similar attachment for a drill is used for grinding metal and removing corrosion and paintwork from metal surfaces.

For metal surfaces, drum nozzles are also used, on the side walls of which sandpaper is attached. These nozzles can be processed round holes and shaped parts made of wood and metal.

Fan nozzles for a drill are made in the form of a disc for grinding metal with pieces of abrasive material fixed on their edges. They are easy to handle hard-to-reach places and grind internal cavities in small holes.

A drill attachment for grinding walls with fine sandpaper can speed up the process of leveling walls after they have been plastered. This method is more budgetary compared to the acquisition grinder. However, it has drawbacks - the drill overheats rather quickly, and there are fears that the nozzle may simply fly off in the process. In a word, wall polishing special device more convenient and safer.

In addition to buying nozzles for a drill, you can make them yourself, thereby saving even more on working tools.

Performing repairs or making furniture, a specialist simply needs to have a device such as a grinder that allows you to grind various materials. Yes, and when done welding work such a mechanism is simply irreplaceable. To buy this device in your own workshop is the desire of any master. However, industrial grinding machine is quite expensive. And to have it without doing it professionally is expensive for the family budget. That is why there is a desire to make it with your own hands from the mechanisms at hand. An angle grinder is best suited for these purposes: it can easily be transformed into a necessary power tool.

The simplest is to buy finished fixture for grinding and mount it on the angle grinder. The photo shows that the installation of the mechanism does not present any particular difficulties. It is enough to attach the bracket with rollers to the angle grinder, having previously dismantled the protective cover. The driving wheel is fixed on the angle grinder shaft. The sanding paper is put on the rollers, and the grinder is ready to work.

For convenience, you can fix the device to the table with clamps.

However, such a device is far from always possible to buy in a store, and the cost of such a gadget is significant.

To reduce costs, but at the same time limit the possibilities of using the grinder, an attachment consisting of rods with two rollers. The device allows you to make a grinder from a grinder in a matter of minutes. The fixture has a standard mount suitable for mounting on an angle grinder.

The design of this mechanism is intended for cleaning welds. Polish wooden crafts such a gadget is quite difficult. However, if it is rigidly fixed on the table, it can be successfully used as grinding machine for dressing cutting tools or sharpening knives, axes, etc.

Such a device is also produced by the industry, but it is extremely rare to find it on sale.

Homemade mechanisms for angle grinders

In order not to look for ready-made nozzles, you can try to make them yourself. Eat different variants manufacturing of such devices, which will be discussed below.

From plywood

First of all, consider the option of how you can make a simple grinder from a grinder with your own hands. The simplest option grinders are obtained from angle grinders, two rollers, a tension mechanism and a plywood base.

For manufacturing, you will need thick plywood - this is an affordable and inexpensive material.

The hardest part of this design is production of rollers. It's good if the home workshop has milling machine or manual frezer. To do this, a suitable workpiece is machined from plywood with a milling cutter, processed on a grinding machine, and bearings are pressed in.

A base is cut out of the same plywood, in which a hole is cut for the grinder. Mark the places for the rollers, after which they fix the angle grinder and mount the wheels. It is first necessary to treat the polished wheels with varnish. After that, the entire system is assembled, and the grinder from the grinder is ready to go. The design of the device is clear from the presented photo.

sheet metal

If the workshop has welding machine, and a familiar turner will grind the necessary rollers, then do polishing machine can be from the remains of the metal.

For this, the remains of a thick sheet metal, which will go to the manufacture of the base.

Such a device will be no worse than the factory one. It takes a lot of time to make, but it's worth it. Before starting work, it is necessary to develop working drawings or download them from the Internet. By assembling the mechanism not according to the drawings, you may not achieve the desired result, or the resulting device may be a source of increased danger.

First of all, it is necessary to make accurate marking of the bed. As an example, we use the following device drawing:

The arrow indicates the diameter, which must be specified depending on the angle grinder used in this design.

on milling and drilling machines drill holes according to the marking. Then you need to prepare tension bar as shown in the photo.

Turn the rollers, and only after that proceed with the assembly of the mechanism. It turned out to be a universal attachment, as a power unit of which you can use not only a grinder, but also another suitable electric motor. Ready view shown in the photo below.

From the remnants of the pipe

Having the skills of a welder, you can easily convert an angle grinder in your home workshop into a grinder. For this it is enough

  • weld cut corners or square pipes u-shaped;
  • fasten suitable rollers at the ends;
  • screw the drive shaft to the shaft of the angle grinder;
  • mount the sanding pad, and the device is ready for use.

With this grinder, you can perform various operations:

  • clean the irregularities of the metal after welding;
  • perform a complete grinding of the part;
  • process wooden products;
  • perform final, finishing, processing before coating the part with varnish;
  • handle irregularities in concrete walls.

To clean or grind various surfaces, you should select a sanding pad designed for the material being processed.

Safety

When working with a homemade grinder, safety precautions should not be neglected and personal protective equipment. Persons under the age of 18 should not be allowed to work. When using the device, be sure to use safety glasses and earplugs to protect your eyes and hearing from harmful effects. external factors. Do not forget about the mask that protects the respiratory organs from dust.

In the video below, you can learn in detail how and from what to make a grinding device. It also gives all the main dimensions of the parts of the mechanism.

It is not necessary to send the car to the service or buy tons of expensive funds in specialized stores. You can put your car in order very simply and economically - using high-quality polish, special paste and an ordinary grinder. So, you will not only save money, but also be sure of an excellent result of work.

Types of polishing agents

Even the most reliable paintwork fades sooner or later - because of this, chips and cracks appear on the surface of the car body. It is them that polishing destroys, returning your “iron horse” to its original appearance. Of course, in order for the game to be worth the candle, you need to choose the right polish and paste:

  • Abrasives. Polishing with these substances removes scuffs and scratches from the surface of the car. Remember that such products at the same time destroy a small layer of varnish, so after polishing the car it needs to be restored. Of course, you should not abuse abrasive polishing - too frequent use such means can destroy the paintwork of the car body;
  • non-abrasive substances. With the help of such means, protective polishing is carried out. In order for the car to look presentable, a similar procedure must be carried out at least once a year;
  • Silicone polishes. These substances fill the smallest cracks in the body - and give the car a pleasant shine. Often they are used in combination with abrasive agents - to fix the polish.

How to polish a car with a grinder

Despite its simplicity and economy, this method of polishing causes lively debate among motorists. Some drivers are firmly convinced that the grinder will only ruin the car, while other car owners diligently rub their vehicles with this particular tool, and are completely satisfied with the result. The thing is that polishing is a very responsible matter, so it must be done very carefully and carefully. Even one wrong move can nullify all your efforts.

Polishing steps:

  1. Preparation for work. First of all, clean the car from dirt and dust. If you don't do this, polishing won't bring the expected result, and you will waste the substance. In addition, remove signs of rust. Every driver knows that corrosion is one of the main enemies of the car, and the untimely destruction of rust can lead to costly repairs.
  2. Processing the machine with sandpaper. Use only fine-grained sandpaper - it reliably removes everything deep scratches and chipped paint. Due to the degree of graininess, such paper clogs quickly, so do not forget to moisten the surface of the body with water from time to time.
  3. Use of abrasive polish or paste. The grinder for polishing must be equipped with a speed controller - if you choose another tool, you risk scratching the car badly. Fix the polishing wheel on the grinder - apply paste on it. In addition, do not forget to drop a little money on the working area of ​​​​the car. Remember that you need to polish crosswise, slowly moving horizontally and vertically. Make sure that the grinder moves smoothly - if the tool starts to slow down, sprinkle water on the working area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe car.
  4. Application of silicone paste. After the surface of the machine has been polished, remove the remaining paste with a soft cloth. Then apply a little silicone paste to the polishing wheel of the grinder - and walk along the surface of the body.
  5. Applying a protective layer. On final stage you no longer need a grinder. Now, on a soft cloth or on a special mitt, you apply a little protective polish. Try to distribute the layers evenly - then there will be no excess polishing, and the smudges can be easily removed with a napkin.

Benefits of polishing a machine with a grinder

The popularity of this method is growing by leaps and bounds. The reason for this lies in the fact that polishing with a grinder has several advantages:

  • Availability. The grinder is in the toolbox of every man, so you will not need to purchase or rent professional tools.
  • Simplicity. To polish a car with a grinder, you do not need to have specific knowledge and years of experience. It is enough to be patient and careful in doing this work.
  • Versatility. Using a grinder, you can easily tidy up not only the surface of the body, but also the glass with headlights. By the way, when processing headlights, completely abandon silicone products. In some cases, it is necessary to use coarse-grained sandpaper.

When work with a wooden surface comes to an end, the stage of finishing grinding begins. To perform grinding without burrs, scratches, beautifully round the sharp corners of any part, you must use a wood grinder. This tool will help you perform professional grinding even for a beginner who first took the device in his hands. If you wish, you can make a grinder yourself, using only improvised means.

The industry produces several types of machines that differ both in design and purpose. Here are the main ones:

  • Eccentric or orbital, in this case the sole of the tool simultaneously rotates around its axis and along some orbit. It turns out that each time it passes in a slightly different place, so scratches and burrs are rubbed off with each pass more and more.

  • vibration model. Here, the working sole carries out reciprocating movements with a frequency of about 20,000 movements per minute. It is due to these movements that grinding occurs.
  • Angle grinder, which is popularly called the "grinder". With the help of this tool, rough processing of parts, large logs, etc. is carried out. For processing, abrasive wheels of the required grain size are used.
  • Belt sander, which is usually used for work on large surfaces. Structurally, it consists of rollers driven by an electric motor, on which an emery tape is put on.

Making a belt sander with your own hands + (Video)

Making a belt sander yourself is not at all difficult, you must perform the following steps:

  • select suitable materials and details;
  • make a reliable basis for fixing the tool;
  • install a suitable countertop;
  • fix vertical racks with a tensioner and a drum;
  • mount the motor and drums;
  • fasten the sanding tape.

To process rather large parts and elements, it is necessary to make a large copy of a serial grinder. For example, if you take an electric motor with a power of 2 kW or more powerful with a rotor speed of 1500 rpm, then the gearbox can be omitted. The power of such an engine is quite enough to rotate a drum of about 20 cm in diameter and process parts of about 2 m.

You can also use an electric motor from an old washing machine. The bed in this case is made of a thick sheet of iron, having prepared a place for installing the motor and carefully fixing it with bolts to eliminate vibration. The design of such a machine consists of 2 drums, one of which is fixed, and the second can be stretched and rotated on bearings around an axis. The basis for the machine is preferably made of metal or several sheets of thick plywood. Drums are made on a lathe from chipboard. The tape is cut from sandpaper cloths with a width of about 20 cm and fixed on the frame. The larger the table dimensions, the larger parts can be stacked and processed in the future. Drawings of finished products can be found online.

https://youtu.be/vDs1gBM_MW4

We make a grinder from a grinder

Many may say that the “grinder” is the same as an angle grinder, but there are some subtleties hidden here. It should be borne in mind that the angle grinder has very high speeds and often quite a decent weight. To polish the surface with a grinder, you must have considerable experience in this matter and use special polishing discs and circles. The grinder has a much lower engine speed and weight. To work with a factory grinder, certain experience and skill are not required.

It is possible to independently make a good grinder out of a grinder, which is not inferior in its parameters to a factory machine, only by finalizing its electrical circuit, by mounting the regulator at lower speeds and by using special grinding nozzles.

We make a grinder from a drill

To turn an ordinary, household electric drill into a grinder, you need to equip it with a special nozzle - a working drum or a special support plate, depending on the task.

The support or grinding plate is a plastic or rubber base with glued sandpaper and a shank for clamping into a drill chuck. Flexible shaft cymbals are suitable for working with a loose drill, while rigid shafts are best used only for a well-fixed drill.

Grinding drums for a household drill are structurally a regular cylinder, a shank and sandpaper glued to the cylinder. When using drums, the working surface of the grinder is parallel to the axis of rotation.

Making an orbital sander

Currently, you can make an orbital machine with your own hands only from a broken orbital machine. This is due to the complex device for rotating the working disk, which is quite problematic to repeat on its own. It should also be borne in mind that a machine made by a specialized company will not cost too much, and it will be very difficult and time-consuming to make it yourself.

We make a grinder from a computer hard drive + (Video)

Any used hard drive can be turned into a miniature grinder. To do this, follow these steps:

  • completely disassemble the hard drive and remove from the case everything that is located to the left of the magnetic disks;
  • cut a working circle from sandpaper, make a hole for the spindle in the center of the circle;
  • stick several strips of double-sided tape on the rotating disk of the hard drive and fix sandpaper on it;
  • make a protective screen that protects the eyes from the possible departure of the manufactured emery disc;
  • connect the finished structure to the power supply from the computer and use it.

Of course, this design does not have high power, but it is quite possible to sharpen a small knife or scissors.

instrument-blog.ru

Homemade grinder from a grinder.


Hello, dear readers of the ForgeMika.com blog.

A grinder from a grinder, especially a belt type, with the current supply of the tool market, at first glance, looks about the same as the invention of a bicycle. However, if we weigh some facts, then it may be worth spending your time and making the necessary efforts on this. Yes, the market is really crowded. But it's full for the most part, a “disposable” tool, which, it seems, is inexpensive to buy, and it’s not a pity to throw it away in the event of a breakdown. It's just a pity to spend money on the same tool again. However, a branded, high-quality analogue has always distinguished and distinguishes a completely different price level. It is in this situation that many masters begin to think about how to spend half a day of working time to expand the capabilities of an existing tool.

For example, if desired, an angle grinder can be “grafted” with the ability of a belt grinder. So, the name of a quality grinder, it is not always necessary to spend money on a belt grinder of identical quality. You can, after listening to our recommendations, save several thousand hryvnias by expanding the capabilities of the grinder you already have.

The main structural elements of a belt grinder

The main components of belt grinders are, in addition to, of course, the engine, rotating elements. There are two of them in the device of each such machine, they are needed for installing and tensioning the belt abrasive element and its rotation during processing operations. Structurally, they are similar, but have certain differences in the device. It would be correct to make them from aluminum alloy. The choice of this type of material for the manufacture of these parts causes a small specific gravity this material. The lightweight rotating element provides for low inertial loads on the drive of the machine, benefits in tool storage (no corrosion on the rollers) and other advantages. That is, if you have in your arsenal a long enough piece of this material in the form of a thick-walled pipe, then excellent. A solid cylindrical billet of a sufficiently large diameter is also suitable.

What diameter is considered large enough? You can navigate here by the outer diameter of the bearings at your fingertips that you are going to use to make rollers. So that after you bore the bearing seats, the wall thickness of the roller remains at least 5 mm, ideally 8 mm. There will be more, no big deal. However, all this implies that outside surface this roller should already be turned on the machine, to give it a perfectly smooth cylindrical shape. The length of the roller can be selected based on the width of a standard belt abrasive element (and it is usually 75 mm), that is, it is worth taking a size of 77 - 80 mm. Just in case, we recall that the seating areas for bearings are prepared with a slight interference relative to the outer diameter of the bearing.

Roller design

We have already mentioned that the rollers are structurally different. Let us describe their construction in more detail. Let's start with the rear roller, it's easier. It is a cylindrical hollow body with two symmetrical sections on both sides (at the bases of the cylinder). These sections are just intended for landing on them the outer ring of our bearings. The front, leading roller is more complicated. It will be fixed on an axis having a cantilever type of fastening, and a special sleeve is inserted inside it, which will be fixedly mounted on a movable base, and the roller rotates freely around the sleeve. A bearing is placed inside this bushing, and the bushing serves as the driving part of the mechanism by which the abrasive belt is installed. The axes for the rollers can be any steel blanks, the outer diameter of which is bored out for the free installation of bearings on them. And at one end of the axle, a thread is cut for the lock nut.

Getting started with the manufacture of the installation mechanism for the abrasive belt

The bushing shown above is part of complex design carrier, which is a device consisting of two rectangular steel strips connected by welding at a right angle. The width of the strip should slightly exceed the outer diameter of the sleeve for the convenience of its attachment to the strip. The thickness of the strip is at least 6 mm, the structure will be load-bearing, so the material must provide sufficient rigidity. The carrier, in addition to the strip with the bushing, includes a second perpendicular section with two tubular guides symmetrically located relative to the middle of this element. Cylindrical push rods will go inside the tubular guides. The diameters of the bars and guides must be selected in such a way that the bars inside the nozzles are free to move, but without appreciable backlash.

The rods are inserted at one end into the branch pipe, the other ends are attached to the support of the second roller. The support of the second roller is a U-shaped frame made from the same strip. The parallel sides of this frame are lugs into which the roller axle is inserted. The length of the lugs must exceed the radius of the roller in order to allow it to rotate freely on the axle. The length of the middle section of the frame should also be somewhat greater than the length of the roller plus the thickness of the strip, so as not to interfere with the rotational movement of the roller. The carrier and the frame of the rear roller are connected to each other by means of a pair of “guide pipes - rods” and spiral-type springs installed so as to squeeze the carrier from the frame, thereby providing tension to the belt abrasive. The length of the bar is selected so that when the springs are fully extended, the bar does not jump out of the guide pipes, and there remains a free section of the bar 10–15 mm long.

Tension control

This mechanism should be controlled with the help of a lever, which, by compressing the springs, will tighten the frame and carrier. When the lever is released, the springs, unclenching the frame and carrier, will stretch the installed tape. In order to install such a lever, we provide a hole between the nozzles through which a short traction chain element will freely move, attached with one end in the middle between the bars on the frame, and with the other end on the lever, by pulling which we compress the springs. The chain pull is attached in the middle of the lever, which with its free end extends beyond the mechanism, and the second end is attached to a bolt (screw), which is the axis of rotation of the lever and is installed on the base of the bottom plate. The length of the free end of the mechanism control lever is determined in place, so that the device is easy to use, and at the same time the lever does not interfere, clinging to objects from the side.

And the linear dimensions of the components that make up this mechanism, as well as the overall dimensions of the entire mechanism, are determined by the length of the applied tape abrasive element. So, in fact, it is accepted in any models of this type of grinders.

bottom plate

This detail is necessary in order for the working part of the abrasive to move along flat surface when processing flat ground surfaces. The material for its manufacture will also be useful plate of of stainless steel sufficient thickness (approximately 5-6 mm). The basis for fastening this plate should be another plate (of ordinary steel), which is fixedly (by welding) attached to the carrier in such a way that the bottom plate adjacent to it (the one made of aluminum or stainless steel) together with the lower points of the rollers form an even horizontal plane. The front and back face of the bottom plate must be cleaned so that the abrasive material is not damaged when moving along it. To do this, they are ground to the maximum possible rounded state from the ends.

The plates are fixed to each other by means of the use of countersunk screws that are completely immersed inside the outer element. And in the base it will be necessary to provide for the presence of threaded holes. To do this, we recommend making the base of a sufficiently thick material (minimum 6 mm). The outer plate after fastening with screws must be ground and even polished so that its condition is perfectly smooth. fasteners two is enough, but if there is a desire, more can be provided. And, of course, you must not forget to provide a screw for fastening the control lever for the abrasive belt installation mechanism.

Grinding machine drive

A roller with an axle of a cantilever type, located on the carrier, is our leader. Therefore, it is necessary to provide a driving device for it. If for some reason you have in your arsenal all the necessary gear elements of a suitable size for this purpose, then it will be great if you use it. Having fixed the gear wheel on the axis of the front roller, and the gear on the output shaft of the angle grinder. But it is, so to speak, special case and rarely seen. Firstly, you need to have a set of such parts, secondly, provide a protective cover for gearing, and thirdly, take care of lubrication and other working moments.

It is much easier to build a belt drive as a drive mechanism. The drive belt can come from an old belt sander, from an old overlocker, from any other tool in which such a transmission is provided. If so old tool available, then you can use not only the flexible element, but also the pulleys, adapting them to your grinder. The driven wheel is fixed on the axis of the front roller, with the necessary alignment of both rotation bodies.

Well, the drive pulley must be installed on the grinder spindle. The ideal option installation, there will be a “left” thread in this pulley, similar to the external thread available on the output shaft of the grinder. If there is no technical possibility to cut it, then you can use the flats, recesses under wrench on the spindle at the grinder. Usually, a support element is installed on these recesses under cutting tool. It's easy to remove and the flats on the spindle can be machined into the lugs on your drive pulley.

Drive Mounting Tools

We agreed in advance that our grinder will be driven by an angle grinder, so you will need to provide a base for it to mount. Unfortunately, general recommendations we cannot provide for all installation cases, since, in each specific case, there may be different models of angle grinders, different size And different type. Therefore, here you will have to independently provide the necessary fasteners in order to withstand the required level of belt tension and the desired center distance between the pulleys. The only recommendation that may be relevant here and have a universal character is the recommendation to use the threaded holes on the body of the grinder (under the front handle) to install the tool. There are at least two such holes on any model. And it happens that there are as many as three of them, and this can greatly facilitate your task.

Tension mechanism for abrasive

For different models of belt grinders, this additional tension mechanism may have different design. IN different models additional belt tension is achieved in different ways by moving the drive roller. We will recommend a simpler modification of this device. A pusher must be provided on the frame with the driven roller screw type for the roller axle. To do this, you need to expand one of the holes on the eyes, making it from a round oval. And on the same eye, weld a nut into which the threaded pusher will be screwed. The pusher, moving within the threaded nut, abuts against the axis of the roller and pushes the axis together with the roller, pulling the abrasive belt, providing desired level tension. It is necessary to equip with such a pusher the eye in which there will be an end of the axis that does not have a threaded element.

Grinder from grinder, video

forgemika.com

Angle grinder - homemade fixtures

Angle grinder, she is a grinder - indispensable tool in the arsenal of any owner, used for cutting, grinding and polishing metal and wood. You can significantly expand the functionality of this tool using homemade devices which we will discuss in this article.

Bulgarian

The publication will consider a home-made frame for the grinder, which makes it possible to turn the angle grinder into a full-fledged cutting machine from a grinder, as well as other simple designs that can be made at home.

We modernize the grinder with our own hands - we make a cutting machine

The key advantage of an angle grinder is its mobility - it is a compact tool with an extremely wide range of applications. However, it also has disadvantages, among which are difficulties in processing loose parts, during cutting of which strong vibration appears (can cause destruction abrasive disc at high speed) and the difficulty of meeting the required dimensions of the workpieces when cutting several structures of identical length.

The above disadvantages do not appear when the angle grinder is equipped with a cutting machine, which significantly increases the convenience of cutting both wood and metal. The manufacturer of such a machine for a grinder can be done independently, you will need:

  • profile square pipe 40*40 and 20*20 mm;
  • rectangular profile 40*20;
  • metal corner 32 mm;
  • bearings with a diameter of 32 mm;
  • studs M12;

Assembled homemade machine for a grinder it is a square frame made of a 40 * 40 mm profile, reinforced with cross bars. A rocker arm is fixed on the frame - a mechanism holding the angle grinder, which allows vertical plane change the position of the tool.

A homemade stand for a grinder is made according to the following algorithm:


The resulting homemade frame for the grinder is quite simple to operate. You need to install the angle grinder in the seat, position yourself to the right of the tool, put the workpiece on the supporting frame and right hand lower the adjusting lever. The cut itself is made in the space between the transverse jumpers of the frame.

Circular saw from grinder

Make from angle grinder circular saw even easier than a cut-off machine, since there is no need to do a lot of welding work. You will need the following materials:

  • old table;
  • metal corner;
  • construction clamps or corner;
  • screws, nuts.

Circular machine from angle grinder

We note right away that a low-speed angle grinder is needed here (within 4-5 thousand rpm) or with speed control, since units with high speeds are not suitable for cutting wood - due to rotation, the workpiece will be torn off from circular saw which endangers the machine operator. For sawing wood, it makes sense to use an angle grinder with a disc with a diameter of 150 or 180 mm.


You can make a very convenient, manual belt grinder from a grinder with your own hands. With the help of such a tool it is good to sharpen an ax, knives, etc. Treat the surface at any angle, giving it a flat plane. In general, those who work with iron or wood will appreciate this mini machine.
Sharpening the cutting edge of the ax:


With such sharpening, the corner will not float away.


How to make a belt grinder from a grinder

The mount for the girth of the grinder will be made of a piece of thick steel, about 10 mm thick. We drill a hole for the neck of the angle grinder.


We cut a wide slot.


We cut the mount with a grinder.


Next, we clean and grind so that everything has a beautiful and safe appearance.


We drill a hole from the legs of the clamping device.


Then we cut the thread in the wide side.


As a result, this mount can be easily put on the grinder and clamped so that everything is held tightly.


Trying on.


Now you need to make a roller that will rotate the sandpaper tape. We take a chipboard and, using nozzles of large diameters, we cut round pieces. To get a wide round roller, glue them together.
Then pen drill drill a hole in all of them.


Then we clamp it in a vise and with a triangular file we make an internal hole for the hexagon.


Like this.


We take a wide nut and make notches on the planes with a file.


They are needed to keep the nut in the tree better.


We breed a two-component epoxy adhesive and glue the knurled nut into a wooden roller.


After the glue dries, we clamp the roller into the lathe.


We sew under an ellipse. This is necessary so that the tape does not fly off. Then sand with sandpaper until smooth.


It's time for the second video. It is made of three bearings pressed on vl.


Let's make two such ears.


Let's dress on the edges of the protruding shaft.


Let's make a plate. The result is a U-shaped part holding the roller.


So that the shaft does not fly out, we fix it by welding


Now let's make a frame. It will take two steel pipe different diameters so that one fits into the other.
To the pipe larger diameter a flat pad is welded on. It is needed in order to press on the tape during grinding.


We weld a roller from bearings to a thin pipe.


We take a ring of sandpaper (sold in construction stores), insert the pipe into the pipe and estimate approximate size the entire fixture.


We saw off the long ends of the pipes. We make a wide groove in a thin pipe, and a hole in a thick one.


Weld a nut to the hole.


To the ring mount - a piece from the pipe.