To increase fertility and improve vegetation processes in plants, the soil in the garden must be fertilized periodically. Most effective root feeding trees, however, to quickly saturate plants with microelements in the summer season, it is more rational to feed the garden using the foliar method (by spraying the crown). We will determine when and with what it is worth fertilizing the plantings for ideal development and fruiting, and also consider the main methods of feeding.

When should you feed your garden?

With the onset of warm days, the plantings begin to gradually wake up. At this moment very important role plays feeding trees in spring. The purpose of this procedure is to activate the growth and development of the garden. With the right flavoring composition, the plants begin to actively bloom and produce new shoots. Actually, the productivity of plantings in the future depends on the quantity and quality of greenery and branches.

Feeding trees in autumn is performed to improve the characteristics of the soil, saturating it with minerals and vital microelements for the plant body. During this period, mineral and complex fertilizers are applied. Only root feeding is used. As the garden begins to shed its leaves, the foliar saturation method is not possible. Feeding trees for the winter excludes the use of nitrogen-containing compounds. Autumn is the ideal time to introduce calcium, potassium and phosphorus into the soil.

Our experienced gardeners will help you select the composition of fertilizers and feed the plants. We will analyze the condition of the soil in each tree trunk circle, carefully examine each plant for a lack of microelements and, having determined the deficiency, we will formulate and apply a flavoring composition.

What to feed the plants?

One of the most popular ways to feed the garden is feeding trees with chicken droppings. This nitrogen fertilizer is applied exclusively during the growing season. They effectively fertilize the soil in the tree trunks of fruit trees (apple trees, pears, plums, cherries, cherries, quince, chaenomeles, persimmons, peach, apricot) in the spring. When working with chicken manure, it is important to remember that undiluted fresh droppings can burn the roots. Therefore, it is better not to overdo it with it.

In order not to injure the plantings, tree fertilizer from chicken droppings should be made as follows:

Place about 1-1.5 kg of dry chicken manure in a 10-liter bucket.
Add about 3-4 liters of water.
Leave for 1-2 days to ferment.
Add water to the bucket until full and move it carefully.

Such spring feeding trees and shrubs will not harm your garden. When purchasing litter, give preference to dry litter. If fresh fertilizer is not stored properly, nitrogen turns into ammonia. It is impossible to determine by eye how high-quality the “fresh” product is. Nitrogen is completely retained in dry chicken droppings.

The second most popular feeding trees with manure or compost. There are also some nuances here. Under no circumstances should fresh manure be applied to the plant, only rotted manure. Unlike chicken manure, no matter how much you dilute fresh manure, it will still turn into an ammonia mixture. It takes about 2-3 years to transform “fresh” fertilizer into high-quality fertilizer. Rotted manure is excellent for apricots, plums, cherries and other stone fruits, fruit trees (apple and pear), as well as coniferous plants(pine trees, spruce trees, cypress trees, junipers, yew trees, thuja trees, spruce trees).

Feeding trees in summer carried out with the aim of saturating the garden with nitrogen and missing microelements. The foliar method is most often used. The leaves absorb flavoring compounds much faster than the roots. Therefore, when a deficiency of certain elements is detected, foliar feeding with special compounds is used.

Fertilizing trees with nitroammophoska is considered the simplest, most accessible and balanced. This complex fertilizer, which combines several important components for feeding trees: nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and sulfur. Each granule contains all four components. However, the balance of microelements remains questionable.

For ideal fertile soils, the use of nitroammophoska - great option get rid of headaches when choosing a complex composition. Regarding other soils (heavy, clayey, deficient in certain substances), it will not be possible to get by with nitroammophos alone. Feeding fruit trees will be effective only in combination with other fertilizers or by adding supplements in the form of missing substances. For deciduous plantings (larches, cedars, birches, maples, acacias, beech, hornbeam, willows, bird cherry, etc.) nitroammofoska can serve as the main top dressing, since you still won’t get a harvest from them. :)

Let us remind you what to choose proper fertilizer Our professionals can help you in your garden. Experienced gardeners will carefully study your plantings and their living conditions. Based on the data obtained, as well as individual characteristics individual plant, we will select the ideal composition. Only in this case will fertilizing coniferous trees or a fruit-bearing garden bring the desired result.

Signs of micronutrient deficiency

If plantings lack certain substances, they begin to “signal” this: leaves fall or turn yellow, shoot growth weakens. If you identify a lack of microelements in time, you can restore the health of the entire planting or individual plants. For this purpose, foliar feeding of fruit trees is used. It will help restore the health of the garden as quickly as possible.

Our gardeners are people who experience sincere love to nature. We wish good health to every element of botany, therefore, we decided to make our contribution to the improvement of your planting. Especially for you, we have created a unique table in which we have included the main symptoms of deficiency of vital microelements. By using it, you will be able to notice the lack of substances in time and select necessary fertilizers for feeding trees in order to normalize the growth and development of plants.

Table of symptoms of deficiency of substances:

Ways to feed trees

To feed the greenery on the site, two methods of applying fertilizers are used:

root(saturation of soil in the tree trunk circle with fertilizers);
foliar(the flavoring composition is applied to the crown).

Root feeding of trees is applied in spring and autumn in order to improve soil characteristics and saturate plants with important elements. Flavoring compounds are gradually absorbed through small shoots of the root system. Absorption occurs over a long period of time (from 5-10 days or longer depending on the depth of laying and the amount of fertilizer).

To quickly saturate the planting with nitrogen and other substances, foliar feeding of trees is used. In just 2-3 days, the leaves completely absorb the substance applied to them.

Feeding the roots

In spring and autumn, root feeding of trees is carried out. Fertilizers are applied to tree trunk circles in one of the following ways:

The application of liquid formulations is carried out by pouring flavoring substances into special grooves artificially created in the trunk circle around the plant (see figure on the right). The more grooves, the more efficient feeding will be.
Solid fertilizers are introduced differently. Removed upper layer soil (about 1-2 cm). Fertilizers are evenly distributed over the entire territory of the tree trunk circle, after which they are covered back with earth.

Winter feeding of trees, or rather, feeding before the onset of cold weather is usually carried out with the help of solid fertilizers. They will gradually penetrate deep into the soil by absorbing melted snow. Liquid formulations are used mainly in spring and summer.

Determine the most effective method Our professional gardeners will help saturate your garden with nutrients and introduce them into the soil. One call to us gives us the opportunity to see how top-level specialists work, as well as get a chance to take a personal master class on the topic: feeding trees after flowering and before, rules for applying fertilizers, specifics of working with garden tools etc. Please note that to obtain real knowledge you are only required to attend garden plot and attentiveness. We work - you enjoy the work and at the same time learn from the pros! :)

Feeding through the crown

Most effective during the hot season foliar feeding of trees. Fertilizers in liquid form are applied over the entire surface of the crown. Essentially, the crown is sprayed with liquid compounds. Through greens, substances are absorbed and absorbed much faster.

Most often, urea is used as the main fertilizer. It not only saturates the plant with nitrogen, but also perfectly destroys many pests. That's why summer feeding trees in August is carried out using diluted karbofos. Essentially, it is a fungicide and an insecticide – two in one, and practically harmless to humans (at low concentrations).

A high concentration of the active substance in water, instead of the expected benefit, can cause harm plants. Therefore, we have compiled a small fertilizer dosage table especially for you.

Congratulations! You have just completed a short course on the topic “Feeding Trees”. Having theoretical basis and armed with tables, it will become easier to increase the fruitfulness and productivity of your planting :)

Good luck in creating a beautiful high-yielding garden!

Feeding trees video

How to care for apple trees, pears, plums, cherries, how to plant fruit seedlings, how and with what to properly fertilize an orchard, how to care for seedlings, how to care for an orchard, when and what fertilizer to apply to apple trees, how to water apple trees.

You will find the answer to all these questions in the article below. This article describes in detail how to care for an orchard.

Last spring you planted fruit seedlings. Of course, in the first summer there was nothing to expect from them normal growth, it’s good that they took root. And this spring, buds have swelled on thin branches and strong young leaves have hatched. So, the seedlings survived the first winter successfully. But for a long time, the new residents of your garden will need increased attention to themselves.
In the first years they only use small area- both above and below ground. Their roots extend laterally a little further than the branches. Gardeners occupy the rest of the space between the rows with vegetable gardens or strawberries.
Another thing is the tree trunk circles themselves: here both soil care and fertilizers are intended directly for the young tree. In other words, in a young garden there should be two systems of fertilizers and soil care: one for inter-row crops, the other for trunk circles.
The area of the trunk circle is determined as follows: in the first year it is approximately one and a half times larger than the circle that can be outlined at the ends of the branches, and then every year it expands in all directions by half a meter. As a rule, in middle lane radius of the circle (distance from the stem to the edge).
Most often, the soil around the tree trunks is kept loose and free from weeds. Twice a year - in spring and autumn - it is carefully dug up (if possible with a pitchfork) to a depth of 10-12 cm at the trunk and 20 cm along the edge of the circle. In the summer, after rains and watering, they are shallowly loosened again. And only at the end of summer, and even then if it is not too dry, do they stop loosening and weeding.
The new trees in your garden need water, and by the way, much more than mature trees. In the first two years after planting, they need to be watered 4-5 times per season, regardless of the rains, unless they are very heavy or prolonged. You need to pour it under each apple tree. In subsequent years, water less often, but twice as much.
And remember: never pour right under the stem; It is best to make a shallow furrow around it for this purpose. But the most important thing, and at the same time the most difficult thing, is to establish its proper nutrition from the first days of a young tree’s life. Let's say that when planting you brought into the planting hole everything that is recommended: 3-4 buckets of humus (or 2-3 buckets of stale manure, or 5-7 buckets of peat); or potassium chloride (standards are given for apple trees on Non-Black Earth soils).
Such doses seem to be sufficient for a tree for several years. But it's not that simple.
There is indeed enough phosphorus and potassium, but all of it is within the pit. As soon as the roots grow beyond its boundaries, they will find themselves in unfertilized and, moreover, unloosened, uncultivated soil, and this will immediately affect the growth of the tree. Your task is to improve the soil not only of today, but also of the future tree trunk circle. And not on the surface, but to the depth of two spade bayonets - then it will be cultivated. And this must be done now, in the first years after planting.
Outside landing pit, further than the ends of the branches, in a wide ring, you need to scatter phosphorus and potassium fertilizers in increased doses: for each square meter. It’s also good to add manure or compost here in normal doses and dig everything up. Next year or as a last resort after a year, all this must be repeated, and then the ring must be dug twice as deep as usual, that is, two bayonets of a shovel. The lower layers of soil, which are now on top, also need to be fertilized in the future.
It is better to do deep digging in the spring rather than in the fall.
You can do it differently. Instead of a ring, also outside the crown, approximately 120 cm from the trunk, 4 trenches are dug, 40 cm deep. They are placed on four sides, but so that they do not close together: there should be 50-75 cm between their ends. The soil removed from the trenches is fertilized in the same way as for planting holes (per unit volume). For example, the length of the trench on one side of the tree is 120 cm, width - 50, depth - 40, therefore, the volume is 0.24 cubic meters. And the volume of all four trenches is approximately a cubic meter, that is, twice as much as the planting hole, and, therefore, twice as much fertilizer will also be needed (we have already mentioned doses for the planting hole).
Fertilizers are mixed with the excavated soil, then the trenches are backfilled (preferably at the same time as watering) and compacted. If the soil is sandy, it is good to make a layer of clay with manure at the bottom of the trench so that the fertilizers are less washed out.
In four years, new trenches will be needed. They must be placed 50-70 cm further and - in relation to the old trenches - diagonally, that is, opposite the gaps. In subsequent years, another row of trenches can be made. In other words, you will place nutrient sources in the path of the growing roots. And even if individual “advanced” roots fall under the shovel, do not be afraid: the tree as a whole will gain immeasurably more from improving the soil.
Besides, in surface layer the soil of the entire tree trunk circle must be supplemented with the usual doses of phosphorus and potassium at least once every 4 years, and.
It is such deep cultivation of the soil that will gradually lead to “the whole garden becoming a continuous planting pit,” as I. V. Michurin advised.
Well, if you can’t do such a thing - after all, it really is a lot of work, - what to do then? You will have to apply fertilizers superficially not once every 3-4 years, but every year - in the hope that phosphorus and potassium, albeit slowly, not immediately, will reach the roots. And the doses should be approximately the same for poor, non-chernozem soils: per 1 sq. meter of trunk circle - 60 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium chloride. And every 2-3 years: (this is the usual dose for surface application).
For cherries and plums, all the figures given here must be reduced by about a quarter: the amount of fertilizer, the depth of digging or trenches, and the timing of cultivation, since the volume of roots in the soil and the lifespan of these trees is less than that of an apple and pear tree.
Nitrogen must be given to trees constantly, as needed, but not in the very first year after planting, because it has been observed that it has a bad effect on root survival. And starting from the second year it is constantly added - either in early spring, or like this: two thirds in the spring, a third in the summer (with fertilizing), at the rate of 6-12 g per 1 sq. meter. During the season, you need to add 20-40 g of ammonium nitrate or 12-25 g of urea, or 30-60 g of ammonium sulfate per square meter of tree trunk circle. Moreover, trees will receive part of their nitrogen from the application (although not annually) of manure, peat or compost. The young tree itself will tell you whether everything is in order with these nutrients: weak growth, pale small leaves “tell” that nitrogen needs to be added. If there are no such signs, don’t.
And finally, let us say again: everything stated above applies only to tree trunk circles. The row spaces in a young garden receive care and fertilizer, if only because other crops grow nearby. However, over time, the tree trunk circles will expand so much that everything will be pushed out of the row spacing. By this time, the soil will have already been enriched so that fertilizers will need to be applied only in maintenance doses, and this is much simpler. Having entered the time of full fruiting, the garden will thank you in full for those efforts that now may seem burdensome.”
V. SHCHERBAKOVA, agronomist.

Do not refuse the courtesy if you liked the advice,
don't forget about rec-mu. Sincerely, Yuri Moskvin.
When using site materials, link to

When caring for a young garden, good development and fruiting of fruit trees cannot be achieved without the systematic use of fertilizers, especially in areas of the non-chernozem belt.

For successful tree growth in young garden, accelerating their entry into the time of fruiting and creating conditions for obtaining high and regular yields in the future is of great importance application of fertilizers. Best results shows the combined application of organic and mineral fertilizers.

The use of organic fertilizers when caring for a young garden

Widely used in skin care young garden must get first organic fertilizers(manure, compost, peat, peat feces and others), which not only provide necessary for trees nutrients, but also improve the structure of the soil, which is destroyed by digging and frequent loosening.

Manure is applied in the fall, when digging up the soil, having previously scattered it evenly on the surface of the tree trunk in an amount of 4-6 kilograms per 1 square meter. This will amount to 15-20 kilograms for one two- to three-year-old tree, 30-40 kilograms for a five- to six-year-old tree, and 50-70 kilograms for a seven-ten-year-old tree.

Good action has an impact on fruit trees also compost. Compost is prepared from household waste in specially constructed heaps. Compost heaps are a must on every household. Tree leaves, fallen pine needles, and tops can be used to prepare compost. vegetable crops, weeds, rotten straw and chaff, soot, house waste, kitchen waste, road dust, etc.

The compost heap is made 1.5-2 meters wide (at the base), 1-1.5 meters high and of arbitrary length (depending on the amount of material). They lay it on a special cleared and compacted area. Tops, house waste and other household waste and weeds when placed in compost heap interlayered with soil. The soil layer should be 5-6 centimeters thick. To ensure that the compost is always moderately moist, it is watered from time to time with water or, even better, with slop or slurry. It is useful to add lime, ground limestone and ash to the compost.

Once or twice a summer (every two to three months), the compost heap is thoroughly shoveled and stacked again. Shovelling speeds up the decomposition of waste. When the compost turns into a homogeneous mass, it can be used as fertilizer. The rates, timing and depth of application of compost are the same as for manure.

“Night gold” (feces) is also a valuable fertilizer when caring for a young garden. It is better to mix it with peat, to prepare the so-called peat feces. For this purpose, take fine, well-decomposed peat, lay it in a layer of 20 centimeters and water it generously with liquid feces. After watering, a second layer of the same thickness is laid on the first layer of peat and also watered, and this is done until the heap reaches a height of 1.5 meters. After this, it is covered with peat and left to decompose.

Peat feces can also be prepared directly in cesspools- restrooms. To do this, peat is poured into the pit every two to three days and mixed with the contents of the pit with a pole. Peat feces is a very strong fertilizer: its application rate is two to three times lower than the rate of manure.

In areas where there is no peat, compost, manure and even ordinary soil are used to prepare fecal fertilizers.

When caring for a young garden, you should also use bird droppings. It is applied at a rate of 100-150 grams per 1 square meter of tree trunk area. But it is better to give this fertilizer in the form of liquid fertilizer in the first half of summer.

A good fertilizer is stove ash, containing potassium, phosphorus and lime. Ash is added at approximately 100-150 grams per square meter (a glass of stove ash weighs about 125 grams). Especially good results the use of ash gives effect on soddy-podzolic soils of the non-chernozem zone, reducing their acidity. In this case, the ash application rates are increased by at least two to three times.

Pond, lake and river waste or decomposed waste from landfills can be used as fertilizer.

The use of mineral fertilizers for caring for a young garden

If there mineral fertilizers, then you need to use them too.

They are divided into nitrogen (ammonium sulfate, ammonium nitrate, montanium nitrate), phosphorus (superphosphate, tomasslag, phosphate rock) and potassium (potassium salt 30 and 40 percent and potassium chloride). Nitrogen mineral fertilizers have a good effect on tree growth in most areas. A complete mineral fertilizer, including nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, works better everywhere.

Mineral fertilizers Apply at the rate of approximately 8-10 grams of the active substance of each type of fertilizer per 1 square meter. For example, ammonium sulfate (ammonium sulfate) contains 20 percent nitrogen. Therefore, 40-50 grams of ammonium sulfate must be added per 1 square meter.

One glass contains from 150 grams (superphosphate, ammonium sulfate) to 250 grams (potassium salt) mineral fertilizers.

The amount of mineral fertilizers that must be applied to one tree, depending on its age and the size of the trunk circle, is given in the table.

Montana nitrate is added by 20 percent, and ammonium nitrate by 40 percent less than ammonium sulfate. Double superphosphate is added twice as much as usual.

Phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, partly nitrogen fertilizers, are applied in the fall, before deep digging. These fertilizers are best applied in granular form. Phosphorus and potassium fertilizers can also be applied in liquid form in patches into wells made with scrap, 30-40 centimeters deep; Wells are made approximately two per 1 square meter.
It is better to apply the bulk of nitrogen fertilizers (about two-thirds) in the spring, during the first spring loosening.

Approximate amount of mineral fertilizers applied to one tree (in grams):

Diameter (width) near the trunk new circle (in meters)	Square near the trunk new circle (in sq. meters)	Ammonium sulfate			Superphosphate			Potassium salt 40 percent
		when fertilizing			when fertilizing			when fertilizing
		weak	average	\|strong	weak	average	strong	weak	average	\|strong
2 3 4 5	3 7 12 20	100 200 400 600	150 300 600 900	200 400 800 1200	150 300 550 850	225 450 800 1300	300 600 1 100 1700	50 100 200 300	75 150 300 450	100 200 400 600

When used together, mineral and organic fertilizers application rates are reduced by half compared to those indicated.
When mixing fertilizers, you must adhere to established rules. It is best to mix them just before adding them to the soil.

Feeding fruit trees caring for a young garden

Great value at at In the course of a young garden, fertilizing of fruit trees is widely used by leading gardeners.

For fertilizing, first of all, you need to use local organic fertilizers.: slurry, urine, fermented solutions of bird and cow droppings, etc. Slurry and animal urine for liquid feeding are diluted with 5 parts of water, and feces and bird droppings with 10-12 parts.

You can also feed fruit trees only with nitrogen or complete mineral fertilizer.

When feeding, mineral fertilizers can be applied in liquid or dry form.. In dry soil, the trunk circles are pre-watered with water before fertilizing. When applying fractionally, the indicated average rate is divided into parts according to the number of fertilizing: each time the corresponding part (half or a third of the rate) is applied. The first feeding is given in the spring, during bud break, the second - two or three weeks after the first, during the intensive growth of shoots (in the central regions - in June), and the third - two to three weeks after the second.

Considering that nitrogen fertilizers, if applied untimely, cause growth retardation, fertilizing with them should be carried out only during spring and the first half of summer or late autumn.

The garden should be fertilized annually on poor soils and once every two to three years on other soils. In the first year after planting, they limit themselves to mulching the tree trunk circles with manure, humus, compost, etc.

Podzolic soils, in addition, should also be limed. Lime or ground limestone is applied once every five to seven years at an average rate of 1.5 kilograms per 1 square meter. The best time applying lime is autumn.

Video: How and with what to fertilize fruit trees correctly

In this video, an expert will tell you how to fertilize fruit trees correctly and with what exactly.

Video: Apple orchard technology

When caring for a young garden, it is necessary to ensure the survival rate of all planted fruit trees, to create conditions for good growth seedlings and building the correct tree crown, as well as ensuring the early entry of trees into the fruiting season.

Every summer resident cares about the health of fruit trees and berry bushes, rejoicing lush flowering plants in the spring and delicious juicy fruits in the summer and autumn. The foundation for a bountiful garden harvest for the next season is laid in the fall. the main task during this period - feed the plants, saturate them with nutrients to help endure the dormant stage and cope with severe winter frosts. Therefore, fertilizing fruit trees in the fall is very important stage garden care.

During the growing season, when fruits ripen on trees and shrubs, plants absorb many nutrients from the soil. First of all, we are talking about nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus, magnesium, calcium and other trace elements. The application of organic and mineral fertilizers replenishes the balance of chemical elements, and also helps improve the soil structure and create favorable conditions for the development of beneficial soil microflora.

What fertilizers are used for autumn feeding of the garden?

The choice of fertilizer depends on the preferences of the summer resident. For example, fans of biological farming try not to use mineral fertilizers on the site, believing that traditional organic matter can completely eliminate soil imbalances and restore the optimal content of microelements in the soil.

Phosphorus. They help strengthen the root system, as well as the accumulation of protein compounds and sugary substances in tree sap.
Potassium. They increase the frost resistance of all crops and lead to the removal of excess liquid from plant tissues.
Wood ash or plant ash. It structures the soil, prevents soil acidification, and enriches the soil mixture with all the necessary microelements.
Organic. They increase the percentage of humus in the soil, help improve moisture and air permeability of the soil, prevent soil mineralization, and increase productivity.

As you can see, there are no nitrogen fertilizers among the list of fertilizing compounds. The fact is that after mid-summer, nitrogen compounds are not introduced into the soil. This is due to the fact that this chemical element activates the growth of green mass and stimulates the growth processes of trees and bushes. And, starting from August, plants that have finished and are finishing fruiting are preparing for a period of rest, and such activation of vital forces is simply contraindicated for them.

Mineral autumn fertilizing

Let's look in detail at how to apply each fertilizer correctly and in what quantities.

Phosphorus fertilizers

To enrich the soil with phosphorus, use superphosphate or double superphosphate. The difference between these compositions is only in the concentration of the main active element. Granular or powdered mineral fertilizer has proven itself in practice, both in small summer cottages, and in large gardens.

All gardeners should know that phosphorus is a sedentary substance and sparingly soluble in water. Therefore, surface fertilizer (spreading the composition on the surface of the earth in the hope that water will deliver it to the deep layers) is ineffective, or, more simply, completely useless. Superphosphate must be embedded deep into the soil in places where suction root shoots occur.

Plowing phosphorus fertilizers into the root layer of soil is recommended to a depth of 10 to 15 cm for trees and 7 to 10 cm for berry fields.

In addition, fertilizer is not applied at the very trunks of trees or at the base of shrubs, since the suction roots are located along the periphery of the trunk circle.

It is best to add superphosphate into holes dug along the projection of the tree crown around the trunk. The depth of the holes is up to 30 cm (shovel bayonet). One handful of fertilizer is poured into each hole, filled with water and buried.

Regular superphosphate (monophosphate) is sealed at the rate of 45-50 g/sq. meter, granulated superphosphate - 35-40 g/sq. meter, double superphosphate - 25-30 g/sq. meter.

The exact fertilizer rates for each crop, depending on the type and age, are given in the instructions on the package.

Potash fertilizers

Potassium sulfate is considered better than potassium fertilizer, since it does not contain harmful chlorine. The rate of sealing for digging is from 5 to 10 g/sq.m. meter. The simultaneous application of phosphorus and potassium compounds is preferable to the mono application of each fertilizer, since in this case phosphorus is better assimilated in the soil complex.

A cheaper option is to use potassium chloride. To prevent chlorine from damaging the roots, this fertilizer is applied as early as possible, so that before winter harmful substance washed away by irrigation water and autumn precipitation into the deep layers of the soil.

Potassium magnesia is another fertilizing composition containing, in addition to potassium, so much needed by trees and bushes magnesium. It is advisable to use this fertilizer in the form of an aqueous solution, watering the tree trunks and the ground under the bushes. Please note that plants' need for magnesium increases in light sandy soils.

Combined fertilizers

Complex potassium-phosphorus fertilizers, which are used according to the instructions, have proven themselves well. There are many autumn fertilizers on sale, both mineral and organomineral, that do not contain nitrogen compounds. The attached instructions allow you to calculate application rates for each crop with an accuracy of a few grams.

There are specialized fertilizers for fruit trees, for berry crops, for the entire garden, marked “autumn”. For example, “Fruitful”, “ Orchard", "Autumn for the garden", "Universal", etc., which allow your plants to overwinter and gain strength for the next season, and also double their survival rate.

Such fertilizers are applied to the tree trunk circles of young seedlings, and in a mature garden they are applied not only to them, but also to the inter-rows of trees and bushes or to the crown projection.

Vegetable ash for autumn feeding

Autumn feeding of fruit trees and shrubs in the fall can be carried out with plant ash. The ash contains practically no nitrogen compounds, as well as chlorine, which is dangerous for some crops.

Ash is considered a natural source of phosphorus and potassium, the concentrations of which vary depending on the original material burned. In addition, it contains magnesium, iron, calcium, fluorine, boron, iodine and all other components necessary for plant life.

Many gardeners successfully replace potassium-phosphorus mineral fertilizers with ash.

The only disadvantage of using ash is the need for large quantities. But zealous owners who burn plant residues from the beginning of spring to the end of summer (cut trunks, branches after pruning, vegetable tops, leaf litter, straw, etc.) and store it in paper bags in the barn are always provided with the right amount of ash volume.

Norms for applying ash in the garden: ½-1 bucket for each mature plant. Throughout the summer, it is recommended to scatter the ash in circles around the tree trunks, and in the fall to plow it into the soil when digging up the berry patch and garden.

Organic fall fertilizers

Fresh farm animal manure under fruit trees and shrubs are not used, since this product contains high doses of ammonia, which can significantly damage (burn) the roots.

The best organic matter for a garden is considered to be:

Aged compost (so-called “black gold”).
Peat or peat-manure compost.
Humus (composted or completely rotted mullein).
Dry cow and bird excrement.
Vermicompost. Vermicompost granules are added according to the instructions on the package.

For each plant, apply from 1 to 5 buckets of organic fertilizers, depending on age. Incorporation is carried out during digging, trying to thoroughly enrich the soil with a nutrient substrate through deep plowing.

Complex autumn fertilizing of garden crops

According to experienced gardeners, the best feeding For the garden, a combination of organic and mineral fertilizers is considered. It is complex feeding that ensures the assimilation of all nutritional components in the soil and their transformation into forms that are easily accessible to absorbent roots.

Apple and pear trees. For trees up to 8 years old, take 10 kg of humus or compost, from 8 to 10 years old - 30 kg, and over 10 years old - 50 kg. The nutrient substrate is enriched with 0.3 kg of superphosphate and 0.2 kg of potassium sulfate. The fertilizer is plowed deep into the tree trunk circles and in the projection of the crown using the digging method.
Berry bushes (raspberries, gooseberries, currants). For each bush, take 15 kg of humus or compost, add 60 g of superphosphate and 40 g of potassium salt. The nutrient mixture is placed in ditches (about 20 cm deep) dug at a distance of about 0.3 m from the plant in a circle or in row-spacings.
Plum and cherry. Spread dry bird droppings or cow excrement in an even layer and embed them in tree trunks or in the ground under bushes using a shovel. After a few days, water with a nutrient solution. For an adult tree, take 40 liters of water and dissolve 10 tbsp in it. spoons of superphosphate and 8 tbsp. spoons of potassium sulfate. The resulting liquid is poured around the tree trunk in early autumn. Fertilizer consumption for young trees from 3 to 5 years old is 2 buckets of the composition.

When to fertilize the garden in the fall?

In order for all plants to prepare for winter and retire “well-fed”, fertilization should be planned as early as possible.

After fertilizing, it is recommended to insulate all tree trunk circles with compost. “Black gold”, laid out in a layer of 5-6 cm, will not only protect the roots from freezing, but will also enrich the soil with the necessary nutrients as it decomposes. There is no need to remove the mulch layer; it is enough to dig it up along with the soil in early spring (after the snow has melted and the soil has warmed up).

Intensive development of the root system of trees and perennial shrubs occurs at the end of September. A sufficient amount of moisture and a full range of nutrients is provided to the plants. vital forces and allows them to properly prepare for the winter.

Autumn is the most favorable time for fertilizer perennial plants. It is difficult to overestimate the importance of this event. Enriching the soil with nutritional compounds is not only a guarantee of a future harvest, but also a serious help in increasing the resistance of all crops to diseases and pest invasions. Wishing you excellent garden harvests every season!

It's important to realize that fertilizing fruit trees and shrubs in the spring - an important event on the way to obtaining a bountiful harvest. At the beginning of the growing season, any crop in or in the garden requires a supply of nutrients, without which full development and good fruiting are impossible.

What do shrubs and trees need in spring?

Most in spring period Fruit trees and bushes need nitrogen. It plays a key role in their growth, in the development of a powerful root system, the formation of new leaves, flowers and fruits. Nitrogen-containing fertilizing can increase yields and also significantly improve the quality of fruits.

In addition to nitrogen in the spring, garden plants need chemical elements such as potassium, magnesium, phosphorus, iron, sulfur, boron, cobalt, copper, and manganese. There are two ways to feed shrubs and fruit trees:

Spring complex mineral fertilizers- are a product of the chemical industry and are developed taking into account the needs of specific types of crops in a certain period.
Organic fertilizers– are the result natural processes nature (bird droppings or cow manure, compost).

Organic fertilizers are part of nature

First spring fertilizing of garden crops

Experts advise feeding fruit trees and shrubs for the first time at the very beginning of spring. You shouldn't wait for all the snow to melt, but the ground should thaw a little. To feed during this period, use nitrogen-containing mineral fertilizers (ammonium nitrate, urea). Scatter them around each trunk on the snow, which, when melting, will deliver nitrogen and other important chemical elements to the root system of fruit trees and shrubs.

When carrying out such fertilizing, it is important not to overdo it, as excess nitrogen will harm the crop. Having received an extra portion of this element, the tree will begin to develop its crown and root system so actively that it will have very little energy left for fruit set and good development. How to calculate the amount of feeding? Very simple - for one young tree use approximately 40 g, for an adult - about 100 g.

Do not overdo it with nitrogen-containing fertilizer

If you are a fan of organic fertilizers, wait until the ground thaws completely. Prepare a nutrient solution by adding 300 g of urea, 1.5 liters of litter or 4 liters of manure to a bucket of water. As a guide: use 3-4 liters of fertilizer per tree.

Second feeding of fruit trees and shrubs

During the period of flowering and leaf formation, bushes and fruit trees especially need potassium and phosphorus. Potassium is necessary for the formation of new shoots, increasing sugar levels in fruits, as well as for the resistance of crops to diseases and adverse conditions. external factors. Phosphorus helps strengthen the root system of bushes and trees.

Experienced gardeners say that it is better not to purchase mineral fertilizers containing both substances at once, but rather to add them to the soil separately. First, phosphorus, called “superphosphate,” - 60 g per adult tree. A little later, potassium (potassium salt, potassium magnesium, potassium sulfate, ash) - 20 g per tree.

Third and fourth spring fertilization of garden plants

It is very important to feed berry bushes and fruit trees in the spring after flowering for the full development of fruits. Organic is best during this period. Of the organic fertilizers, compost is especially popular among gardeners. They water the root zone of flowering plants. garden plants, having previously diluted with water.

During the development of fruits, it is advisable to once again feed garden crops with organic matter (mullein, compost, vermicompost). If this is not possible, then purchase a special mineral mixture with a slight predominance of nitrogen. Fertilizer is either embedded in the ground or mixed with mulch.

During flowering and ovary formation, fruit trees and shrubs need potassium and phosphorus

Useful tips regarding feeding berry bushes and fruit trees

There are some features in feeding garden plants in the spring that every gardener must know:
Carrier chemical substances Water leaks out from the fertilizer to the roots of a tree or bush, so after applying dry fertilizer, thorough watering is necessary.
Liquid fertilizer It should not be added to dry soil to prevent burns on the roots.
Garden crops do not need to be fertilized during the first year after planting.
It is better to fertilize in the evening.

Every experienced gardener realizes how important it is to feed fruit trees and shrubs in the spring. Without it, the chances of getting a bountiful harvest are negligible. If you give the plant everything it needs, it will certainly thank you with an abundance of delicious fruits.