The importance of finishing the window after the installation of plastic windows is not always realized by customers. Because of this, subsequently, a lot of people complain that they installed advertised double-glazed windows, and it bleeds through the window. In fact, the problem lies in the fact that without finishing all the work cannot be considered fully completed.
The quality of the installation of a plastic window depends on the quality of the finish of the slopes.
Finishing a plastic window with your own hands will allow you to create not only a beautiful appearance windows, but also significantly extend its life.
After plastic windows installed indoors, the next stage of work begins - the creation of slopes. Properly done finishing of a plastic window with your own hands allows you to create an attractive finished look to the opening.
Properly done finishing of a plastic window with your own hands allows you to create an attractive finished look to the opening.
Slopes are considered to be all surfaces of the walls that are near the windows. Slopes are external (located on the outside of the window) and internal (located on the inside of the window). Most often, everyone is interested in the internal slopes. If it is better to entrust the installation to professionals, then it is more expedient to do the finishing with your own hands.
Correctly made slopes play not only an aesthetic role, they also have thermal insulation qualities. Slopes allow you to protect the mounting seams, prevent windows from fogging, prevent the destruction of the mounting foam. Used to create slopes different kinds materials.
Internal finishing with plaster
Slopes with plaster have more disadvantages than advantages. Over time, the plaster begins to burst and crack, losing its original color. The installation itself is also not very convenient, it takes a lot of time and effort for high-quality performance. The plaster is applied in several layers, each layer must be dried and cured. After that, the surface is primed and finally painted. It usually takes one to two weeks. Plaster slopes do not create necessary thermal insulation, and when hypothermia, the windows will fog up.
Plain drywall
The only drawback in the application is the fear of drywall moisture. Therefore, it is worth installing GKL only in rooms with low level humidity.
Slopes made of drywall are quite durable. They have a smooth and attractive appearance. Drywall is insulated, and this gives decent thermal insulation properties to the slopes. The only drawback in the application is the fear of drywall moisture. Therefore, it is worth installing GKL only in rooms with a low level of humidity.
The process of installing drywall slopes is laborious: puttying, priming and painting are required. You can make them faster than plaster slopes. Although the installation time also depends on the qualifications of the master.
Drywall finishing is an intermediate option in terms of price and quality. To create a neat joint around the perimeter of the window, a special plastic or metal corner is used. Such slopes can be covered with a layer of paint, liquid plastic, decorative plaster or transparent furniture film under the tree. Using the latter option, a completely smooth surface is obtained, which is easy to clean and well suited for use in the kitchen.
Plasterboard window trim is often chosen when there is a need to hide slopes with very damaged openings. In this case, treatment with a primer or antibacterial impregnation is used.
Avoid leaving an air space between the plasterboard sheathing and the wall where water can enter. Otherwise on top coat stains may appear and slope deformation will occur.
Installation of plastic
Plastic slopes can be quickly mounted, they do not fade, they are easy to clean and have an attractive look that blends harmoniously with the windows themselves (it is advisable to choose the same shade).
This is the most common and universal way. Plastic slopes can be quickly mounted, they do not fade, they are easy to clean and have an attractive look that blends harmoniously with the windows themselves (it is advisable to choose the same shade). When installing such slopes, it is used mineral wool, which provides the necessary thermal insulation, sound insulation and water resistance. They are fairly easy to make with your own hands. Slopes made of plastic have a fairly decorative appearance, smooth and smooth surface, long term operation (equal to service time). They can be done quite quickly (within about two hours). Install plastic slopes without additional work for plastering and painting. They have a good degree of vapor impermeability, which protects walls and foam insulation from freezing.
Tools and materials
Before starting work, stock up on the necessary set of tools.
- Plastic strips 8 mm thick.
- U-shaped strip of plastic (the so-called starting strip).
- F-shaped strip of plastic.
- Wooden lath about 12 mm thick.
- Insulation material (usually mineral wool is used).
- Scissors and a knife for metal.
- Construction stapler with staples.
- Building level.
- White silicone.
- Self-tapping screws (4.5 mm and 95 mm).
- Drill or perforator.
If the window was recently installed, then it is better not to remove the protective film until the end of the work.
Installation steps
Wooden slats are stuffed around the entire perimeter around the window. To fix them, use 95 mm screws. Reiki are placed flush to the walls.
- Wooden slats are stuffed around the entire perimeter around the window. To fix them, use 95 mm screws. Reiki are placed flush to the walls. To prepare the surface of the wall, a puncher and a drill are used as needed. To obtain perfectly even slopes, the rails are vertically attached to the wall, aligned with the level.
- On the outer edge of the window, it is necessary to fill a U-shaped strip. 4.5 mm self-tapping screws are used for fixing. A slope strip is inserted into the groove of this strip. The joints of the U-shaped strips should make it possible to install the plastic at given angles. Therefore, when crossing U-shaped strips, it is necessary to partially cut off the corners with a knife, thereby ensuring an even and smooth joint from the inside.
- An F-shaped strip is being installed. Its groove should be located opposite the previously installed groove of the U-shaped strip. In the rest, which is located above the opening, the F-groove must be cut off. This is necessary because the upper part of the F-strips should be overlapped. Attach this strip to wooden lath need with the help construction stapler. After joining, all excess parts of the F-strips should be cut off with metal scissors. This method is convenient because it does not require further wallpapering around the window. F-strip covers all defects.
- The plastic is installed in the grooves with the simultaneous laying of the insulation. Here it is important to measure the size of the plastic as accurately as possible. If the joints could not be made perfectly smooth, then you can wipe them with white silicone.
Exterior finish much more important than the inside, since the mounting foam, remaining without protection from ultraviolet destroying it sun rays, deteriorates very quickly and becomes unusable.
It is desirable that the installation of all slopes be carried out the next day after installing the window, when the mounting foam is already dry enough. As thermal insulation material foam can be used. For getting optimal performance installation of slopes and window sills is best done at the same time.
Many, trying to save money, order installation without exterior and interior window trim. Some believe that inner beauty is more important than outer beauty and do not finish the window from the side of the street, leaving mounting seams without protection from the outside. In fact, the exterior finish is much more important than the interior, since the mounting foam, left without protection from ultraviolet sunlight that destroys it, deteriorates very quickly and becomes unusable. If there is a desire to save money, then it is better to wait with interior decoration. External processing must be carried out as soon as possible after installation.
External plaster
Due to the low cost, this method is the most common. Most often, cement mortar is used in this case. A solution that is prepared from glue for ceramic tiles. However, there is no guarantee that the entire finish will not crack over time.
Special tape PSUL
Some professionals often use special tape, with the help of the installation of which the space of the seam expands and fills the free space, thereby protecting the mounting foam from moisture and ultraviolet rays. However, when doing the exterior decoration of windows with your own hands, it is not always possible to be able to buy such material.
flashings
The flasher is plastic corner, which is made specifically for finishing windows from the outside and protects the mounting foam from all external influences.
The flashing is a plastic corner, which is made specifically for finishing outside and protects the mounting foam from all external influences.
Finishing begins with the installation of a corner on the upper seam of the window. To do this, cut a piece of the flashing, which has the same length as the distance between the quarters of the window opening. It is fixed to the window profile with ordinary self-tapping screws.
There is no need to install self-tapping screws very often. If necessary, slots must be made in the corner (if, for example, mounting is hindered by holders mosquito nets). After that, you need to mount the ebb to the wall using dowel-nails. At the same time, it is advisable to apply mounting foam separately in several places. This will more tightly fix the ebb and soften the sound when raindrops hit it.
The most difficult thing in this method of finishing is cutting out the side flashings. They should fit with the maximum accuracy with the upper flashing and window sill. Sometimes it is better to cut off with a margin, and then make the fit to the desired size. The joints with the upper flashing after installation must be treated with liquid plastic or silicone.
Properly finished plastic windows will serve you and will delight you for many years!
Tsugunov Anton Valerievich
Reading time: 7 minutes
The final stage of the process of installing modern double-glazed windows is the finishing of the slopes. They are needed not only for the design of the window opening. Thick double-glazed windows and reliable fittings provide excellent thermal insulation, but pairing window frame and the walls of the apartment remain the weak point of the structure. This problem area needs to be covered. Let's find out which slopes are best suited for plastic windows.
What requirements must slopes meet?
Before considering window framing options, their advantages and disadvantages, let's decide what is required of these elements.
Slopes should:
- Not inferior in terms of window design durability. Modern double-glazed windows are designed for at least 15-20 years of operation. Slopes are required to withstand no less time without loss of basic qualities. Few people like to redo them every two or three years.
- Correspond general style windows, to form a single whole with it.
- Maintain or even improve the performance of plastic windows.
Varieties
When repairing an apartment in a new building or when replacing windows, you will have to choose how to finish the openings after installation modern designs with glass panes.
You can trim window slopes using the following materials:
- plasters;
- drywall;
- gypsum fiber;
- plastic panels.
Plaster slopes
The manufacturing technology consists in the sequential application of several layers of plaster and putty mortar. Layer finishing putty is colored.
Finishing a window opening with plaster has the following advantages:
- Versatility. This material is used in rooms with different indicators of humidity and temperature.
- Democratic price. Plaster - inexpensive material Plus, you can save money by doing the work yourself.
- Strength. Plaster slopes are more resistant to mechanical stress compared to other types of finishes.
- No seams. Perhaps the main argument of the supporters of such a coating: it is not necessary to additionally process the joints and interfaces of the opening planes.
- Possibility of renewal and repair.
But a number of serious shortcomings have led to the fact that plaster is less and less used in this kind of work:
- The duration and complexity of the process. Finishing takes considerable time: each layer of the plaster mixture needs to dry.
- A large amount of dust and dirt, the risk of scratching the window.
- Low thermal insulation properties of plaster. Such slopes are prone to freezing in winter, the appearance of condensation. In addition, during their installation, it is necessary to cut the foam one or two centimeters inward, weakening the heat-insulating seam.
- Detachment from the frame. It is impossible to firmly connect the plaster and pvc frame. There are no sealants with equally good adhesion to both materials. This leads to the formation of cracks between window block and plaster layer.
The last two drawbacks can be eliminated by insulating the opening with foam plastic before plastering and using the adjacent window profile with reinforcing mesh.
Drywall slopes
For their manufacture, pieces of GKL are used. right size, which are screwed to the profile frame or glued to the sides of the opening. Then the surface of the drywall is primed, puttied and painted. The space between the wall and the new slopes is insulated mounting foam.
It is easier and faster to fix the GKL than to display a flat plane with plaster. But do not forget that after installation, a fine finish is required, which will take several days.
Advantages of using drywall:
- Low cost.
- Ease of installation. Requires the most basic skills in construction.
- The ability to easily create perfectly flat surfaces.
- Additional insulation.
- Easy repair, suitable for repeated repainting.
Flaws:
- The impossibility of firmly bonding the slope material and the PVC frame (as with the plaster version). This leads to the appearance of cracks at the mates.
- Fear of moisture. If the windows “cry”, under the influence of condensate drywall, even moisture resistant, gradually collapses, swells near the frame. Based on the reviews, this main reason refusal to use GKL in the manufacture of slopes.
- Risk of bending and bursting. Still, drywall is a rather fragile material.
To avoid the stage fine finish, you can take laminated GKL instead of the usual one. But in this case, you will have to use special corners to close the ends of the sheets.
Gypsum fiber slopes (GVL)
The technology for mounting slopes from gypsum-fiber boards is practically the same as mounting drywall, the advantages will be the same. At the same time, GVL is devoid of the disadvantages of GKL: it is much stronger and tougher, and its moisture-resistant variety is not at all afraid of a wet environment.
Mr. Build thinks that when correct installation GVL slopes are superior to other options in terms of performance and appearance.
Advantages of gypsum fiber slopes:
- Fairly simple installation.
- High strength and rigidity.
- The possibility of high-quality insulation.
- Ideal construction geometry.
- Long service life - at least 10 years.
- Maintainability: a damaged element can be easily puttied and tinted.
- Moisture resistance.
Flaws:
- Relatively high price (compared to GKL and plastic).
- The need for finishing.
- Cutting gypsum fiber is somewhat more difficult than drywall.
If, after priming and puttying, paint slopes from high-quality GVL latex paint, then they can be washed without fear. And re-painting will be required no earlier than in 5-8 years.
Plastic slopes
Another way to get aesthetic and reliable slopes is to sheathe the opening with double-sided sandwich panels. They not only have good thermal insulation properties, but also sufficiently rigid.
It is not recommended to use one-sided sandwich panels and decorative Wall panels made of thin cellular plastic. They do not have the necessary strength, wear resistance and thermal insulation qualities.
It is plastic finishing that is gaining more and more popularity. The material of the slopes not only visually harmonizes with window frame made of PVC, but also securely fastened to it by means of special sealants. This method of finishing the opening has other advantages:
- Low price.
- A smooth surface that retains its properties for many years and does not require additional finishing and regular maintenance.
- No gaps and temperature differences due to the use of the same material from which the frame is made.
- Additional thermal insulation that reinforces the weak point of the window opening - the seam between the frame and the wall of the room.
- Installation speed. Plastic slopes are mounted faster than drywall and even more plaster.
- The minimum amount of dirt and dust when facing with plastic.
- 100% moisture resistance.
- It is possible to replace part of the slope in case of damage.
- The frame covering the outer contour reliably protects the junction of the wallpaper and the window opening.
- Susceptibility to mechanical damage.
- Impossibility of local repair. In case of breakage, you will have to change the whole panel.
- Poor quality of additional elements, such as corners. Often these small parts are made of recycled plastic, which turns yellow over time and stands out ugly against the background of snow-white slopes.
Windows are called the eyes of the house. Their appearance reflects the tastes of the owner. Finishing windows, their framing give the facade completeness, emphasize architectural style building, its severity and elegance. Realtors claim that framing the openings from the outside increases the value of the house by 15 - 25%. A bunch of decorative elements from various materials allow you to create an individual image of the building, imitating any era and direction in architecture.
Window siding
Finishing and framing around the window - an element of architectural decor
Vadik came to me for advice. His elderly relative asked him to prepare and sell the house. It was necessary to maximize the price of the building at minimal cost to give it a commercial appearance. The site was located near the city, and we went to look.
I immediately noticed the framing of the windows. It was an old, faded and cracked cladding. It provided sealing of the opening, but lost its aesthetic appearance. There was no cashing on the facade. Do beautiful facade possible only in harmony of all elements. It was necessary to start with finishing the doorway and windows in uniform style.
We had to replace wooden architraves. We decided to install plastic sandwich panels and frame each opening in the same style throughout the facade. Inside there was also a wooden cashing. She was replaced by slopes made of polyurethane.
Plastic frame parts are the most practical
While we were drawing sketches of the future facade, I told my friend what decorative elements are for facing the opening, and how to cash out inside and out.
Finishing of plastic windows is carried out from various materials:
- tree;
- stone;
- porcelain stoneware;
- crumb rubber;
- facing tiles;
- plaster molding;
- plastic parts;
- foam elements.
Wood is the most beautiful in its originality and warmth. But it requires permanent care and quickly collapses from dampness.
Stone and porcelain tiles are difficult to install and must be periodically varnished. Their main disadvantage is the large weight and load on the foundation.
Styrofoam and gypsum look great, but they are hygroscopic, they need to make a multi-layer protective coating.
Parts made of polyurethane suited us. Plastic products look good inside and out. They have several advantages over other products made from other materials:
- the same color throughout the depth;
- abrasion resistance;
- do not fade in the sun;
- serve more than 20 years outside the building without losing their appearance;
- moisture resistant;
- fireproof;
- easy to mount around the opening.
A large selection of polyurethane parts and extensions allow a novice specialist to independently make trim and window frames.
Polyurethane window cladding elements
When making window frames with polyurethane parts, we first installed plastic architraves. The windows were small for the size of the house. Therefore, white cladding should visually enlarge them.
outside used a large number of decorative elements made of polyurethane for facing door and window openings:
- sandrik - decorative cornice;
- console;
- rack;
- moldiga;
- pilaster;
- window sills;
- platbands;
- false shutters;
- keystone;
- bracket;
- rust imitation.
It is possible to use other details, such as stucco molding, rosette. But they are used less often, mainly in classic styles baroque and renaissance. Before us was modern house with a massive stone-lined foundation. To visually equalize the proportions, it was necessary to lay overlays in the form of rusticated stones at the corners. Framing windows with wide side elements will increase them.
The color range of plastic products is large. The most in demand are white, wood grain and various gray tones. Colors are chosen according to the chosen style. It is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the building and openings. Light wide cladding enlarges the windows. If you need to reduce or make less noticeable, you should choose a dark-colored plastic that matches the tone of the walls. Then it is enough to put platbands and a window sill.
If you mount only a narrow molding around the perimeter of the opening, the facade will look strictly, in retro style. Bracket and sandrik without console will stretch the window vertically and make it narrower.
The capstone reminds us of the times of the knights, when they could not make even ceilings and built arched vaults. In combination with overlays under the rustic stone, the illusion of a massive building is created. But such a cladding does not look on wooden houses.
Log cabins are suitable carved architraves and false shutters. It is desirable to choose a color imitating pine and birch, you can just white.
Finishing the doorway and windows in the same style
To give a stylish look, we decided to install window sills made of acrylic stone under white marble on the ground floor. They are durable, repel water and are not afraid of frost and UV rays. They look more solid and elegant than standard plastic ebbs. Place brackets and moldings under them. From above, a wide sandrik with a triangular protrusion in the center.
To increase the width of the doorway, we mounted pilasters on the sides, creating the illusion of semi-columns. Similar wide consoles adorned the windows. The moldings along the perimeter of the frame emphasized the geometry of the lines, their severity.
On the second floor, they installed a plastic window sill, architraves, and along the side wall, the opening was finished with false shutters with an arched sill. By front side of the facade imitated the lining of the walls around the opening with rustication. At the top, keystones and molding flaunted.
A familiar realtor after we completed the window framing and the transformation of the facade, said that the value of the house had risen by 30%. A properly created image of the facade is of great importance. After all, it is appearance at home makes the main impression.
In addition, we have significantly improved the thermal insulation of windows. Exterior decoration not only decorated, but also reliably protected the walls from getting wet. It became quieter inside, the noise from outside almost did not penetrate. The light frame enhances the natural lighting of the rooms.
Facing openings inside and outside the house
Inside the house, we dismantled the old window sills and platbands. Installed plastic panels at the bottom. Replaced the insulation on the sides and top. Then they checked the vertical and mounted a new profile around the perimeter for support. Placed the top slope. We adjusted the side panels and put them in place by sliding them behind the starting profile around the frame and gluing them to the corner along inside opening.
When the buyer came to look at the house, Vadik and I were convinced of the correctness of our actions. He was not interested in interior decoration, since each person redoes it after buying it in his own way. He checked the condition of the pipes purely mechanically so that they would not leak. Here is a good condition beautiful finish doors and windows was noticed first.
After installing plastic windows, the window opening does not look the best: foam sticks out, pieces of plaster stick out, wall material is visible in places. Closes all this "beauty" different ways, the most practical, fast and inexpensive of which are plastic slopes. It is better to make them from sandwich panels (two layers of plastic, between which is foamed polypropylene). They are dense, durable, made of good material.
There are two main methods for installing plastic slopes: with and without a starting profile. Both are given from step by step instructions and photo. Decide for yourself how to fix slopes on plastic windows. Both methods give good results.
Photo report 1: installation of slopes from sandwich panels without starting profiles
This method is suitable when the window is installed so that the distance from the window frame to the opening wall is too small. In this case, installation with a start profile (see below) is either very difficult or - usually on the hinge side - not possible at all.
After installing the plastic window, such a picture was observed.
The device of slopes of plastic windows begins with the preparation of the opening: we cut off the remaining foam with a clerical knife. It is cut off easily, just don’t overdo it, cut it flush, and don’t cut it out - the foam both holds and insulates the frame. Pieces of plaster that interfere and protrude are also removed. If they hold well and do not protrude beyond the plane of the future slope, you can leave them - less foam will slip.
Then, along the perimeter of the window, we nail (put on dowels if the wall is concrete) a thin rail - 10 * 40 mm - with the wide side to the slope.
Usually it is not leveled, it is nailed as is, but if you want, you can set it straight by placing pieces of plywood, thin planks, etc. in the right places.
Now you need to properly cut the plastic panels. Can be done as standard: using measurements, you can make a stencil. With a stencil, it seems to be easier. Take a sheet of paper, larger than your window (I had old wallpaper). Apply to the slope, squeeze, bending the excess. Cut along the curved lines, try on, adjust as necessary.
It is more convenient to start with the upper part of the opening. Having made a paper stencil, we outline it on plastic. Considering that about 1 cm will go into the groove of the foam, we add this centimeter along the edge that will be inserted there. We cut it out with a small margin - it’s easier to cut off than to cover up later.
We cut with a hacksaw with a metal blade, try on, adjust so that the plastic stands up evenly, without bending. Align so that the panel is flush with the plaster. The edge turns out to be almost even, where necessary, we work with a file.
Having removed the tried and fitted strip, along the outer edge, which will be nailed to the bar, we drill holes along the thickness of the studs, stepping back about 0.5 cm from the edge. So it will be easier to fasten and do not damage the plastic.
We put it back in place, take a balloon with polyurethane foam and fill the gap with foam with short “puffs”. We try to get as deep as possible, but we don’t pour a lot: if it swells up, it can warp the plastic.
There are several points when working with mounting foam. If the plastic is smooth, the foam does not adhere very well to it. To improve it, or treat the surface that faces the wall with sandpaper, or / and prime it with something to improve adhesion. The second nuance: for the normal polymerization of the foam, moisture is needed. Therefore, before installing the plastic, the slope is sprayed with water from a spray bottle. Naturally, there should be no dust on the wall - it is swept away with a brush or removed with a vacuum cleaner. If the plaster or mortar is loose, the opening is pre-treated with a penetrating primer, which will bind the concrete particles together.
After we lift the panel, pressing down the foam, we insert the studs into the holes and fasten the outer edge to the bar. The inner one rests against the window frame.
Using the same technology - we cut out a paper template, try it on, transfer it to plastic - cut out a plastic sidewall. Here you need to be especially precise so that the gap between the slope panel and the window sill (upper slope) is minimal. To do this, the edge will have to be processed sandpaper. To make the edge even it was easier, it is more convenient to process it with sandpaper attached to a flat bar, a file or a whetstone (half of a circle, as in the photo).
We adjust to the ideal (as far as possible) match at the top and bottom, put it in place, driving one edge into the groove near the window. When the result is satisfactory, we level the outer vertical edge on the same level with the wall plaster. You can do this with a clerical knife on the spot, or you can put a line on the panel (with a pencil, a thin marker, scratch it with something sharp) and then refine it with what is convenient.
Having removed, along the outer edge we also drill holes for cloves. We install the panel in place, take the foam, and fill the gap from bottom to top. Too much foam, and here it’s not good, since the plastic can bend. Therefore, we fill in short portions, trying to fill as deeply as possible.
On the vertical parts of the slopes, you can do it differently: on a panel ready for installation, far edge, which runs under the frame, apply foam before installation. The strip is made solid or applied with a small snake. Only you need to do this not from the very edge, but stepping back a little. Then the plastic part is inserted into the cut out groove, set as needed, the rest of the gap is filled with foam (do not forget to moisten the wall before installation). Having filled, press, level, fix with carnations into the bar.
So that during the polymerization process the foam does not move the edges of the slope, the joint is glued with masking tape at the top and bottom. No matter how hard you try to fit the plastic evenly, gaps, albeit small, remain. They can be covered with acrylic. It is sold in tubes such as mounting foam, placed in the same mounting gun.
Squeeze the strip into the slot, rub it, level it, remove the excess with a damp soft cloth or sponge. You need to do this operation in small areas and wipe it gently - clean. As long as the acrylic has not hardened, it cleans up well. Then, with great difficulty. It is more convenient to start sealing cracks from above - immediately - horizontal panel slope, then joints, then move down first on one side, then on the other. The last to cover up the joints with the window sill.
After drying - 12-24 hours, depending on the sealant (written on the tube), acrylic can be drawn into the seam - this is if the gaps are large. All these places go through the second time according to the same method. After the second layer dries, if there are roughness and irregularities, they can be leveled with fine-grained sandpaper, folding it in half. In general, it is better to carefully align while damp, otherwise you can scratch the plastic.
Everything, plastic slopes are installed. After the final polymerization of the foam, the bevels must be puttied, leveled with the surface of the walls. After that, you can remove the protective blue film. As a result, the window will look something like this.
When installing these plastic slopes, sandwich panels were used. These are two layers of plastic, between which there is a layer of foamed foam. Using the same technology, you can make window frames from inexpensive plastic window sills or white PVC wall panels. The most unreliable material is panels: even wall panels are quite easily pressed through, to besides, e If the front layer of plastic is thin (cheap), then jumpers are visible in the light. in sandwich panels and plastic window sills there is no such. And it takes a lot of effort to push through, and even there are no jumpers to the clearance.
Photo report 2: we mount plastic slopes with a starting profile
The installation of plastic slopes and according to this technology begins with the preparation of a window opening. We cut exactly the foam, remove everything that does not hold well, clean off the dust, if necessary, we pass along the opening with a primer that improves adhesion.
Along the perimeter of the opening, but already near the frame, fasten wooden block. Choose the thickness depending on the distance: it should almost go on the frame. One side of the bar must be worked out with a planer, making a slope. The slope angle of this face equal to the angle slope settings. You can saw off, but it’s even more difficult to make, except that there is a circular saw with adjustable angle.
We fasten the processed bar to the walls along the perimeter of the opening. The mounting method depends on the material of the wall. If the wall is brick, you can try on self-tapping screws, you need to put dowels in concrete.
You buy a starting profile in the store, install it with the long side to the bar, fasten it. It is more convenient and faster to fix it to the bar with staples from a construction stapler, if there is none, you can use small cloves or self-tapping screws with flat heads.
When choosing a starting profile, take a tight one. It is more expensive, but you only care about three meters per window, maybe a little more. A dense profile will hold plastic well, a soft one will bend and look ugly. Another point - when mounting the profile, press it as tightly as possible to the frame so that there are either no gaps at all, or they are minimal.
At the top, when joining the vertical and horizontal profiles, you need to be especially careful and cut them off exactly at an angle of 45 °. If there are small gaps, they can be repaired with acrylic.
According to this technology, it is more convenient to start the installation of reservoir slopes from the sidewalls. Insert the panel into the fixed start profile. They are also better to take from expensive and dense, with a thick layer of plastic. If you put cheap ones (ceiling ones), then the front wall is thin, and jumpers will be visible in bright light. In addition, such plastic can be pushed through even with a finger.
The width of the plastic panel should be greater than the slope. If one is not wide enough, two are joined. But then, at the junction, an additional vertical bar will be needed, to which the first strip will be fixed.
The panel inserted into the profile is usually longer than the opening. Holding it with your hand, mark the opening line. After removing, cut off along the marked line.
We install the panel again, move it a little away from the wall and fill it with mounting foam, trying to fill it without gaps, but without excess. To make it happen, we start from the far lower corner - we draw from the bottom up near the nailed bar. While we reached the top, the bottom of the foam expanded a little. Again we draw a line with foam, but closer to the edge. The closer to the outer edge, the less foam is required - after all, the panel is installed under a slope, so make the tracks thinner. Having reached the middle, make a snake on the rest of the surface and press the panel the way it should be. Align and check. Attach to the wall with masking tape. Also install the second part and then the top. It can also be cut out according to a paper template, and the edges can be adjusted to a perfect (or almost) match with sandpaper.
Having installed all parts of the slope and secured with masking tape, leave until complete polymerization. Then, in order not to putty the gaps between the slope and the wall, a white plastic corner is glued to the liquid nails. The main task is to cut exactly at the corners. It is glued simply: apply on both shelves of the corner thin strip glue, press, passing your hand along, hold for a couple of minutes. So they are installed around the entire perimeter, then, until the glue dries, they are also glued with masking tape and left.
After a day, we remove the adhesive tape, the plastic slopes are ready.
If there are gaps somewhere, they are sealed with acrylic, as described above. Don't use silicone. In the light, it quickly turns yellow. In a year or two, your windows will look terrible. Look for white acrylic sealant and mask it.
Video
See this video for the option of installing slopes with a starting profile screwed to the window frame.
Video option for installing slopes made of plastic without a starting profile.
And another way in this video. Here, pay attention to the finish of the panel joints. They were made using a special profile. Could be so.
The fashion for plastic windows is not decreasing. On the contrary, such designs are gradually gaining more and more popularity. However, such an installation is usually accompanied by the need to manufacture window slopes, without which the windows will be blown, and the room will not please you with its appearance. As usual, the owners are faced with the question of choosing materials for slopes. It must be said that the choice is quite limited, since a natural selection of the most suitable materials for these purposes has already taken place. In the article we will list what you will have to choose from, as well as talk about the positive aspects and disadvantages of these materials.
Plastering slopes indoors
This is the most common finishing method in the past. internal slopes. This is due to the fact that drywall had not been invented before, and no one had even heard of plastic. Now some owners decide on such a finish because of its cheapness. But is this really good?
Indeed, having bought a bag of ready-made mortar, for example, white plaster or cement mortar, you can independently, very quickly make more or less acceptable slopes. Then the surfaces are ground and covered with a white water-based emulsion. What is the catch then? Why does the fashion for such slopes tend to zero?
The secret is very simple. Any plaster surfaces, being on the border of cold and warm air are subject to rapid degradation. They are simultaneously affected by the heat of the house and the cold of the street. The result after a year is the appearance of small cracks on the surface of the plaster. Then they gradually increase, and the appearance of the slopes deteriorates irrevocably. The owners of the premises have to do an annual cosmetic repair of such slopes. Therefore, it is not recommended to use any types of plaster solutions for the manufacture of slopes.
Finishing window slopes with plasterboard
This modern material it is quite suitable for the manufacture of door or window slopes. Moreover, it is, like plaster, absolutely environmentally friendly. It is not difficult to make slopes from GKL if you study the relevant recommendations. But, if you want it to be really beautiful, invite a specialist. The surface of drywall is perfectly flat, so the slopes will be very even, unlike plaster. Drywall does not require any cosmetic repairs within 25-30 years. The paint may need to be refreshed as it gets dirty.
Drywall is installed on glue or on dowels, plastered, and later, after the surfaces have dried, painted with several layers of facade paint. The advantages of GKL are obvious. This is a small cost of the sheets themselves and glue, simplicity and high speed of installation. Suffice it to say that in 1 day you can easily make draft plasterboard slopes in 4-5 rooms and then plaster them. On the second day, the slopes are polished and painted. That's how quickly it all ends. Of the minuses, one can note a large amount of dust that occurs during cutting and fitting drywall sheets. The work is also wet, as is the plaster, so be prepared for a fair amount of dirt in the room.
Plastic slopes
Contrary to popular belief about the dangers of plastic, we dare to assure you that modern plastic panels intended for indoor use are completely harmless to humans. Do you use a lot of things made of acrylic, silicone, leatherette? Plastic emits absolutely no toxins or fumes around it, so it is also environmentally friendly. And the fact that it does not let air through does not bother you. Plastered and painted drywall does not let it through either.
A huge plus of plastic slopes is their practicality. Plastic does not get dirty, does not lose its color, care for it is extremely simple. The work on the installation of slopes is carried out in record time. Slopes in the entire apartment are usually made in 1 day. This is the cleanest way to make slopes of all listed.
The only "dirty" moment is stuffing inside the wooden bars on the walls from the side of the window or doorway. As a minus, you should pay attention to the relatively high cost of such slopes. Consider the cost of the plastic itself, profiles for plastic, wooden beam and hardware.
