Making an attic: stages of construction. Beautiful and comfortable attic: design and calculations Build a house with an attic with your own hands

Using all possible space, giving the house originality and significantly reducing heat loss through the roof - these are the tasks that the attic solves. If there is a certain margin of safety at the foundation, in this way you can turn cottage in two-level. Another attractive thing is that you can build an attic roof with your own hands even without special construction skills. It is important not to make a mistake with the choice of materials and do everything according to the rules.

Windows on a regular floor are located in the walls. In attics there are no or almost no walls. They are replaced by a roof. That’s why windows are made special: they not only must let in sufficient light, but also withstand wind and snow loads, which are much greater on the roof than on the walls.

Dormer windows

When planning an attic, you should take into account the recommendations of SNiP. They recommend making the window area no less than 10% of the floor area. So if the attic is divided into several rooms, each should have a window.

Of all the methods shown in the photo for installing skylights with an attic, the easiest to implement is inclined installation. In this case, it is necessary to ensure the proper degree of waterproofing of the junction, and also to use special models with reinforced frames and reinforced glass - the load on the surface can be significant.

Advantages of a sloping roof window:

• more light, less sharp boundaries of light and shadow;
• the roof surface remains flat, its relief is not complicated;
• relatively easy installation.

When planning such a window, it is necessary to remember that its area increases with increasing angle of inclination. At what height is it more convenient to install such a window and how its height increases in centimeters depending on the inclination, look at the photo.

The steeper the slope relative to the floor, the smaller the window height should be.

The width of the window frame should be 4-6 cm less than the pitch between the rafters. Then it can be easily installed without disturbing the structure of the frame. If the window is wider, it is necessary to make a reinforced beam above it and calculate the load.

If you need to have a larger window, it is easier to place two narrow ones side by side. They look no worse than one big one, and there will be fewer problems.

When installing a dormer window, the roof geometry becomes more complicated: a valley appears on top and on the sides. Because of this, the rafter system becomes more complex both during planning and during assembly. The complexity of installation also increases roofing. All valleys are the places where leaks are most likely to occur. Therefore, everything needs to be done very carefully. In regions with a lot of snow, it is advisable to install snow guards over such windows so that they are not blown away in the event of a sudden meltdown.

Installation of a vertical dormer window in an attic roof

The advantage of such a window: you can stand near it full height. But they let in less light, the terrain becomes more complex and the roof becomes more problematic.

A recessed window is usually used if there is access to a balcony through it. In other cases, this method of arrangement is not the best option: little light gets in, the shadows turn out to be very deep, which is tiring for the eye, the geometry also becomes more complex, although not to the same extent as in the previous version.

The easiest way is to make a window at the end of the attic. In this case, a reinforced frame or reinforced glass is not needed. Just high-quality glass is quite enough. This option is most often seen on country attics: This is the most inexpensive option that can easily be done with your own hands.

Rafter system

At self-construction In private houses with an attic, a broken roof is usually chosen. It allows you to get a room of significant area, larger than under a gable.

With the same width of the base (of the house), the attic space under a sloping roof is larger than under a regular gable roof. The rafter system becomes more complex, but two pitched roof with an attic under a sloping roof is still more popular

The design of the sloping mansard roof is such that the overhangs can be lowered quite low, giving the house interesting view. But the long overhang of the roof serves not only a decorative role. They also cover the upper part of the wall from precipitation and divert the bulk of the water away from the foundation. Although when planning you need to keep in mind that in strong winds they increase windage. Because of this, it is necessary to use more powerful boards and beams. Therefore, the size of the roof overhang is chosen based on several considerations, the main one of which is weather conditions.

Tilt angle

Depends on roofing material, but most of all - from the region and weather conditions. The classic version is shown in the figure: the lower slopes in relation to the plane of the attic floor are inclined by 60°, the upper slopes by 30°. Based on these data and the parameters of your building, you can calculate all lengths. Just take into account that according to SNiP, the ceiling height in the attic cannot be less than 2 m. Then, by definition, this is an attic. A person will feel comfortable if the ceiling is raised to a height of at least 2.2-2.3 m. Based on this, according to the rules of geometry, calculate the required lengths.

At classic version load from precipitation on side surfaces may not be taken into account. Precipitation can only be retained on the upper part, the angle of inclination of which is less than 45°.

In general, the inclination of the side surfaces usually varies between 45° and up to 80°. The steeper the slope, the greater the windage it has, this must be taken into account: in regions with strong winds it is better to make flatter roofs. Then wind loads will be perceived much better.

Types of rafter systems for sloping roofs

The design of a sloping mansard roof is one of the options rafter system(The most common)

To make the frame of a sloping roof with your own hands, pine lumber is most often used, grade no lower than 2. The choice of cross-section of timber and boards depends on the size of the roof, the selected roofing covering (its weight), wind and snow loads in the region, and the pitch of rafter installation. All these parameters are taken into account in the calculation. The methodology is prescribed in SNiP 2.08.01-89 and TKP 45-5.05-146-2009.

One of the options for constructing a frame with hanging rafters

The figure above shows a drawing of a frame with hanging rafters. It can only be implemented if the base of the upper triangle is no more than 4.5 meters (in this case, this is the width attic room). If more, you will have to make layered rafters, which should rest on the load-bearing wall in the middle (the attic will be divided into two parts by a row of beams).

Another version of the upper part is shown in the photo below (the picture is clickable). In this case, the side rafters are reinforced with struts. They significantly increase the rigidity of the system.

There is a second way to achieve a similar effect - to establish contractions - in the figure they are only outlined with barely visible lines. The length of the side rafter leg is divided by three, and contractions are established in these places. They will be needed if the roof covering will have a significant weight.

Option for installing a sloping roof truss system - with struts that increase the rigidity of the system

For a building that is small in size, the roof frame can be generally simple: at the top there are two hanging rafter legs, tightening, floor beams, racks and side rafters (pictured below).

Construction of a rafter system for a broken mansard roof for small house

How to calculate a sloping roof

The attic sloping roof of a small house (no more than 6-7 meters wide) has been built so many times that, based on experience, we can say what materials should be used. Many parameters are dependent on other materials. For example, the installation step of the rafters is tied to the parameters of the insulation. To ensure that there is as little waste as possible during insulation and installation is simpler, it is necessary that the distance from one rack to another be slightly less than the width of the insulation (20-30 mm). So, if you are going to use mineral wool, its width is 60 cm. Then the racks need to be installed so that the clearance between two adjacent ones is 57-58 cm and no more.

The width of the board for the rafter leg is again determined based on the insulation. For central Russia required thickness basalt wool is 200-250 mm. That's not all. In order for the thermal insulation to dry, a ventilation gap of 20-30 mm is required (without it, condensation will gradually rot the wood and render the mineral wool unusable). In total, it turns out that the minimum width of the rafter leg should be 230 mm. The thickness of the board is at least 50 mm. This is in regions with light winds and not very heavy snowfalls. To summarize, for all rafters - ridge and side - a board of 230 * 50 mm is required.

If lumber with such characteristics turns out to be too expensive, it will be possible to do the insulation in two directions: partly along the rafters, partly, filling the sheathing, across. You can lay a minimum of 100 mm of basalt wool, therefore you can take a standard board 50*150 mm and leave a 50 mm ventilation gap, or order a non-standard 130*50 mm. It's up to you to see which is more profitable for the money.

For racks and beams, it is better to take a beam of at least 80 * 80 mm, better - 100 * 100 mm. Especially in areas with difficult weather conditions - heavy snowfalls or strong winds.

Order a more accurate calculation from specialists. This is a long process consisting of collecting loads from the roofing material, the structural elements themselves, wind and snow loads. After which, according to a certain formula, elements are selected. More detailed information For information on how the calculation is carried out, see the following video.

Do-it-yourself mansard roof: installation procedure

The installation of a Mauerlat on attic roofs is no different from standard version. If or logs, you can use the upper crown as a mauerlat. It is only pre-treated with impregnation with high protective properties.

If the wall is made of foam blocks, a reinforced monolithic belt. On brick wall or made of shell rock or other similar materials, the construction of such a belt is not necessary. Waterproofing is laid in two layers on the wall, and on top is a timber treated with an antiseptic - 150 * 150 mm or a log. It is secured with embedded studs.

When assembling all elements, long nails are used - at least 150 mm long. In the most critical places, it is better to connect three or more elements using bolts or studs with double-sided threads. It is advisable to strengthen all joints with steel plates or corners.

First way

Installation of attic roof rafters is done in two ways. First: they assemble the parts on the ground, then in finished form lift up. There, the outer structures, which will become pediments, are put up first. They are placed vertically and secured. It is often more convenient to secure them with long bars nailed to the wall (temporary). The following are inserted into the prepared recesses in the Mauerlat (they are made with the required step): assembled structures. They are positioned strictly vertically and carefully secured. If necessary, additional temporary spacers are installed to fix them in the desired position. Side beams are installed.

How to build a sloping roof in this way and assemble the nodes, see the video below.

Second way

The second method - the construction of a sloping roof is carried out sequentially by assembling elements directly on site. This method is more convenient if the structure is large and when assembled it can only be lifted using special equipment (crane).

First, the floor beams are laid. Stands and ties are attached to them, and temporary spacers are installed to hold them in the vertical direction. Next, the upper and side rafter legs are assembled, and the tie rods and jibs are installed.

During installation, the following sequence of actions is observed: first, the outermost elements are installed and adjusted to the desired position, and securely fastened. If necessary, use temporary spacers. A fishing line, rope, and cord are stretched between them, which will serve as a guide for the installation of all subsequent elements. This simple move allows you to get the ideal geometry (don’t forget to check the slope angle, verticality or horizontality).

On top of the racks, tie-downs are attached - bars, to which the side rafters are then fixed and onto which the tie-down of the upper triangle is installed. The ties are secured using metal corners. Since the beams are long, they sag. This is later eliminated - after installing the upper rafter legs - with the help of vertical beams of fixed or adjustable height. And temporarily they can be supported with racks (so as not to pull the entire system).

To make it easier to bear desired angle When installing the side rafter legs, templates are made according to which cuts are made. But since the geometry of buildings built with your own hands is rarely ideal, adjustments may be necessary. To check the resulting angle of inclination, another template is knocked down from several boards, which is used to check the correct installation.

If the standard length of lumber - 6 meters - is not enough, either order the required length (expensive) or increase it. When building up, two boards measuring at least 0.6 meters (30 cm on each side of the joint) are nailed to the joint. They are nailed on both sides or bolts are used.

A reliable way to build rafters. The length of the “patch” is at least 60 cm

After installing the side rafters, all that remains is to install the top ones. A template is also made for them, pre-cut on the ground, and installed on top.

The top part can be made in different ways. Its structure depends on the width of the base. How to make it, look at the photo below.

Since the structure of the attic sloping roof does not provide for the presence of a ridge, a beam is placed in the middle to tighten it, to which the slopes are attached, fixing the triangle in the required position.

Nodes and their drawings

When installing a rafter system, questions may arise regarding the assembly of nodes—the intersections and connections of several structural elements. In the photo you see drawings of key connections.

The second option for connecting the side layered rafters and the upper triangle. Bolts are used for more secure fastening.

How to make a do-it-yourself fastening of the upper tee and rafter leg on an attic roof

Methods for attaching rafter legs to the mauerlat or, as in this case, to the side beam are shown in the figure below. To make it easier to mount a heavy element, a thrust board (bar) is nailed to the bottom of the rafter, which limits its movement: the board rests against the edge and does not allow it to sink lower.

Mansard is the roof under which the living rooms. The shape of the attic roof can be different, but most often the attic is equipped under a gable roof. Most rational decision, which allows you to get the maximum usable area of ​​a residential attic, is a mansard roof with a broken slope line.

The stages of building a mansard roof with your own hands are in many ways similar to the construction of a regular roof, as are the names of the elements that make up its frame. These include:

• Mauerlat - a support beam that transfers the load from the rafters to the walls of the building;
• Floor beams - boards that form the attic floor and the ceiling of the lower floor;
• Racks - vertical supports that support the rafter system;
• Purlins – horizontal supports for rafters;
• Crossbars are transverse horizontal elements that tighten the roof slopes together, otherwise they are called puffs;
• Rafters - boards that form the main contour of the roof;
• Suspension - a suspended rack that supports the tightening and redistributes the load between the rafters;
• Lathing - boards or sheets of plywood designed for laying roofing on top of them and transferring the load to the rafter system;
• Rabs are boards fixed along the axis at the bottom of the rafters and designed to form a roof overhang.

The cross-section of roofing elements is determined using calculation; the article presents the most commonly used materials in private construction.

Construction of a sloping mansard roof and its differences

As already mentioned, a roof with broken slopes is somewhat different from a simple one gable roof. The difference lies in the shape of the opposite slopes: they are not a straight line, but consist of two slopes connected at an obtuse angle. The roof can be either symmetrical or have different shape opposite slopes - it depends on the project.

Thanks to the broken shape, the usable volume of the attic space significantly increases. The lower part of the rafters is usually installed at an angle of about 60 degrees to the horizontal, and the support posts supporting these rafters act as a frame interior walls. The upper part of the rafters is most often installed at a slight angle, from 15 to 45 degrees - this allows you to save materials, but maintain the functionality of the roof and its resistance to snow loads.

Vertical posts resting on floor beams, purlins and tie rods connecting them form a parallelepiped that limits inner dimensions attics. To give the structure additional rigidity, struts are installed between the floor beams and the lower rafters. After installing the upper rafters, hanging supports - headstocks - are installed to strengthen the truss and eliminate sagging of the crossbars. To further strengthen the lower rafters, they are pulled together with the racks using contractions. The elements are fastened using nails and bolts or studs.

Calculation of the dimensions of the attic roof

The main condition for a comfortable attic installation is the ceiling height - it should not be lower than 2.5 meters. To ensure such a height of the room, the break line of the attic roof must be at a height of at least 2.8 meters, taking into account the thickness of the insulation layer and internal lining attic, as well as the thickness of the finished floors.

Before you start purchasing materials and building a roof, you need to draw detailed drawing, which will indicate dimensions houses, slope line and attic height.

Drawing - dimensions of the attic roof

Technology for constructing a sloping mansard roof

1. Install a Mauerlat around the perimeter of the house. IN wooden buildings The mauerlat is the top beam or log. In stone - brick or block - buildings, the mauerlat beams are attached to studs or anchors, fixed in the walls during laying at a distance of no more than 2 meters. The mauerlat is leveled along the inner plane of the wall, and the remaining outside wall is later covered with decorative masonry. Mauerlat timber made of dry wood coniferous species usually has a cross-section of 100 or 150 mm. Sawing off timber required length, straighten the anchor pins if necessary and place the timber on top of them. Tapping lightly with a hammer. Indentations from the studs remain on the timber; a hole of the required diameter is drilled along them. You can also mark the timber using a tape measure, but the likelihood of error in this case is higher. Placed on the wall roll waterproofing, you can use regular roofing felt in two layers. The Mauerlat is put on the studs and the nuts are tightened.

   

2. For floor beams, coniferous timber with a section of 100x200 mm is usually used. The floor beams are placed either on top of the mauerlat, extending 0.3-0.5 meters beyond the plane of the walls, or in specially designed pockets in the masonry. In the first case, the beams are secured using corners and self-tapping screws. To make the ceilings even, the beams are laid in strict sequence: first, the outermost ones in level, then, by pulling the string, the intermediate ones are aligned along them. The pitch of floor beams is usually from 50 to 100 cm, but the most convenient is a step of 60 cm, which allows you to lay insulation boards without trimming. To level the height of the beams, they are propped up or linings from the board are used. If the beams are placed in special pockets in the masonry, their ends must be processed coating waterproofing and wrapped with roofing felt. Align them in the same way.
3. Racks are installed on the outer floor beams. The outer racks are made of 100x150 mm timber; the height and installation line of the racks are determined according to a previously prepared drawing. The racks are leveled using a level and plumb line and temporarily secured with jibs in perpendicular directions - along and across the axis of the roof. This will allow you to install the racks without deviation in any direction. The jibs are made from any board and nailed. A string is pulled between the outer drains and the remaining racks are placed along it with a pitch equal to the pitch of the floor beams, that is, on each beam. All racks are secured in the same way as the outer ones. You should end up with two rows of posts of the same height, running parallel to each other.

   

4. Purlins from 50x150 mm boards are laid and secured on the racks, the purlins are secured to 150 mm nails and to corners using self-tapping screws. Place crossbars made of 50x200 mm boards on the purlins with the narrow side down - this will increase their rigidity. Since there will be no load on the crossbars during operation, such a section of the board is quite sufficient; however, in order to prevent their deflection and increase reliability during the installation process, when installing the crossbars, temporary supports made of boards no thinner than 25 mm are placed under them. The top of the crossbar is fastened with one or two boards - also temporarily, until the rafters are installed. In this case, the boards should not be placed in the middle of the tightening - there they will interfere with further installation, but retreating about 30 cm. After installing the racks, purlins and crossbars, you get a rigid structure that limits interior spaces attics. To increase its strength, it is subsequently secured with struts and contractions.
5. Installed from 50x150 mm boards. First, a template is made from a 25x150 mm board - it is easier and faster to process. A board of the required length is applied to the upper purlin, the shape of the cut is drawn directly on the board and it is cut out. Apply the template to the purlin in the places where the rafters are installed, and if it matches everywhere, then the upper part of all rafters can be made according to the template. The lower part, resting on the mauerlat next to the floor beams, is cut out in place each time. The rafters are secured using corners and self-tapping screws and nails.

   

6. To make the upper rafters, you need to mark the center of the roof. This can be done using a temporary stand nailed to the Mauerlat and an extreme tie from the end of the roof so that one edge of the board runs along the center line of the roof. The rafters are aligned along this edge. Next, prepare a template from a 25x150 mm board, placing it at the edge of the installed board on the right level and to the purlin on which the lower rafters rest. Mark the upper and lower cuts and cut out the template. Apply it alternately to both sides of the roof, checking how accurately its center is marked. If the rows of racks are made in parallel, then there should be no problems with installing the upper rafters - they will all have the same size.
7. Perform according to the template required amount rafter legs. The rafters are installed on purlins and connected at the top using overhead metal plates or cutting boards with self-tapping screws. In the purlin, the rafters rest on the notches and are secured to the corners. In order for the rafters to stand straight, they are secured using struts, installed with the lower end on the ties. This is how all the rafters are placed. Attach hanging racks - pieces of board 25x150 mm. The upper edge of the board is fixed at the junction of the rafters, the lower edge - to the tie.
8. Place struts under the lower rafters from a 50x150 mm board, resting them with the lower oblique cut against the floor beam and securing them to the corners, and attach the upper edge to the side of the rafter leg, nail it to one or two nails, and then drill through hole and secure it to a bolt or stud. After installing the lower struts, remove all temporary supports and posts.
9. Sew up the gables, leaving door and window openings. If the floor beams are laid in wall pockets, fillies are attached to the lower rafters - boards that continue the line of the rafters and form the roof overhang. When laying floors on top of the mauerlat, the beams already protrude to the required distance, and there is no need for fillers.
10. , corresponding to the type of roofing - continuous or sparse. Waterproofing is placed on the sheathing and installation of the roof covering, for example, begins.

A broken attic roof usually does not need insulation - only the walls and ceiling of the attic are insulated. The air space created under the rafters ensures good ventilation of the attic, reduces heating of the attic rooms in the summer and provides additional thermal insulation in the winter. Therefore, when covering the gables, it is important to leave ventilation windows in the upper part of the roof, above the ceilings attic floor.

Video - instructions for constructing an attic roof

In the modern world, the effective use of every square meter of living space is quite understandable, which is why many people who want to acquire their own private home plan to build an attic at the design stage. Also, do-it-yourself renovation enthusiasts often convert an old attic into an attic floor or attach an additional structure to an old house.

So that the attic, built with your own hands, turns out to be reliable and does not place unnecessary loads on load-bearing walls buildings or foundation, you need to be aware of all the specifics design features add-ons this type. Next, we will try to understand the types of attic floors, the specifics of its construction, examples of photos, structures of this type, as well as the main stages of how to make an attic.

Main types of attic structures

The construction of an attic, as in principle, any other construction with your own hands, begins with choosing the type of structure for this room that is most suitable for the main building. At the same time, the attic may differ structurally according to the type of roof: single-pitch, double-pitch or sloping roof . If we talk about appearance attic structure, then it directly depends on the materials used during its construction. At the same time, depending on the design features of the main structure, the following types of attic spaces can be erected:

Features of the attic space

Every person who is faced with the construction of houses knows that the main building is placed on a foundation, which is calculated based on the mass of the structure. If the attic was included in the overall project, then the additional load from it is already included in the foundation parameters. In such a situation, an additional floor can be erected from any available material.

However, if this was not done, that is, the construction of the attic occurs after the construction of the main building, then it is necessary to calculate the additional load on the load-bearing structure of the room and the foundation. This is necessary so that the mass of the attic floor does not damage the building. Therefore, to construct a room of this type, lightweight building materials should be used: wood, aerated concrete or sip panels.

You can build an attic with your own hands from various building materials , but if you look at it, then, in fact, such a superstructure is nothing more than a pitched roof resting on load-bearing walls. Of course, each attic floor system is very different depending on the design features of its construction, but in general it consists of the following standard elements:

I would like to note that according to the standards prescribed in SNiP, the minimum distance from the floor surface to the highest part of the ceiling structure must be at least 250 cm. If the height parameters do not correspond, then such a room is considered an attic.

How to build an attic - construction technology

The most important thing when building an attic floor with your own hands is rationally provided insulation, ventilation and compliance with all technological processes taking into account the drawn up floor plan. In this case, all wooden parts of the structure must processed by means, protecting them from moisture and fire. In order for the attic floor to stand for many years, you must adhere to all the rules and conditions for its construction:

Step-by-step instructions for building an attic with your own hands

Because of technological features attic design; its construction with one’s own hands is accompanied by certain difficulties. When drawing up a drawing of such a superstructure, it is necessary to make calculations take into account all possible loads, the angle of the roof slope and the permissible weight of the room. In this case, all stages of work on the construction of the attic floor will occur in accordance with the plan.

Features of an attic extension to an old building

If an attic was planned, the construction of which will take place on a building of an old structure in order to obtain additional living space, then it would be advisable to dismantle the old roof. Also, during the construction of a new roofing system, it is necessary to correctly calculate the load on the load-bearing walls and foundation of the house. It is important that the load is distributed evenly, and the walls are additionally strengthened.

It is also necessary to understand that the ceiling of the old building acts as the ceiling of the lower floor and the floor surface of the attic. Therefore, it must be taken into account that in the resulting interfloor space there may be warm and humid currents, which can lead to the formation of condensation and, as a result, fungus and rot.

After the preparation stage has been completed, construction of the floor allocated for the attic begins. During the construction process, it is important to strictly adhere to the design plan for the construction of the walls and roof of the room. Any deviation from the project may entail uneven load distribution, violation of the geometry of the attic structure and, as a consequence, destruction of the foundation of the building.

You can use the attic space more rationally if you arrange living rooms there, which are called an attic.

The attic floor can occupy the entire area of ​​the house or only part of it (or garage). Sometimes the attic floor serves as a replacement for the second floor.

What is an attic floor?

To put it simply - living room(s) in the attic (i.e. an attic-type room)

According to construction terminology, an attic (or attic floor) is a living space located on the top floor of a house with an attic roof (i.e., the attic facade is partially or completely limited by the roof surfaces).

The difference between the attic and the second floor - comparative characteristics

If you try to compare which is better, the attic or the second floor, you will get something like the following picture.

However, it is worth noting that there are cases when it is impossible to build an attic floor. For example:

• load-bearing walls and foundation may not withstand additional load;

• the walls are made of porous materials that can collapse.

• small house dimensions. With a mandatory height of 2.3 m (according to sanitary standards, SNiP is limited to 1.5 m) it is difficult to equip a full-fledged living space with a small surface area. If the width of the house is less than 5 m.p. There is no point in building an attic. The resulting area will be insignificant, but the costs will be high.

Is the attic considered the second floor?

According to urban planning standards, the addition of an attic does not affect the number of storeys of the building. Those., a private house, in which the second attic floor is arranged, is considered (is) a one-story house.

Documentation regulating the calculation and construction of the second floor of the attic type.

The superstructure of the attic floor is regulated by the provisions of the following regulatory documents:

1. SNiP 2.08.01-89 “Residential buildings”;
2. SNiP II-3-79 “Construction Heat Engineering” (standardizes the arrangement of enclosing structures, including roofs);
3. SNiP 23-05-95 “Natural and artificial lighting”;
4. SNiP 21-01-97 " Fire safety buildings and structures";
5. SNiP 2.01.07-85 “Loads and impacts”;
6. sanitary and hygienic standards.

Types and types of attic floors - dimensions and dimensions of the attic

The height of the attic floor determines its type (type):

• full floor. Vertical wall higher than 1.5 m;
• attic. The height of the smaller wall ranges from 0.8 to 1.5 m;
• semi-attic. The height of the wall is less than 0.8 m.

Depending on the needs of the residents, rooms on the attic floors can be arranged for various functional purposes.

But most often there are bedrooms and lounges.

If the requirement for a building height of 2.3 m is met, then according to the standards prescribed in SNiP, the area of ​​the attic floor cannot be less than 16 sq. m. In this case, the bedroom must be at least 7 square meters.

If the height of the walls of the attic floor exceeds 2.3 m, then the construction of a bedroom of a smaller area is allowed. The justification for reducing the area is the large total cubic capacity (volume) of the room.

Armed with this theory, you can begin to build an attic floor with your own hands. Construction is not a troublesome task if you have detailed step-by-step instructions.

Construction of the attic floor (attic)

Before starting construction, you need to create a project for the attic floor. You can do the project yourself or turn to professionals.

Note that building an attic with your own hands is within the capabilities of anyone. But it is quite difficult to take into account all the determining factors and calculate loads without special knowledge.

First, let's find out what affects the attic project.

Choose appearance mansard roof is quite difficult, because This is influenced by a number of factors:

• visual effect. First of all, take into account subjective feelings. The final choice may fall on another model, but the starting point is here;

• living space. The rafter system of a gable roof “steals” the area and creates “dead” zones, but hip roof allows you to use almost the entire space of the attic superstructure;

• financial opportunities. Shed roof- the cheapest option;

• roofing material. Some types of roofing material can be used if a certain roof slope is maintained. For example, for tiles the angle should be at least 25°, and for PK-100 corrugated sheeting (wave height 100 mm) 3-4° is sufficient;

• general architecture of the building;

• wind and snow load. The snow should slide off the roof;

• condition of load-bearing walls and foundation. The condition of load-bearing walls can be judged after a visual inspection. The presence of cracks indicates a problem. Usage porous material during the construction of a house, it reduces the ability of the wall to withstand the load created by the attic. It is difficult to judge the foundation. But knowing its type and what materials and technology were used in its construction, you can calculate what load it can withstand;

• arrangement of internal communications and ease of connection to them;

• choice of windows. Installation of special roof windows (sloping windows - sliding, turning, sliding) is carried out directly into the rafter part. They are more expensive, but they allow you to provide better ventilation. To install vertical windows you need to build walls or gables. The surface area of ​​light-transmitting structures must be at least 12.5%;

• selection of materials for construction. The cheapest and most popular option for performing the work is to use wood. Technology frame construction quite simple. It is a mistake to think that erecting a wooden attic floor is unacceptable. According to SNiP 21-01-97 use wooden structures during the construction of an attic floor, it is allowed with proper wood processing and a building height of up to 75 m.

• complexity of calculations. During construction pitched roof loads on load-bearing walls are distributed unevenly. Ignoring this fact will lead to subsidence of the walls and destruction of the foundation.

The main shapes of roofs are shown in the figure.

Nuance. The smaller the angle where the roof meets the wall, the more usable area you will have.

Some projects of houses with an attic floor are presented in the photo.

Before starting work, you must have a drawing, sketch, diagram or drawing with all dimensions.

The drawings of houses with an attic presented below will give you an idea of ​​what needs to be put on the diagrams.

Calculation of the area of ​​the attic floor

The ability to use the attic for living space is calculated using the formula

АхВ + 0.7хС

A - total area premises whose height exceeds 2.5 m;

IN- total area of ​​premises, the height of which ranges from 1.1 to 2.5 m;

WITH- the total area of ​​premises, the height of which ranges from 0.8 m to 1.1 m.

0,7 - correction factor. It says that theoretically this area can be used, but with significant restrictions.

Reduce the number of unused square meters It is possible if you raise the walls to a height of more than a meter. This is achieved through the construction of attic walls. The attic walls of the attic floor are a superstructure over the load-bearing walls.

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Construction of the attic floor (attic)

Next we go directly to construction work or for reconstruction (conversion of the attic into an attic floor). For those who want to convert the attic into an attic, they need to dismantle the old covering.

Then the rafter system is installed, for which you will need:

1. log (diameter at least 180 mm) or timber (preferably laminated veneer lumber, dimensions 80x80 or 100x100);
2. board (40x1500) for sheathing;
3. hardware, burnt wire, anchors or fittings. In order to securely fasten all elements;
4. floor beams. The finishing floor will be laid over them;
5. finished staircase to the attic floor. It can be located outside the attic or inside. Outdoor placement creates inconvenience when using it in the cold season and in the rain. The interior steals the usable space of the lower floor. A compromise could be spiral staircase. Even at the most small room a compact folding or retractable ladder is installed.
6. roofing material;
7. protective films;
8. thermal insulation material;
9. material for finishing walls and ceilings.

Attic floor rafter system - device technology

The construction of the rafter system begins with the installation of the Mauerlat, then the rafter legs are assembled and installed. It is easier to collect them on the ground. Installation begins with two opposite legs. Then a rope is stretched between them. It regulates the accuracy of installation.

After installing the frame of the rafter system, the legs are fastened together. That is, the sheathing is filled. The sheathing pitch depends on the type of roofing material.

The process of building an attic floor - video

The frame is ready. A correctly executed roofing cake has the appearance shown in the figure.

Windows on the attic floor

Dormer windows are installed between the rafters. To make the fastening more reliable, horizontal beams made of timber are installed at the location of the window (at the top and bottom of the rafter system).

Insulation of the attic floor

It is necessary to take care of energy saving. The lack of air space created by the attic increases heat loss through the attic roof.

It is not uncommon for a situation when, for one reason or another, a house that until recently seemed quite comfortable becomes cramped, or the dacha needs to be turned into permanent residence, while simultaneously increasing the area. Also, often the need for major reconstruction and expansion arises when purchasing a house with “experience”. You can get an increase in square footage in two ways - by adding a room or building on it. For many, adding a residential attic floor is a more preferable option, since there is no need to additionally fill the foundation, and there is not always enough space on the site for an extension. And among portal craftsmen, the addition of an attic floor is quite popular, and in this article they share the experience gained with those who are just deciding what to do and what to do.

• What is an attic in a house?
• Features of the construction of the attic floor during reconstruction.
• Experience of portal participants.

What is an attic at home?

By definition, an attic is understood as a residential or non-residential space in the attic space. However, in practice, only cold attics remain non-residential, and the attic is residential ( all year round or seasonally) space under an insulated roof of a special configuration. Unlike a full second floor, part of the walls in the attic is formed by roof slopes, which somewhat limits its functionality. Attic floors have always been popular, have not lost it to this day and are unlikely to lose it in the future.

Modern technologies make it possible to organize premises for any purpose in attics, as well as in full second floors - these can be bedrooms, offices, children's or guest rooms. Today it is not a problem to place a full bathroom in the attic if necessary, not to mention a bathroom with a shower. Kitchens in attic rooms are a rather rare phenomenon; they mainly appear in cases where two families live and have a separate entrance from the street.

Perhaps the main condition for a comfortable existence under a roof is a height of 2.5 meters at the central point.

The permissible minimum for an attic floor according to sanitary standards is 2.3 meters, although in practice other sizes are also found.

Features of the attic superstructure

Whether to build an attic is decided based on two factors:

• availability of technical capabilities;
• expediency.

The main question is whether the walls of an old house will withstand the weight of the proposed structure, even if we are talking about the lightest one, frame version. Therefore, the first step is to draw up a plan and make an approximate calculation of the bearing capacity of the walls and foundation. It’s not so much the type that will play a role here. wall material, how much is the condition of the walls. Other log houses with half a century of history are much stronger than those of “youthful” stone buildings.

The feasibility of such a global reconstruction depends on the dimensions of the house - if it is too compact, then residential attic Taking into account the design features, it will turn out to be tiny. If the width of the house is less than five meters, then it is pointless to build on a structure such as an attic floor. However, despite all the restrictions, sometimes a small interesting attic room It’s better than nothing, the main thing is that the walls can hold up and your wallet can handle it.

But even if the walls are strong, the multiply increased load must be evenly distributed, for which an armored belt is poured around the perimeter of the stone base.

When pouring the armored belt, fasteners for the Mauerlat (studs) are immediately placed into it, which will firmly fix the entire structure in place.

Without sufficient insulation, it is impossible to build an attic even for seasonal stay, since without insulation in the summer there will be a steam room in the attic. The attic in a residential building is insulated along the entire perimeter to form a closed loop - ceilings, inclined and vertical walls, pediments. Today, insulation can be anything from typical slabs, rolls and mats to blow-in, fill-in and spray-on. However, regardless of the type, its thickness must be sufficient to ensure the standard thermal resistance coefficient of the wall (tabular data by region).

If we are talking about mineral slab heat insulators, which are used most often, then for most regions 150-200 mm is sufficient. It is more efficient to lay this thickness in several layers with overlapping seams to minimize heat leakage. Since the attic is a heated room, great importance is given to installing a vapor barrier to warm air did not provoke condensation in the insulation or roofing pie.

For the free removal of moisture, which, despite all the barriers, will accumulate between the insulation and the roofing of the attic floor, a ventilation gap of at least 5 cm is required, and ideally a ridge aerator.

The simplest option is a vertical window installed in the gables, but for proper lighting, special ones are also needed. skylights, mounted directly into the roof.

The number of windows is calculated based on the permissible minimum - for every 10 m² of area 1 m² of glass.

If the plans include skylights, then even when assembling the rafter system it is worth calculating the pitch of the rafters according to their dimensions, taking into account the seam.

In most cases, frame and timber attics are built on, since they are lighter, cheaper, and the construction process is faster. Considering that the house is residential, the sooner it is under the roof again after dismantling the old one, the better. If they choose a more capital, stone option, then they give preference to lightweight materials (gas block, foam block, expanded clay concrete).

Experience of portal participants

Major reconstruction of the house of one of our craftsmen with the nickname Soboleff was subjected twice - first from summer cottage it was turned into permanent residence, and then an attic space was added. Comment from our user:

Soboleff

The long-awaited warmth has arrived, and with it the beginning of the realization of a long-standing dream - replacement old roof to the attic. All winter we were busy with calculations, drawing a plan, designing in “ketchup”, saving money. I think this report will be of interest to those who have a house that is not very large in size, quite old and built from what was there. In my case it's my ex summer cuisine, 30 years ago converted into a residential building with an area of ​​about 60 m².

The development of amenities and active changes in the layout in order to increase the level of comfort have been carried out over the past few years.

Walls made of sand-lime brick They were put together somehow, the foundation also touched the technology sideways, so the craftsman decided not to take risks and make a frame superstructure. The height of the building walls is 1200 mm, from the finished floor to the ridge – 3500 mm, gable roof with a corresponding pie, metal tiles as a roofing covering. According to the layout, on the attic floor there are a couple of children's rooms of 16 square meters each, a common corridor, a bathroom above the existing ground floor and a low storage room.

Attic floor, layout.

Dismantling revealed sagging, rotten beams and the deplorable state of the masonry in the upper rows; not only these rows were replaced, but also wooden beams above window openings to the corner.

The perimeter lined with brick was filled with sheathing, reinforcement was laid, pins were inserted to secure the mauerlat, and an armored belt was poured.

In the second place they took out internal partitions to the level of the external walls, laid the floor beams, hemmed the subfloor and began assembling the frame. All wooden materials pre-treated with fire bioprotection.

The role of the jibs to impart rigidity is assigned to the slab sheathing - OSB 3, all joints of the slabs and the frame were foamed. The thickness of the stone wool insulation on the ceiling is 200 mm, on the walls - 150 mm, plus another 50 mm further along the perimeter of the entire facade.

For ventilation, a “cold triangle” was left at the very top. The craftsman applied four overlapping layers of insulation along this flat area of ​​the ceiling. A roofing “pie” according to all the rules – with waterproofing, wind protection and counter-lattice.

A counter-lattice made of 50 mm timber was also placed on the outside walls of the attic space with a pitch under the insulation sheet, the slabs were laid, and the contour was covered with a wind barrier. The slabs were fixed to the house using hangers and plastic disc dowels. On top of the wind protection is a galvanized profile 60x27 mm, creating a ventilation gap and a subsystem for siding.